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I salute you two too! What a marvelous walk that you had on each day of the travel! A pretty long walk I would say, bravos!
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Thanks load Anselm. Now you have me poring over the On Foot website. Just took a short walk too.
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Brilliant.
Thanks so much for sharing this - what a great way to travel. |
A Florence Interlude
We decided to include five days in Florence between the Tuscany and Ligurian walks. We rented an apartment, a basic place on the south side of the Arno River. It was very easy to take the tram into the centre of the city; it stopped only a few hundred metres from our apartment. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2a96a895.jpeg The highlight was meeting Jeane’s cousin Piotr from Poland. He, his partner, and her two adult children had flown down for the weekend.. With long evening dinners, rambling conversations in a mixture of Polish and English, it was a pleasant interlude. Jeane and I also visited the Duomo (we climbed the campanile, an act that could be regarded as a busman’s holiday, given how much climbing we were doing on this holiday), and visited the Uffizi and the Accademia. One of the best views of the Duomo is from the Caffè del Verone at the Museo degli Innocenti: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...200dd5604.jpeg If you pre-book your tickets for the Accademia for the first time slot of the day, you can actually see David without anyone crowding the statue: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...028730029.jpeg By coincidence, we were in Florence on Sunday, September 29th, which was the day of their annual marathon. The city, which is normally thronged with tourists, was even more packed by thousands and thousands of runners and their supporters. Some of the streets in the city centre were almost impassable. Tomorrow: Liguria |
I'm thoroughly enjoying your report. Sounds like my kind of holiday.
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Thanks, Mel. I thought you might be interested, as I know you are a walker.
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A great trip report with beautiful photos. This is an ideal way to see Tuscany.
I never thought of Pienza as a hill town, but your photo confirms that it is. I suppose my memory compares it with Montalcino and Montepulciano. We once stayed for several days in the centre of Montalcino, and we got tired of driving up and down each day. I'm impressed with your doing that road on foot. I've once seen the intarsia floor of the Duomo of Siena, and it would be well worth arranging a stay in Siena to coincide with the display of the full work of art. It's almost always covered, with a small section left visible. It seems it's now uncovered for six weeks after the Palio on the 16th of August. I believe it used to be uncovered for a few days at a time on various occasions. I'm looking forward to your Ligurian trek. |
Liguria
Our starting point was the town of Montalto Pavese, about 70 km south of Milan. We walked for the first two days in rolling farmland. By day three, we were in the Apennines, where we mostly followed the ancient Via del Sale, a route that had once been essential in the salt trade. We remained in the mountains until the sixth and final day, when we dropped down to sea level at the fishing town of Camogli. On Foot rates this walk as “medium-hard.” (By contrast, the Tuscany walk is considered as “easy-medium to medium.”) The trail involved much more changes in altitude, ascending and descending steep-sided forested mountains, walking on high exposed ridges, or on the occasional balcony path on a hillside. Underfoot, we encountered mud, water, uneven rocks, and branches. The contrast between Tuscany and Liguria was remarkable. This was a much more isolated countryside, with fewer villages, less infrastructure, and far less English spoken. During the day, we saw almost no one. In the absence of local restaurants, some of our evening meals were provided by our hosts. We were also deeper into autumn. The grapes had been harvested, leaves were turning yellow, and chestnuts were falling from the trees. At altitude, morning lows fell below 10ºC, while daytime highs were rarely above 16ºC. And for the first time on our journey, we encountered rain while walking. It was wet, very wet, and there was more wind. This walk offers an invigorating experience with spectacular views. We certainly put in a level of exertion that we could be proud of, although there was one day in particular that truly tested our stamina. As for the views, rain and low cloud worked against us. The route, starting in Montalto Pavese and ending in Camogli: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e25165b5cd.png September 30th We transferred by rail from Florence to Voghera, where we were met by a taxi that drove us the remaining half hour to Montalto Pavese. Our accommodation: Cella di Molino, a hillside agriturismo. which we shared with four women, three dogs, and a cat. Our hosts cooked a delicious dinner, and here we met another English couple, who were also walking the same route. |
bvlenci, happily, we only had to walk up to Montalcino once, as we returned by bus on the second day.
Our seeing the Siena Duomo floors uncovered was purely by coincidence, rather than intent. But I agree with you; if a visitor had flexibility in choosing their dates, being there when the floors are displayed would be well worth the effort. |
October 1st
Our first stage was from Montalto Pavese to our evening accommodation, which was just a couple of kilometres beyond Fortunago. A descent and then a long climb took us up onto a ridge, and much of the day was in and out of chestnut forest. Sun with cloudy periods became a solid, drizzly overcast. At 13 km, it was a shortish walk, and despite dawdling over our departure, we managed to walk fast enough that we were going to be too early for the 3:30 check-in at our next accommodation. We paused to explore the village of Fortunago, one of the “Borghi più belli d’Italia,” where we shared the street with peacocks. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b406b0b76.jpeg The English couple who were on the same itinerary. We sometimes saw them on the trail, and usually chatted over drinks or dinner in the evening. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...224e13107.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18730ffc6.jpeg Descending to our evenings accommodation. We were in raincoats by this time. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...141fcb96f.jpeg Our accommodation: Locanda del Molino. Our host, Alessandro, served our evening meal in a outdoor dining room, fortunately covered and heated by giant propane devices. He grows his own grapes (amongst other things, such as lavender), makes his own wines and amaro, and is a warm, amiable host. |
Very interesting way to explore these beautiful regions of Italy. Enjoying your TR and photos!
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Thanks, ANUJ.
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October 2nd
This was a 20 km stage, Fortunago to Varzi. Overcast skies turned to intermittent drizzle and showers. The summit of Monte Bruno was in cloud, so in some places our visibility was less than 100 metres. Our route was again a mixture of lanes, paths, fields, and forest, and here we learned that walking on wet Ligurian clay is like stepping on ice. But all in all, it was a good day https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d99a74f28.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a4afd129.jpeg We made a seemingly endless decent into Varzi, where we met Greta, our host at Locanda di Cicale, our accommodation. She, her brother, and their cousin run the hotel and restaurant. Their dining room, which would normally have been open, was closed, as they were putting extra days into making their own salami. Having offered us beer on arrival, Greta remarked that Varzi is known for its salami, and asked us if we wanted to sample theirs. It was delicious. Dinner was across the street at a pizzeria, a meal we shared with our fellow walkers. Looking down at Varzi. Those mountains beyond are where we are supposed to go the next day: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dc07cfb9.jpeg Jeane and I had been discussing the next day’s walk. The path involved 1250 metres of ascent, all very steep, followed by a ridge walk that promised to offer spectacular views. At 21 km in total, we knew it would be a taxing day, but we had earlier decided that we should attempt it only in good weather. The forecast, however, was for rain, in fact a lot more rain than we had already encountered. This meant the ridge walk would be wet, in cloud, and exposed. Greta, who was also our local On Foot representative, had also been thinking about this, and shortly after our arrival, she recommended that we skip the walk and travel with our luggage to our next night’s accommodation. We didn’t need any persuasion, and in a few moments she had this all set up for us. Our walking companions, who were younger, stronger, and more determined than us, decided to walk. October 3rd We woke to steady rain. After a leisurely breakfast with our walking companions, they set off, while we waited for the luggage pick up at 9:30. The ride was interesting, uphill and foggy every inch of the way, arriving almost an hour later at Capanne di Cosola. Our room was ready for us. The central heat was on, the bar was open, and we settled in for the day, where I wrote these notes. Fog shrouded the building and rain splattered the windows. At an altitude of 1500 metres, the temperature fell under 10º. Late that afternoon, we heard our fellow walkers arrive, wet and cold. Paolo, our host, helped them with their sodden gear, and they later told us that it had been a very uncomfortable day. Our accommodation: Albergo Capanne di Cosola, a recently refurbished hunting lodge. Paolo had the wood stove going in the dining room; the food was hearty and plentiful. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cf1ee2e0.jpeg |
October 4th
Today was our tenth wedding anniversary. It was still raining, but the forecast was for it to taper off through the morning, with some clearing in the afternoon. Paolo told us that it was about 8ºC outside. This stage was a long 22 km to Due Ponti. The first couple of hours were harsh, climbing up onto the ridge to reach an elevation of 1600 metres. We were completely exposed, and the wind was now blowing the rain sideways. The track was deeply rutted, with pools of mud and streams of water under our feet. Our normal walking pace was halved. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...055b1b7c1.jpeg Oddly, we kept meeting cows on the path; they wore bells, so we would hear them long before they emerged through the clouds. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb8485db2.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...247f68e38.jpeg Conditions gradually moderated, changing from wind and rain to simply showers. The forecast for clearing? That was a canard. Those magnificent views from the ridge? Every once in a while the clouds would part and we would see tantalizing glimpses of deep valleys below us. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73b11cc81.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...546c80e7b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a56656ea.jpeg It was never really easy walking, largely because of the wet and slippery trail, plus a lot of ups and downs. The final descent into Due Ponti was a rough path through a forest, and by this time, I had reached my limit. I have never been more fatigued while walking, and this day caused a lot of soul-searching. And marital discussion, I might add. More on this at the end of this report. Our accommodation: Hotel Due Ponti. Our evening meal was served by Luca, our host. October 5th This was to be another long stage, about 22 km to Uscio. There was a shortening option, giving us the opportunity to ride with the luggage to a little town called Colletta de Boasi, reducing the walk by about a third. We were initially reluctant to even consider this, as it felt like we were cheating. But after yesterday’s fatigue, we finally decided to shorten it. Luca, our host, drove us to Boasi, chatting about family, his village, Covid, and schooling. The sun came out, the trail started to dry, and we walked in good spirits. This was a route that included a lot of contour walking, so while we were still at altitude, it was often relatively level. There were, of course, several hills, none of which we perceived as gentle. This section also included a warning for those who are severely affected by vertigo. This entailed a section of balcony path: a very steep slope above us on our right, the narrow path that we were walking on, and then a precipitous drop-off into a forest on our left. The warning unsettled us a little, but we both felt fine. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6907e307b.jpeg This was what we had been hoping for: glorious sun, wonderful walking, and stunning views. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2edf6ee97.jpeg The approach to Uscio revealed the town clinging to the hillside below us. We arrived with a spring still in our step, quite the contrast to the day before. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...100da6c31.jpeg Our accommodation: B & B La Margherita, a very comfortable accommodation with a most gracious and welcoming host. Dinner that evening was at the Trattoria da o Tuggio. |
That walk in the rain and cold 😬 impressive stamina!
This has been a good read for me, as I’m inclined to drool over those views and little villages, and overlook the actual challenges. |
Enjoying this very much. I can relate with hikes that test the spirit. We had a long hike in the Dolomites a few years ago where we apparently missed a turn, and our long descent to the valley was, uh, not on a trail (maybe a small gulley surrounded by bushes?).
We've taken a look at this itinerary on the website, and also the one from the Pyrenees to San Sebastián. |
Adelaidean, thanks for that. The weather was certainly one of the things that made that day a challenge.
ms_go, you must have had a sinking feeling when you realized your were "off piste." In the next post I will talk about On Foot's new app; you won't make any nav errors when you use it! I had a look at that walk in Spain. It looks spectacular, but it has the grading symbol of five little guys walking, so it will be a tough one. |
October 6th
This was our final day, downhill to Camogli, a fishing town on the Mediterranean shore. Luciana, our host, fed us breakfast and remarked that the forecast was for showers; if we wished, her husband would be happy to give us a lift to Camogli, our final destination. We were happy enough to walk, and so we did, once again in cool, unstable weather. We had mixed feelings; on the one hand, we were sad to be wrapping it up; on the other hand, we were delighted that we were soon going to be on our way back home. We caught our first view of the Mediterranean from the balcony of our room in Uscio: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4267a597c.jpeg The path still threw us a few curves: our walking notes cautioned us that the path after Monte Ampola was narrow and slippery when wet (which it was), with a steep drop-off, and then, at the very end, we dealt with a series of endless staircases leading down through the town. It was a 12 km day; we arrived in time for a late lunch, and later explored the waterfront. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ad62bb53.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32df79449.jpeg One of the many staircases in Camogli: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2df7956e9.jpeg Camogli is a lovely place. Yes, it is on the Italian Riviera, and it does cater to sun-seeking tourists, but it hasn’t forgotten its roots as a fishing village. Jeane paddled her feet in the Mediterranean. We stayed at the Hotel La Camogliese and dined at the Ristorante La Camogliese. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c711a3764.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3fff1246.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67f3de69d.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bc3d425d.jpeg And finally, our celebratory dinner: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...774ed2828.jpeg Our total for the Ligurian walk: 85 km. (The complete walk is longer, but we skipped that one day and took a shortening option on another,) The next day we rode the train from Camogli to Milan Centrale. We tracked down the Malpensa Express and went immediately to the airport, where we had booked a room at the Sheraton. This was an indulgence, but it was so convenient for our flight to Canada the next day. A few words about On Foot Holidays: we have used two other UK-based companies to organize our self-guided walks on Offa’s Dyke Path, the Cumbria Way, and the Cotswold Way. On Foot Holidays came up while searching for other European walks. They proved to be an excellent choice, with prompt and helpful communications, well-chosen trails, and superb turn-by-turn walking instructions.. Several things makes On Foot stand out. They have developed a companion app that contains all of the information in one’s walking pack. The app includes a topographical map that shows your route and where you are on the track. Key points, such as upcoming turns on the route, are highlighted with descriptive text and are announced in advance by a chime on your phone. The app even incudes an off-track warning; if you miss a turn because you are engrossed in conversation with your walking partner, it sounds an alarm. (You don’t need to ask how we know about this.) Their walking pack is also personalized for one’s specific travel plans. Knowing, for example, that we would be travelling from Florence to the start of the Ligurian walk, they provided train timetables with recommended options. And finally, they have a local representative for each walk (Daniele in Tuscany and Greta in Liguria), who is there in case one needs help of some kind. They both proved to be very helpful. We were very impressed by the professionalism of On Foot and we recommend them without hesitation. Our walks: https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/rou...thern-tuscany/ https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/routes/ligurian-hills/ We learned a few lessons in Italy. Tuscany was pretty easy, even though I have groused a bit about those end-of-day climbs to our accommodation. Liguria was a challenge, and we knew that when we chose it. We have walked similar distances and similar hills, and we have hiked in cold and wet conditions before. But we were younger. As I mentioned earlier, Jeane just turned 71, and I am now just two months shy of my 75th birthday. The thing that is hardest to accept is that our stamina is decreasing. We want to keep walking, as it is a marvellous way to see a country. Walking together, navigating together, and supporting each other is intimate. The sense of achievement is powerful. Being exposed to other cultures is intensely stimulating. But we will have to be very careful in selecting our walks, possibly avoiding the ones that are rated as “medium-hard,” or else being more prepared to choose a shortening option, even if it does feel like cheating. |
Thank you for taking us along with this memorable trip report! Nice mix of photos and text.
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Well, if your stamina is decreasing, it certainly doesn't hold you back! 😁
Sounds like an amazing trip, not something I could ever do (even when I was younger)! Quite an accomplishment. |
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