A Month in Chiapas
 

Well, I've finally gotten the first chapter up, one of maybe 9 or 10 that will appear on consecutive Saturdays. Mostly about San Cristobal de las Casas but some about Chamula on Day of the Dead and the last on Chiapa de Corzo where I went the last night to avert possible mishap getting to the airport for my flights home.

https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/a-month-in-chiapas


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Templo y Ex Convento Santo Domingo

oh gawd, I love Chiapas

Hi Daniel. No, didn't get to the cañón but saw the boats along the riverfront in Chiapa de Corzo. To be honest, towns appeal to me more than natural wonders & who knows why we like what we like, though if I go back it could certainly make the cut, especially if I come down the mountain again prior to my flight. I'll be interested in your take on how you perceive San Cristóbal compares to Antigua Guatemala, or other places, from my posts as the weeks go by.

Though I've seen lukewarm comments here about San Cristóbal, I found it sort of perfect. Cool weather year-round, restaurants & accommodations for every budget, beautiful architecture though not grand in the way many of the colonial cities are grand. But I prefer it, and the size of the town, not too big & not too small. I also loved the independence of the indigenous people, seemingly more than what I as a stranger observed in Oaxaca. I was impressed by that.

Nice report. I echo some of your thoughts on 'San Cris', even though it's been quite a while since we've been there. But it was during (or because of?) that trip that we decided to move to Mexico full time. I can't recall exactly the year, but we flew from MEX to TGZ for $17 US each one-way on Mexicana. No wonder they went bankrupt.

It's crossed my mind more than once in the last year or so to move to Mexico, though at this point I'm not sure I have to energy to completely uproot. But if I can convince my son to take my house it would be a way. I'll be part-way there soon as my granddaughters appear to be coming here for school beginning next week & maybe their father will follow. Fingers crossed. I'm betting I have a few good years left but no time to lose.

Glad you like the report. I like doing them and they'll dribble out over the next couple of months. Not as if we're drowning in material on this forum so happy to contribute.

" I have a few good years left but no time to lose"
LOL, when we made the move, my wife's BFF said, hey why not, you've got another good 10 years! That was 9 years ago!
Anyway, no matter if we die here or move back NOB it's been a fun ride. I'd recommend it to anyone.
Look forward to your next installments.

"Though I've seen lukewarm comments here about San Cristóbal" I may well have been guilty of that mmePerdu! As I recall, we did try to meet up there, but the dates didn’t work out. If we had, you may have been able to introduce me to its charms and I may have come away with a different impression.

I enjoyed our time there but just found it to be a little too full of gringo tourists compared with other places we visited in Mexico.

Looking forward to reading of your experiences. Overall we loved Mexico and hope to return and maybe combine with Central America, in which case we may well revisit SC.

Age is relative, right? The same friend might add another 10 years now, being 9 years older themselves. I want to give my granddaughters an example of an adventurous life, as mine did for me, the best thing I think we can leave them. I don't think my son has ever quite understood but the girls are 13 & one is very much getting it, the one that's most like me already.

Crellston, I'd forgotten our exchange. And I should qualify my "sort of perfect" assessment. Perfect is another of those hugely subjective adjectives. I like having a few English-speaking tourists around as it means more locals may be likely to speak English, though I get along ok without a language in common, have done always except once in China in the boonies. But with a certain number of tourists the infrastructure for us improves, gives us more choice & basic comforts that otherwise a town would have no use for. And I found there were far more Mexican tourists than English-speakers which makes for a nice balance. I was happy to have an English bookshop and a restaurant owned by an English woman with whom to chat. It occurs to me that someone on their own may have somewhat different priorities than 2 traveling together. And, of course, if my Spanish was more than rudimentary it would make a difference.

Next installment, called Walkabout, San Cristóbal, is just that, a get-acquainted mini-tour around centro, the historic heart of the town. Truth be told, walking around is what I spend an inordinate amount of time doing when I travel, anywhere, & probably among the reasons I enjoy staying in 1 place so long. For some unknown reason I prefer hilly places so, for instance, when someone once described Mérida to me as "flat as a pancake" it was a great disappointment. Anyway, here's the link to just walking around in hilly San Cristóbal: https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/wal...san-cristo-bal


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Having been to both Antigua & San Cris, I think visually Antigua was more compelling. I think the setting with volcanoes as a backdrop and the ruins in the city tipped the scales for me. Not that I didn't like San Cris; far from it, it's a beautiful city too.
And I think Veracruz is my favorite city in Mexico, for the vibe like you observed.
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A comparison of several points, San Cristobal vs Antigua, Guatemala:

Population: San Cris - 185,000. Antigua - 45,000.
Av price of 3* hotel: SC - $39. Antigua - $71.
Elevation: SC - 7200'. Antigua - 5,000'.
Climate averages: SC - high 63/73F, low 43/52F. Antigua - high 72/78F, low 53/60F.
Antigua is about 15 minutes closer to the local airport.

My take (esthetics aside altho they seem about comparable in photos unless a volcano & local ruins puts Antigua ahead), SC's larger population may mean more conveniences for a long-term stay. It appears SC also has generally cheaper accommodations. SC is higher which presumably accounts for Antigua's slightly warmer climate, warmer is a good thing. All in all, the benefits of a larger population without being a big city puts SC slightly ahead for me for a long-term stay.

I'm thinking about it all because it's time to start considering places for my winter trip. I thought I'd decided on Penang but now having 2nd & 3rd thoughts. I'm surprising myself with Mexico City also creeping into the mix.

It was interesting to read both your comparisons, mmeperdu and baldone. The temperature difference I wasn't aware of, for one! I remember needing a sweater at night in Antigua. Also, I'm not sure I'd read too much into availability of conveniences for a long term stay by comparing the actual populations of Antigua and San Cris. Firstly, Antigua is listed in guidebooks as the *must-see* of Guatemala; I suspect for this reason, Antigua has a large foreign tourist presence that won't be reflected in those numbers (in fact foreign tourists were visibly more than anywhere else I've been in Mexico or Central America--as a caveat I should add that I've not been to some biggies like Cancun or Puerto Vallarta) and secondly Antigua's proximity to the largest city in Central America (Guatemala City) brings a considerable stream of capitalinos to dine, party, etc... into Antigua that also won't be reflected. Antigua reminds me of Key West (pop ca. 25,000) in that way...the low population does not reflect how busy it is!

>>>I'm surprising myself with Mexico City also creeping into the mix.<<<

My wife and I have decided to stay a few months in Mexico City when we're able to get away for an extended period, which will be in a couple of years. The neighborhood I've focussed on is La Condesa.

Daniel, your description of the stream of visitors to Antigua would also send me in the direction of San Cristobal. Yes, I saw tourists but far from a "stream" & while I have no illusions that it's much off the beaten path, fewer does suit me better. Fewer visitors would also explain lower accommodation costs. The "conveniences" I mention are more those that make living there comfortable, rather than catering to visitors. I was there in October and realize it could be a slower season for tourists.

Fra_Diavolo, La Condesa is a neighborhood I see mentioned regularly. More research is definitely in order but I don't recall anyone saying they hated Mexico City, au contraire. But being a lover of smaller places in general, I'll be working up to it. Maybe the thing to do, since my flights so far have all gone through MEX, is to stop for a week or 2, stick my toe in the big water.

>>>Maybe the thing to do, since my flights so far have all gone through MEX, is to stop for a week or 2, stick my toe in the big water.<<<

Absolutely! Don't hesitate.

Thank you for your report. I'm always interested in anything that isn't Puerto Vallarta. Cooler is better!

Mlgb, my pleasure. Lots more to come, I'll post new links every Saturday.

I think anyone that enjoys Mexico really needs to experience Mexico City. Condesa is a cool area. So is nearby Roma. Roma probably offers more bars, cafés & restaurants. But they're adjacent colonias, so it's easy to stay in one and visit the other. Even walking, although it's a long walk (from one to the other) than you might think by looking at a map.*

This week's post is all about the food. Isn't that one of the big reasons we go to Mexico? My habit when I travel, especially when I have the luxury of time like this trip, is to find several places where the food is good, affordable & served by people who are kind & might even remember my face. If conversation is included, as it was in the first place I mention then it's a winner indeed. So here are my current favorite places to eat in San Cristóbal: https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/eating-out-in-san-cris


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Amor Negro

Thanks mme. Makes me wanna go back; it's been several years, at least 10 or 12, sometime shortly before Mexicana folded. And my recollection was that there weren't as many restaurants at that time. Speaking of food, my other recollection is that food in San Cris was much better than that in Antigua, though I think that's pretty much true, overall when comparing Mexico to Guatemala. Although I'm sure in Antigua that's changed too over the years.

Museum #1 on this visit to San Cristóbal was the home of 2 remarkable people, Gertrude Duby & Frans Blom. She was Swiss, an anthropologist & he was a Danish archeologist, an early excavator of Palenque, among others. I've provided links to more information about the couple at the end, worthwhile reading.* https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/hom...useum-na-bolom


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I'd say Na Bolom was more interesting in the directions it sent me for learning more about the Bloms & their work than what's actually there. Of course the house was fun to see but there isn't really much of substance about their lives when they were there & working. Or what's being done now to continue their work. I suspect not much. It would be a nice place to stay for a few days, a nice location though a bit far from the center for walking. I'd guess the revenue produced from the guest rooms supports maintenance & staff & not much more. I think there's potential but it would depend on the terms by which the organization operates. Of course, I don't know what goes on in the other buildings on the grounds so maybe there's much more than a casual observer like myself would know.

Saturday & a new chapter, this one about the mundane, grocery shopping, which I confess I always love to do when I'm traveling and have any sort of kitchen available. Having to go out for every meal can get tedious and there's just the fun of doing everyday things in a brand new environment. I'm sure it's why, in part, I love long stays.

https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/gro...san-cristo-bal

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Thanks for the follow-up. I sometimes take for granted the variety of fruits and veggies here. And how they're ridiculously cheap. Our Mexican daughter-in-law, a vegan, moved to the states from San Miguel 2 years ago and she is still suffering from culture shock.

The availability of fresh cheap food is a big reason I think regularly of living in Mexico. I know exactly how your DIL feels. Shocking & depressing.

Cute story; she saw him pulling weeds at their house and told him, 'no, we can eat that'. It was purslane, a common weed in the US Midwest, but known as verdolaga here in Mexico and it's sold in Soriana and Comer. I also like how much of the available produce here is locally sourced, since much of the bulk stuff is exported.

I think I mentioned I ran out of black tea & after looking all over San Cristobal, even Chedraui, finally found it at Soriana. My favorite!

Another Saturday, another blog post. It was November 1st, Dia de los Muertos in the land where it all began and one of the most interesting days in over 50 years of wandering the planet. Besides the intensity of the experience, what surprised me was the absence of outsiders, very few of us. If I was going to recommend 1 experience to everyone here it would be this day in San Juan Chamula. And, contrary to my usual m.o. I'd recommend going with this small group tour operator, Alex y Raúl Tours, low key and very useful for keeping clueless gringos out of trouble.

https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/dia...n-juan-chamula


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Saturday Greetings. This week is the second half of Day of the Dead, Dia de los Muertos. And, I think, my favorite photos. I'd missed the celebration in various places in years past but this time hit it right and it couldn't have been in a better location. I opted for a tour for a variety of reasons & it was a good decision, with deservedly well-reviewed & low-key Alex y Raúl Tours.

https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/cha...de-los-muertos


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I've been waiting for this -- thanks, some very nice shots.

I've never been in Mexico for the Day of the Dead because the calendar has never worked out, but I'm hoping to someday soon.

Thanks so much, Fra_Diavolo. San Cristobal isn't as touristy as some places, and Chamula even less so. I'd recommend finding such a place when you do decide it's time.

Thanks, mme. While DOD stuff has never been my thing, your posts are great and a nice addition to Fodor's. I read each and every one even if I don't comment.

Hi Baldone, thanks for the note. I realize there's only so much to be said and am pretty sure you & other regulars are reading the posts. In any case, if I start to feel neglected I just have a look at the numbers of views & am always amazed & gratified there are as many reading as there are. Pretty amazing. Cheers.

The introduction to this week's post, "After a lively morning in Chamula on Day of the Dead, PortMoresby has a shopping opportunity along with a sobering education in the geology of southern Mexico." Beautiful weaving done in Zinacantán is juxtaposed with the damage done to its beautiful church by 2 earthquakes in recent years. Being from California I'm no stranger to the earth moving under my feet, including some vivid childhood memories, but rarely does one see this kind of damage, though the sight of collapsed buildings in San Francisco's Marina district in 1989 made me realize it can happen anywhere.

https://www.travelgumbo.com/blog/san...anta-n-chiapas


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