Trip Report; TRSW's First Time In Italy!!
 

Okay, I have put it off long enough. My laundry that is. So while it is going I thought I would start my first ever trip report.

The trip didn't get off to the best of starts. First, I didn't get much sleep the night before. Then I slept through my alarm for 45 minutes. Luckily I had set it to go off 2 hours before the shuttle to the airport was due to arrive.

The shuttle arrives right on time and I am going to be the only passenger. I get to the airport, check in then proceed to security. It is here that I realise I have forgotten my jacket. This is bad news in the fact that all my restaurant recommendations are in the inside pocket of said jacket. I am just hoping that this not an omen of things to come.

The flight from Seattle to JFK is uneventful. I have a 4 hour layover. After what seemed more like 10 hours(must have been the anticipation to get to Venice)we board the plane, where we sit at the gate for another hour waiting for a plane from Washington DC to arrive with 40 passengers headed to Venice for a cruise.(another omen?)

We finally take off an hour and 25 minutes late. The flight is loooong and boring. I get maybe a half hour sleep at best. When I wake up I can see mountain tops peeking through the clouds up ahead. When we fly over the mountains the view is spectacular.

We arrive in Venice at 11am, an hour and 10 minutes late. I head out to find the alilaguna. I hop on and head for Venice. It takes almost an hour and a half to reach San Marco. Next time I am going to splurge and take a water taxi. Guess it had to do with the fact that I had basically been up now for nearly 24 hours and needed a shower badly.

Got to flip the laundry. Next, getting lost in Venice.

Good morning Tom, I am so sorry about all the problems getting to Venice, but I am eagerly awaiting more of your trip report! And you started the laundry, good for you!!

Nice to see you back, Tom. My wife and I enjoyed meeting you and our GTG at the der Pallaro in Rome!

Tom??? How is that laundry doing? Waiting for more of your report, LOL.

Hi Tom,

Looking forward to more.

((I))

Hi Tom,

Is the laundry finished yet? ;-)

No pressure, but we want more. Sometimes those early bumps and hurdles in a trip make for smooth sailing the rest of the time.

Tom, even Iàm checking in waiting for more... laundry can,t take that long! LOL.

In Milan hotel... leaving in the AM... much appreciate you sending the dinner pics, I havenàt heard from Lutz and Adelaide yet with their pics.

(for Fodorite info, Tom, I and the afore mentioned people had dinner - a wonderful dinner - at Il Latini in Florence!)

I wish we had spent more evenings together Tom - I hope Rome was as wonderful! My Dad is better, is almost conscious as of today... fondly, Travelphile (Kristy)

PS - We also cheaped out on Alilaguna, why didn't we listen???? SUCKED - the water taxi is SO worth the extra euros... :)

Okay, okay..I was doing more than just laundry. Can't seem to stop working on the photos.LOL

About getting lost in Venice, well this will happen in every city. Seems that my sense of direction and map reading skills are right up there with my Italian. Lord knows I tried to learn it! Guess I killed too many brain cells in my youth! LOL

Anyways, I get off at the San Marco stop. Turns out to be one stop too soon. I should have gotten off at the Arsenal stop.

But I am glad that I did get off San Marco because as I said on another thread yesterday, if I had any doubts about canceling the tour and going solo, they were put to rest right then and there. I see four different tour groups of about 40-50 people following the guides with the umbrellas, and there were not a whole lot of smiling faces.

So I am off to find the Hotel Corte Contarina which is off Via Giuseppe Garibaldi which I find with ease. I mean, how can you miss it, it is the widest street in Venice! Then I make a left, another left and can't find the hotel. There is no sign on any of the doors. Had I looked down at the doormat next to me, I would have noticed that I was Standing right in front of the hotel.

I am greeted at the desk by Moro, a very nice man. I give him my name and he tells me there is a problem. The hotel is overbooked(omen # three?), but they are putting me up in their apartment about a block and a half away.

Moro helps me with my bags and we head on over to the apartment. So we climb the 71 steps(yes I counted)up and he lets me in. This place is even bigger than my apartment back home. It has three skylights, a queen size bed and a kitchen.

I get settled in, take a long hot shower, then head back down in the direction of San Marco. As I am taking in the scenery on my walk, I have the first, of what will happen at least once everyday on my trip, moments of "is this really happening, am I really here". Man, what a GREAT feeling!!

Although it is 3pm, there is still a huge line to get into the Basilica. But I notice that there is no line to get into the Campanile. I decide to take advantage of this and go to the top. I have heard people talk about the view and seen pictures. But they do not do it justice. It is a clear and sunny day and you can see for miles. The view is just breathtaking(moment # 2).

I spend about 45 minutes up at the top taking pictures and just admiring the city. I then head out to just walk around all the side streets and explore. I come across a little shop on corner with tons of sandwiches and pizzas in the display case. I grab one with prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato, a bottle of water and go back to wandering the streets. I have to admit, that after eating nothing but airline or airport food in the last 27 hours, this is a slice of heaven.

After I finish the panini, I go into the first gelato place I see(remember, all my food notes are in my jacket back in Seattle)This will be the first time I have ever had gelato. I order cup of the tiaramisu flavor. Now I see why everybody goes on and on about gelato!! It is out of this world!!

By now it is getting close to sunset, so I head back towards San Marco and even though I am only going to be in Venice for two nights, I buy the three day vappereto pass. I hop on the # 1 and am lucky enough to grab a seat up front. I ride it all the way to the end, snapping pictures all along the way. Get off, then right back on and get off at the Rialto stop.

I check out some of the shops on the bridge. I have been given the task of finding THE perfect Murano glass paperweight for a friends mother. I see many nice ones, but remembering Ira's advice, I do not make this major purchase in a sleep deprived state of mind. But I do find the t shirts some folks have asked me to get them. I also buy the first, of what will turn out to be 46, postcards that I will mail back to the states.

I leave the Rialto and go off exploring more. By now the sun has set and I have no idea as to where I am. I am loving every minute of this. The lack of sleep is starting to hit me, but so is an intense hunger.

Once I get my bearings I head off in the direction of the hotel, all the while reading all the menus along the way. I just cant make up my mind. Eventualy I am back at the corner of Via Giuseppe Garibaldi and Riva Dei Sette Martini.

I grab an outside table at La Nuova Perla. I had the spaghetti with white clam sauce, veal cutlets in a lemon sauce, a half liter of the hose white and a plain chocolate gelato for desert for 33 euro. A very tasty and satisfying dinner to end my first night in Venice.

I get back to the apartment, write out some postcards, and after being up for for nearly 35 hours go to bed for some much need sleep.

Tomorrow...The Doges Palace

sssteve - If you like, I will email you the photos from the dinner. I enjoyed meeting you too. Dinner was great.

travelphile - Good to hear you got the pictures and that your dad is doing okay. That was a great time at Il Latini. And Rome was great!! But more on that later in the report.

Tom

Tom,

Can't wait to hear more. I'm a fellow Seattlite and am loving every word of this!

Paula

Hello Tom, I am so enjoying about your visit in Italy. And of course you know how much I loved all of your photos of Venice. Like I told you, they are breathtaking!

I am so sorry you forgot your jacket along with all the restaurant recommendations. Since the time I forgot my passport I have everything in the entry by the front door two nights before my flight. The last day before a trip gets so confusing. And like you I never really sleep the night before a flight.

I hope you had another jacket with you, or maybe it wasn't cold?

And did you get all of the laundry done, LOL!

I am sure looking forward to more trip reports. Your dinner the first night in Venice sounds sooo delicious. I too always stay up until night time when I arrive in Italy. Hope you had a good first nights sleep. Sleep well tonight.

Here is a link to my photo album from Venice.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePh...favorites=true

Sorry it is so long

LoveItaly - No I didn't have another jacket with me and it wouldn't be an issue until my last full day in Florence. More on that later. Tom

Tom - I used your link & got a message from Kodak saying the link is no longer valid. Loving the report & can't wait to see the photos. I know how long you were awaiting this trip.

TOM -

Check out my post on Slowtravel. I posted the pic you took outside the restaurant with Momma holding her Rick Steves guidebook!!

Venice - Day 2

I woke up at about 7am after about 7 hours of sleep. Surprisingly I felt quite refreshed. I head over to the hotel for breakfast. Nothing fancy, but the cappuccino was excellent. The perfect way to start the day.

I have reservations today for the Secret Itineraries Tour of the Doges Palace at 9:55am. As I set out from the hotel I get a glimpse of the true Venice. I see the parents walking hand in hand with their kids on the way to school. The owner of the produce stand setting up for the day. Friends and neighbors saying hello. Totally serene(moment # 1).

As I get to the end the end of Via Garibaldi there is a very light misty like fog which makes for some great photographs. Like the one with the Campanile in the distant background and the man fishing off to the right in the foreground.

I make my way down towards Piazza San Marco. I come upon the dock with all the gondolas covered in blue tarps. yet another photo op. It is here that I recheck my reservations for the tour. I get to the part on the conformation page that says you must present the credit card with which you paid with. To my horror this is not the card I brought with me today. So I have 45 minutes to go back to the apartment to get the right card and make it back. I make it back to the Palace with 10 minutes to spare.

Now for anyone who is considering taking this tour, I highly recommend it. It is truly fascinating. Especially the story of Casanovas escape from the prison cell. While we are in one of the offices, the guide has us take a close look at the doors and how, when they are open, the bottom of the door does not meet the floor. But when it is closed it is almost sealed. Seems that the Doges had used the ship makers from the Arsenal build the offices. This also explains the railings and the gates in the office. They look like the inside of a ship.

Then it clicks, at first I thought the inside of the apartment looked like a log cabin. When in fact it is an upside down hull of a ship!!

We are then taken into the attics of the palace. This is where Casanova was brought so he could exercise. up here also are display cases full of swords, spears and armor. Seems to me to be an odd place for these.

After the tour we are free to tour the rest of the Palace. The Palace is just amazing. And the paintings are just intense(not to mention HUGE)The room that really gets my interest is the one with the fierce Naval battles. To quote Monty Python, "I don't know much about art, but I know what I like" LOL

After I leave the Palace the line to get into the Basilica is just way too long to stand in. So off for more exploring(and getting lost).

I make my way through the maze of streets and alleys and happen upon Campo Santo Stefano. As I enter the square there are two things that immediately grab my attention. First, there is an elderly gentleman who is singing opera tunes. He has an outstanding voice and range. Second are of course, the giant heads on the ground. Can someone please explain these to me? I can't find any mention of them in my guide books.

I decide to have lunch here at an outdoor cafe. Just a sandwich and a glass of wine. Followed of course with gelato, this time a mixture of raspberry and lemon. All around me there is no English spoken. Either Italian or German. This is where I have "the moment" again. Seated at the table next to me is an elderly, robust man who seems to be the areas favorite "uncle". Everybody comes up and talks to him and all the children give him a hug.

After lunch I cross the Academia bridge and go off exploring once more. I must say that just walking around in Venice is just a blast.

After a couple hours of just walking around, I make my way back to the Rialto to make the major purchase of the day. After doing some heavy damage on the credit card I head back towards the Basilica. I am surprised that there is no line and head on in.

All I can say is, WOW!! I even pay the extra fee to see the Golden Alter. The detail is amazing! Mind you I am not a very religious person, but the Basilica blows me away(this will happen more than once on my trip).

After the Basilica I decide to go back to the apartment to drop off the purchases of the day. But instead I am intrigued(like a moth) by this giant blue flame looking thing off in the distance where they are holding some of the Biennale exhibits. I wander down and discover a park like area. It is full of trees and there is even a daycare center complete with a playground. I spend a little time checking the area out and of course, taking pictures.

I head back to the apartment and as I am walking down Via Garibaldi I hear, blaring from a music/video store, a blast from the past, "Rappers Delight". Never in a million years would I have expected this.

I drop off the gifts, write out some more postcards and freshen up for dinner. I head out and stop off at an internet cafe to check and send off a few emails.

Once again I read the menus and can't decide where to have dinner. I decide to try Ritirare Ricevuta Alla Cassa(sp?) It is on the waterfront about halfway between my apartment and Piazza San Marco. I start with the Antipasto Pesce Misto. Nice big portions of seafood. To my surprise, the octopus is very very tasty!! I move on to the Tagliatelle Panna Procuitto. Then Cosica Pollo Forno. All very good, and with a half liter of the house white(I am not a big fan of red wine, but this going to soon change)for 44 euro.

As this is my last night in Venice, I head back to Piazza San Marco to check out the dueling orchestras. This is such a blast!!

Some people have said to grab a glass of wine and sit at a table and take this in. I choose to get a limoncello at the shop on the corner and move from which ever orchestra was playing at the time. Alot of people seem to be doing this. It is also at that this time I decide to run up the cell phone bill from hell!! I call everybody, and I mean everybody, in my phonebook and say hi!! They all tell me they hate me, but please at least send them a postcard! LOL

Time to call it a night.Tomorrow I am off for Florence.

Tom

cobbie - I just tried the link and it worked fine. Did you use capitals for the B&P in the "BrowsePhotos.jsp" section? Also that is a zereo not an o after the _order=part.

If you still can't make work plese feel to email me at [email protected]

I can't get through to your photographs either; I get the Kodak Gallery page asking me to sign in, and
I'm not a member.

Hi Eloise, you don't have to pay anthing to be a member of Kodax. Just put in your email address and than a password. Be sure to record your password somewhere..the first time I did this I didn't record it and couldn't remember it a month later.

I have friends that send me emails with photos from Kodax. With your email address and password you can access all Kodax photos when you have the correct address. Tom just explained his. I hope you can view them, they are truly beautiful. You will feel like you are in Venice. I hope you can access them now also Cobbie.

Try again for the photos - I got that link error message too, but then it worked (I had a password already) The photos are great - you'll see the blue tarped gondolas that he talked about etc.

BUT - Tom, you didn't call ME! OR postcard me! And you didn't even EMAIL ME until Florence.

My lip is way out in a great big pout. Guess I know how I rate.

But I am sorry you left your jacket at home....after you had done ALL THAT RESEARCH!

Carol

I've logged in to Kodak too. But it says "album not found". Please help! I can't wait to see your photos.

Same problem as

Ooops! Same problem as JeanneB!

First off, I am sorry everybody that the link doesn't work. If you email me I will send out invitations so you can get in.

Carol - Is there anything I can do to make it up to you? I just didn't have your phone number programed into my cell phone.

Well, yes, Tom, actually there is.

Post the next part of your trip just as soon as you can. This is great reading and I needed a positive read after wading through a bunch of posts I had missed.

Can't wait to get the next installment! NOW! NOW!

(I was just messing with you, Tom - you know my weird sense of humor!)

Day 3 Venice/Florence

The plan was to get up early and watch the sun come up over the city. Sorry to say, it didn't happen. I slept until 7. Packed my bags and went over to the hotel for breakfast.

Since my train for Florence wasn't leaving until 10:30, I decide to take the #1 to the station so I can cruise the Grand Canal one last time. When I get there, there are about 10 police officers milling around the entrance and they all have riot helmets attached to their belts. I never did find out what it was all about.

My only regret is that I didn't have at least one more day in Venice. I feel like I just scratched the surface of this beautiful city!!

The train ride to Florence was nice, especially the scenery as we got closer to Florence. I find my hotel, Pensione Ferretti with ease. After I get settled in, I head out to find the Duomo. I had mentioned on this board months ago that the Duomo was THE one thing in all of Italy that I wanted to see the most.

So with map in hand, I somehow end up at Piazza Signoria. Go figure. I eventually find the Duomo and make the long climb to the top. On the way up there is a spot where you come out of the stairwell and walk around the inside the dome. The mosaics are just phenomenal. But the view the city and the countryside from the outside is even more breathtaking. They make the climb more than worth it.

After climbing back down, I just start to explore the city for a couple of hours. I have read posts here that some people find Florence dirty and noisy. I just didn't see it that way. After wandering around I head back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

I am given a recommendation by Susy, one of the Pensione owners, to try Ostiria Belle Donne just down the street. When I get there about 8 the place is already packed. They only have a table outside left that I take.

I order the antipasti plate of Tuscan meats and crostinis. This is followed by cheese ravioli in a meat suace and an order of meatballs in a pinenut sauce. All this with a 1/2 liter of the house red, bread and water for 23 euro. Very large portions and all very tasty.

After dinner I just walk the city and take it all in. I go over to the Ponte Vecchio and there are some street musicians playing. I hang out there for awhile then head back to the hotel and call it a night.

Tomorrow - Museum day.

Tom, I'm really enjoying your report. I had to laugh when you said that you intended to get up early but "slept in" until 7:00. Getting up at 7:00 would be very early for me! (Can you tell I'm not a morning person?) Looking forward to more.

Tom, you are bringing Florence to life for me. I can hardly wait for June so that I can experience it myself. It is the way I picture it. Washington seems a little uninteresting, right now. Thanks

Hey Tom, this is Jerry. I'm sooo glad you enjoyed your trip, especially after cancelling the tour. I told you you would enjoy it immensely.
The pictures you sent me were great; glad you made the switch to digital. Are you planning your return yet?

Tom, thanks for the pictures! They're making my mouth water. We'll be there in January...can't wait. Please carry on!

Susan P - I am not a morning person either. Unfortunately I head back to work tomorrow and they have put on the breakfast shift which means that I have to get up at 5:30! OUCH!!

viaggio_sempre - I hope June comes fast for you. You are going to love Florence.

Jerry - You were right about canceling the tour and yes, the digital camera too. And yes I am planning the next trip already for sometime in 2007, hopefully with my sisters for a part of it.

JeanneB - Glad to hear you finally got your 'key'. I just sent out the Florence album, I hope you like them.

Tom

Just anote to those of you that I sent the Florence photo album to. There is a flaw that I dont know how it happened. Seems like some of the pictures did not transfer.

In the meantime, if you click on the little blue boxes that appear under the first picture, you can pull the ones that did make it through one at a time.

I will be fixing the album and continue my report after work today(my first day back, and I dont want to go)

Sorry

Tom

Thanks! I was wondering if it was just me.

Hope your first day back to work is a good one.

Can't wait for more of your trip report and pics!

I can't get the pictures either; I am signed in, but the link is no longer active. When I posted pictures on Kodakgallery I shared the album with myself, got an e-mail sent to me with the link to the album and posted that link on the message board. In the e-mail there will be a picture of your album to click on, but there will also be a link you can copy and paste to access the album. This is what I shared.

TRSW

Glad you saw the magic of Florece that many miss. (I love Osteria Bella Donne.)

enjoying your report

Hi Tom,
I am SOOOOOOOOOO enjoying your trip report. There is something about a trip report written by someone that has never been to that particular destination before that is so appealing to me.

<"is this really happening, am I really here".>

This quote of yours said it all. I can't wait to read more!

:) Tiff

Hi Tom,

Tom...great report.

As someone who thoroughly enjoyed a three week trip to Italy recently, it is nice to read another trip report about Italy that has upbeat and positive comments, instead of harping on negative upon negative.

Your report proves (again) that a good attitude means that a few minor inconveniences along the way are just that...minor.

By the way, loved the line about the "Dueling Orchestras." Venice at night is Magicland.

I'll look forward to more of your report.
((H))

Day 4 - Florence

Once again I wake up at 7. This time it is due to the fact that it seems like EVERY church bell in the city is ringing. I prefer this to my regular alarm clock any day! I go down the hall to the shared bathroom. Seems like I am the first to use the shower today. What is with the small showers in Italy? Being slightly "girthly challenged" it is like standing in a coat closet. At least the water was hot and the pressure was strong.

After the shower I head to the breakfast room. The food is basic, rolls, cereal etc. The coffee is nice and strong. But here is whatI really liked, not just orange juice, but blood orange juice! Very very tasty. During breakfast I meet three other solo travelers and we all decide to have dinner together tonight.

Thanks to Luciano and Susy, the owners of the Pensione, I have reservations for both the Uffizi and the Academia today. And it is a good thing that I do. When I get there about a half hour before my slot, the end of the line is nowhere to be seen.

I decide to get the audioguide to help me understand what I am looking at. I must admit it helped somewhat, but it is kind of hit and miss. It was very interesting to watch how the art progressed through time. Then I enter the Botticelli room. All I can say is WOW!!! I had seen most of these works in books but had no idea just how large they were. Just amazing!! I spend about 2 hours here.

After leaving I decide it is time for my first pizza while in Italy. I find a little outdoor spot near the Duomo. I order one with spicy ham and tomatoes and a glass of wine. All for 6 euro. It was good, the ham was just spicy enough to give it a kick.

After lunch I still have 2 more hours until my resevations for the Academia so I head over to the San Lorenzo markets. I have never seen so many leather goods in one place in my life!

With about an hour until my reservation, I decide to head towards the Academia. I suprise myself and actualy find it right away without getting lost. There is no line what soever so I head on in and just buy a ticket.

I see 'David' up ahead of me but I am intigued by the statues leading up to him. To me they look a little like plaster casts of people. Very unusual and very fascinating.

I move on and have "the moment". It is just so hard to believe this great work of art was once just a block of marble!! The details are just amazing! I take a seat and marvel at it and try to figure out what inspired Michelangelo to create this.

After about 20 minutes I move on and tour the rest of the museum. When I am done I am thoroughly 'arted' out for the day. I head back to the hotel and use their computer for a bit then get ready for the group dinner.

Next - Making new friends

Keep the great report coming, TRSW. I love Florence and really enjoyed the description of your experiences there. I can really relate to what you describe as "moments," because I have them too. Those moments become my most treasured memories.

Day 4 - Florence part 2

Like I said, at breakfast I met three other people traveling solo. Pat and Bob are from Australia and both are on the tail end of eight weeks in Italy. Bob got in from Rome and Pat had just spent the last four weeks in Tuscany taking Italian and cooking lessons(I hate her LOL). The third is Cheryl, a young lady from Boston who is staying in Florence for a month(I hate her too LOL) doing some writing.

At 7:30 we all meet up in the breakfast room to pick a place to eat. We decide to just go down to Osteria Belle Donne. I had dinner there the night before and liked the food and was actually Cheryl's regular spot. We grab an outside table and settle in.

To be honest I really don't remember what I had for dinner. We all were just having a good time getting to know each other when a strolling accordion player stops by and starts playing. Well Pat has just got to have her picture taken with him. I am chosen to do this with her camera (for some strange reason this is the only time I don't have my camera with me, oh the shame LOL)

We spend about two hours here and all decide to call it a night and head back to the hotel. A very nice way to end my second day in Florence.