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-   -   Lima, Ollanta, MP, and Cuzco (https://www.fodors.com/community/south-america/lima-ollanta-mp-and-cuzco-914311/)

mlgb Dec 31st, 2011 11:40 AM

Fermin?!

sasark Dec 31st, 2011 11:43 AM

hmmm... Fermin? Is that someone's name? Sorry if I'm missing something, mlgb!

mlgb Dec 31st, 2011 12:46 PM

The "friendly" driver...

sasark Dec 31st, 2011 12:51 PM

-------------------
Final thoughts
============

My favorite places that I saw, in no particular order:

* Lima -- What an amazing city! I definitely want to return. I loved the beauty of the architecture and of the ocean. The public spaces were wonderful. I also thought the people were lovely. Another thing I liked was that, unlike most everywhere else I went, I felt anonymous and was rarely treated as a tourist, at least not in the same way as in other places. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure I stood out as a foreigner, but in such a big city, no one cares! Or at least they don't seem to.

* Machu Picchu, Qorikancha, Calle Loreto, and various other Inca ruins. I'll never forget these places. Seeing the royal retreat of the Incas, the sites they chose for other settlements, the way they designed structures and public spaces, their incredible stonework -- all this really helped the Inca civilization come alive in my mind.

* The Andean countryside -- its land and villages. The Sacred Valley and the mountains around Machu Picchu were so incredible. I loved the natural beauty of all these places, and it was all the better since prior to my trip I really hadn't really looked at photos of the landscape (I'd been so focused on seeing ruins). These mountains were as impressive to me as the Alps (though I admit to having only hazy childhood memories of those). Also neat was seeing the pueblos such as Chinchero nestled in these impressive landscapes. Though I didn't spend too much time in any particular pueblo, I thought they were cool... They felt so far removed from everything I know in my own life -- I love having that type of discovery while traveling.


Other favorite experiences:

* I met so many wonderful people -- both locals and other travelers. I loved hearing peoples' stories, both of other places, and especially of life in Perú. I was lucky to meet so many nice people who were interested in sharing their experiences and having some pleasant conversation over a coffee or cocktail -- to me, this was as important as seeing the sights.

* Los postres. They were so delicious! It has to say something positive about Peruvian culture that they prepare pastries like this.


Things I probably should have done differently:

* Taken altitude medication -- I am young and in good shape, but I did get winded easily in Cusco, and even at Machu Picchu. I probably would have had a better time if I'd at least *read* more about altitude sickness before I went.

* Brought less stuff -- I overpacked. I was worried about being cold in the Andes, so I brought a lot of warm clothes that I didn't really end up needing. I was glad I had flannel PJs and a fleece, but I didn't need the mittens, the scarf, the long underwear, etc., and it was annoying having to lug a big bag to so many different destinations. (All that said, I do wish I'd brought more nice clothes for Lima.) I also grew weary of carrying around all my various guide books and recreational reading. Since getting home, I did something I said I'd never do -- bought an e-reader (a Nook). I love it, and I hope this will help on future trips.

* Allocated less time for Cusco -- When I first posted a draft of my itinerary on this forum, a few people mentioned that they thought I was budgeting too much time for Cusco. I now think they were probably right -- both because it was not the most relaxing place to be (IMO), and because I didn't think it had all that many must-see sights. I don't feel *terrible* about the way things panned out, because the long stay did allow me to get to know the city a little better, and because my last day was probably my favorite, but with hindsight I think two nights could easily have been taken away from Cusco and given to Puno or another destination.


Surprises:

* I had no problems with bugs anywhere on the trip, even in Aguas Calientes. That might just be luck, though. Sometimes mosquitoes tend not to like me. It might be an old wives' tale, but I take plenty of vitamin B ... you never know!

* Everyplace was hotter during the days than I expected, and Lima less cloudy. My sun hat was indispensible.


Suggestions:

* If like me, you are someone who has a debit-card PIN that you remember because of the word it spells (not the numbers), make sure you memorize the numbers before you go. Most ATMs in Perú have only numbers on the keypads, which threw me for a loop at first, especially since it's not quite as easy to remember where the letters would go as you might think.

* Don't forget to take Kleenex with you everywhere -- the restrooms almost never have it!


Thanks again to everyone who contributes to this forum -- I have found it so incredibly helpful and really appreciate everyone sharing their tips and insights.

ncounty Dec 31st, 2011 02:06 PM

Great trip report, sasark! I completely agree with you on your final thoughts/conclusions. I luckily did take altitude medicine upon starting the trip and therefore had little trouble. Even so, steep climbs would get me winded (especially to the tops of the islands of Titicaca) but that is always the case for me.

I cautioned colduphere to have his Kleenex on his trip; I learned that day 1 in the Sacred Valley!

I so agree about Cusco; we may be the only two. I was not as favorably impressed with it immediately upon arrival as everyone else. I started planning my escape within the first hour. I had allocated extra time for Cusco after MP and right away booked one day white water rafting and another 2-3 days to Puno/Lake Titicaca. I was SO glad I did. Those two adventures were major highlights for me, along with MP.

I also overpacked even though I packed very lightly. There was so much I wanted to buy and did buy there; there is very little clothing I needed to bring other than a 3 day supply.

Glad you had such a great trip!

sasark Jan 4th, 2012 07:18 PM

hey mlgb - nope, not Fermin!

ncounty, thanks!! Regarding Cusco -- and allocating the right amount of time to places -- that is hard to do in advance, isn't it? When planning these things, I generally want to book everything in advance, just so I know I'm not going to get stuck someplace with no accommodations (or stuck in a crappy hotel). On the other hand, it would be nice to build in flexibility, but then *that* seems sketchy -- do you book only a night or two if you're not sure you'll like the city? But then what if you *do* like it and now you have to give up your hotel room to someone else? It is a dilemma...

Speaking of Cusco, I really like your photo of the moon over the cathedral -- great shot! Your photos of and around Lake Titicaca are also gorgeous. Nice work!!

ncounty Jan 5th, 2012 02:00 PM

thanks sasark!

It is hard to plan it just right. For me, I felt lucky to have been able to quickly adapt and fill my time allocated for Cusco with other stuff that I ended up loving. Things work out more often than not, eh? :)


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