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charliesnickers May 26th, 2004 02:06 PM

Best of Oregon Coast, help please
 
First time in Oregon. Want to go down the coast. Where should we stop and stay? Looking to take in beauty, relax, read, walk. We're kid-free for a week and we're not golfers. Wondering how much time to spend in what sports (how far south do we go?) and leave enough for travel time back up to Portland airport. Weigh in with your favorite restaurants, lodging (nice but not high end) etc. and thanks in advance for your help.

beachbum May 26th, 2004 03:57 PM

Really too bad you're not golfers!

Using Manzanita as your base go north to Cannon Beach, Seaside, and (I'm sure kim will recommend) Astoria. In doing that you'll be going from quiet, relatively non-commercial, to cute, artsy commercial, to cheesy, kitschy commercial, to just regular commercial (fishing, port town/city).

If none of that's your bag, visit and walk the beach at Gearhart, just north of Seaside, taking time for a meal at the restaurant & bakery at the main intersection in "town." The little motel just off the intersection is nice too; a throw-back to a bygone era. Or explore Fort Stevens, a little further north. Another favorite is Ecola State Park, just north of Cannon Beach.

When you're done in the north coast area, I'd suggest just heading south, not looking for another "base." Three Capes Loop is worth the drive, as is a hike to the point at Cape Lookout. It would be fun to spend the night in a cabin there too, but I don't know if they let them go for just one night.

Some might recommend a stop at the Tillamook Cheese Factory, but you probably have cheese and ice cream in the mid-west too. For a more coast experience, try some of our oysters and dungeness crab at any of a number of places you'll see along the way.

One of my favorite coastal hikes is the Cascade Head trail, a few miles north of Lincoln City. The view will take your breath away. A good breakfast spot is the cafe in Otis, a couple miles inland on 18, again just north of Lincoln City. If you end up spending a night in the area, Sylvia Beach Hotel is a good choice.

Then, there's lighthouses, aquariums, sand dunes, and jet boats mentioned in a previous post. I highly recommend the jet boat; it would be a nice change of scenery (you just might get tired of looking at beautiful coastline). Trouble is that the drive from Gold Beach back to Portland is the better part of a day.


jimshep May 26th, 2004 04:27 PM

Highlights of the Oregon Coast include:

 Ecola State Park,
 Cannon Beach (Stephanie Inn is the best, but expensive),
 Newport (Nye Beach area, Elizabeth Street Inn has ocean views),
 Yachats (Overleaf Lodge),
 Cape Perpetua area including the Sea Lion Cave,
 Three State Parks near Coos Bay,
 Bandon,
 Gold Beach, and
 Brookings (there is a Best Western right on the water).

Enjoy.

kimamom May 26th, 2004 04:36 PM

The best part of the Oregon Coast, is the north coast! We stayed in this area for a month one summer and just loved it.

I don't know how much of a foodie you are, but the best places are in Astoria, IMO. Fulio's, The Silver Salmon Grille, Cannery Cafe, the Ship Inn are all wonderful. Astoria is definitely worth a day trip, about thirty minutes from CB. The Maritime Museum, Fort Clatsop, the Astor Column, riding the trolley along the waterfront,will be a great way to spend the day. www.oldoregon.com

You may want to check out the Columbia River Day Spa if you like that kind of thing. It's the nicest spa on the northern coast, located right by the Hotel Elliott. (Astoria's new luxury boutique hotel.)

I would also recommend going over the bridge, (don't be scared, it's fun once you're on it!) to explore a little of the WA coast. Stop & have lunch at Pauly's Bistro in Ilwaco and for fine dining, the Shoalwater at the Shelburne Inn. (www.shoalwater.com)

If you travel north, you will come to a funky place called Oysterville where they farm the Willapa bay oysters. We attended a Jazz & Oyster festival there that is really fun.

If you're into theatre, go to Astoria & see Shanghaied in Astoria. It's a great production and lots of fun. The Liberty Theatre in Astoria is being refurbished and is going into the Historical Register. We attended a fund-raised there in December and saw Pink Martini perform. Check your local Visitor's Guide to see what is currently playing.

If you like art, Valley Bronze is the beautiful new art gallery in Astoria. Also lots of antique shops and Victorian homes. They have a walking tour in the summer, if you like that kind of thing. The Flavel House is also very interesting with lots of history.

Then there's Seaside!!!! Spend an afternoon here walking the prom, feeding the seals, riding the surrey bikes through town. Go to Dooger's for seafood or the Lil' Bayou for cajun. Kalypso for fine dining. Take your camera, Tillamook Head is gorgeous. Go to Avenue U and watch the surfers, it's beautiful over in that area.

In Cannon Beach, go to Ecola State Park and Indian Beach. You will have a short hike down to the ocean, but it's really nice once you're down there.

If you're a movie buff, take a tour of all the movies that have been filmed in Astoria. Kindergten Cop, Goonies, Ninja Turtles, Short Circuit, Free Willy. They are filming one right now there. I wanted to go for the casting call for the extras, but couldn't make it. (ahhhhh) Next time! That should keep you busy for awhile!!! Enjoy!! ***kim*** :) If you like to swim, there is a wonderful Aquatic Center in Astoria where you can swim laps and then relax in the jacuzzi. It's worth a stop by just to check out the mural artwork there. www.swimastoria.com


kimamom May 26th, 2004 04:39 PM

On more thought: if you love wine, you must go to the Shallon Winery in Astoria. The tasting is complmentary and trust me, you will totally get a kick out of the winemaker there.

He makes really unique wine: Cran du Lait, Lemon Meringue Pie, Chocolate-Orange wine. He has been in many recent publications and most recently, the New York Times when they featured Astoria as a major tourist destination. ***kim*** :)

kimamom May 26th, 2004 04:54 PM

Looks like Paul got a website! You can learn more about the winery at www.shallon.com Winerycat, you might enjoy reading about this chocolate-orange wine if you read this!! ***kim***

charliesnickers May 26th, 2004 05:55 PM

You guys are great! Please continue to keep recommending places. I love crab (husband is allergic, we'll pack EPI pen) The Rouge River and Gold beach sound really fun.
Any place to stay in Yachats? Florence? Or
further down? Manzanita is the only reservation so far. If we only made it as far as Cape Perpetua I still think we'd have a wonderful time... How far (to what city area) should we adventure daily from Manzanita before the drive back and forth warrants a change in a lodging location.

Gardyloo May 26th, 2004 08:09 PM

You've got a week, right?

Now I don't know where you've been or haven't been (I know, first time in Oregon) but if you haven't been in the area much, I've just got to weigh in with a major-ish suggested route alteration.

First day, hit the freeway and drive to Grants Pass, around 5 hours south of Portland on Interstate 5. Take US 199 from Grants Pass to Crescent City, CA, another 90 min. to 2 hours. This will take you deep into the Redwoods, which, if you haven't experienced, it's now time to see. Overnight somewhere around Crescent City, Klamath or Trinidad. Nothing fancy in this area, but the big trees are worth foregoing high-end creature comforts for one night.

Then spend a full day exploring the Redwoods area - beaches, various groves, head out to the Lost Coast, have a meal at the Samoa Cookhouse in Samoa (near Eureka), things like that.

Then start heading north. Use the recommendations given - I prefer Gold Beach over Brookings, Bandon over either in the south. Visit the dunes around Florence, the various state parks on the south coast. Don't miss the Heceta Head lighthouse and park just north of Florence - ultimate photo op on the coast.

You can spend four nights on the coast - one south, two middle (Yachats, Newport, whatever) and one north (Tillamook or Cannon Beach) and still have a last night in the Yamhill County wine country to get the salt out of your hair.

I know you didn't ask about Redwoods, and no, they aren't in Oregon. But they're close and they are, IMO, the premier must-see thing on the north Pacific coast.

kimamom May 27th, 2004 07:48 AM

I would stick strictly to the Oregon Cosat this trip. I would do four nights on the north coast, two in the middle and two in the southern.

The February issue of Sunset features the 20 best seaside getaways on the west coast and five of them are featured for Oregon. The Inn @ Manzanita (are you staying there?) The Ocean House B&B in Newport, The Channel House in Depoe Bay, the Sylvia Beach Hotel in Newport and the Sea Quest near Yachats.

I would check out these places, or go to the Sunset website and do a search to see if any of these appeal to you!

In the Daily Astorian, The Bay House in Lincoln City was featured in Coast Weekend as being a wonderful place for fine dining. I would check that place out. ***kim***

beachbum May 27th, 2004 08:49 AM

If it's activity you're into (except golf), the north coast is the place to spend more time. But, I'll differ with kim in that Astoria is far from the best of what the coast has to offer. The central and southern coasts are just as, or more scenic, and, except for Lincoln City area, less commercial. If you're locked into reservations in Manzanita for the first nights, the reverse of Gardyloo's suggested itinerary would be a wonderful trip. Especially since you can do it more leisurely.

You've gotten several lodging recommendations, all good. Google for more. For food, I think it's safe to say that appearances generally are not deceiving. If the restaurant looks like part of a chain, it probably is (Dooger's and Mo's come to mind); food's okay, but nothing special. Personally, I think you'd more enjoy trying interesting looking places that reflect local flavor; my wife and I are rarely disappointed in them.

kimamom May 27th, 2004 09:28 AM

I forgot to mention Tillamook! There is a cheese factory there that you may enjoy touring. It's great to view the cheese-making and you have to sample some Brown Cow Tillamook ice cream! The best on the coast!

I would have at least one meal at the Mo's in Cannon Beach. Here you can view the beautiful Haystack Rock while you dine. The blackened salmon is VERY good, served with a couple of sides. The fries are pretty good here, but the main star is the fresh, fresh, fish!

Norma's Seafood Diner was recently mentioned in Coastal Living as one of the best places for clam chowder. It's located in Seaside, OR.

I differ grealty with BeachBum,the northern part of the coast is the most exciting and scenic, no question. Also so much more to do and see~

We've traveled the coast from Brookings to Astoria many times, and I couldn't wait to get past Newport to "the good stuff!!" LOL

We haven't mentioned the Sea Lion Caves in Florence, which you might enjoy. They have a website. It's really cool to take the elevator down to the caves, just wear some nose plugs!!! ***kim***

kimamom May 27th, 2004 10:00 AM

The website is www.sealioncaves. com you can take the elevator down to the caves on the website to see if this is something you might want to see! ***kim***

charliesnickers May 27th, 2004 10:28 AM

Yes, we do have reservations at the Inn @Manzanita. I will check out the other places mentioned too. It sounds like there is plenty to do and see in the North and Central...
maybe next time in the south. The thought of driving for 5 hours doesn't appeal to me. I look forward to not being rushed or spending too much time in the car. That said, I'm going to start checking out places like The Ocean House B&B in Newport, The Channel House in Depoe Bay, the Sylvia Beach Hotel in Newport and the Sea Quest near Yachats.

one the other hand, am I crazy for not going all the way to Gold Beach? I just can't decide...


kimamom May 27th, 2004 10:44 AM

Yes, plenty to do to keep you busy for the amount of time you have. Oswald West State Park is also worth a look.

Be prepared to hike down a ways, tho. There will be complimentary wheelbarrows for you to haul "your stoff" in down to the ocean. Once you are down there, it's absolutely gorgeous. A beautiful cove and gorgeous scenic, beach. You could easily spend one afternoon just at this spot. ***kim***

charliesnickers May 27th, 2004 11:36 AM

OK! How does this sound: 3 nights in Manzanita, 4 nights in Yachats and one night somewhere on the way back up maybe Newport at Sylvia Beach Hotel. Has anyone heard of Ocean Haven in Yachats?..it looks great too. www.oceanhaven.com ( and it's $40 less a night than Overland). Be honest. I'm open

kimamom May 27th, 2004 11:50 AM

Do you mean the Overleaf Lodge in Yachats? If you're spending four nights here, you better be in a place you'll like/love.

Have you tried the Seaquest? It comes highly recommended in Sunset. wwww.seaq.com Rooms start at $160 here and comes with a breakfast, which I'm sure is VERY good! This would be my first choice in Yachats. ***kim***


Michelle9 May 27th, 2004 12:00 PM

Have just returned from the Coast - had a great time. Spent 3-4 days touring north to south. Scenery in the south (Gold Beach to Brookings) spectacular! Little more touristy in the north. Preferred Cannon Beach over Seaside. Stayed on the Newport Belle (paddle boat) in Newport! It was a hoot! The Fodor's Oregon book was very helpful

elyob May 27th, 2004 12:19 PM

The Bay House has excellent food, it is at the south end of Lincoln City. Bring up the Oregon Coast website for more great information. www.visittheoregoncoast.com


kimamom May 27th, 2004 12:31 PM

Another nice reference for you would the Oregon Coast magazine. It gives a detailed description about each place on the coast and what will be going on there.

Also, beautiful photography of coastal places. (My son had one of his photos published in the magazine when he was only seven!) It was a pic of Indian Beach @ Ecola State Park. ***kim***

QueenMab May 27th, 2004 01:33 PM

I second beachbum's recommendation of a hike at Cascade Head. It is one of the most beautiful places on the coast. If it is sunny, you will have spectacular views. It is owned and preserved by the Nature Conservancy and in my book, a few hours there is worth more than a hundred meals at Mo's. :p
http://nature.org/wherewework/northa...s/art6796.html


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