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This is indeed a wonderful trip report. Now I can't wait to go back to Italy.
Thanks, Tom. Judy |
I really love this trip report.
Please... More.. |
Ah, that wacky Lorenzo the Magnificent!
Your report is terrific--I'm eager for more! |
Okay -- I leave for a week in Paris [in the other wine country] on Monday and I NEED this to be finished by then :D
Otherwise I will be reduced to finding an internet cafe when I should be drinking my own wine! So please ... pretty plleeeeeeasssssee??? |
<b> DAY EIGHT – THE BEST FIVE HILL TOWNS MOST PEOPLE NEVER HEARD OF OR VISITED </b>
Although many Fodorites know the towns we were going to visit this day, I feel it is safe to say that most people who visit Italy have never been to any of these five. We filled up on the Palazzo del Capitano breakfast (did I tell you much we loved this hotel) because we had a big day of driving ahead of us. In planning our Italy trip, I compiled reams of information on various towns we could visit in Tuscany and Umbria. Today would be the day we would travel to five hill towns that don’t receive much coverage in the guidebooks. Even with the car incident, Kim had decided that I should start Tom’s Tuscan Tours, because of the details I had in my pre-planning, which included information on restaurants, history, shopping and sites to see in all the towns we had been to and were about to go. He thought I should take groups on these adventures. It might be fun, but a group with a negative attitude could make that kind of job pretty miserable. Tom’s Tuscan Tours on this day started from St. Quirico and wound past Rocca d’Orcia until we were on the Strada dei Vin. Heading for our first hill town of the day, Arcidosso. This quaint hill town (and really, aren't they all) in the Monte Amiata area (a region known for its mystics and seers throughout history) was home of the mystical 19th century prophet, Davide Lazzaretti, who, in a Jim Jones moment, proclaimed “he would be King and would reign over a kingdom of justice in the final age of the world.” Unfortunately for him, the carabineiri (Federal troops) shot him to death before he could reach that lofty goal. We parked and walked through the ancient part of town until we reached the Castello Aldobrandesco, which dates back to the 12th century. For one euro apiece we could climb the multitude of steps to the top. Since we had never met a set of stairs we couldn’t climb, up we went. The view was great, and, afterward, we walked over to the Madonna Incoronata, supposedly a neat church to visit. Since it was closed, we never got to find that out. Arcidosso is also host to a large Buddhist community, but this was no time for meditation. We had more hill towns to explore on Tom’s Tuscan Tours. Our next village was about an hour’s drive away. There was more incredible scenery along the route, and finally, there in the distance, lay our next stop, Roccalbegna. I don’t know how many of you are Harry Chapin fans, but he had a song called “The Rock,” which told the story of a rock (hence the name) which hung precariously over a town. Well, Roccalbegna has just such a huge rock that dominates the town. Roccalbegnans have a saying, "Se il sasso scrocca, addio la Rocca." Translated it means, "If the rock crumbles, goodbye to the village (and I assumed, any California tourists in the general vicinity)." Tracy was giving me the “evil eye” when I said we were going to climb to the top of the rocca on the rock. I told her that Tom’s Tuscan Tours does not back down when it comes to climbing, so off we went. For anyone who wants to do this, it’s simple. Starting at Piazza IV Novembre, go to Salito Sassa (to the front of you and on the right). Turn left at Salito Sassa (look for the yellow sign); go past the Bar-Tabacchi (unless you need a drink or a smoke) on your left, meander along a winding lane and, in about ten minutes, you are at the town fortress. The climb up to the top of the Rocca once you get there is steep, and we almost had our first casualty of the trip (well, first human casualty. As Tracy neared the top, there was a snap. Unfortunately, it was not a tree branch, but Tracy’s ankle. Thankfully, the injury did not turn out to be serious, but I started getting “the look” a little more from this time on. The views of the countryside were fantastic, but the view down on the grid-like streets and red roofs are what struck us most (at some time in the near future, I will put this report on my blog site with pictures and you can see what I mean). We made it down with no further incident. If you come to Roccalbegna in November, you could become a part of the famed Focarazza Festival, which commemorates the martyrdom of the saint for which the town is named. The Focarazza is a fire festival held in Santa Caterina di Roccalbegna. The ceremony goes something like this: An oak trunk, called a Stollo, with garlands of ivy, is raised. The next day the Stollo is the object of a contest among all the districts of Roccalbegna. The team that catches the Stollo burns it and spreads its ashes to ensure good harvest. I don’t know exactly how this contest is staged, but needless to say, the fire departments of Tuscany are on high alert that day. Since Roccalbegna is off the beaten path, we saw no tourists. I went to the nearby TI to get directions to our next stop, and it was obvious he had seen no tourists for a while, either. This guy was really nice, and I think he would have chatted with me all day. He gave me maps of the winemaking areas nearby, a book about the area, and everyone in the office thought it was cool we were from California. “We don’t get many people from California, “ he said. “How did you find us?” As usual, I had no good answer, but it was fun to talk to him and the others in the office. The rest of my group had sat patiently wondering (hoping) I’d been abducted. I said I had directions, and we promptly drove three kilometers in the wrong direction (Tracy is right…I am not a good listener). My miscue turned out great for us (as driving miscues often do), because driving back toward Roccalbegna provided a sensational photographic opportunity. Our next stop on this day was Sovana, located on the Pitigliano, Sorano, Sovana "Sunken Etruscan Road", which, of course, gives away the names of our final two hill towns. Some people believed these roads were sunken as a defensive measure so people could move unseen from town to town (sort of like when Alan Keyes moved from Gaithersburg, Maryland, to Chicago to try and win an election). Unlike Keyes, this worked for these citizens. Others think that the roads were constructed to help mooooove livestock, which Tracy thought was udderly ridiculous. In any event, since I had deprived my tour group from food, we all stopped for a healthy, late lunch of gelato and gelato crepes (part of our Five A Day helpings of gelato). By now, our cholesterols counts were all nearing 1,000, so an extra helping couldn’t hurt. Sovana was a nice town, but the next two towns blew us away. The drive into Sorano, with the road cur into the tufa, is something to behold. We parked a little outside the town and took photos of the town carved into the rock, and of the road below. It kind of reminded of us of the Cinque Terre sans the Ligurian Sea. What could top this, we thought? Well, about nine kilometers or so away is Pitigliano, a town that even has more spectacular views of it from many vantage points. Thank God for digital because Kim and I spent 20 minutes just shooting it from any angle we could. It was after 4 pm, and all our bodies got the same craving at the same time. Vino, baby! Fortunately Pitigliano has wine caves at every turn selling local vino, olive oil and packages of ribollito. We bought some local wine at ridiculously cheap prices and soup mix, and soon we were headed back to Spello. Although we made a wrong turn somewhere, navigator Tracy took things in her own hand, and soon we saw Radicofani on the right, so we knew we were headed home. It had been a long satisfying day exploring these five “undiscovered” gems, so we were all pretty hungry, and the hotel’s restaurant, Trattoria Al Vecchio Forno beckoned us. It has two rooms on two floors and is absolutely charming, not to mention serves good food. Kim’s pesto pasta was deemed best dish of the night while Tracy renewed her three week love affair with everything arugula, this time in a salad with pecorino and walnuts. There is another post going on right now that had someone saying it was basically crazy to drive in Europe. Today’s journey proved just how inaccurate and plain ignorant that comment happens to be. Had we not had a car, we would not have been able to visit any of these places. This day was our most scenic driving day of the entire trip, and exceeded even my most detailed pre-planning preparation expectations. The signage was great. The directions the gentleman in Roccalbegna gave us were perfect, even though I started out in the wrong direction. And the memories of the day will last a lifetime. I can’t repeat my mantra enough. Enjoy the Journey! Attitude is Everything! <b> NEXT: IT’S BRUNELLO TIME, ABBEY LANE AND FINAL COMMENTS ON OUR FAVORITE HOTEL…EVER! </b> ((H)) |
I bought an anniversary card which sends best wishes and may you never do anything that causes "the look". My DH accuses me of the look-does Tracy raise her eyebrow when she does it?
Great report! |
Oh, it all sounds so beautiful!
Tom, you do realize, don't you, that by describing these undiscovered hilltowns so eloquently here on Fodors they could become the next "hot spots?" I think you're only a trip report or two away from all of us following in lockstep behind you, a la Rick Steves! :D |
Tom, we've been to the last three towns you visited, but not the first two, so they are going on the list for future trips! When we were in Sovana about 5 years ago, it seemed to be trying to remake itself from a ghost town into an artist colony, although they hadn't attracted much in the way of talent that impressed us. Did you see any evidence of that?
Don't you agree that the views of Pitigliano are much better outside the town than inside? We were kind of disappointed once we actually got inside but it does have wonderful photo-ops as you approach. Another town in that area that we enjoyed exploring was Montemerano. Thanks for a great report. |
Joselyn, I was just thinking the same thing! :D
Tom, you have me drooling on the keyboard! Breathtaking... I have yet to cross the pond, but Italy is first on my list... unbelievable reporting. Keep on! ((Y)) |
This is so entertaining! However, my recently stated affections for you, maitaitom, are (just barely) taking second place to my affections for your wife! All things arugula! Me, too. Especially loved it on pizza in Rome. Oh how I love that bitter green taste...brought home seeds to plant in the spring.
More, please! |
Hi Tom!
Your trip sounds just great and your sense of humor a hoot! Too bad we didn't get to meet for a glass of vino! For me, Palazzo Bocci in Spello was the best hotel of the trip and I agree completely with you on the mouthwatering filet w/ balsamic sauce in Il Molino. Good for you choosing to leave La Cantina for Il Molino. the dinner I had there wasn't nearly as good as Il Molino. I got a kick out of the "Bucket of Bolts" too. The running start loading method especially! Please continue! I can't wait to hear more..... |
No problem Jocelyn, I'll be happy to lead the tour, but I don't have to get that goofy Rick Steves' haircut do I?
donco, Tracy has that Spock raised eyebrow thing going when she gives me "the look." I try to mimic it, but I just look like a fool. nonnafelice, Sovana was still very uncrowded and agree that Pitigliano is better as a view town, although I enjoyed the wine cave. makai1, you'll make it over the pond and have a wonderful time. annabelle2, I should have know the arugula would bring you two together. Thanks for all the fun comments. ((H)) |
"Your trip sounds just great and your sense of humor a hoot! Too bad we didn't get to meet for a glass of vino!:
Dayle, it would have been fun. Loved both the Palazzos; Bocci and del Capitano. Glad you had a great time. Next time I'll buy the first round. ((H)) |
"I can’t repeat my mantra enough. Enjoy the Journey! Attitude is Everything"!
Well said, Tom! I am loving this trip report and am taking lots of notes. By the way, if you go for the Rick Steves haircut, remember the look would not be complete without the blue short sleeved shirt and tan pants! :) Thanks for taking the time to write about your travels. Can't wait for the pictures. Johanna |
Wow, what a way to start the morning, by reading your report. I'm glued to every word.
I feel like an ignoramus - don't think I've tasted Pecorino cheese. Will have to pick some up today at the market. And what are gelato crepes? |
Tom,
This is perhaps my favorite report of the year - and that is saying something because there have been some great ones this year! I am so enjoying your writing style - I keep hoping there's more. Thank goodness it was a 22 day journey! Thanks so much and please keep going! Sally |
This will give us something to talk about at our GTG this Saturday. Hurry up and post about the Brunello to put us in the spirit. ((a))
Sally, what type of toga are you wearing on Saturday -- Oh, Oops, sorry, that's for another GTG. :D ((b)) |
I am so loving this report! I've never heard of four of the towns you visited, but I have heard of Pitigliano and its definitely on my list of "must visit" places! I'm printing off this thread because, as you may recall (since you were so gracious enough to respond) I posted a few days ago about Umbria and if I needed to spend the week in one place or not. I'm on a hunt for great hill towns to visit, and I'm sure the ones you visited won't dissapoint.
Thanks again for such a pleasurable report! Tracy |
<b> DAY NINE - IT’S BRUNELLO TIME, ABBEY LANE AND FINAL COMMENTS ON OUR FAVORITE HOTEL…EVER! </b>
Today’s installment will be a short one. After yesterday’s big drive, I promised an easy day. After breakfast, we made the short drive to Montalcino, the home of Brunello; Italy’s “Big Red” vino. It had been hours since I had made a driving error, so I thought I’d regale the passengers with another one. Trying to find the correct street to the Fortezza, I somehow found a dirt road with a very steep downgrade. Fortunately, I was able to find a spot to turnaround before the car plummeted off the cliff. After parking, we walked through town, which was having a market day. We all had varying opinions of market days. Kim and Mary thought they were kind of neat, while Tracy and I thought it was more like a bad flea market. But we had vino on our mind. We got to the Fortezza. Tracy and I climbed to the top and walked around the ramparts, taking a bunch of pictures. Afterward, it was time to spend our life savings on Brunello. Actually, Kim and I each did a 9-euro tasting of Brunellos, and I bought one for about 60 bucks. After buying some provisions at the local market, we headed to Abbey Sant ‘Antimo, located a few kilometers away. We drove down the Abbey lane to the parking lot. We had hoped to have a picnic while listening to Gregorian chants, but unfortunately our Brunello tasting put us at the abbey only minutes after the monks had finished their chanting. It would be two hours until they would chant again, so we paid a visit to the abbey, which, after seeing so many opulent churches, was quite beautiful in a simpler sort of way. In the early afternoon, we went back to St. Quirico and stopped in the Collegiata St. Quirico. If I have my saints correct, St Quirico was a third century martyr killed at the age of five by the Romans because he declared himself a Christian. We also took a look at the Horti Leonini, which is a 16th century garden comprised mostly of box hedges. As usual, I was having trouble finding beautiful gardens for Tracy, a recurrent theme in our European adventures. Both Kim and I went to an Internet café to look and see if we had any important work messages. Tracy just wanted to know if anyone had visited our cats at The Cat Hotel in Burbank. The cats were doing fine, only our Tabby, Cupid, was pouting because I didn’t spend the extra dollars to put him in a cage with the television that showed 24 hours of Animal Planet. After wading through more than 500 e-mails, mostly telling me where I could buy cheap Viagra and Xanax, and seeing that the San Diego Padres were still amazingly in first place, we went back to the hotel and, well I’ll leave that to your imagination. About the Palazzo del Capitano. This hotel was superb. The people who worked the front desk were extremely friendly and helpful in giving us directions or anything else we needed. Both rooms were spectacular (ours was 150 euros a night; Kim and Mary’s 130 euros a night). I would book now, because I guarantee within the next couple of years, those rates will go up. The owners were also very nice. That evening, the four of us sat with another couple from the Bay Area in the garden drinking Prosecco and wine, and munching on some of our provisions. The garden is another aspect of the hotel that stands out. It’s huge and beautiful. When my pictures are on my blog, you will just have to take a look. As stated earlier, I can’t recommend this hotel enough. This was my 13th visit to Europe, and for value, cleanliness, beauty and service, it was our best hotel experience we have had. St. Quirico d"Orcia is also a very central base to see much of the area and is much less touristy and crowded than a Pienza, Montalcino or Montepulciano (which we visited in 2001). The corner restaurant/bar on the "main" drag was filled one night with locals watching a soccer match and playing cards. Back to food and drinking. Even after wine and cheese, we were hungry (there is something weird about Italy in that no matter how much you eat, you just have to eat more…there must be something in the Prosecco). We dined again at the hotel restaurant, the aforementioned Trattoria Al Vecchio Forno. I had the big appetite on this night, devouring a meal of prosciutto y meloné, ravioli with pecorino sauce, baked pecorino with arugula and, for good measure, topping it off with some Biscotti dipped in Vin Santo. Back at the hotel, we had after-dinner drinks in the breakfast room area of the hotel, which also has a cozy bar. We toasted the hotel with various libations including Limoncello, Campari (wonder who ordered that) and some Amaretto. We would be saying arrivederci to St. Quirico tomorrow morning and driving through the Crete area to Siena, where we were scheduled to stay four nights. As you will find out, that four-night stay became a two-night stay for various reasons. Stay tuned. <b> NEXT: THAT’S THE TICKET, AN AWESOME ABBEY AND A SIENA SURPRISE </b> ((H)) |
Oh puhleeeease don't make us wait until Monday for another installment!
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