Just returned from a week in Buenos Aires. I took Alberto’s “The Real Buenos Aires” Tour.

I know there has been some controversy about how REAL it is and about the concept of taking people to see the cartonero train. From my viewpoint, REAL is very subjective. We each have our own realities and in Bs As - a city of 12 million full of diversity there would be 12 million realities… and this is one of them.

Alberto is a gracious host and very knowledgeable. The tour was as described. We met at the Retiro Train Station at 6.30 PM. We probably travelled a bit later than the true rush hour. The train was not all that crowded. As we headed toward Acassuso, Alberto provided us with information about the various barrios we passed through, pointed out places of interest and answered any questions we might have.

In Acassuso, a relatively affluent suburb where Alberto lives, we walked around to get a bit of a feeling for the area. Then we headed back to the station to watch the cartonero train. As pretour reading, Alberto had provided a link to a recent article in La Nacion to give us background about the cartoneros and their situation. We did not stand and gawk at the train and the cartoneros. We watched discreetly on the other side of the track and definitely did not stand there with our cameras snapping pictures. For me, the whole exercise did give me an awareness of one of the realities of Argentina after the economic crisis. I am not about to make any social commentaries on the situation.

We then went for dinner at a local family style parilla called La Porteña. In true Argentinian style, when we arrived at about 8.30 PM the place was almost empty. However by the time we left - after 10.00 PM it was packed. The prices were reasonable and the food abundant and tasty. As promised, we were the only tourists in sight. After dinner, we returned to Bs As by remise.

Alberto was the perfect host. He encouraged us to try things we otherwise may never have. He provided commentaries and opinions. Rather than a tour, I considered the outing a chance to spend time with a Porteño and get off the beaten tourist path. I would like to thank Alberto for taking the time to show us his city and a part of his reality.

Dan who accompanied us on the tour has a far better account of the evening as well as interesting background information in his excellent and insightful blog (the November 8th entry – The Burbs
http://www.saltshaker.net/

Muchissimas Gracias Don Alberto!!!!!

Raquel

Thank you, Doña Raquel y saludos a su simpática amiga, whose name escapes me at this time.

Thanks for your report Raquel. When I return to Buenos Aires for a real visit (not business related), I hope to meet Avrooster in person.

Thank you, SharonG!

As you well know, after our little misunderstanding in your initial Buenos Aires post, I posted several peace offerings, which I hoped would be accepted.

Come to BA soon, with LOTS of time to spare.

Avrooster, no problem. All is forgotten in the afterglow of a wonderful trip to Buenos Aires.

We just returned from Baires and took Albertos tour. We enjoyed a lot. The previous description is
as good a job descirbing as I could, probably better. My wife and I would just tell you what a gracious and convivial host he and wife are. He was
extraordinarily giving and helpful. I recommend the tour just to meet this fine fellow.

I have just returned from BA where I was priviledged to spend time with Alberto and take his "Real BA" tour.

Alberto is a kind and gracious host, who went out of his way to make my time in BA as enjoyable as possible.

Of course, the "highlight" (or should that be "lowlight" ??) was the excursion to see the cartoneros train.

The train trip out of BA was not as crowded, nor did it feel as dangerous as I had imagined. But it was certainly filled with numerous commuters who spend a couple of hours each day travelling from their suburbs to central BA to work.

We alighted the train at a station north of BA and waited for the cartoneros train to come through. Although there weren't many people on the train we saw, it was still a moving experience to see the conditions in which these people travel. A metal train, with metal bars across the open windows and locked, metal doors. It reminded me of the kinds of trains that carry cattle or other farm animals. And what would happen in an accident, or fire, I have no idea as people wouldn't be able to escape the carriages.

I would highly recommend Alberto's tour to anyone who wants to add to their BA experience and find out more information about the realities of life in Argentina after the recent political and economic crisis.

Dear Avrooster,

I have read the posts about your wonderful "real Buenos Aires" tour and am wondering if you might be able to give a tour on Thursday, 24 November? It would be for two people from Washington, DC. We have been to Buenos Aires before, and we love your fascinating city, but have never visited a "real" neighborhood. I am very interested in seeing a supermarket in particular, as well as the other things you have described. If you might be able to give a tour on 24 November -- I apologize for asking so close to the date -- I will email you at the address I have seen on this forum. Many thanks! Marie

Hi, Marie!

You can write to my e-mail address indicated in several posts above, but Nov. 24 is not available.

Tell me a little more about yourselves and that kind of thing, if you feel like it.

Your travel dates, where you will be staying, the phone number of your hotel, etc. would also be useful, in case something suddenly opens up.

At his time the only PROBABLY available date is Nov. 22.

Have a good trip and a great time in our town.

To the top for Muriel

You can run, but you cannot hide.

Nobody's hiding. I post here with serious info and fool around with my friends on TA. Did you read my threads here?

Yes, AV.....

I simply wanted others to know one of your friends from TA found you.....

in a playful way.

Tio Pepe

Tío Pepe: For some fun with my serious contributions here, I suggest a thread titled "BA..please help with name of shop"

I am leaving for Buenos Aires on 2/3 arriving 2/4. I might be interested in your tour. I would also like to find a hotel for about 30 bucks in Recoleta or Palermo Vieja.

I have 7 days, then on to Chile which I am not hearing good things about. I speak Spanish. I am interested more in meeting Argentinians or other travelers than anything else.

How do I contact you once I am in BA.

Thanks

John

You can write to me at the e-mail indicated in several of the above posts, but I'm afraid I am leaving for our South on holiday. Maybe on some other trip.

Have a great time in our country.

Very intiguing (especially as a photographer), but I'm a little cautious...has anyone taken you up on this offer?

Princess: Have you gone to the trouble of reading the whole thread?

You may also find some comments about this on the tripadvisor.com Argentina forum.

AV - reading the string I know that you are planning to be on vacation during February. Will you be back in town during the week of March 12 to 19?
Thanks.

My husband and I will be in BA on March 17 to the 20th and would like to take you up on your offer - please reply if you will be offering this tour and also will be happy to return the favour if you come to Canada.
[email protected]

Claydine and HuberaSanti:

A good day would be March 18, as I have decided to do my tour preferably on Saturdays or Sundays, so it does not interfere with my work.

Please write to the e-mail indicated several times in this thread, giving me more information about yourselves, your interests, where you plan to stay, plus anything you believe would be of interest to me.

But Av, if you switch to the weekends, you lose the fun of shoving other commuters aside to get a seat on the train!

Well, I guess we'll have to shove the weekenders aside, instead of the commuters!!

This is in answer to an e-mail from Jeff Salyer, who is planning to come to BA in mid April:

Your question ("recommendations") is too general. I suggest you research this forum and the tripadvisor.com Argentina forum and you will find the answers to most or all of the questions you can possibly imagine about Buenos Aires and our country, from a tourist's point of view.

This way, you'll get input from many different sources, which should enable you to make better choices.

Once you have an idea of what the alternatives of greater interest to you and your family are, you can ask more specific questions on one or both of these forums.

Have a great time in our country.

I shall be in Buenos Aires by the end of this week. I am wondering if it is possible to take your by now famours tour.
As you know I have lived in the past in Buenos Aires, and go fairly often but I am always happy to learn and see new things. Thks.

Sure, Graziella. Write to me to check date availability and arrange for it.

Hello again mr rooster, we just met on tripadvisor i think! seems a very popular thing you have going here.

would i qualify for taking your tour? - i am only one person (i have an argentine girlfriend but i doubt she would want to take the tour, she is a little scared of the REAL Buenos Aires!) and have been in argentina teaching for over a year (i´m from england originally. with a bit of irish too). not sure if i match your requirements exactly! let me know...

Well, Mr. Abasto, now you are on MY turf, so tread carefully!!!! LOL!!!!

If you have attentively read my thread, you should know whether or not you qualify.

My tour is a barter proposal, which means you may have to show me YOUR town, if I ever get there.

Definitely NO tour unless your girl friend comes along!!! No danger, EVEN for an Argentine girl who fraternizes with a Briton. LOL!!!!!

So, if you feel you qualify, write to me to the mail indicated somewhere in this thread.

treading carefully....

sorry, i was way too lazy to wade through the whole thread! i did see the barter proposal part and kind of elected to ignore it, seeing as i don't plan on returning to my home town for a long time. i love argentina! (y mi novia tambien!)

but i can at least agree to it in principle ;-)

i will email sometime soon (though not immediatey). thanks av!

I just have one quick question. What's the national dish in Argentina and where can I try the best? I'm gonna 2 days in Buenos Aires in late March(I know it doesn't do BA any justice for such a short trip!)

The national dish is.....STEAK, preferably washed down with MALBEC wine....FLAN with DULCE de LECHE for dessert. For a side dish, try PURE de CALABAZA (mashed pumpkin squash....like sweet potato, only better).....

Pasta is everywhere as well..

Hijackers!!!!! LOL!!!!

Is there any great ice-cream shop around the Plaza San Martin area(or easily accessible by subte)?

hijackers indeed! though any hijacker that likes ice cream is a friend of mine...

fatbully, freddo is the most famous ice cream chain here in BA, and despite being a chain, it is pretty damn good in my opinion (up there with the ice cream parlours in rome and florence).

i believe the closest freddo to the marriott plaza hotel in plaza san martin is under three blocks away. walk down florida, the pedestrian street that starts almost right outside the hotel, for two blocks, cross the main road (cordoba) and then on your left is the shopping centre "galerias pacifico". there is a freddo inside there, in the downstairs foodcourt. plus it is a nice building, make sure you LOOK UP at the murals on the dome whilst enjoying the ice cream.

of course, you have to try a dulce de leche variation flavour. imho.

yum.

A fat hijacker and a British hijacker!!! LOL!!! Well, as long as they like Argentina, it's OK.

I'll definitely try freddo. btw, have anyone tried Chungo or Volta ice cream?

Volta is outstanding icecream, but there is not one within walking distance of the Marriott.

Munchis is very near, and the Freddos idea is a good one.

How about Persicco?

Persicco? Not one nearby the Marriott, but my favorite ice cream in Buenos Aires....Freddos and Munchis are close and the cream is yummmy

Well, I guess ice cream must be part of the REAL Buenos Aires, or so thinks Doc Holliday!!!!!