Advice on Mid West please
 

My wife and I are visiting Chicago in July to visit relatives. Sadly my wife can only stay a week, but I have a bit more holiday time - another seven days or so - and would like to tour around some of the mid west on my own. Any recommendations?

For the record I should say I have travelled extensively around the East and West coasts, been several times to Chicago, but never out in to the country. I like driving (particularly in the US!), and have an interest in all sports, music and politics (of the liberal variety but don’t flame me for that!) and have no problem with my own company.

All advice gratefully received.

I would suggest a day trip to Madison - it's about two and a half hours from Chicago, and is a lovely city. It has a fun downtown - State Street is directly connected to the capitol, and is full of restaurants, shops, bars, book stores, etc. Given you leaning toward liberal politics, there is probably a lot here that you could appreciate. Madison is a proudly progressive city, and State St. is one place where that shows.

You can also sit on the Union Terrace, the student union for UW Madison. On a nice day it is usually pretty crowded, and is a wonderful setting overlooking the lake. The campus itself is pretty in the summer, and also sits on the lake, and is nice to walk around.

Anyways, Madison is a wonderful city, and well worth a trip, in my opinion:)

The Midwest really covers a large area, so with about 7 days I assume you won't/don't want to do the "if it's Tuesday, it must be Belgium" tour. A few suggestions:

1) drive up the western shore of Michigan, maybe as far as Traverse City or Mackinac. Lots of resorts, bays, lakeside towns, boating, etc

2) drive up through Wisconsin into Door County and over through the Dells and maybe up to Lake Superior

3) drive up to the North Shore of Minnesota along Lake Superior. Beautiful country. Great small towns, lots of outdoor activities. That said, this might be a little of a push for a week, but worth it IMO.

If any of these (or other suggestions) sound attractive, let us know and we can provide additional details.

Thanks both for the suggestions. Of course Mid West was far too wide a definition, but I am grateful for your interpreting my request so well:-)

Madison definitely sounds worth a visit and looking on the map that might fit in with the suggestion to drive up through Wisconsin into Door County.

I will be travelling mid July. Will experience problems in finding hotel rooms as I travel around at that time, or do I need to pre-book in advance?

Totally vote for Western MI- and I've seen all of the above choices.

If you want a much more boring, but truly more Midwestern feel and actuality of USA's past physical actuality- I would opt for a drive to the Mississippi River- either West or Southwest.

If you're going to be in some of the more popular/resort areas (like Door County) I'd reserve in advance - the summer's can be quite crowded. Places like Madison shouldn't be a problem since the Univ of Wisconsin will be out, except for summer classes, so it won't be as busy as other times of the year. BTW, Madison really is a nice area. I visited there when my SIL did her internship at UW and very much enjoyed it.

Londonman, before I start mentioning a couple of options for you, you might want to look at the website for Midwest Living. Gives much information regarding different areas of travel, events, and so forth.

I like to drive, too. But congested interstate driving, bleh! So get off those interstates and onto the smaller roads.

If you go up the western shoreline of Michigan, make sure to travel on the Red Arrow Highway (in Harbor Country) and the Blue Star Highway (around Saugatuck/Douglas).

If you are going out west in Illinois to Galena (a GREAT destination), come into it on the old Stagecoach Trail (which actually was a stagecoach trail). The last time I traveled it, it was a perfect day in later June. The sky was so blue with puffy little white clouds, perfect temperature (windows open) and you see for MILES over green rolling farmland. It was one of those times, it just felt good to be alive, you know?

Some years ago, my boyfriend (at the time) and I went from Chicago over to Galena on back roads and then down the Great River Road along the Mighty Mississippi through Hannibal, MO (Mark Twain's boyhood home town) to St. Louis (visiting St. Charles, which I thought was great).

I also highly recommend going to southern Indiana. The NW corner of Indiana is highly industrial and not scenic at all. When you go further south to Indianapolis, it is flat, flat, flat driving through farmland. Ever see the classic Alfred Hitchcock movie "North by Northwest" with Cary Grant? The iconic scene with him running from the cropduster - that's the place (honestly)! BUT after you get past Indianapolis, then the land becomes rolling to hilly. Great driving there.

If you go this way, and you enjoy auto racing at all, make sure to stop in at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway Hall of Fame Museum. Then, further south of Indianapolis, there is Columbus, IN (which is a fantastic destination if you enjoy architecture) or Bloomington, IN. Around the latter is where the Hoosier National Forest begins and you are in Brown County, IN. From Bloomington, IN take SR46 to Nashville, IN for a great drive. You will see other places in this immediate vicinity such as Bean Blossom (famous for the Bill Monroe's Bluegrass Festival).

Also, from Indianapolis, if head west, look at Parke County - one of the highest concentrations of covered bridges in the world (I think 30 of them are in the immediate vicinity of Rockville, where you can get driving maps to find them). In fact, if you wanted to stay at Turkey Run State Park (in the inn), you could rent a canoe in the vicinity and paddle Sugar Creek, gliding under one. TIP: Great windy roads from north of Rockville to Terre Haute, IN.

If you go further south than these places, you could travel along the Ohio River Scenic Byway past Louisville through the *other* Madison (IN) onto Cincinnati.

So, if you went through Indiana down along the Ohio River Scenic Byway, you could experience these sports: professional auto racing (Speedway); canoeing, hiking, horseback riding, swimming or sailing (Parke County, Brown County, Bloomington - Lake Monroe areas); horseracing (Churchill Downs is in Louisville, KY) and professional baseball (Cincinnati).

Last recommendations:

The Pitchfork Music Festival will be happening when you are in the area.

If you enjoy thoroughbred horse racing, you can easily get out to Arlington Park Racetrack via Metra.

If you are traveling July 23-29 in Wisconsin, consider going to the EAA Oshkosh Airventure. Great.

Have fun planning your adventure!

Londonman,

Let us know the dates you'll be on your own. It would help for special events planning.

My suggestion would be to drive north to Milwaukee and do the Art Museum. Maybe catch a Brewer's game at Miller Park. Head up to Door County for a day or two. Then, come over to Madison for a few days. The Capital building and the Farmer's Market on Saturdays are must see's. The Art Fair on the Square is mid-month. Music scene is always good here. Great dining options as well. Madison Mallards are a great minor league baseball experience. Visit Frank Lloyd Wright's Talesin in Spring Green and see the American Players Theater for Shakespeare under the stars in a wooded setting. Then, an easy trip back to Chicago.

Two other possibilities. You could go up the Lake Michigan coastline in Michigan, overnight in Saugatuk and take the high speed ferry across the Lake (skipping Milwaukee and Door County). Or, you could limit your time in Door County and add Galena, IL for a couple of days after Madison. It is on the Mississippi and has a wonderful history. It is also a nice drive out there. A stop in Pedaris or Mineral Point to see Wisconsin's links to the English and Scottish settlers might be of interest. Galena to Chicago is 3-4 hours but without much traffic.

Happy travels,

Kevin

If you like baseball and history how about a catching a game at Wrigley Field.

In a week, you could drive around Lake Michigan in either direction. While in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan, you should head north to drive along Lake Superior.

I'd drive Away from Chicago, perhaps heading West through Iowa to the Mississippi, the heading South through St.Louis to Cairo. Up the Ohio through Illinois and Indiana or So, then head back to Chicago. That's a rough draft. There are dozens more trips you could make.

Oh, yeah! I completely forgot to mention this but another poster on another thread reminded me of it. If you are going into the Saugatuck/Douglas area of Michigan, you can rent a dunebuggy.

I imagine you usually don't get to do that in London, so might be a bit of fun! :D

Yes, there are sand dunes near Mears and Silver Lake that are the largest open to free use in the USA. You can rent a jeep and go straight down, or go onto the 1000 acres left to pedestrian only traffic. Warren Dunes in MI and other smaller dunes in IN are closer to Chicago and on the way if you take the drive up MI's left side (Lake MI coast) right off of I-94.
South Haven and upwards all have lots of B&B's but are crowded that time of year.

Honestly, seeing it is June tomorrow and you are going in July, the easiest and most relaxing trip re logistics this late and already into summer, would definitely be the Galena and westward ride or South to St. Louis and Southern Illinois creek and hill areas. Much, much less density of traffic- if that's what you are looking for. Plus it is much representative of historically agrarian/agricultural American town life. IMHO, the megapolis of Chicagoland has changed and affected the other choices much, much more.

Very close to Chicago (about 1.5 hours) is a very senic area, the Illinois River Valley. Starved Rock State Park and/or Matthiessen State Park are beautiful with limestone cliffs and waterfalls. Not what you would expect in the flat midwest. Starved Rock has a beautiful lodge. But you must make reservations in advance.

http://www.starvedrocklodge.com/

Another unique place in the midwest is Effigy Mounds National Monument in Harpers Ferry IA. It is just across the River from Prairie du Chien, WI. When I went there I became enthralled with the mounds. I read everything I could get my hands on concerning Indian Mounds (I think there were 2 books). I have always wanted to go back.

http://www.nps.gov/efmo/

Yes, we do have hidden treasures in Illinois.

And cheribob is so right, how can I forget something on the way- if you go South. Springfield has become much, much more than it was. The Abraham Lincoln Presidential Library and Museum are worth a full day and it's all hologram and interactive spectacular. And if you are at all interested in the Cohokia Mounds (they are pre-Native American mound cities)-those are further, but well worth the visit as well.

While Door County is a great place to visit, it's more of a "kick back with friends and family" destination and I don't know how it would be for a single traveler.

I like the suggestion of Madison, plus Taliesin and the Kettle Moraine), followed by a trip to the Mississippi with a stop in Galena. Plenty to see and do for a week, without too much driving.

Wow! This is the first time I have used a board like this for seeking suggestions and would really like to thank everyone for their suggestions to date.

Methinks a spot of intensive research is now needed over the weekend:-)

Best wishes to all

Nick

Don't bother coming to St. Louis. I live here and like it but I've always thought it must be a very dull place to visit. I agree w/the going North.

Nick - to follow up on tmontauk's comments (and meant to say this in an earlier post). I wouldn't head too far south of Chicago. July can get pretty warm, and there's so many nice options from Chicago northward where it's likely not to be so warm, though certainly not guaranteed.

Well, he asked to see the Midwest, not the Great Lakes. Cars have AC. I was mainly thinking of the Great River Road, and the Arch. Hit the Amish communities in Indiana. Get a Pork Tenderloin.
Springfield is a great idea.

http://www.roadtripamerica.com

This is a fun website to use to plan a trip - around food, scenic drives, roadside attractions, etc.

tmontauk - I totally disagree with you.
I think Saint Louis might be a great stop off for a day or two.

What about a Cardianl Baseball game, listening to some fun jazz music in soulard, visiting Forest park and the museums, or go a little further out and see some of Mo wineries...aferall Mo at one time was the largest wine producing state before prohibition!!

Anyway, a stop through St Louis might be fun! the Arch is something to see too!
We have friends from London come here once a year for a visit and they love what STl has to offer.

Anyway - have fun! I love Michigan ideas too!!

My vote is for Western Michigan, too!

From New Buffalo to St. Joe - there's a lot to do. Try Capozio's Pizza in Harbert or Mikey's in Bridgman. Check out Warren Dunes State Park. Lots of vineyards in the area, too. Wine tasting perhaps? St. Joe has lots to do, too. Nice downtown area, lots of shops and food. Then, I'd head north to South Haven, another fun little town on the water. I think there's a bar there called Captain Lou's - that's a fun place. Grand Rapids has a minor league baseball team in a real nice park. Traverse City and Petosky are fun, too, especially if you like to drive. Depending on when in July you'll be traveling, you could check out the boat race from Port Huron, MI - Mackinac or Chicago-Mackinac - that's kinda need. "Boat night" in Port Huron can be fun. Maybe drive to Canada? About 6 hours from Chicago.

I'm with TheWeasel. Make a loop of Lake Michigan. It will be a trip you never forget.

Keith

Go to Amazon.com and check out this book -

The Most Scenic Drives in America: 120 Spectacular Road Trips

There are 18 scenic stops in Illinois in the book - and other ideas nearby as well (The book is in my wish list)

Londonman, after you've done your research on the subject, just let us know where you are planning on exploring and we can help out with further details, if you wish.

As the old saying goes, it's all in the details.

One thing that wasn't mentioned - county fairs. You will be going at the time most of them will be happening in the Midwest. If you do go, and want to get something to eat there, go to the booth that the local Lion's Club, Kiwana's, Rotary Club, etc. is sponsoring.

Another thing to consider is the local cuisine. For example, if the area is famous for their fish, enjoy it. Fresh, local corn on the cob - yummm! Go to farmer's markets (and so many towns now have these on Saturday mornings) or roadside markets for local produce. Michigan is a GREAT state for that, and you might be there while it is still cherry season (early July). Michigan also has many wineries, as do the other states.

Since so many towns and cities now have special weekend events, once you have planned which route you are taking, if you go to that particular state's website, they normally have calendars showing what's going on, when.

By the way, there are more ways to travel than by car. Some people rent motorcycles. Some RV's. Some places have bicycles for rent. I've already mentioned dunebuggies and canoes (kayaks, too).

And some people who are seaworthy rent sailboats and sail to ports around Lake Michigan. There are places, such as Belmont Harbor in Chicago, which also charter boats with captain, if cost is no object.

And there are definitely better ways to stay overnight than a chain hotel. Many towns have historic hotels and inns (for example, take a look at the Story Inn, Nashville, IN, website). B&Bs come in all shapes and sizes - some are just rooms in local's houses and some are historically significant structures in their own rights. (Something like 85-90% of the entire downtown area of Galena, IL is on the National Historic Register, and that includes lodging.) If you are going to an area close to a state park, take a look at their accommodations. There are log cabins, cabins, inns, campsites (both with electricity and primitive, in case you REALLY wanted to get away from it all). NOTE: The cabins and inns usually are booked well in advance during the summer season-especially on weekends-but mid-week might be doable; but check it out anyway, you never know about last-minute cancellations.

If you are going on the Circle Tour around Lake Michigan, strongly recommend that you consider going to Mackinac Island. If you are not familiar with it, motorized vehicles have been prohibited on the island and you have to travel by horse or bicycle. You can either stay overnight on the island or do a daytrip. But it is just a wonderful, unique place to explore.

In truth, there are many weeks of things to do in every direction, and I totally favor Western Michigan.

But my one thought that should not be dismissed is your level of driving skills. I personally know people who have driven in Naples and downtown Boston etc. who have quit some of the expressways and toll roads here for their lifetimes. Not all, but a credible number.

The shortest ride in distance for the most things to do and also with an entire "hummongous fresh water lake system on Earth" experience is right around the corner in SW and South Central Michigan, IMHO.

BUT, you have toll roads (the no I Pass lines were 2 miles long for 4 or 5 solid days last week and we are barely into summer)- so it may require, IMHO, getting an I Pass for sure and also the best driving and navigational skills.

Going straight North to WI has become a sometimes you make it, sometimes you don't thing, according to my best friend who has a home in Wisconsin Rapids. Her 4-1/2 hour drive from Metropolitan Chicago is now taking with construction etc. at least 6 to 7 hours. Madison is a city. Why leave Chicago? That's my opinon only of that aspect. I like Madison, and have been there 5 or 6 times- but it is rather like many college towns. Ann Arbor is another. Too many things to do in Chicago and IL on a relativity scale to me. For instance, the drive to Glenco up North and a visit to the B'ai Hai (sp?) temple and the Chicago Botanical Gardens is so spectacular that time of year. That's just one drive. Starved Rock / Galena another.
These have much, much less driving problem logistics in truth.

Starrsville's last post about the day trips and road trips in IL is also a very good one. I had that book for KY and one for IN. I found the best places with them and all my Amish experiences in IN and MI came from that book. They were priceless.

Londonman, it is a lot to think about, believe me. The loop around the Lake in that amount of time is just pure driving. We have tried it 4 or 5 times and never got past Traverse City- doing the Lighthouse Tour (stopping at as many lighthouses as we could). All the "stuff", like jeeps on the dunes and Sleeping Bear and casino North of there etc. etc. etc. got us before we could get back in the car for another 4 hour stint.

And the last factor that would dice it for me, is that you are doing this in July without reservations yet on June 1. There are areas that I no longer go to myself because they are wall to wall people. This is true especially around the Dells and Lake Geneva areas of WI.

Maybe that might give you a better idea of what your givens are. I don't know that it will, but I tried to put some of these "maybes" in perspective.

Also one last thing. I love, love St. Louis and make the ride every other year at least, and had a son at Southern IL. Univ. for a time too- so I've also taken the train. And it is a long, long drive and most of it is flat cropland. Maybe you want to see the real horizon- you can see forever.

Thanks, JJ5.

Another book on my shelf that I love is Pascale le Draoulee's American Pie" Slices of Life (and Pie) from America's Back Roads. She traveled the backroads of American looking for great pie.

Ball parks. Pie. Unique roadside attractions. Any / all special interests may make your drive interesting.

Sticking with secondary roads may be the best idea. I like the idea of driving from point to point and being amazed at the miles of cornfields or flatness of Middle America or the seeing the Mighty Mississippi. Good luck designing the trip of your dreams!

Or, just buy a good map, look for the dotted green lines (scenic drives) and GO! :-)

I was composing my (as usual) lengthy post when others were.

Londonman, keep this in mind. If you don't care for driving through the congestion around Chicago, there are always options. For example, if you are going around Lake Michigan, you could always take the South Bend and South Shore Railroad (see NICTD's website for timetable and fares) out to the South Bend airport (the eastern terminus) and rent a car from there.

South Bend is directly south of the Indiana-Michigan border and it would be a little more a 45 minute drive to New Buffalo, MI from there.

By the way, South Bend where Notre Dame University is located. And Amish country in Indiana is just to the southeast of South Bend (around Nappannee).

How does one head "West through Iowa to the Mississippi."

Wouldn't you have to circle the globe?

Beyond the semantic diddling over Midwest vs. Great Lakes, for raw nature beauty it's tough to beat the shore of Lake Superior, particularly in Minnesota and over to Bayfield, Wis. But that's a lot of driving.

The Madison-Door County combo sounds like a good rec.

Hey, you're right! My editing skills are decreasing as time marches on.
How about, West through Illinois TO Iowa and the Mississippi?
I'm not against the Great Lakes, I just got the impression the OP was looking for a wider variety
of "Midwest Experiences".
He'll have already been next to Lake Michigan
for a week, thus my thoughts on getting away from Big Cities, or cities at all, for that matter.

One last thing that may or may not matter to Londonman. Northern IL and some of the surrounding areas are under a 17 year Cicada occurrence right now. They came out and will be with us in heavily forested areas for a month or two.

You might want to take a short train ride WITH your wife or with the relatives if you have never seen this. There are many spots in Downers Grove, Palos Heights etc. and most Cook County Forest Preserves that have a chorus that is unbelieveable.

Ugly, ugly but the sound can not be described. They are taking some of the school children out in buses to listen. Crunch, crunch- I don't know if I'd want to be doing forests! Although I did not see any in MI at all last week, nor did they have any alerts.

If you go North to forested areas in WI, or in Northern MI, you will need strong DEET levels in lotion or spray to use copiously in July.

Actually, right now the northern half of Wisconsin in in a drought. It's bad for the lakes, but good because the mosquito population is way down.

I love Bayfield (like a small eastern town transplanted to the shores of Lake Superior).

I also love Galena, IL. Plus from there you could go to the Mississippi and into Iowa. I'm guessing you could find lodging there if Galena is booked. It's only about 20 minutes away.

bbqboy - Your first post re: Great Lakes states makes me laugh. I grew up in the Midwest, but now I live in a Great Lakes state, and I've never moved!

Hi Londonman,

I grew up in Michigan, lived many years in Missouri and now live in Milwaukee. Here is what I would do if I were you:

I would take the Amtrak Hiawatha Express north out of Chicago to Milwaukee (1.5 hr). I would spend half a day exploring Milwaukee's museums, Third Ward shopping district and take a brewery tour (Lake Brewery I think it's called). Then I would cross Lake Michigan on the Lake Express Ferry (2.5 hrs) and rent a car in Muskegan, Mi when I got there.

I would then head north along Lake Michigan stopping in Ludington first to take a dip in the lake. Depending on when you go, you could see a sailing regatta or participate in one of the festivals that every small town in Michigan has. (For example - you haven't lived until you have sampled a fish sandwich at the Bay Port Fish Sandwich festival!)

I would spend at least a night in Traverse City and definitely tour a winery there. TC is my favorite resort city in the Lower Peninsula. If you like to golf there are some wondrously beautiful courses in the area.

From there I would cross the Mackinaw Bridge into the UP. It is long and high and frightening. Once a yugo went over in high winds. The view to the straights below is majestic. The UP has so many incredible natural wonders and isn't so far removed from the wild logging and copper mining days.

I would drive to the Soo (Sault St. Marie) and see the locks - quite an engineering feat to see an ore tanker "lifted" across the two great lakes. I would go to the Whitefish Point Great Lakes Museum (near where the Edmund Fitzgerald foundered). I was there 15 years ago and found it fascinating. Great Lakes sailing lore is addictive! I would also visit Pictured Rocks (best seen from a boat), the town of Grand Marais and Marquette. I would then visit a defunct copper mine in the Keewenaw Peninsula.

Then I would just do it all again in reverse to end up in Chicago in time for a departure.

You can get round trip tix on the Amtrak and Lake Express online. I don't think finding lodging will that hard. Finding a weekend camp site in all but the most primitive campground, yes, but hotels and BBs will still have some space - it just may be pricey (but probably cheaper than Chicago). I would start with the Michigan tourist website (www.michigan.org/travel)for events then you could look on sidestep.com or kayak.com for specific property info.

My must do list would include taking a chartered fishing trip either on Lake Michigan or Lake Superior. Find a bonfire one night to look at(almost touch!) the stars and enjoy s'mores (maybe at a BnB). Hang out at the beach during the day and don't forget to stop into the local pub for whatever the local specialty is (i.e. Blue Margaritas at the Blue Water Inn).

So that's what I would do!

If you have driven extensively around the east coast then traffic in the Midwest will not phase you (except maybe Chicago during the construction season). People and cities are much more spread out than in the east!

Hello:
Such wonderful information... I grew up in St. Louis and still have family there. We're going to do a Fall road trip.. my hubby and small dog...will be stoppping in St. Louis and Chicago...what should we do from there? When are the leaves usually at their peak? We were thinking of spending Labor Day in St. Louis and then going from there. All the years I lived in St. Louis, I can't remember ever seeing much of the Midwest. Please advise. Thanks

Late October is closer to peak time for leaf watching.

Londonman,
Please, please let us know how you spent your time in the Midwest. Thank you.

Shimkut and others

Really sorry not to have let people know but have up to my eyes in work since returning home.

Had a smashing time and was very impressed with Southern Illinois - Springfield in particular, Independence Mo where I really enjoyed the Truman Presidential museum and Hannibal where the short boat trip along the Mississippi really brought home to me how big the US is!

Covered some 2000 miles in two weeks, and highlights included lovely drives along the old Route 66 (now I55 in places from memory), stopping in towns that look liked those we Brits think of when asked for our impressions of mid America.

Chicago is an even better city than I remembered it. The Millennium Park, the Bean and the bridge are all fine assets. I enjoyed a night game at Wrigley Fields (a rarity I gather) and stayed in Oak Park which gave the excellent combination of being quieter than the City centre, but only 25 minutes on the L to downtown and is something I would highly recommend doing.

Starved Rock national park, Galena, ah happy memories although it’s quite (but only quite...) nice to be back in London with the rain and relief from the very humid heat.

In short all the recommendations made here were excellent, and even if I didn't get around to your suggestion I feel sure that they would have been!

An area and places I will certainly re-visit. Thanks for all your advice.

Londonman:

Terrific thread full of information - thank you very much for reporting back and you certainly went to a lot of places your average UK tourist will never make to.

Summer 2007 in the Midwest: The newspaper headline this morning says "Relief is on the way from triple-digit heat" This follows 16 days in a row with temperatures above 90 degrees and we are crying out for rain.

Again well done - what a positive attitude you have and it shows in your report.

Sandy
PS I am an expat living in the Midwest and will return home for a holiday in October

I was in Galena just last Saturday. Did you see the truck that inspired the Mater character in Cars?

Just posted these photos this week: http://www.kansastravel.org/4womenontheroute.htm

Thanks for visiting our country!

Keith