Magnificient, Marvelous Montana!
 

Who we are: Four adult couples who travel together every other year for hiking, fellowship and great times. We range in age from 45 to 62. All of us are in good physical condition.
Where we went: We flew to Billings, MT and drove rental cars to Red Lodge, MT.
Where we stayed: Blue Sky Cabins between Luther and Roscoe, MT (about thirty minutes from Red Lodge)
Because there were four couples we booked the entire resort. DH and I stayed in Granite, which was absolutely lovely. The cabin had very comfortable beds, luxury linens, a huge jacuzzi tub for post hike soaks, and a very nice living room/kitchen/dining room area with a fireplace. Many of the features of the cabins are made by the owner. Their personal care in decorating is very evident. They have put a high premium on romance and guest comfort and privacy. It shows!

Tammy and Kevin Luoma live on site, but maintain a very low profile preferring to let their guests control contact. They were very helpful any time we called on them for dinner suggestions, hiking information.

Where we hiked: Our weather ran the gamut from snow, sleet, and rain to gorgeous days. It was generally between 45-70 during the days, which is quite nice for hiking. We had no mosquitos, but the black flies about did me in on one hike.
We bought Day Hikes in the Beartooth Mountains by Stone and Hiking the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness by Schneider. Both books are excellent guides. I would suggest the Schneider guide is the more thorough.
1. Becker Lake-this is a great hike but we would have been better off to save it for day three or four after we had made the altitude adjustment. This hike starts at 9,000+ and left a couple of us pretty winded.
2. Mystic Lake-an excellent hike on some of the best maintained trail areas I have used. There are several points where one is crossing large boulder fields, normally a challenge for me as I have horrible balance. However the trails were so well maintained even I did them without a problem.

3. Lake Fork of Rock Creek: this is a very easy almost flat hike through the woods. It was pouring rain this day and this was a good choice. I would not have wanted to be scrambling over rocks in the rain.
4. Elk Lake off West Rosebud (thank you,johnthedorf)-this is a splendid hike with waterfalls, lakes, gorgeous vistas, wildlife and RASPBERRIES to pick to your heart's content. Followed by Slough Lake which was a bit more altitude gain, but offered some beautiful sights. What a great day.
5. Stillwater Canyon-Sioux Charley Lake hike. Another perfect day and a wonderful walk. We did see bear scat and snakes (it is a tossup which one is more frightening for me) but the beauty just calms the heart. A walk by rapids and into a glorious forest...really enchanting. We ended the day by sticking our feet in the cold water of the rapids.

What we did when we couldn't hike:

We drove the Beartooth Highway which is simply one of the most spectacular drives I have ever done. The area sports some of the tallest mountains of Wyoming and Montana and is well worth your time.
We also drove to Cody, WY to visit the museums there. They are of excellent quality and exceedingly interesting.
We did a little shopping in Red Lodge. The main street has gift and clothing items and a very nice bookstore. By the way, internet access is available for free at the public library. Great setup so no need to drag a laptop with you.
Where we ate:
I am of the opinion that a girl who hikes should have a very good dinner. We had a first rate meal at Bridge Creek Bistro. So good we went back! Loved the huckleberry salad and my husband is still talking about his pork scallopini. We had a horrible meal at Bogarts...don't go there. And we had a very good pizza at Red Lodge Pizza company. Our server, Cara, was a delight and she helped us learn about all the Red Lodge beers which happen to be quite good. Our favorite pizza was the zip code. A great place to stop when you are a bit "gamey" after hiking. We did not try Pollard's but they have recently hired a new chef and it was recommended to us by a number of people. We also went to the "world famous" Grizzly Pub in Roscoe, MT. The food was fine, but nothing remarkable.

One night we did a progressive dinner at the cabins. Each had a fully stocked kitchen and a charcoal grill. Each couple handled a different course and we had a ball watching sunset and moonrise with deer playing right in front of our porches. A very fun night.

We spent our last night in Billings. Excellent meal at the Walkers Grill. Highly recommended although it is a bit noisy. We stayed at the Crowne Plaza which was fine and very conveniently located.

Summary: I had previously visited Glacier (and after reading Enzian's trip report worried that I had made a mistake going east), Yellowstone and Missoula. Each of those areas has drama and beauty which make them perfect destinations. Red Lodge deserves a place with them. It is a wonderful spot. The Blue Sky Cabins are fantastic and for those who believe luxury cabin or Montana romance to be oxymorons...well here's proof they exist!

Thank you to all of you who were so helpful in my planning. I appreciate the generous and right on the money advice I got. My only regret is that I did not get to try the Chocolate Runs Through It ice cream by Wilcoxins. Maybe next time.........

GO!

cmcfong--Sounds like a fantastic trip! Finding places you can go when you are "gamey" (love that term) is the best;) Any idea where your next trip will be?

mms, you would have loved it! It was a great trip. On our last night we tossed out ideas for the next trip and three of the guys voted for the PNW. You and Enzian are my go to girls for that!!!! Personally I am torn between going back to Lake O'Hara (my favorite place on the planet) and the PNW. One way or another I will get to both in the next two years. I will be depending on your advice!

We were supposed to head back to the Wallowas and E OR this summer for a week of backpacking, but DS knee surgery threw a big wrench in that. So we have that on tap for next summer. I can let you know how that goes as it is a great area of the state and doesn't get near the attention it deserves!

I will be looking for your report, mms. Johnthedorf sent me some great photos from that area which is very intriguing.

Could you combine a few days at Lake O'Hara with a few days in Washington or Oregon? I can't imagine passing up that wonderful place. . .

If you head to the Wallowas I might just have to meet up with you there!

That would be great fun, Enzian. Perhaps we can talk mms into it as well!

I suspect DH and I will do Lake O'Hara without the group. I have always wanted to see it when the larch are golden. The prices are insane so it will only be for a few nights. IF the group were to go there, I suspect we would stay at Mt. Engadine Lodge in Canmore, for the lion's share of the vacation.

Great report, the beartooth highway is simple amazing, I've always wanted to hike in that area.

Welcome home! I loved your report and it certainly makes me want to visit the area.
It sounds like you had a great time.
Nothing better than beautiful scenery!

cmcfong,

Glad you had a great trip. I'm saving this for future reference.

Sorry Bogart's was so bad, especially since I recommended it. Apparently it has gone downhill since we were there so I won't be telling people about it in the future. Thanks for letting me know.

Oh don't feel badly about the Bogart's thing, Fran. Everyone has that risk when they make a reco and sometimes the place just doesn't measure up. It may have been an off day for them, but the food and service were both pretty bad. It was a very small bump in an otherwise fantastic trip. Thanks for taking the time to help me plan!

Sounds like a great trip, one I would love someday. Also, you are very lucky to have such a great group of friends that are willing to have some fun outdoors. We are finding that the older we get (early 50's), the more fuddy-dud our friends are becoming. It's a real drag. Going as a group makes it 10 times more fun, even though my DH and I do alot of travelling together and enjoy it.

Oh, you lucky duck, you! Sounds like a fabulous time (well, all except the hiking part. :) )

Did I miss it or did you mention how long you were there?

cmcfong,

Thanks for your great trip report! Regarding your missing out on Chocolate Runs Through It ice cream...how 'bout I have some for ya in the next couple a days and think of ya while I'm smackin' my lips? :))

-doo

We were there a week, Carrybean. It went by way too fast. I should have given the website for the cabins in my post. Here it is
http://www.blueskycabins.com Great place to stay!
Doo, that is so gracious of you. Have two servings!

Love2RV, you are right, I am lucky to have such a great group of friends. We all get along very well and it does add a fun element to the trips. They are a remarkable blend of personalities.

Wow! Love your cabin. That bath is to die for. Your doggies would have a blast there. Too bad they couldn't enjoy it too. The views are spectacular.

Oh yes,Carrybean, it would have been fun to have the pups along; but, that might have kept the visits from the fawns down!
Blue Sky Cabins are really perfect.

Good to hear the trip was all I said it would be. Be happy you didn't hike the Hellroarin's in the rain! Actually I wouldn't think of recommending that one to the over 30 group! On the Cooke City trail to Elk Lake is that where you stopped? If so you may have to return to the really spectacular part and take mms and enzian with you! The trail to Jasper lake (Becker) is also a favorite. great fishing for Grayling on the far side! If you went over the top you'd find my "secret" camp and Lake. I remember almost stepping on a Ptarmigan whose camouflage
was very effective. He/she never flinched!

I'm so glad you had a great trip, cmcfong! We need to spend more time in the Red Lodge area. My husband has climbed Granite Peak a few times, but we've never spent much time hiking around Red Lodge.

Tell me more about the beers you liked. Our local brewery has just started bottling their Pig's Ass Porter. It's a great beer!

We're headed to Missoula this weekend for football, food, and some Slow Elk. :)

Our favorite of the Red Lodge beers was Hefeweizen . The incredible Cara suggested it to one of us, the rest of us polished off his glass before he could try it and ordered pitchers from then on. We loved it. Granite Peak is a daunting climb and way out of my league, but the hikes to it are wonderful. We loved the area. If you and your husband can put your sweet little girl with a trusted sitter, Blue Sky Cabins would be a very romantic escape for you (with a view of Granite Peak). Have fun in Missoula, kurieff! Go Grizzlies.

John, we did not see any ptarmigan, but we did see some spectacular grouse, pheasant, hawks, eagles and owls. Really a birders' paradise!

I've already looked up the cabins. ;) They look great! It would be a good fall weekend getaway for us.

I'm so glad you had a good trip. :)

I think you would love it, kurieff. I have to say, Montana has never been a disappointment. I have loved every trip there and can hardly wait to return.

cmcfong,

I'm so glad to hear you had a good time. I like Red Lodge too. It must have been the Bistro I enjoyed for dinner. I couldn't remember the name extactly, but I think it had Bistro in it. Was it the place on Main St. with the nice wine selection?

Sounds like the hiking is great. I'll have to go back with friends so I can enjoy it.

I will bet it was the Bridge Creek Bistro, Dayle. Very nice place with an excellent wine list. It is about midway down the main street which I believe is Broadway. It has the bar and a few tables on the left and a small gift shop area on the right as you enter. The main dining area is in the back behind the bar.

Definitely put it on the "to do" list. Great trip!

Yep, that was the place!

topping for Peyton's Grandma.

Thanks cmcfong.... Lovely report. Wow, I have so many places I want to go and now I have to add this to my list. I'd love to do what you did, before I get so old I can't hike anymore. I printed your report, will casually lay it on DH's desk marked "we must do this". Also looked at the cabins site.. great amenities! We have time share, so I'll have to check for condos in the area first, but think the cabins would be fantastic. Thanks again, loved it!!

Sounds like a great trip. We have never visited Montana. Have to add it to our list. We have several friends who enjoy hiking together.

We recently returned from Lake Louise/Jasper with two other couples. We had fabulous weather and blue skies everyday except for the day we reserved to hike at Lake O'Hara--bummer. I've been wanting to return to the Rockies for 4 years to hike that area--we did easy hiking the day before, to save ourselves--and then rain, rain, rain--we knew there were mountains there somewhere.

We still had a fabulous week and our friends, were totally amazed with the unbelievable scenery. I am awed every time we visit. It is possibly the only place I could return to every year--except there are so many places that we haven't been.

Hope we get to hike Lake O'Hara someday. The rates at the Lodge are more than we want to pay, but what a spectacular location.

Thanks for the great report, Montana is also on our "to-do" list. Those cabins look perfect! Sounds like you had a really nice time!

A great trip report cmcfong; I got my first glimpse of Montana this summer on the Empire Builder train. Took probably 12 hours to cross east-west and Glacier Park was a highlight, just gorgeous! I felt it was a huge slice of America I'd been missing. Your trip report makes me want to explore that state MUCH more in depth...

Here is a link to the photos, if you are interested. It is not necessary to join Facebook to view them.
http://tinyurl.com/3nqr5l

Linda, I just love the whole area between Banff and Jasper. It really is spectacular isn't it? Have you ever stayed at Mt.Engadine Lodge in Kannanaskis? It is much more reasonably priced than Lake O'Hara and enjoys some of that isolation.

Owlwoman and Daniel, I have read so many of your wonderful trip reports, I am glad mine interested you!

To anyone even thinking about Montana, all I can say is GO!

Hi cmcfong-

What a lovely trip report! LOVE the photos - esp the morning view from your bedroom window. WOW!

Thanks, yk. It was a great trip. I heard yesterday that the place we stayed had over 33 inches of snow! Sounds like we timed our visit well.

Loving reading the trip report. It will help in planning this summer's trip.

topping for Kay2

Glad to see this report again :-)

We ate at a great restaurant - Carbon County Steakhouse(recommended by our hotel)
http://www.thepizzaco.com/steakhouse/

Heather is the owner/manager/menu designer? I'm not sure which - but the food was, by far, the best of the trip.

I had the best mussels I'd ever had (flown in fresh that day) and the seafood pasta special. Incredible! The steaks were good. Everything was good. HIGHLY recommend this place.

They were undergoing renovations and you had to enter from the back while they rebuild the front with outside patio dining. Even with the difficulty in finding the door, the place was packed on a weekday. A great find!

Thanks for topping. I don't know how I missed your trip report when I started my research.

The cabins look gorgeous. Above our price range, but understandable. I am definitely thinking cabin for this trip, picnics, with one restaurant meal per day if it fits our outdoor activities, else eat in the cabin.

You answered a question I had about books--the Stone book or one of the Schneider books ("Best easy day hikes" or "Hiking the Absaroka-Beartooth"). You say the second Schneider is more thorough than the Stone book. I found someone else online who recommended the same book.

That person also suggested the Lake Fork Trail yet I see someone commented to you that it was for the under 30s.

The same person who suggested Lake Fork also recommended Red Lodge Pizza. So I am making my list.

I will look for some of the other hikes you list that I had not listed yet.

Starrs, thanks for your responses on my post. Our other visit to Yellowstone was in early June a few years ago. The roads in the park closed one day for snow and I think the Beartooth was just opening. I tried to hike up Mt Washburn in the snow, but settled for a picnic table part way up. September has the possibility of the least snow at the high elevations before the winter sets in again.

I am trying to remember my impression of the scattering of cabins that is Cooke City--did I think "Great, this would be dark for stars at night, quiet for wildlife, and relaxing." or "This is really depressing." I will try to jog my husband's memory of that day. I think we bought picnic supplies that we ate back in Yellowstone.

I will look at the possibility of taking Hwy 14 to circle from Cody to Billings. It looks like my kind of drive. Unfortunately my list of where I want to go/do is now longer than 3 full days on the ground allows. I'm thinking--"Can I really go back that close to Yellowstone and not go in looking for bison and the like?" Sigh.

Kay, the Beartooth Parkway had just opened up when we were there (we were also the first to go over the Going to the Sun in Glacier). I was amazed at how much snow/ice there was. I did a hike in Arches with some ice still in the shadows (years ago) and it scared me to death. I just imagined slipping over the edge. The view of Delicate Arch was worth it, but...

Cooke City would be more depressing to me than relaxing but I live out in the country anyway. I like to have some civilization and restaurant options around me on trip. And I was just enchanted with Red Lodge. Didn't expect such a cute little town.

We stayed here - http://alpineredlodge.com/rooms.htm
It was on the north edge of town so I imagine you could see plenty of stars if not wildlife. The place is owned and run by a husband and wife team and they are super nice. The place is super clean. Simple, motor lodge type place with knotty pine paneled rooms. Our room had a cowboy motif. Cute without being over the top.

I wouldn't make the Hwy 14 drive unless you want to see Little Bighorn BUT it was a beautiful drive. One of the prettiest drives of our trip - and we covered a lot of ground in WY and MT.

Enjoy your return trip :-)