Your most memorable meal in Umbria and why?
 

I would love to know where you have truly enjoyed an exceptional olive-oil, bakery,wine, meal etc... <BR> <BR>Was it because of the town? Ambiance? Regional produce? Chef? <BR> <BR>Did you follow guide book suggestions or follow your stomach and loved it? Curious to what guide book suggestions did/didn't make the cut. <BR> <BR>Looking forward to your replies. <BR> <BR>Grazia infinita! <BR>Wendy <BR>

There have been many. One especially comes to mind. We were in Orvieto and had taken a tour and tasting at a very fine local winery. The tour for my wife and me was provided by the daughter of the owner because "they didn't give tours", but that is another story. By the end of the tour we had established a pretty good relationship and we asked her to reccomend a good restaurant for that evening. She gave us two that she frequented and we took our leave returning to Orvieto. We found each of the two restaurants, but it was Monday and you know what I am going to say. "They were closed". We were in a quandry. Then we spotted a gentleman we had met the day before. He was talking to the owner of a shoe store on one of the main shopping arteries in Orvieto. He beckoned us to come over and we were introduced to the shop owner. We told them of our predicament and they began to ruminate, "what could we do on a Monday"? They quickly sorted through the options and came up with a suggestion. The shop owner went inside to call the restaurant they had in mind and get us a reservation. Success! Back to our Hotel for a quick clean up and off we went for our little adventure. The restaurant was called Ristorante il Consorti; a small, but elegantly decorated dinning room that spoke of Old Italy. We were greeted and seated by the owner and after some conversation, he provided complimentary aperitifs. We decide on the five course tasting menu with paired wines. What a treat. We started with a raddichio and arugala salad with chopped tomatoes, 3 quails eggs on top and a warm proscuitto dressing. This was followed by a timbale of pureed beans and vegetables with a garnish of fresh tomatoe and basil and lightly dressed with seasoned olive oil. The next course was a grilled loin lamb chop with a homemade aioli based sauce accompanied by braised chard and polenta. We then chose from several local cheeses and, finally, each chose a different dessert so we could share in the selections. One was a custard in a puff pastry drizzeled with a chocolate sauce. The other was a chocolate mousse drizzeled with a custard sauce. Each of these courses was served with an appropriate local wine including a dessert wine. The atmosphere, the conviviality of the owner, the exceptional food and wine and the manner by which we came by the restaurant made for one of the most memorable of our European Adventures. If this restaurant is still there, try it. You won't regret it.

Grazie! I am on my way! Printed and taking this with me... <BR>Wendy

Hi Wendy (again): Our favorite book is Plotkin's Italy for the Gourmet Traveler. It lists his favorite wineries, bakeries, etc as well as restaurants. We tried several of his recommendations. Three places we had great food follow and at least one is from his book. The first was a small little atmospheric trattoria in Spello called Il Trombone; it has outdoor patio w/ terrific view, and, at night, there is live music. We had delicious crostini to start with good wine, then various dishes such as tagliatelle (sp) w/ wild mushrooms or a good soup. Sorry cannot remember exact items, but do remember it was all quite tasty. The next delight was dinner in Spoleto, where we dined right next to the Duomo in Plotkin's only Spoleto choice. The owner speaks good English and we enjoyed his history of his times in the restaurant business. At one point, we were the only 4 in the place (it was early), so we were treated as royalty. My husband and brother had WONDERFUL guinea hen, while the ladies had pasta dishes. The owner apparently liked us alot, so he made a fuss over us, and he treated us to a favored 1995 dessert wine, a dessert sampler plate AND roasted chestnuts. WE enjoyed lingering and talking as the restaurant began to fill up--a really enjoyable evening. Lastly, my husband and I had a romantic lunch in Orvieto at a little place called trattoria La Grotta, which is off a side street to the left of the Duomo if you are facing it. The highlights of the experience were being the only English speakers in the place and a bottle of incredible Orvieto Classico!! I ate a salad and a bowl of soup, my husband had pasta; these were quite good, but the wine was divine!! These meals were all wonderful for a combination of reasons, but my main thought is: I've NEVER had a bad meal in Italy from the simplest soup to the most gourmet entree. I hope you enjoy your trip; I know you'll enjoy the food!! Regards, Sally OOOOPS, the Spoleto restaurant is called Tric Trac.

GREAT! I'll let Fred know you use his book like I do...seeing that meals enjoyed are included in his book speaks volumes. I'm letting him know what works and doesn't .... <BR>Thank you!

In a ancient, small restaurant just off the square in Perugia (near the fountain) had scrumptious steak in truffle sauce, accompanied by a local wine. Dessert was a yummy white chocolate concoction.

MMmmmmm!

Any updates to this useful post, now that we're deep into the summer season?

Good thread. I'll be in Umbria late October with Assisi as base. Any recommendation in Assisi?

The wonderful luncheon prepared by and served in the home of our Assisi tourguide, Anne Robichaud. It was our favorite meal in Italy! Her tour was great too. (See www.annesitaly.com)

In Assisi the Restaurant LaFortezza was excellent in Oct. '99. Wonderful food with many local dishes and great service. Reservations recommended as it was filled at book lunch and dinner. They also have a few rooms available for about $45/night. Clean, comfortable and decent size. Enjoy! <BR>Jean

Ignore that posting by Leslie. It's an attempt at a free ad! Those people never give up!

We had lunch at Tric Trac next to the Duomo in Spoleto. We too were the only 3 people in the dining area and we might be early (12:40 pm) but I didn't see a lot of people even outside. The food was OK but not great. I think the turn off here was the cover charge which was L5000/person. Usually in most Umbrian restaurants the average charge is only L3000. Nevertheless, like most of Italy, you could never go wrong with restaurants in Umbria.

Try La Rocchicciola, near Assisi, in the small and beautiful village of Rocca Saint Angelo. It was the recommendation of the owner of the villa we were staying at and gave us one of the best meals of our trip and all for 93000 francs. Pietro and his wife Irene ( she is originally from Aberdeen, Scotland) make wonderful hosts: she is out front in the charming dark and cool room covered in a mix of her own art and some clever Scottish military artifacts from her own father's military career and he does the cooking, everything chnges daily based on availability. Petro makes the best straccietelli au gratin ever, the salads were superb and their wine is local and excellent. We were charmed even before my husband discovered that out back, in his garage, Pietro has one of the best collections of vintage Italian motorbikes going (over 100). Two great passions satisfied in one evening! We came back twice and bought a painting that Irene did, now on the wall in front of me to remind us of that special time.

Another wonderful spot in Orvieto: Giglio d`Oro <BR>The chef suggests a menu each day -- do yourself a favor and choose that! Each course was magnificent, starting with an eggplant mousse, dressed with truffle and roasted red peppers. mmmmmmmm. <BR>Stepping into the reception area from the Duomo Square is like walking through a time warp of many centuries. The decor is very modern, sophisticated and sleek, yet it all fits together beautifully. The service is as professional and impressive as the food is delicious and the menu well put-together. This was one of our best meals over the three weeks we spent in Italy. <BR>Location: Facing Orvieto`s exquisite Duomo, it is to your left. <BR>We are forever grateful to the front desk folks at Aquila Bianca (also a great place to stay) for recommending this restaurant and for making our reservation! <BR>

Caffe di Perugia (in central Perugia, 10 via Mazzini) is a particular favourite of ours because of its diversity. We have had a couple of lovely lunches there in the 'mezzanine'area immediately above the cafe (where you can get superb pastries to go). But the highlight was a dinner upstairs in La Sala dello Zodiaco, a tribute to Perugian artist Scotti, amazingly beautiful in design with superb (albeit pricey) food. On various ocassions I have had the variation on risotto made with 'spelt' that is a speciality of the area, wild boar in Chianti and a pasta pesto with almonds instead of pine-nuts that was incredible. Also, the single best salad I have ever eaten- just baby artichokes,shaved aged parmesan and flavoured olive oil, but s-o-o amazingly presented... I have to go and eat now!

I resent the anonymous poster who claimed I'm advertising for Anne Robichaud. I don't get to travel much but had a memorable two week trip to Italy with my family in April and all four of us agreed she served us the best meal of our trip! I have no other relationship to her, no ongoing contact with her. Just a satisfied customer.

Have meant to post for a couple of days, but have left my notes at home. That's where the name of the place is. At any rate, we had a wonderful meal at a restaurant in the little town of Pigge, a "suburb" of Trevi. As I recall, it had the word Psecatore in it. It is across the highway from Pigge and fronts a stream. My secondo consisted only of grilled porcini. Memorable. (It may be listed in Fred Plotkin's book.)

Any more?

topping for more!

There is a small restaurant in Orvieto whose name had something to do with Pinocchio, if memory serves me right. We were there in October and had a simple meal but my wife ordered the pasta with truffles, and the waiter came with the dishes and then grated from a truffle larger than a golf ball enough shavings to turn the whole dish black. The taste was unforgettable.

There's a wonderful restaurant in Spello, Il Molino. It's across the street from the Palazzo Bocci Hotel, so just follow the signs. The specialty is grilled meats, and there is an open hearth in the dining room, where they cook the meat. The aroma is to die for! Everything is excellent, including the service. the best thing is to stay in the town, so you don't have to drive home after dinner. The Palazzo Bocci is a wonderful and not too expensive. There's another good restuarant in Spello: Il Caciatore-La Terazza. In good weather, lunch is served on the terrace (of course), with a wonderful view of the countryside. They sometimes have tour groups stopping there, but it didn't stop us from enoying ourselves!

A year and a half later and I'v been back to Taverna del Pescatore in Pigge several times. I now recommend lunch in good weather under the giant hyperbolic parabaloid tent along side the little stream (complete with tiny waterfall). The food and atmosphere are memorable.

And when I reread your question containing a reference to olive oil, I feel compeled to note the following: My wife and I stayed last spring and fall at Le Case Gialle, near Gualdo Cataneo, not far from Bevagna. The proprietor of the collection of apartments, Mauro Colona, last year received the first prize in a national competition for organic olive oils. He received an award from the Minister of Agriculture in December. The competition had over three thousand entrants. I have three bottles left from the six he shipped me last November and, I guess its time to reload. Every dinner guest in my house has been awed by the oil.

orvieto the pasta and tartufo was great but the best was the roasted braised wild boar that and a good bottle of chianti try it you wont forget that meal

DRJ,<BR><BR>You are SO lucky (olio)! I am dreaming of another foodie trip trhough Umbria! I am hoping for April! Any other suggestions?<BR><BR>I need to get out my notes and post a reply for the places I ended up going...<BR><BR>Wendy

I thought I replied to this thread yesterday, but it seems to not have posted...weird..anyways...<BR><BR>By chance, we passed in front of a restaurant called Duca di Orvieto (they have a website). They were holding a special medieval banquet night. It was 7 courses with paired wines. Before each course the chef and the sommelier would describe the food and wine and why they were paired. The atmosphere was VERY convival and festive. We were the only non-locals. The meal took 4+ hours. It was truly a memorable experience for us.<BR><BR>If you're in Orvieto check them out. I think they do special events like that once a month or once every couple of months.

Wendy_Lyn:<BR><BR>I can also recommend La Bastiglia at the top of the little hilltown of Spello. Nice hotel, excellent kitchen. In Bevagna are Enoteca Piazza Onofri in center of town and Trattoria Ottavius, near the south gate. In Perugia, the outdoor courtyard at Hotel Rosetta right in Piazza Italia. Also, almost anywhere in Norcia is good.

topping

Dog Mother:<BR>I just replied to your other post, but must recommend that while in Umbria you visit the Arnaldo Caprai fattoria near Montefalco and purchase a bottle or two of their Sagrantino. Also nearby to Montefalco is the Paolo Bea winery. Small, but excellent.

Thank you for these recommendations, DRJ!

ttt

My dear DM,

Are you planning to visit Umbria?

How did you guess??

Yes, I am going for about 16 days in May/June 2005. We will stay in Tuscany for a week and Umbria for a week.

I want to do Slow Trav, small/tiny villages, see the birds, walk the land, use my Italian which I'm trying to teach myself, etc.

DM

Have you asked your question at www.slowtrav.com?

Hee hee, which question??? I've asked quite a few lately.

I'm not a card-carrying, dues-paying member of Slow Trav....so I don't believe I am allowed to post questions. But I'm a Big Lurker on that site.

What are your travel experiences in Italy, and particularly Tuscany and Umbria? Are you can American?

What are some of the really, really small villages in those provinces you would suggest I visit?

DM

DM,

You don't have to pay dues to post on slowtrav.

There are a good number of restaurant review for Umbria on slow trav. For Umbria info, slow trav can't be beat!

My most memorable meal in Umbria? Any one where I ordered pasta con tartufo (with truffles) The flavor is earthy,unique and wonderful. To me it's passion defined as flavor.

jan

Looking for a little more input--we leave in 9 days! Thanks for your suggestions.

If you happen to be in Gubbio I quite enjoyed Taverna del Lupo. We had the tasting menu of bruschetta with ham, home made ravioli with zucchini and porcini mushrooms sauce, fillet of veal with rosemary and balsamic sauce,eggplants and mushrooms, and chantilly cream puffs. Oh yeah, and two bottles of vino. The setting and service were supurb. 106E in '02.
If you visit Todi, Ristorante Umbria is out of this world, and you need reservations.