Advice for New Orleans in December
 

My husband and I will be going to New Orleans in early December and would like some advice on what to do. I've checked this site, as well as Frommers, for suggested itineraries, as well as previous posts, but would still like to hear your recommendations. We're into everything (history, jazz/blues, nightlife, tours, etc.) and would like to leave after our 4-day trip with a good feel of the city. Are there any special holiday festivities that we should attend that are unique to New Orleans? Also, is it necessary to have a car if we don't plan on leaving the city? Thanks in advance!

You will not need a car. Parking is hard to come by and expensive and the city isn't very large and is very flat so it's great for walking. Besides, you will have to walk off all the food you will eat. And cabs are cheap. <BR><BR>I am planning a trip next spring to New Orleans for my husband and myself, and another couple. My husband and I have been once for a week, the other couple have never been to New Orleans. <BR><BR>This is the basic itinerary I have so far - revisiting places we liked and visiting places we didn't get to last time.<BR><BR>Day 1: French Quarter - taking a historic walking tour of the Quarter and general wandering around. Hitting the French Market for souveniers. See the voodoo museum. <BR><BR>Day 2: Garden District - ride the St Charles streetcar, take a walking tour of the GD including Lafayette cemetery. Continue on the streetcar to Audubon park. <BR><BR>Day 3: City Park and Fauburg Marigny - we didn't explore either of these areas last time we were in New Orleans. I've heard there is a great soul food restaurant in the Bywater neighborhood that I want to check out. <BR><BR>Day 4: Back in the French Quarter - check out some museums, take a riverboat cruise, possibly go over to Algiers on the ferry and check out the Mardi Gras museum. We might take a ghost tour just for the fun of it. <BR><BR>We will also have a 5th day, which I am going to leave open in our itinerary.<BR><BR>I have seen advertisments for Laid Back Bike tours which look interesting. We might take a day and do that depending on the weather. <BR><BR>For restaurants we liked Redfish Grill, Pere Antoines, Remoulades, Mother's, Central Grocery. We also want to try Petunia's. Clover Grill, Camillia Grill, Franky and Johnny's, Brennen's.<BR><BR>Last trip we took a walking tour with The Historic New Orleans Walking Tour company and really liked it. I've heard that the Friends of the Cabildo have a good tour as well.

Thanks for the recommendations! Sounds like a great itinerary. Anyone have recommendations about the holiday festivities or anything else?

For a good meal, reasonably priced meal in the French Quarter, try the Crescent City Brewhouse. Great microbrew beer, good food, not overpriced, and not as tawdry as some of the places on Bourbon Street. It is on the first street right along the river, [of course I can't remember the name right now] - within walking distance of the Hilton where I stayed.

J Correa: As Kal and I would say, &quot;Great itinerary, but where are the Lucky Dogs?!?!?!&quot; Sounds like you have a fantastic time planned, enjoy the city!!! We'll be there in the fall and can hardly wait already!

&quot;Can hardly wait already&quot;???? The things you notice after you hit Post My Reply..........

Sheryl, my husband and I go to New Orleans every year for our anniversary. This will be our 16th. Most restaurants have a Reveillon dinner. Sort of a Christmas feast. Make sure you go to City park to see the 2 million or so Christmas lights. For your first time, rent a horse drawn carriage and take a bottle of bubbly for the ride. They have a wonderful miniature museum but I can't remember the name of it this minute. You will have a great time.

I would include a visit to the DDay Musuem. It makes a nice break from all the French Quarter activity. It is a very moving exhibit. You can take the streetcar to within a couple of blocks.

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Sherly, December can be a wonderful time to come here, its usually not 90 degree's and rain isnt as likely in Dec as it is in spring and summer. Make sure you ask about &quot;Papa Noel&quot; or &quot;Creole Christmas&quot; rates which are about as low as summer rates at almost all hotels.

Sheryl,<BR><BR>All the above info is good. I live both here and Miami.<BR><BR>The only thing I would correct is Brennans (no offence to the recommender) but it is one of the FEW know tourist traps. (unless you were talking about Dickie Brennans steak house) Basically the rule of thumb is except for Dickie Brennan, stay away from any of the Brennan establishments, and there are at least 5.<BR><BR>Take the same money and go to Nola's which is one of Emiral Legaussi's restaurants, and I think the fines in the city.<BR><BR>It is hard to go wrong in this city when it comes to food...even if you ended up at &quot;Brennans&quot; it still would be better than most cities.<BR><BR>One hidden gem not mentioned, but popular among locals is Liuza's byt the Track...cheap and DELICIOUS.<BR><BR>Have fun

Richard... what about Mr.B's and the little place in Metairie that Cindy Brennan is running; Ive heard good on both of those Brennan establishments?<BR>Not that tourists need drive out to Metairie for dinner lol.

I would have to disagree with Richard on several counts. All of the Brennan restaurants, including Brennan's, are good places. Only the famous &quot;breakfast at Brennan's&quot; is worthy of the title &quot;tourist trap&quot; and it's only because it's expensive for what you get. I regularly recommend Mr. B's, Palace Cafe, Dickie B's, and Redfish and responses are almost always positive. Many locals dine at these places, too.<BR><BR>NOLA and Emeril's, on the other hand, exist to serve tourists. I don't many locals who visit.

Sorry. Above post should read &quot;I don't know many locals who visit.&quot; Should proofread before I post!

Dan your forgiven about proofreading, I'm much worse!<BR><BR>Hmmm...I'm begining to wonder if Dan is related to the Brennans!!! ha ha.<BR><BR>Ok first....I said Dickies is OK Mr. B's is good but it falls I believe in the mid range of quality. To me it is just a fancy steak and patatoes place..mediocre but fantastic service....pesonally I'd go to Ruth Chris or Cresent City Steak house, or the Rib Room for better food. Palace Cafe is OK, Redfish to me IS a tourist trap..food ok but prices beyond the quality. I guess what annoys me about most of the Brennans restaurants is that they seem to have made a science out of cooking ok food, and charging superior prices.<BR><BR>Emiral's I agree, even Emiral has been overheard he does not like it there. It is a total waste of money and time. <BR><BR>BUT you are dead wrong about Nola's, I think it is among the BEST in the city, and that has resonated among many people I entertain from all over the world....Dan...have you even gone there????<BR><BR>Nola's is not well liked among the old steadfast &quot;keep things the same old way&quot; diners, because...well Nolas represents the new up and coming avante guarde of New ORleans...ie New Orleans does not like change.<BR><BR>It is a funky upscale atmosphere and it is fusion cajun, it is loud South Beach Miami style restaurant....something that the old guard just can't seem to handle. <BR><BR>If your used to Manhatten, Miami, LA style fusion, you will love this place!<BR><BR>It is has an exciting energy about it, the portions are generous, and everything on the meny is exciting to the palete!<BR><BR>If you go, be sure you try the &quot;Mrs Hay's vietnemese stuffed chicken wings&quot;<BR>apetizer. After that all entres are simply amazing! the fish, steak etc.<BR><BR>If your the stuffy type that expects your meal to look the same old way every time, and you prefer the steady low key drone of the &quot;old boys&quot; then my advice to you is Mr. B's or Galatoire's (groan!)<BR><BR>Also someone commented about a Brennans in Metarie, sorry have not been to that one.<BR><BR>Also someone about Cresent city brew house, great beer!!! but the food, I think they may have drank too much before eating. Go for the beer, skip the food! Same type of food I would go to Acme, or the restaurant with the jazz band where the road splits off in front of the market (can't remember the name)<BR><BR><BR>All in all, with me disagreeing with Dan, we are splitting hairs! For the most part even the &quot;bad&quot; food here is better than 99% of the restaurants in the rest of the world.<BR><BR>Oh yes...one Brennan establishment that I will definately recommend is Storyville....Great Jazz!&quot;<BR><BR>Hey Dan how about Bella Luna?<BR><BR>

I have to agree with Dan about NOLA's, we were there in September and what we considered our worst meal ever - Never again!!!

I love Galatoires. It is not touristy. It is not nouvelle cuisine or ramped up Emeril stuff. It is traditional French, New Orleans style with great service that is not obsequious or pretentious. There are always large tables of New Orleans families celebrating something and the food is superb. I have been there many times starting at about age 5 during Mardi Gras and it is still a favorite.<BR><BR>Look at and have a drink at the Court of the Two Sisters. A lovely patio but dismal restaurant. I concur on the Breakfast at Brennans. Long in the tooth tourist trap. <BR><BR>I like Commanders Palace in the Garden district. Great Jazz brunch.<BR><BR>The Junior League often has a house tour this time of year. It is fun to see inside some of the houses that aren't open to the public.<BR><BR>I enjoyed LongVue house and gardens. <BR><BR>

I'll agree to disagree about NOLA. I don't think it's bad but it's not among my top ten. I was last there in October with my folks and, while we enjoyed it, the noisy atmosphere and atmospheric wine prices negated the decent food in our opinion. Also, I didn't find NOLA particularly creative. Certainly not to the extent of Rene Bistro, August or even the new Cafe Marigny (sorry but I forgot Marigny's new name!)<BR><BR>Not a Bella Luna fan either and the &quot;view&quot; people speak of is often not very visible due to weather!

A funny story about Crescent City Brewhouse: I recently went with 4 friends and the server screwed up all four orders! My burger morphed into a chicken sandwich by the time it arrived, the meatless nachos were covered with chicken strips, etc. We laughed about it and, being troopers, just ate the meal despite its mediocrity. But, I won't eat there again!

Sheryl, A few more fun things to do in Dec. You can ride a streetcar through the garden district and see some really beautiful mansions decorated for Christmas. Also, they have free concerts in St Louis Cathedral all month long. I love Christmas shopping in the French Quarter, plenty of unique gifts and art. Also I like the giant Jazz tree in the lobby of Saks.

Yesterday in the Baton Rouge paper I saw an ad for Christmas in New Orleans. It mentioned free nightly concerts in Jackson Square. Call l-800-323-8912 for a free guide book or check out their website at www.neworleansonline.com. Special &quot;Papa Noel&quot; hotel rates are available in December. This may help you. Good luck!

Yep, Bella Luna only in good weather. <BR><BR>I was fortunate to be there one evening with a table directly facing the river and a full moon which past directly in front of us the whole evening...simply magical! The food was good but not over the top. Italian is not so hot in New Orleans as is Asian. <BR><BR>I think I am detecting a pattern in the negative comments....and again I will emphasize that this is a fusion, avante guard style restaurnt. It is noisy,but high energy and fun if that is your style.<BR><BR>Again keep these items in mind, and if you are more main stream and want a quite place, this is not for you, but is rather in the tradition of Asia de Cuba in Manhatten, China Grill Miami and Masaharu Morimoto's Philidelphia restaurant. If you are familiar with these and like them, then you will love Nola.<BR><BR>As for the person above that had &quot;the worst meal ever&quot; I'm sorry you had a bad experience, but that is rather impossible or just plain very bad luck!<BR><BR>If you had a bad meal, you should have had it corrected, which would have done right on the spot.<BR><BR>The other comments of Dan &quot;atmospheric wine prices&quot; are correct, and I think you may not have liked it because of the noise and wine prices tainted your taste buds.<BR><BR>I love to defend this restaurant because it represents a new and changing New Orleans, neuveau cuisine is something the staunch N'Aulins folk are having a hard time accepting, along with the &quot;modernization&quot; of the city!<BR><BR>There are sure to be many more heart attacks ahead as the younger generation moves back home!<BR><BR>Bet you don't like going to 360 the W or the International house for drinks either huh? again the priciest drinks in the city....but compared to NYC, Miami, LA....very cheap!

Thanks for your responses and recommendations, everyone! It is very much appreciated. My husband and I did more research and will be following many of your suggestions. I have more questions, based upon our research. <BR><BR>Any other opinions on Red Fish Grill, Gumbo Shop, and Camellia Grill? We are thinking checking out those restaurants. Also, any opinions on the Pelican Club? Their reveillon menu sounded good, so we're also thinking of dining there. What is the dress code? We'd like to avoid dressing up more than &quot;business casual&quot; if possible. I read that there is a walking tour for the Celebration at the Oaks, so can we just get dropped off by a cab and walk around? Has anyone taken the airport shuttle to his/her hotel? Last, but not least, will it be safe for us to walk around after 5pm in the French Quarter? What areas should we be wary of? Again, thanks in advance!

Richard, please don't make it sound like everyone who isn't enamored with NOLA is a complete hick. Read the &quot;rants and raves&quot; on this very site. Some like it but some don't and that's okay. There are many opinions out there.

Actually, I don't think New Orleans NEEDS nouveau riche places like 360, W Hotels or the expensive bistros that are now the rage. The uniqueness of New Orleans is why I like visiting. If I want &quot;trendy&quot; I can stay home in Florida.

Where are you staying? What places are o.k. if you don't have a car and want to get around easily?

Not suggesting anyone is a hick if they don't like it, just trying to point out why they would or would not like it.<BR><BR>Thank goodness we all don't like the same thing, otherwise the line would extend around the block at our favorite restaurant. All the suggestions are good ones, still N.O. has best dining in USA.<BR><BR>As for you Sal, I didn't know I existed to serve your needs!<BR><BR>Variety is the spice of life, and I don't think I should have to go to Florida to experience something diferent now and then, and your comment is as silly as telling you to keep Mickey Mouse the only industry in Florida because we like mickey just the way he is!<BR><BR>Every sucessful city has a good variety of everything to keep things alive!<BR>

Pelican Club was good, but call first because I think it has a &quot;jacket &amp; tie&quot; code.<BR><BR>Camillia Grill is a must go but be prepared for a long line on weekends. I go usually in the mid afternoon when it is busy season.<BR><BR>Red Fish is good especially the seafood, and the Jazz club next door has some good entertainment.<BR><BR>Gumbo Shop I did not like, but it seems other did. I think most would agree the service is not very good there, meaby thats what tainted my meal.<BR><BR>As for walking in the quarter after 5, no worries, it is very busy, just don't go above Bourbon. From Bourbon to the river no problems, any time until the wee hours. Again just be sensible, and don't go into unfamiliar areas where there is no one walking around.<BR><BR>Do not go into the cemetaries at night at all...and in the day time don't go without a guide!<BR><BR><BR>

Sheryl, I will let the locals continue to argue about where you should eat, I can honestly say I have never had a BAD meal in New Orleans! LOL. Anyway, yes you can walk around the Celebration in the Oaks display at city park. The only problem I have had with that, is we easily got a cab from our hotel to the park to see the lights, but could not get a cab back from the park when we were ready to leave. We had to walk quite aways from the park to catch a cab. We now just drive our vehicle, but since you won't have a car, if you do take a cab, I would tip the driver a bit extra, and ask him to come back for you at a certain time. The French Quarter is perfectly safe after 5pm. The police take good care of the tourist there.

We had a fun time at Mulate's. There is a nightly cajun band with locals giving dance lessons. We also enjoyed the Mid-City Rock and Bowl - old fashion bowling lanes with nightly bands and dance floor. We did the touristy stuff like Bananas Foster at Brennan's and Hurricane at Pat O'Brien's. We did a plantation tour of Laura and Oak Alley (very interesting). I think a carriage ride through the Garden District near dark would be nice to see the Christmas lights.

Hi Sheryl, I think there were two of your questions that are still unanswered. The Gumbo Shop's dress code is casual. I've eaton there once. Most of the party liked what they had. I have no strong memory of the food either way. I would try to sit in the &quot;courtyard&quot; rather than the crowded dining room.<BR><BR> The shuttle bus is a fine way to get to your hotel, just takes a little longer than by cab. Do a search and you will see a reply I gave that lists positives and negatives of cabs and shuttles from the airport.<BR><BR>Have fun!<BR><BR>Chazz

Just wanted to say to be sure to check out Laid Back Bike Tours - I met the owners when I was there last year and they are outstanding people. They had to turn some bike tours into kayak tours during the recent flooding from the hurricanes - they work with what they have got! (My father lives across the street from them). They host music jam session in their suite which apparently has great accoustics.

Sheryl, no trip to America's most haunted city would be complete without a ghost tour. There are several to choose from, and they range from excellent to trashy. The one I enjoyed most was the New Orleans Ghost Tour. I got a discount coupon for it from citysearch.com under the listing for The Morgue Bar, which is where the tour started out. I first discovered this tour on citysearch.com's Best Of poll and gave it a try with a group of friends. We're all from the Charleston (SC) area, where ghost tours abound, and we had a blast on this particular tour. Of course, knocking back a few Bloody Mary's before during and after the tour probably didn't hurt, but seriously we had alot of fun. Go for it!<BR><BR>Ronnie in SC

Enough with advertising this ghost tour, &quot;Ronnie.&quot; You've been warned before.

Aauuugghhhhhh - is &quot;Allison&quot; back?!?!?!?!?

Thanks again for your input, everyone! My husband and I are getting more and more excited as our trip draws near. Chazz, thanks for the cab/shuttle info - I did a search and found your pros/cons message. Another question: why are the cemeteries so dangerous, even during the daytime?

With all due respect to Richard, forget Nola's and just walk across the street to the Napolean House and order up a muffaleta (better than Central Grocery). The is no need to patronize any Emeril establishment. He made his millions off of New Orleans style cooking but was just fined by The Vieux Carre Commision for letting an historically designated building in the Quarter he has owned for years become a blighted property. <BR><BR>For Sheryl, to answer your question, I recommend you do not going walking in the Quarter after 5:00 p.m., that's when all the murders happen and as you know December is open season on tourists. As to why you do not visit the cemetaries at night (or in the day time for that matter) is that they are right next to one of the worst housing projects in the city. Of course if you want to resupply on crack, its a great place to visit.

They border on bad neighborhoods and the criminals tend to hang out there to mug the tourist.<BR><BR>There are several tour companies that will take you safely, and I would recommend the tour to anyone, especially to the Voodoo queens tomb in St Louis # 1.

Don't tell me your going on about Nola again?? were you fired from there or something??<BR><BR>Do not believe the anti Nola bashing, just see for yourself and go by the restaurant and look at the menu.<BR><BR>Keep in mind that a lot of the contraversy stems from old &quot;establishment&quot; not open to new ways of doing things. I eat there all the time and it is a wonderful restaurant, and a nice change from the other old style restaurants, who are also VERY GOOD. <BR><BR>As for the comments of not walking in the quarter after 5:00pm, YOU can't possibly be from here, otherwise you would never say such a silly thing.<BR><BR>The quarter is teaming with people well past midnight, is heavily patroled by police, and rarely is there any serious trouble especially considering the millions of visitors to the quarter.<BR><BR>If you want to be reassured, go to www.nola.com and they have webcams on the site that view the quarter live. You will see that it starts to get REALLY busy around 8:00pm<BR><BR>

Richard, I'll ignore the &quot;NOLA bashing&quot; if I can also ignore your &quot;NOLA promotions&quot;<BR><BR>It's just a restaurant and, according to my trusty Zagat's guide, not among the best in town.