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Fodorites' Recommendations for Yellowstone & GTNP
I have been compiling a list for some time now from posts I've read on Fodor's. A few items may have come from other sources. It's a list of things we should do, see, etc., while visiting the GTNP and Yellowstone area. We are going in Sept 06, so the list is definitely slanted for that season, but I still think it might help others planning their trips. It is not complete, but with so many traveling this summer, I figured now would be as good a time as any to post it. <b>If I have missed something you loved in this area, please post it here.</b>
<i>For sharondi and others who have asked how I plan for trips</i>: *Road conditions: 307-344-2117 *Xanterra (Lodging Reservations): 866-439-7375 <b>YELLOWSTONE:</b> *Swimming in the geyser heated Firehole River a highlight. *Various geyser basins (Norris Geyser Basin is the best IMHO) *Swimming in the Fire Hole and soaking in the spring up near Mammoth: Near Gardiner (northern entrance to Park) is a place called Boiling River (not in most guide books). It is just past Continental Divide sign with a parking lot. It's a convergence of river and hot spring, so that you climb over rocks and sit in a natural jacuzzi - there is a sign at the parking lot describing it. *In Gardiner, eat at Park Street Cafe. *Elks rutting often congregated in a meadow at Mammoth Hot Springs *The meadows several miles towards W. Yellowstone are great places to see the rut. Early morning fog coming off river with sun rising in background makes for excellent photos. *See Artist Point in canyon area. *Lunch or dinner at Old Faithful Inn. *Places you might see <b>GRIZZLIES</b>: 1. Sedge Bay to Lake Junction 2. Hayden Valley - Elk Antler Creek and the Mary's Mountain Trail area. 3. Tower side of Dunraven Pass 4. Swan Lake Flats 5. Sylvan lake area to fishing bridge area *Places you might see <b>WOLVES</b>: 1. The Hayden Pack is being seen regularly, best viewing can usually be done from the Grizzly Overlook (has a log "fence" around the perimeter of the paved area. Located high, overlooking the river, just before you head down into the flats of Alum Creek). The white alpha female makes a great spotting object. Griz are also bit players in the Hayden Pack drama frequently, as you would expect. 2. The Agate Creek pack is frequently visible from the pullouts above Antelope Creek, on the north side of Dunraven Pass. Their rendezvous site is also a long ways off, but plenty visible to anyone with a scope. The crowds form daily at that string of pullouts. It's one of the best shows in town lately. Grizzlies and a lone moose make cameo appearances, just to spice things up. *In Canyon area, try eating at the Soda Fountain in the general store, (Delaware parks, not Xanterra.) <b>TETONS:</b> *Wildlife caravan: September 6 – September 30, Daily 5:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m.; For reservations call the Moose Visitor Center at (307) 739-3399. Limited to ten vehicles. Dress warmly and bring binoculars or spotting scopes. Check in at the Moose Visitor Center at least ten minutes before the tour. This activity is free of charge. *Oxbow Bend Wildlife Watch: September 6 – September 30 Daily 6:00 p.m. to 7:30 p.m. No reservations required. Join a ranger at the Oxbow Bend Overlook for an evening wildlife watch. Stop by anytime from 6:00 pm. – 7:30 p.m. to scan the Oxbow for birdlife and large mammals. *Sunset at Signal Mountain is spectacular. *Mormon Row at sunrise is fabulous. *Take 4-5 hours and drive the GTNP "loop" and stop at every "pull out". *Take the boat ride across Jenny Lake and hike/climb to Hidden Falls & Inspiration Point. *Drive down Antelope Flats Road to view the bison close up and to see the Moulton Barn. (Both are great photo ops.) *Have lunch or dinner outdoors at Dornan's (at Moose in GTNP). *View the whole range from Signal Mountain. It is a panoramic sweeping view of the whole thing--don't miss sunset. *Museum of the Plains Indians at Colter Bay Drive to the String Lake parking lot and do some hiking in the Tetons *Great mountain views with possibility of moose at end of Schwabacher Rd. *Ride tram up mountain, closing down fall 2006. *From Signal Mountain, it's a 5 minute drive to Oxbow Bend and Jackson Lake Lodge. The area between them is one of the richest wildlife habitats in the world. *Places you might see <b>MOOSE</b>: Willow Flats Oxbow Bend Wilson Road (access in Moose Jct) at dawn and dusk. <b>JACKSON:</b> *Supplies: Albertson's at 105 Buffalo Way; K-Mart off Rte 189/191 *Bar-T-5 Chuckwagon show and dinner in Jackson <b>STAR VALLEY:</b> *On U.S. Highway 89, along the Idaho border and 35 miles south of Jackson, Wyoming, and within 100 miles of Teton & Yellowstone National Parks: beautiful area, scenic drive and pioneer towns. <b>CODY:</b> *For supplies: WalMart on west of town; Albertson's on east side of town. *Buffalo Bill Historical Center highly recommended, $15 adult, entrance ticket good for two consecutive days; Smithsonian-like museum. *Trail Town, may look like a tourist trap, but it is one of the neatest and most unique western museums *Heart Mountain Relocation Camp, housed 11,000 relocated Japanese during WWII--west of Cody toward Powell, on Alt 14. *Maxwells, easy walk from the Buffalo Bill Historical Center. Open for lunch and dinner; pick up a good loaf of bread at the cash register--their sourdough is a mild sourdough with a crispy crust. *Sierra Trading Post Outlet Store, 1402 8th. Street *COLT (public bus for $2) and 4 person bicycle rentals I'm hoping this will begin a good resource thread for Yellowstone/GTNP vacationers. Have a safe and wonderful trip! :) |
I tried to edit the above post for easier reading, but it would not let me. Hope you can understand it the way it is.
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I would add a meal at Lake Lodge in Yellowstone. Your list is a great print & go guide!!!!
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Thanks, Aunt Annie!
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Definitely add the wildlife museum in Jackson. (I forget its name.)
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Thanks, Howard! I bet you recognized a lot of your advice on my list. You are a wonderful help! I am searching for the name now and will add the museum to the list. :)
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OMG, Howard! BEAUTIFUL architecture!
National Museum of Wildlife Art Open daily 9 - 5 2820 Rungius Road Jackson Hole, WY 83002 ph. 800-313-9553 Adult Admission $10.00 per person. Children 18 and under visit FREE when accompanied by an adult. LOTS of great things going on there in addition to the museum itself. Thanks so much, Howard! |
Wow! What a great list, BayouGal. That is most helpful!
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Great list, BayouGal. I'll definitely print it. We'll be there just before you in Sept. Really looking forward to it. I'll be sure to go thru my notes and see if there's anything I have that's not on your list.
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BayouGirl, you will love that area. September is great month to go there...the best month of the year for a visit....The foliage is beautiful, the weather is great, the crowds are gone, the animal sightings are everywhere.
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Bayou Gal! Your itinerary is really useful 4 me. been checking it out from what I can over the internet. I was, as you may remember from my post, trying to squeeze too much into a 15 day trip. I am planning to get to the US 01-03 September and am now considering focusing on Yellowstone and Grand Teton. Think I can come along?? :)
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BayouGal,
Thank you, A most helpful post. I have been reading this message board over the last several months and have become very familiar with all of the regular posters. Thanks to all of you who have unknowingly helped to plan our Sept trip to Yellowstone & Grand Teton. BayouGal, you always asked my questions before I had a chance and got the answers. I think we are doing a similar trip & will be in the parks about the same time as you. Did you decide to spend the night in Cody? I think you decided to stay at Signal Mt. in GT. We will be in GT on Sept 21 for 3 nights and we are still undecided between Signal Mt and the condos at Teton Village. I'm just concerned about the driving back and forth. Any suggestions or recommends!! thanks again to all of you!! |
This is great...thank you. I am just starting to think about next summer's trip (always have to have at least one on the drawing board :D )and a road trip in that part of the west is one of the top possibilities I am considering right now.
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Oh, how we loved Yellowstone. The best part, in retrospect, was having our transmission go out near Tower/Roosevelt Lodge and being forced to stay an extra week, slow down, and enjoy it. Being low in cash made the one ice cream cone each we allowed ourselves at Tower store such a treat.
We camped in Slough Creek, highly recommended, in late August, and saw young wolves gambolling near the junction of Slough Creek turnoff and the main road. Lamar Valley is beautiful and quiet in the evening. |
I am so glad this thread is proving beneficial for so many! I enjoy helping with travel planning . . . can you tell? ;-) And I feel STRONGLY about repaying in kind for all the valuable help I have received from so many!
Sikki, how much do you weigh? Maybe you'll fit in my duffle bag! ;-) Please let me know how your planning is going. Where are you now? I think I read on the Europe forum that you are in Pakistan (?) . . . sounds like you are planning some great trips! sharondi, when do to you get back from your trip? Please post any good ideas you've come up with so far. This board works much better if we all share our "secrets." LoL BTW, what's your itinerary, OR what is the title of the thread with your itinerary? HowardR, any and all reassurance and encouragement from you (an expert who's always most helpful) means more than you know! Yes, Link, we are overnighting one night in Cody. No reservations yet, however. BTW, got my 2 nights at OFI. SOOOOOO excited about that! :) What's the delimma between Signal Mt and the Condos? I agree, fun4all4, and planning can be one of the best parts, huh?! :) stokebailey, you sound like a really neat person . . . I love it when folks can turn lemons into lemonade. You make me really glad we're going to Yellowstone soon! |
BayouGal,
I'm sure your compilation of info will be very helpful for others looking into this area. We really loved walking through the Upper Geyser Basin late at night with a full moon and also very early in the morning. There was a very magical feeling being surrounded by the steam from large and minute thermal features. |
Thanks, Clousie. You seem to offer me good advice no matter where we're going. :) I am looking forward to some "night viewing" . . . one of the best parts of staying in our great parks. Unfortunately, looks like they'll be NO moon while we're there, but we'll still try.
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Oops . . . grammar/senile moment alert--that should be "there will" not they'll. Lordy! :)
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Hi to all
Re; To stay at Signal Mt. or Teton Village Condos? I like the idea of just waking up and being right in the middle of things, but after spending 6 night in Yellowstone, my husband will have gone through too much TV withdrawal. No TV's at Signal Mt. The condos sound so nice especially after the NP lodging. Just trying to decide if it is worth the daily drive up to the lakes for our activities. BayouGal, So happy that you finally got your nights at Old Faithful, I know you have been trying every day, Congratulations!!! It pays to be persistent! Thanks again for compiling that great list. |
Link, your husband's dilemma is exactly the reason I decided to include the overnight in Cody. We'll be at Dunraven in the park for 2 nights, then go to Cody for 1 night, on to Mammoth, OFI, then the last nights at Signal Mt before we fly out of Jackson. If you have read my threads, then you know I really debated those lasts night, too. My DH goes right back to work that next day so I had a tough decision. He finally made it in the end and wants to try what we have. Besides, I figure if it's too rough at Signal Mt, then we'll cancel the last night and find a modern hotel in town for the last night. It's such a tough decision to make, isn't it? We thought we'd have this same problem in Yosemite, Alaska, Grand Canyon, etc., but those areas were just so lovely that not having the extra amenities didn't matter at all.
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BayouGal,
We plan to return home on Sat, Sept 16 but still haven't booked airfare. The flights from Albany to Salt Lake and especially Jackson all suck! It's kinda messing up our itinerary a little. If all goes as planned, we should fly into SLC & head toward West Yellowstone - stay somewhere. Then we have 2 nights each in OF, Mammoth, & Canyon. Then one night at Signal Mtn. We still have the last night open but we'll probably need to make an early flight out of SLC the next day. Not sure yet. We just bought a bunch of maps & info from the Yellowstone Association - they have been really helpful. Also bought a few books to take along. |
Sharondi, we bought our tickets around Feb. It's hard now after Katrina to find good flights out of N.O. without paying a bundle, but when I found a reasonable fare to Jackson, I jumped on it. No matter how much I travel, I still have trouble knowing just when to purchase airline tickets. We actually saved money by flying into Jackson and renting a car there. I hope you can get it all straightened out soon. If I can help in any way, please let me know!
BTW, we arrive on Sept 15 and drive from Jackson to Canyon. Good luck! |
BayouGal,
Don't think you'll find Signal Mt "too rough" especially if you love magnificent scenery. It's a great location away from the crowds. There is also a quite good (for the area) restaurant on the property. One side is more like a family restaurant, but the one to the left when you enter the building is a very nice dining room with moe upscale choices. Enjoy! |
Thanks, Clousie. That's what I figured. Hey, the more remote in Alaska, the more we loved it so I think these digs will be kind of upscale to us after that. LoL :)
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Link, I forgot to tell you that we are staying in a rustic cabin with a gas fireplace at Signal Mountain. Hope you have a great trip!
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Thanks Bayougal!! What a helpful list. We are trying to figure out where to go next June, and this moves Yellowstone and the Tetons up the list.
Hi Fun4all4--I guess you are as sick as I am--just back from one trip and planning the next. Where else are you considering? |
Almost forgot, one other strong recommendation is to get a copy of Frommer's handy guidebook, "Yellowstone & Grand Teton National Parks." It's a most useful book, and it's small enough to carry around in your pocket or camera bag. Highly recommended.
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HI digbydog!
I don't want to hijack this thread, especially as it is being set up as a resource....feel free to email me and I'd be happy to hash through our different thoughts - in fact, I'd love to hear what you are considering and other places you've been with the guys. :-) |
Did I miss anything on the list, all you Wyoming and Montana experts??? Thanks~
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John, on another thread, recommended seeing the Lone Star Geyser which is near Old Faithful.
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Here's an interesting map of volcanic activity, location of quakes, boundaries of cauldera, etc. http://tinyurl.com/omztx
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Soxgirl, now that you are back from your trip, what would you add to this list?
Thanks! |
Great list, BG!
I enjoy ranger led hikes in the National Parks. One day when I found myself solo (boys were fishing, SIL was shopping) I went on one to STANDING petrified trees on a ridge. What a great day. Last week I went on a night hike at the GC North Rim. Check the ranger led options while you are there for great experiences. |
BayouGal,
I'll return the favor for your help on the Alaska board, by telling you that when you do the hike to Inspiration Point, be sure to go on farther. Although Inspiration Point is beautiful, Cascade Falls (I think that's the name) is gorgeous! We hiked quite a bit farther on--not hard at all--and saw a huge moose standing in the water just chewing and watching us. Don't miss the scenery on beyond "the point." Also, we stayed last summer at Signal Mountain Lodge and loved it. We stayed in one of the rooms--bedroom, living/dining area, kitchenette, and bath--overlooking the lake. What a breathtaking sunset! Not rough at all, and believe me, I do not like it rough. We also did a whitewater trip down the Snake River with Mad River Runners. Great trip. In Yellowstone we hiked down Uncle Tom's Trail and really liked it. Lots of steps but not too bad. In fact, there was a gentleman with one leg doing the trip with crutches. We along with 12 year-old son also did the Old West Cookout from Mammoth and really enjoyed it. This was on July 8 and it was freezing. A huge rain storm blew in and thank goodness we had taken our ski jackets and jeans!! One of our best memories of Yellowstone was reading and playing games in front of the huge rock fireplace in the lobby. So cozy. Have a great trip! We still are talking about ours a year later. Lynda |
Thanks, Lyn. Realize you're returning a favor, but you are also helping us all out! :)
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SpeedBuggy,
Just reread the posts and saw yours regarding Lone Star Geyser. We did this hike and, although we had to wait 2 hours for the eruption, it was well worth the wait. The walk is rather long, but cool and very flat. The wait for the eruption was rather hot since it is not as wooded as the trail, but, oh my, what a site. I have pictures of it blowing into the air with a rainbow behind it. Of course, it was our first geyser, but we would do it again in a heartbeat. If you have access to bikes, that would be the ideal way to go. Just make sure you take a book or something in case there is a long wait; although, you can hike on into the countryside, but we didn't have any bug repellant and the bugs about drove us crazy. They weren't too bad as long as we stayed out in the open in the heat, but the slightest move to the trees, and on into the countryside, etc. and they were all over you. Make sure you have repellant with you. By the way, the eruption will begin with starts and fits and you'll think, "Is that all there is?" But just wait it out and you will be well rewarded. |
Link, I don't know if you've already done your trip, but Signal Mtn lodge has 2 TVs. One is in the bar, and the other in a lounge in the registration building. We just returned from our YNP/GTNP trip and had 2 nights at SML. Our 2-room cabin was fantastic. The front room, as well as our side porch, looked out over jackson Lake. I'd been trying to get a Lakeview room, couldn't, but we were thrilled with our cabin-not rustic by our standards, (although we'd just come from 2 terrific nights in the frontier cabins at Tower/Roosevelt.
Thanks to all of you and your postings, and your list, BayouGal, we did do the Jenny Lake, Hidden Falls, Inspiration Point walk. We were rewarded with 2 separate sightings of black bear and one bear cub up a tree, not 10 feet from the walking path. The guide books said the additional hike up Cascade Canyon, LynTom, was steep and strenuous, and long, so we opted out. Mistake? But, I was also told that there was a bull moose right in that Cascade Canyon. This was a couple of days ago. Caution: as the bison are in their rutting and mating season now, and were aggressive in YNP,and about one angry second away from our car, Sept is the rutting/mating season for moose. Be careful not to get close to bull moose then. For another hike not mentioned; YNP, South Rim coupled with Ribbon Lake/Clear Lake. This 4-5 mile loop begins at Wapiti Lake Picnic Area (similar to Uncle Tom mentioned above). It climbs up and then along the South Rim, MUCH less crowded than the North Rim, goes to the other side of the Artist Point parking lot where you pick up Ribbon Lake trail, wends its way through a moonscape wasteland of bubbling mudpots, that you can get as close to as you care, around a lilypadded lake, then follow Clear Lake trail to a beautiful lake. When you come to a Y in the road, which has been knocked down constantly by wandering bison, go straight. You'll walk up and down through a beautiful, flower strewn meadow til you reach your car at Wapiti trailhead. The trip is a delight of contrasts, with surprises awaiting you at every turn. Lost Lake, which starts behind the Tower/Roosevelt Lodge, is another climb up to a beautiful lilypad lake, great for picnicing if you bring your mosquito repellent.There are waterfalls back there too, and yellow bellied marmot. I'll also throw in the hike at Mammoth, Hoodoo Trail. This climbs up the ridge of a mtn to a spot tht looks as though giants have been playing with gigantic boulders as though they were no more than pebbles to be tossed up in the air. The trail continues to another sight, or you can double back. A word about the fires. My DH and i had been to YNP some 26 years ago before the fires. What happened is that otherwise tree-enclosed roads have now given way to exposed valleys and more dramatic vistas. And with the rich soil deposited by the burned trees, more vegetation has been able to thrive, and so the wildlife is more abundant. With the scorching temp of the fires, the lodgepole pine could release their seeds, hence the new growth also apparent in these 20 years. Two more books to recommend, besides the Fommers are Yellowstone Day Hikes by Anderson and Exploring the Yellowstone Backcountry by Bach. Both have ideas of trails, length, difficulty, and in the case of Day Hikes, marvelous pictures. |
Wow! Great information! Thanks soxgirl and Lynda - we all really appreciate your helpful posts! :)
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Really appreciate all the great information for my upcoming trip. Thanks so much!
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Great info!
Bookmarking for later... |
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