Feedback on Peru Itinerary, Please
 

We are planning a trip to Peru for November. We are mostly interested in Incan ruins. Here is my plan:

Fly to Lima, arrive 11:30pm
Two nights in Lima (free nights at the Marriott)
Flight to Cusco
Three nights in the Sacred Valley (Tambo del Inka)
Three nights in Cusco (Free nights at the Marriott)
Hiram Bingham Train to Machu Picchu
Two nights at the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge
(we will visit Machu Picchu on three days)
Hiram Bingham Train to Cusco
Overnight in Cusco (free night at the Marriott)
Andean Explorer Train to Puno
Three nights at Titilaka
Fly to Lima
Fly home (flight leaves at 1 am)

Thoughts about the itinerary or the hotels? Any recommendations?

Hi Kathie

A pretty good plan! - I would expect nothing less from you :-)

JW Marriott, Lima- excellent location overlooking the Larcomar centre and the sea in Miraflores. Has a decent restaurant with an excellent lunch buffet. Great to start checking out Peruvian cuisine in the safety of your hotel! Lots more, mostly chain type restaurants across the road in Larcomar. A 20 min walk or 5 min cab to Barranco ( although you will probably want to spend a full day in the Centro Historico.

Tambo de Inka is in Urumbamba (as are most of the lux. Hotels). Not as nice as Ollantaytambo but far less touristy these days. The plaza de Armas and central market are worth a look for a taste of local life.

Sanctuary Lodge - hope you managed to get a deal,! One night in MP would be enough for me but November is the beginning of the rainy season so you are doubling your chances of getting good weather.

Cusco. Marriott is a nice property and as central as it gets. Some great buildings right on the doorstep. I would add at least a night to Cusco as there is so much to see given your interest in Inca ruins. In addition to the many sites of interest, museums etc. In the city, Tambo Machay and Sacsayhuaman should not be missed. Also Pisac is definitely worthy of consideration and is better reached from Cusco than the Sacred Valley.

Rather than taking the train to Puno, I would go via the Inka Express tour bus which takes around the same time but stops at many sites along the way before arriving in Puno at 17.00. It follows the same route as the train through the most amazing scenery but I feel you will see a lot more.

I think three nights in Puno is one too many. The trip to Uros and Taquile etc. Takes a full day. The only reason to spend an extra night is if you want a night on the islands. Puno itself has little to commend it IMO.

I have no doubt you will have a great time in Peru.

Thanks so much for you comments, crellston. It appears I can get the Sanctuary Lodge for much less than I originally thought. I don't yet have complete bids from agencies. We are combining expensive experiences with free nights. This will be my first post-retirement trip, so decided to splurge.

Hey Kathie, surprised to see you here. Planning a trip to Peru and Brazil myself. I'm going late-July / early-August, as things calm down a bit after the World Cup. My Peru leg is similar to yours: 3 nights in Lima, 3 in the Sacred Valley, 2 in Aguas Calientes, 3 or 4 in Cuzco, and then onto Iguazu Falls and Rio. First time going to South America, so I'm pumped.

Looks like a good plan! I agree with Crellston's comments (haven't been to Puno so can't comment on that.)
Be sure to spend time in Pisac - I think their ruins are second only to MP. Also loved Ollantaytambo and is worth exploring the village and also has nice ruins.

Thanks for your comments. I think we will add another day to Cusco. There is so much to see and do in the area! I'm sending out our itinerary today for bids from two local companies.

This is our first trip to South America. I had planned a trip to Machu Picchu for 2001, but was in an car accident and realized I wouldn't be able to do what I wanted there. I had no idea how long it would be before I planned the trip again!

So does this mean you would take the train/bus to Puno, spend that night, the next day and night and then fly to Lima the third day? That is a long way to go for one full day. Perhaps I am misunderstanding.

No, we would spend three nights in Puno (or actually, outside of Puno). So we take the train to Puno, have two full days (and three nights) there, then fly to Lima the next afternoon. I know, it is still a long way to go, but we are expecting the train ride to be spectacular (and comfortable).

You know what they say, Kathie. Better later than never. I'm working with a company called Andean Treks for the Inca Trail portion of our trip and so far they've been quite responsive; we're only going to do a one-day trek, but plan on climbing MP Mountain. In the Sacred Valley, we're going to hire a car and driver.

Okay I thought perhaps you were taking your extra night in Cusco from Puno.

cold, I have flexibility in terms of time (since I'll be retired), so adding an extra day is no problem.

I've sent out my proposed itinerary to two local agencies, so I'll be interested to see how they compare.

Hi Kathie!

My husband and I are going to Peru for 8 days in April so I'm doing some planning right now myself.

We'll have 4 nights at the Tambo del Inka first (arriving there via overnight flight through Lima to Cusco on day 1), so I'll be able to tell you how it is. :-) We'll go see MP from there and explore the SV from there.

Then we have 2 nights in Cusco at a small hotel and then 2 nights in Lima at the Westin before flying home. Both SPG hotels are cash plus points which is nice. Unfortunately, the SPG hotel in Cusco was not available for C+P for our nights.
I'd love to stay at the Sanctuary Lodge, even for a night, but it was unavailable for the night I really wanted, and other nights around that time were <i>starting</i> at $1450 per night on their website!

Question about your itinerary...why start in the Sacred Valley, then go to Cusco, then back to SV to go to Machu Picchu? Seems like unnecessary back and forth. Why not go up to MP from Urubamba after your stay at the Tambo? Is it so you can take the Hiram Bingham train or is there another reason?

Also, I know how much you like taking your time exploring ruins, but I wonder if 3 days at MP might not be overkill? Are you planning on climbing Wayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain on one of those days?

Hi Kristina,

We are starting in the Sacred Valley because it's at lower altitude and hopefully will make acclimation easier. From what I've read, since we are taking the Hiram Bingham, either the Sacred Valley or Cusco will work. However, I'm open to suggestions, if something different works better.

BTW, Esme wrote a great review of Tambo del Inka - take a look at her report.

No, not planning on climbing Wayna Picchu or Machu Picchu Mountain. Have you seen the stairs of death? www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ezgkaRyVe8 Convinced me not to climb!

We will find out if 3 days at MP is overkill. A trip I wanted to take many years ago had two nights at MP.

Hi -- I just realized you are "the Kathie" who has given me such great advice on the Asia board.

In trims or order, is there a reason you have split your time in Cusco? It may make sense for you to go from Scared Valley to MP and then put all your time in Cusco after MP.

Yestravel, I do mostly hang out on the Asia board. I'm amazed at how many "Asia people" are here!

It might make sense to do it that way - that would eliminate the single night in Cusco between MP and Puno. I'm awaiting feedback from the two local agents I sent this to. I'm not attached to this order of things, just to the destinations and a goodly amount of time in each. I also may find I have some restrictions in terms of availability of places I want to stay. I know I have to time my Andean Explorer train right as it only runs three days a week.

Kathie I just posted an answer on your other question. Re Puno. We took the bus from Cusco to Puno and the scenery was fantastic. We spent one night in Puno because we arrived so late and then one night on the island of Amantani Island and then late back to Puno and and overnight again before we flew out.
We are in Chile now and doing the reverse, heading to Bolivia and then Lake Titicaca, again will overnight one night on the island and take the bus to Cusco. I plan to spend a couple of nights in Cusco, one night in Ollyantambo and a night in Agua Calliente (Macchu Picchu town) instead of the Sanctuary this time.
I doubt you are thinking of doing this, but just in case, you can also stay on one of the Reed Islands on Lake Titicaca as well. I would not suggest it, the huts are damp, moldy and I dont think it would be a great experience in my opinion
One other hint. I have never been so cold in my life as the night I spent on the island of Amantani. Bring warm socks and sweater to sleep in. We were there in June the first time however., but this time we are prepared for cold nights.
South America is fantastic. I love Asia as well, but we are having a blast here now.
Happy planning. .

Glad to hear you are having such a good time. I look forward to reading your report.

We are not going to do the homestay at Lake Titicaca. And the hotel we have chosen, the Titilaka, has heated floors!!! One of the reasons we chose it. Still, everyone has said it is cold at the lake and we will try to pack accordingly.

Kathie - I agree with crellston about taking the bus rather than the train. The train actually takes longer and the bus makes several stops on the way. We really enjoyed it - and were fortunate to have a bus that was only about half full.

I would definitely recommend an overnight stay on one of the islands. We used All Ways and would recommend them (although that was 7 years ago). Puno itself isn't worth much time - it's about getting out on the lake.

I'd also suggest considering staying in Ollantaytambo. A big advantage is the train ride to MP from there is significantly shorter than Cusco. And if you're staying in the Sacred Valley anyway, go directly to MP from there. I'd do that even if you stay in Urumbamba and take a cab to Ollanta to catch the train.

Don't miss the little museum at the bottom of the hill from MP. The bus driver will drop you off on the way back to town if you ask (and you'll have to walk back to town - but only about a half hour). Make sure the museum is still there - my info could be out of date. We loved it.

Lastly, if you'd like a guide/drive I'd recommend Percy Salas. Check my trip report for his contact info. He can do as much or little as you want. We really enjoyed our day going to the salt pans and Moray - the concentric circles. I think you'd really like that.

I think you'll love Peru.

Karen

Another guide to consider is David Choque who is a delight. I think he really enhanced our visit. http://www.cuscotoptravelperu.com

I had no idea there were so many Asia Board regulars planning trips to Peru. :-)
This will be our first trip to South America (our 6th continent!) but in July we are headed back to Cambodia (4th trip) and Burma (first time) because we just can't stay away. If anyone of you have been to Burma in the last year or so and have advice, let me know. I hear things change mighty fast there.

Kathie-I've seen Esme's review of the Tambo and it looks great. We are currently debating taking the train up to MP right from the hotel or going earlier from Ollantaytambo. The train schedule from the hotel is a bit limiting.
And YES, I've seen the stairs of death and there is NO WAY I'm climbing up there!
I'd be interested to hear what the tour companies suggest re: Cusco in between SV and MP.

Karen- I just read your trip report, it was great! Do you think the guide you used is still around? Do you have any current contact info for him? Or do you think he still uses that Hotmail address?

Hi Kristina, yes, I'm amazed at how many Asia board regulars are here!

We were last in Burma in 2011, but you may still find my trip reports useful. Burma is one of my favorite destinations! Have a wonderful time.

South America is the new Asia.

Kristina - you can contact Percy via Facebook. He's Percy Salas Alfaro.

Hi crosscheck! Any advice for me?

"South America is the new Asia." I am getting that printed on a tee shirt!!

Great Itinerary. I did almost exactly that in 2006!

Have an amazing time

Hi Kathie,

Although I go to S. America often, I haven't been to Peru since the mid '80s. On that trip I did the extreme 8-day Salcantay trek to MP (could NEVER handle that now), went to Arequipa for Halley's Comet sightings, and also visited Puno, Lake Titicaca, Lima, the Sacred Valley (exceptionally sacred and tourist-free then) and Lima. Other than a horrific earthquake in Cusco, it was one of my best trips ever.

We planned to go back last year for our older son's college graduation trip. But our younger son broke his finger the night before we were leaving and needed several procedures, so we had to cancel. (Yes, the same kid who fell off the elephant. He's fine now and instead we had quality family time in New Mexico.)

I did a lot of research and didn't use an agency. We are now thinking about re-booking for this summer, so I feel somewhat qualified to weigh in on your itinerary, since I spoke to many friend who had just gone and compulsively checked out every hotel, restaurant and activity:

1) Sacred Valley - Agree with everyone who says that you don't need to return to Cusco from the SV to get to MP. You can take the shorter train from Ollantaytambo and still experience the HB on the return to Cusco.

2) 3 days at MP - Knowing your passion for ruins and Cheryl's photography skills, three days are probably not too much. You can always hang out in Aguascalientes for the last half day.

3) 4 nights in Cusco - Good call. Magical city. Plenty to do there, and great side trips. My friends just spent a year going around the world and it was one of their top ten cities where they would like to live.

4) Bus vs. train to Puno - We took the bus and loved it and the scenery...but that was 25 years ago and I think there was something wrong with the train. Can't remember where we stayed exactly, but it was indeed a cold hut. I think they had just invented fleece and we were happy to have it.

5) Guide - We booked Percy for last year's ill-fated trip and he was extremely sympathetic when I texted to cancel hours before he was supposed to meet us. Refused to accept payment even though he had turned down other work. He had also included some cool off-the-beaten places in our itinerary. Highly recommended for primo customer service.

We might be rebooking for August - If so, I'll be happy to do some reconnaissance for you.

So happy you're finally going, and congrats on your retirement - SO envious!

Thanks for your input, crosscheck. It is valuable.

While I don't usually use agencies, I heard that agents can do well on prices for luxury properties. If we don't get a better price quote than what I can do on my own, I'll just go ahead and book myself.

We are quite willing to splurge on this trip (as you can tell from our accommodation choices). And I thought we should do the Hiram Brigham, as it's likely the only Orient Express train I'll ever be able to afford!

Anyway, I got a price quote from one agent and am awaiting another. The first agent also (at my request) gave some suggestions for making the trip less expensive. One was to stay at the Inkaterra in Aguas calientes rather than the Sanctuary Lodge. It is a much better hotel at less than half the price, but then we don't get to stroll from breakfast to MP, etc. He also suggested the Libertador Hotel at Lake Titicaca, but I don't think I'm willing to consider that.

Cheryl and I have plenty to talk about tonight!

As a minor comment on the bus versus train, we took the bus. It was pleasant and the stops were interesting. But it was still a very long day. And I personally would rather be on a train than a bus, cost issues aside.

We spent three days at the sight, mp, when we were there a few years ago and just sat at different locations and marveled at it. The first day we had a guide, (we hiked the short inca trail) and then we were on our own. we were amazed at the groups that would just come for a couple of hours and then leave.

Having been to many of the same places as you in Asia I don't think that three days will be too much for you.

After discussing what was important to us about this trip, I think we have decided to cut Lake Titicaca.

Ironically, yesterday I received an email from the company that had the trip I dreamed of 20 years ago: www.incafloats.com/peru/peru11itin.html

This was a reminder that Lake Titicaca was not part of the dream trip. We will end up with a trip with more time in Cusco and the Sacred Valley at a much better price.

Kathie, go with your gut. I'm sorry you'll miss Lake Titicaca, as we enjoyed it so much and it was so different from the Cusco/Sacred Valley area. That said, I know trips are always about making hard choices. You'll have a great time!

Hi Karen, yes, it's always about editing, isn't it? We designed a new itinerary excluding Lake Titicaca but adding another day in Lima and two more in Cusco. We are now awaiting a response from an agent.

So Kathie, have you decided on a final itinerary?

Yes, we have:
Arrive Lima, spend three nights,
Fly to Cusco, go immediately to the Sacred Valley, three nights in the SV
Drive to Cusco, four nights in Cusco,
Train to Machu Picchu
2 nights at the Sanctuary Lodge (so three days admission to MP)
Train to Cusco, two more nights there,
fly to Lima and fly home.

PS all of our nights in Lima and Cusco are free with Marriott points. So while some of this is extravagant, some is very thrifty.

Kathie, that's awesome! Glad to hear that you've settled on your Peru itinerary. For me, my trips always feel that much closer when I finalize my itinerary and begin booking flights and hotel rooms.

Yes, booking makes it real, doesn't it? We are awaiting final word on our reservations that the agent is making. We've made our own Marriott reservations. We won't book the flights to/from Peru until we get the word from the agent.

Indeed. I've booked my hotels for the Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu, and Cuzco, as well as my tickets for Machu Picchu (we're doing the one day Inca Trail and a trip up MP Mountain on our third day there).

That sounds great!

My hotels are booked and I'm about to book the train and MP tickets. We've also been in contact with Karen's guide Percy. :-)