Santiago Chile
 

Now we are fully vacinated, we plan to travel to South America in 2022. I have been able to research and make reservations in most places we will visit. However I am stumped about what is the most desirable location for a tourist in Santiago. We prefer to be situated in an area where we can walk to most attractions in town. We like historical sites. The town seems to be divided into several distinct areas. but it;s difficult to find a recommendation, Is there a "old town" area ? Any recommendations would be appreciated.

My experience in Santiago was that some historical attractions are kind of spread out throughout the city. Some of that was due to earthquakes that to a degree have disrupted the 'flow' to what otherwise might have been a contiguous historical district, at least as far as interesting architectural sites and such. That's my experience, others may disagree. I'm I guess comparing Santiago to other large Latin American cities I know. It's not like Mexico City where staying in centro puts you close to almost everything.

Thanks baldone. You confirm my thought that Santiago is difficult to research a "best" area to locate or a walking area where most attractions are located.

I would suggest to have a closer look at what specific places are of interest to you, and also how much time you plan to spend in Santiago (2 days? one week?). This would probably help you decide a little more, by having a look at a city map. For example, if you are planning to see the Museo de arte precolombino, Plaza de Armas, Museo de Bellas Artes, Bellavista including cerro San Cristobal, La Chascona, Gabriela Mistral Centre, etc. , then staying close to the centro would make sense for example close to Santa Lucia or Lastarria. These would be a very efficient base time wise and you could walk quite easily to these places.

On the other hand, if you are aiming more towards parks and strolls, sitting at cafés, higher end shopping/dining in Vitacura, parque de las esculturas (sculpture park), Bicentenario park, going by subway to Los Dominicos artisan village, the Museo Ralli, etc., then have a look at Providencia or a favourite of ours the El Golf neighbourhood.

Thanks kanadajin- We plan on being in Santiago 4 days. We were in Santiago about 15 years ago, but I can't recall much about it since we spent most of our time traveling outside the city. I recall that we stayed at a Marriott, but I don't think it was located in Centro. Can you recommend a couple of hotels that would be well located ? When you look at the hotel websites it is difficult to determine the location from their small maps. Thanks in advance.

Jeterray, we usually rent apartments when in Santiago as our stay is typically for several weeks, fleeing our way too long winter misery back home. So I would unfortunately not have any first hand hotel recommendations for you.

If it can be of any help, I can however mention some hotels which we simply happened to notice during our sojourns (strictly through walking by, with rarely at best a quick peek in the lobby to satisfy our curiosity) which may perhaps be considered location wise. I have no idea about their going rates or reviews though, you would have to dig this a little deeper. It also depends on what you are looking for in terms of amenities, obviously. So take my purely by chance suggestions with a grain of salt.

In the Lastarria neighbourhood, you may want to look at Hotel Cumbres Lastarria, or the Singular Santiago Lastarria located close to each other. I am sure there would be others. In Providencia, we have some friends who stayed at the Hotel Boutique Le Reve and really enjoyed it (on calle Orrego Luco, very nice side street) - btw try the vegetarian restaurant El Huerto right across the street if you do go. There would also be the AC Hotel by Marriott Santiago at the Costanera Centre. A little further up you enter the Las Condes business district (dubbed Sanhattan) and related neighbourhood where you will find many american chain hotels, such as the Intercontinental Santiago, the Holiday Inn Express, Double Tree Hilton Santiago (all on calle Vitacura) and also the Hotel W on Isidora Goyenechea.

I am not sure if this is the kind of info you are seeking, and your site visiting intentions would certainly have a big influence on which area of the city to base yourselves.

kanadajin- This information is quite helpful. It appears to me that the best locations for our interests are in the Santa Lucia and Lastarria districts. There are many places of interest around the Plaza de Armas area. Am i on track here ? If so, do you have hotel/restaurant recommendations in this area ? Sorry to keep asking questions, but my typical research does not divide things into districts that allow for easy walking to attractions. Thanks

No worries, jeterray, happy to try and help.

Given that you spent little time in Stgo itself 15 years ago and on the premise that this would then be a first "real" foray in the city, I would think that, as you mention, staying in the centro makes a lot of sense. This is what we did ourselves on our first trip there years ago as it is walking distance (say within a radius of 30 minutes at average pace) to quite a few of the popular sites. We were very happy to have done so; this area is I would say a little on the gritty side and I would not venture out too far after dark safety wise, but during the day we never encountered any hints of problems (just be street smart as in any large city).

Just for info during the massive protests in the Fall of 2019, you may know this area was particularly hard hit as it is close to Plaza Italia which was the epicentre of the demonstrations. We were there in early 2020 (left merely just days before the worldwide virus shutdown) and there were still many traffic lights which were out of service from vandalism (I understand most have since been repaired) and also an impressive amount (in the negative sense) of graffiti everywhere you could possibly think of, some subway stations still closed, some destruction, defaced buildings, etc. Some amount of clean up has since been done but I do not know to what extent. And the virus hit as a double whammy. All this to say that it probably still would not be under its best light, so to speak. Hopefully it will be well on the upswing in time for your trip in 2022.

In terms of restaurants, I responded to a similar query a while back. Have a look at post 17 in this thread:
https://www.fodors.com/community/sou.../#post16962098

Feel free to bounce more ideas. We actually quite enjoy Stgo and surroundings and have been back many times, despite the fact that it does not seem to generally get a lot of love on travel forums. As they say, different strokes for different folks!

Kana- thanks, and I loved your prior post on restaurants in Santiago. As it turns out, my fellow travelers, want to stay at the Marriott hotel. Lots of points. I spent some time, and wasted some of your time. Sorry, and thanks. I so look forward to visiting Santiago. Your comments sent me to a lot of research that taught me a lot about the city. Thanks.

We are booked at the Singular....late December.

Is there a food market within walking distance?

ekscrunchy, I am presuming you are talking about the Singular Lastarria (just to be sure, I do not know if there exists another one). Also, what do you understand as a food market: Are you talking about a supermarket, or a farmer's market?

I am presuming you mean a supermarket - there is a Express Lider just down the street at Merced 560, just a few blocks away from your hotel on the other side of parque Santa Lucia (5 min walk). Whenever I stay downtown, while not all that large this is where I go for groceries ... and chilean wine !!! (they actually have a surprising selection!)

Kanadajin:

Thanks so much. Yes, the is the Singular. I always like to explore food markets AND supermarkets.
By food markets I mean where the normal people shop.....Like a big market with stalls...not sure how to describe this....

For markets with food stalls from producers, about a 20-25 min walk (2 km) from your hotel you may want to consider La Vega Central, La Vega Chica and Tirso de Molina. They are all next to each other - just walk west along the Parque Forestal parallel to the Mapocho river and cross either the Av. Recoleta or one block further down the La Paz bridge. These markets are just on the other side and straightforward to find from there.

From a practical perspective, they start very early in the morning and things slow down considerably after 2 or 3 PM as stalls are gradually closing. Although I have indeed been there mid-day (12 or 1 PM) and found things to certainly be still hopping. I seem to recall from your earlier posts that you are very well travelled ekscrunchy, but for others who may be reading this, for a better experience (1) make sure to brush up on your Spanish language skills before hand, and (2) be aware of your surroundings at all times (infamous for pick-pockets as it is often crowded with many small aisles) and do not show ostensible wealth (no jewelry, expensive cameras or cellphones, wear any backpack in front, etc.). This being said, I never experienced any issues in several visits but do know of people who did. Also without wanting to be alarmist just make sure to leave this neighbourhood by late afternoon and you will be fine, as at least for me any time after that is beyond my personal comfort level.

The first market you will come across after the bridge is the Tirso de Molina, it is fairly small but they do have a whole bunch of small restaurants on the second floor. Then across the street heading away from the river is the Vega Chica and things start to get more interesting (floor area, variety of products) and finally the next block up, you reach the Vega Central which absolutely humongous with a labyrinth network of aisles and passages (very easy to lose yourself, stay together if you are more than one otherwise good luck in trying to reunite!), with all kinds of sights, colours, smells and sounds. It is a bit of a zoo but that is what makes it interesting. Very interesting and stimulating, produce is often less expensive and fresher than in supermarkets. We found the merchants to be honest, but nonetheless I always try to have a look at the scale as they weigh things and work out in my mind my own expected price before hand for my own peace of mind. I never experienced any attempt of "gringo pricing".

Great news and muchisimas gracias. My Spanish is good but I will take while to acclimate to the Chliean accesnt which in my scant experience, is very different than the Spanish from Mexico and even fromm Spain..

That it EXACTLY the type of market I wanted, although a big supermarket will be on my list as well. I only have one day there, aFTER the quarantine day inside the hotel. The plan is from Miami to Santiago and then south to Nataes. Then back to Santiago and north to Atacama. This of one of the few times I've used a "travel planner" (knowmad in the USA) to do al the planning which takes a load off my mind....I am not exactly in my best mental shape right now so this is a big plus for me..before I have only used by beloved SOUTHERN DESTINATIONS for our several (maybe 6 now) high end safari ventures...planning a return to Zimbabwe as fast as I have time and $$$$$$ for...you really do get addicted to southern Africaa although Namibia might be far in the future if I last that long!!

Anyway, your info is a great boon to me and I thank you again, prosufly!

Do not worry too much about the Chilean Spanish accent, from what you mention I think you will adapt quite easily. I did not find it all that different from the Mexican one, the jump from the Spain accent to the the Mexico one was greater IMHO and I also had to keep reminding myself not to use the vosotros conjugation there (2nd person plural - I learned Spanish in Spain, and much later spent a fair amount of time in Mexico City for work in that language - 100% Spanish colleagues) Of course, every country has its own sayings and words, as with English (for ex. USA: rent a car, UK: hire a car, etc.), but you usually get the idea pretty fast :)

As an interesting aside, I found that the term "bilingual" in Chile often refers to Spanish-Portuguese (as opposed to English), since the contingent of Brazilian visitors to the country is definitely far larger than the North American one.

In any case, enjoy Chile ! I really took to the country and its generous and kind people and I am sure you will too.

They will understand you, eks. But you will only understand about half of what they say back to you. Even other South Americans don't understand them.

"The poorest man in Lima speaks better (Spanish) than the richest man in Chile" is what my hosts in Punta Arenas told me.

I am also planning an escape the winter travel adventure trip to Chile (and then Argentina and Uruguay) in February & March, and plan to start with 3-7 days in Santiago, then Puerto Natales, Torres Del Paine, then to Argentina and El Calafete, lakes, Mendoza, Buenos Ares, beach in Uruguay, . I was sad to read your post about the damage to the center of Santiago and I am concerned about further unrest in the next few months related to the upcoming election. Do you think that I should hold off on Santiago for a few years until things calm down.
And if not, As a general matter when visiting a new city I try to stay in the kind of neighborhood that is analogous to the coolest and nicest neighborhood of NYC I might to live in for a few months, safe to walk around day and evening, with restaurants, clubs, stores, and close to whatever sights there are. What part of Santiago would you recommend for that?

We have 3 days at the beginning of the trip, in Santiago one issue is that we arrive New Year's Eve....might eat at hotel (Singular) that first night...then..La Calma..??????

Do not care about fancy places although budget is generous..want local seafood, or lamb for partner...

We found the local seafood, vegetables and fruit in Chile exceptional. I can’t answer your question but wanted to let you know how delicious their local, fresh foods are.

I am trying to book EL MESON DE PATAGONIA in Santiago......so far very responsive..any comments?

El Meson de La Patagonia - Restaurant

I do not know this particular restaurant, but I see that it is located in Lo Barnachea. (the link does not work for me for some reason) This neighbourhood is quite a trek from your hotel in Lastarria, and I would consider that it would have to be really really fantastic to warrant such a long trip there and back. There are surely at least as good places closer in that may be open around New Year's. Also from what I can gather, they still appear to be a take-out only establishment at this time - perhaps you found different information ?!?

Did you check to see if Mestizo might be open by any chance? (At the far end of parque Bicentenario, next to the pink flamingo pond, beautiful patio for eating, mestizorestaurant.cl) There are also a number of upscale places near the park for example along Alonso de Cordova in the same area of Vitacura.

Are taxis crazy pricey? What about UBER? Owner cannot promise fesh centolla this far ahead and I read that the frozen does measure up..never having had this, I am eager to try the fresh specimen....

Will check your ideas soon..thank you!

Hmmmm ... not sure how to answer this delicate topic. It sounds as if your heart is set on this restaurant. I am certainly more than aware that one cannot generalize, but in my personal experience I have yet to encounter an honest taxi driver in STGO ... and this despite speaking fluent Spanish!!! As a result I now avoid them at all costs. It is sad for the honest ones which I am sure must exist somewhere, but again this is based on my experience only.

As for Uber, they were (and maybe still are?) illegal in Chile even though they do operate there regardless. I tried them once and sadly had an unpleasant trip experience as well. As they are (were?) illegal, you have no recourse in case of problems.

I believe Cabify is however indeed legal in Chile, but I have not tried them yet so am unable to comment. (We are fortunate to have made over time local friends who are often willing to take us around).

Keep in mind that the fastest route from Lastarria to Lo Barnachea is by taking the Costanera highway, which has (not inexpensive) tolls which add to the total fare.

OY vey!

Will check more ideas when I feel better.....lots of places are closed 1 and 2 enero....

So how do the taxis cheat? Fake bills? Overcharging meter???? I am pretty fluent in Spanish if that matters....

This whole trip is giving me a headache..four Covid tests..quarantine in Hotel Singular the first day..and now my back is out so can barely pack.....thank you for your immense help here...

Ayayaye sorry to hear about your predicament, ekscrunchy. I hope things will look brighter for you soon. I am on the road these days and my on-line time is limited; re-reading my hastily written last post I certainly did not mean to be too negative in its tone and hope it did not come across that way as I wanted to at least provide you with a quick heads-up.

For airport transfers, I would highly recommend TransVip where you pay with credit card at the airport before exiting the secure passenger area. All inclusive flat rate (tip incl.) and you have the option of shared van or private car. Both work extremely well and I have used them several times www.transvip.cl. Ignore the touts who will approach you in the arrivals area (but you know this already). I see that they now have added transportation service within the city (yay!) which may be an option for you. That would probably be fine as well I suspect. (you book ahead on-line and the fare is established at that time)

I would think that Cabify would also be an option to consider, though I have yet to try them.

Be wary of taking taxis near popular tourist sites, including Costanera Centre, Cerro San Cristobal, hotels with a large foreigner clientele, etc. Unless things have changed with COVID, they are cash only and you NEVER pay with large bills as the drivers never (how remarkable isn't it !!!!) seem to have change apart from coins and a few small bills. If your Spanish accent is not Chilean (mine is not), expect to be taken through circuitous routes (I now have a lay of the land and can fairly easily detect this), usual tricks etc. I did not come across fake bill issues and do not think that would be a major problem.

I hope things start to look brighter for you soon!

So now to make things more interesting, partner has developed kidney stones and more and good luck even trying to make md appt in NYC. So likely he has to cancel...big question, do I postpone for third time or go alone? As much as I want him with me to enjoy, I do not want to miss yet another chance...do you thinks single woman speaking Spanish would have any issues going solo???? Trip is Santiago, Natales Singular, Awasi Patagonia and Awasi Atacama.....plus airport Holiday Inn.

SO DISAPPOINTING and scary beyond belief (about his health) after all the work and $$ involved but we can likely use insurance for his share. Am I a selfish jerk not to wait for next year (third cancellation) and go it alone? He does not care much--always encouraging about my solo travels....TMI, I know, but I am at a crossroads and have to decide within a few days and do not know where to turn...

All opinions welcome..

eks- My wife of over 50 years, and I discussed your post, and decided we would not proceed to travel alone. Keep in mind that we have always traveled together, and now have at least 3 more international trips planned. At our age, we could certainly see us in your predicament. However, this is a personal decision and we could see you making a completely different decision. I have followed a lot of your helpful posts over the years, and it seems that you are quite adventureous. I suspect you have traveled alone before, so if your boyfriend is okay with it, then go for it. Please remember to keep us posted. BTW, our Santiago trip has twice been cancelled. Hopefully we will go in April 2023.

I am now leaning toward going alone out of JFK via MIA onAA..very scary for several reasons but will know more in a few days..meanwhile there is a nattonal company that comes to your house and gives you PCR tests and results guaranteed in 24 hours, The Urgent Care places in Manhattan now have blocks-long lines!!! Lucky I got the last flu shot in md's office yesterday.

Good for you, ekscrunchy ! These type of decisions are something very personal and depend on your personal views and values.

If it can be of any comfort to you, I personally know of two (unrelated) women who traveled alone to Chile and more for extended periods (a few months) and both had the time of their lives! One is a well-traveled lady in her 60's, and the other a not so well traveled young woman in her early 30's. They had a grand time and made some (probably) lifelong friends along the way.

Ekscrunchy, good luck with whatever decision you make. We enjoyed our time in Chile.

Great support, guys!! Today had infusion therapy (bone density med) and my back was so bad I had to be taken up and down in a wheelchair!!!!! Then blood pressure so high (190-plus) they wanted me to go to the ER!!!!! I am telling you, worst month of my life..worried sick about partner but maybe it will be good to get away---only 2 weeks...I will be a little nervous but once I get on plane (had to order wheelchair due to back issues all of a sudden!) TMI, I know!!

As long as back holds out I leave on 30th from JFK.

Notice time of post!!!! But sleeping on heating pad is great!! And have back md appt this week.

Thanks so much,,this is what Fodor's is about, and it is the only sort-of social media I do.

eks- You got real grit to want to travel. Sorry about your issues. I hope you are fully vaccinated and boosted. You don't need more issues. Please keep us posted about the trip and your health. Good luck, and our prayers are with you and your partner.

Eks, I'm no doctor, just pretend to be one on travel forums. But both my wife and I have chronic pain issues, mostly lower back. This gizmo helps. It's a PEMF medical device, not TENS. The battery lasts 720 hours.
https://www.donjoyperformance.com/eme-back-wrap
This is how PEMF works.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulsed..._field_therapy
Fwiw.

On the transfer issue, I did use TransVIP from the airport a million years ago (2009). And the Holiday Inn was very near the airport so first stop, IIRC.

This is what I wrote to a friend asking about my trip

The Santiago airport is a breeze compared to Lima, almost everyone speaks English, it's easy to get a taxi or shared shuttle (Transvip, ask where it is).. I would take a taxi back rather than the shuttle. Santiago is a big city, probably doesn't need more than a day or two. I wound up using the Metro and walking. There is a good PreColumbian Museum, and I liked La Chascona (one of the Pablo Neruda houses). A number of folks mentioned liking the funicular/cable car that starts near La Chascona.

I think I recommended using a taxi back to the airport because Transvip like most shuttles wanted such a long lead time.

But nowadays maybe Transvip is a better option.

To all of you helpful folks..had to postpone again for third time until January 2023....medical issues for partner. Red tape to enter Chile was a bit of a nightmare..between that, my back, and partner's issues, lots of forms I could not download, last minute cancel of COVID test I booked weeks ago,,,,could not focus on trip. Made me so much more stressed than any trip I had taken with no agent) from Burma in the 70s and 80s and 90s, to Zimbabwe to Java, on and on..this was an entire new ball game even with help from KNOWMAD TRAVEL......just could not do it.

Determined to go in a 2022-2023.....also on my list are Vejer area, Sicily, and Zim.......let's hope partner is ok to go with me!!!!!

eks- Sounds like you made a sound decision. Besides, we want to read about your future travels. Best to you and your partner.

Thanks so much for all your support. This does not sound like me but I just could not do it. Then I realized, I would have to wear a mask from JFK to MIA and MIA to Santiago overnight..Ok, I could deal with that, and Chile is surely safer for all their precautions, but every day the regulations changed and I could just not keep up....could not download some of the forms, some of the websites I could barely understand although I am pretty fluent in Spanish. Then the Covid test doc who was scheduled to come to house 72 hours in advance of flight canceled..could not even understand their website and texts in ENGLISH!! (BeeperMD)

And then there are the medical issues for both of us..mine will get better I am pretty sure, but worried about partner..........run off to Chile and leave him alone???? I will take a big financial hit but just have to deal with that, with help of travel agent Krista at Knowmad..very helpful and recommended.

I fully understand this difficult decision and letdown, ekscrunchy. These are unsettled times for travel plans, and your plight is similar to that of many other persons no doubt. I received news from Chilean friends this week mentioning something to the effect "we are waiting for you, where are you guys?"; as hard as it is we are also foregoing travel for the next few months.

Best wishes to both of you for recovery of your medical issues.