Will Walk for Food: Winter Wandering in Switzerland
 

Visiting Switzerland and/or Germany in winter has become a bit of a tradition for us, and 2018 was no exception. We generally go pre-ski season, base ourselves in small villages, stay in apartments and get around on foot, train and bus. We’re slow, walk/hike-centric travelers, our trips lasting three to four weeks, usually 5-7 nights in a handful of locations.

As ski season approaches and prices rise in Switzerland, we usually head to Germany to visit Christmas Markets, eat, drink and be merry, ending in our departure city of choice, Munich.

This year we decided to mix it up a bit, incorporating a few quiet weeks in Switzerland, some quality time in Austria and a few days to wind down in Munich. Thus a plan formed – fly into Zurich, depart from Munich.

We waffled endlessly about which Swiss villages to base ourselves in, wanting to maximize our chances for winter sunshine, yet also thinking with our stomachs - Capuns, Pizokels, Nusstorte! That meant only one thing – the canton of Graubünden, an area we’ve visited many times, yet can’t seem to get enough of.

But where exactly? After much faffing about we agreed on Flims (a ski region in the Surselva district, high above the Rhine gorge) and Zuoz (a small village in the Upper Engadine). We’d never stayed in either, but knew from past visits that both are well positioned for day trips and winter walking.

Austria was a wildcard - we’d seen bits of the country previously, but these glimpses were so brief and so long ago that we barely remember. It was time to give Austria a good explore; the combination of mountains, lakes, potential snow and Christmas cheer too good to pass up.

And so the itinerary

Flims - (Graubünden, Switzerland) – seven nights

Zuoz (Graubünden, Switzerland) – six nights

Seefeld in Tirol (Austria) – five nights

St Gilgen (Salzkammergut, Austria) – five nights

Munich, Germany – two nights

Trying to get there

It isn’t possible to get from Colorado to Zurich without connecting somewhere, so we booked flights with Iceland Air back in August, having flown with them in May 2017 and having had a decent enough experience.

Unfortunately, ten days after booking, they contacted us and lowered the boom; their once daily flight from DEN-KEF had been cancelled on our date of travel. We were given the option of departing Denver a day earlier, spending a night in Reykjavik and taking the onward flight to Zurich as planned (claiming our expenses after-the-fact, but not being told exactly what would be covered).

We very briefly considered this option, thinking it might be an opportunity to see the Northern Lights. Having visited Iceland previously, we knew that we’d need to arrange transport from KEF to Reykjavik (about a 45 minute drive), and then back again early the next morning; and we’d likely not be able to check into accommodation until late in the afternoon (Denver flight arrives in Iceland around 6 am).

The headaches and uncertainty involved far exceeded the tiny chance that we’d see the Northern Lights, so we declined.

After much discussion with the Iceland Air representative, we decided that moving the entire trip forward by two days was our best option.

Some two months later I received another text from Iceland Air, asking us to call. Uh-oh, this can’t be good.

It wasn’t. This time they’d cancelled the flight from KEF-Zurich. Their solution was to re-route us from KEF to Stockholm, then on to Zurich, where we’d arrive six hours later than planned. We’d then need to take two trains and a bus to Flims - our first base in Switzerland - not even sure they’d be operating so late - and then try to find our apartment in the dark, in an unfamiliar area. Hmmmm, I don’t think so.

We were also offered a flight to another airport from KEF, but the closest served by Iceland Air, Munich, would involve extensive train travel to get to Zurich, plus the same issues as the first option, not to mention the additional costs involved, which the Iceland Air representative said we could claim after-the-fact. Call me skeptical.

Asked if, given the late arrival, we could be reimbursed for a night in Zurich instead, and then move on to our first Swiss base the following day, thus losing a night of already booked accommodation, we were told an emphatic NO.

So, we opted once again to move the flight from DEN-KEF a day earlier, now necessitating three extra nights in Switzerland. Good thing we like Switzerland. And are retired.

Suffice to say, we had to wonder what else might go wrong, but Iceland Air managed to get us to Reykjavik (KEF). We both lucked into empty seats next to us, but didn’t manage any sleep as the plane was just too hot, our fellow passengers noisy and active.

Once at KEF, we had enough time to scarf down a tub of SKYR (me) and suck down a Snorri (Bill), fill our water bottles and queue at the gate for our connecting flight to Zurich (the only seating we saw was in the food purchase area).

It’s worth noting that Iceland Air only offers food for purchase in cattle class, and it’s quite limited. We’d packed nourishment for both legs of the journey (and good thing, as when it comes to Iceland Air and KEF, there’s often no time to make a purchase at the airport).

Trying to get home

Fast forward to our return flights, leaving from Munich, connecting in Reykjavik (KEF) and onward to Denver - with a comfortable one hour and 20 minute connection.

Or so we thought. Our flight from Munich left late. We landed at KEF ten minutes before boarding for our connecting flight began.

We deplaned, raced to the loo, filled our water bottles, went through Immigration and found our Terminal (D), which was filled to capacity with a sea of confused passengers, all frantic to make their tight connections (the business model of Iceland Air). It was utter chaos.

We asked an airport employee where we were meant to queue for the Denver flight – she waved to a cluster of people. We joined, but after asking others in ‘line’ learned it was for a flight to JFK. We wandered, asking who might be waiting for the Denver flight, finally finding a group who thought they were, so we joined the queue. We waited. And waited. And waited. Nothing moved but the hands of our watches.

A look at our boarding passes revealed that Iceland Air had changed our seats - the aisle seats we had specifically booked four months in advance - putting Bill in the dreaded middle seat. Argh…

Eventually, they began to open the gates one by one for the numerous flights – all of which seemed to be leaving within 5-10 minutes of one another. Our line finally began to move, we squished on board, the flight completely full, and needless to say, rather late.

We want to like Iceland Air, we really do, but…their connections are stressful, KEF chaotic, their flying culvert single aisle 757’s difficult to maneuver in, terrifying to contemplate evacuating from. We’ll think long and hard before flying with them again.

But enough about the flights, on with the trip.

To be continued...

Arrival

Upon arrival in Zurich, we purchased Half Fare Cards (120 CHF each) and tickets to Flims (train to Haupftbahnhof, IC train to Chur, then bus to Flims Dorf, 29.10 CHF each at half fare), cashed up at the ATM, picked up a few snacks and were on our way.

We’d booked an apartment through Airbnb and could not have been happier with our choice – great location, fantastic price (USD $80 per night, all in), well equipped, comfortable and warm. It’s located in a complex of six units, all empty at the time of our visit, so we had the run of the place.

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/24033215?guests=1&adults=1

It’d been a long exhausting day, we were in bed an hour after we arrived at the apartment, 5:30 pm! And then predictably, up at 2 am, getting settled, sorting out the WIFI, searching online for directions in English for the elaborate espresso maker…and waiting for the Coop to open at 8 so we could buy provisions; it felt like it’d never get light.

Flims - Day 1

Our first cold, gloomy day in Flims was spent getting our bearings; walking up the steep hill from our apartment to the village Coop (which was due to move two days later to a bigger location, but still surprisingly well stocked), then back down to make breakfast, then back up to the Information Office to look into walking options, etc.

There was no snow, and as one would expect pre-ski season, more closed than open.

We’d done our due diligence, checking operating schedules and making a short list of restaurants that would be open during our stay. We certainly didn’t plan to go hungry.

We walked the entire village from end to end, detoured up side streets, walked up to the posh hotel and spa Waldhaus, workers feverishly stringing lights on trees in preparation for ski season. We were surprised to find so much development on this hill overlooking Flims – Google tells me that Waldhaus Flims is the largest ‘hotel park’ in Switzerland, with a footprint of 200,000 square meters and comprised of some 24 buildings. And almost completely deserted on this late November morning. Beauty.

Lunch found us at Haci’s Anatolia Kebab, busy with locals and construction crews (many of whom were working on the new Stenna business complex – home to the new Coop amongst other things - https://stennaflims.ch/en/.) All of Flims seemed under construction; teeming with High Vis clad workers, trucks and cranes.

We were instantly pegged as non-German, non-Romansch speaking tourists, warmly welcomed, directed to a table and asked what we’d like. We tucked into a massive kebab and lingered over beer and Prosecco long after the hurried lunch crowd had moved on, enabling us to have a nice chat with the friendly and efficient Kurdish proprietor.

We decided to walk up to the tiny village of Fidaz, situated above Flims and at the foot of the Flimserstein. The going was steep, and while Fidaz probably offers some fab views on a clear day, today was anything but clear. We were surprised, not for the first time, by the abundance of copper used on roofs and chimneys in Switzerland.

Back in Flims we popped into a bakery to pick up our first Bündner Nusstorte, and then retreated to our apartment to warm it in the oven and make hot chocolate.

Without meaning to, we’d logged some 7.5 miles; so much for taking it easy on our first day.https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e681d2f95.jpg
Flims

To be continued…

Thank you martharap!

Melnq8, Sorry about the frustrating start to your trip, but your description makes for interesting reading. Hope your trip went smoothly after you got settled in your location. Look forward to upcoming segments.

Good to see you here tomarkot. Fortunately, things went more smoothly once we arrived!

Oooh! Yay! Love your reports, and love learning about new spots. I'm planning to be in Chur for a quick visit in Nov, so I'll likely take the bus to poke around Flims!

Thanks for writing!

s

Have been waiting for your trip report ... thanks for posting! The flight adventure seems like a nightmare to me. Yuck. Looking forward to your experiences in Graubünden :-)

Hi Adelaidean, Swandav and Ingo - glad to see you all here!

Oh yeah. Like we'd miss one of your reports...!

Chaotic starts to holidays sour my travel mood, almost enough some times to never again desire to travel. Almost. ;)

Looking forward to your impressions of my adopted country!

Flims - Day 2

Snow!

In keeping with our ‘will walk for food’ approach to Swiss travel, we decided to walk from Flims to the village of Trin Mulin. I knew from my research that Hotel Ustria Parlatsch was open for warm meals from 12-2. That was good enough for us.

https://www.parlatsch.ch/

We wound our way through the lower part of town following a series ‘Vias’ – Via Sule, Via Sultan, Via Punt Crap, Via Punt La Reisgo, Via Cava, etc. Many of the buildings we passed were shuttered, but we did run across a few little people making their way to school, most unable to resist stopping to play in the snow.

We eventually found the path that led through the forest to the blue-green waters of the Crestasee, dull and muted in today’s gloom.

https://www.myswitzerland.com/en-us/crestasee-lake.html

Beyond the lake stood the closed Gasthaus Crestasee, looking rather sad and forlorn. When we were here in May 2017 we’d sat on the sunny terrace overlooking that spectacular lake, gobbling ice cream and sorbet.

https://crestasee.com/en/guest-house/

We forged on, crossing a bridge and following the path through a wide meadow to Trin Mulin, where we weaved our way through the village, finding Ustria Parlatsch, open as advertised and lively with locals.

We settled in at a table, Bill choosing the Mittagsmenu; Schweinsgeschnetzeltes an Rahmsauce, Butternudeln und Gemüse (sliced ​​pork with cream sauce, buttered noodles and vegetables) served with a Knackiger Eisbergsalat, ½ liter of water and coffee (23 CHF), all, I’m told, quite tasty.

For me it was all about the Pizokels – in this case Pizzokel an feiner Rahmsauce mit Bergkäse überbacken, verfeinert mit Speckstreifen und Wirsing (Pizzokel in cream sauce with mountain cheese, bacon strips and savoy cabbage), topped with a tiny stag shaped crouton; impossible for me to pronounce, but oh-so-delicious (16.50 CHF). A glass of Sylvaner Riesling each and we were set (69 CHF total, good food, friendly service).

Content and happy, we backtracked to Flims, the snow now falling thick, heavy and wet, not another soul in sight. Knackered from our 8.6 mile trek, we retreated to the apartment to watch the white stuff accumulate.

To be continued…

I hear ya, fourfortravel - sometimes I'm tempted to just throw in the towel.

Let's just say I envy you living in Austria - more on that later.

Flims - Day 3

Snow and sunshine, my favorite combination!

A few years ago fellow Fodorite Ingo had suggested we visit Waltensburg; we’d yet to go, so figured now was the time.

We made the uphill climb to the Flims Dorf bus stop and took three buses (81, 411 and 424) to Waltensburg Vuorz, making changes in Laax and Ilanz, the journey taking 1:15, (13.40 CHF each return, half fare).

The 424 bus left us at the foot of the reason for our visit, the Swiss Reformed Church, home to the Waltensburg Master’s frescoes, considered among the best works of Early Gothic painting in Switzerland. We poked through the church, admired the frescoes, and wandered through the cemetery under a bright blue sky.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f4ff26ddc.jpg
Swiss Reformed Church, Waltensburg

We then walked through the near-deserted village and up towards Andiast, surprised at the number of vehicles headed in the same direction; presumably for pre-season maintenance work at the Brigels-Waltensburg-Andiast ski area.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c210fa6d3c.jpg

We backtracked to Ilanz and changed to bus 411, this time via Sagogn. The drive alone was worth the trip; our driver expertly navigating the freakishly narrow streets, the bus seeming to almost touch the surrounding buildings; tight hairpin turns forcing oncoming traffic to back up and pull to the side of the road (public transport has the right of way in Switzerland). It was entertaining as all get out.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...46266d4bf8.jpg

We got off the bus at Flims-Waldhaus and walked to Hotel Adula, knowing it was open for lunch, but not making it there before the Swiss witching hour – 2pm. We were invited to sit in their lobby lounge and await their cake buffet instead, normally served between 3-4:30 pm, but made available within minutes of our arrival. We shared a huge slice of apricot torte, filling, but not wonderful. Nice place to cool ones heels though (18 CHF with beer and coffee).

https://adula.ch/en/

We then walked back to Flims Dorf, detouring to St Martinschurch, enjoying the last slivers of sunshine and stumbling upon a milk dispenser – 1.40 CHF for two liters of fresh milk. Now I know where to go when the Coop is closed.

It’d been a beautiful day for exploring.

That evening we made the trek back up the hill and down the road to Hotel Vorab for a nice meal at Pizzeria Veneziana (shared Caprese salad, shared pizza, shared 5 dl of Jeninser Pinot Noir – 60 CHF).

https://www.hotelvorab.ch/de/pizzeria-veneziana/

To be continued…

Sounds like a lovely day. Glad you made it to the church ;-)

How disappointing that the Adula (a four star plus hotel!) shut down the kitchen after 2 pm.

Adelaidean - it is indeed - lots of walking tracks, many of which are only accessible in summer.

Ingo - shutting the kitchen at 2 is something we run into it all the time in Switzerland.

Perhaps it's just a small village off season thing, but it happens to us so often that we think of it as a Swiss thing. We try to plan accordingly, but it's not always possible when we're out walking.

We carry snacks in our backpacks in case we get caught out (as we often do), but somehow it's not the same as a steaming plate of Pizokels or Capuns:)

Flims - Day 4

Back in ‘walk for food mode’, our goal today was to walk from Laax to Ladir, arriving at Ustria Casa Crusch in time for lunch (12-2).

We’d visited Ladir (population 113) last Christmas Day, after Bill had become intrigued with the two churches we could see high up on the mountainside across from Ilanz, but all we knew about the restaurant was that it was supposed to be open and that we’d no doubt be hungry when we arrived.

We caught the 8:12 shuttle from Flims Dorf to Laax Bergbahnen (free with guest card) and after some floundering, located the trail to Falera, which led us up through slush, snow and ice. Fearing breakage, I donned my Yak Trax for the first time since we’d arrived.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dd836b9f72.jpg

Once in Falera, we walked through the pretty little village, quickly reminded that getting to trails from villages often involves a climb. The views were tremendous, the peace wonderful, we saw not another soul.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ab6d1d03a3.jpg

Some four hours and 8.5 miles later we arrived in Ladir. We consulted our directions to Ustria Casa Crusch, which, as luck would have it, was at the base of a brutally steep hill. My knees wept.

We approached the deserted-looking restaurant with trepidation, followed by sighs of relief when we found the menu board outside, the door unlocked. We were warmly welcomed, the proprietor surprised to hear that we’d walked all the way from Laax, quickly offering us water and a table overlooking the beautiful Surselva countryside. It was just the two of us at first, later joined by three other guests.

We settled in and pulled out the Ibuprofen. Sitting down never felt so good.

Bill ordered the Capuns mit speck, me the Quark Pizokels mit Gemuse. Both were absolutely divine; worth every single mile, and as it happens, one of our favorite meals of the trip (88 CHF with wine).

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc9269d718.jpg

Note: I’m sad to report that per Ustria Casa Crusch’s website, they’ve since closed and are looking for new owners.

https://casacrusch.ch/

Afterwards, we hauled ourselves to our feet and trudged up that freakishly steep hill to catch the 2 pm bus to Flims Dorf via Ilanz (6 CHF each, half fare). Instead of changing directly to the connecting bus, we spent an hour wandering through Ilanz, shared a disappointing slice of Nusstorte at a bakery, and poked through the huge Migros shopping center that was still under construction during last year’s visit.

We then dragged our beaten and bruised selves back to Flims, Bill availing himself of the apartment’s tub for a long hot soak - something he rarely does (which spoke volumes).

To be continued…

Oh, it is so sad that this fabulous restaurant closed for good :( Happens around here also way too often ...

Remember to have Nusstorte in the Engadine only ;-)

Excellent TR Mel, thanks! I'm heading to Switzerland this summer, different region than your trip, but I love reading about it.

My story will be a lot more boring, more like "Will Walk for the Sake of Walking", but no doubt some fine food and fermented beverages will be involved.

Adelaidean - As with all things, all Pizokels are not created equal. I've had a bad batch here and there (same with Capuns), but fortunately the good outweigh the bad.

Following along and loving it!
Heading to Harz in Germany in spring...I miss meine Schweiz!

Will read trip report for vicarious pizocals!
 

Between work and life, I don’t have time for everything I would enjoy, and reading trip reports is one of the things I usually forego. But a Melnq8 report that covers Graubünden foods? I’m on it!

I had to wait until AFTER I had my own dinner, and then I read and re-read – and read again – the description of the Pizokels at Ustria Parlatsch. Envy!!!

And then (more envy!!!) I read your desciption of the Quark Pizokels at Ustria Casa Crusch. And that it has since closed. :(
Do you write these things to torture me?
(Do, please, keep writing them!)


You need help. Seriously, Adelaidean -- seek help. ;)
Actually, the one time I was fortunate enough to try pizocals, I found them surprisingly light for a pasta.
Oooh, how I would love to keep trying them, time and again, to see if I might find the ones you didn’t like!

Thank you all for the comments and for following along!

Kja - you crack me up. See what you've created? It was you who got us started on Pizokels - we first had them in Mustair a few years back on your recommendation (I can't find that trip report here on Fodor's - seems they've started to delete the older ones).

As for Capuns - that's entirely Ingo's fault. We wanted to try Maluns this year, but didn't get around to them.

True, most of what we ate was definitely winter fare. For our rare summer trips to Switzerland, it's all about walking for ice cream and sorbet!

I am not a big fan of Maluns. On the other hand, Pizokels are one of my favourites. Only good if made with buckwheat.

Hope you tried Salsiz in all variations, and Bündnerfleisch. And cheese!

Please keep it coming ;-)

Having trouble posting on Fodor's today - keep losing things - will try again tomorrow.

Oh yes, I remember our early discussion of pizokels -- and learning only then, AFTER my return, about capuns. :O: I knew to learn about the area from ingo, but hadn't realized that I should ask him about foods. :( I'm glad to say that I had several delightful local sausages and dried meats and cheeses while there. :)

The recent deletion of old posts didn't erase my report on Switzerland, and shouldn't have deleted yours, either. Have you tried finding it using google? I sometimes have better luck going that route.

And OMG, the problems posting here have been ridiculous of late! Do, please, keep trying.

Delighted to be following along Mel.

I do so much enjoy reading about your walking, eating and amazingly meticulous planning that makes it all happen for you.
Now that we are both mostly retired I am getting my DH to read your reports and maybe we can add winter walking to our travels.
Think we south Aussies might need a little more practice in the cold, as we found the -4C in Tirol pretty challenging a few weeks ago!
(It was 46C here in Adelaide at the time...)

Looking forward to reading more adventure and pondering possibilities for future travels.

Hi Adelaidean

You poor things - I hope you managed to stay moderately cool.

We were in Neustift im Stubaital for four days: we were using up a credit at an hotel we had after having to cancel a longer trip last September.
We enjoyed being in a lovely hotel for relaxing but not ideal for getting around without a car.
The snow was deep and we only managed a few short walks; instead we caught up with friends in Innsbruck, and took ourselves on a couple of shorter excursions, including to Seefeld where we had a beautiful pre Christmas holiday some years ago!
We are not yet up to longer snow walks!

I envy Mel and her ability to head off in winter.

Love winter! Just returned from an overnight stay in a small town about 90 minutes west of our home in Colorado. 13F this morning - and the wind! Ferocious! Needless to say we didn't do any walking, but instead soaked in outdoor hot springs. Delicious.

46C!!! That's the kind of heat we suffered through in the Middle East (which was much better air conditioned than Australia, let me tell you). You Australians are tough!

Good to see you here love_travel_Aus. There was a s***load of snow when we were in Seefeld on this trip too.

Flims Day 5 –

Feeling every one of our years, we decided to get the kinks out by well, more walking. And so we set out on the gentle Wald & Wasser (forest and water) Culinary Trail, a prime example of why we enjoy Switzerland so much – the incredibly civilized approach to exercise!

https://www.flims.com/en/food-entert...culinary-trips

We’ve walked this trail on previous visits, our efforts rewarded with nice al fresco lunches and people watching at Restaurant Conn, but we knew this time we were too early in the season; there’d be no food or free entertainment at the end of the trail.

We followed an upper track overlooking the blue-green waters of Caumasee, known as ‘the jewel of Flims’, which under ideal circumstances (unlike today) and with professional skill and equipment (unlike mine) looks something like this:

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b4f210dcb5.jpg
Photo credit: https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/explor...alera/caumasee

We continued walking high above the Rhine Gorge, through the ‘largest contiguous forest of Graubünden’. After passing the closed Restaurant Conn, we continued to the Il Spir viewing platform which overlooks the Ruinaulta (aka the Swiss Grand Canyon), said to be one of the most spectacular landscapes in Graubünden.

https://www.flims.com/wandern-schweiz/rheinschlucht

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41e04b66c8.jpg
Photo credit: https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/explor...atform-il-spir

The views from here never disappoint, even on a gloomy day (although my photos certainly did).
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f80a8e8cff.jpg
Photo credit: https://www.graubuenden.ch/en/explor...atform-il-spir

We returned via a lower trail that led down to the shores of Caumasee, surprised to find the gates open and beckoning, so naturally we felt obliged to enter and investigate.

We then worked our way back up to Flims Waldhaus, alongside and above the closed funicular.

Our growling stomachs led us to Bistro Kaufmannfrauen, a promising venue for lunch, but alas our timing was off again, we missed their Mittagsmenu (11:30-1:30) by mere minutes.

So we tried the Bündner Gerstensuppe (barley soup), hoping for the decadent cream and butter nectar of the gods variety but getting a broth version instead. A bit disappointing, not very filling, and oddly, no bread was offered (two bowls of soup, 5 dl local red wine - 51 CHF, not particularly good value).

https://kaufmannfrauen.ch/

As we dawdled over our wine, we watched the goings on behind the counter; an employee was making some fabulous looking desserts, including Vermicelles, which she was kind enough to explain to us (made from chestnuts, butter, sugar and kirsch, topped with meringues and whipped cream). Now on the ‘must try’ list for next time.

We meandered back through town, investigated the newly opened and rather flash Stenna Center and just generally poked around.

Then it was back to the apartment to try yet another Nusstorte*, do some laundry (with directions in English woo-hoo!) and rest up after our seven mile day.

*About that Nusstorte – so far this trip we’d tried three different kinds and were disappointed – too dry, not enough walnuts - note to self – the bakery in Scuol next to the Coop has the best to date; and a dollop of fresh whipped cream never goes amiss.

To be continued…

Have a bite for me Adelaidean! I like it best heated and with a large dollop of fresh whipped cream. Interestingly enough, it's usually served room temp in Swiss restaurants (IME anyway).

If there's one thing I learned living in Australia it's that cake must have cream:)

Flims Day 6 –

Spurred on by the promise of sunshine and Bill’s fascination with Pinut, we hurried up to Flims Dorf to catch the 10 am shuttle to Fidaz (free with guest card), trading a 30 minute steep climb for a five minute bus journey.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...827dddf0d6.jpg
Flims

The Pinut via Ferrata ‘trek’ is understandably inaccessible during the winter (thank goddess), but we thought we’d at least try to get to Bargas, just to satisfy Bill’s curiosity.

https://www.flims.com/en/hiking/pinut-via-ferrata

During the season, one can take a shuttle bus from Fidaz to Bargas and Pinut. Off season, its hoof it or nothing. So hoof it we did.

Once in Fidaz we walked 20 minutes up to the start of the trail to Bargas, hoping to get above the clouds, but instead, walking right into them. It was misty and wet, the views completely obscured. We climbed steadily uphill, me grumbling about the steep snow-covered trail. We eventually bailed; choosing to follow the narrow road instead (so narrow that it was hard to envision even a small bus fitting, and had one come along, we might have had to jump off the side!)

As we reached the shuttered Berghaus we got a brief glimpse of what all the fuss was about – wow! What a lovely spot.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6f8a6f400.jpg
Bargas

Bargas is at the doorstop of the Tectonic Arena Sardona, A UNESCO World Heritage Site. We were there for the exercise and the views, but evidently, this “little-known border area of cantons St. Gallen, Glarus and Graubunden is the best place in the world to observe the processes of mountain formation”, the Glarus Thrust and other geologic wonders (the details make my eyes glaze, but it’s certainly pretty up there).

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1179

The skies cleared a bit as we walked back down to Fidaz, giving us some views over the valley below. We arrived at the bus stop seconds before the bus did, (hourly this time of year), saving us the knee crunching descent to Flims.

Flims was awash in sunshine and suddenly seemed alive – a small market was underway in front of the Information Office, champagne was flowing at Stenna’s Grand Opening, people were out and about, some just wandering, others purposely toting skis (opening day for one ski lift).

We randomly chose Hotel Bellevue for lunch, surprised to find they had a Mittagskarte on a Saturday (19 CHF each). The Dubai Flavours Menusalat was interesting, the Kartoffelcremesuppe good, the Flammkuchen with sour cream, red onions, Chorizo and Gruyère fantastic – (lunch special for both, lovely Sylvaner Riesling – 63.50 CHF and stuffed to the gills).

Fully aware that shops would be closed the following day (Sunday) and that we’d need milk for our first morning in Zuoz, we picked up a carton of UHT and a few train snacks.

We eventually tore ourselves away from the brilliant sunshine, retreating to the apartment to cool our heels, organize our luggage and tidy up for the next morning’s departure.

More photos here:

Note about that photo link - hovering over the photo brings up the arrows, clicking on the right arrow will scroll through the correct photos.

Clicking the actual photo brings up photos from New Zealand! Not sure what that's about, but I've had this same problem here on Fodor's before.

And those freaking boxes instead of apostrophes - not sure what that's about either.