A fall meander from TX to CA
 

In late September we needed to drive back to CA from TX and decided to make a road trip out of it. We had no plan and winged it for the most part. NM had a quarantine so CO seemed like a good place to head and also to escape the heat. Pagosa Springs was a town we had driven through previously and thought it might be worth a stop. It was 14+ hours from where we were starting our drive so we broke it up by overnighting in Roswell NM chosen solely because it was past mid-point along the route. I booked a hotel room with a kitchen and we drove straight there and stayed in our room until we left the next morning.

We arrived in Pagosa Springs after two long travel days just happy to have gotten that over with. We stayed at the Club Wyndham in a one bedroom condo overlooking the golf course. Our unit was older but fine. It looked like they were in the process of remodeling the lake front units.

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Dinner of leftover BBQ

The next morning we hiked up Reservoir Hill for a view of town and spent the rest of the day soaking at The Springs. We bought passes that included the adult terrace, got there early enough to grab two chaise lounges and stayed up there the whole time. Pools had capacity limits as low as 2 and up to 6 but we had no trouble finding an available pool. Could've been because it was a weekday. There was also food and drink service. It was bliss.

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We decided to head up to Ouray. It was now a Thursday and I only managed to get a one night reservation at the Riverside Inn. We took a beautiful drive up 550, something we were unable to do the last time we were in the area due to a snowstorm. Getting to Ouray we found the town mobbed and were glad we were only staying one night. We took a short drive to Ridgway to get out of the crowds. Dinner was on the patio of Brickhouse 737. I can't remember exactly what we had but do remember it was good. The most memorable part of the evening were the 3 mule deer bucks casually strolling down the middle of the Main Street.

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Molas Pass

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Silverton

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Ouray

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Ridgway

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It was time to head some place quieter. The southeast corner of UT was an area we'd never explored other than a short trip to Monument Valley. Basing in Bluff seemed like the best option and I found Bluff Dwellings which looked like our kind of place so booked 3 nights there. It was a scenic drive leaving CO with views like this along the way.

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We stopped at Newspaper Rock.

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And the Needles district of Canyonlands on our way to Bluff. The smoke haze was much more noticeable in UT but nothing like what we'd experienced earlier in the month at home.

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Along the Cave Spring trail

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Big Spring Canyon

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Patty - I think you were in SW CO around the time we were there as part of our 10 day home state road trip. We only passed through Ouray this time; a Saturday in late September, and could not believe how busy it was. We visit Ouray often and have never seen it like that. On our most recent visit in early March, I overheard a local tell someone that 2020 was the busiest year Ouray had seen in years. I believe it.

Pagosa Springs was also packed when we drove through in June. Half of Texas seemed to be there. It wasn't too bad in September though.

In September the smoke was pretty bad until we reached Ouray and Durango, where the skies were clear and smoke-free.

Melnq8,
It was October 1st by the time we got to Ouray. Pagosa Springs wasn't terribly busy so we were expecting Ouray to be similar. It was our first time there. We were heading south and only made it to Ridgway last time before it started snowing and decided to abort our drive.

I'd been following the smoke maps and knew that the smoke was pretty bad in other parts of CO. We were very lucky to only encounter a few days of distant haze on our trip. This was our backyard earlier in September in the middle of the day.

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Bluff Dwellings opened in March 2020 and promptly closed until summer. There was still some ongoing construction and this is what the final build out will look like.

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It's beautifully sited with all rooms having a patio facing the cliff.

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The onsite Cedar Shack Cafe was open on weekends serving a limited menu of things like pizza, salad, wings for dinner and breakfast burritos in the morning. We utilized it for a few meals during our stay and as it was counter service we brought our food back to our patio and by one of their fire pits.

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We started our next morning driving through and wandering around Valley of the Gods. There was surprisingly plenty of available dispersed camping considering it was a weekend. This whole corner of UT was very quiet and we only ran into a handful for people wherever we went.

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We then drove up the Moki Dugway to Muley Point Overlook with distant views of Monument Valley.

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Our last stop was Goosenecks State Park which I think rivals Horseshoe Bend with the benefit of having far fewer people.

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As it was getting hot, we headed back to Bluff to look for lunch and hang out by the pool. In addition to the cafe at our resort, there were 3 open restaurants in Bluff. We tried them all. None were bad and I would eat at any of them again. All were operating outdoors only with counter service with the exception of Comb Ridge which had table service. Today we stopped at the cafe next to Twin Rocks Trading Post. The trading post also had some beautiful items for sale all made by local artisans.

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Wow! That looks absolute gorgeous. Great pictures too. I'll definitely have to put this on my itinerary next time I'm in the southwest.

The following day we went to Natural Bridges National Monument. We drove the one way loop to the overlooks and took two short hikes down to Sipapu and Owachomo bridges.

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Sipapu Bridge

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Owachomo Bridge

On our way back to Bluff we stopped to see Mule Canyon Kiva.

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And took another short hike to House on Fire ruins.

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We weren't ready to leave the next day so extended our stay by another night when we got back to the hotel.

On our third morning we went to Hovenweep National Monument. We found Bluff to be a great base for day trips in different directions within an hour or so.

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Thanks, Flurnim. We loved this corner of UT.

What gorgeous photos. I'd never heard of House on Fire - I'll definitely try to fit the Bluff area in next time I'm in the general 4 corners area.

Thanks, janisj. I found this planner very helpful https://www.blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/fi...ip_Planner.pdf

Some additional maps here https://www.blm.gov/programs/nationa...ment/brochures

This site had good info too https://bearsearsmonument.org/bears-...-monument-map/

We needed to decide which direction to head next. As it was a little warm for us at this elevation we thought we'd head for higher ground. I found a room at the Red Sands Hotel in Torrey near Capitol Reef which we had only briefly visited before. We needed to backtrack in the direction of Natural Bridges but this gave us a chance to see a few things we'd missed earlier. Our first stop was a failed attempt to find the Butler Wash dinosaur tracks. I don't know if we were looking in the wrong place or they were just really faint. Next was a short hike to the Butler Wash ruins overlook.

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Followed by a visit to Cave Towers.

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The drive along 95 was fairly picturesque and we made note of the location of a slot canyon hike past Hite for next time. We drove through Capitol Reef but did not stop due to limited parking. We decided that an afternoon by the pool was better than dealing with crowds and that we'd return early the following morning.

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I did a check for dinner options and Cafe Diablo which we had enjoyed last time had since closed. The restaurant at the Rim Rock Inn seemed like a decent choice. I made a call and they could fit us in at an outdoor table if we arrived early. The food was OK, the view was very nice and I didn't see a whole lot of other options. I had actually wanted to stay in one of their cabins but they were booked.

The next morning we headed out early to hike to Hickman Bridge. It was beautiful in the morning light. By the time we got back parking was overflowing.

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We then hiked part of Grand Wash before heading back into town for a late breakfast at Paizlee's.

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Searching for our next stop I was hoping to find some place to stay in Boulder or Escalante (ha ha!) but the best I was able to do was Tropic. We've stayed in Tropic before and actually like the little town but the cabins we liked were of course not available so we ended up at the Red Ledges motel. We made a few stops along 12 and had lunch at Escalante Outfitters. The contrast of covid protocols between Bluff/Escalante and Torrey/Tropic were like night and day. It hardly seemed like we were traveling in the same state.

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Still hazy in the distance

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View from Kiva Koffeehouse - I'd love to stay at one of their cottages

We were hoping to grab dinner at idk BBQ which was just a truck in Cannonville the last time we were in the area but now has a brick and mortar location in Tropic but they were having an equipment malfunction so we ended up next door at Rustlers along with it seemed everyone else who had wanted to eat at idk BBQ. There was quite a wait for a patio table but they were very nice and agreeable in letting me leave my phone number and calling me when one was ready. Unfortunately I can't really recommend the food.

Our plan in the morning was to hike Willis Creek slot canyon but that was abandoned with rain clouds and drizzle. Instead we hiked at Red Canyon which we hadn't done before. It turned out to be a nice morning,

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In the afternoon we went to Bryce and just walked along the rim. We lucked out with a parking spot just as someone was leaving.

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Tonight we were very happy to find that idk BBQ had reopened.

Enjoying your report Patty. We'd planned a January UT National Parks trip, but cancelled because COVID was raging. You've given me some ideas for when we reschedule.

Thanks for continuing to follow along, Melnq8.

I’m enjoying your TR, and remembering some of our trips to the area. It would be so nice to get back there before we are too old to hike.

Very nice! I am enjoying your trip and photos. It's all so beautiful!

Thanks, oldemalloy. Hope you make it back.

Thank you, sundowner!

I'll try to finish up the rest of our time in Park City and Jackson later today.

It was time for another where to go decision. I was slightly concerned about staying in this part of UT with an upcoming holiday weekend and trying to find places to stay so decided to head north to the Tetons where it's normally very quiet at this time of year. Most in park accommodations had closed for the season (or never opened) and what was left was already booked. In checking the town of Jackson prices were still much higher than I was expecting for October with availability tight... hmmm. In the end I cashed in some Marriott points to stay at the Springhill Suites. We broke up the drive at the Hyatt Place in Park City where we hiked PC Hill, grabbed lobster rolls from Freshies, walked the farm trail and had Jamaican food at 11 Hauz.

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PC Hill

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Farm Trail

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Freshies lobster rolls

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Ackee & saltfish at 11 Hauz

Delete due to duplicate

We took the boring but quicker route via Evanston to Jackson where summer had suddenly turned to winter.

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By the time we got to Jackson the sun was starting to shine and we had brunch on the patio of Coelette. We found Jackson to be much busier than we expected. Nothing like Ouray but a very noticeable increase from this time last year. NPS stats seem to confirm this with almost double the visitation in October 2020 vs October 2019 https://irma.nps.gov/STATS/SSRSRepor...ear)?Park=GRTE

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Delete due to post no longer in moderation

In the Tetons we hiked to Phelps Lake, Leigh Lake and at Colter Bay. The trail heads closer to Jackson were busier than ones farther north in the park.

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Heron Pond where we've never seen any herons

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String Lake

On the Phelps Lake hike a couple asked to follow us after other hikers reported a bear sighting as they weren't carrying any bear spray. We figured it was most likely a black bear given the location but didn't end up seeing it on the hike. If it's a confirmed grizzly sighting we will generally turn around. Later on as we drove through the same area we did spot a small black bear.

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LSR Preserve

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Phelps Lake

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The weather was unsettled during our time in the Tetons but it never rained or snowed enough to affect us.

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A stormy morning

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Post storm

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Signal Mountain Summit

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Willow Flats

We spent some time looking for wildlife and found moose along Moose-Wilson Rd and grizzlies by Jackson Lake Dam and Pilgrim Creek. We had good views of Blondie (bear 793) who had lost her cub earlier in the year.

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One day as we were walking along Pilgrim Creek, a ranger pulled into the parking lot and said he was closing the road due to due to the presence of 3 grizzlies which we assumed was 610 and her cubs. He said we could slow down to look as we drove out. I managed to snap a few photos out the car window as we cruised right next to them while a line of paparazzi were parked along the highway trying to get a glimpse. Boy her cubs have gotten big since spring!

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Pilgrim Creek

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In June when they still looked like cubs

Finally I can't skip talking about food. Not much was open inside the park. We stopped at Dornans once for pizza. Signal Mountain only had grab and go sandwiches from their store due to covid. Surprisingly the Springhill Suites had their usual pre-pandemic breakfast only it was no longer self serve. Other places had either pared down or eliminated it altogether. We made many trips to Persephone Bakery. We had dinner twice at Bin22 and went back to Coelette after our excellent brunch there. With heaters it was just warm enough to sit outside. Several restaurants had already closed their patios for the season so we had to hunt around a bit in order to eat outdoors. There didn't seem to be any capacity limits indoors.

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Bone marrow gnocchi at Bin22

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Kim chi pancake at Coelette

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Short ribs at Coelette

After 5 days in the Tetons we decided it was time to start heading home. I played around with the idea of lingering in ID for a bit but in the end we just did two long drives with an overnight in Winnemucca. Despite some areas being busier than I anticipated, I thought it was a pretty successful trip considering there was little to no advance planning. Here's our route on a map https://goo.gl/maps/7P58UVUEgi3aS6LUA

Thanks for tagging along!

You know the bears by name???

We get the occasional bear or cub in our backyard and have seen others during our daily walks, and not once have I considered bear spray, but after seeing your photos, I'm wondering if we should invest in some for our hiking trip to the Tetons in May. Any that you recommend?

PS - that food looks really good.

There are some pretty famous "roadside" bears in the Tetons including Blondie's twins from a few years ago and the most sought after bear of them all 399 (mother of 610) who emerged with 4 cubs last spring. I've never managed to see her. Smaller bears and females with cubs may stay closer to human presence as protection from larger males that will kill other bears and cubs. We each carry bear spray when we hike in grizzly territory. We've always bought Counter Assault and get the two pack from Cabelas which has a 10 oz and an 8 oz https://www.cabelas.com/shop/en/coun...eterrent-combo We actually stopped at one on this past trip to buy bear spray as we hadn't planned to go to the Tetons. Some Costcos also carry two packs though I'm not sure what brand. I called a couple of Costcos in the Salt Lake area on our way up to Jackson but they hadn't gotten any last season. Some areas will have bear closures in the spring. Last spring Hermitage Point and Willow Flats were closed (this is an elk calving area) and some people saw hunts at a distance from the view point. Areas around Pilgrim Creek, Grand View Point and Two Ocean Lake are also common grizzly frequenting areas. From Oxbow Bend to the south to Leeks Marina to the north is generally where we've seen grizzlies. That's not to say they can't be in other parts of the park.

:)

Beautiful report Patty. It brings back good memories of my trips, gives ideas for future trips, and has fabulous photos. Can't ask for more.

And last June we encountered this charging grizzly at Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone going after elk calves. We got out of the way and back in the car quick. It was the only time we didn't have bear spray cause we were in a populated area but the park had also been closed for several months. I took these photos after I got back in the car.

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Thank you, Nelson!

Yowsa. Thanks Patty. Black bears are one thing, grizzlies quite another.

Meniq8 beat me to it. How close were those grizzlies?

Thanks for the rest of the trip.

Patty -

Have you ever had to use that bear spray? Sounds like you've bought it a few times. Does it expire?

Patty -

Have you ever had to use that bear spray? Sounds like you've bought it a few times. Does it expire?

I'd think one would have to be pretty close to a bear to use the stuff right?

oldemalloy,
The photo of Blondie was over 100 yards using a 400mm lens and further cropped. We were on Pilgrim Creek Road. The drive by of 610 and her cubs was closer on the same road which is why the ranger closed it. I'm not sure how close the bear at Mammoth Hot Springs was before we got to our car. It probably wasn't that close but it sure felt like it when I saw it running down the road in our direction. I had to yell at my husband cause he couldn't see the bear from his vantage point. That was on Officers Row in front of the visitors center. The road itself is about a quarter mile long. Rangers arrived almost immediately to try to haze the bear so it seems this wasn't the first time that bear came into the area. A lot of elk bed down in the sage there. As a matter of fact the elk seemed agitated right before this happened and we should've realized something was up.

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Melnq8,
We've never had to test out our bear spray, thankfully. It has a shelf life of 4-5 years and is marked with an expiration. It only goes about 30 feet so yes, really close. Here's more info https://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/nature/bearspray.htm If it's hot out, we store it in a small cooler if we have to leave it in the car but they also make containers for this purpose.