Molokai and Lanai - a trip report.
 

Oh if ever there was a time to visit these islands, this was it. Dirt cheap airfare and discounted rates at the Lodge at Koele with 4th night freee!

But they changed our flights, which would have meant about a 3 hour layover in Honolulu. But not for gyppie! We not only did carryon from the Boston area...we made it on Wiki Wiki to Island Air in time for me to make a flight 1/2 hour after landing from the mainland. Left mrlou behind as I headed to Molokai for car rental and provisioning up.

Now why oh why do I trek to Hana only to meet up with Tyra Banks doing a photo shoot at Red sands naked beach? Well landing on Molokai, the most hawaiin and friendly isle I landed to a film company - Pirattes of the Carribean !!!

Oh, this is going to be good.

-Bill

Well seeing as the movie company rented the two available convertables, I was happy with my economy car. There were actually tourists on island stuck without a car because of poor planning and the movie company taking all the rental cars.

Well driving into twilight we headed to our cottage at the secluded Pu'u o Hoku Ranch on the most eastern side. A very well marked road, that when the next day I saw how close I was driving to the ocean at the speed, although still slow, I was driving, well ---- it is a most amazing road that rivals all on Maui. Arriving to our cottage, we pulled into the gravel driveway only to disturb a herd of about 15 axis deer.......oh glory we are home!!!!

A simply fantastic secluded cottage! Just wonderful, and what a wakeup with sunrise views of Maui in the distance and the visiting Nene - hawaiin geese and so many other game birds - making me hungry. Well we chose this day to explore the isle, so heading out we made a pitstop to meet Keala our caretaker and a few ranchhands. After talking story for a few minutes we hit the trail for a good half mile before realizing we had a flat tire. You know how those machine lugnuts are cemented onto the tire....so I headed back to the ranch office. Keala and her darling son Keoki drove down with a real jack only to find that mrlou's irish got the lugnuts off and the tire was changed. They were both so gracious and happy even though we had interupted their morning.

We then talked a little more story about the island. I asked for a proper prununciation and story about all the signs I read about La'ua Point. Seems Molokai Ranch wants to build some million dollar homes on some very nice land. As an incentive to the island, they are offering dead end jobs and a bunch of unusable land, while taking beachfront glorious land and sucking the well dry of the island water. Some are for it, most are against it, yet it looks like regardless how the people of the island feel and have concern about water, this will go forward. Sad times indeed gyppei, sad indeed.

Well we had a wonderful day exploring this island. Stopped at the airport to have the tire fixed and then off to the West end. Molokai Ranch is on our hit list as we went down 2 roads trying to reach thier beach only to find that you need to be a guest with a passkey.....not loving these landowners!

Loved the island, but actually never swam in its waters. Alot of the island has brownwashed waters at the breakline. The west end had some fantastic beaches, but the surf was up a bit, so we happily took in it's beauty but did not partake. Brought a pizza home, which was rather dismal. Goes to show you, the best pizza on the island - when it is the only pizza on the island --can be horrid and still be the best! hahahahaha

Ah the day of reckoning....the biggest reason for travelling about 16 hours - The Mule Ride. As we had a 1.5 hour commute we left real early and had bfast at the Cookhouse. Arriving at the Mule ranch we were greeted by our guide - Kealani???? who asked us if we were there for the snorkle trip ----- ahhhh! a grand sense of humor to take us thru our day!!! Absolutely adorable, he has taken over for the sherriff of the colony who has fallen sick. We also talked a great deal of story about the lands and the hawaiin people and the homestead lands.

The mule ride was amazing. The whole time I kept telling myself how blessed we were to experience this amazing trip, people and forbidden land. It was surely an amazing gift. The vista is glorious, and the most beautiful part of the island. The history quickly darkens that beauty.

Another day I was talking story with my caretaker Keala and we laughed about how once she did the trip and a stupid tourist commented that the residents lived the life of Riley. The sherrif angrily responded - "You try being tossed off a boat at the age of 9 to swim or die, and then have your children taken from you years later!!!"

So the island is filled with past and present pain. But the people are wonderful, as we experienced at dinner at the Cookhouse-----THE BEST Downisland Musical entertainment EVER!!!! And fantastic food, too. Riding the mules and then breaking bread with others at the Cookhouse was one of those HUGE days in a lifetime.

Truly,unbelievably, amazingly BLESSED.

And we know it!

awesome. and the best part is that you know how lucky you are!! we felt the same way when we explored maui-- especially the upcountry, inland parts.

great report!

mahalo and mo to come....

Not sure how much longer you'll be on Moloka`i, sistahlou -- but the young and talented Raiatea Helm will be performing at the Hotel Moloka`i this Thursday @ 7pm.

She's the real deal -- voice of an angel...recipient of multiple music awards...sings traditional Hawaiian, and has recently added some jazz tunes to her repertoire (ala Etta James, etc.).

Tell her Auntie Maria sent you! 8-)

Thanks for posting your trip report - I hardly ever read Molokai trip reports!

This is fantastic, can't wait for more!

Wait...Tyra Banks was naked, or the beach was naked?????
:">

The residents of Kalaupapa are so nice, aren't they? Their dogs have become their children--those are some of the most pampered pooches ever.

I think sistah was nekid and Tyra wasn't. :-d

-Bill

You, you you,,,,,,you guys!!! Of course Tyra was nekid while changing out swimsuits! And of course no sane sistah is ganna get nekid near a supermodel with real ta~tas! Red Sands Beach is Hana's little slice of clothing optional heaven....or was. Pila and Marteeen will have to let us know on their trek to Heavenly Hana!

Anyhoo, Molokai was magical and the residents with their cats and dogs were a true gift. One resident actually recieved a bright yellow mustang convertable for Christmas! Good for him I say, although opening that baby up on the few miles of roads will be a challenge! It will be interesting to witness how this area plays out when the last of the residents is gone. The board of heath will move out, the national parks will take over, commercial endeavors will desperately try to build excusive resorts and golf courses, and the decendents of the previous residents of the fishing village will try desperately to get there homelands back. I'm rooting for the hawaiin people having the most beautiful part of the island returned to them to govern and share with others in partnership with the National Parks. One can only hope! And dream! Kealani, if that's his name, speaks well and passionately for his people and his island. As he gets frustrated he shrugs and laughs," but we are the friendly isle and must never forget that."

The eastern road is AMAZING! But only for those that love to drive on the edge of the ocean and have no expectations for the end of the road. What we thought was at first harrowing ended up being the highlight of each day. On our last drive I literally drove 5 miles an hour most of the trip, taking in the beauty, pulling over when the occasional car came by.

I am loving that typo "excusive resorts"

OK, so knowing that we stayed at the most remarkable place on the island, and witnessed the most remarkable entertainment at the Cookhouse - we will someday return. Maybe rent the main lodge and host a kickass party, with the ranchhands and Keala and Keoki of course!

So on Football Saturday we headed out for our 2.5 layover at the little bar in Honolulu's Island Air gateway. This is likely one of those you had to be there stories, but what the hey

A couple next to me were reading the Maui Bluuu Book, so I made an attempt at conversation. They were not all that friendly which is absurd when you're hanging at an airport bar waiting for your first trip to paradise and there is a person with loads of good talk story!

After a second attempt, I backed way off. Well this new guy on their other side starts talking story about living on Maui and you have to go to Olivine Pools and the Blowhole. I talk over them to him saying, Hey, didn't 2 people just drown there? he's like "yeah, that was knarly, tourists are so stupid, Just last week I was there and told this dude to get away from the break and 2 minutes later a wave washed him into the pool and he got cut up real bad, there was blood everywhere! But hey at least he didn't get washed out! That place can mess you u baaad!"

Those two unfriendly tourists slipped out without a goodbye. But hey, we may have scared them into not turning their back on the ocean, so talking gorey details in detail, can be a random act of kindness to two unkind souls!

Landing on Lanai we felt like we were home again. How wonderful for us to return to this island and it's people. It is very different from the other islands in that the very Phillipono locals add a different texture as imports to the Dole plantation, and now supporting the resort industry.

It is tremendous that after only 4 nights on Molokai, we would have been fine with journeying home to the east coast. Arriving on Lanai was like taking a whole new vacation. It was truly 2 vacations in one.

LOL! Gorey story = random act of kindness.

...and I don't think Tyra's ta-tas are real. HA!

Keep it rollin...

-Bill

Now Billy....you wouldn't know real ta~tas if they.........Oh never mind!!!!!!!!!!

The sad thing is...you're absolutely right! And that is a good thing.

-Bill

Children...now behave! Carry on sistah!

But, but, but.....he started it! Fake ta~tas, my akahine!

I guess fake ta-tas are better than a fake akahine!

-Bill

Well, now sistah...you absolutely can't believe all of those perky, pointy, stand up ones are real, can you?

He's just trying to help you understand!!

Like I said, carry on...

((r))i'2

And, you know what else? They may not have spoken English....at least not Bawsten English. Perhaps they didn't understand you....lol lol lol.

Sistah,
Beautiful report. We were on Molokai several years ago for 3 nights and love the seclusion.

You guys are so funny. I practically laughed out loud about sista's comment on ta-tas, but Billy spoke my mind.

...waiting...:-B

-Bill

billy!!!!!

Now you have me all mixed up. I never really explained the night at the Cookhouse on Molokai, now did I?

We get there at 5:10 and the place is packed inside and out. I notice a table half filled and invite us to sitdown. Nice folks that end up visiting us to check out our lodging. Well this really sweet hawaiin guy is strumming and singing, some familiar some not so hawaiin classics. Next thing you know this other local shows up with a wash pan turned into a bass with a pole and a string he thumped and strummed notes you would not believe. Well the first couple left, and I called over another couple from Alaska to join us as they were standing there like deer in headlights. More talk story and 2 more friends showed up to hang with the band, which it had now become. This is one hard time to being livin in the sticks, but bow out we did for the long journey home, but first I invited 6 more people to join our table as I stood and mrlou paid the bill. Spreading the aloha spirit with random acts of kindness.....Priceless!!!

mo on Lanai latah!

<i> &quot;Maybe rent the main lodge and host a kickass party, with the ranchhands and Keala and Keoki of course!&quot;</i>

WELL I sure do hope mauka &amp; makai get an invite to this spectacular PARTY!! ;;)

gyppie, this is wonderful... more... more... my mouth is watering!!! ((R))

Makai - Get an invite???? - hell you'll be in the kitchen by my side making banana/mak/blueberry pancakes while the boys make fresh squeezedlimeaid from that beautiful lime tree and billy brews the coffee while Jack Johnson plays quietly in the background. No???!!!

Lanai, Lanai, Lanai - a whole other world, where to begin?

Just for the record, I was not as bored on Lanai as I tend to be on Kauai, but I was taken aback by its similarity to the show &quot;Northern Exposure.&quot; ha! no no no it was nice though.

Don't start Mels, cuz you'll be makin bacon on Gyppie's Molokai Ranch Pahty, no matter how hung over Kal gets you!

Lanai - yeah instead of moose they have axis deer wandering Main Street!

Looks like we don't have to be too jealous of Tyra these days:
http://tinyurl.com/yfh7wc

Time does have a way of changing things for many of us!:))

...But sistah may be another story!!Ha!

Well it was a lovely landing to this gracious island with gracious people. Heading to the Lodge we were filled with anticipation of our return and wondering how different it would be with the new corporate insignia 4S. All looked the same. We missed the old furniture rather than the updated furnishings, but the bed and linens were pure heaven after our slightly rustic cottage. Note to self, if we return to the ranch on Molokai, fedex new mattresses if we hit powerball, otherwise bring good linens!

The grounds at the Lodge are as glorious as ever, although the blue water at the executive putting green is extremely disturbing. The people are still so wonderful to talk story with.

We had one very intense conversation heading to our room when we happened upon a worker. We discussed the Tsumami watch and warning and he explained that it was particularly disturbing to him as his father was one of those lost on the big island years ago...he just wanted to talk and share.....help me out, there is a memorial about this on BI.

So even in the wake of laughing on the phone with Mak and receiving assurances from Kal that he was tied down to the bar as he tied one on......this was bittersweet remembrance to the power of the ocean and mother earth.

You are correct, it is the Pacific Tsunami Museum.
http://www.tsunami.org/

Lanai City is still so wonderful. We headed there before our bags hit the room to provision up, which was a good idea as drinks at the Lodge were mucho dinero with little payback. This was about hanging and chilling and that is what we did. We had a couple of nights of room service and one amazing meal at the Dining Room. Really really fantastic and worth the tariff in my humble opinion, if you can do it. We ordered the souffle and brought it back to our room as we were spent. Loved it even better with highcount thread sheets and down!

We adored our bfast at Canoes in Lanai City. Such great time hanging local. As I stood up to leave after an onolicous bfast mrlou said &quot;watch you step, bug!!!&quot; Well I pulled my foot back only to discover a praying mantis??? I was horrified, as it looked like one leg was harmed. Then one of the waitresses showed up and blocked her and pointed the poor dude out. I got a menu, and the little guy climbed on and then climbed off into the brush outside. She nearly had tears in her eyes that I would show that respect. Respect????? I stepped on the poor buggah! Horrifying, yet a good ole howzit, down island moment.

Good homefries too!

Souffle in bed? /:)

I like sistah's style.

-Bill

Our jeep rental was simply fantastic. After reading the boards I never bothered checking with Dollar, as we weren't all that impressed with them last trip. EcoAdventureLanai??? was fantastic. Michelle dropped off the jeep at 7am wishing us well and then returned my leather slippahs I left in the back later on our stay. We all know that size doesn't matter, but when you are offroading, the size of the wheels matters!!!! Loved this company, their aloha, and service, not to mention, nice tires!!!!!!

We managed to head out past the Garden of the Gods to the Beach down below. As our jeep dealer mentioned, the trails are much more manageable. We had an amazing morning on this completley secluded beach. Mrlou trecked far enough to see shipwreck beach from a trekkers eye. H ow wonderful to own this beach for a couple of hours. But poor mrlou was so busy trekking that he missed the glorious whale that flew out of the ocean for just a moment. Not to worry, as he listened to my cry of joy the next day when while returning from snorkling the most amazing bay, he witnessed a whale scream out to the ocean and make the most amazing splash!!!!

Howzit whale friend?

DO go on, sistah! You DO have a way with the words! :)

mahalo to those that laugh with me. I tend to believe these get wordy and boring. mahalo to those that rise above our crazy interaction to find the aloha in my writing.