Wonderful Paris trip except .....
 

The night we got stuck for 20 minutes in the elevator of a famous site. Just returned from 10 days in Paris and, of course, it's early a.m. and I am wide awake. For anyone contemplating Paris Perfect apartments, they are great. My daughter and I stayed in Sancerre. It would have been very comfortable for four people but six is doable but would have been tight as it only has one toilet but does have two baths. The apartment was exactly as the pictures indicate. It was immaculate but whoever stayed there before had some stinky cheese and the refrigerator had a slight odor. Wonderful bed linen and down covers.

A few observations:

l. As ATM's seem to only give 50e at a time - get change anywhere you can. No one wants to make change. Taxi's and grocery stores will ask for correct change.

2. Count change from Taxi's - they will cheat when they can.

3. There is occasional dog poop.

4. Saw public urination only once and that was on taxi ride from airport upon arrival.

5. Always, always carry an umbrella.
Even when the day starts out sunny.

6. Cabs, although expensive, can save time. Metro can sometimes be confusing.

7. You will see small dogs everywhere. Even the finest restaurants. They are in pocketbooks, baskets, backpacks, inside coats and on leashes.

8. Do not drive a car in Paris. Interestingly, only saw one dented car. But it is like watching bumper cars with no collisions. Repeat, do not drive in Paris.

9. You can wear anything you want. Young people wear jeans. No one except Americans and joggers wore white sneakers. Some Parisian women will wear high heels while driving a motor scooter. Their heels are so pointed I can't imagine that their feet aren't screaming for help. Wear comfortable shoes.

10. It's cheaper to order wine than a soda in a restaurant. Waiters will bring tap water if you ask.

We went to a ballet performance at the
Bastille and a modern dance at the Opera house -- magnificant building - recommend you visit the building.

The cooking class at le Violon d'Ingres with Chef Christian Constant was absolutely the best. When we woke up Monday morning, my daughter I who love to shop (and we did shop and "window lick" almost every day) were wondering if we made the right decision to give up a day to cook. Absolutely we did. Only 9 people in the class. It was one of the major highlights of our trip. If you are going to be in Paris on the first Monday in May or June, sign up for the class. You will not regret it.

We ate at l'Angle du Faubourg one evening. Had the tasting menu which was wonderful.
About seven courses. Also ate at le Violin d' Ingres. We were sitting across from a Parisian couple. The woman just looked at us and wouldn't acknowledge that we were even human beings. But after
Christian came to our table several times to talk to us (with an intrepreter) and woman was very friendly, smiled at me and ordered the same dessert I had ordered after she heard me rave about it. I am sure she wondered how these Americans could possibly be so friendly with the owner and chef.

As I have never posted this much before, don't know what my limit is. Will continue with the elevator incident later. Thanks for listening. I do love Paris.

Please tell us which "famous site" you are talking about.

Great report! But I do have one objection/question. Did numerous cab drivers try to short-change you or just one? And are you sure it wasn't an honest mistake? We use cabs quite often. Nineteen years of cab rides. And to the best of my recollection it's never happened.

Dave in Paris -


Thank you for your comment. This only happened once. The driver apologized and gave me the correct change. I should not have generalized. Perhaps you can answer a question for me. Sometimes we were asked by the driver where we wanted to go before we allowed to get into the cab - other times we just hopped in. What might be the reason for this? One night we saw a woman waiting for a cab, she spoke with the driver, was not picked-up. Another cab came along and picked her up. Thanks.

wonderful report so far!

i am absolutely howling this morning with your "window lick" description...i think i will adopt it as my new favorite silly thing to say!

more, more...we want more details!

TAxi drivers asking where you want to go first is not uncommon. SOme are going off shift and don't want to have to drive miles back to their base or home..some don't ant to go too far out where they won't be able to pick up a return fare. I don't know about PAris..never had it happen there..maybe we just get in too fast.. but in London , if you get into the taxi, the driver is required to take you where you want to go.

I'm not sure of the law in Paris, but otherwise I second Jody's thoughts on possible reasons for this question about where you're going. Sometimes the driver also will also ask after departure if you have a preferred route. The "best route" -- that is, shortest in time -- may vary depending on traffic conditions, and we usually leave this to the driver. We have, on rare occasions, been taken a little out the way, but never very far, and if this happens we simply don't tip.

I *believe* that Paris taxi drivers are legally allowed to refuse to pick up a passenger if they are at the end of their shift and the destination is not on their route home.

Hi, welcome back! I sort of started to like my jet lag, getting up so early and walking around in a daze LOL

We enjoyed meeting Christian Constant at Le Violon also, but I noticed that he went to all the tables. We had friends with us who speak fluent French so I do know he spent a bit more time at our table because our friend was making him laugh ( Lord knows what he said to him! probably something about the bumpkins he was with LOL)
The linens in those apts are nice, aren't they! I loved the comforters. Did you have a Nepresso espresso maker in yours? I want one :)

Sorry this trip report is in bits and pieces but my head is spinning and this is the best I am capable of.

Security: I bought a money waist belt at Target before I left and was extremely happy using it. I kept my ATM and one credit card in it. I realize I looked pretty dorky raising my shirt (just a little and maybe exposing l/4 inch of my waist - but heck I'm almost a senior citizen and come to think of it, I really no longer have a waist). We both used Ameribags and they worked out very well. When we wanted our hands free, on the Metro or shopping we would carry them around the front of our body. We referred to them as our "bagpipes". I carried a copy of my passport and since the apartment had a safe, kept passport and extra credit card there. My daughter lives outside of NYC and spent several years in downtown Chicago so is fairly streetsmart. One day, while shopping near Louvre, a man was watching us. When we moved from one store to the next he moved along with us and just leaned against the outside post of the store. My daughter saw him before I did and she gave him a look right into his eyes "sort of the hairy eyeball look", looked at him up and down just to let him know that we knew he was watching us and we were watching him. He immediately disappeared. Again were asked if we spoke English by a gypsy at the Arch, said no, and she started to follow us. Again, hairy eyeball routine and immediately a new victim was found. Because I recently had knee surgery (eventual knee replacement coming), I carried a cane. Was actually glad I did, as there are lots of cobblestones and just gave me some extra support. Especially helpful with all the Metro stairs. Does anyone know how many levels of the Metro system there are? My daughter couldn't understand why Paris hasn't collapsed into a big "sinkhole" and vanish into the Metro system. Every Parisian looked at my cane. Nothing special about it, just a black collapsable Rubbermaid cane. Only saw two other people with canes. But was offered a seat on the Metro by a lady older than me and also by a young gentleman. Carrying a cane was sort of like the "parting of the Red Sea". That was not my intent, just didn't want to fall.
We just tried to be always aware of who was around us especially at night.

I am surprised at your experience with ATMs. I have been to Paris many times and ATMs give you as much as you request up to about E300 and maybe more. You do have to make a choice and maybe if you didn't choose, you would get E50.

Scarlett:

Thanks for the welcome back. We had the machine that takes the ampules - is that the machine you had? Whatever we had, I want one too. The handbags in Paris are beautiful aren't they? I limited myself to three and one Longchamps. Now I am going to have to spend hours changing handbags every day. Have always just carried one bag year round because I hate to schlep all my junk from one to the other. But they were just too unique to resist.

Mamc:

Must have been unclear in my writing. At the ATM machine I used I could get E300 but it was all E50's. It would have been easier if I was given E20's. Do certain ATM's give smaller demoninations? I used the same ATM when I wanted cash because it was around the corner from my apt.

I think she is saying the ATM dispenses larger bills, ie. 50€ rather than 10s or 20s..making it more difficult to spend for smaller purchases.

Yes, that is the Nepresso. They are $395 at Williams Sonoma so I want to find one just like them but for less!
Which Longchamp bag did you get? Color?
I admit to giving in to the Pink craze and bought a small pink Longchamp clutch :)

The Elevator story, please :D

Great report so far, keep it coming.

one comment about only getting €50 at a time from ATMs. if you mean you could only get €50 total I really don't understand - I've gotten as much as €500.

But if you mean the machine only issues €50 notes - if you ask for an amount divisible by 50 that may be true (I don't remember for sure). But if you ask for a different amount -- €230 for instance you would definitely get smaller bills.

benitakaren - we were posting at the same time. Yes, all machines have smaller bills . . . . .

We have twice been refused a taxi in Paris because the trip was too short

Am hoping to take my 14-year old son to Paris next year and will definitely request an odd amount from the ATM machine. Thanks. If anyone is wondering, there is a 20-year difference in age in my children. It is called "inappropriate planning".

Now the elevator story. It is our last night in Paris. We have had a wonderful view of the Eiffel Tower for days but just couldn't seem to walk over for the trip to the top. Finally, this is the night. It is cold, rainy and windy. With umbrella in hand, off we go.

There is no line and we walk right to the elevator. Up to second level and walk one flight up to get the next elevator to the top. I am usually unafraid of heights but it is so cold and light rain that we decide to walk around second level to adjust. Outside was rather nice, no wind, took pictures and enjoyed the view. Then walking to other side and huge gust of wind, umbrella inverted, felt like we were going to be "Mary Poppined" over the edge. Immediately back inside to regroup. Both decided that we had done enough and we could live, on this particular night, with the second level and not the top. Waited for the elevator down, got on with about 15 other people. Doors closed and we started to move, then stopped. The elevator operator started pushing buttoms and nothing happened. He started making verbal and hand gestures to the man outside and just stood there. He was very calm (thank heavens). After about five minutes and still more hand gestures I asked him to interpret. He said there was a mechanical problem and the doors wouldn't open. It would be a few minutes. My thought was, are we going to go rocketing down to the bottom. Finally man came to side we were standing on and told people waiting for the elevator to go to the other side for their ride down. Then shut off the standing area to get on our elevator. I knew at that point, that we had a slight problem.

The wife of the couple standing next to me was sheet white and her lips were trembling. What started out as people chatting suddenly became very quiet. The operator was finally pushing all the buttons, nothing happening and said we just can't open the doors. So there we sat. I'm thinking, why didn't we ride to the top. It couldn 't have been worse than this. The outside operator is walking back and forth just shaking his head at our operator. After about 20 minutes, the doors opened and we were told to get off and take another elevator. Like I was going to stay on that elevator!

Walked to other side and waited for new elevator and when it came people were so upset that it was a stampede to get on and almost got trampled. That was almost scarier that being trapped.

Was very relieved to get to bottom. My daughter said she never has to go to the top.

We were never told what happened. Don't really know if it was a door problem on not.

Does anyone know if this happens regularly?

Where can one get change--as in coins--in Paris? On more than once occasion when I was there a couple years ago, people wanted exact change and didn't even want to break a 5 or 10 Euro note. It seems like I was always hurting and hunting for coins. I found out on my last morning there that my hotel could make change but I'm staying at a different hotel this coming September. Almost every bank had a sign saying that they didn't make change. Will exchange bureaus make change? Any other suggestions out there?

Thanks!

wow! What an experience!!!
Welcome home and back to fodors with your wonderful post.
Wishing you a speedy recovery after your knee replacement.

Scarlett:

Longchamps black bag, sort of shiny - could be used as casual or dressy. Red backpack bag with calalilly design on back - Furla, obligatory, pink with attachments to change look and my daughter bought me a Furla black, with silver medallion on one strap. We were totally out of control. But it only gets worse. During the cooking class, Christian was cooking vegetables in a small pot and put in a handful of salt. Everyone just gasped - I only use a few shakes of salt at home. He said go to Bon Marche grocery for salt. So, of course, off we went. Well, there are so many kinds we didn't know what to buy. He said he buys the salt in the tall, thin container. So we bought every size they had. While unpacking this morning, I realized that I have enough salt for two to three lifetimes. And then we saw this beautifully colored toilet paper. Some with roses, some with ducks, reading paper, etc. Now don't you just know, we came home with toilet paper. \

We both came down with the flu during the trip - she lost one day, I lost l/2 day. During her sick day, I went to the cooking store, Dehillerin, and bought a gadget to strain soup and one to mash vegetables. Very elegant. I hand dip chocolates for friends at Christmas and bought three different types of dipping utensils. Then to professional uniform shop to buy a hat and apron for my son. He likes to cook.

We did visit all the top spots except the Arch. We followed the signs one day to get underground and after a long walk and many stairs we ended up where we had started. So decided we would try something different. Another day, we found ourselves at the Arch, found the correct entrance point and walked the long, dark hallway. It was too much for me - that was my sick day and we left and took cab back to apartment.
Came home with lots of chocolate, macaroons from Lauderee and lots of Fauchon goodies. It was a wonderful trip. My daughter is my best friend and it was such a delightful time to show her Paris. She now has fallen in love with Paris. Thank you all for letting me share my trip with you.

Thank you for sharing your trip with us. Your report was wonderful and I think you would be an absolutely terrific traveling companion. Your daughter is very fortunate!

Regarding those ATMs, we are spoiled at home with our withdrawals all coming out in 20's normally. But in Europe, yes, everything seems to be in 50's, a little big for the small change use we tend to make of cash. We did learn to enter 330 to get a 20 and a 10, but still the rest were all 50's.

Incidenatally, we really laughed in Las Vegas when I once did a $300 withdrawal and out came 3 -$100 bills!

Benitakarn, sounds like a wonderful trip! (Oh, for a daughter) and I love your calling the Ameribags your bagpipes! I'm sure I'll think of that every time I hitch it in front of me.

Regarding getting smaller bills and change - we went to Italy and had the same problem. Finally I took out Rick's Steves phrase book, practiced how to say "Would you please change this into smaller bills", stood in line at a bank and the guy there was more than happy to do it for me. After my saying the phrase in Italian (don't remember it any more) He said "Yes certainly" in perfect English, even asking if I wanted coins. But I think trying to say it in Italian made him more willing to help me out.

Joelle

What a delightful report, Benitakaren. I can identify with your shopping style except that I would have added shoes, at least 2 pairs.

Hi Benita,
We are your balcony buddies from across the street. I hope you received the photos we emailed you from the cooking class. For all you Fodorites out there you should know that Benita and her daughter were the added spice to the cooking class. Our forced move because of the scaffolding necessitated by the outside buiding cleaning has been a blessing in disguise. The apartment we moved to, St. Emilion, is superbly decorated, light and spacious; 2 roomy baths and 2 toilets...you should consider it over Sancerre next time, not that Sancerre is at all shabby. Please let us know what you thought of Astrance.

Hi Laidback:

I sent you an e-mail last night. Thanks for the pictures, they were wonderful. I got so sick that we couldn't make Astrance. I was very, very disappointed because I was so excited to eat there. I am already preparing my husband for Paris next year. Please tell me all about St. Emilion apt. What is the view like? I am definitely hooked on Paris Perfect. Just talked to daughter, she is walking around in a daze and trying to take care of her two daughters. How long will jet lag last? I have to sleep sometime soon.

Interesting report, although some experiences aren't mine, and I've never been cheated by a taxi, either. Maybe I'm remembering wrong, but I don't remember soda being more than wine, either, typically. I don't really order soda, but it seems to me all drinks as refreshment cost about the same (wine, beer, sada, fancy mineral water).

As for ATMS, yes, you should have tried another one. Some do give out other denominations than 50s, and maybe it's even by location. I just know BP ATMs always give me 50s only, and BNP will give other types of bills. For instance, if you withdraw 100 euro (which I typically do), BNP might give you a 50, 20, 20 and 10, whereas BP will only give 2 50s. I try to remember to punch in 140 euro as you know you'll have to get 2 20s that way, but I forget sometimes.

I do agree with the umbrella advice, only when it has been clear for several days and the forecast is absolutely no rain, do I go out without one.

The fight for small change is the one drawback of using ATMs. I've found this "problem" in Mexico and sometimes in Europe (excepting Switzerland!).

I have managed to get large bills broken by asking "smaller change, please?" in spanish at currency exchange booths or banks. Also by always remembering to break the largest bill reasonable at big & busy grocery or department stores.

benitakaren~~ Thanks for taking the time to make this great trip report with all the handy details and tips you are sharing!!

6. Cabs, although expensive, can save time. Metro can sometimes be confusing.

I know this might be a matter of opinion, but I feel Paris metro has a very understandable metro, and I don't know that one can necessarily save time in a taxi, depending on the traffic. Taxis can be handy if you arrive with too much luggage(which I did, until I switched to backpacking). Otherwise, depending on one's budget, the extra money spent on taxis could be used on a nicer meal.

BenitaKaren - Thank you for sharing your Paris trip with us and what fun it must have been to share it with your "best friend." I am leaving for Paris 2 weeks from today...but who's counting...I am. I am so excited.

Madison:

Looking forward to reading your trip report upon your return. Hope you have a wonderful time.

Benita

Great report benitakaren. I have been dying to hear about someone's adventures at Longchamps. It sounds like you bought them out. Good for you! I'm not sure if I dare set foot inside, it might be my major event for 1 whole day in Paris. Your elevator ride must have been very nerve-wracking to say the least. How many people will have this story to relate. We are leaving in 3 weeks and also staying at Paris Perfect. I can't wait! Thanks again for such a fun accounting.

Okay, I'll admit that the toilet paper is a new one on me--but I probably would have done the same thing!

Very enjoyable report of a memorable trip.

Sighing, you did good! The bags sound great and all those other goodies!
Toilet paper- was the paper in the apt the worst?? that was the one and only sign of scrimping in that apt..it was the sort of paper a gas station might have in its bathrooms. We went straight to the FranPrix and bought flowered paper also :)
I also loved the scent of the laundry soap they gave us so I bought a box and brought that home, in a few weeks, I will need to wash some sheets with that soap so when I fall asleep with that scent, I can pretend I am back in Paris ((F))
I would have been the person on the elevator with my head between my legs, gasping for air, I have this thing about elevators and getting stuck in them or falling out of them :D
What???
Doesn't everyone??

"Metro can sometimes be confusing."

Sometimes? When is that?

it's maybe because I'm French but I've never had any real problem breaking bills. you just go into a bakery and buy a "pain au chocolat" and say " desole je n'ai pas de monnaie" and that's it! if the guy is reluctant, try the next shop, I've never been said no twice in a row...
but it's true one has to avoid paying with E 100 bills, people just wouldn't understand what one does with such big bills
As for the metro vs. taxi, do as you feel, the metro is cheaper and quicker, unless you have to use 3 different lines, but less comfortable... i personnaly avoid using it after 11 pm, not really dangerous, it's just hat the proportion of winos increases and makes it even less comfortable