Tuscany: Which town(s) to stay in if main priorities are wine & food?
 

I've already posted a similar question but I am still not clear so hoping more people will answer this topic :)

My husband and I will be visiting Tuscany, Piedmont, Umbria and Bologna from Sept 22- Oct 10th to celebrate our first wedding anniversary. Our main priority is food, wine and views. We are planning on staying 5 or 6 nights in Tuscany and I am certain I want to stay in either Montalcino or Montepulciano. Where I am confused is trying to decide on just staying in either of those towns OR staying 3 nights and then changing to the Chianti area for for 3 nights as well. We will do a day trip from Florence from Bologna and won't be visiting Siena. Is there a big difference in the regions where you feel we should really see both? So confused, please help!

Also, if anyone has a cooking class they would recommend that would be helpful too!

Hi,

For what it's worth, Siena was one of my favourite places to visit in Tuscany! It depends what are you are into.. I think the scenery around Siena is what many people imagine when they think of Tuscany (cyprus trees, hill towns, etc). I really like Florence -- but I think you are seeing it as a day trip in any event. It is like walking around a museum -- of interest especially if you like Renaissance art. But I didn't think the countryside around Florence is as pretty as that around Siena.

We had a great meal and cooking class at this winery in Chianti:
http://en.coltibuono.com/cooking-courses

The food at Vichiomaggio was also very good:
http://www.vicchiomaggio.it/eng/guid...-tastings.html

I think it's 1-2 hours driving time so whether you want to stay for 3 days around Chianti and then move further south depends on how much driving you want to do.

We stayed for a week in one place and did day trips but didn't mind driving up to 1.5 hours in a day.

Enjoy!

I'm definitely not the person to ask about a 3-night stay anywhere. I absolutely hate them. By the time you check-in, get unpacked, discover the lay of the land, find a great restaurant, it's time to get packed, check-out, and move on, only to repeat the pattern somewhere else. Just the thought of this style of travel is utterly exhausting to me.

IMO, the Montepulciano area is a better base for a 5-6 night stay. There's a lot to see and visit in a 30-minute radius in all directions. The food doesn't vary much in Tuscany, but there are plenty of good restaurants to choose from in and around Montepulciano. I also happen to find the Montepulciano/Val d'Orcia area more colorful.

The Montalcino area deserves a visit, but I tend to clump that area with a visit to Siena. There is so much to see and do between San Quirico d'Orcia and Montepulciano, you can eat up a week and still not see it all.

Some of the best places to stay around Montepulciano have their own terrific chef, and many offer cooking courses. The convenience can't be beat.

We spent a week in Montepulciano at the Locanda San Francesco, and I'd go back in a heartbeat. The hotel is only 4-5 rooms, so it may already be booked up for your dates. If you stay elsewhere in town, try to stop at San Francesco's wine bar one night. It had a really nice atmosphere. The hotel and bar are owned by a local couple, and they gave us good restaurant and wine suggestions.

We stayed near Castellina in Chianti for several days on a previous trip. Castellina is charming, and I like Chianti overall a lot. But I'd rather stay in Montepulciano.

Thank you for your input! I should have probably mentioned I have been to Siena and to Florence twice :)

For views (massive sweeping) and wine (Brunello!), Montalcino. I like Montepulciano, but I don't think the wine or views are as good.

FYI - They are close enough together it doesn't matter. You can drive to the other for lunch and wine or to Pienza, Monticcheillo, etc. which also have great views.

You have a tough choice. I think both areas are distinctive, offer great views,
wine and food. But, having said that I don't want a long drive after a wonderful meal with wine. If you stay in the Chianti region I highly recommend La Mole for lunch. Incredible views and food

Personally I prefer the views in Chianti more than the Val d'Orcia, but that may be because I have spent more time there.

On our most recent trip we ate at this restaurant in between Pienza and Montepulciano and loved it:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaura...a_Tuscany.html

Also another vote for ristoro di lamole near greve in chianti for the views and food.

Have fun!

I agree with what NYCFoodSnob said. Stay in Montepulciano or in the nearby countryside, Val d'Orcia or just outside of Pienza.

I like this place, located just outside of Pienza-

http://www.fontebertusi.it/en/

Yup, still confused lol If we just stay in Val d'Orcia and do day trips to the chianti region would we missing out?

I wouldn't worry about what you're missing by staying in one place or another. You're going to be missing things no matter where you stay. Tuscany is 9000 square miles.

<i><font color=#555555>"You're going to be missing things no matter where you stay."</font></i>

This is absolutely correct.

IMO, it's far smarter to pick Chianti or Val d'Orcia if you only have 5-6 nights. Attempting to do both will force you to spend an extraordinary amount of time in your car, and after an hour or two, the landscape will start to look as though it's repeating itself. Unless you're willing to start every day at 5:30 AM, you will limit what you can see during the peak hours when the postcard images present themselves. Some people think the views are incredible at high noon, so they don't care. However, photographers know that high noon is the worst view possible.

I love both Chianti and Val d'Orcia. I can't imagine picking a favorite. My advice is to pick one and plan a return visit. You won't regret this very rewarding plan.

Thanks, All! We have decided to stay in Val d'Orcia and come back. Debating to staying at either Salcheto Winehouse in Montepulciano or Podere Brizio in Montalcino. Now, I will look at Pienza haha. The advice is always much appreciated.

FWIW, I think the Podere Brizio looks more appealing, but you do realize that neither Podere Brizio nor Salcheto Winehouse are within walking distance of Montalcino and Montepulciano...? You'd have to drive and park. Be extremely careful about dinner wine + driving. Italy has tough drunk driving laws with very serious penalties.

Get ready for some beautiful countryside. You might wish to post your plans re car rental. And read this re driving:

http://driventoit.blogspot.com.au/

We've rented a car! I won't be driving and my husband is 6'2" and 180 pounds, we usually share a bottle of wine for dinner in Canada and he would be under the limit here for driving. I see that people keep commenting on being careful for drinking and driving and I am wondering how much people drink on these trips or how little can you drink without driving?

I thought it would be nicer to stay in the countryside... Do you recommend anywhere closer?

We've rented a car! I won't be driving and my husband is 6'2" and 180 pounds, we usually share a bottle of wine for dinner in Canada and he would be under the limit here for driving. I see that people keep commenting on being careful for drinking and driving and I am wondering how much people drink on these trips or how little can you drink without driving?

I thought it would be nicer to stay in the countryside... Do you recommend anywhere closer?

Sigh... I thought a 10 min drive to a restaurant wouldn't be a big deal. Now I am second guessing... So many places in the towns are already booked for our dates :(

Be aware that the blood alcohol limit in Italy is lower than in Canada. Add in dark, curvy, narrow and unfamiliar roads, wines that can have quite high alcohol content and cars that may not have the best headlights (we rented a Fiat 500 last year that had nearly worthless headlights). We have purposely stayed in town to avoid drinking and driving or on country properties where dinner was offered on site. For us, it's otherwise not worth the risk.

<i><font color=#555555>"I see that people keep commenting on being careful for drinking and driving and I am wondering how much people drink on these trips or how little can you drink without driving?"</font></i>

The more appropriate question: Who are <i>these</i> people?

The Italians taught me how to drink wine decades ago. I don't get intoxicated at dinner, ever, and I've never dined with an Italian who did. Driving after dinner in Italy is not a problem for me, so I can only imagine what <i>those</i> people do.

Some people get drunk by sniffing wine. Some Italians insist, if the wine is great quality, you will not get drunk if you drink it properly.

There are a lot of variables, but on the internet, you mostly hear from those who don't know how to drink or have low tolerances.

NYC FoodSnob, by these people I mean the ones who have been warning myself and others posting on forums to be extremely careful not to drive after eating.

I understand the dark curvy roads at night but I don't see how someone can get intoxicated off alcohol when you're eating pretty heavy meals.

Thanks guys! I think we will be okay staying only 10 minutes from town, we have wine at dinner all the time and my husband drives all the time without any issues (it may also because I drink 80% of the bottle lol).

Are there ride programs? How often are people getting pulled over and breathalyzed?

I'm sorry if this sounds rude, but is your only concerned getting caught? It shouldn't be.

There is a difference between intoxicated and impaired. You can be impaired long before you're intoxicated. But knock yourselves out if you're both so cock sure of your abilities.

>>>(it may also because I drink 80% of the bottle lol).<<<

Good plan. :D

I think people are just pointing out the laws are different there and the BA is probably lower than where you live.

That was my original point kybourbon, until NYCSN's arrogant post suggesting that it's merely a question of knowing how to drink. I think that's a gross oversimplification of how, when and why alcohol affects people. And I really dislike the implication that those of us who don't trust ourselves behind the wheel after a few drinks just don't know how to drink. That's ridiculous.

<i><font color=#555555>"until NYCSN's arrogant post suggesting that it's merely a question of knowing how to drink"</font></i>

I <b>never</b> suggested that. Another example of some forum stranger with an agenda twisting my words and calling me names. I said, "there are a lot of variables."

If you have a regular problem with alcohol, then you may need to deal with the problem if you drink in a foreign country.

If you don't know how to drink wine properly, and you're inclined to get drunk during a normal dinner, then driving at night with no street lights on the winding roads in Tuscany will be dangerous.

I've been driving after dinner in Tuscany for three decades. Typically, there aren't that many drivers on the road at night. Most night drivers are afraid of deer.

I've never seen anyone get stopped by a cop, let alone breathalyzed. I do know an Italian man who drove off the road once after lunch. Yes, he was exhausted, and he had too much too drink. He fell asleep at the wheel. I helped him out of his ditch.

If you're going to drink wine with dinner and drive, learn how to do it properly. Contrary to what you read on the internet, many people don't become "impaired."

I agree fully with NYCF's visit advice.

Drinking and driving is for dumb-asses. :-)

I know plenty of people who have been pulled over and "breathalyzed" here in Italy. The limit in Italy is 0.5 g/l. I believe that's lower than in any of the Canadian provinces.

Most people I know won't drink wine at all if they'll be driving. I do know some who drink wine at a meal and then drive.

I also have seen more than a few Italians who have had too much to drink at a meal, and I've seen more than a few arguments between spouses over whether the driver is fit. I've even seen a wife sequester the keys.

On the average, Italians are very moderate drinkers. When I lived in the US, the amount of wine I served to dinner guests was about twice as much as I serve here. Many Italians don't drink anything.

The limit here in B.C. is .05, I believe in the rest of Canada it is .08.

Thanks a lot for your input guys!

I still don't know if we should stay in Pienza, Montepluciano or Montalcino LOL I've been looking at hotels for like 10 hours and I keep flip flopping! Why is this so difficult?

Hi Ashley,

Did you see my suggestion above of staying at Fonte Bertusi? It's just 5 minutes outside of Pienza and 5 minutes to San Quirico d'Orcia. 20 minutes to Montepulciano and 30 to Montalcino. Probably as central as you can get to all of those towns. It's quick in and out with the car and you won't be searching for a parking spot- easier than staying in a town. You will be staying in a gorgeous spot. I've spent months in the area and wouldn't stay anywhere else. I guarantee you will love it.

The nearby (within walking distance) agriturismo La Fonte serves very good dinners each night. You don't have to stay there to eat there but do make dinner reservations.

anyone would think there are no taxis in Italy.

I've stayed in Montepulciano and Pienza and there are enough good restaurants for 5 evening meals in each

Ashley,
This may help http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/hs_planning.htm

Check out Terre di Nano

http://www.terredinano.com/index.asp?lang=eng

and I agree with palatino82 ~ La Porta in Montichiello is consistently excellent ~ a 5-10 min drive from Terre di Nano. We went there twice the first time we stayed at Terre di Nano, twice the second time we stayed at Terre di Nano, and will repeat again in 2017!

Zoecat- Yes! We really like it. We're having a tough time choosing between your recommendation and Salcheto Winehouse. They're so different and I know your recommendation will be more authentic and really give us the experience we're looking for but we're juts soo picky when it comes to hotel beds that it's hard to pass up the new, fluffy ones at Salcheto lol I've had some bad experiences in Italy with the stiffness and springs in my bed :(

Wrenwood- That looks beautiful too! It looks like they're booked up for our dates but I will email them. How are the beds there?

Definitely planning to go to La Porta and Osteria Acquacheta. They look amazing!! I can't wait :)

Dear Ashley,

I recommend you to visit Castelnuovo Berardenga, staying at Convito di Curina, is really a special place.

Look at this article and you will understand what I mean http://mytravelintuscany.com/giorgio...er-in-chianti/

Welcome to Fodors, Edoardo.

I imagine you are aware that Tuscan cuisine is based on peasant cooking. You will have your culinary experiences in Bologna and Piemonte.

Thank you Jean :)