Old Town Puerto Vallarta May 2017
 

Just returned from a glorious two week trip staying in Zona Romantica. Opening this thread for any questions anyone may have about Puerto Vallarta, trip planning that I can help with, or information I might be able to update for you.

Two weeks in paradise goes faster than a New York Minute! That's why I spend months in Mexico.
Glad you had your normal great time.

Well Stewbear certainly I also would love so "spend months" in Mexico. Unfortunately my job would not be real happy about that!
;-)

Favorite "Restaurant Week" menu: Archie's Wok

Most consistent good food: Cafe de Olla

Best breakfast in town: Fredy's el Tucan

New to me: Merida Grill

How many other places did you try for breakfast ?

cabron~

Within the past two weeks besides two meals at Fredy's I went to:
Cafe de Olla
Salud
el Mole de Jovita
CoExist Cafe
Memo's Pancake House

Previous trip breakfast places I have tried include:
Vitea
Coco's Kitchen
Dianita
Daiquiri Dick's
The River Cafe
Cafesto
Johnny's Diner
La Palapa
Vayan Cafe

I'm sure I am forgetting some but those are other good places.

Hopefully time will eventually allow you that opportunity Suze. Took 47 years of work before I got the privilege.

Hopefully, Stewbear. But at this time I am still gainfully employed full-time, so consider myself lucky to be able to be in Puerto Vallarta for 4-5 weeks total each year (two trips, spring and fall).

<<I'd love to hear a little bit about it - what you do there, what you eat, and why you find it so attractive that you go back year after year.>>


OK here goes... :-)


It's hard to describe why I return year after year. It's like trying to define why you fall in love with one person but not another. It comes from the heart and Vallarta hit me hard from my very first visit in the early 90's when a friend took me.

I love Puerto Vallarta, the local people are warm, generous, welcoming, and I feel like I am "home" the minute I arrive in town. It smells different there, a dusty combination of bus fumes, ocean salt air, taco stands, tropical flowers. I am a more attractive, funnier, happier person when I am there.

The weather is clear, sunny, warm, breezy. The sunsets are amazing and everyone shows up to watch and clap as the sun hits the ocean horizon line. Mexican people are very affectionate and there are always teenagers making out in the plaza, on the nearest available bench, sitting on the street curb, crying, hugging, kissing. Lots of laughing, lots of crying in Mexico.

Iguanas walk under your lounger you when you are at the pool area of the apartment complex. Geckos run around inside the apartment sometimes.

What I do each day: get up, make coffee, shower and dress in workout clothes to be at the plaza by 8am for Zumba class with Fabi as the sun is coming up. Have an ice coffee at the book store and head to the studio for a second Zumba class at 10am with Fer.

Walk around town and do some errands & maybe food shopping to keep myself going for the day. Back up the hill to the apartment. Drink beer or make a cocktail and lay by the pool reading a book. Later on maybe take a siesta. Use ear plugs and turn up the radio on the local station to drown out the construction project across the street.

Shower and go back out again. Stop by the internet cafe to send my sister and friends my daily trip report email. Head to the Pier to watch the fishermen come in, and locals and tourists ending their day, wait for sunset. Go out to dinner somewhere or get food to go to take back to the apartment with a bottle of wine. Pick up a cup of ice cream at Lix.

If it's Tues or Thur stay sober instead & to go to Zumba at 7:30pm for the evening class with more advanced dancers and an extremely handsome male instructor. Dance my heart out. Pack dry clothes and change in the locker room after class to go out for a late meal somewhere nice on the way home.

Watch Mexican novellas (soap operas) on TV or read a book.

On Sunday evenings go to the main plaza to hear the municipal band play and watch the elder couples dance together as they have been doing for years. Then walk the Malecon and give some money to all the various street performers and artists and acrobats working the crowd.

Keep track of appointments: Meet an online friend from Fodor's or Trip Advisor for drinks or to share a meal that we've planned in advanced or texted/emailed to arrange while in PV.

Different trips depending on time of year different things come up. Keep track of special events around town:

A book signing/book reading and wine party at Page in the Sun by a local friend's visiting Canadian author friend. Attend the Anniversary Party at Lucy's Cucucabana shop where she and her (very funny) author husband Gil welcome everyone with a vat of margaritas and a banda live band playing on the sidewalk. See the Day of the Dead altars at the plaza. Walk in the Festival of the Virgin of Guadalupe processions. Attend a Day of the Dead street party with local bands playing on a stage they've set up outside the brewery. Go see a two-woman play my Zumba friend has the lead in this season (Rosa de dos Aromas). Years ago I found a newspaper listing for a gallery opening to see work by and meet a woman painter who also sailed the Pacific solo and wrote a book about it but now lived in Vallarta.

I go to various Zumba events and fund raisers. One we were trying to get 500 people dancing under a full moon raising money for the orphanage out in a public park (we only got 365 people). Once a well-known guest instructor was in from Mexico City with his dozen backup dancers. That event did have 500 people between the participants and all the people hanging off their balconies watching us on a Friday night in a suburban town square. This trip there was a Mother's Day free class with 4 instructors and about 70 participants that I came across in the amphitheater one morning and joined.

Let's see... what I eat. This one gets me in "trouble" on this forum because for some reason people think you should eat only traditional, regional, Mexican food in Mexico.

I often go out for a sit down hot breakfast because I'm friendly with a couple cafe owners and it works well with my Zumba schedule. So American style breakfasts of eggs, toast, bacon, juice, coffee or Mexican style with sides of tortillas, beans, white cheese, fried plantains.

I eat a lot of fresh fish locally caught, it's simply prepared with garlic and butter, side of white rice and steamed vegetables is standard. I also eat prepared food from the Ley grocery store hot bar (Mexican styled meat or poultry stews, vegetables, rice) which is ridiculously inexpensive much to the dismay of one fancy restaurant owner friend. I eat yogurt, granola, sourdough bread from the Farmer's Market and lots of tropical fruits (you get those cut up from a street stall vendor, watermelon, mango, pineapple, cucumbers, etc. w/ lime juice and hot peppers optional).

Also I often eat (this is only for you annhig because I take grief over this every time I write about it) - hamburgers, fish burgers, chef salad, greek salad, nicoise salad with fresh seared tuna, pizza, lasagna, a club sandwich, Asian-fusion at Archie's - all depending where I am, who I'm with, and what I'm in the mood for.

I ride the local bus around often which is an adventure in and of itself. Maybe look for the post office to buy post card stamps.

I am often down in November for my birthday and if anyone gets wind of that you've never seen so much hugging, singing, and carrying on (whether at Zumba class, in a restaurant, whatever). I am honored in PV in a way that would never in one million years happen in Seattle WA.

I love that you make eye contact & speak to *everyone* you pass on the street each morning and everyone speaks to you. I've never seen so much "buenas dias"ing and "hola"ing in my life. It's wonderful. Doesn't matter is you're a punk teenager with earbuds or an old lady with a cooler of tamales to sell. You say hello to your fellow people as you pass.

That's my Puerto Vallarta...

siempre, Susana

Also I often eat (this is only for you annhig because I take grief over this every time I write about it) - hamburgers, fish burgers, chef salad, greek salad, nicoise salad with fresh seared tuna, pizza, lasagna, a club sandwich, Asian-fusion at Archie's - all depending where I am, who I'm with, and what I'm in the mood for.>>

your holiday, your food, suze. I "confess" that when we were in Sri Lanka, along with the delicious curries, we also ate several club sandwiches, and drank plenty of tea, and in HK, we had egg and bacon for breakfast as well as a wonderful thai meal. Why not?

I'm not sure that it would be my ideal trip, but we all have different ideas about the perfect holiday; also you are more or less "at home" so there will be times when you just want to chill rather than to be "doing" all the time - a bit like us when we used to go to North Devon. And IME when you are in such a friendly place, the need to fill your time with activities is not present.

So thank you for sharing your Mexico with me suze, I appreciate it.

Yes i am "home" in puerto vallarta that much is true. i hold no illusions that these trips (30+ and counting) are big adventure travel or some daring challenge.

i just move myself on down there and live my life in the sun for a couple weeks a couple times a year. Instead of my Seattle condo I rent a nice studio or 1 bedroom in Old Town. Instead of going to work every day, i walk around town, explore, relax, pool, beach, read. Do my Zumba classes same as at home just more of them & in a different setting with Mexican teachers and music. Actually have more of a social life there than at home because get out and meet up with people since i have more free time.

It has been years since I experienced Puerto Vallarta, but I remember how warm and welcoming a place it was, with a great variety of food. Having read suze's enthusiastic description, I'd like to return.

Are you going to retire to PV, suze?

yes i am, at least part-time :-)

That's a wonderful life to look forward to!

thank you! it is!!

Well told, suze. Obviously, you've found your spot.

Back in college I had a professor (he was also a popular writer) who told us how he spent January between semesters with a like-minded group of friends down in PV. I always wished I'd gone down to check it out myself.

Well, I'm going this February -- better late than never. A friend of mine who will be there at the same time (though staying longer) thought this might be a good hotel for my wife and I. http://www.casadonasusana.com/index.html Do you know it?

Casa dona Susana is in the heart of construction and I would not stay there because of this. You can use the sister hotel on the beach called Playa Los Arcos, but it is kid heaven (think screaming kids all crammed in a pool all day/night long). Could never convince my husband to do a free day pass there it was that loud and crazy. Also, some people have received terrible rooms there, so I wouldn't stay there right now. The serene atmosphere at their adults only rooftop pool is gone now with the construction happening.
I love PV and will continue to go (have been going for over 20 years and 20 plus times), but won't stay in those areas right now. Just too hectic.

Thanks, that's very useful information.

'This one gets me in "trouble" on this forum because for some reason people think you should eat only traditional, regional, Mexican food in Mexico.'
Not from me, that's for sure. I've mentioned before that on my Spotify playlists I've got Los Panchos, Marco Antonio Solis, mixed with John Prine, Little Feat, & Tommy James. Food is the same. Variety is good. Mexican food is not just gorditas and carnitas. Mexican food is also what Mexicans eat. Mexicans love their burgers and hot dogs and pizza almost as much as tamales and tacos. Almost. In one of my favorite big cities, Leon, the centro historico has more pizza stalls than any place I've seen in Mexico. Plus McDonald's. Eat what the hell you want. You're on vacation.
PS, suze did you ask and answer your own question here?

baldone~ Someone in the Lounge asked me to do a trip report so this thread I had already opened seemed like as good a place as any to write it.


Fra~ maried11 beat me to it. Yes I know it. Casa Dona Susana is a sweet traditional Mexican hotel but it is in between two huge loud high rise condos going up right now. So at the moment not a good choice. My trip was just a couple weeks ago and I stayed two blocks above CdS at Selva Romantica and walked past daily. I'm happy to write a list of hotel options for February if you want me to? I can still give a dozen good choices in that price range, taking into account the construction sites in the neighborhood. Any interest in a condo?

Thanks, suze, I'm thinking on it. First plan as you know was to split time between PV and SMdA, so I didn't think a condo would work for a short stay. Now I'm thinking I might add time to PV, skip SMdA, and head to Mexico City instead.

Living one half block from a major construction site just now, I will want to be well away from noise on vacation. The friend I mentioned above stays in an area just above the Zona Romantica -- would that be Centro? Budget, as I said in my other post isn't too much of an issue, say $300 US per night max for a hotel. Assume a condo would be less and less is always better!

hmmm... When you say "above" do you mean north - yes that would be Centro/downtown. Or if you really mean above like up the hill more like behind, that's probably Conchas Chinas.

Oh $300 is a huge budget. I never give more than $100/night but I am down off season in May/Oct/Nov. And condos are more $$ than the hotels I stay at, but I guess that can go either way depending how nice a condo & how nice a hotel.


<I will want to be well away from noise on vacation>

then you don't want to go to Puerto Vallarta! Period :-) I am only slightly kidding. It's not just construction, PV is one very noisy place. There's always something going on. Garbage trucks, local buses, construction projects, street repairs, tree pruning, boom boxes, live music, the guy with the tuba and his sidekick with the snare drum, to be well away from noise is pretty much not possible.

There's always something going on. Garbage trucks, local buses, construction projects, street repairs, tree pruning, boom boxes, live music, the guy with the tuba and his sidekick with the snare drum, to be well away from noise is pretty much not possible.>>

suze - what a brilliant description - I can hear them all now.

that's exactly what I imagined Mexico would be like.

If anyone is even considering staying at the Casa Dona Susana, by all means, get a room with a balcony facing the street. A number of friends and I stayed there in January and the interior rooms were terrible. Windows such as they were opened to a brick wall and our clothes all reeked from the mustiness of the rooms.

I just mean construction noise! Right now the Turk's are knocking down their old cultural center (about 20 floors). I get to hear endless pounding from the air hammers (sounds like machine guns in the morning), then the crash of falling steel support beams, scrapings as the Bobcats collect the rubble and dump it -- lovely. Very dangerous work, I think.

Looking for a place within short walking distance to restaurants and shops, maybe a decent bar, and not up too steep a hill. Views are good.

Thanks, I appreciate the help.

Suze, we are also planning a February trip to PV, partly because of your descriptions! We generally prefer to stay in condos because we like to have a little more room than a hotel room and fix some of our own meals. You mentioned to Fra_Diavlo that you could suggest some condos and I would also like your recommendations. Our requirements are an ocean view, beachfront or close and walking distance to town "stuff". Budget is up to $150/day. I eat a lot of local food wherever we are but DH does not so it is good to have options!

$150 is low for a beachfront condo in February. The places I typically rent are all up top the steep hill overlooking Olas Altas.

But I think the most helpful is I can just give you the two property managers I've worked with. You can look yourself at their websites to get an idea of what things are like, prices, calendar availability. Then check back with me about your short list and I am happy to give you the pros and cons (location, construction nearby, if I have stayed there or been in the building, etc.).

www.vallarta-getaways.com I work with Saskia thru her I have stayed at El Escondido 4 times and love that place. But it is a very small complex and WAY up top of a steep hill and with lots of steps inside the building so may not work for you. She manages quite a few other units around, so do take a look at the website.

www.puerto-vallarta-rentals.com is Jeff Musto aka "PV Kid". I have rented thru him at Vista del Sol when my sister was with me so we could afford a 2-bedroom place. He also has quite a few at Plaza Mar. These two buildings are side by side on the south end of the Malecon so ocean-views but not directly on the sand.

www.pvrpv.com is one I have not used myself but it's a good one because they have a huge inventory and very good sort and search features to get an overview of general availability and prices for any given dates.

HOTELS: Every place I stay and most that I've mentioned are right in the heart of town, so all have bars and restaurants, shopping, galleries, theater, etc. nearby.

For traditional-styled ocean-front hotels look at

The Tropicana in Zona Romantica
http://www.tropicanavallarta.com/

Hotel Rosita on the Malecon in Centro
http://hotelrosita.com/

Villa Premiere in the south end of the Hotel Zone
http://www.premiereonline.com.mx/home


For boutique hotels (not on a hill, most of them are)

Hacienda Alamana
http://www.haciendaalemana.com/

Casa Karma is gorgeous but it's out of town about a 5 min taxi ride to the south so not as walkable as requested but I include because it's stunning and has a bar on property
http://casakarma.net/

Quinta Maria Cortez is a stunning villa turned hotel right on the beach at the south end of Los Muertos
http://villasinvallarta.com/room-list/qmc/

For both Fra and Slw, Let me know if I'm getting close and I can come up with more similar options for you ;-) suze

suze, thank you so much. You're really going beyond the call of duty, here!

Hacienda Alemana really appeals, though it does seem odd to have a restaurant specializing in German cuisine.

Both the Rosita and the Tropicana looked like they'd suit, though they seemed to be farther from the Zona Romantica.

On the condos Plaza Mar and Selva Romantica looked about right.

I think you must preparing for a post-retirement gig as a PV specialist!

Thanks again.

The Tropicana IS in Zona Romantica/Old Town.

Hotel Rosita is up a bit more north in Centro.

Selva Romantica at the moment comes with a construction all around it warning (that's where I stayed two weeks just in May).

Plaza Mar is a great building one side with ocean views the other side with views over the plaza (which can be noisy like when we do Zumba out there at 8am -haha- or there's a big folklorique show there on a Friday night).

The German restaurant has been around 'forever' same owners. The hotel is new or newly remodeled (not sure which it's above my price range). But what's cool about it is being "on the flat" and while on a very busy street sometimes called Restaurant Row (Basilo Badillo) it's behind a wall so literally a hidden gem.

Believe me it's no problem posting... nothing I love more than chatting about Puerto Vallarta. My experience there is pretty specific (I've always stayed within a 10 block radius in ZR) so some people with similar tastes I can help, some I can't (don't know diddly about the all-inclusives in the Hotel Zone or the mega-resorts out in Nuevo for example).

Suze, this is great! Thank you for all the information. Since we will most likely be staying in a condo are there areas that you would recommend? Beach/Ocean view is essential. We are OK with being outside of PV, public transportation sounds easy and kinda fun.

Well yes, I recommend the places I stay ;-) which are all within a few blocks of each other in the "Zona Romantica" Old Town area by Playa Los Muertos (beach).

Molino de Agua, Vista del Sol, Plaza Mar, Plaza Dorada, el Dorado, La Palapa, One Beach Street are condo buildings with beach/ocean view in Old Town coming south from the Rio Cuale (river at the south edge of Centro/downtown separating it from Zona Romantica).


Since you mention beach front and willing to be slightly outside PV you might look at Costa Sur or Lindo Mar which are to the south along the highway but not too far from town:

http://www.costasurpuertovallarta.com/

http://www.lindomarresort.com/

with the disclaimer, I've never stayed outside the central area because I prefer to be able to walk out my door and BE there. I go in and out 4-5 times a day from where I'm staying. So any of these recommendations are only by reputation and 2nd hand knowledge.

suze --


Do you know anything about this place? http://www.casaamorita.com Thought it looked appealing, though it has fewer rooms than most of the places we stay.

FD

I know of it from reputation and often recommend it. I did not for you because you specifically said:

"and not up too steep a hill"

Which this place is :-)

Hmmm, they left that out of the description. Thanks.

You can tell by the photos... see how the view of out over the city is from up high. Also how do you feel about church bells frequently ringing?

This doesn't have to be a deal breaker. Taxis in PV are very cheap to use to get around. If you're willing to consider a big hill you can put Casa Isabel on your list.

also from the guest comments page:

"There is one caveat, however. Casa Amorita is located on a rather steep hill. It can be accessed either from the road or steps ascending from the town/ocean. Either way it could be difficult for those with mobility problems. A taxi back from the beach or dinner is an easy solution."

I just knew because I recognized the view and the street name Calle Iturbide.


Fra~ As a generalization but that usually holds true in PV, unless you are directly ocean front, when people are talking about spectacular "views" that usually means because you are high up on one of the hills that surround town.

Got it. Thanks!

I am a more attractive, funnier, happier person when I am there.>

This made me smile. Love reading about you in PV :)

We are headed in November over Thanksgiving week. My husband has a work associate that is from a small beach area north of there and is having a big wedding on the beach. We will stay in that small town for 2 nights and then head to a timeshare for the week... I am really looking forward to it!