Boston Literary Touring Advice
 

I am planning a trip with my family (2 adults, 2 teens) to the east coast next summer. We were planning on spending a few days in Boston and then visiting some of the literary sites in the surrounding area -- Walden Pond, some authors homes, Salem... (My husband is an English teacher.)

I'd love some advice as which places you'd recommend and if there are any I haven't thought of. Also, would you recommend renting a car and doing day trips or leaving Boston and staying elsewhere for these visits. I'm thinking of a day in the Concord area. How much time is needed for Salem?

Thanks!

Walden Pond is about 30-40 minutes from Boston. There is a parking lot, but on a hot summer day it is overflowing with people parking there to use small public beach at the Pond. The rest of the surrounding area to the Pond is still relatively tranquil and years ago it was possible to park along the street and wander in - any of these places that I know of are now marked with no parking and towing signs, so if it is a nice day you will need to arrive early. Do not know of any public transportation that would get you there.

If you are into history you could combine this - still as a day trip - with a stop at Revolutionary War sites in Lexington and/or Concord.

Salem is also a day trip, although you could take train from Boston if you prefer. As far as how much time for Salem, it depends on what else you want to see other than houses. Peabody Essex Museum is wonderful and teens might be into all the witch stuff. A day would do it, unless you really want to go into depth at one of these places. You could spend a night or 2 along the North Shore of Boston and add a beach day to that part of the trip, depending on how long your entire trip would be.

I'd definitely spend a day in both Concord and Salem.

Be sure to visit the Louisa May Alcott house in Concord; it's still called Orchard House. The Wayside tours and RW Emerson house are supposed to be worthwhile, too, although I've not been in. Visit the Sleepy Hollow cemetary for some prestigous grave sites. There is a wonderful old inn downtown for lunch called the Colonial.

Hawthorne's House of Seven Gables in Salem is excellent, and has a beautiful view from the backyard. I also like the narration in the historical presentation at the Salem Witch Museum. (NOT the Witch Dungeon or the With House.) The Witch House is pretty dull; just a historical home of some long-forgotten governor. You'll see plenty of that at the other sites. I agree that the Peabody Essex Museum is worth a stop, but it doesn't have much to do with literature. The Grapevine or the Hawthorne Hotel would be good lunch stops.

Or, if you have a car, you could lunch/dinner on traditional fried seafood in Essex. Lots of choices!

If you do have a car, I recommend a drive to Gloucester if only to see the Hammond Castle Museum. Former home of an eccentric inventor, the pipe organ, art, and views are the draw here. Really unique.

If you decide to leave Boston for these day trips, you could base yourself on Rt 128 between Burlington and Peabody; it's about half way between either Salem and Concord.

Good Luck with your plans. Have a great trip!

Hi Kathryn -

Maybe you would like to visit Lowell to see Kerouac's stomping grounds. Many of the places he wrote about are still very recognizable. As with Salem, you could do this trip by taking a train from North Station. I also recommend Orchard House and the Minuteman Visitor's Center. Longfellow's Wayside Inn is in Sudbury and still operational. Across the street is a beautiful place for a picnic (you would need a car for this particular trip also).

These are great suggestions - thank you. Anybody else?

Definitely spend a day in Concord. The Orchard House (Louisa May Alcott's home) has already been recommended, and I heartily agree. The Emerson house has tours Thursday - Sundays. The Wayside, home for a time to both Hawthorne and Margaret Sidney (of the Five Little Peppers fame), owned by the Minuteman National Historic Park and open mid- April through October, has tours every day except Wednesday. All three of these historic houses are within close proximity, so you can park once and walk to all three. The Concord Museum is also very close by. The Old Manse, home of Hawthorne and his bride Sophia when they were were first married (subject of "Mosses from an Old Manse") is about a mile from these, and has tours every day. It's right next to The Old North Bridge, site of the first battle of the American Revolution, which is also interesting to visit. Sleepy Hollow Cemetery has "Authors Ridge", where several of the famous local authors are buried close to one another.

The commuter rail line goes from Boston's North Station to Concord Center, so it is possible to visit Concord without a car, as long as you don't mind doing a lot of walking over 3 or 4 miles to see all of the sites.

Walden Pond is about a mile or slightly more from the center of town, so you could walk there if you were so inclined- parking is difficult there in the summer, especially on weekends, and kind of expensive, I think (maybe $10? not sure). It's a pleasant walk around the pond, which takes about 30 - 45 minutes - you can visit the site of Thoreau's original cabin, and a replica next to the parking lot - but the fencing they've put up to control erosion on the trails does detract quite a bit from the experience (a sad but necessary measure).

Your English teacher husband will probably love Concord - I remember one of my high school English teachers in Kentucky describing Concord to me, and thinking how much I'd love to visit it someday - never dreaming that I would end up living and raising my children here! I love it, and feel that it is a very special place.

You would probably enjoy eating dinner at Lomgfellow's Wayside Inn in Sudbury - they claim to be the oldest continuously operating inn in the U.S., and it is the settimg for Longfellow's"Tales of a Wayside Inn". We like to go there for special occassions - the food is quite good (request one of the older. historic rooms if available). They have some of the original rooms and furnishings on display. If you get there before dark, you can see the picturesque grist mill and waterfall, and the "Mary's schoolhouse", supposedly where Mary and her lamb of nursury rhyme fame went to school (I take this with a big grain of salt).

In Cambridge, you can tour Longfellow's home, not far fron Harvard Square - I've never done that, it's on my list to do someday.

The House of the Seven Gables in Salem is quite interesting, I think you'll enjoy that - especially the secret staircase!

As I said, you could do a nice day trip to Concord, but if you wanted to come and spend a couple of days, I've heard that the Colonial Inn is a nice place to stay. You could rent a canoe from the South Bridge Boat House and spend a couple of hours on the river (Thoreau wrote quite a lot about that) - your teens might enjoy that. The Liberty Ride is a trolley that runs between various sites in Lexington and Concord, where you can get off and on at your convenience (I don't know how often it runs) - that might be worth checking out.

Have a wonderful time, and let me know if you have more specific questions.

Thank you for your wonderful help. I can't imagine planning a trip without Fodorites! I am getting very excited about our visit. It sounds like we'll need a full day in Concord and we'll visit Salem as well.

Thanks again!

Sara, what a great description of your wonderful Concord! Definitely worth saving for prospective visitors. I was there again last spring after an absence of quite a few years. I think, KathrynT, that you should plan AT LEAST a day there if not more.

There is quite a collection of relatively inexpensive chain hotels at the intersection of two major interstates in nearby Waltham that your family might consider for your Concord visit, or even for the drive around the edges of the metro area to Salem, and it's an easy drive out of Boston to Waltham. I got a very good deal from Hotwire at the Westin, which is quite plush and offers a beautiful view over the hills from the restaurant and many rooms. There are several less expensive chains represented at the same interchange.

In addition to its incredible literary history, Concord is just one of the most beautiful, charming towns I've seen anywhere, great for driving or walking around.

This time, I took the Emerson house tour and visited the Concord Museum for the first time. They are right across the street from each other and easy to combine in one visit, both very worthwhile. Both have interesting and important Thoreau artifacts, too.

I know from past visits how interesting the Alcott House and Old Manse tours are too. Again, one parking space is all that's necessary for both the Old Manse and Concord Bridge, the latter well worth it as a beauty spot as well as a historical one, and to see its noble statue and poetic inscription which, like its subject, has been "heard round the world."

Kathryn, if you and your husband are Thoreau fans, don't be dissuaded from going to Walden Pond. While there looks to be heavy recreational use of one beach, I still enjoyed a peaceful and beautiful visit there. The bookstore filled with rare Thoreau and Emerson works and gifts, the cabin replica, and the more secluded actual cabin site (at least a twenty minute walk from the parking lot and the crowded beach,) with its stones brought there by visitors from around the world, are all musts.

If your teens are into hiking and lakes at all, even if not Thoreau, they will like spending time here too.

Although it was a sunny spring (admittedly not summer) day, the parking areas were quite large, although across the road from the Pond and not obstrusive, and I found a space easily. The advice to come early on a Summer day is probably still good, though.

I spent nearly a half day at the Pond and could easily have stayed longer, and that's another reason why I'd recommend literature lovers budget at least a day and a half for Concord.

Concord sounds just lovely. I think it will be one of the highlights of the trip. If my husband hadn't causally metioned it, and you Fodorites hadn't been so helpful, we probably wouldn't have considered it. I'm printing out all your suggestions -- thanks again.

This English major loved Concord. After spending a few days in Boston, it was a very nice change of pace. We toured Orchard House and the Wayside, and went to the cemetary, Old North Bridge, and Walden Pond.

Stop at the visitor center for a guide to homes that are open. Many closed at 4:00, so plan on an early start. We were at Walden on a beautiful weekday in July, and did not find it very crowded.

Our guide at the Wayside put it best. Two revolutions started in Concord. The American Revolution at the old North Bridge, and a revolution of thought with Emerson, Thoreau, Alcott, and others. (Bronson Alcott, Louisa May's father, was very influential). A lot of the ideas that are so much a part of the American conscience were formed here. Definately a must-see.

Don't miss the visitor's center in Salem, it's like a museum itself. Across from it is a shopping mall with a food court, the Thai restaurant is great, the orange duck there was a wonderful inexpensive meal.

If your kids are early teens they may like the Pirate museum. If older... it's more for children.

You've received great suggestions. There is a guide called Literary Tours of Greater Boston. The History Collaborative sponsors guided and self-guided tours.

Check out this link: http://www.lit-trail.org/

Enjoy!

CW

I got a book from my local library; I can't remember the exact name, and it was several years old - something along the lines of "literary guide to new england." It was nice to read before the trip. It gave information on some areas I wouldn't have known about otherwise. I just searched our library's on-line catalog, and I couldn't find it, but there are some similar titles out there.

It's a bit old, but you might want to look for the book "No Castles on Main Street" -- by Stephanie Kraft. I think she goes all over the country, but certainly she includes much of New England.

One of my favorite stopping places is Longfellow's Wayside Inn, which I believe is actually in Sudbury but not that far from Concord and all the other sites mentioned. Despite a little tourist-ing of it, the Grist Mill and the Mary-Martha Chapel are pretty and you can have an atmospheric (if not exactly 4 star) lunch at the Inn itself. http://www.wayside.org/

I don't suppose you'd consider Robert Parker among your literary icons?

I spent a couple of days in Salem one summer and did the Witch Museum which the family really enjoyed but the best for us was the Whale watching trip on the second day. We must have been close to around 10 whales some right beside the boat. It was amazing and all information given by a member of a scientific team who oversee the trips to make sure the Whales are not adversley affected by the boats.
We toured up to Freeport and stayed a couple of days them went onto Lincon in the White Mountains for a couple of nights then down to Ogunquit via Conway.
Whatever you decide I`m sure you will enjoy your trip!

Oh dear, so many wonderful suggestions -- we may need to move east to do everything we'd like to do (ha!) We love to whale watch and hadn't even considered such an activity for this trip. What kinds of whales did you see?

I agree with all the suggestions posted thus far but wanted to add a tidbit. The lantern tour at the House of Seven Gables was very fun and added to the eeriness of the site. Also just so you don't reveal your tourist status the incredible Peabody Essex museum is pronounced Pea-buh-DEE Essex. Definitely a don't miss spot.I also found the cemetery in Concord, the final resting place of so many famous authors was an incredible experience. Have a great time!

sue, are you sure? I've only ever heard PEE-biddy.

Woops, almost Suehoff --

It would be "Peebiddee" or even "Peebb'dee," with the accent on the first syllable in either case (not the last syllable; and also it's not "Pea-boddy").

I can tell you that this Revolutionary War buff absolutely LOVED Concord! When I was in Boston I made it an absolute to get to Concord to see the site where the Revolution actually started. (Fighting, that is) Took the commuter train to Concord - not sure exactly what I was expecting to find, just a bridge maybe?? The train platform was just that, a platform. I wandered around the corner and found a travel agent, of all things!

I told one of the agents that I was already where I was but that I didn't know where what I wanted to see was. She was so kind! She asked if I knew the literary history of Concord, and my dumb look told her "no." She laid out a map and marked where the bridge was, Emerson house, Alcott house, and Hawthorne house. I had not thought to rent a car or anything, and she assured me I could walk, if I'd a mind to. It was a gorgeous spring day, neither too warm nor too cold.

It was a long walk out to the bridge, but worth it! We toured the Emerson house, which I feel is a must. Also, the Alcott house - you can truly see where Louisa May Alcott got her inspiration for "Little Women"! I kept expecting to see Meg, Jo, Beth, and Amy come out from behind a corner!

The town itself is quite lovely. Lots of homes lovelingly restored to the period in which they were built. A great little restaurant (The Colonial, perhaps??) in the center of town that was just so cozy with great food. An interesting downtown to poke through stores. We had only expected to spend an hour or so there (how long does it take to see a bridge??), and ended up spending the entire day. By the time we got back to Boston, we were exhausted! (But after all that walking, we could eat anything we wanted!)

I loved Boston - beautiful city - and look forward to going there again one day. But when I do, I plan to spend a couple of days in Concord. It is just too pretty a town not to miss. And it has such a rich history encompassing the Revolutionary War, the Civil War, and literary genius. Besides the history, it just looks like what you would think a small New England town would look like. I thought it was thoroughly charming! (Have we all sold you, yet? ;) )

Have fun!

Hi KathrynT,
You asked which Whales we saw. It was Humpback Whales. Which I think are one of the most spectacular. Some diving and the huge flukes (tails) disappearing last as they went under. Others breaching (coming right out of the water).
A mix of mothers and calfs and we even saw a Harbour Seal who took a rest on the pontoon of the boat as it was miles out from the harbour but the guide said it was following the whales for the good feeding areas. Time of year was July.
Have fun! (Wish it was me!)

Thank you, seahatch. We have enjoyed seeing humpback off of Monterey, CA and in Alaska. Aren't they amazing? Do you remember which tour boat you went with?

Hi KathrynT,
I think it was the m/v Super Ranger which left from Pickering Wharf. Have a look at web site for info and photo of boat.
whaleguide.com/directory/salemwhalewatch.htm

i lived in boston for two years as a student, and never got the chance to make too many trips outside of the city, as i was sans car.

i do remember one day trip via T, however, to the Forest Hills Cemetery, which houses the graves of e.e. cummings, anne sexton, and eugene o'neill. it's gorgeous to walk through, whether or not you find who you're looking for. for more information, check out http://www.foresthillstrust.org.

everyone on this site has been so thorough, but i have to mention that, after visiting all these sites rich with literary history, you're gonna want to go shopping. for books!

i've always loved the trident bookstore and cafe on newbury street in boston, but there are a ton of shops in cambridge - you can find quite the comprehensive listing at http://cambridge.zami.com/Bookstore/A-Z

hope you have a good time. boston is one of my favorite places to be! - steph

I'm so glad to see several people have recommended Orchard House (Home of the Alcotts) in Concord, as I work there part time giving tours, and it really is a very, very special place. You can see more on the web site at:
www.louisamayalcott.org

Sadly, however, the Wayside in Concord, just up the road from Orchard House, may not be open this year. Unlike Orchard House, which is operated by a private nonprofit association, the Wayside is under the auspices of the National Park Service, and it's very possible that it will not get funding to reopen this spring. If it is open, its hours will likely be very much curtailed. Even last year, there was often only one person on duty who both sold tickets and gave tours. So if you didn't arrive just at the right time to buy tickets, you couldn't get in.

A very sad commentary on the priorities given to this and other monuments to our national heritage.

Note that the Wayside in Concord (home at various times of both the Alcotts and the Hawthornes) has no relation to Longfellow's Wayside Inn in Sudbury, which is also a delightful place to visit. The name duplication is often is a source of some confusion to visitors from out of town.

If you are traveling on a budget, you might want to consider motels in Bedford, which is the town between Lexington and Concord. It's not as charming as either of those, but it's a perfectly nice town, and the rates tend to be lower.

If you want restaurant suggestions, I can give you the names of a couple of good places in the area.

Nonnafelice,

We will have to look for you at Orchard House! It sounds like a wonderful place to visit. Yes, I'd love restaurant recommendations. We like almost every type of food (as long as it is good) and can go casual or have the occasional splurge. Thanks!

Hi, Kathryn,

Two restaurants in Concord that I like to recommend are La Provence (mostly a lunch place; closes at 7 pm) and Serafina's. They are slightly away from the center, and both have very good, reasonably priced food. The Colonial Inn in the center of town is also quite good, and with more traditional atmosphere, although a bit on the pricey side.

Come to Orchard House before visiting the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery (where the Alcotts and many other authors are buried) and we can give you a map showing the route to some of the famous gravesites.

Wonderful -- thanks so much!!

When I lived outside of Boston I would bike through Concord and Lexington a lot. I vaguely remember a cycling tour/company that operated in the area. It's a great way to see all of the sights. Does anyone know of this company?

One thing I forgot to mention is that you might want to look into the "Liberty Ride" bus through Lexington and Concord. It's the "hop on hop off" type, so you can get off at any of the museums or sites you especially want to tour and then pick up the next bus to continue. It only runs in the summer and fall, but you can read more about it here:

http://www.tourlexington.us/libertyride.html

To highledge:
I don't know of any cycle touring companies, but there is an off-road bike trail (the Minuteman Bikeway) that runs from Cambridge through Lexington to Bedford. It doesn't go all the way to Concord, but you could ride the back roads over there from Bedford.
http://www.minutemanbikeway.org

I'v been on the bike path and also spent many hours/days on the roads around Concord and Lexington. For some reason I remember a bike tour stopping near waldon pond.