Venice itinerary
 

I will be in Venice for two days next week and would be greatfull for a suggested easy itinerary to see all the main sights (without overfilling the two days) with lunch stopoffs on the way.There appear to be plenty of Venice experts out there! <BR>Thanks,Mike.

Hi mike <BR>Not too long ago Venice expert Paolo posted here a one-day quick tour of Venice. If you do a Search on Venice you may find it. <BR>If you can't, I incorporated some of it into my sightseeing notes on Venice; if you would like to see them, please email me. <BR>Most good guidebooks have a suggested one-,two-, or three-day itinerary for Venice. All you need is a good map; <BR>I recommend Streetwise Venice as being very helpful, compact, and easy to use. <BR>American Express, San Marco 1471, phone 041 520 0844 offers several guided tours. There is a two-hour morning tour that includes St Mark's Square, the Doge's Palace, the prison, the Campanile, and sometimes a glass-blowing demonstration. An afternoon tour includes several palaces and churches and a gondola ride. There are evening tours including gondola rides as well. <BR>The office is open Monday-Saturday from 9-5, approximately. <BR>San Marco is tourist central in terms of sightseeing (Doge's Palace, Basilica, Campanile), boutiques, jewelery and glass shops and many cafes and restaurants, many of which are not worth their prices. There are many "campi" (small squares) in Venice, but San Marco is the only "Piazza". By all means have an overpriced drink or snack at one of the outdoor cafes in the Piazza, either Florian's or Quadri. They have dueling bands playing corny music and the food isn't memorable, but it seems everyone, even Venetians, end up at one of these cafes at some point. They do have pretty good pastries and hot chocolate. If you sit outside, they will add a music charge onto your bill, but there really isn't much point in sitting inside. Sit outside, and you will always remember the hour you spend there. <BR>As for a general approach, if you can't find a suggested walking route, then I would pick a destination for the morning or afternoon, like the Peggy Guggenheim Collection or the Salute Church or the Ghetto. Find it on your map, and set out. You will be fascinated by what you see along the way. You will walk into a small campo (small square) and notice a church that you may decide to look at. You will pass a cafe and decide to take a break. You will get turned around and <BR>find yourself in narrow alleyways, surrounded on both sides with four or five story buildings, each with flower-filled window boxes. You'll pass a shop and decide to go in. You may get to your planned destination that day, or save it for later, but you will not have wasted your time. <BR>

Mike: to draw an effective itinerary for you it would help to know: <BR> <BR>a) what day of week will you be arriving in Venice; <BR>b) what are your arrival and departure schedulled times; <BR>c) in which hotel are you intending to stay; and <BR>d) what are your main interests? In other words, besides the Basilica and a vaporetto tour of the Gran Canal (a certain must), which of the following would interest you most: **Palazzo Ducale (2hr, architecture, history and paintings), **Gallerie dell'Accademia (2hr, mixed bag Venetian paintings from 14-16 centuries), **Scuola Grande di San Rocco (1hr, architecture and Tintoretto's one man show), *Collezione Peggy Guggenheim (1 hr, modern art), *Ca' Rezzonico (1 hr, 18th century art and interior decoration), **Frari church (1hr, architecture and paintings), *San Zanipoló church (1 hr, architecture and mortuary sculpture) and a tour of the lagoon islands (3-4 hrs, either Murano-glass, or Burano-lace and Torcello). Estimated times are average, take or give some depending on personal interests. <BR> <BR>Venice is a city where strolling and geting lost should be a priority. One shouldn't use up most of the time inside buildings. With only two days to spare in Venice, one has to be selective regarding the number of sites to be visited in detail. You should therefore plan to visit at most 4 of the above mentioned sites. <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR> <BR>

Paolo,Iwill be arriving on a tuesday in Venice staying at the Europa and Regina.Arrival at about 1700 at the airport and departing 1000,with two clear days in venice <BR>My interests are general,but do sometimes suffer from overkill on architecture and art and more than one major venue in a morning would be too much.A tour of San Marco on the first morning and a trip up the grand canal in the afternoon would account for the first day I guess and the second day would be at the modern art museum and a trip to Murano.Otherwise I very much look forward to walking aimlessly and finding wonderfull restaurants (hopeless romantic or what!).Can you fill any gaps or any other suggestions?Thanks to you and Elaine for your help!Mike

Be sure to eat a dinner or lunch at Da Fiori...make reservations! Phone from your hotel. It's expensive but it's also the finest restaurant I've ever had the pleasure to dine in.

Mike <BR>On such a short visit, I would not go to Murano unless a serious purpose of your trip is to buy some significant pieces of glass. I did go to Murano, but on a longer trip and with some serious shopping in mind. In my opinion Murano has no intrinsic beauty. <BR>If you want to go to one of the lagoon islands, I personally loved Torcello because of its very old church and feeling of being a bit of a wilderness. Burano is more traditionally picturesque, more so than Torcello. <BR>I would advise you to spend most of your two days in the main part of Venice; you will barely scratch the surface as it is. Walk out to the Canareggio section--it is much less crowded, more of a real neighborhood, <BR>and the shops are less expensive than around San Marco.

I promise I'll come up with a suggestion tomorrow, Mike. I have to go now. <BR> <BR>For the moment, I'll fully agree with Jean if you concede yourself a splurge On top of the Europa&Regina :-) <BR> <BR>I couldn't also agree more with Elaine in every single word she put down: <BR>a) try hard to spend all your time on the main island; <BR>b) if you can't do without it, Burano/Torcello combo is way superior to Murano (a very hot island, no trees at all, no charm ... and unless you know of an address to find a specific piece of glass chances are you'll find something that pleases you in the main island at the same or lower price); <BR>c) I also love Cannaregio ... and the specific spot I love most is Campo dei Mori and Madonna dell'Orto, strolling down to and through the Jewish Ghetto! <BR> <BR>You're flying in from the UK I assume, so you should arrive very fresh :-) How are you going to transfer from the airport? Are you taking the Alilaguna boat, a private water taxi or does the Europa & Regina has its own service? <BR> <BR>Have you anything against attending at least part (some 20-25 minutes) of a Catholic Mass in the Basilica? <BR> <BR>Please write the word ombralunga in the text search window, leave the topic search window as is and hit the Find button ... you should retrieve the post "Venice: a bar tour - Ombralunga (long)". Go through it and let me know if this would be an option for a very singular experience ... <BR> <BR>Though one advocates that one has to get lost in Venice's quarters, from time to time one has to get back on track. To that effect, a detailed (1:5,000 is possible) map is essential (I like the Eurocity one from Geocenter, though it may fall appart after 3 trips or so :-( <BR> <BR>My strolling itinerary suggestion will consider going from one Campo (like Elaine explains) to the other. Which route to take from one to the other is unimportant ... but if one goes completely astray one will miss the opportunity to visit sites on one's way. <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR> <BR>

Paulo,I have not yet made any arrangement as to transport from the airport .Depending on the cost, I will try the hotel or perhaps slowly cruising in on a aquabus would be the best way to start a first visit to Venice?Mike

Yes, the best to be introduced to Venice is by sea. There's a Alilaguna acquabus departing the airport at 6:05pm, arriving in San Marco at 7:15pm. You should be able to make it (specially if you don't haved checked luggage). The next waterbus would be at 7:07pm :-(. The cost of the bus is Lit 17,000/person. From the landing stage, walk straight on Calle Valaresso and turn left at the first intersection. After you've crossed the canal (Rio di San Moise) turn left at the first intersection. The hotel is straight ahead. After checking in and stuff, you should be ready to start exploring at 8/8:30pm. <BR> <BR>More, later. <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR>

Thanks Paulo and Elaine, for all the good advices about Venice. I´ll be there in october, first trip to Italy. I booked Pensione Accademia (lucky!) - I loved all the good recomendations I´ve seen here in Fodors. But one question: I will be travelling alone - Accademia is far from San Marcos? It would be better stay near the piazza? I am concerned about walking back to hotel at night - I would like to stay for a while in the piazza at night. What do you think? I will be there for three days and nights.

Thanks Elaine and Paulo for all the good advices about Venice. I will be there in october, for three days and nights, and I have booked Pensione Accademia. I loved all the good recomendations about it here in the forum. One question: I will be traveling alone, first trip to Italy. I would like to be in the piazza San Marcos at night - but I am concerned about walking back to the hotel alone. Better stay in a hotel near the piazza? What do you think? Thanks!!

Shirlene, I stayed near San Marco last year, and if I had it to do over I would stay furthur away, where it is a little more peaceful. Accademia is a short vaporetto ride, and you will be safe enough doing it in the evening. At least in September there were always people around. I do think I would feel safer rider the vapporetto at night, rather than walking, just because its so easy to get lost.

I stayed at the pension Accademia and loved it. Wonderful location and easy to walk to the center of things, yet in a quiet location.

Shirlene: as Beth and Diane point out, you're in excellent shape. The 10-12 minute stroll from San Marco over the Accademia bridge to your hotel is perfectly safe at all times of the day. If you don't feel like walking you may always catch the vaporetto from the San Zaccaria to the Accademia stop. <BR> <BR>Mike: I normally advise people not to visit the San Marco sites (Basilica, Dodge's Palace, Campanille, Museo Correr, etc) on one's first day out. The reason is that once one can't avoid it anyway there's no reason to rush things. There's much more to the Piazza than visiting the sites. Once you've been to the Piazza a couple of times (normally late afternoon/evening) and one gets acquainted with it appreciating its beauty and details, then one's readdy to visit its sites. <BR> <BR>In your specif case, though, there are still certain unknowns (like will you indeed go for a trip to a lagoon island or do without it) that justify planning the Piazza for your first full day. <BR> <BR>I suggest you visit the Piazza once you've settled things at your hotel. Get a good look, stroll around, sit at a Caffé and listen a bit of music, watch people around, etc. For your 1st day I suggest you visit the Piazza once again first thing in the morning and then go for a stroll in Dorsoduro. In your 2nd day I suggest you stroll through some of Castello and Cannaregio. If you decide going for an island you'd be in position. Otherwise, you'd be able to explore some more of Cannaregio. The Grand Canal boat trip is short and in principle one should do it once during the day and once when it's dark. At night, you may or not decide going for a Grand Canal gondola ride instead. <BR> <BR>IMO, the best scheme for visiting San Marco sites is the following: <BR> <BR>The Basilica opens for the public at 9:30am (eventual huge lines outside). <BR>But there's a morning mass (8:30 to 9:15) that you may attend. Staying in front of the Basilica, look for an entrance on the left side and, if asked, say you want to attend the mass (You should enter the church before 8:45am). You won't be allowed to stroll inside. Take your seat and feel the power of the ambience inside the cathedral. After the mass, you get around 20 minutes with almost no people inside. This way, on one hand you avoid the eventual big queue outside and, on the other, you will be close to first for a visit to the Pala d'Oro and Treasury if you decide so. You may also go up to the Loggia dei Cavalli (access allowed with Marciano Museum ticket - left side door of atrium when leaving the church). <BR> <BR>You should be leaving the church around 10am, with plenty of time to visit the Palazzo Ducale (IMO a must). After the Palazzo I would stroll to the Rialto Bridge area, planning to seat for lunch around 1:00-1:20pm. I like the Trattoria alla Madonna for a full course seafood lunch (would never go there for dinner, though). The place is rather touristy nowadays (still remember the times that it was almost exclusively used by locals), crowded and loud, very lively, with waiters zipping by carrying orders ... I never had a disapointing lunch there in the 4 times we went. If you don't feel like a full course lunch, you may try the Pasticceria on Calle della Bissa off Campo San Bartolomeo. There you can "see" what you order. There are only a few high stools, though, and chances are that you may stand. Upstairs there's a small restaurant that is almost always empty. Good food, though the choices are limited, at very reasonable prices. <BR> <BR>More to follow ... <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

Wow! Who needs a guide book?Look forward to the next installment,as regards the lagoon trip,I have no definate plans and all options are open.Mike.

Oops ... I must be drunk! Above, read Rosticceria (in calle della Bissa) instead of Pasticceria (I take it you don't want cakes and pastries for lunch :-) <BR> <BR>Once you're interested in the Guggenheim collection, you should inform yourself at the hotel at which time it closes in the afternoon and play the following itinerary accordingly. I have it at 6pm but it may be open eventually till after that. You should be at the entrance not later than 1 hour before closure. <BR> <BR>Anyway, you should be set to take off around 2:30pm. My suggested itinerary is (before each denomination, insert "campo"): <BR> <BR>San Giacomo di Rialto (church) - San Aponal (church) - San Polo (church) - DEI FRARI (at least a short visit to the church is a must) - San Rocco (you won't have time to visit Tintoretto's temple) - San Pantalon (church) - SANTA MARGHERITA - dei Carmini (church) - San Barnaba (church) - DELLA CARITÁ (Accademia Gallery - no time) - San Vio - and Calle della Chiesa - Fondamenta San Cristoforo to the Guggenheim. <BR> <BR>You may get lost as you wish but get back on track to the Campi in capitals. As for 5 or so minutes visits to small churches in your strolling path, you should play it by ear, always having in mind that you'll eat up at least 30 minutes at the Frari church. <BR> <BR>More to follow ... <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR>

Thanks all for the help. I can´t wait for my trip now. And also for the itinerary - really good. Thinking about staying for 5 days instead of 3!:-))

Along the itinerary outlined above, I could list a number of restaurants, caffés and fancy stores. I won't do it though but for a couple, because you don't have time to go looking for specific addresses. Osteria da Fiore should be closed when you get there next week. Anyway, it's located on Calle Scaleter 2202 just off the top of Campo San Polo (towards Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio). The L'Incontro (very good Sardinian cuisine) is on Rio Terrá Canal 3062a, between the Campi Santa Margherita and San Barnaba. This should be open and if you care for you may peak in and make reservations for dinner. On calle del Traghetto, off Campo San Barnaba (to the right of the facade of the church), at #2793, there's the Galleria San Nicoló, with a collection of the finest contemporary glasswork on display, including outstanding works by Yoichi Ohira. <BR> <BR>Well, let's get back on track ... <BR> <BR>On exiting the Guggenheim, once you're at it, you may as well have a peak into the Sallute church (if it's still open). <BR> <BR>A remark seems in order at this time. All through Venice's "calli" and "campi" there are characteristic signs to the sites (Rialto, San Marco, I Frari, etc.). Once most visitors just stroll from site to site, this ends up in an array of throughways relatively crowded with people. If there's a crowd on your path, just get off to your left or right and take it from there. Chances are that here and there you'll hit a dead end (like a canal with no bridge over it) but that's what the fun is all about :-) <BR> <BR>Just a relatively small number of visitors make it to my preferred quarters in Dorsoduro because it's kinf of out of the way: Campo San Sebastiano towards Campo San Nicoló. In your case, there would be no time to stroll there and get to the Guggenheim at time. Anyway, should you decide to axe the Guggenheim here's an alternative to the path described in the previous post: <BR> <BR>When on Campo dei Carmini, instead of finding your way to Campo San Barnaba, cross the canal, take a left then a right and stroll along Fondamenta Rossa, Fondamenta dei Cereri, Fondamenta Madonna, Calle della Madonna, Rio Terrá dei Secchi and Calle Nuova Terese into Campo San Nicoló. From there, find your way to Campo San Sebastiano nearby. The church, burrial place of Paulo Veronese and with many of his paintings is outstanding. From there, cross the canal and take Calle d'Avogaria and Calle Lunga San Barnaba into Campo San Barnaba or, if you're tired, to the vaporetto stop in the Giudecca Canal. <BR> <BR>More to follow ... <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR>

Well, Mike ... "next week" + "a Tuesday" adds up to August 15th, one of the main holydays in Italy, with just about everybody that can afford it on vacations, at beaches, mountains, abroad or even at home. As a consequence, numerous restaurants, bars, caffés, small shops are closed (specially from today to next Sunday). Many bigger stores are open but either understaffed or with replacement staff that's not trained to provide a good service. <BR> <BR>You saked for an itinerary with lunch stopoffs. This would be possible but would also demand quite some time to single out what's open or closed ... and I'm feeling kind of lazy after our trip to Madrid :-) This is why I placed you anywhere between San Marco and Rialto at lunchtime for day 1. You'll certainly find open places. <BR> <BR>For day 2, things may not turn out that easy. I'll suggest a general area where there may be some places open but I won't bet my life on it. You should keep your eyes open and plot restaurants that are open on your itinerary. Eventually, you may trace your steps back for lunch or just go, once again, to the Strada Nuova and Rialto area. <BR> <BR>On day 2 I suggest you cross San Marco's Square and find your way through the Campi Sta. Maria Formosa, SS. Giovanni e Paolo (a visit inside the church is highly recommended), Sta. Maria Nova, SS. Apostoli, San Felice, then north to Campo Misericordia, Fondamenta della Misericordia (check if there aren't any restaurants open), Campo dei dei Mori and Campo Madonna dell'Orto (very nice church, visit recommended). <BR> <BR>The landing stage for departure to the lagoon for a visit to an island is on Fondamenta Nuove. Depending on which time you're set to leave Madonna dell'Orto, you may retrace your steps and have lunch somewhere in Fondamenta della Misericordia, go further south to Strada Nuova or take your chances in one of the non appealing bars on Fondamenta Nuove. <BR> <BR>In case you decide to axe Murano and/or Burano and Torcello, you should do a somewhat different itinerary. Just before hitting Campo SS. Apostoli, head to Campo dei Gesuiti and Fondamenta Nuove. Here you may decide hopping to the cemitery island of San Michele (beautiful, calm, church). Retrace your steps back and cross to Campo della Misericordia, Fondamenta Misericordia, Campo dei Mori, Campo Madonna dell'Orto and church, Campo San Alvise, Campo del Ghetto Nuovo and take your time to visit the Jewish Ghetto and some Sinagogues if you wish. From the Ghetto, you may catch a vaporetto at the Guglie landing stage or find your way to the main throughfare between the train station and Rialto (Rio Terrá San Leonardo, Calle Anconetta, etc. to Strada Nuova). Where to have lunch will depend if you decide to visit the San Michele island or not. <BR> <BR>Glad to answer any questions ... <BR> <BR>Paulo <BR> <BR>

Paulo <BR>I stand in awe. <BR>I don't even know my own home city <BR>in such detail as you know Venice, or at least I could not express it so precisely. <BR>Bravo!