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Loving your trip report and photos! Your photos are absolutely delightful and it’s clear from your report how much fun you’re having! Thanks for finding the time for posting this - who knows, you might inspire us to explore this region sometime.
I got a few yuck-yucks reading this😉 |
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 17628134)
Loving your trip report and photos! Your photos are absolutely delightful and it’s clear from your report how much fun you’re having! Thanks for finding the time for posting this - who knows, you might inspire us to explore this region sometime.
I got a few yuck-yucks reading this😉 |
Valladolid - First big night Wow!
We got into Valladolid, found our apartment and went out for a walk around the square, Parque Principal Francisco Canton Rosado. Our first impression is that there a lot more tourists here than any place we've seen, and a lot more European travelers based on the sounds of the conversations we are hearing. Grabbed a bite to eat then back to the room. Settling in, unpacking when we heard a marching band? And the singing of angels? Tonight is the start of the Festival of La Candelaria and we are on the same road as the Parque and Church with that same name. There is a procession walking through our street, everyone is singing and dressed to the nines, or the nueves! We jump into our zapatos and follow them down the street. It is a huge outdoor service with singing, preaching and lots of music. After about an hour of having our souls saved in Spanish, I think?, we headed to the main square and the Video Mapping on San Servacio on the square. A light show on the church. Do we do that in the states? I've seen lights on Mt Rushmore but not moving pictures. I'm including a few shots. It was magical https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d0fc1591.jpeg Look at those dresses. The ladies were styling, the men also, look at the smiles! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf2c74d80.jpeg A big crowd, some seated, a lot standing https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...69337dfae.jpeg You can see the Padre in the middle of the shot next La Candelaria https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5092aa17.jpeg Templo de San Servacio before the show, and some photos of it during the light show https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f695a121.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e291033a.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...114dd61a9.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f12d7def7.jpeg |
How cool! They do it at Disneyland.....
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The evening sound and light show at Uxmal also does that. CHAAAAC...
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Originally Posted by mlgb
(Post 17628204)
The evening sound and light show at Uxmal also does that. CHAAAAC...
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Interesting, ours was Spanish only.. and seemed like it went on for much more than 15 minutes!
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Really enjoying this TR Tdiddy. You seem to have seen much, much more than we managed to in our time in the Yucatan!
Good to hear that your home in California escaped the wildfires. Makes me realise how lucky we are in the UK not to have to worry about these things - yet! |
Originally Posted by crellston
(Post 17628337)
Really enjoying this TR Tdiddy. You seem to have seen much, much more than we managed to in our time in the Yucatan!
Good to hear that your home in California escaped the wildfires. Makes me realise how lucky we are in the UK not to have to worry about these things - yet! |
Valladolid - Museo Choco Story and 2nd night of La Candelaria
We visited the Chocolate Museum and it was really interesting. The Mayans had it first, then the Spanish sent it back to Spain, but there was a map of how chocolate spread across the globe and to me that was fascinating. It went from Mexico to Spain of course, but then the next big move was from Spain to the Philippines, both Spanish colonies, then through Malaysia etc. There was also a chart of how much the world consumes of chocolate. The countries that produce it, eat a lot less than the countries that buy it. The US is at about 11.KG per person, in a year. Mexico is at 1.1 KG. The Swiss and Belgians are the top consumers. Second night of Candelaria. They are dancing now. Orchestra, of high school kids, it looked like, but everyone in their splendor! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1550f45f8.jpeg The Mayans mixed blood from sacrifices in with the chocolate. Reminds me of an IRS audit I had once. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...830efcd88.jpeg Only the rich drank chocolate of course, this woman was riding in a carriage. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4eb92907a.jpeg The nuns in the kitchen making and baking with chocolate. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...748d9e72a.jpeg The grand entrance. There was some kind of contest or hierarchy. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...896f21eef.jpeg Lot's of dancers https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e40c5481e.jpeg The dresses, the make up, the hair. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06aa33d3a.jpeg I hope you can see there is a little 3 year old girl dancing away. Mostly just twirling. I can't help but think how this will be imprinted on her and how important this is for her culture. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1961357fb.jpeg The Abuelas! Dancing together. Have probably doing this since they were 3! https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d7bb25bc.jpeg And here's the lady herself, La Candelaria. The brought her in, twice around the dance floor then back to the church. |
Valladolid - Casa de los Venados
There are a few museums in Valladolid, but one of the most fascinating if you are into Mexican art is not a museum but a house! House of the Deer, is a 16,000 square ft. house owned by an American, John Venator. He opens his home at 10AM for tours and it was one of the most impressive things I've seen. It's a completely different beast but I put it right up there with Museo de Arquelogico in CDMX. He and his wife were collectors and there are 5,000 pieces of art through out the casa. I believe there are 6 bedroom suites around the courtyard, each with a sitting room, bedroom and two bathrooms. The tour takes you through his private kitchen and living room. Our neighbors in our hotel actually got to meet Mr. Venator, we weren't so lucky. He had some family staying so some of the bedroom suites were closed off. Google this place, I want to get right to the pictures. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d4c5a6bf.jpeg Entry Way. The casa is 400 years old and was the Mayor's Palace https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de37f9a08.jpeg The bedrooms are aligned around this courtyard https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13f831ef1.jpeg The fabulous duo! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23903036b.jpeg This is the living room of one of the bedroom suites. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...745b80fdd.jpeg Out door shower and bathroom off of the suite https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...57b8a6c29.jpeg This was the living room from the Frida suite. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e418e984.jpeg So the suites have a bedroom like this, a living room and the outside bathroom https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce9c7277e.jpeg Out door garden https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...15d816d01.jpeg Entry from the open patio to the pool area. I mean you gotta have a pool, right? https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9ba36959.jpeg Pool on both sides of the walkway https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1f2e3c65.jpeg The didn't let us swim! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...48e22f0c1.jpeg Mr. Venator's living room https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...80068d2eb.jpeg Kitchen https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...549d4ac35.jpeg Looking into the dining room from the kitchen https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b65583eac.jpeg He had service for twelve around the dining room table |
Valladolid - Ek- Balam
Today we drove 30 minutes to Ek-Balam, a Mayan site where you can still climb the Pyramids. I've seen many videos of Ek-Balam, and remember Chad and Mindy from my very first posts, the couple who are traveling the world? Well, they told me parking is free! Not so quick, it seems that in the last two years some enterprising locals from the ejido have erected a barrier across the road and you have to pay $100P to get past it. When you get to the actual site, they are rather mum about this and claim not to have anything to do with this. The site is more than worth it however. There are a number of interesting structures the most interesting is the Acropolis with El Trono, the gapping jaws of a Chenes style monster. It was magnificent, but you have to work for it, it's quite a steep climb! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...045f9c5cd.jpeg Entry into the site. There were 5 sacbe's originally to get into the city https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95d27a1cc.jpeg Ball court https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7f883b78c.jpeg Las Gemelas, the twin sisters https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4a50506da.jpeg This tree had a branch going out about 30 feet and they had given it a brace. Can a brother get a hand? https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5349d5bc1.jpeg Stairs leading to the top of the Acropolis https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40fc8aa48.jpeg Look at that detail! The over all structure of the Pyramid was made with rough stone and stucco. It is not as detailed as other Mayan sites https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0cf009101.jpeg El Trono, probably the burial site of Ukit Kan Le'k Tok', or Bob as he was know to his friends. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f08ca75a.jpeg Side view of the opening. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ebec233ab.jpeg Side detail. This whole "face" was built and then covered up with a wall so it wasn't discovered until the 1990's https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c83393356.jpeg Detail of a Stela at the bottom of the Acropolis https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...45d41f1a1.jpeg View from the top. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cfb57af4.jpeg Back in town. I need some appetizers! Don Diablo on top of the Hotel el Meson de Marques. Guacamole with Rib-eye, very delicious |
That preservation of the stucco is amazing!
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That House of the Venados is almost Roman in its layout. Art collection looks fantastic.
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Originally Posted by mlgb
(Post 17629180)
That preservation of the stucco is amazing!
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Originally Posted by Fra_Diavolo
(Post 17629195)
That House of the Venados is almost Roman in its layout. Art collection looks fantastic.
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Pretty sure not. After Palenque we went toward Villahermosa. From there I flew to Mexico City.
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What a trip you guys are on! Bummer about the towe ASAIK, that's about all you can in this situation. Loving all the somewhat off the beaten path Mayan sights you have been able to hit. We were at Izamal for an Easter Passion Play so we missed some of the Mayan stuff.
I think I have an album by that pope you mentioned. :lol: Thanks for posting, firing up the blood to consider a return visit maybe next year, maybe with more time at Yaxha, The light show we saw at Chichén Itzá in 1984 was also well punctuated with CHAAAACS! There was actually a small Club Med there at the time. |
Valladolid - Last Days
Lot's of posts from Valladolid because we stayed here 6 days. It is my favorite town in the Yucatan so far. Granted we have only been in the Central to Northwest quadrant. Visited the San Roque Museo, very small with things from Ek-Balam and information about the Caste War which was a 60 year war here that most of us have never heard of. There is a cenote here in town which we walked by. We went to another cenote today called Hacienda de San Lorenzo Oxman. It is on the tourist route, Chichen Itza from Carmen La Playa or Cancun, Cenote and then lunch in Valladolid. We actually didn't have too many people there today. It's much more developed than most of the cenotes and not that authentic, but hey, it's a cenote. Walked to the Mercado Municipal and it was the cleanest Mercado I have ever seen in Mexico. Ended at the Convento de San Bernardino, not the one on Route 66, it's a different San Bernardino. Tomorrow, off to Chichen Itza. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25e9d76cc.jpeg Museo San Roque, was an old monastery, hospital and now a museum. Small but interesting https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3ce88bdc6.jpeg This was found at Ek-Balam. It is a man, head, coming out of a serpent's mouth. It's a Mayan myth that man was born out of the snake, or maybe the snake was eating us and thought we tasted like chicken? Not sure. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5ab62c0e.jpeg Front of the large Mercado https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4d9e156a.jpeg Look at that meat and it was super clean. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a43c0bc5e.jpeg Artwork in front of the Cenote Zaci https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...128209785.jpeg Cenote, it's cold but really fun with a rope swing https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...da0a20414.jpeg Pool at Oxman cenote. Very refreshing https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1e9b029d5.jpeg I'm not sure if this was really a hacienda, probably was, but there are a lot of buildings around the main building https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7dd1eb641.jpeg Had to end with this, at the La Candelaria Square. There was a dance class for about 30 young girls and it was a hoot watching them. Didn't take to many pictures but it was another of those Mexican moments. Outside, no fancy leotards, on a concrete slab but kicking it up. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...91f211ccf.jpeg Bye-Bye Valladolid |
CHICHEN ITZA
We finished our Yucatan Experience with the jewel of the peninsula. It is truly spectacular. I will have to break this into two posts. I know there are many Fodorites who have visited Chichen Itza and can probably give a better tour than myself, but I will try to present it as if you haven't been here before. If you haven't been here before, Put It On Your List! We left Valladolid at around 8:30 AM, got there within one hour. Along the way you will encounter people trying to wave you down for some important informacion. Pass these people. I mean we weren't even 10 minutes out of Valladolid and people were waving us down to stop. A couple of things, if you are early enough, once you get there drive to the parking place right up front, $116P. We saw a lot of people but not as many as we thought although you could definitely tell when a big bus crowd came in. Around the ball court there are some amazing carvings and if there are crowds you can be standing behind tour groups and they block the view. No one's going to block the view of El Castillo, it's huge! We are staying in Piste tonite at Casa de las Lunas, a really wonderful little hotel. In hind sight, and given how nice this hotel is, I would have stayed here last night, hit Chichen Itza at 8AM and chilled back here before we head to Merida tomorrow. Let's see some photos shall we? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...887e5fc56.jpeg Here we are, let's go! https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...38e05f0a4.jpeg El Castillo, the first thing you will see when you enter. When we got to the ticket booth we were second in line. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...47e1975be.jpeg Here's an eager beaver, not so spry after 4 hours at the site. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...110f01f6f.jpeg At the solstice, the light moves down the steps as the sun rises and it's supposed to look like a snake slithering down the pyramid ending in these two heads https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fa329e3d.jpeg Biggest Ball Court in the Mayan World https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4a3f5003.jpeg All along the wall are these details of players and losers! It's mixed on who made out worse, the winners or the losers. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6c443eacd.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d837cec3.jpeg Detail of a snake head https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb54b087a.jpeg This is at the top of the Ball Court, a lot of detail up top https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...996cc936b.jpeg More snake heads! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5e31f235.jpeg This is a shot of the Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars. Fairly small platform with amazing carvings https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5cb565066.jpeg Some of the carvings, a Jaguar https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44d238a1b.jpeg Tzompantli, row of skulls, the Mayans used to stack them on poles. How thoughtful, who wants a bunch skulls laying around the temple, willy nilly.The skulls were either from battle or from the ball game. |
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