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-   -   Itinerary Question: Nevada, Arizona, Utah area (https://www.fodors.com/community/united-states/itinerary-question-nevada-arizona-utah-area-851378/)

peterboy Aug 5th, 2010 08:59 AM

C'mon artnuvo...tell how you really feel LOL

You should remind yourself that oceania is taking HER
vacation not YOURS. I agree that it is a hectic schedule
and it isn't how I would approach it but it IS possible
to do what oceania wants to do within the time frame suggested.

spirobulldog Aug 5th, 2010 11:28 AM

I somewhat agree with artnuvo. I wasn't going to post anything on this thread. Yes, I suppose you can check everything off your list, but you really won't be experiencing any of the places and you can only somewhat say you saw them. I always find the longer I stay at a National Park, the more I enjoy it. Some parks, don't require that much time, but for I would probably give my entire 7 days to just Bryce and Zion.

I love Mesa Verde. BTW, it will take you an hour to get to the sights after you enter the park and then another hour to exit the park. The road is long and slow. So really you have time to see one sight while at Mesa Verde before it is time to go. Most of the ruins require a guide, and those are usually at 9:00 or 10:00AM and last an hour or so. You can then get another ticket, but it would be for an afternoon tour.

I can't imagine being able to see Mesa Verde and 4 corners, then being at the GC in time to go to bed. Plus, you are doing all of this driving solo, so you can't even trade off and sleep occasionally.

oceania Aug 5th, 2010 03:35 PM

bachslunch and peterboy thank you. It would be nice if people respected other's styles and preferences but that's really their issue, not mine.

hotzim Aug 5th, 2010 03:39 PM

I am going to vote with those that suggest slowing your trip down so you are spending less time driving from A to B and more time experiencing the places rather than just checking them off. We really liked the Page, AZ area and enjoyed a boat trip of several hours on the lake and also went rafting on the river as well as hiking on the sandstone overlooks. Sedona is nice, but over-rated and a little pricey, if that's a consideration. I have seen many, many National Parks and Mesa Verde is near the bottom of the list for me. Flagstaff is OK, but why go out of your way to stay there? After Grand canyon head back towards Vegas. Also one of my favorite float trips ever is the Black Canyon that leaves from the base of the Hoover Dam.

oceania Sep 7th, 2010 06:08 PM

I'm back from my trip and had a fantastic time, thanks to all for your help. For those interested, here's my trip report if you're planning a similar trip:

I flew into Las Vegas and rented a car from Alamo close to the airport (there's a free shuttle that takes you to rent-a-car centre that has all the major companies in the same place). They will use fear mongering to get you to buy extra insurance and GPS but I didn't go for it. My credit card has the adequate insurance and part of the stipulation is that you explicitly decline CDW coverage. I considered getting GPS but glad I didn't - I didn't even have a map and didn't get lost as there are signs posted everywhere.

I got the car and drove to Springdale and I stopped along the way to buy some food and supplies. All the stores including Walmart were out of the styrofoam coolers but fortunately I found one at Sol Foods in Springdale for $2!!

I stayed at Zion Park Motel in Spring which was about $80/night - the room had a microwave and mini fridge, plus there was a ice machine. From Walmart and Sol I bought a bunch a food (yogurt, fruit, musuli, small packets of peanut butter, cheese, tuna, bread loaf, hummus and pasta salad). I also got a 9litre jug of water which was way better and cheaper than buying the smaller jugs. I also filled up my water bottle where I could as well.

The next day I took the shuttle from town to the park which was less than 10mins, entrance fee was $12. I did 3 hikes: Observation Point which took me under 4 hours return even though NPS estimates 5 hours. The other 2 were Riveside Wwalk and Weeping Rock. I highly recommend the Observation Point hike especially if you're afraid of heights and don't want to try the other 2. Riverside Walk and Weeping Rock are ok, I personally think they're missable. I stopped and some of the other points such as Temple Sinawava and the museum. I got back to the town around 4pm and got take-out from Whiptail Grill (their grilled prawn tacos are amazing!!). I just checked out the shops and walked the small, quiet time reminder of the day. I tried the Bumbleberry pie, it was ok...tastes better with ice cream.

I waited until 8am before heading out Bryce the next morning because the highway doesn't open until then due to construction. The construction zone was about 13 miles with some crazy narrow winding cliffs and 1mile thru a canyon. There was about 30min delay due to construction. I got to Bryce Canyon around 10:30am - my original plan was to stay in Glendale but a few people mentioned that the sunrise was the best part about Bryce so I opted to stay in Bryce City - I would personally wouldn't do that again because the quality of food and service is pretty low/bad and the sunrise/sunset isn't all that great. I had the buffet lunch at Ruby's before heading to the park - it's about $12 and food consisted of mash potatoes, bbq pork, ribs, fried chicken, beans and corn bread...the salad bar was pathetic. I had to pay $25 instead of $12 for park entrance because I was bringing in my car so I could see the sunrise/set. There's nobody at the entrance before and after sunset so you could actually go in without paying.

I arrived at Bryce Point at 1pm and started my hike from there I did half of Peak-a-boo and half of Navajo Loop going to Sunset and Sunrise Point took a break there and filled up on water before heading back down through the Queens Garden Trail and the other half of Navajo and Peek-a-boo ending back at Bryce...these trails were AMAZING. I'd highly recommend this route, it took me about 4 hours, about 8 or 9 miles. I spent sunset at Inspiration and sunrise at Bryce Canyon (tons of tourists there at that time) but I saw way better views/lighting during my hike. If I had to do it again, I would stay at Glendale and would skip the early sunrise.

I stayed Fosters, the sign infront of the hotel said $60 but when I inquired she told me $75 cash or $85 credit card. I found a big hairball in the shower and there's no sound proofing at all, all noise can be heard including opening and closing of doors. The buildings are pretty much shacks. There is fridge and microwave but no ice machine. I got hardly any sleep because I was so cold despite turning up the heat.

The next morning I headed to Bryce Point to the check out the sunrise, I was pretty disappointed especially with all the tourists standing there with their cameras ready to capture their shots. BTW, it's absolutely freezing here in the morning!! I returned to the motel to get my stuff and had breakfast there...disgusting that cost $10 including taxes and tip.

I headed off to Page Arizona and I stopped along Big Water to check out the dinosaur information/exhibit. I made a few more stops along the way and arrived in Page around 11am. Antelope Canyon can only bee seen by a tour company but I hadn't booked anything. Each tour company has different times they can go to the canyon. I went to 2 places before I decided to book the 12pm tour with Overland Tours (I just saw the sign). The actual tour was ok...basically they drive you there and tell you which angles to take the picture from and how to adjust your camera but my guide hadn't a clue about photography or cameras. That lasts 1hr 45m and cost $32. The place is generally packed between 10-1 because the best time to see it. Next I headed to Horseshoe Bend which wasn't too far but there's a mile hike from the car park to Horseshoe Bend in the sand so be prepared for that.

Originally I had planned to go to Cortez Colorado after this but I expected to have left Page by 1pm, it was now 3pm and I decided not to to Cortez. I wasn't sure what to do next so I headed for Kayenta. Once I reached there I found a sign that said "Tourist Info" which was inside a basic coffee shop. The guy gave me some info and asked if I had reservations when I said no, he said everything here is $200/night but he said he had a friend that just opened up a B&B for $40. He called her up and I spoke with her - basically she's opened up her home to guests so you share the bathroom and kitchen with her and her kids and this evening with her girlfriend and 2 year old son. She didn't make or offer any breakfast for me either and apparently now her prices are $40 for the room and $10 for breakfast.

I was going to take a guided tour through Monument Valley but so glad I just did the self-drive ($5). It takes about 90mins for the 17mile loop. It scenically nice but what a bore after a while. It was roughly around 9:30 when I finished and I headed back on the highway and stopped off at Navajo Monument Valley since I was passing it (even though there's a 20mile detour). I did 2 of the smaller hikes, spent about an hour before returning back to the highway. This was also skip-able IMO.

I was now headed toward the Grand Canyon (east entrance) along the way I saw a sign "Dinosaur Tracks". As the name indicates there's dinosaur tracks on some Navajo land, I pulled up and a lady stopped me to ask if I'm here to look at the tracks when I said she, said park there and I'll show you them. She didn't mention anything about a price even though I knew it wasn't free. Anyways she spent about 10mins showing me the dinosaur tracks, eggs and excrement. She told me all the information she was giving me was from UA students who did research here. She asked if I liked the tour and when I said yes, she said she normally charges $20. I told her she shouldn't have mentioned that at the beginning of the tour, not the end. I was going to give her a $5 tip but told her I'll give her $10 and of course she gladly accepted that.

I then continued to GCP, I arrived at 2pm and had I known how big it really was, I wouldn't have spent 2 hours getting to the GC village (I was stopping at all the points) which aren't nearly as impressive. However, I'd definitely recommend checking out the Tusayan ruins and museum, I'd skip the Desert Tower.

I reached the village at 4pm, checked in at Yavapai Lodge and had lunch/dinner at cafeteria there. Yavapai was really nice (no AC but I didn't need it anyways). It cost $115, no fridge or microwave but there was a ice machine. The 2 meals I had at the cafeteria were really good. I had a full pot roast with 2 sides and a roll for $10...it tasted really good. Around 5pm I took the shuttle to Powell and walked to Monument Creek Vista. BTW Hopi is packed with tourist at sunrise/set for the views. It's so dumb that people blindly just listen what's the best spot according to soemone else's opinion. Anyways, the best views are from this area IMO during daylight hours.

The next day I started South Kaibab hike at 7am and it only took me 30mins to get to get to Cedar Point even though NPS estimates 2-4 hours for the return trip. Since it was only 7:30 I proceeded to hike to Skeleton's Point and was there about 8:15am. I stayed there for 15minutes before starting my hike back. Along the way I saw several people who started the same time as me still heading down. I got back to the top at 9:45pm...so it took 2 hours 45mins and I took plenty of stops for rest and pictures. I guess I'm better shape than I thought.

After that I went to Yaki Point and then stopped at Pipe Creek which is beginning of the paved trail to Mather's Point. From there I went to Geology Museum but because there were so many people I just walked through it and then started a very brisk hike through Shrine of Ages and back to the "village". Got back to the hotel, checked out, had lunch at the cafeteria and then started my drive down to Winslow to see the Meteor Crater.

Unfortunately the website said the last tour was at 2:15pm and wouldn't you know it, I got there at 2:20pm but fortunately in the summer they extend it to 3:15. The tour was interesting, you basically walk 2minutes from the visitor centre to the rim of the crater and guide talks about the crater. There's also gift show, museum and movie. I spent about an hour there before heading back towards Flagstaff. Admission is $15 which I think is steep.

I was planning on stopping at Walnut Canyon since it was on the way but I got stuck in traffic due to construction which lasted 1hour sitting in the exact same spot whilst baking the sun. It was 4:55pm by the time I goto Walnut Canyon and they close at 5pm so I just headed to my hostel.

I stayed at Grand Canyon Hostel on San Francico St. It's $20 and includes free wi-fri and breakfast. I had an amazing take-out dinner for from a nearby Greek restaurant for $10 and just walked around town, it was pretty quite and most of the shops were closed.

One of the girls I was sharing a room with suggested to check out the town of Oatmen on my way back to Vegas because it was old time mining town and there were donkeys walking along the street. I thought, why not, it sounds interesting but it was abandon crap town...I didn't see a single person, just a few cars but it was along the historic route 66.

I headed back to Vegas and made a brief stop at Kingsmen and the Hoover Damn...I have no idea why this is such a huge tourist site. I made it to Vegas around 11:30am so I decided to go to Fashion Mall in Primm...it was disappointing. The Premium Outlet is way better. I also did some shopping at the Fashion Show mall.

Things to note: it's EXTREMELY DRY so take adequate creams, eye drops, etc. Also take warmer clothes because it does get cool not only at night/early morning but even during the day...there was cold winds while hiking in Zion.

Approximate Costs (excluding Vegas):
Car: $155
Gas $106 (drove total of 1300 miles)
Accommodations: $428
Food (groceries, snacks and meals): $250
Entrance Fees: $124
Total: $1064

spirobulldog Sep 8th, 2010 03:12 AM

You can buy a National Park Pass that covers all National Monuments, National Recreation, National Parks, and is also a Northwest Park Pass(for parking at some trailheads). These are $80.00 for an entire year. I always enjoy the Hoover Dam, especially going to the bottom and the tour. I am glad you found The Whiptail-very good. The guided tours at Monument Valley go off the main road and allow you to see a whole lot more.

emalloy Sep 8th, 2010 03:41 AM

Thanks for reporting back, sounds like a full trip.

Next time you do not need to sign up for one of the tours of Antelope canyon in Page. Just take your car there pay to park in the lot and pay for a tour with one of the Navajo guides, I think the parking was $6 per car and the tour was $20 per person.

Spirobulldog is right about the National Park pass, $80 for a year is a bargain and for US seniors it is $10 for a lifetime and good for the folks in your car. It is not for Navajo or state parks like Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley, however.

oceania Sep 8th, 2010 06:25 AM

I know about the annual pass but I only paid $62 for the National Parks so it didn't make sense to pay almost $20 more especially considering I don't live in the US and won't be back there again within the year.

cheryllj Sep 8th, 2010 06:42 AM

"I headed back to Vegas and made a brief stop at Kingsmen and the Hoover Damn...I have no idea why this is such a huge tourist site."

I went to Vegas many times before I finally visited Hoover Dam, but once I took the full tour and heard the story of how the "damn" (heh) was built, it's no mystery why it's still a tourist attraction.

It's an engineering marvel, but you can't get the story by just driving over it and taking a photo. It's truly amazing, and required the engineers and builders to figure it out as they went along because they did things that had never been done before.

Myer Sep 8th, 2010 07:56 AM

If I read correctly you hike both sides of Navajo Loop. I thought the Wall Street side is closed due to a rock slide.

Is it now open?

oceania Sep 10th, 2010 09:45 AM

Myer, I believe so because you could walk on Wall street side...there were no closures of any sort.

dolphinsrsmart Sep 10th, 2010 04:19 PM

As you are going by Kingman Arizona, take a four mile jaunt off highway I-40 (exit highway 66 going towards Peach Springs) to go for a tour and tasting at Desert Diamond Distillery. It is a small family run business making Vodka, clear rum and dark rum, and soon to be agave rum, on the tasting bar, but will be out soon. A great place to see while cruising through the area, and only 5 minutes from the highway. It shouldn't change your itenerary, but it will be worth stopping for! Check out www.desertdiamonddistillery.com!

HunyBadger Sep 17th, 2010 08:48 AM

Sounds like you hike like us. Thanks for posting about the time it takes. We're off to that area soon and were wondering how long they would be.

Also glad you did see the meteor. I missed it the first time I was in the area and really wished I had insisted on it. Now I KNOW I will go.

citiboy50 Mar 10th, 2011 01:57 PM

I need advice-12 nights-April 7 to 19-Want to cover Pheonix, Grand Canyon, sedona and Tuscon. Hotels, time in each city,hikes,etc. Should we fly into Pheonix or tuscon to start. looking for reasonable places to stay. Somebody suggested the Arizona Inn in Tuscon. We love mtns living in Miami. Thanks.

spirobulldog Mar 10th, 2011 11:38 PM

You'll probably find less expensive flights and more times offered through Phoenix. This post is old, so you might consider starting a new one, just for you.

janisj Mar 12th, 2011 08:08 PM

<B>cityboy50:</B> You really should start a new thread of your own instead of tacking on to a year old one.

Your questions/itinerary are different than the OP's and your post will likely get lost in the shuffle while others post responses to the OP.


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