Charleston/HiltonHead/Savannah
 

Hello all...
My friend and I are traveling to New Orleans next week and staying at the W French Quarter for three nights.(any thing we should know?)Then 2 nights at the Charleston Place Hotel in Charleston.(worth the money?) Next we are booked one night each at the Westin Hilton Head and in Savannah. My long overdue question is, I fear that is not enough time in Savannah and maybe we should skip Hilton Head all together? We are mostly interested in fabulous food and wine and seeing unique cities with culture and history...I have read the extensive posts and have found good restaurant and touring recommendations in all 3 places, but does anyone have anything we ABSOLUTELY cannot miss? We are willing to spend as much $$$ as we need to have a very memorable vacation.
Thank You, Sarah

Sarahjaneb,
Charleston Place Hotel is elegant, personally I thought it was worth the money. Savannah and Charleston are both extremely charming, you will find plenty of charm, culture, and especially history in both. And great restaurants - my favorites in Charleston are Poogan's Porch and Sticky Fingers, and Boathouse at Breach Inlet, but there are many others. For me, Hilton Head does not begin to measure up, but that's just my opinion.

Just spent three nights in Charleston and two in Savannah (with a night in Beufort in between.) We liked Charleston much better than Savannah and agreed that our two nights in Savannah were just about fine.

In Charleston we would recommend Hank's for great seafood, High Cotton and Magnolia's for great dinners. The bar at High Cotton is a great place to go after dinner--jazz and a very congenial crowd. Also ate at McCrady's and were disappointed but it may have been an off night. In savannah we ate at the Old Pink House and found it stuffy and overrated. I'm sure there are better places in Savannah. Have a great time.

Thank you so very much for your speedy replies...This is the most amazingly helpful group of members. I will still be open to any other sugggestions...

hey guy....definately skip hilton head. It is a pretty but "plastic" town. Spend more time in Savannah. I am from Savannah and I can tell you now you will be enchanted by the city. Post again if you want more specific info.

definately post again in you want restaurant/pub ideas. also if you want to spend one day/night doing the tourist thing and one day night doing the "real" savannah experience..post I'll give you the "down low" on the "low country"
Have Fun either way!!

You definitely can't go wrong with Charleston and Savannah, and I second the votes for Beaufort -- at least for part of a day. However, I wouldn't rule out Hilton Head, either. Your trip sounds like a whirlwind, and you might appreciate a day of "down time" on the beach or tennis court or golf course. Lots of dining options in Hilton Head as well -- we had a fabulous dinner at Red Fish this spring. They focus on innovative preparations of seafood, with a Latin flair, and have an extensive wine list; reservations are a must.

I don't understand the comment of HH being a "plastic" town. It's not a town at all. It's a collection of beachfront resorts and very little else.

HH is a totally diff experience from Charleston/Savannah. I never take my husband to HH 'cause he can't appreciate doing nothing. Unless you golf, HH is for sunning, playing in the ocean, sleeping on the beach, drinking frozen stuff on the pool deck, and maybe a little bike riding (and I mean on the sidewalk, like a little kid riding) if you get energetic. No sightseening at all. No shopping. Just "time to turn over and get another Pina Colada".

I agree with the consensus thus far, NO, Charleston and Savannah are more similar cities and HH is a different type of place.
I think on your first visit to Savannah I think you could enjoy two nights there. I would skip HH.

I love the Westin in Savannah as well as Charleston Place in Charleston! At the Weston, ask for either an upper floor or Club level facing the river. The site of the tankers eye level is mind blowing.

The only downfall (for me) of the Westin is the water taxi. I could never quite catch it and always had to wait for the next one.

The only downfall of Charleston Place is that it is too close to great shopping! Spent too much money. Make sure you go to Bob Ellis Shoes but be prepared to drop $$$$.

This is the best...I am getting so very excited for my trip! I would love more specific info on Savannah. The "real" Savannah experience as opposed to the tourist thing sounds perfect. A couple of pubs would be helpful as well.(The same for Charleston) We really just want to eat and drink and take it all in. Being from California, we are starving for a bit of the South especially the food and history.
At the Charleston Place, we are staying on the Club Level and I am hoping it is worth it, and I will try to get Club Level at the Westin Savannah. I really appreciate all of your help and fantastic suggestions ~ Sarah

Tommy Condon's in Charleston (www.tommycondons.com) is my all time favorite pub. It is an Irish pub but has lots of lowcountry flare. The location (Church Street, Downtown) is wonderful and the outside eating area is even better. They run ceiling fans pretty much all the time and it is covered so if it is raining you can still feel like you are outside. My husband and I sit and watch people walking and taking carriage tours while relaxing with a drink. Their she crab soup and shrimp grits are delicious.

Have fun!

Sarah, rent Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil, The Prince of Tides, Forrest Gump, The Big Chill, and Bagger Vance. They were all filmed in either Charleston, Savannah, and the low country. Also, some John Travolta film that has to do with military but I can't remember the name of it.

When you go to Hilton Head, make sure you get in the ocean. Our water warms up to a bathwater 85 degrees in the summer.

In HH, I love The British Open Pub. It is great and cheap. Check out SNOB (Slightly North of Broad), Magnolias, and Carolinas in Charleston.

LiteSpeed Chick...that is what I meant by it being a plastic town. Actually there are a lot of residential neighborhoods all throughout HH. There are also several schools. It is a town. But there is really nothing there unique about it. that is why it is plastic

It's me again...
Sorry to bug, but the Westin in Savannah is sold out for one of the nights we will be there. If money were no object, is there a hotel in Savannah that we absolutely can't miss? With only a couple of nights there I want to really have a memorable time.
Again...this is the best group of people with the best information!!!!!!! I am truly impressed.

Sarah..you probably will enjoy a tour. but don't go on too many. Just grab a drink of your choice in a plastic cup and pick up a walking map. I am a bartender on Tybee Beach @ The Grill Beachside...stop by.my name is Kevin. As for shellfish the best is The Crab Shack on the way to tybee. As for southern "home" cooking. go to the lady and sons but get a reservation the day before you plan to dine. Garribaldi's is great for italian. Tubby's Tank house is a great place to get a bite and a drink and people watch along the savannah river. You definately have to get a slice of Vinnie Van Go Go's Pizza. As for pubs. My fav is The Rail Pub on Congress. also on congress O'Connells Pub, Mercury Lounge are cool and The Bar Bar in City Market. And Savannah Blues for great live music. post again with more specific ques

The Hyatt across the river is my favorite place to stay!

Thanks (Go Travel), the Hyatt looks nice...I will book that. Thank you also for the Charleston Place nod, I was worried that we made the wrong choice, now I can't wait!

Kevin, my friend Dawn and I will definately stop by the bar for a drink...we are in Savannah Sun and Mon 6/15 & 6/16 Do you work then? ~Sarah

Sarajaneb...have you thought about a B&B instead? If you are going for another hotel, I'd definitely do the Hyatt, in fact, their location is far and away better than the Westin (which I otherwise love and think is beautiful). Being across the river, even if it is a lovely hotel, I would think would be a pain in the neck. If you are driving, you take your life in your hands, too, making a left turn from the Westin to get onto the bridge!! Westin is the new boy on the block and I do love their decor--just not their location. For B&B's you've got Gastonian, Foley House (on very pretty Chippewa Square), Ballastone, Kehoe House...just running off the creme de la creme. It might be a nice change from hotel living. (listen to me, a hotelier's wife! :) )

You'll love Charleston Place. We've stayed on their Club level.. and had a really lovely large room. Nice appetizers and wine in the evening. Terrific location too.

Crab Shack is my favorite for seafood too, blueaguave. Anytime we went to the beach at Tybee by the way, we went to "your" beach and did it often enough to have parking passes. Only ate at your place once, and that was in it's very very early stages. Have no idea what it is like now.

GoTravel, in another thread you were talking about drinking with some dentists, fire chief, police chief and bar owner etc and I was ticking off in my head which bar it would be. Here's my list of likely possibilities, based primarily on which bar the owner is most often seen with his customers. Three are in a dead heat for winner...Malones, Kevin Barry's, and Spankys. Beyond those 3, I couldn't guess. We always went to Malones to watch Texas Tech football games, however we began to notice a trend--they lost if we watched, they won if we didn't, so we stopped going. :D

Oliveoyl,
It sounds like you have great suggestions! I have been in the hotel business also, so I am sort of spoiled...we are on the Club Level at Charleston place, so thanks for your recommendation. If you are ever in Carmel, CA come and stay at a boutique resort/winery that I work for, it is beautiful. Thanks again.

Chances are it wasn't malones. I hang out there a fair amount...(I live there during football season) Spanky's a good possibility. A lot of area influence hangs out at pinkie masters sometime. SarahJane-I will most likely be working one of those days. when you come on the island you will have a sharp right curve onto butler ave. (the strip of sorts)we are about a 1/4 mi. down the road after the curve on the left. It is called Beachside Colony Condos. You come in the restaurant and walk straight through to the deck bar. You can't see the deck bar from the road. If you pop in I'll be able to give you some more advice about SAV.
OliveOyl-It's come along way. The Grill is in its 5th summer. I worked there two summers ago and it was alright. I took last summer off and I decided to go back this summer..there were alot of changes. It is really nice now.

Sorry to contradict GoTravel, who always gives great advice, but PLEASE don't rent Prince of Tides (the movie). Read the book. It's one of my all-time favorites and I think it really conjures the beauty & magic of the lowcountry. I can tell you are excited about your trip, but reading Prince of Tides (you've got to kill time on the plane, right?) will really get you going.

The movie is icky and will ruin the book for you.

BTW: Think McCrady's wine bar in Chars. since you have a wine interest.

GoTravel-The military movie filmed in SAV with John Travolta is called "The General's Daughter" Some of it was filmed across the street from my house. So in the morning and afternoon there were limos, film trucks, and military vehicles driving up and down my street. I walked down to where they were filming to see if they needed extras...no luck..oh well

Litespeed, I agree the book Prince of Tides is much better than the movie as Pat Conroy is my favorite writer. I think it is the preface of the book where he describes the sun setting over the marsh in such detail you can see it! Beautiful prose. The reason I suggested renting the flicks so sarah can see the towns she wil be visiting.

OO and blueguave, both wrong. It was McDonough's. I think that is the spelling. It was a bizzare evening.

Oh sarahjaneb, you're going to all the places we love best! A good thing to do in Charleston is to visit the house museums. One thing to stroll by those glorious mansions, and quite another to go inside and hear the stories. I would second going to Beaufort on your way down to Savannah. Don't take the highway. Use the back road and you'll see all the shimmering marshlands. Beaufort is a charming town and there's a small church with a cemetary attached to it--during the Civil War they use the tombstones as operating tables! Savannah has an entirely different feel to it than Charleston, so in no way will you feel like you are repeating the same experience. The only common thread is that they're both old, historic, and utterly captivating. If you want a great authentic pub/hamburger joint kind of place, try the Chrystal Palace Beer Parlor in Savannah. You may have to check up on the name, but I think I've gotten it straight. We ate there years ago and I still remember how good my burger was. Have a wonderful trip: I guarantee you'll come back time and time again. (Same goes for New Orleans!) Oh, and Hilton Head...what Hilton Head????

Litespeed Chick,
Thanks, I have read The Prince of Tides and saw the movie, and you are right. It has been so long, I will probably read it again on the plane. Good suggestion~ I am in the wine business so will find McCradys when we get there!

Uh-oh...sorry, it was North Beach Grill!! When you started giving directions I knew we were talking about different places. There was a restaurant/bar being torn down just was we were leaving...bar on right, restaurant on left, as you walked in, and patio on beach outback. Could it have gone up there? As a bartender, I wonder if you know someone named Jimmy Kehoe..always a regular on the beach bar scene..and in the aforementioned bar anytime we were there.

Another good (or I found it fascinating) low country book by Pat Conroy was the River Is Wide. It roughly chronicles his teaching experience at a one room schoolhouse on Daufuskie Island off Hilton Head. At the time, it was inhabited by Gullah descendants, and as one might imagine, his teaching style wasn't exactly conventional, but it was innovative and effective, at least according to his evaluation. He eventually lost the job...also not a huge surprise as he doesn't fit well into any molds people want to make for him. If you go to Hilton Head, there are boats going over to Daufuskie (no bridges) from Harbourtown. It was gorgeous when we went (8-10 years ago) and development was slow to catch on so you still might still find it a worthwhile trip. We named our boat "Beach Music"...two guesses where that came from?

Sarajaneb--Lucky you! What a gorgeous area to live in. That's one of the few places I'd trade places for anytime. IF they ever had vacancies, we can stay at Highlands Inn and Hyatt Monterey at no cost. IF. We have done Monterey once before they owned Highlands Inn.

dln, Crystal Beer Parlor is no more. Too bad. It was an institution.

Blueaguave...what is the latest on Mrs. Wilkes. Are they going to reopen?

Augh!!! I hate hearing this! First the Chrystal Beer Palace, now Mrs. Wilkes? We ate there only two summers ago and had not only a great Southern meal, but such fun talking to visitors from all over the world. Is this only a temporary closing?

As far as I know they are open. They closed after Sema Wilkes died and I think they were closed for about a week after the funeral. I think her family is running the restaurant.
And yes I do know Mr. Kehoe. He's a vodka/tonic in a tall glass man. nice guy. He always is at the grill. And don't worry even my friends mistake where I work for North Beach Grill. Even though they are no where near each other. Mr. Kehoe is always at The Grill Beachside where I work.

yeah OO. Dark wood bar on right and tables on left..then the deck out back on the beach with a pool on the right

As of March, Mrs. Wilkes family was still debating re-opening, or that's what we were hearing on this board. They always closed for the month of January, but this year they didn't reopen. :( That would be a real loss--you are right, dln, another institution! OK, blueaguave, you have a mission: to find out if they are up and running again! It sounded promising that they would but as late as March, it was still going back and forth.

Next time you see Jimmy, would you say hello for my husband please? (McDaniel), GM of the Hyatt before current one. They were active in several groups together and we all had a nice trip to Norfolk with his Navy group when the USS Savannah was decommissioned, with a contingent from the city going up on a Navy plane from Hunter. Really neat experience. This was in Susan Weiner's reign, not Floyd Adams, so a while back. He is a genuinely nice guy--we will always miss our friends from there!

ok OO. I will make a few calls and hopefully have some good news for all of you fried okra and fried chicken and sweet tea fans!! And I'll will probably see Mr. Kehoe tomorrow afternoon so I'll pass the message along for you

Yes...Mrs. Wilkes is back open. I called my Mom. Mom knows best right? She said her boss took his daughter to lunch there last week. My mom was also under the impression they were closed but now we know they were open at least as of last week. Sigh of relief for all of you who were wondering!!

All of you have gotten me so intrigued about Mrs. Wilkes...is is going to have to be my first stop right before drinks at The Grill. Keep posting as I am living vicariously though your sharing...

Terrific news blueaguave!! Thanks so much for checking. Yes...we Moms know all, hear all, see all...and don't you forget it! :) I love all their food(once a year it's ok) but will have to pass on sweet tea. No-no-no can do. Although Mrs Wilkes was in the dining room almost until she went into hospice, I think the operation has been run hands-on by the whole family for some time so hopefully there won't be any noticeable change. Some things should never be touched and that's probably one.

Thanks so much for passing on my husband's regards to Jimmy too. Glad to hear he is holding down the fort on Tybee still. We'll be up again before too long. It's only about a 5 hour drive...just need to make some time.

sarahjaneb...you won't regret it. She's only open for lunch and breakfast, and only Monday through Friday. No reservations...you go and stand in line and those people you are in line with (it moves) are the people you will be dining with at the family style tables. Fixed menu all good old southern cooking...they bring out the dishes and set out several per table and refill just as soon as necessary. You will not leave hungry. Mrs. Wilkes used to start the meal with a prayer but don't know about that now. Be aware you are expected to bring your dishes to the kitchen at the end of the meal. It's fun and with any luck, you'll meet some interesting travellers and locals. It is frequented by both. You'll find it on Jones St and don't snack on anything before you go!

OK...you have a mission too if you don't mind: a trip report when you return?? Would love to read all about your impressions.

I will promise to deliver a fantastic trip report...although I will be busy on the treadmill working off all of the amazing food and cocktails I will certainly overindulge in~ This posting has been a lifesaver and will take all of you and your experiences on my trip to NOLA, SC, and GA. Truly lucky to have found you...

Don't Worry OO. I'll break in Sarah proper like.
As for Mrs. Wilkes. That is one thing you will miss is not being able to speak with her. She was the nicest woman but don't let that fool you..She wasn't that innocent!! She was the funniest/wittiest woman I have ever had the pleasure of speaking with. With a southern dialect like buttah. She will be missed but her name will live on for years to come through her family.

^Just like an elephant...Savannah never forgets!

OO-Mr. Kehoe is one of the several regulars who come in for happy hour at the grill. And this weekend I get off on friday @ 5:00 which will be right around the time he arrives. So I'll be able to have a drink with him and ask him about Ya'lls travels together. In the past..he has always told me some great stories after a couple vodka tonics..I'll post tomorrow and let you know what he has to say Goodnight ooopss actually goodmorning!

still can't decide b'tween charleston and savannah, and this thread is't making it any easier! it all sounds so great.