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Walking in Tuscany and Liguria
In late September and early October, we undertook two self-guided walks in Italy. The first was called Southern Tuscany, Renaissance Hilltop Towns and Classic Wines, and the second was Liguria, Across the Apennines to the Sea. A UK-based company called On Foot Holidays designed the routes, and arranged for our accommodations, luggage transfers, and, in certain locations, taxi transfers and evening dinners. I’ll write more about On Foot at the end of this trip report.
Tuscany It’s all there: cypress, pine, and oak; olive groves and vineyards; rolling countryside and hilltop villages; delicious food and delightful wines; and days of walking under hot sun. On September 17th, we took a bus from Florence to Siena, where we stayed two nights at a hotel called Al Mercato. It is a stone’s throw from the Campo; our room overlooked the city market. We dined at Osteria il Carroccio (as it happened, this was our best meal in Tuscany) and at Antica Osteria da Divo. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3340e373.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b5863c23.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0515f85ef.jpeg Our visit coincided with the uncovering of the images in the floors of the Duomo: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c4904c7b.jpeg Jeane lights candles whenever we visit a church: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...428fb3a6c.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e73571dd0.jpeg |
September 19th
Our long-distance walk started with a 45-minute taxi ride from Siena to the abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore. We spent an hour or so exploring the abbey, a place that we have since learned rents rooms to travellers. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...318c26e4d.jpeg We then set off on our 11 km introduction to the Tuscan countryside. Our destination was Pieve a Salti, just east of Buonconvento. The first day on the trail is always a bit unsettling. How clear are our walking instructions? How reliable is the mapping software? Are we still in good shape? As it turned out, the answers to the first two were extremely positive. As for our conditioning, we were fit for Tuscany. Liguria was a different kettle of fish. Our route was a mixture of white roads, farmers’ fields, forest paths, and the occasional paved road. We soon saw our first olive trees and then orderly rows of grape. Fall plowing was well underway, so our expectation of rolling green fields was adjusted to the reality of grey-brown Tuscan clay. The land was arid. The white roads of Tuscany: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01594b8db.jpeg Looking back at the abbey: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af7e71491.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b54e4f2af.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0408af693.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...790398ed1.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8fffb933.jpeg We occasionally saw an English couple who were on the same itinerary. Mid-afternoon, we noticed them walking back towards us. There was a boar sitting on the path just around the next corner, they said. Perhaps we could walk as a group of four, making a bit of noise? So we did, and rounded the corner to discover that the boar had moved on. We might have been overcautious, as they are not usually a threat to walkers, but as we learned in the next few days, there are boars everywhere. Their footprints are easily recognizable and they dig up great furrows along the trail. Our accommodation that night was at the Borgo di Pieve a Salti. It is a comfortable rural retreat, but quite isolated, so our dinner was at Podere Caprili, their partner restaurant, one kilometre up the road. The staff drove us over and then later picked us up to take us back to the hotel. |
Interesting! I am tagging along.
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Your walking journey through Tuscany and Liguria sounds incredible! It's fascinating to see the images on the Duomo floors too.
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Cherthor, enjoy the ride! Well, the walk, actually.
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Looking forward to reading more.
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Great pictures. What a wonderful way to explore and experience Italy.
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September 20th
Our destination was Montalcino, 15.5 kilometres away. Our walking notes described the day as a generally easy walk, but with “a sting in its tail.” Truer words were never written. We spent the day on more white roads, fields, forests, and paved laneways. It was all good going until we arrived at the foot of Montalcino, which was perched 300 metres overhead. The ascent was difficult, frequently steep enough to require repetitive switchbacks. It was late afternoon, we were hot and sweaty under unrelenting sun, and we didn’t enjoy one second of it. Yes, the day had a sting in its tail. Riding lessons: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9625d562b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...781482f62.jpeg Montalcino in the distance. First we have to get there, and then we have to climb. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc0fdb6ac.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa5073ae3.jpeg Olives and grapes: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a50d79b6a.jpeg Monte Amiata appears on the horizon. It seemed to be a constant presence for the rest of our time in Tuscany. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...592981bba.jpeg Lunch break https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...71ab5875d.jpeg The contours https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...88e11a477.jpeg Our accommodation was at Hotel Il Giglio, a small family-run establishment with a lovely dining room. An elderly couple presided over it all; the family son and the family grandson arrived later and took their dinner in the dining room. Everyone smiled benevolently at the behaviour of a three-year old. Italians do hold young children in special regard. |
margaretjones, our walking notes described those images as being in "Sgraffito" technique. The lines were cut into the marble and then filled with pitch. I gather that they are covered in canvas for most of the year, and only occasionally uncovered. The price of entry is slightly higher when they are visible.
Fra_Diavolo and Paqngo, I'm writing less and letting the photos tell the story. |
September 21st
Today was a side trip out to another abbey, this one called Sant’ Antimo, near the tiny village of Castelnuovo. Our walking instructions recommended that we take a local bus back to Montalcino, but cautioned us that we should not rely on any timetable posted at the bus stop. Instead, our local contact, a man named Daniele, would send us a text with the latest information on bus times. And so he did. The only two buses would be at 13:56 or 14:36. We were to remember, though, that we had to buy our tickets before we left Montalcino, and that the bus might be early. With all that uncertainty, we set off on a short 11 km walk, a part of it through very dark forest. This path was particularly torn up by boars, and we passed a couple of houses with great barking dogs, but the latter were behind fences, so we were only mildly disturbed. The trail was gentle, and mostly downhill. Outside the forest, the views were lovely, with the distinctive Monte Amiata visible on the skyline. We toured the abbey, and then walked another kilometre up into Castelnuovo, where we had lunch in a bar. We ran into our English walking acquaintances, who had stopped for a drink. We all then stood for the bus, which was late. The ride back to Montalcino took 12 minutes. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...90e3b6adc.jpeg The abbey of Sant' Antimo, with Castelnuovo up on top of the hill: https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f1751d5d7.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30864ab6e.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c909c9f00.jpeg Montalcino is a charming town, highly photogenic, and easy to explore. We dropped into a wine merchant to taste some Brunello. It truly is nectar. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7687760da.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ef3ff107d.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3c32f780.jpeg We stayed a second night at Il Giglio and dined at the cosy Re de Macchia. |
September 22nd
This was Jeane’s 71st birthday. We set off in cool early morning sun, the valley below Montalcino cloaked in thin mist. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a843b7ddd.jpeg Our destination was Bagno Vignoni, 19 km away. The landscape changed; it was more open, with longer vistas, and it somehow seemed greener, although here, too, most of the fields were plowed. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...78098def6.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d6ff23dd3.jpeg Our path dropped down into the Asso Valley, crossing a ford that is sometimes deeply flooded. Our walking notes told us that there would be stepping stones and a hand rope to make the crossing a little easier, and we were reassured when Daniele texted to tell us that the water should be low. (Daniele, it turns out, had gotten a local farmer to place those stepping stones in the water in return for a wheel of cheese!) We arrived to find the water to be very low, and the hand rope still in place. (It can apparently be washed away when the river is in torrent.) We had a long gentle climb back up out of the valley, finally arriving at an agriturismo that had three loose dogs. Our walking notes told us these three were completely harmless, and that the big challenge would be to discourage them from following us. We were indeed greeted in a friendly tail-wagging way, and we were able to shake them off quite easily. Soon after, we were descending into the Orcia valley. Towards the end of the afternoon, as we approached our destination, Jeane was walking some 20 metres ahead of me on a path through some scrubby woods. She rounded a corner and a second later came back into sight. “There’s a loose dog and a man with a gun, but he says it’s ok.” So it was. He was carrying a shotgun, had a belt full of shells, and was trying simultaneously to get the attention of his dog and to assure us that he himself was harmless. Try as I might, I could not shake the image of Elmer Fudd hunting wabbits. Bagno Vignoni is, of course, on a hill top. The climb, again at the end of a hot day, was up a series of very uneven steps that run past ancient thermal pools. We pressed on, reaching the town square, where we found our B&B. A glass of white wine improved our outlook. Our accommodation was at Locanda del Loggiato; we celebrated Jeane's birthday at Bistro Languorino. |
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7a1ed447f.jpeg Our path occasionally coincided with the Via Francigena. Walking from Canterbury to Rome would be an undertaking. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f9e3e9b7.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cee55b40.jpeg |
Love this! I could see us enjoying a trip like this. So far, it looks like your weather has been good. We were a bit further north (Bologna area) about a week earlier than this, and there was a lot of rain. That's always given me pause for taking on a walking or biking trip.
Looking forward to more! |
ms_go, this walk was one of our all-time favourites. The scenery is gorgeous, and notwithstanding my grumbling about climbing to a hilltop village every afternoon, it's within reach of anyone who is reasonably fit. On Foot Holidays also offer shortening options, so you can reduce you daily kilometres by riding part way with your luggage or getting picked up part way along the trail.
I think we were lucky with the weather, as we walked mostly in sun, with daytime highs in the the mid-20º C range. But things sure changed around the 1st of October, which had a big impact on our walk in Liguria, as you will see in the next few posts. By the way, I noticed you recently posted about a canal walk, which I want to go back and read. Jeane and I have wondered whether we should try one of those. |
I made the mistake of opening the On Foot Holidays website - and the planning wheels may have started turning :toj: Looking forward to your photos from the Ligurian Hills walk, as this is an area that has long been of interest and would pair well with Genoa.
Our Regent's Canal walk was just a one-day thing, but we really enjoyed it. |
AA, this is our kinda TR. Great imagery (not a duff shot in the entire collection) and endlessly interesting.
Happy Birthday to Jeane! And a salute to you both for doing this trip on foot. Regents Canal is a great walk. The Beeb used it as a doc backdrop just yesterday. We just returned from the Pyrenees and can recommend it to avid hikers. *Fave foto: the arcos/blue sky one above those Brunello bottles. I am done. the AATR |
wow, I've cycled over most of this (on self organised tours) and the only thing I can attest to is it really is beautiful and your photos are great. My Ligurian cycling was along the coastal bike route so going to be interested to see where you went there.
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ms_go, we were very happy dealing with On Foot, and their various offerings are tempting indeed. I'll be writing more about them after I describe our Ligurian walk.
zebec, thanks for that. Given your photographic skills, your compliment means a great deal. bilbo, I hadn't realized there was a bike route along the Ligurian coast. It must be carved into the hillside in places, given the proximity of the mountains to the sea. |
Originally Posted by AnselmAdorne
(Post 17607360)
ms_go, we were very happy dealing with On Foot, and their various offerings are tempting indeed. I'll be writing more about them after I describe our Ligurian walk.
zebec, thanks for that. Given your photographic skills, your compliment means a great deal. bilbo, I hadn't realized there was a bike route along the Ligurian coast. It must be carved into the hillside in places, given the proximity of the mountains to the sea. |
September 23rd
This was an easy day, 14 km to Pienza, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. En route, the landscape echoed that of the previous day, making it a glorious outing. During the afternoon we heard thunder, which seemed to stay very far away. After we ascended (of course it was a hilltop town), we ran into our English friends and chatted over a glass of wine (ok, it may have been two). That night it rained heavily as we walked back to our hotel. We hadn’t brought our rain jackets, so we arrived back soaking wet. Our accommodation: the very hospitable Piccolo Hotel La Valle, and dinner at Il Chiostro. September 24th This was our sixth and final day of walking in Tuscany. It was another short 14 km, with lovely walking until we had to slog our way up the ramp into Montepulciano. I wouldn’t describe our entry as triumphant (you need horses, heralds, and trumpets for that kind of thing) but it felt wonderful to have it under our belt. We had walked a total of 85 km, all through spectacular countryside, and we had enjoyed every meal and every drop of wine. There is something profound about the solitude of the trail; we often walked for hours without seeing another person, and yet we did have time to exchange walking talk with those we did meet. We also became friends with the couple from England, whom we would see at breakfast or occasionally on the trail. After a couple of days we were sharing pre-dinner drinks. Luckily for us, save for the evening soaking in Pienza, we enjoyed dry and mostly sunny weather every day. I will say that I cannot imagine walking this route in the summer; the heat would be intense and there are very long stretches without any shade whatsoever. Our accommodation in Montepulciano: Meuble il Riccio, a very nice hotel. We had treated ourselves to an upgraded room, which included a beautiful view of parts of the town and of the deep valley below. After drinks with our English friends, we dined at Ai Quattro Venti. Another Tuscan morning on the trail: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5feedad86.jpeg Looking back at Pienza: https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b304e0579.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea30b8b8b.jpeg The climb to Montepulciano: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce2f5c4f9.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a071c3bb.jpeg The next day we woke to a striking view from our window: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8b9fe5169.jpeg We took a bus from Montepulciano to Chiusi, and then a train onwards to Florence. |
I salute you two too! What a marvelous walk that you had on each day of the travel! A pretty long walk I would say, bravos!
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Thanks load Anselm. Now you have me poring over the On Foot website. Just took a short walk too.
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Brilliant.
Thanks so much for sharing this - what a great way to travel. |
A Florence Interlude
We decided to include five days in Florence between the Tuscany and Ligurian walks. We rented an apartment, a basic place on the south side of the Arno River. It was very easy to take the tram into the centre of the city; it stopped only a few hundred metres from our apartment. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2a96a895.jpeg The highlight was meeting Jeane’s cousin Piotr from Poland. He, his partner, and her two adult children had flown down for the weekend.. With long evening dinners, rambling conversations in a mixture of Polish and English, it was a pleasant interlude. Jeane and I also visited the Duomo (we climbed the campanile, an act that could be regarded as a busman’s holiday, given how much climbing we were doing on this holiday), and visited the Uffizi and the Accademia. One of the best views of the Duomo is from the Caffè del Verone at the Museo degli Innocenti: https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...200dd5604.jpeg If you pre-book your tickets for the Accademia for the first time slot of the day, you can actually see David without anyone crowding the statue: https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...028730029.jpeg By coincidence, we were in Florence on Sunday, September 29th, which was the day of their annual marathon. The city, which is normally thronged with tourists, was even more packed by thousands and thousands of runners and their supporters. Some of the streets in the city centre were almost impassable. Tomorrow: Liguria |
I'm thoroughly enjoying your report. Sounds like my kind of holiday.
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Thanks, Mel. I thought you might be interested, as I know you are a walker.
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A great trip report with beautiful photos. This is an ideal way to see Tuscany.
I never thought of Pienza as a hill town, but your photo confirms that it is. I suppose my memory compares it with Montalcino and Montepulciano. We once stayed for several days in the centre of Montalcino, and we got tired of driving up and down each day. I'm impressed with your doing that road on foot. I've once seen the intarsia floor of the Duomo of Siena, and it would be well worth arranging a stay in Siena to coincide with the display of the full work of art. It's almost always covered, with a small section left visible. It seems it's now uncovered for six weeks after the Palio on the 16th of August. I believe it used to be uncovered for a few days at a time on various occasions. I'm looking forward to your Ligurian trek. |
Liguria
Our starting point was the town of Montalto Pavese, about 70 km south of Milan. We walked for the first two days in rolling farmland. By day three, we were in the Apennines, where we mostly followed the ancient Via del Sale, a route that had once been essential in the salt trade. We remained in the mountains until the sixth and final day, when we dropped down to sea level at the fishing town of Camogli. On Foot rates this walk as “medium-hard.” (By contrast, the Tuscany walk is considered as “easy-medium to medium.”) The trail involved much more changes in altitude, ascending and descending steep-sided forested mountains, walking on high exposed ridges, or on the occasional balcony path on a hillside. Underfoot, we encountered mud, water, uneven rocks, and branches. The contrast between Tuscany and Liguria was remarkable. This was a much more isolated countryside, with fewer villages, less infrastructure, and far less English spoken. During the day, we saw almost no one. In the absence of local restaurants, some of our evening meals were provided by our hosts. We were also deeper into autumn. The grapes had been harvested, leaves were turning yellow, and chestnuts were falling from the trees. At altitude, morning lows fell below 10ºC, while daytime highs were rarely above 16ºC. And for the first time on our journey, we encountered rain while walking. It was wet, very wet, and there was more wind. This walk offers an invigorating experience with spectacular views. We certainly put in a level of exertion that we could be proud of, although there was one day in particular that truly tested our stamina. As for the views, rain and low cloud worked against us. The route, starting in Montalto Pavese and ending in Camogli: https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e25165b5cd.png September 30th We transferred by rail from Florence to Voghera, where we were met by a taxi that drove us the remaining half hour to Montalto Pavese. Our accommodation: Cella di Molino, a hillside agriturismo. which we shared with four women, three dogs, and a cat. Our hosts cooked a delicious dinner, and here we met another English couple, who were also walking the same route. |
bvlenci, happily, we only had to walk up to Montalcino once, as we returned by bus on the second day.
Our seeing the Siena Duomo floors uncovered was purely by coincidence, rather than intent. But I agree with you; if a visitor had flexibility in choosing their dates, being there when the floors are displayed would be well worth the effort. |
October 1st
Our first stage was from Montalto Pavese to our evening accommodation, which was just a couple of kilometres beyond Fortunago. A descent and then a long climb took us up onto a ridge, and much of the day was in and out of chestnut forest. Sun with cloudy periods became a solid, drizzly overcast. At 13 km, it was a shortish walk, and despite dawdling over our departure, we managed to walk fast enough that we were going to be too early for the 3:30 check-in at our next accommodation. We paused to explore the village of Fortunago, one of the “Borghi più belli d’Italia,” where we shared the street with peacocks. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b406b0b76.jpeg The English couple who were on the same itinerary. We sometimes saw them on the trail, and usually chatted over drinks or dinner in the evening. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...224e13107.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18730ffc6.jpeg Descending to our evenings accommodation. We were in raincoats by this time. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...141fcb96f.jpeg Our accommodation: Locanda del Molino. Our host, Alessandro, served our evening meal in a outdoor dining room, fortunately covered and heated by giant propane devices. He grows his own grapes (amongst other things, such as lavender), makes his own wines and amaro, and is a warm, amiable host. |
Very interesting way to explore these beautiful regions of Italy. Enjoying your TR and photos!
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Thanks, ANUJ.
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October 2nd
This was a 20 km stage, Fortunago to Varzi. Overcast skies turned to intermittent drizzle and showers. The summit of Monte Bruno was in cloud, so in some places our visibility was less than 100 metres. Our route was again a mixture of lanes, paths, fields, and forest, and here we learned that walking on wet Ligurian clay is like stepping on ice. But all in all, it was a good day https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d99a74f28.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a4afd129.jpeg We made a seemingly endless decent into Varzi, where we met Greta, our host at Locanda di Cicale, our accommodation. She, her brother, and their cousin run the hotel and restaurant. Their dining room, which would normally have been open, was closed, as they were putting extra days into making their own salami. Having offered us beer on arrival, Greta remarked that Varzi is known for its salami, and asked us if we wanted to sample theirs. It was delicious. Dinner was across the street at a pizzeria, a meal we shared with our fellow walkers. Looking down at Varzi. Those mountains beyond are where we are supposed to go the next day: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5dc07cfb9.jpeg Jeane and I had been discussing the next day’s walk. The path involved 1250 metres of ascent, all very steep, followed by a ridge walk that promised to offer spectacular views. At 21 km in total, we knew it would be a taxing day, but we had earlier decided that we should attempt it only in good weather. The forecast, however, was for rain, in fact a lot more rain than we had already encountered. This meant the ridge walk would be wet, in cloud, and exposed. Greta, who was also our local On Foot representative, had also been thinking about this, and shortly after our arrival, she recommended that we skip the walk and travel with our luggage to our next night’s accommodation. We didn’t need any persuasion, and in a few moments she had this all set up for us. Our walking companions, who were younger, stronger, and more determined than us, decided to walk. October 3rd We woke to steady rain. After a leisurely breakfast with our walking companions, they set off, while we waited for the luggage pick up at 9:30. The ride was interesting, uphill and foggy every inch of the way, arriving almost an hour later at Capanne di Cosola. Our room was ready for us. The central heat was on, the bar was open, and we settled in for the day, where I wrote these notes. Fog shrouded the building and rain splattered the windows. At an altitude of 1500 metres, the temperature fell under 10º. Late that afternoon, we heard our fellow walkers arrive, wet and cold. Paolo, our host, helped them with their sodden gear, and they later told us that it had been a very uncomfortable day. Our accommodation: Albergo Capanne di Cosola, a recently refurbished hunting lodge. Paolo had the wood stove going in the dining room; the food was hearty and plentiful. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6cf1ee2e0.jpeg |
October 4th
Today was our tenth wedding anniversary. It was still raining, but the forecast was for it to taper off through the morning, with some clearing in the afternoon. Paolo told us that it was about 8ºC outside. This stage was a long 22 km to Due Ponti. The first couple of hours were harsh, climbing up onto the ridge to reach an elevation of 1600 metres. We were completely exposed, and the wind was now blowing the rain sideways. The track was deeply rutted, with pools of mud and streams of water under our feet. Our normal walking pace was halved. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...055b1b7c1.jpeg Oddly, we kept meeting cows on the path; they wore bells, so we would hear them long before they emerged through the clouds. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb8485db2.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...247f68e38.jpeg Conditions gradually moderated, changing from wind and rain to simply showers. The forecast for clearing? That was a canard. Those magnificent views from the ridge? Every once in a while the clouds would part and we would see tantalizing glimpses of deep valleys below us. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...73b11cc81.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...546c80e7b.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6a56656ea.jpeg It was never really easy walking, largely because of the wet and slippery trail, plus a lot of ups and downs. The final descent into Due Ponti was a rough path through a forest, and by this time, I had reached my limit. I have never been more fatigued while walking, and this day caused a lot of soul-searching. And marital discussion, I might add. More on this at the end of this report. Our accommodation: Hotel Due Ponti. Our evening meal was served by Luca, our host. October 5th This was to be another long stage, about 22 km to Uscio. There was a shortening option, giving us the opportunity to ride with the luggage to a little town called Colletta de Boasi, reducing the walk by about a third. We were initially reluctant to even consider this, as it felt like we were cheating. But after yesterday’s fatigue, we finally decided to shorten it. Luca, our host, drove us to Boasi, chatting about family, his village, Covid, and schooling. The sun came out, the trail started to dry, and we walked in good spirits. This was a route that included a lot of contour walking, so while we were still at altitude, it was often relatively level. There were, of course, several hills, none of which we perceived as gentle. This section also included a warning for those who are severely affected by vertigo. This entailed a section of balcony path: a very steep slope above us on our right, the narrow path that we were walking on, and then a precipitous drop-off into a forest on our left. The warning unsettled us a little, but we both felt fine. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6907e307b.jpeg This was what we had been hoping for: glorious sun, wonderful walking, and stunning views. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2edf6ee97.jpeg The approach to Uscio revealed the town clinging to the hillside below us. We arrived with a spring still in our step, quite the contrast to the day before. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...100da6c31.jpeg Our accommodation: B & B La Margherita, a very comfortable accommodation with a most gracious and welcoming host. Dinner that evening was at the Trattoria da o Tuggio. |
That walk in the rain and cold 😬 impressive stamina!
This has been a good read for me, as I’m inclined to drool over those views and little villages, and overlook the actual challenges. |
Enjoying this very much. I can relate with hikes that test the spirit. We had a long hike in the Dolomites a few years ago where we apparently missed a turn, and our long descent to the valley was, uh, not on a trail (maybe a small gulley surrounded by bushes?).
We've taken a look at this itinerary on the website, and also the one from the Pyrenees to San Sebastián. |
Adelaidean, thanks for that. The weather was certainly one of the things that made that day a challenge.
ms_go, you must have had a sinking feeling when you realized your were "off piste." In the next post I will talk about On Foot's new app; you won't make any nav errors when you use it! I had a look at that walk in Spain. It looks spectacular, but it has the grading symbol of five little guys walking, so it will be a tough one. |
October 6th
This was our final day, downhill to Camogli, a fishing town on the Mediterranean shore. Luciana, our host, fed us breakfast and remarked that the forecast was for showers; if we wished, her husband would be happy to give us a lift to Camogli, our final destination. We were happy enough to walk, and so we did, once again in cool, unstable weather. We had mixed feelings; on the one hand, we were sad to be wrapping it up; on the other hand, we were delighted that we were soon going to be on our way back home. We caught our first view of the Mediterranean from the balcony of our room in Uscio: https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4267a597c.jpeg The path still threw us a few curves: our walking notes cautioned us that the path after Monte Ampola was narrow and slippery when wet (which it was), with a steep drop-off, and then, at the very end, we dealt with a series of endless staircases leading down through the town. It was a 12 km day; we arrived in time for a late lunch, and later explored the waterfront. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ad62bb53.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32df79449.jpeg One of the many staircases in Camogli: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2df7956e9.jpeg Camogli is a lovely place. Yes, it is on the Italian Riviera, and it does cater to sun-seeking tourists, but it hasn’t forgotten its roots as a fishing village. Jeane paddled her feet in the Mediterranean. We stayed at the Hotel La Camogliese and dined at the Ristorante La Camogliese. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c711a3764.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3fff1246.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67f3de69d.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bc3d425d.jpeg And finally, our celebratory dinner: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...774ed2828.jpeg Our total for the Ligurian walk: 85 km. (The complete walk is longer, but we skipped that one day and took a shortening option on another,) The next day we rode the train from Camogli to Milan Centrale. We tracked down the Malpensa Express and went immediately to the airport, where we had booked a room at the Sheraton. This was an indulgence, but it was so convenient for our flight to Canada the next day. A few words about On Foot Holidays: we have used two other UK-based companies to organize our self-guided walks on Offa’s Dyke Path, the Cumbria Way, and the Cotswold Way. On Foot Holidays came up while searching for other European walks. They proved to be an excellent choice, with prompt and helpful communications, well-chosen trails, and superb turn-by-turn walking instructions.. Several things makes On Foot stand out. They have developed a companion app that contains all of the information in one’s walking pack. The app includes a topographical map that shows your route and where you are on the track. Key points, such as upcoming turns on the route, are highlighted with descriptive text and are announced in advance by a chime on your phone. The app even incudes an off-track warning; if you miss a turn because you are engrossed in conversation with your walking partner, it sounds an alarm. (You don’t need to ask how we know about this.) Their walking pack is also personalized for one’s specific travel plans. Knowing, for example, that we would be travelling from Florence to the start of the Ligurian walk, they provided train timetables with recommended options. And finally, they have a local representative for each walk (Daniele in Tuscany and Greta in Liguria), who is there in case one needs help of some kind. They both proved to be very helpful. We were very impressed by the professionalism of On Foot and we recommend them without hesitation. Our walks: https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/rou...thern-tuscany/ https://www.onfootholidays.co.uk/routes/ligurian-hills/ We learned a few lessons in Italy. Tuscany was pretty easy, even though I have groused a bit about those end-of-day climbs to our accommodation. Liguria was a challenge, and we knew that when we chose it. We have walked similar distances and similar hills, and we have hiked in cold and wet conditions before. But we were younger. As I mentioned earlier, Jeane just turned 71, and I am now just two months shy of my 75th birthday. The thing that is hardest to accept is that our stamina is decreasing. We want to keep walking, as it is a marvellous way to see a country. Walking together, navigating together, and supporting each other is intimate. The sense of achievement is powerful. Being exposed to other cultures is intensely stimulating. But we will have to be very careful in selecting our walks, possibly avoiding the ones that are rated as “medium-hard,” or else being more prepared to choose a shortening option, even if it does feel like cheating. |
Thank you for taking us along with this memorable trip report! Nice mix of photos and text.
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Well, if your stamina is decreasing, it certainly doesn't hold you back! 😁
Sounds like an amazing trip, not something I could ever do (even when I was younger)! Quite an accomplishment. |
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