Moving to NYC
 

My wife and I are moving to Manhattan to attend graduate school (CUNY). We will have to get an apartment before we arrive (getting there in mid August). I know NYC has gotten safer, but I am sure there are still dangerous areas that we should avoid inhabiting. Can anyone suggest an "off limits" zone? I.e., think twice about getting apartment north of x street.<BR><BR>

Not sure which CUNY you will be attending, that might influence where you want to live. I personally don't like being much above 125th st. There was an article a couple of weeks ago about how despite gentrification, drug gangs still pretty much run the area. <BR>Some areas between 96th & 125th on the Westside can be a little rough. I babysit for some people on 100th & Amsterdam and I don't feel comfortable walking there after dark. The area around Morningside Park is another bad spot, rather sketchy feeling even during the day. <BR>I think a good rule is to avoid areas right around large housing projects and elevated train tracks, as they just don't seem to be cleaning up like the rest of the city. I very rarely feel unsafe in Manhattan, but I still listen to my gut whenever I feel 'funny'.

Which CUNY? If you tell us that, maybe we can suggest neighborhoods to concentrate on. Jess's neighborhood assessment is pretty accurate. There are other small pockets of marginal neighborhoods in various other locations through Manhattan. ALso apartments very near high traffic areas (entrances to tunnels or bridges) could be noisy. Is there anyone at the school that can refer you to areas that other grad students live in?

We'll be attending the Grad Center. I will be assisting at Hunter and my wife will be teaching a lab at City College. We have a chance to get a studio on 129th and Lennox (60 W 129th). We found out about it through the grad school. Any thoughts about our plight in general or that location in particular?<BR><BR>Thanks

Jess: Did you know that there is a police station on West 100th Street right off of Amsterdam? Might help when you are in the neighborhood again.

I would not take an apartment on 129th and Lennox! If you don't mind, it would help to know what your size requirement and budget are, that way we can provide more realistic suggestions.

Looking to spend about $1,000. Little more (or less!) is do-able. Studio or 1 bedroom.

129 and lennox - don't take it<BR><BR>bottom line--- not a good neighborhood!

Thanks for the info. Odd that CUNY would suggest a bad neighborhood. In fact, this is what they had to say about the location:<BR><BR>Part of the recent wave of real-estate development in historic Harlem, the Smithsonian is in a prime shopping/dining/entertainment neighborhood that includes the offices of former President Bill Clinton, the Schomburg Center for Research in Black<BR>Culture, and the renowned restaurant Sylvia's. The Graduate Center is<BR>fifteen minutes away by express subway.<BR><BR>Good thing I checked here before signing up.<BR><BR>Thanks.<BR>

Troy, Here is an example of a listing that I pulled up from the real estate section of the New York Times (www.nytimes.com): Gramercy Park Area<BR>Village, Flat Iron <BR>Large Sunny Studio in walk up building.newly renovated with high ceilings and charming view. New Hardwood floors and exposed brick wall. Separate kitchen and Full bath. Great Closet Space. No Fees. Call owner 212-533-1823. No brokers. <BR><BR>The search I performed was: Search: All Manhattan, Price Range: I went up to $1,200, and in the Optional Key Word space, I typed: No Fee. My search yielded 57 hits. Give it a try!<BR>

By the way, the rent on that apartment is $1,200 which is a great deal in a very nice area. A side-bar indicated that the apartment is 600 sq. ft. which you shouldn't trust all that much.

topping for Troy

Considering where you will be working the Upper West Side above 72nd St and up to 120th Street. FRom Central PArk WEst to RIverdside drive to 100th ST and above 100th from Amsterdam Ave to Riversidfe DRive. THe 1 bedroom for $1000 is not likely but you could get a studio at that price and maybe slighytly less.

This is an ideal time to move to NYC as rents are dropping here for the first time in seemingly forever.<BR><BR>Given your budget, I would consider moving to the Morningside Heights area. This is approximately <BR>W. 96 St up to 120th St. Although as the other poster mentioned, Amsterdam feels a little less safe, but it really is not as rough as it appears. <BR><BR>The neighborhood is a mixture of Columbia University students and Latino residents. <BR><BR>The commute to Hunter will take approximately 40-60 min. in rush hour. <BR><BR>The most difficult part about NYC is finding an apartment. Make sure that once you find something that you truly like, act on it right away. <BR><BR>Good Luck.

Despite dropping rents, it is still impossible to get a safe one bedroom or even a studio in Manhattan for under 1800 dollars (maybe a sublet with connections). CUNY is the most pc place on earth and it is PC to recommend that area. You may have to look in Brooklyn or Riverdale or other parts of the Bronx. Sorry but thats the truth.

In response to reality.<BR><BR>I totally agree that you can not find a one bedroom in Manhattan for under 1800. However, in the boroughs, there are many safe places where you can live for less than 1800 for a 1bd. I don't know that you could do it for under 1000 though.

I would try Brooklyn. I live there and there are many nice areas. I'm paying 1150 for a 1 bedroom. You won't get much better so you might have to adjust your rate because there's not much for 1000 that you'll find in a habitable area. The rents aren't going down THAT much, despite what you hear.

Any lick, Troy?

Oops!! Sorry, that was "luck" not "lick"... It's been a looong week.

That's a tight budget. I think you may want to look into queens neighborhoods closest to Manhattan (Brooklyn will be a tougher commute). Some possibilities are Astoria, Long Island City (very up and coming), Jackson Heights. All of these are very diverse and interesting neighborhoods. There are many nice museums and some great restaurants in the area. Everything is much more reasonable than Manhattan. I also wouldn't recommend 129th. Anything below 110th should be OK.

Rents recently dropped on the upper east side (all the way east - 1st and york ave). I looked at a number of apartments under $1200 but they were all tiny studios and most of them were on the 4th or 5th floor of a walk-up. If you think the two of you could stand living in such a small space, you might try that neighborhood since it is close to Hunter. Otherwise you would be better off in the boroughs. I lived in Astoria Queens until a few months ago. It is very safe and quiet and the subway ride to midtown is quick.

Troy, our building has a couple of apts available and would be good for your needs, since we are within walking distance of City College (on a nice day) at night there are buses or service cars. Also we are right off the A line. <BR><BR>I think the apartment is 2 bedroom, big living room and bed rooms and the apartment next door is just about to undergo some rennovations. Let me know if are interested, I can get the landlords number for you. The rent is just about what you are looking to pay.<BR><BR>tweedy

You can get a nice, modern, decent-sized studio apartment with a partial river view in Battery Park City in downtown Manhattan for $1300. Definitely safe, and right on the water. But the commute would be a bit long.<BR><BR>

Thanks for the information, everyone. Your suggestions have been very helpful although we have not secured an apartment yet. We do have a few leads, however. Tweedy, I would appreciate more info - landlord information, building address - please e-mail it to my address. I'll keep you all posted as things develop.

Troy, there's an area on the (very) upper westside of Manhattan now known as Hudson Heights that may suit your needs...while it is true that Hudson Heights is a name conjured up by realtors to distance itself from (very) nearby Washington Heights, it is still a nice area...it's within walking distance to the Cloisters Museum in Fort Tryon Park...anyway, it's the area between West 181st Street and West 193rd Street from Broadway to the Hudson River...the George Washington Bridge is right there, too...you can take walks over the bridge into Fort Lee, New Jersey where there's a historical park with great views, and on the Manhattan side there's now a pathway for bikers, in-line skaters and joggers and walkers...a one bedroom apartment averages between $1,000.00 and $1,500.00...I have a single, female friend who has lived there for several years and she's never had a problem...she comes and goes at various times during the day and night and she feels safe...she also says the transportation options are great because you're right near the A train, Port Authority, the #9 train and others, and many bus lines...this particular area is quieter and nicer than the other side of Broadway when you reach St. Nicholas Avenue, which by the way, is a very lively hispanic neighborhood with so many shops and restaurants...La Dinastia on West 170th and Broadway serves huge portions of Dominican, Puerto Rican, Cuban and Chinese food at very reasonable prices...the area is also adjacent to Columbia Presbyterian Medical Center, so there are also many businesses in the area that cater to that community...contact Gus Perry at Stein Perry (realtors) at (212)928-3805...there are 2 apartment complexes there named Hudson View Gardens and Castle Village...maybe they have websites.

I live in (a one bedroom rental) Castle Village in the Hudson Heights section of Manhattan and I love it here. You are removed from the hustle and bustle of the city when you're home. Bennett Park is adjacent. Transportation options are numerous and shopping is convenient. I feel safe here and I've never had a problem. The other poster is right about the bridge and the views. I sometimes walk across the GWB to Fort Lee and grocery shop at an A&P Supercenter and Kings's markets. This area is also rich in US history. I think it's a great place to live because the city is literally at your feet.

I forgot to mention that the telephone number for Castle Village is (212)923-2121.

Alexandria and Merilee:<BR>I finally went up to Hudson Heights last weekend - what a pretty area! (Always wanted to ride my bike from Brooklyn to NJ and finally did it, stopping in HH for some gatorade) It's hilly with great views, and what a mix of people. It definitely wasn't like Brooklyn in that you couldn't label the neighborhood with a certain ethnicity. It also seemed totally safe. My boyfriend and I were thinking "Hmmm...we could live here". With those prices you quoted, we may be looking into it if we are unable to find a condo in our neighborhood. <BR><BR>Troy, definitely look into this area!!

I'm a nursing student at Columbia and I live in the housing aross the street from the hospital on West 168th Street. Although we have on site security, I do feel safe walking around the area. It's definitely a convenient area to other parts of the city. I'm hoping to rent in Hudson Heights after I graduate. You should definitely visit the area.

Here's another cheer for Hudson Heights! I've lived there for 6 years and I LOVE it. Great neighborhood and the rents are not as high as the upper west side. The aparments tend to be to be larger, as well. The area is lovely. I commute every day to Wall Street and my travel time is just about an hour each way.

Try looking in Washington Heights/Inwood area, the most northern part of Manhattan. I live 3 blocks below Dyckman (200th) and have a big 1 bedroom apartment for $800. Now I have been here 2 1/2 years and this place is now going for $1,000 but there is nothing left in Manhattan at this price, believe me. I live close to Ft. Tryon Park which is beautiful - also there are lovely places on Ft. Washington Avenue near the park. I guess it would be about a 15 minute ride on the 1 train from here to 137th. Good luck!

Thanks for the help, all. We managed to get a place through our University after all - that place on W. 129th. They assure me that they have researched the area extensively and that this particular block is ok. The wife and I are moving up to NYC and moving in without seeing the place first.

<BR>"They assure me that they have<BR> researched the area extensively<BR> and that this particular block is<BR> ok. The wife and I are moving<BR> up to NYC and moving in<BR> without seeing the place first. "<BR><BR>Troy, we all wish you good luck, but that is very naive of you--<BR>Of course they will say "this particular block is OK"!!<BR><BR>Besides, even if that is the case, what about the block(s) to and from the subway, shopping, etc.? We assume you will not be taking cabs or limos everytime you want to go to work or buy a quart of milk!

Troy--I wish you and Mrs T well--but agree with the poster who warns you about adjacent blocks. Maybe you are not used to living someplace where the only way from here to there is on foot, with nothing but your body--no car--to protect you.<BR><BR> There are many many places in the city where one should not walk after dark, and might be in danger in the daytime as well. I think you know that, as you posted out of that concern--please pay attention to the reservations of so many people here, and please at least check the place out before moving yourself and especially your wife in. <BR><BR> I have never (in about 40 years here) gotten the impression that any part of Lenox Avenue is ok for someone without strong roots there (like born there, knows everyone).

topping

You have chosen an area that even native New Yorkers usually avoid. I grew up in the Morningside Houses on West 125th Street and my father owned a business in the neighborhood. We have since moved and now live in the Riverdale section of the Bronx. During the day there's lots of people around in the neighborhood you're moving into and there's alot going on. At night (especially during the hot summer nights) it takes on a different vibe. I don't care what CUNY told you, it's not an easy neighborhood to make a transition into. The majority of the housing is in old brownstones and row houses. There are some good restaurants and they've renovated the old Lenox Lounge, but there are many seedy bars around, not mention lots of bored young people. You won't have a tremendous sense of freedom living there.

Where are you and your wife moving from? I was born and raised in New York City on Riverside Drive near Riverside Church and I wouldn't recommend the neighborhood you are moving into.

Reality, sorry but you're wrong. I pay 1200/mon for my studio in a doorman bldg near the UN (very nice area and bldg) and the studio across the hall from me that opened up a week ago is going for 1600/month. It even has a dishwasher!<BR><BR>I wouldnt live above 90th street, I also wouldnt live in Hell's Kitchen or Alphabet City. Stick to the teens to the 80s on the east side and you should be fine, or upper west side below 90th. <BR><BR>I lived in a hotel when I first moved to NY and searched for an apt. Pretty tough to do if you're not already there.

Correction: There is absolutely nothing wrong with Hell's Kitchen. It's safer than many other parts of the city. You should get out a little more.

also, "Correction", in case you haven't been "uptown" lately, you won't get your head chopped off "above 90th street" on the west side--very high priced and luxurious real estate all the way up to Columbia, (other than a few blocks like Manhattan avenue, Amsterdam and Columbus from about 100-110th and a few nearby sidestreets)<BR><BR>At any rate, the consensus here,Troy,<BR> is that you may be in over your head at the location that CUNY has led you to believe is perfectly fine.<BR><BR>Probably nothing will happen to you--NY is still basically a very safe city--but your comfort level may be very low. It is definitely an area that, in your own words, most people would say "think twice about getting an apartment" there.<BR><BR>See if you can still make another choice, and let us know what's happening