HC:'

Welcome Home!

Great report.

So glad youhad a good time; Croatia is special isn't it.

you are so right about Pile vs Ploce. We were so glad we stayed on the Ploce side.

Continue, continue.....

and you are doing a great job. you should always write a trip report when you come home, your style is easy to read and is enjoyable.

Carry on...

Happy -- Bless you! I won't tell anybody else the ending! LOL. We want to have a car and browse while we're on Hvar (for a week) but lately we've been diddling back and forth over it because, truth to tell, I am the driver (I adore DH, but he really s---- at driving) and at age 68 I am just a tad less intrepid than I used to be. Which is to say that I am no longer a lunatic at the wheel, just a regular person. So I am a little uncertain yet about what we will do. I guess we don't even have to go to that part of the island, since we're planning on taking a catamaran beyween Hvar & Split, and that takes us directly to Hvar town. Any thoughts?

Hello HappyCheesehead! I'm very much enjoying your report. I know it's intimidating writing your first with so many witty writers on this board - it's great! I know very little about Croatia and, honestly, have never considered a vacation there. Your descriptions paint quite a picture!

Hi Tripgirl - thanks for reading! I learned so much for this trip from your Croatian and Amalfi Coast reports!

Dorkforcemom ( and by the way, I can't even write that without giggling, I think it is a great Fodors name and would LOVE to know the story behind it) as I recall you like to travel to the little more off the beaten path places (like Central and Eastern Europe) so I think you would really like Croatia. Seems right up your alley.

Ckwald, well, if you won't have a car to bring over (it is a lot cheaper that way, and you have way more options for the cat) I would maybe just rent a car for a day or so. I really wouldn't see any need for you to go all the way to the eastern end of the island, there is not much down there, it was just the fastest way to get to Hvar from Dubrovnik.

BUT, we really loved the drive we took along the southern edge of the island and with 7 days you could make way more of a day of it than we did. You go throught the tunnel at Pitve, easy - the light is working - and drive down to Zavala and then to the end of the road at Sveta Nedjelja and back. Trust me, you will get a taste of the hair pin turns and some of the drop offs, but nothing too horrible. I really wished we had had more time when we made that trip. Lucky YOU!

Report, continued.....

Today is Wednesday, September 6th and it is our day to visit Montenegro. After a 3 coffee breakfast on the terrace, we head on out.

Pre-trip, I was weighing the DIY version of Montenegro vs the Atlas Montenegro Blue Tour. The DYI won out since A. we already had a car and B. the Blue tour did not operate on a convenient day for us and C. we like to have our own timetable. D. I am kind of cheap.

Downside to DIY – hubby cannot enjoy the scenery quite as much as I did and we did not get all the interesting info regarding what we were seeing. We tried to find info on Montenegro at our local chain bookstore, but found nothing there. We did some brief internet searches for info but did not find what we were looking for besides some Wikipedia entries. We decided to just enjoy at face value what we were going to see.

Drive to Montenegro was easy-peasy and the wait at the border about 30 minutes. I was surprised by the number of full busses waiting in line the other direction to go into Croatia.

Alrighty then, here we are in Montengro. Here is a town, here is some pretty water. We must be at the bay of Kotor, so we get out of the car at Herceg-Novi. There are signs to an old town and a fortress so we park and off we go. Now I might mention at this point that my husband gets warm and sweats easily – he says he is full of the juices of life- and it is very warm day. We just start meandering around, no plan in mind, and we see some signs for what might be waterfront, and beachy looking folks heading that way. We go down lots of steps and never really end up anywhere, but then look – signs to the fortress again and it is says it is a scenic overlook too! Yippee! Now, the rest of you are probably already way ahead of me on this, but sea level to scenic overlook is code for steps, lots of steps. We start climbing through some narrow steps and passages, we are twisting and turning around and there is hardly anyone around us anywhere. We are passing behind stone houses and walled back yards, quite interesting in an everyday life way. At times we are traipsing up steps cut from the rock and the rock forms the wall beside us. We pass some buildings with collapsed roofs and I think they are abandoned homes. I want one, the views from some of them are just stunning. How is it possible no one has fixed them up?

Finally – the fortress. DH has been a pretty good sport but his shirt is just wet and I have seen him glance back at me (dawdling as usual) and bite his tongue and not say anything. My Hero!

The fortress has a beautiful view of the town and water and a breeze is blowing up here, nice. There are no signs, or ticket area and we just walk in. It is basically a ruin, but must be used for concerts as there is a stage of sorts and an amphitheater with wooden benches. We are the only ones up there, except a couple sitting on a bench in the shade. DH and are wandering around separate parts of the fortress and I see the man walk up to DH asking if he speaks English. Oh oh. DH is not addicted to Fodors to know about all the scams that are out there – have I warned him not to talk to strangers??? The man tries to get him to pay an entrance fee for the fortress , and DH is willing, (better to lose a few euro than cause an international incident), but doesn’t have anything smaller than a 20 euro, which the man says he has no change for and just waves DH away. Anyone else think that whole exchange was bizarre?

We leave the fortress and are walking around some of the old town streets that are a little more lively with shops, restaurants, cafes, churches. I see that many of the signs are in Cyrillic. Oh COOL! A church we stop in is very small and Eastern Mediterranean looking. There is incense burning and music playing inside, taper candles are flickering in what appears to be a built in book case, they are stuck in sand, but the sand is covered in a few inches of water (good idea!), and there are bottles of wine and vegetable oil on the alter. The alter fills one wall of the room and is white stone with inlaid paintings, and mosaics and there are gold filigree gates in front of what might be more alters. We think it might have been Greek Orthodox?

We decide it is time to move on and DH thinks it would be a good idea to at least have a map. We stop at a travel agency and she is able to provide a nice little map on heavy stock (2 e) of the coastline down to Ulcinj and including the Bay of Kotor, which we are apparently no where near.

It was hard for me to really put my finger on Herceg Novi, parts were busy with high rise apartments and a bit run down, (to my Midwest American eyes) and yet there was this charming, albeit small, core that seemed a little more eastern that I have ever been. There is an awful lot of coastline that seems destined for outsiders with big bucks to come in and take over. I can see it happening in the not so distant future.

Armed with our map we drive up the coast of the Tivatski Zal along the local roads. And I do mean local. We are on the one lane road that runs right along the water. On our right are the pebbly beaches and little bathing platforms and structures that pass for beaches, on our left are the homes and small villas/apartments where the people stay, and a few waterside restaurants. Clearly this is a resorty area, but very low key. Families are enjoying the day everywhere, swimming, fishing, napping under umbrellas or the pines here and there.

We finally hit the mouth of the bay and I just have to say it. OMG. OMG. I wrote in my journal that no matter how many pictures I took they would never be able to accurately express the beauty around me, so how can I possibly describe it with words to you?

The green and grey mountains just drop straight down into the stunningly blue waters. Little villages hug the shore at points, but so much of it is undeveloped. It must be protected??? I cannot believe the low population density in a place this beautiful. There are not even very many cars out here. There would be condo’s 10 deep in the US.

We drive along, but had to stop so many times for our photo opps that the driver did not feel he was missing out on anything. In Perast, a very small, very charming village we see another stone fixer upper with no roof. I want it. I will move here. There are a couple of nice looking restaurants and churches (including the one out on the island which we did not ride out to but should have – doh!) but not much else. A jet ski flies by (we find the source later) but it just makes us realize that it is the only one we have seen all day and how peaceful the bay is at almost all other times.

We stop at a tiny stand for an ice cream bar. It is now 32 degrees. Each time we get back in the Skoda it feels great to be back in the A/C.

We make our way to Kotor, a walled town like Dubrovnik in many ways, except the crowds. Very definitely worth a few hours to walk around, if not an over night stay. The inside of the town is stone everywhere, and protective walls run straight up the mountains (I spared DH) and we enjoyed looking around very much. It was here we discovered the source of the jet ski, There was a yacht with its hatch open and the run-about boat and a jet ski were nestled in there. We saw some gorgeous boats (visiting boats we think) lined up along the water here and DH was just drooling. It did make us realize however that for all the water there was, the boat population was also very low, not just here, but all over. There would be some little rowboats, but not the type of recreational boats we are used to seeing near water. I suspect that the annual wages around here do not really support that sort of lifestyle for the local folks.

We continue the drive, the road still runs at the very waters edge, and we take the ferry across the mouth of the bay and head back to the border. No border wait at all on the way back.
We have not eaten, besides a few car snacks and that ice cream bar so we are getting pretty hungry. We pass by a sign for the Konavoski Dvori and I recall hearing good things about it, so we decide to make a stop for dinner. We see a very small family run restaurant with about 5 tables set up on wooden planks over the river, next to and under a bridge. So we stop and get one of the 5 tables. What atmosphere, and it was too cute. We sit next to 2 couples from Linz, Austria and have fun sign language and garbled German/English conversation. DH’s mixed grill was mighty tasty and I had pork chops, good, but not as good. They brought complimentary shots of some sort of Croatian white lightning out at the end of the meal. DH took the bullet for me and had my share, what a guy, but his eyes did water a bit, LOL. It was only upon leaving we discovered we were NOT at the Konavoski Dvori at all, so we kept driving down the road to see what the real place looked like. It was a lot bigger, tins of empty tables (it was dark by now) and there were busses in the parking lot, so it also caters to the tour group crowd. We watched a little of the folk dancing show that was being staged and that looked fun. We ended up being quite happy with our little family joint down the road, and suspect you wouldn’t go wrong chosing either place.

Back home, you guessed it, a couple of hours out on the balcony. The moon is full and not a cloud in the sky. I can’t stand it. LUCKY us!

More to follow!

HC -- I'm SO enjoying THIS report! We didn't go to Montenegro or Kotor even tho they were on the list. The owner of our Sobe offered to drive us on a day trip but we were being cheap (too cheap). Now I have yet another reason to go back to Croatia! p.s. I would love to see some of those pics if you get a chance. (am I being greedy?)

Happy-- yes, I'm thinking we'll be renting a car on Hvar for a few days just to go at our leisure, and bypass the White Knuckle D o' D. Loved your Montenegro portion too . . . that's the only trip out of Dubrovnik we know for sure we'll do, but we plan to do it with a guide driving. Thanks for taking the time out to answer me . . . now no more distractions from me, so you can get back to your next chapter! :)))

HappyCheesehead - you had to bring up the the almost running out of gas incident didn't you? I almost came back from Croatia a single woman because of that! :)

Really enjoying your report and the Montenegro portion especially. Before we left I was trying to decide whether or not to do the bus tour and as soon as I told George it was 10 hours, he flat out refused. We should have gotten our car a day earlier and drove down like you did. I thought we'd miss out on the background and maybe it wouldn't be as impressive but it sounds like you guys had a great time. I have another reason to go back!

Jana

Happycheesehead,
I new you would be great at this. I look forward to the next page. We can't wait to see your pictures,YES all of them!

Laura

I'm really enjoying your report on Croatia Happy!! Thanks so much for writing it. I just love to read how much everyone loves Croatia! You give us new ideas for return trips.

I just HAVE to share my good news! Our newest grandchild was born very early this a.m. She came 3 weeks early and ended up being a surprise breech baby, so a quick emergency c-section was in order, but mother (our daughter)and baby daughter, her first child, are doing wonderfully!! We're off to Florida for a bit to welcome her into the world.

Keep writing, I'll catch up with your report when we return!

Images2 - what joyful news! So glad that your daughter and granddaughter are fine and you get to enjoy your newest addition earlier! Bonus time!

Hi Callalilli -I would love to send some Montenegro pictures your way - I will do it tonight. You will want to go back!

CK - Have a ball on your vacation - the countdown is in hours now - and let us know what you think.

Jana - I just had to tease you a little bit, although I KNOW it was not funny at the time. Isn't it crazy what makes the best travel story??

And you, Miss ABJS - you don't know what you are getting yourself into!!! Don't forget we have 1200 pictures from April in France! I can just see the glazed look that will be in your eyes at New Years - and it WON"T be from the wine :)

Can't wait to see what you think of Venice - what a magical spot to spend time with your sweetie - ALONE!

Happycheesehead! Welcome back!! I just now had time to read this, and I'm only halfway through! A lot has been going on....mainly we just found out we are relocating to Charlotte, NC 2 weeks before our trip to Croatia (and only 2.5 weeks from now!) so I've hardly had time to think about it! Luckily the company is great and offered to fly DH and I back here to St. Louis to catch our flights.

I am loving your report, and I can't wait to read the rest. Dubrovnik and Croatia sounds so lovely. Not sure if the weather is going to be quite as pleasing in November, but I'm certain we will have a great time anyhow!

Tracy

Tracy - OMG - I cannot imagine how crazy you must be feeling! Have you ever lived there or been there? I love NC and although I have never been to Charlotte I think it comes up in lots of "best of" lists.

At least you have had your whole trip planned for months (a Fodorite Tendency, LOL) so you can concentrate on other things.

Best wishes to you and your DH in your new place/life, and good luck to the one who has to find the new job!

By the way - it is 250 steps from the Ploce Gate to "our" front door!

Happycheesehead, thank you for the well wishes!

Nope, I have never been! I have never even been to North Carolina, and my husband was only in Charlotte long enough to do the interview so he knows virtually nothing of the area either. I have heard great things about it though, so hopefully we will love it. We make our first visit this weekend!

My co-worker thought it was hilarious that here I am going to Croatia (she doesn't get it, but I guess most don't!) and I've never been to Charlotte!

And your right...my trip has been planned for months! The only thing I have left to do is book our hotel in Slovenia. We are staying in Novo Mesto, a town that appears to be halfway between Ljubljana and Zagreb. They don't book reservations more than a month in advance so I will book in a few weeks. Other than that I'm just impatiently waiting!

The apartment sounds just gorgeous. 250 stairs...hmmm...well, at least I can burn off some vacation food calories!

Tracy

Thursday dawns and as has become my custom I run out to the balcony in my p.j.s to see which cruise ships have appeared in the night. They park between Lokrum, ( the island just off the shore) and Dubrovnik and the tenders ferry the passengers in. There was at least one every day. Yesterday it was the QE 2 and day before we saw a beautiful ship with 5 masts that said it was the Club Med 2. As far as I know, this side of town is over - flow parking for the cruise ships. Ljubica told us that a few years ago two cruise ships were out there in a bad storm and one almost hit the Hotel Villa Argentina. They also broke the water line s that runs under the bay to Lokrum and no one could go out there all summer as there was no way to fight fires if necessary. I think the big gun cruise ships park over on the north side of town. We saw a MASSIVE cruise ship there on our way to Hvar , it truely looked like a floating skyscraper!



It is laundry day today as Ljubica offered to let us use her washer. It was sweet of her, but she had to fly to Zagreb today for a Dr consultation for a torn ACL and she did not tell us how to use it before she left. Well, DH and I can surely figure this sucker out and we stick all our whites in the machine. Not a chance – we have no idea what to push or pull or which of these laundry products to put where. What to do? I went downstairs to find the parents (who speak no English) and via pantomime the grandma comes up with me to set the machine. She was just a doll and even though we had no common language we managed to communicate pretty well. When it was time to put in the second load Ljubica’s cute young hubby, Nino, was home and admitted he did not know how it works either, he has never used it!



As soon as our loads were out of the washer and drying on the clothes rack that Nino brought up for us (I felt so local!) we headed off to see the Rectors Palace in Dubrovnik. Here is where I admit we never even did half the cultural things we planned to in Dubrovnik, no museums, no monesteries, I guess we will have to go back! We had the audio guide and it did a fair job but it was really warm there, there were WAYYYY too many tour groups (Dubrovnik was just SWARMING with them today – a great argument for day trips away from the walled city) and we had our minds on swimming.



We go out to the old port and hop on a ferry boat bound for Lokrum. They run out and back all until early evening and there is a small desk set up on the docks to buy the tix. It was a great choice for us that day. We had an island map so we walked the paths for a while. It was so much cooler and quieter out there than the city. There was an old monestery and olive groves and it had that great smell again. There are peacocks there too, begging treats fromthe tourists. We went around to the side of the island that was opposite the mainland and found ourselves a comfy spot on the rocks. OK, comfy is relative. These were big flat rocks and they felt like rocks. We did have the beach towels that Ljubica loaned to us and we spread them out to have a place to sit, but we actually spent most of our time in the water , it just felt so wonderful.



Note: – since we had no safe in the apartment we had our passports, CC, money etc here with us in our beach bag , obviously my super secret neck pouch (that can be seen in each of my pictures, LOL) can't go in the water with me. The first place we sat down we saw a young woman ostensibly sunbathing by herself, but to us it looked like she was scoping us and others out of the corners of her eyes and trying to hide it. We also thought she was making eye contact with other people elsewhere on the rocks – her cohorts in crime or were we being paranoid? We took no chance and moved down the rocks to be away from her.



We had planned on taking turns in the water but neither of us wanted to sit there and watch the other have a nice swim , so we put our bag pretty close to the water ladder and climbed in. My DH is a rather poor swimmer and is generally not that comfortable in the water but he was hot and was really glad to go in. The water was so smooth, the only ripples coming when a boat passed by farther out. The bottom was also rocks, of course, but we had our water shoes so it is all good and we avoid the few sea urchins we see. Now here is the wild part. DH has never actually swum in salt water. He normally sinks like a rock in our Midwest lake freshwater, but here he floated like a bobber. He loved it. We are going to Hawaii in April and now he wants to try the snorkeling there if the water is calm. Yippee!



We started to chat with the group sitting next to us, a travel group of age 20- something friends taking a vacation together . The ringleader was Eric - another Cheesehead and Badger Fan - Small world!



We head in about 6 pm and go back to our beloved balcony about 7 for a sandwich supper. You will notice I do not have a lot of restaurant reports here. I always intend on going out to fabulous meals nightly, but when it comes down to it I am happy with something simple and convenient. It has been a low key but fun day. The moon is supposed to be full tonight but rises with a weird piece missing, so it might have been a little eclipse ? So sad that it was our last night here, but Hvar beckons so life is not all that bad!

Happy: Great report. I was one of those touting the Konavoski Dvori....although I've only been there in spring and fall...summer, as you have seen, can be brutally hot and mobbed in that part of the former Yugoslavia.

The KD is a wonderful place for lunch or dinner, never that crowded off season, and the rushing waters make for a delightful ambience. Maybe next time.
Waiting for your pix!

Stu T.