Lima, Ollanta, MP, and Cuzco
 

Lllamas, ruins, ocean views, cool people -- I'm still floating following an incredible two weeks in Perú!

Because this forum was so helpful to me in planning my trip, I wanted to leave some details about my own travels. First, here's a high-level overview of how I spent my time:

- Three nights in Lima's historic center (at the Gran Hotel Bolivar)
- Two nights in Ollantaytambo (El Albergue)
- Two nights in Aguas Calientes (Andina Luxury)
- Five nights in Cusco (La Piccola Locanda)
- Two nights in Lima's Barranco district (Second Home Peru)

This was probably the most ambitious trip I've undertaken on my own. As a child (and military brat), I traveled extensively in Europe with my family, but as an adult, it's only been in the past few years that I've had the opportunity to travel internationally. I've been to Montreal, Grand Cayman, St. Lucia, and now Perú. I chose Perú because it has, among other qualities, a few attributes that I was particularly drawn to: a world-class city, a gorgeous landscape, and of course its incredible Inca heritage. In all these areas, it surpassed expectations.

Now... on to the details!

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Saturday, Nov. 19 - travel day
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My flight, via Continental, landed on time at about 10 p.m. After gathering my bag and getting through customs, I emerged from the airport around midnight.

I was met by Américo, a taxi driver I arranged when booking my room at the Gran Hotel Bolivar. He spoke some English and was very friendly. Following cautionary advice I'd read on TripAdvisor, I put all my stuff in Américo's trunk -- my money was stashed all over my person in various hidden pockets -- but I didn't see anything that made me feel this was really necessary.

A small white rosary swung from the rear-view mirror as Américo navigated the streets. While he drove, he told me about the city and pointed out a restaurant with a sign that said "Chifa." That means Chinese food, Américo said, reminding me that Lima has a large Chinese diaspora.

Américo estimated it would take 30 minutes to reach our destination, but it seemed hardly any time had passed when we pulled up to the Gran Hotel Bolivar, which is on the Plaza San Martín, a square named for the man who led Perú to independence from Spain. The square is lined with graceful white colonial buildings and is particularly beautiful at night, when it's all lit up.

If you've read a few reviews of the Gran Hotel Bolivar, you probably have a good picture of what it's all about, but here's a quick summary: It is a historic hotel that was quite grand in its day. Today it's a bit worn around the edges, but still glamorous. The hotel's lobby has a stained-glass domed ceiling, and a Model T is parked near the front desk. Unfailingly polite doormen are stationed out front 24 hours a day. Curiously long corridors wind through the upper floors, and the spacious guestrooms have 12-foot ceilings, walk-in closets, and tasteful wooden furnishings. I had requested a room with a view, but they gave me one facing an interior courtyard. This was probably just as well, since even in the interior I could hear traffic from the streets.

The bed was hard, but I slept like a rock after the long day of travel.

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Saturday, Nov. 20 - Lima
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My first day in Lima was amazing!

It started with breakfast at the Bolivar, which featured strong coffee, juice, and a basket of breads. The highlight was a soft croissant that had a layer of caramel baked in -- delicious! The waiter tried to serve me scrambled eggs with ham, but I'm a vegetarian and had to decline.

After that, I was off to explore the city! First I walked to the Plaza de Armas. My idea was to walk through it on my way to the catacombs, then return to the plaza to see the changing of the palace guard at noon. But when I arrived at the plaza, I was surprised to see it packed with people. Surely all these people aren't here to say the changing of the guard, I thought... but it was unclear what was going on. I wandered over to where the crowd was thickest -- near the Cathedral -- and, after perhaps five minutes, a procession started up. At this point, I should mention that I have only rusty college Spanish, but based on what I was able to glean at the time and through a little reconnaissance later, I learned that this was the start of a month-long celebration of San Martín de Porres, the first black saint from the Americas and a much-loved figure. The procession included people carrying a litter that held a statue of the saint, followed by a brass band, the highlight of which was the cymbal player. At times confetti was tossed, and the scent of incense hung heavily in the air. During one stop in the procession, children were lifted up so they could get a closer look at the saint's likeness. Meanwhile, all around the area, vendors sold trinkets commemorating the event. San Martín is often pictured with a broom because he got his start in the Dominican order by cleaning and doing other menial tasks, so among the items sold were small brooms decorated with ribbons and sequins. My broom, bought for 1 sol, is is now a treasured memento of the day. Here's a short video I took of the procession:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7e-pR3WiN30

I followed the procession half a block out of the Plaza de Armas, where it stopped for a lengthy reading of verses. I continued watching for a while, then decided maybe it was time to wander away. At this point, I looked behind me and saw still more activity in the plaza. I went back and found myself on the sidelines of a lively parade! This was yet another celebration, totally unrelated, marking the 67th anniversary of an area in Perú called Pasco, which includes several mountain communities. As a nod to the chilly, high-altitude Pasco climates, many of the parade participants wore blankets and other symbols of warm clothes, and dancers sometimes had bright red circles pained on their cheeks. Others wore elaborate face masks. Here is a short video I took of a few of the dancers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6UQmbCSutg

After the parade, I visited (finally!) the Monastary of San Francisco, also known as the catacombs. An English-speaking guide showed us the church's beautiful hand-carved choir, its paintings, the peaceful courtyard, and the library, which contains texts so old they pre-date the conquest. But of course the highlight of this church is its crypts. Apparently, back in the early days of Lima, there were no cemeteries. People were always buried in crypts. Eventually, to make room, bodies were sorted out into groups of skulls, femurs and so forth, and you can see bins of each type of bones in the crypts.

After the Monastary, I just wandered around, enjoying the sights and sounds of the city. I loved the Plaza de Armas. In some ways it looks Spanish, yet the bright yellow buildings and the palm trees give it a different flavor.

Another thing I liked about Lima is that there are so many cafes situated in alcoves along the streets. That is, they do not have exterior walls -- you can just step inside and grab a table, which makes having a snack very tempting. Another enjoyable thing is that many of these cafes have cases and cases of pastries right along the sidewalk to tempt you. The Peruvians most love desserts! Anyway, that afternoon, I found a small cafe and had a towering slice of cake topped with a cherry. Then I headed back in the direction of the Plaza San Martín, and the Museo Andrés Del Castillo. This museum is housed in a beautiful colonial building, and its exhibits include mineral samples from all over Perú, and, on a seemingly unrelated note, textiles and pottery from ancient Peruvian cultures. I especially enjoyed the pottery, which included many depictions of animals. I particularly liked a sculpture of a dog nursing several pups.

Afterward, I walked to El Bolivarcito, a small bar connected to my hotel. This bar offers wonderful nighttime views of the square. I had a pisco sour, the classic Peruvian cocktail made of lime, whiskey and a frothy egg-white topping. I can say now that the pisco sours at this bar were the strongest I had in Perú -- almost too strong! Also, it really struck me that at this bar, every single person was drinking pisco sours! I didn't see a single other beverage being consumed!

Following the cocktail, I drifted into the Bolivar dining room, and asked in imperfect Spanish for a vegetarian meal. I was served a mushroom risotto that was much cheesier than I prefer, but it had no meat so I won't complain!

More later...

AWESOME report thanks for the give back

also love secondhomeperu.com

apulodge.com for me in ollantaytambo.org

more pastoral away from the train station

Very good detail in your report of Lima. Not many write much about it. Looking forward to reading more. We're heading there the last of April.

qwovadis, thank you so much! Regarding Ollanta, I walked by the Apu Lodge once or twice and thought it looked really nice. In retrospect, I actually wish I had stayed in that area rather than out by the train station, although there were things about El Albergue that I liked.

Idahospud, thanks so much! I really loved Lima. I'll post a gallery of photos with my next day's summary...

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Monday, Nov. 21 - Lima
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I woke up my second day feeling well rested and firmly in vacation mode (it always seems to take a day or two). However, it was hard to believe my time in Lima was already half over! For my last day, I decided to visit more of the historic churches and colonial mansions described in my guidebook. Most of the mansions you cannot actually go inside of, but you can admire their exteriors. I had also wanted to visit the "Magic Circuit of Fountains," but an attendant at the hotel's front desk told me it isn't possible to go on Monday. (I ended up doing it later in the trip...)

Before leaving for the day, I had breakfast (this time a very good vegetarian omelette along with the same basket of delicious breads). I also decided to take some photos of the interior of the hotel. A member of the cleaning staff saw me doing this and gestured for me to come in and take photos of one of the suites. This was fun -- the suite was big, with a living room and a balcony overlooking the square. I'd heard that, in the past, this hotel has hosted many notable people, including Robert Kennedy, Ava Gardner, and Ernest Hemingway. I couldn't help but wonder if someone famous had ever stayed in this suite.

Then I was off! My first stop was el Palacio Torre Tagle, an 18th-century baroque mansion now home to Peru's Foreign Ministry. The first thing you notice about this building is the perfect color scheme, which includes rose (the exterior walls), mahogany (two elaborate Moorish-style closed balconies), brownish gray (the stone doorway), and bright white (the frothy looking decoration over the door). The overall effect is really striking.

My next stop: La Iglesia de San Pedro. This 17th-century structure isn't too exciting on the outside, but the interior -- wow! Everything is golden and fabulous. The arched white-and-gold ceiling is especially beautiful. I learned later that the church has three doors, but because having three doors is considered appropriate only for cathedrals, the third door must always remain closed. I did not see any other tourists inside -- just people praying -- so I didn't take any photos.

Next I walked to La Iglesia (y Monasterio) de Santo Domingo, which is the church associated with San Martín de Porres. As I walked into the chapel, I immediately recognized the statue of the saint that had been carried around the day before. An altar near the statue also contains the saint's skull, along with the skull of another saint. After looking around a bit, I went to the monastery, where two English-speaking guides showed me different parts of the grounds.

The first guide showed me the bell tower, which had impressive views. I asked about the area to the north, where I could see houses nestled into hillsides. She said that that was just more of Lima, adding that this area also has beautiful churches, but she warned that tourists need to be careful when going there.

The second guide showed me the rest of the monastery (though he said it was more properly called a "friary"). He showed me a beautiful courtyard and pointed out how the arches on the lower level are basic rounded arches, but the ones on the upper level reveal a Moorish influence. We also viewed the library, which has many ancients texts, and a room with an intricate hand-carved cedar ceiling. I believe my guide said that the cedar came from Nicaragua and that the ceiling took 20 years to make.

We also visited a chapel devoted to San Martín. My guide pointed out a large clear case into which people place prayers to the saint. Apparently San Martín was illegitimate, the child of a Spanish nobleman and a free African woman from Panama. He was exceptionally compassionate, and he considered all work sacred, no matter how menial. My guide mentioned that San Martín is particularly well loved in Perú. Later I learned that San Martín loved animals and was a vegetarian, just like me. ; )

I asked my guide where he was from and he said Lima, but that his family originally was from another area in Perú. He said that this is the case for many people from Lima -- they trace their original home to somewhere else in the country.

After Santo Domingo, I wandered a bit, passing two more historic mansions: la Casa de Oquendo and la Casa de Riva-Aguero. Of these two, I thought la Casa de Oquendo was the prettiest. I also passed la Iglesia de San Agustín and admired the elaborate facade but did not try to go inside. Unfortunately, a bird pooped on me here -- I was thankful to have a moist towelette with me. One more reason to carry those around....

My next stop was the cathedral. In the past, the cathedral has been damaged by earthquakes, so the interior is not entirely original, but it's very beautiful. My English-speaking guide, Cristian, was excellent. (The tours are free and you tip the guide at the end.) Among my favorite sights in the cathedral was a painting showing past leaders of Perú. Most are Incan emporers, the last of these being Atahualpa. From there, Spanish kings are shown. I also saw the hand-carved rococo-style choir, the sacristy, and a number of beautiful chapels. There is also an office-like room where I am pretty sure Cristian told me that paperwork related to Peruvian independence were signed... though I could have some part of that wrong.

The cathedral also has something slightly disturbing -- an elaborate chapel that houses the remains of Francisco Pizarro. Given all the bad things Pizarro did, it's disconcerting to see him laid to rest in such a prominent place. I asked Cristian about this, and he said that the crypt does not represent the sentiments of the people of Lima so much as those of the Catholic Church, which honors Pizarro as the founder of the cathedral. An engraving in the chapel also reminds you that Pizarro was the founder of Lima.

Like my last guide, Cristian said that he was from Lima but that his family came from an area to the far north, near Ecuador, where the beaches are exceptionally nice.

After the cathedral, I walked south, stopping in at la Iglesia de la Merced. The inside was crowded with worshippers, many of whom lined up to place a hand on a historic cross that belonged to a 17th-century priest said to have had a vision of the Virgin.

I then continued south, past the the Plaza San Martín, until I reached a greenway bordered by two busy highways on each side. I walked through the greenway until I came to the end. Along the way, I took photos of the Palace of Justice, to the east, and several sculptures. Near the end of the greenway is Lima's art museum, also known as MALI. I looked at my watch and was disappointed to see that it was 5 o'clock -- too late to go inside. (But I did end up returning on my last day in Perú, and I loved it!)

At this point I was hungry. I bought a caramel-flavored cookie from a woman across the street from MALI, then headed back. If I had felt better about my Spanish, I probably would have made a reservation at the Huaca Pucllana restaurant and taken a taxi there. But I was tired, and given my early flight the next day, not to mention a lack of confidence in my ability to handle a Spanish phone call, I opted for a cheap chifa restaurant near the hotel. After a laborious conversation with the proprietor, I ended up with a bowl of soup which, sadly, did contain a chunk of meat, along with a plate of rice and vegetables that was really not very good. At least it was only 7.5 soles! Afterward I eased the pain with a pisco sour at El Bolivarcito and some pleasant conversation with a server there named Walter.

Then I retired to my room, packed up my things and prepared for my flight to Cusco the next day!

My photos of Lima:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172500...7628353318733/

Just a note -- there might be a mistake in my next-to-last post. Re-reading my description of la Iglesia de Santo Domingo, it suddenly seems doubtful that it would have taken 20 years to complete the ceiling, especially since I believe the guide said that many people worked on it. Googling it is not turning up anything, though. If anyone knows more about this, please jump in with the correct details!

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Tuesday, Nov. 22 - Lima to Ollanta
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It was with reluctance that I checked out of the Bolivar. Besides feeling that I could have easily used another couple of days in the city, I had really enjoyed the hotel itself, despite its little quirks. In fact, of all the hotels I stayed at in Perú, this is the one I most want to return to.

My flight was scheduled for about 10, and I got there a little before 8. Upon arriving at the Taca counter I met an American family, and an American couple. While waiting for the airline's domestic check-in counter to open, we became engrossed in conversation, and later I felt fortunate to have met all of these people, because our flight ended up getting delayed for several hours. As the morning and then afternoon wore on, it was nice having these kindred spirits to talk to -- all had interesting stories and travel experiences to share. So what might have been a boring few hours was actually quite memorable.

At the Cusco airport, I was met by Eloy, a driver I had arranged for through El Albergue. I was impressed that the pickup went seamlessly, despite my flight's long delay. Originally, I had wanted to stop at Salineras and Moray on the way to the hotel, but given the time (it was about 3), Eloy and I both thought it was too late, and we just headed for Ollantaytambo, which is about a two-hour drive.

At one point during the trip, we came around a bend and in the distance below us was a town surrounded by soaring green mountains. Overheard, the sky was gray, and after a moment a thunderclap punctuated the air. It was very dramatic! I asked Eloy the name of the town and he said “Urubamba,” obviously pleased that I was so impressed. As it turned out, this is his hometown.

We chatted off and on during the drive. I asked Eloy if he speaks Quechua and he said it's his first language. As we drove through the countryside and small towns, I noticed the word “Keiko” in big letters on the sides of many buildings – the name struck me as familiar, but Eloy had to remind me of Keiko Fujimori, who lost the recent presidential election. These had been signs of support for her.

We arrived at El Albergue and I got all checked in. El Albergue was exactly as I had imagined it. My room had dark wooden furniture with perfect white bedding. There was a writing desk, fresh flowers, and complimentary water. My room (#15) also had a great view of the mountains on one side; the windows on the other side looked out across a common garden area to other rooms, so I ended up keeping those shutters closed most of the time. The room was larger than I needed, but I had chosen it after e-mailing the hotel and asking which room would be both quiet and have a good view, and this was one of the ones suggested -- overall a good choice, I think.

After getting unpacked, I had dinner at the hotel's restaurant. For some reason, I chose fettuccine with pesto – usually I avoid pasta if there’s another vegetarian option, but I was in the mood for comfort food. As it turned out, the entrée was just OK, but I really liked the complimentary potato appetizer, and the pisco sour was tasty and strong. There was only one other party dining, but otherwise the atmosphere was nice -- the tables were lit by tapered candles, and the view of the train platform made the setting unique. A musician provided entertainment -- very relaxing.

Really am enjoying reading this!!

Thank you so much, Debbiekep!

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Wednesday, Nov. 23 - Ollanta
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During my first morning at El Albergue, I decided that the bed in my room was miraculous and that the plumbing was a bit dodgy. (Nothing terrible happened, but the toilet made me a little nervous, and the shower went ice-cold one time before coming back a few minutes later.) Given some of the much-worse shower problems people have in Perú, overall I thought it was a good tradeoff. ; )

For my first full day in Ollanta, I wanted to explore the ruins. First I had breakfast at El Albergue, which was excellent: fresh papaya and kiwi, scrambled eggs, toast, juice, and coffee. My server was the same pleasant person who had waited on me the night before. I never got her name, but she brought me every meal I had at El Albergue and was always wonderful.

Before visiting the ruins, I wanted to buy a pair of sunglasses – the sun was so bright! – so I walked into town and headed for the square. At the shop where I bought the glasses, I noticed that the proprietress also was selling Kingston memory cards. I felt I was going through memory a lot quicker than I’d expected, so I asked her how much she charged for 8GB. She said 125 soles. About 20 minutes later, I saw another shop closer to the ruins selling the exact same card for 90 soles, so I guess the moral is shop around (or bring enough with you!).

My first impression of Ollanta was that it was more touristy than I had been expecting. It felt a bit odd to look around the centuries-old settlement -- or at least the most heavily traveled parts of it -- and see so many iPhone-wielding visitors (and so much business geared directly to them). As a tourist myself, perhaps I shouldn't complain about a place being touristy, especially since it's the "touristy-ness" of a location that means you can do things like buy extra memory even though you're up in the Andes! I think I just had expected it to be a bit more sleepy.

So, that was my first impression -- the following day I spent more time exploring some of the town's quieter paths, and that was a lot better. In fact, nice as El Albergue is, walking through the quieter parts of Ollanta made me wonder if I should have found lodging in one of *these* areas -- perhaps doing so might have let me better soak up the feeling of the town, and get more of a sense of what makes it special. Maybe next time.

Anyway... at the ruins, I bought my boleto turistico, and almost immediately a woman came up to me to ask if I wanted a guide. My feelings were mixed. I like to walk around ruins at my own pace, but I didn’t know that much about this site, so I decided to use her services. I paid her 60 soles for two hours.

My guide's English wasn’t great, but I really enjoyed her company. She told me a lot of interesting things about the ruins, pointing out some of the finer stonework, for example, and showing me small outcroppings in stones that might have been used as handholds while construction was still in progress. But more than that, it was just fun talking at length to someone from Perú. For instance, she told me a little about what it was like living there during the internal conflict. She also asked me about the native tribes of North America, and I thought her questions were really interesting. After quite a lengthy hike up the hillside, we sat for a while staring at the view to the northwest, and she told me that sometimes she likes to walk way to the end of the ruins and just be by herself, which I thought sounded just like me!

After the tour, I was both hungry and out of money, so I walked back to El Albergue to get some cash from my room. While at the hotel, I used a tiny laptop they have at the front desk to try to figure out what was wrong with the international phone that I bought prior to the trip, and which had stopped working as soon as I entered Perú. Finding no immediate answers, I e-mailed the company, then I walked back into town and had a piece of cake at the Hearts Café, and wrote in my journal for a while.

While at the ruins, my guide had pointed out people walking around the “other” ruins on the hillside opposite us, but it wasn’t clear to me exactly how to get to that site. I could tell the general direction, but didn't want to wander down someone's private property or anything -- it looked like you had to go through a residential area. After consulting the Lonely Planet guidebook and seeing nothing there that helped, I walked to the visitors' office on the main square and they gave me a map. They also mentioned that the walk through this area, called Pincuyllana, takes about three hours round trip. It was about 4:30, so I decided it might be better to go the next day.

Afterward I walked back to El Albergue and gathered up my things so I could be ready to check out the next morning. Then I headed back to the hotel's restaurant for my second dinner there. Perhaps for variety, I should have tried someplace else, but I hadn't really researched other dining veggie options, and I was curious about a Peruvian vegetarian entrée on the El Albergue menu. The entrée was a quinoa-potato dish, and to be honest it did not turn out to be that exciting, but at least I could say I finally had a meal that was more Peruvian than Italian or Chinese! Also, I was again served a complimentary appetizer (cheese and olives -- yum), and the restaurant was hopping with people this time.

After the leisurely meal, I spent some time reading a book I'd brought with me about the Incas, before drifting into a sound sleep in that awesome bed.

Sasark - looking forward to your comments on La Piccola Locanda as we are staying there in two weeks. But no hurry ... very nice report.

Thanks, colduphere! I’ll talk more about la Piccola Locanda more when I get to Cusco, but my general feeling about it was that it was a good value, despite some quirks (including its location at the top of a steep pedestrian-only road, and noisiness on a few nights). Breakfast was simple but good, and overall the staff was friendly, though their approach is definitely more hostel-style than hotel-style. The immediate area is not very remarkable, but it is convenient to the Plaza de Armas.

I loved my room (“Biblioteca”) -- this was my favorite thing about the hotel. The room was decorated with bright colors, interesting photos, a writing desk, and a comfortable bed. One of the windows looked onto the Plaza de Armas. My room was on a corner, so it actually had windows on two walls, which was nice – the views were especially pretty at nighttime, with the lights sparkling all over the hillsides. Just be aware that when they say on the Spanish version of their web site that the rooms have "balcones," this apparently does not translate to "balconies." (Don't trust Google Translate on this!) That is, these are not terraces that you can go out onto – they are tall windows, stretching almost to the floor, with flower boxes at the base. They actually are very pretty.

As a sidenote, the taxi driver taking me there for the first time had a lot of trouble figuring out where to drop me off, even though I gave him the exact address – I guess it’s hard for them to know exactly, since the street is pedestrian-only and there's no way to drive directly to the right spot. I figured out later it’s best to tell taxi drivers to drop you at la Iglesia de San Cristóbal. From there you can walk down to the hotel.

Thanks Sasark - they sent us instructions on what to tell the taxi drivers. I think they said what you said. We are travelling with three tenagers so hostel is good. And the stairs ... well we might as well get used to them as we start the Inca Trail after 4 nights at the hotel.

Ah yes, good training!!

Nice work sasark, I look forward to more. The plaza where Bolivar is located, and the downtown center of Lima seem to have improved even more in the past year, with the implementation of the Metropolitano transit system.

I was able to visit some of Lima museums requiring a reservation or travel agent.. Casa Aliaga, Museo Amano and the astonishing Enrico Poli collection.

I think Amano would be possible to visit as an individual by writing or calling ahead. What a fantastic collection of Chancay textiles.

If anyone has questions about the Metropolitano or the special museums, before I can get around to a trip report, please ask.

Sasark- Do you have the contact info for Gran Hotel Bolivar and Andina Luxury Hotel?

Thanks mlgb! It sounds like you had a great trip! How awesome to go inside Casa Aliaga -- I can't wait to hear more!

gg, I do not have direct contact info for either of those hotels. However, for the Bolivar, if you write to Tambos Peru ([email protected]), they might be able to answer your questions. (I made my reservation through booking.com, and that was the contact listed in the confirmation e-mail -- apparently it is just a management company that handles the hotel's reservations.) Anyway, I wrote to that e-mail address to arrange my airport pickup and verify that I could check in late, all of which went smoothly.

With Andina Luxury, if it helps, I booked through http://www.machu-picchu-hotel.travel...-accommodation and it was problem-free.

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Thursday, Nov. 24 - Ollanta to Aguas Calientes
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My day started with another great breakfast at El Albergue. Then I turned in my room key and checked my luggage for the day.

As I was leaving, a guy at the front desk mentioned that from the hotel there's a nice walk that takes you across the river and up to some Inca terraces. These are on a hillside to the southwest of town. From there, you are supposed to be able to see a pyramid shape in the landscape that points toward the Temple of the Sun. (My guide the previous day had also mentioned this -- she presented it as one of those things that might be intentional or might be accidental, but fun to think about either way.) I decided I would go there if I could get back from Pinkuyllana in time.

So, next: Pinkuyllana! It was easy to find with the map. You basically walk through some quiet residential areas, and follow a path up a hillside. The walk has some steep drop-offs, however, and I hadn't been going long when I realized my fear of heights might be a problem. After some internal debate, I decided to turn back. As I was returning, I realized that the path branches -- I hadn't noticed this when starting out. I decided to try going in the other direction (to the south) and this was a lot better. I spent a few hours exploring this hillside and about 10-12 structures placed along it at various heights. I had the area all to myself, which was fun. I also enjoyed the views of the town and of the other ruins.

Afterward, I walked around the area of town right in front of the trail entrance, then headed north, away from the town center. These paths were very quiet, with not much sound other than that of water rushing through small canals built into the cobblestone walkways. I almost felt like I was intruding, which made me wonder what it would have been like to stay in this area (and "belong" there). I walked past the Apu Lodge and it looked very peaceful.

Eventually I headed back toward El Albergue, with some reluctance (I realized I probably wouldn't see the town again). But I wanted to check the directions to the terraces and also to get a snack. After doing both, I was off.

So, to get to the terraces, you walk south along the train tracks until reaching a bridge. You cross the bridge and then follow an uphill path that runs northwest. It drizzled a little while I was walking, but I liked the excursion. It was fun to see the town and both sets of ruins from a distance. The area was very secluded and I wondered if it was smart to be doing this alone, but things seemed fine (though I did see a dog that didn't look too happy with my presence).

Once I got to the terraces, I stopped to rest and take pictures. I have to admit, I couldn't really see the pyramid, but I liked the views. On the way back, the clouds cleared, and I could see the tip of an ice-peaked mountain to the north that was especially pretty.

I got back to El Albergue about 4:45 or so, which was well-timed for me -- as a slightly nervous traveler, I had wanted to be back well ahead of boarding time (6:30). I stood at the outdoor bar on the train platform, ordered a Cuzqueño, the local beer, and chatted with the guy working there, Cristian. In the course of conversation, he asked if I'd had a chance to see the town at night, when it's lit up with street lights and apparently very attractive. Ack -- no, I hadn't! Ah well, another reason to return.

While we were standing there, an Australian couple came by to see if the restaurant was open and were told it was closed for the whole night. I was surprised, then learned that the people were inside celebrating Thanksgiving! I had known that El Albergue is owned by Americans, but I had completely forgotten it was Thanksgiving.

As it turns out, the holiday spirit was very much with this family, as evidenced when one of them came out and asked me and Cristian if we wanted Thanksgiving plates and then asked another very thoughtful question. ("Any dietery restrictions?" -- a query a vegetarian appreciates...) Moments later, a huge plate of wonderful vegetarian foods was brought to me (and a regular plate brought to Cristian). Talk about hospitality!! Some time later, plates of pastries appeared as well, and Cristian made cappuccino. As we ate and chatted, the shadows grew longer and eventually the light started to fade. I decided the platform looked especially romantic at this time of day.

Finally it was almost 6:30. Cristian kept telling me I had plenty of time and should wait to board until closer to the train's departure time (7:00), but that's just not the way I roll! So I said goodbye to him and joined the masses lining up outside Car A.

I was near the front of the line, and right behind me were three Chinese people. I used to study Mandarin Chinese, but it was a long time ago and I honestly couldn't tell whether they were speaking Mandarin or not. I asked them in Spanish if they spoke Spanish. They said only a little and that they were from Macau. When I said I was from "los Estados Unidos," they didn't seem to understand. Then boarding began, things got a bit hectic, and the conversation was lost.

Seats are assigned on these trains, so I boarded and walked up and down looking for my place. When I finally found it, I was happy to see it was next to the three travelers from Macau, who greeted me warmly. They again asked me where I was from and motioned for me to open my passport. When I did, the man said, "oh, the US -- so you speak English?" This was said in perfect English, and we laughed about our previous struggles to chat. So began the pleasant train ride. It was too dark to enjoy the views, but it was fun talking to the people seated around me, which also included the Australian couple who had been seeking dinner at El Albergue.

It's hard to describe the upbeat mood of the train that night. It was as if there was an electricity generated by all these people looking forward to seeing the same unique place -- everyone seemed happy, excited, and completely easygoing. You don't always get that on a crowded train!

When we got to Aguas Calientes, I said goodbye to my new friends and looked for the person meeting me from Andina Luxury. Most of the hotel representatives had signs showing guests' names, but I didn't seem my name anywhere. Finally I saw a sign with the names of *hotels* listed, and my hotel was on that list. So I joined the hotel guy and, after waiting for a few other guests, we set off on the short walk to Andina Luxury.

I got checked in, and was glad to see my room was very cozy. The river was right outside, and the sound of rushing water was soothing. While "luxury" might be a bit of an overstatement, I liked the room quite a bit.

I spent some time getting ready for the next morning (laying out my clothes, counting out some cash, packing a wallet with my MP ticket, etc. -- that sort of thing). Finally I fell into bed exhausted and... couldn't sleep! Then I realized -- cappuccino! I never drink it in the afternoon, so the caffeine was having its way with me. Ah well! It wasn't too bad and eventually I fell into a deep sleep.

The bed was incredibly comfortable, and one of my last thoughts before drifting off was that it was a shame I would never sleep in here. But my alarm was set for 4:30 -- Machu Picchu couldn't wait!

Some photos of Ollanta:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172500...7628438312971/

Great report sasark! I also stayed at the Gran Bolivar and can't believe you did too! The bed IS hard but worth it imo; it was a STEAL of a price for the location and the grand old glamour of the place. I loved El Albargue as well. I really enjoyed the dynamics of watching all the trains coming in in the morning and the buzz of excitement as people jockeyed to climb on for the highlight experience of their Peruvian adventure. I know what you mean by the electricity on that train ride; I probably had it tenfold self-contained just within myself! I could not stop marveling and smiling/beaming during that ride to MP. Looking forward to the rest of your adventures...

Thanks ncounty! Yes, I loved that hotel and now want to find someplace just like it in Buenos Aires -- and maybe Madrid, though I'm guessing wherever I end up in Madrid will cost a bit more! By the way, I noticed in your trip report it cost you only $28?! I'm impressed! How did you book the room? I paid $68 per night, though honestly I still thought that was cheap, given the location and all the other positives.

I think it must have been luck and timing and season, sasark; it went up to about $40 shortly after I booked it. I wanted to experience it just for the $28 bragging rights, lol! Although I wrote that I couldn't recommend it due to the hard beds (as you also noted), I would totally stay there again. It is just not for most people who need more creature comforts than I do. I booked the room through one of the customary sites, can't remember which. I usually use kayak or venere.

I loved Soho in BA; that would be my preferred area to stay there.

Madrid is so much fun; you've got some great adventures ahead! Don't miss a day trip to Toledo. I have some wonderful pictures from there.

Thanks for sharing your photos of Ollanta ... especially Pinkuyllana. We'd hoped to do the hike up there, but ran out of time ... reason to go back someday.

ncounty, thanks so much for the BA and Madrid recommendations! I lived near Madrid when I was a child, but my memories of the city are hazy. I am looking forward to experiencing it again....

eenusa, you're most welcome! It's hard to fit in everything, isn't it? Ah well -- we try!

-------------------------------------------
Friday, Nov. 25 - Aguas Calientes
===========================

I was keyed up but also a bit sleepy as I sipped a weak coffee Friday morning at Andina Luxury. Besides this disappointing brew, the hotel offered a large and varied buffet, which was adequate but not much more. On the upside, the woman tending it was very friendly. It was about 5:30, and two or three other parties shared the cavernous breakfast room with me. Against one wall was a loud flat-screen TV. Out front was a nice view of the rushing river.

While I'm thinking of it, a few other comments about the hotel: The common areas of the hotel, in particular the large circular stairway in the center of the building, were always dark. Also, though I liked my room, the bathroom was odd -- the shower had no door or curtain. The water-spillage wasn't as bad as I was expecting, but the open concept made the shower experience a little strange. As a side note, at $110 a night, this hotel was the most expensive I booked in Perú. But despite the cost and little quirks, I was glad I stayed there. When initially researching options in Auguas Calientes, I came across so many inns that got bad reviews, and the problems mentioned (bugs, ice-cold showers, noise) were just not ones that I wanted to deal with. I'm sure there are other good options, but Andina Luxury worked well for me.

Anyway, after breakfast, I walked to the bus stop and bought a round-trip ticket. It was about 6 at this point -- I'd missed the earliest bus by a half hour -- but I was glad to see lots of buses lined up and one leaving every few minutes. There were quite a few people waiting on the sidewalk, but not a mob.

The bus trip took about 30 minutes. As we arrived, I saw guests milling about, and guides offering their services. I hesitated -- should I have a guide? I considered it, but I wanted to be able to go through the ruins at my own pace, and I also had a detailed book ("The Machu Picchu Guidebook: A Self-Guided Tour"). So I decided to go solo, and this turned out to be a good choice.

I continued on, got my ticket stamped, and -- wow! It wasn't far to that first spot where you can see most of the ruins spread out before you. A grey-white mist hung in the air, so I couldn't see absolutely everything right away, but I didn't need to! It was breathtaking. I have seen American ruins before, but nothing that comes close to the size and completeness of Machu Picchu. Besides that, the mountains rising all around the city make the sight so dramatic. It reminded me of the first time I saw the Acropolis, also in the early morning, coincidentally. That was an all-time great travel moment, and this was too. Wow!

The rest of the day was amazing. I spent hours exploring the site, staying basically until closing time, pausing occasionally to chat with people I'd met previously along the tourist route. I didn't really eat lunch, but I visited the outdoor lunch counter twice for snacks. The weather was sunny and beautiful all day.

I decided to walk through the ruins in a generally clockwise direction, starting from the guardhouse. I also did a side trip to the Inca drawbridge, which was about a 20-minute walk away each way from the main site. The drawbridge area is interesting and it's a lot less crowded than other parts of Machu Picchu (so if you have yet to visit, this might be good if you want a break from the throngs during the day). By the time I returned from the drawbridge, the mist had cleared, and the view of the city was spectacular!

Next I went through the city structures, starting with the "main gate," then down to the area that houses the Temple of the Sun. This area was very busy, and I had to wait for several tour groups to go through. If you are at Machu Picchu early, it might not be a bad idea to visit this area first, particularly if you want to get photos that don't include lots of people. As a side note, it was here that I first experienced that awful feeling when you realize that you have inadvertently stepped into someone's picture -- lots of people were trying to get photos of the temple, the cave below it, and so on. Fortunately everyone I encountered was good-natured.

Near this area is a staircase with a lot of fountains, which I loved. The sound of falling water was very peaceful. It was also around this time I saw my first llamas stepping delicately through the agricultural terraces. They are so agile -- it was fun to watch them wander confidently up narrow staircases and byways.

From there I headed up to the rock quarry, then into the Sacred Plaza. A guy who worked at the site offered to tell me about the plaza, which was nice, but then it seemed like he didn't want to leave my side, so I left, making a mental note to return the next day.

I went along, walking up to the Intiwatana. My book's explanation of this sundial-like structure was a little convoluted -- I'm still not sure what it was for. However, the book pointed out one thing I really liked, which were two "image stones" -- stones meant to represent the mountains in the distance. I took some pictures of these, then went out onto the large empty platform just beyond the Intiwatana. This area was very peaceful. It was nice to sit for a while, look at the rich green expanse running through the city, and imagine it filled with people (guests today are pretty much kept off the grass in the center of the site).

After a bit I crossed the main plaza and found the sacred rock. Unfortunately, at this point, a guy -- another solo traveler whom I'd met earlier -- came along and sort of attached himself to me. Unlike the guide at the Sacred Plaza, this person was harder to get rid of. Fortunately, it was late, so it wasn't too long before we realized that Machu Picchu was closing for the day and we had to leave the site.

As we walked out, it occurred to me that Machu Picchu is particularly beautiful in the late afternoon, with the rich golden light and long shadows. It had also really cleared out of people – I felt luck to have been able to stay late.

Upon exiting, I noticed visitors getting their passports marked with a Machu Picchu stamp, so I made sure I got that.

My unwanted companion stuck by my side all the way to Aguas Calientes, when he pointedly said he had no idea how he would pass the hour until his train back to Cusco. I politely wished him luck and headed back in the direction of Andina Luxury.

On the way, I stopped to look at a restaurant menu. A woman who spoke no English tried to entice me inside, and we conversed entirely in Spanish about different vegetarian options. In just the few days I'd been in Perú, my Spanish was so much better! Very exciting.

I did end up eating there, and the meal (pizza) was just OK, but I enjoyed the view of the river and the cheerful colors of the restaurant. Afterwards, I headed back to the hotel and chatted for a while with the desk clerk, David, then headed to my room to wash up. I was sad to realize my hands were sunburned -- pretty badly, too. I had covered up everywhere else and had applied sunscreen in the morning, but I guess I forgot to re-apply. Oh, well. If you’re going, be careful!

What a highlight experience! I think you made the right choice to do MP on your own and take your time. I can just imagine how it must have looked in the late afternoon golden sun.

Thanks, ncounty -- yes, I loved it!

----------------------------------------------
Saturday, Nov. 26 - Aguas Calientes
=============================

Because November is the rainy season, I had arranged for two days at Machu Picchu, just to be on the safe side. As it turned out, the first day's weather was fantastic, but I was still glad I had the second day. Going through the site took longer than I expected (though this may not be your experience -- I am the sort of person who reads every placard in a museum).

Anyway, the second day I again got there pretty early -- around 6:30. I decided to start with a return trip to the Sacred Plaza and Intiwatana, to see if I could get some better photos of it before it was crowded (mission accomplished...). Then I went to the buildings along the eastern side of the site.

I spent several hours walking all around this area, which included some residences, more storehouses, and the building with the mortars (bowl-liked formations that fill with water and might have had an astronomical purpose). I especially liked an area that my guidebook said may have been used as a place for handicrafts. I am an artist and I love crafts, so I decided that was one of my favorite parts of Machu Picchu. ; )

Later I went behind these buildings and noticed a steep narrow staircase leading down to some terraces. As I stepped down it, a park employee called to me, "con cuidado" -- be careful. The lower levels of these terraces were very peaceful and also offered some privacy from the crowds. I saw a trio of people sunbathing there -- I don't sunbathe, but this would be a great place to while away an afternoon.

I climbed back up, and the park guide asked if I would like to see an area that had something to do with "las momias." He spoke no English but after some Q&A I figured out he meant "mummies." I agreed, and he led me back down the stairs to an outdoor area that had bowl-like indentations in the ground, which he said were for children's bodies. Next he led me to several other caves that he said were for mummies. After that, we visited the Intimachay, the cave altered by the Incas so that it would be pierced by light on and around the December solstice, but at no other other times. It was here that the park guide gave me some coca leaves and said I could leave them as an offering, which I did.

By this time, the weather had turned and a light rain was falling, so I put on the rain poncho I had bought for 5 soles in Ollanta.

I thanked the park guide and went back out on my own, going back through some of the other buildings. The main place I still needed to visit was the Temple of the Condor, which was as crowded as the Temple of the Sun. If you haven't seen it, this temple hosts a formation on the ground meant to represent the body of the condor. Up against two walls are long, dramatic formations that symbolize the wings. It's really quite beautiful and you can understand why the area is probably often crowded.

Eventually, it was time to leave. Reluctantly, I started made my way toward the exit, and back onto the bus. I had a ticket on the 6:45 o'clock train to Ollanta, where I needed to pick up my bag and get in a taxi for Cusco. One of the staff at El Albergue had said she'd help me with a taxi (though this probably wasn't necessary to arrange in advance -- there are taxis all around). When I got there, she said she'd arranged a colectivo to take me for 10 soles. In the colectivo, I was sardined in amongst about six other people, with my bag on my lap and no way to move my arms -- but the price was right, I guess. The driver dropped us at the Plaza de Armas, and it was as beautiful as I'd been expecting.

I hailed a taxi and asked him if he knew where my hotel was. He said that he did, but judging from the number of times he stopped to ask directions, it seems unlikely. I figured out later that the hotel, La Piccola Locanda, is on a pedestrian-only street, so that makes it harder for drivers to find. Eventually he dropped me and my luggage off on a side street and told me that I was close, giving me some directions that I didn't totally understand but had a few more turns than I really cared for. Vowing to pack lighter in the future, I hauled my bags up and set out looking for the inn.

While I was walking, two guys looked at me sympathetically and asked if I wanted help. I thanked them but said no. They kept walking but then turned around and asked if I was sure. I paused... I'd gotten up at 4:30 am., and I was pretty tired. I like to be self-sufficient, but now I said OK.

So these two came back. One of them picked up my large bag, carrying it all the way down the street we were on, then onto Calle Resbolosa. We walked all the way down the steep staircase, only to discover at the bottom that La Piccola Locanda was on the *other* end of the street, so we had to go all the way back up the stairs! They took turns carrying the bag, resting occasionally, but never letting me carry it. Finally we got to the inn. I told my two helpers that I felt I owed them a drink, so they waited while I tossed my stuff in my room. Then we went around the corner to a bar and had pisco sours. These guys were from Lima, and just staying in Cusco for a few days -- in fact they were going to Machu Picchu themselves the next day. When they asked me about Machu Picchu, one of the things I mentioned was that I had loved watching the llamas wander around the ruins. I must have gotten some words wrong, because they asked me to repeat myself and when I finally communicated that I thought the llamas were very agile, the way they could easily walk up steep staircases, one of my companions exclaimed, "Just like us!" which made us all laugh. Anyway, it was really fun, but I couldn't believe it when I looked at my watch and saw it was around 1.

My new friends offered to walk me back to the hotel. On the way we stopped to take photos in front of the cathedral. There were so many people out and about, I asked if something was going on, but apparently this is just a normal Saturday night in Cusco. Finally, we all said goodbye, and I went exhausted to my room, grateful to have received assistance in reaching it!

My photos of Machu Picchu:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7172500...7628472037977/

Great report Sasark. I am looking forward to seeing how hard it is to find La Piccola Locanda. It looks easy on the map and so close to the main square. Mind you we have thought the same thing about every hotel in every city we have visited.

Thanks colduphere. I think as long as you remember the name of the church, you will be fine. My mistake was in just writing down the address, glancing at the map without remembering a lot of key details, and getting a taxi driver who didn't know the inn or Calle Resbolosa very well. I did recall that there was a church nearby, but I couldn't remember the name, and of course there are many churches in Cusco! If I were you, I would probably take a printout of the map just to be sure, but it sounds like you will be fine.

wow, you were so lucky to have those two guys help you out, sasark. I had similar problems finding my way back to my hotel one night but it was just carrying a light purse. Thank god for young gentlemen.

Yes, they were very gracious! It was definitely good luck.

Sasark - we have now done the stairs up to Piccola Locanda twice. It certainly is a lot harder than it looked in the pictures I had seen. Maybe it will be easier after we acclimatize a bit.

I had similar steep stairs to climb to my place in Agua Calienete called Rupawasi. Tough with luggage; glad I had help. Hope it gets easier, cold. Fun to be following your travels!

Colduphere -- ugh, I hope it gets better. And I know what you mean; I thought I would be fine with the stairs, but I found them really exhausting and annoying. In fact, there were nights I wanted to head back to my room and change clothes before dinner, but I generally ended up skipping that just because I didn't want to face the stairs.

Related to this, I never took altitude medication in Cusco, which I now think was a mistake. You may want to check and see if they have coca tea at breakfast (it looked like they did when I was there). That might help a bit.

Sasark - Yes they have coca tea all day. Today we went to Pisac and other places and got as high as 12100. I think everyone is now doing pretty well with altitude. There are just steep slopes everywhere that would be tough at home (altitude 240 feet).

Sorry to intrude on your thread Sasark. But just one more thing. Ncounty tomorrow is rafting up above Cuzco. Nothing higher than 3.5 we are told.

--------------------------------
Sunday, Nov. 27 - Cusco
====================

My first night's sleep at La Piccola Locanda didn't go so well. I was awakened a couple of times during the night, probably by the sound of revelers from Calle Resbalosa, though I'm not sure. Then my attempt to sleep in was thwarted by loud people in the hallways, and by the sound of the hotel doorbell, which managed to pierce my sleep even though I was on the second floor. (The door to La Piccola Locanda is always locked, and you can only get in by ringing a doorbell.)

Eventually I got up and wandered into the communal bathroom to take a shower. The bathrooms were spotless, but small. There's no place to put your stuff other than the floor or on the toilet (from which they have a tendency to slide off). Some of the guest rooms do have their own bathrooms, though, so you could avoid this easily enough.

Anyway, these negatives were offset by the fact that my room was really beautiful, decorated nicely and with wonderful views. I also liked the breakfast room, which was cozy and warm -- pretty much the opposite of the breakfast room at Andina Luxury. And though the selection was less varied, the food was far better. The rolls, jams, and cheese all tasted fresh and very good. That first morning we also had a plateful of toffee-flavored squares that were rich and delicious. The breakfast room has a couple of wired PCs, so you can check your e-mail or get online for whatever else you need. (It's best to do this in the morning, because this room is locked up in the evening. I think they will open it up for a small fee, but I just used the PCs in the morning to avoid the hassle.)

Originally I had planned to spend the day at Pisac, but following two long days at Machu Picchu, I didn't want to be in the midst of crowds, nor to walk around ruins. Instead, I dropped off some laundry at a lavanderia across the street from the hotel, then headed down to the Plaza de Armas to explore. As luck would have it, something was going on... in the center of the plaza, a guy and a woman wearing red, black, and white costumes were speaking into microphones to a crowd. Eventually I figured out that they were holding some sort of Quechua tournament, or demonstration. People from the crowd would come forward, were shown pictures, and described the pictures in Quechua. On the ground in the center of the crowd were placards showing the letters of the alphabet, and participants used to them to spell out words on a board, Wheel-of-Fortune style. I thought the highlight of the event was when a girl from the crowd stepped forward and sang a song in Quechua a capella.

I watched for quite a while, then decided to go back to my room for my hat (the sun was brutal). Ugh, what a haul up those stairs! Maybe at a lower altitude it wouldn't seem so bad, but I vowed not to forget anything else in my room for the duration of my stay.

I wandered around the square a bit more, was approached by several vendors wanting to sell me things, and eventually sought refuge in a small cafe with a balcony overlooking the plaza. The restaurant was called Señor Aji. Here I had a banana juice and solterito cusqueña, a bean and vegetable dish that was excellent. While I sat there, the weather turned. First there was thunder, then a wind that was surprisingly icy. The staff hurried to shut the balcony doors so we wouldn't all freeze.

After the rain let up, I went across the plaza to tour the cathedral. I bought the boleto religioso and was told that I could listen to a recorded audio tour via a little device that they lend you. The cathedral staff requires identification for this, so be sure to take a copy of your passport if you want the audio tour, which I thought was worthwhile.

Following the cathedral, I went back to the hotel to put on warmer clothes, then walked around some more. The vendors in the square were incredibly aggressive, which is unfortunate because the square is so beautiful, but not a particularly pleasant place to be (or at least that was my experience).

Eventually I stopped for dinner at a restaurant called Tobasco, which was near the plaza. I went in because a sign out front advertised papas a la huancaina, which is one of several vegetarian dishes that were recommended to me by a Peruvian passenger on my flight from Houston to Lima. It was a potato dish with peppers, onions, and cheese -- very good. The service, however, was forgetful, so I didn't linger too long.

Afterward I went back to the lavanderia for my clothes, then returned to the hotel, making it a pretty early evening, though the night sky was already black. I was really struck by how beautiful Cusco looked from my room, with the city lights rising up all around. It does make you feel that you're at the center of the world, in a way.

colduphere, I just saw your last post! No apologies needed -- I'm glad it's going better with the altitude.

Have fun rafting, ncounty -- be careful!