Stop reading!!! Seriously.

I love Venice. I've been there twice. I can't think of a single negative thing to say about it. I don't go at a fast and furious pace on trips. I take my time and wander. That's exactly what I did twice (4-5 days each trip) around Venice.

To miss visiting San Marcos because someone(s) on the internet doesn't like it would be a HUGE mistake imo.

Maybe it's just me, and I admit I've only been to Venice 3 times - but the crowds have never bothered me. And two of my visits were in May.

Avoid the beaten path and you will be fine. My Mom commented that she thought Venice was deserted - and a lot of it is, because the day trippers only go to a few popular spots.

Pre- 9 AM and post 5 or 6 PM and even those popular spots are a different place entirely.

Venice is magical. You'll love it.

My husband and I spent 2.5 days in Venice at the end of a whirlwind Italy trip in early November 2005. We found a lot of the tourists sites practically deserted or with minimal waits. The Square was serenely quiet at 8:30am in the morning and after the sun set at 5pm. It was beautiful. We loved walking through the winding streets at night. So my advice is to quit reading the negative posts and focus on what you want to do and experience. Enjoy it!

As you have read above, there are many very positive posts regarding Venice. My wife and I thoroughly enjoyed every minute we were there. The main attractions you should not miss but our best time, as some have mentioned, was just wandering around, looking in stores, going to the islands, riding on the Grand Canal, and yes- taking a gondolla "cruise". We were on a Po River Cruise which ended in Venice so our "hotel" docked right next to St. Mark's Square. Enjoy it. It is a memorable city- next to Paris, my favorite.

>>I know we will check out the Guggenheim, but what else and where else should be on our list of off the beaten track but still wondrous places to see while we are in Venice?<<

It might help to have an idea of what Venice is all about. It has a (roughly) 1500-year history; it didn't need an American heiress to put it on the map.

Sure, you can wander the back streets and ooh-and-aah about how picturesque it all is. Or you can
read a little (a guidebook is useful...) and discover a few of the gems that most tourists never go near. Two examples: Santa Maria dei Miracoli, Ca Rezzonico.

Our favourite trip to Venice was in very early June. (We were also there a couple of times leading school groups in March/April, but somehow the idea of romance doesn't work surrounded by 53 teenagers and venice IS romantic!)

We stayed in Traghetto/Cannareggio, a real neighbourhood, with local, unfancy bars,stores where Venetians shop, trattorias, university life. It is adjacent to the old Jewish area with its fascinating museum, restaurants and history.

It is long way from St. Marks in price, degree of 'crowdedness' and ambiance, way off the beaten track. We would always stay there, but there are those Fodorites that would be horrified by this choice.

But,

On my second visit to Venice, I made a real effort to seek out interesting things to see besides Piazza San Marco and the Doges Palace. Here's what I did in 4 days.

Burano - I'm a photographer and really enjoyed the island

Ca d'Oro
Guggenheim
La Scuola Grande di San Rocco
Basilica (again)
Santa Maria della Salute
Il Frari
Accademia
Murano
wandered, wandered and wandered

Still haven't done a gondola ride!

Hi, butnot,

I'm planning my 4th trip, [1st for kids, 2nd for DH] at easter for a week. knowing they'll want to avoid crowds, I got hold of a great book called "Venice for Pleasure". it's on amazon.

the author [sorry, forgotten his name] takes you on 4 walks off the beaten track, doing nothing much in particular. the point is NOT to make for all the tourist sites but to enjoy venice. of course, you can do the sites if you wish, as you'll go very close to them. but he encourages you to take the smallest calle, to look at the buildings themselves, to stop and have a coffee or meal on the way.

Take your time, don't feel you have to see everything, and you'll have a wonderful time.

regards, ann

Maybe I'm weird, but Basilica San Marco is the only church where I have wept uncontrollably upon seeing how indescribably beautiful it was, with all the marble flooring and columns, and all the gold and mosaics covering the walls and ceilings. Such a rich history as well.

It is very easy to avoid the lines to get in by simply making an entry reservation and taking your email confirmation to the head of the line.
http://www.alata.it/eng/BOOKING/sanmarco.asp

Otherwise, just go wandering away from San Marco and Rialto... very charming little squares, hidden corners, small canals...

Ignore the naysayers. Venice is lovely and can be truly magical at times. If you don't like the crowds, don't go where the crowds are. If you don't like the heat, don't go when it's hot.

Some of the people who complain about how nasty and crowded it is never seem to get past San Marco or the main tourist route between San Marco and Rialto. If you hate crowds, then get off that VERY beaten path!

As everyone else has said above, Venice can feel nearly deserted if you just take the time to walk a few blocks away from the crowds. I found a lovely square where there were practically no tourists and enjoyed chatting with an Italian mom while her cute kids played soccer. If you make the effort to seek out the places and things that appeal to you and avoid S. Marco in the afternoon when it's full of daytrippers, you won't be disappointed.

Oh.... how I miss Venice.

We also did not know what to expect. My husband did not want to go because his impressions (from his Sister who had been AGES ago in August was smelly, crowded, expensive, with some added thought he would have to walk around in hip waders). It took alot to get this trip done.

That said, we went in May a few years ago, rented an apartment, and spent 10 sublime days wandering, sitting, people watching, eating, sleeping... It was glorious.

Favorites -

San Girogio Maggiore to hear the Monks chant
Santa Maria Della Salute - my favorite church outside of Notre Dame
The "Circle Tour" on the vaparetto - just get on (I think it's #1, but check) and ride it around at sunset when you can still view the buildings.
A gondola ride - almost didn't do it - didn't want to be cheesy, and they are expensive, but we found someone we connected with, asked to stay off the Grand Canal, and it was a great night, going along the small canals at sunset, seeing things we never would have otherwise seen
Sitting outside at a cafe watching the local kids play soccer in "our campo" San Gimignano
Sitting on a small canal eating dinner, hearing the Campanille bells ring
Hearing the orchestras dueling on St Mark's Piazza
The Bascillica.... beautiful
Guidecca for lunch, looking back toward the other side
Dorsodoro - great part of Venice
Torcello - climbing the tower - the view is amazing
Hidden pockets everywhere.
The amazing treasures in the churches
Lying in bed with the windows open in our apartment, listening to the family next door sing "Volare"...
the friendliness of the Venetian people...

Safe, serene, mysterious, we can't wait to go back. I left a piece of my heart there.

Thanks to all who have taken the time to reply and tell me your lovely stories about being in Venice. I will be following your advice. For those who mentioned the importance of the time of year for the visit - we are going in early April, 2 weeks after Easter. I do not believe there will be much cruise activity at that time, since most of the ships don't ramp up their Mediterranean itineraries until later in the month. Hopefully that should alleviate the crowds a bit.

To Lorac - in the end, I couldn't imagine what could be my only trip to Italy without seeing Venice, despite the negativity I had read and heard. The length of our stay is a function of the type of trip I planned, allowing us enough time in each location to allow us to actually enjoy it - to rise leisurely, stroll about and get the flavor of the place, along with seeing some (not attempting 'all') of the must see sights.

To adventureseeker - how did you "adjust to local time immediately"?

To Zerlina - your sarcasm I really don't need. Why bother responding?
I will certainly spend time with a guide book before traveling, but the insight and kind help from the other Fodorites has helped me make many decisions about this trip, and the rest of the responders to my question have been more than helpful. And why the sense of offense about the Guggenheim?

To the rest of you - thanks again - and anyone who has more to add, I am printing it all out!

PS: If you want peace and quiet, absolutely visit the gorgeous Santa Maria dei Miracoli in Cannaregio (iirc). There were maybe two other people in there when I visited and it was so great to be able to sit in silence. It's really lovely.

Hi butnotrmpt, my husband, who is fairly well travelled, considers Venice his favourite city. I do too but it ties with Seville and Montepulciano for my favourites not to mention Amsterdam and Paris of course. And I haven't been to Greece yet. You will have a wonderful time I'm sure - lots of good ideas and recommendations from other Foderites.

Regarding the jet lag, we always nap in the afternoon then stay up late and adjust to local time usually within a day. But I cannot go anywhere after a long overnight flight without that nap - we tried last year to take the hop on hop off bus in Barcelona as our hotel room wasn't ready and I fell asleep five minutes after we got going.

I love Venice. It is just magical.My first glimpse of San Marco Square was after a lovely dinner with Globus our TG walked us down a dark alley and we came out at San Marco at about 10:00 PM. The Square was totally deserted and the sight of it all lit up just took my breath away.Dh has never seen Venice and I cannot wait to share it with him this coming May. I have longed to return to Venice since I was there 3 years ago.This time I will be with DH and we will have more time to just wander.
We never go to bed when we arrive in Europe after our overnight flight. That is the worse thing you can do if you want to adjust to your new time zone.At least it is for me. We keep going till night,have an early supper and go to bed about 9 PM. By the next day we have adjusted to the new time zone. I guess because I am usually so excited (7th Europe trip in May)I do not find it difficult to keep going. I just wish I could sleep on the plane but sleep eludes me.My biggest problem adjusting is when I get back home. It takes me about 1 week to stop waking up at 2:30 AM!!!I spend lots of time on my computer in the middle of the night!lol

There have been many threads debating how to best adjust to the time change when travelling to Europe. I think what you have to find is what's best for you. The first time I travelled to Europe, I stayed awake until 8:00 pm, with great difficulty, then I was up at 3:00 in the morning needing breakfast! The following trips I did the nap thing and it has worked for me. The important thing is to try to find what works best for you from the many recommendations.

Hi B,

>I am unnerved by some of the comments about Venice.

Stop reading them.

>is my hotel choice (Locanda Orseolo)
a mistake?

I think that it has gotten good reviews here and on www.tripadvisor.com

Truman Capote described Venice as a "box of bon bons".

You needn't plan to visit every possible site. Just enjoy it.

Watch the sunrise over the Salute. Visit the Rialto fish market very early in the morning. Take a sunset cruise on the Grand Canal. Kiss a SO on the Rialto Bridge.

((I))

Count yourself lucky that you got into Locando Orseolo. We stayed there a few years ago. I wondered about all the great reviews about how nice the innkeepers were. Why did I really care? I'm not going there to make friends, I'm going to see Venice. But after meeting them and leaving there, it was truly the highlight of our trip. Every morning they were just dying to cook us eggs. We are American and I think they thought we would want eggs. We ate their delicious crepes instead. They gave us wonderful restaurant choices, booked our trains and tours for us, and were just pleasant to see after a day of touring. And our room on the canal was just adorable.

Venice is so small that everything is close to St. Marks. The beauty of Venice is that if you go a block this way or that way, the city completely changes and you will swear you are the only one in the world there.

Definitely do the square in the morning before all the annoying kids with birdseed on their arms arrive.

Take the walking tour the Locanda recommends. It was wonderful and made us feel more intimate with the city. There is also a boat tour they recommend which was great also. After seeing the water all day long it was great to get out in it. Both of these tours are staffed by locals.

There is a giant book that gives you the entire history of Venice. It is really long, but is very readable and well written. It is "A History of Venice" by John Julius Norwich. Start reading it now. It really makes you connect with the history of the place.

You will love it.

Dear Butnot..I was also surprised at the negative commentary about the Guggenheim and the cheap shot at Peggy. It is an amazing museum and, from the biographies, she was welcomed by Venetians. I think it is a tribute to Italy that this American woman, who lived an alternative lifestyle before the world knew we needed to make room for that category, was more comfortable in Venice than she was in Manhattan. There is much more on show at The Guggenheim than the Dalis and the Chagalls!

butnotrmpt,

We adjusted to local time immediately by getting right on track with it's time zone.

We were exhilarated and zonked from our long flight, but made a point not to give in and nap. We also went to bed and woke up when we normally would.

I was surprised at how easily we adjusted. (On day #2, we did sneak in an hour cat nap before dinner)