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What a terrific report! Your last Mexican TR set a high bar, but I think you've cleared it. Great information about the Barbachano family and the Kennedy connection.
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Originally Posted by Fra_Diavolo
(Post 17624554)
What a terrific report! Your last Mexican TR set a high bar, but I think you've cleared it. Great information about the Barbachano family and the Kennedy connection.
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Originally Posted by Nelson
(Post 17624436)
Beautiful TR Tdiddly12, thank you for posting. Super photos and a fun read. Glad to hear your "bug" only lasted one day. I can think of several other colloquialisms for that ailment. Been there.
> Our whole street has these buildings, the bones look great, who knows whats in there, but the outside is classic I hope you don't mind a minor diversion, but I can give one answer. On our first tip to Mexico in 1984 we stayed in a hotel on Calle 63 between 52 and 54. Here is the exterior, somewhat similar to the first photo in your post #5. Note one of the city gates you mention on the left. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...881d895eeb.jpg And this is the interior courtyard, sadly the only photo I have of it. We were impressed by how calm and beautiful it was in there. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44ff7229eb.jpg I imagine there are some grander ones in the neighborhood. The hotel is still there, modernized and now called the Hotel Doralba Inn. https://www.doloresalba.com/nueva/merida.php Sign me up for those strong $2.17 margs! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac50c13a7.jpeg The Doralba Inn circa 2025 https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09b318a3e.jpeg Cool building I saw. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe9c2ba67.jpeg The front of our building which is quite modern. Previously it was a pediatric clinic, not sure how long it has been apartments. I think around 5 years? https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56272f592.jpeg This is a building off the Plaza Grande that Empress Carlotta stayed at when she visited Merida. Actually she was traveling through. She sailed to Progreso then down to Merida. You can see part of stage to the left for the big Sunday concert. |
Merida - Final Day
We are ready to tie a bow on Merida. First, desayuno at the Quinta Montes Molina mansion, no we weren't invited, they have a restaurant in the back! Then we toured the house, it is still owned by the 92 year old granddaughter. It is less expensive then Montejo 495, but it is still worth it. All of the furniture is original. On Sundays, Paseo de Montejo is closed to traffic on one side of the street for strollers and bicycles. So we strolled down to the Fernando Castro Pacheco gallery. This is a hidden gem, although it's not really hidden it's right on the Paseo. He is the artist who did the murals in the Palacio de Gobierna. Definitely worth a visit. Tonight is the last night of the Merida Fest 2025. We attended a concert at the Palacio de Musica. ( don't you love how everything is a Palacio in Mexico). On our first day here, Monday, we saw a dog in the Palacio playing catch with a guy. When they guy came out, we said is that your dog? He said, no it belongs to the Palacio, we found him digging in the garbage and we kept him. We've seen the security guard walking him a couple of times. You gotta love Mexico if only for that. It was fun to be in the auditorium but the young lady needed some work. It was a lot of notes in search of a song. Final goodnight, we went to the plaza and there was a concert for a Chilean Madonna look alike. I knew her before she was a virgin. The Plaza Grande was totally packed! All the young girls knew this singer and they screamed so loud. What a fun way to end our stay in Merida, off to Uxmal and Kabah tomorrow, can't wait. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...75c0a3bd3.jpeg Quinta Montes Molina Museum https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d277b0c3d.jpeg Side view with the missus https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed34aaa75.jpeg Nice desayuno https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a900291d1.jpeg These are going to go right to my hips https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b3b81bc4.jpeg Main hall of the museum https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c54de123.jpeg Dining room https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1c1137be.jpeg This appears to be an abandoned mansion but our guide the other night says it is owned by someone waiting for the right price https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5fe4a27e6.jpeg Fernando Castro Pacheco Galley https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4b92647c.jpeg This mansion is owned by one of Carlos Slim's companies. The richest man in Mexico https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55c44c3f6.jpeg Stage before the concert. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc0b8a392.jpeg We were expecting a classical concert and it was some sort of new age doodling https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef739d83a.jpeg This guy loved it though! |
Final Thoughts on Merida
We have been getting ready for our trip to the Yucatan for about a year. Had heard Merida was great then heard not so much. Heard you don't need to spend a week here, you don't, but we are slow travelers ( which seems to be a new phrase going around You Tube). I love to do, my wife loves to be, we are the Frank Sinatra of travelers, do-be, do-be, do. Let's get it out in the open. IMHO, Merida is not charming. It's a giant grid, all north / south and east / west. There are no little alleys to sneak through. You can go blocks without seeing something interesting as in Oaxaca. It's flat so there is no up, down and around, like Guanajuato. It's not green like La Condessa, unless you are in one of the parks. BUT, if you look for it, you can find some spark. Thursday night at Parque Santa Lucia for the music. Dzalby's for really good jazz. Some interesting art, the Hall of Murals in the Governor's Palace is really first class. It just doesn't smack you in the face like other great Mexican towns we have visited. That being said, we had great weather, the history is interesting and I think it will get more cleaned up in the future. They say that the Tren Maya is bringing more tourism, big debate if that is good. Merida is a great kickoff spot to go and see the Ruta Puuc which we start tomorrow. I would still recommend coming here, I would still stay a week, but 4 days is plenty, if you are a do-er and not a be-er. |
This post was posted twice, I deleted it
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Help! I posted 26 twice, anyone know how to delete a post?
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Tiddly, thanks for wandering over to the Doralba Inn and taking that photo. Sure enough, a paint job and an awning over the door look like the major changes in 40 years.
We have fond memories of time in Merida, and still rank a meal of tortillas, avocados, tomatoes and salt from a market, sitting on a bench in a square, as one of the most enjoyable of our lives. Oh and some carne asada with an achiote marinade, before we became vegs. I had to do a double take when I read this: "His family actually owned Chitzen Itza. I'm not lying!" That is amazing, what a fascinating history, with the Kennedy's to boot.. Looking forward to your travels to Uxmal and beyond. |
Originally Posted by Nelson
(Post 17624700)
Tiddly, thanks for wandering over to the Doralba Inn and taking that photo. Sure enough, a paint job and an awning over the door look like the major changes in 40 years.
We have fond memories of time in Merida, and still rank a meal of tortillas, avocados, tomatoes and salt from a market, sitting on a bench in a square, as one of the most enjoyable of our lives. Oh and some carne asada with an achiote marinade, before we became vegs. I had to do a double take when I read this: "His family actually owned Chitzen Itza. I'm not lying!" That is amazing, what a fascinating history, with the Kennedy's to boot.. Looking forward to your travels to Uxmal and beyond. |
Fascinating family history. I guess I've contributed in a small way to their fortune -- I've stayed at Casa del Balam in Mérida, a Mayaland hotel at Uxmal and I think Hacienda Chichen.
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Originally Posted by Fra_Diavolo
(Post 17624778)
Fascinating family history. I guess I've contributed in a small way to their fortune -- I've stayed at Casa del Balam in Mérida, a Mayaland hotel at Uxmal and I think Hacienda Chichen.
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On the Ruta Puuc
Picked up our car, quite an experience. The Uber was a nice abuelito who didn't know where the rental cars were at the airport so we got a nice tour of the airport. Had a fight over insurance. Mexican standoff! We are driving a brand new Kia with plenty of trunk space. Realized we had left two bags of treats, M&Ms, peanuts, Cokes and Fritos in a bag on the sidewalk at the apartment and they never made it into the car?#!* We had the email of a couple we met at the apartment complex, texted them and told them to go outside the entrance door and find a surprise! They found them and are probably eating M&Ms as I write this. That will never happen again, I miss those M&Ms. Arrived into Santa Elena which is about 10 miles past Uxmal, checked in and I drove about 6 miles further south to Kabah. No on there, pictures below. It's smaller sight but I think well worth it plus it's cheap, $4 compared to Uxmal. Walked around for about an hour then returned to the 'Onion. I had another highlight of the trip tonite. I walked into Santa Elena, looking for...you guessed it M&Ms and I heard live music. I asked at the tienda is that live music? They said yes, and pointed down the street. I walked down the street and looked into what I thought might have been an outside bar, but it was someone's backyard! All these quite cute women were dancing, there was a banda band and some young guy came up to me and gave me a beer. Pretty soon I'm at a local fiesta for someone's cumpleanos or a Saint's Day, I never quite figured it out. We battered back fractured English and Spanish, they taught me some Mayan words, one of the young women spoke Mayan, and after three beers I headed out. As I was leaving a guy road up on a scooter with two more cases of beer and packed up the empties. I hope I can find the Ruta Puuc home!! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c153dba5.jpeg Welcome to Santa Elena https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2d5d96867.jpeg Two nights at the Pickled Onion https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...17c49cd5d.jpeg Outdoor breakfast in the morning https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61bc1f407.jpeg Our back yard https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d8f732bd.jpeg Lots of carvings of Chaac the Rain God on the Codz Poop https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40c19b6f6.jpeg There are piles of these stones just laying around https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bcba18bc1.jpeg Back side of Codz Poop, I think this guy is telling his wife, "Maiz again for dinner!" https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...33c2316f2.jpeg The road 261 runs right pass the Kabah ruins. You could just stop and take pictures if you wanted to but I wanted to get up close https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cd131c900.jpeg The Palace and Temple of the columns |
I looked up Dona Carmen Barbachano, indeed pretty interesting and all new to me.
Too bad about the M&M's but that did lead to the backyard party. Great story! Pickled Onion looks like a nice choice. |
You have to go to Kabah just to say Codz Poop!!
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Originally Posted by mlgb
(Post 17625161)
You have to go to Kabah just to say Codz Poop!!
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Kabah 2
One last photo of Kabah. I got to Kabah late so I didn't get to the Arco which is across the road from the rest of Kabah. I have to say the Mayans were so brilliant in building their temples so close to Hwy 261 making it easier for us to get to them! On the afternoon I was ushered out of Kabah at closing time a young man told me if I came back "manana", they would let me go see the Arch. Well I didn't go back until the afternoon and he wouldn't let me in. He said, "I said in the morning" not afternoon. Well I wasn't going to argue the meaning of manana, so I went over his head to the actual ticket seller and he let me in. Never take no from someone who isn't qualified to make the final decision! The Arch stands by itself, it was on a sacbe which is a long road that ran from Uxmal to Kabah. We are not sure of the sacbe's purpose, was it a royal road, religious, or just a good road to move trade. The actual sacbe is grown over but this was the Arch to the city of Kabah. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ffd0c8651.jpeg |
UXMAL
Kabah is the canape before the feast that is Uxmal. We were up and out early, booked a guide through the Pickled Onion. The manager here didn't know how much it would cost which is always suspect. As it turns out, she has only been at the Pickled Onion a month! Cost for a guide is regulated by the State. $950 pesos for up to 8 people, not per person, for the group. We teamed up with Andy and Barbara, a lovely couple from England. Uxmal is larger than I thought, way greener than I imagined and spectacular. Our guide was and 82 year old native and so much fun. It's a quick tour, maybe 90 minutes then you are free to roam around. We were there total about 3 and a half hours. We got there at 9AM and there weren't that many people. Buy 11AM the place started to fill up. I took so many pictures that I can't comment on all of them, but sit back and enjoy Uxmal. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7aa03c9c5.jpeg Entrance https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69856ef97.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...001736bc1.jpeg Pyramid of the Magician https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d94208f83.jpeg Back side of the pyramid taken from afar. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1a0ae55b8.jpeg A lost of the Mayan sites have been reconstruced and you can see in this case how they numbered the rocks to get them in order. There are tons of extra rocks laying all over. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a2e9093e4.jpeg This is from the Nunnery Quadrangle. There is a giant serpent and a person's head coming out of the mouth. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9af7def5.jpeg Two ancient Mayans https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f547b4121.jpeg House of the Turtles https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c026a3269.jpeg |
More photos of Uxmal
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...638f62c0c.jpeg Two headed Jaguar in front of Governor's Palace https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...658ff7811.jpeg Dovecote https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a3a659cf5.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e3e6ea2a.jpeg Governor's Palace https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6c195a48.jpeg One thing I learned is that the Mayans used facing rocks with rubble in the middle then another facing rock. It wasn't all big solid blocks. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c524538c1.jpeg Another shot of the Ball Court |
Travel Day - On to Campeche
Got up earlier then we thought we would and so we had time to stop at Sayil. It is a lesser site but it had a couple of interesting buildings. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bfe00ac24.jpeg Which way do I go, which way do I go https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5fa3e98f.jpeg Goodbye Pickled Onion https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31ce5bced.jpeg Welcome to Sayil. There are three sites along this road but we only hit Sayil https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...abba706e0.jpeg Gran Palacio https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2df5f723.jpeg Above the door way is an upside down figure you can see his "frog" legs. I read this is a descending god https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ed3126301.jpeg Mask of Chaac https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35a0d9428.jpeg El Mirador https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79a43657a.jpeg Yum Keep. Ok, this is interesting, this is either a fertility statue, or Mayan porn. You be the judge. |
Campeche Night One
We drove from Santa Elena on Hwy 261, stopping at Sayil and continuing on to Campeche. It is an excellent 2 lane road and the whole trip there was not a single car behind us. We passed on coming traffic, light, but such a pleasant drive. So, we were not prepared for Campeche. It is way bigger than we expected, we got on the circle highway, past the airport and Maya Tren and then turned into the thick of it. My navigator did a great job but there were some intersections where there were no stop signs and you crossed, Por la Gracia de Dios. The city center is all one way streets with very small parking spaces, that you parallel park on the left. I had to drive around quite a bit for a space. We have a huge apartment, excellent hosts and a pool which I immediately jumped in! Went out for dinner then headed to Malecon for the Light and Water show, every night at 8. Walked back down Calle 59 which is filled with restaurants and happy people. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa55b91fe.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e2e3e8a7.jpegThe light show https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...463cfb6a4.jpeg Light show https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e2ff63be.jpeg More light show. It was windy and we actually got wet! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df2bc2811.jpeg Happy diners on the Calle 59. I don't know how this device is filled, but I asked if I could take a picture and they said, sure. Didn't offer me a beer though https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f792c9969.jpeg More Calle 59 |
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