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Thank you for a truly delightful and exciting report thus far.
Your ability to capture the essence of the places you enjoy 'wandering' in, is something very special. This is a trip report to re read many times, to ponder over and to hope for such special times on our own journeys ahead. Again: thank you. |
I have loved every second of your trip report and am sorry to have you leave Switzerland. Your photos (as usual!) are superb. And the ones of Sils Maria are no exception.
Yes - the streets are quieter than I am used to seeing but since I have almost always been then in September (to play golf...) and in winter (to walk on the lakes and see the polo) it is not surprising that there are fewer around. That will all change when the schools get out in 2 weeks time. Then there will be a lot of Swiss and Germans in Sils Maria. Few "anglos" - at least in my experience. And yes - Corvatch accepts the HFC but none of the other lifts. All the hotels in Sils Maria offer the Engadin card and most of them add the Bregaglia extension to it. That, considering the location, is wonderful. |
Adelaidean - I'm working on the Domodosolla portion of our trip, trying to get a handle on what's on offer. As Stresa is only 27 minutes away by train, we're planning a day trip there. I see that there is a hop-on-hop off ferry of the Borromean Islands, but after reading your installment on your ferry day, it seems hitting all three islands might be a bit of a stretch. Did you enjoy one of the two islands you visited more than the other?
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Mel, we only visited 1 of the Borromean islands, Isola Madre, which I enjoyed. Gardens and villa, it’s quite substantial.
The other island we visited was on Lake Orta. Leaving Switzerland - Day 27 : Sils Maria to Bressanone Bus to St Moritz then train to Zernez, bus to Mals (I have done a full loop of this during our 2019 Scuol trip, visiting Müstair St John and the fully walled town of Glurns), we then travelled on via Merano to Bressanone. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4b877a3b.jpeg It’s a beautiful journey, passing those Engadine villages, and the Postbus ride over the Ofenpass and the villages of Val Müstair. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5de60da94.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3d99af73.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e9babedc.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8add4303b.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0ced8f23.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c9283d9bd.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...13583066e3.jpg I’ve stayed in Bressanone in 2019 with my mother, love this town, so opted to include on our way to Corvara. The bus from Mals was uncomfortable though, no trains on weekend at the moment so over busy, hot and crowded. Totally packed in and passengers en route denied boarding. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72938a0c87.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...915d3bf650.jpgSurvived that ordeal by chatting to neighbouring passengers (given we were ‘very close’ to each other) and an older couple ask me about the stops on this route in German, so we are talking and they have been to Australia 4 times, and hired a caravan in Adelaide travelled through the centre), then Swiss woman next to her joins in, yes, she’s been to Adelaide too, and young local woman seated alongside let’s me know what’s going on (in excellent, but unpractised English) as we pass through towns (“this is Forst, they make beer here”) so lots of banter kept the journey tolerable. We are staying in a family owned hotel that was once part of the monastery here, the current owner’s grandfather purchased the surplus accommodation (initially for monks) building and it’s now a charming hotel with a gorgeous garden and our room overlooks the convent garden. The current owner (granddaughter) has purchased part of the convent apple orchard, so her garden will be larger in coming years. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61871b9eb.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d22aadee.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ea0d9e8d5.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f81d623df.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2328e43e5.jpeg Convent next door https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e0d73bcfb.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...30a1950f8.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd0009fb9.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce13d3e5c.jpeg the historic centre : https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...271fb69bc.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c7096a15.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...827ea438f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aee6ef874.jpegI booked half board, so dinner was at the Restaurant Traubewirt, many excellent regional choices, I craved dumplings. Delicious. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16227aa231.jpg apple strudel for dessert https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4d9926baa2.jpg Longer dinner than expected, as couple next to us (English and German, live in Frankfurt) are doing a cycling holiday, so chat/ chat/ chat and nearly missed blue hour.. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9fb97907f.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...26e393502.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cbada99ec.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9f4f206d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e89a5a0be.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ae162a39.jpeg last time we visited Bolzano, for the Ötzi museum, fabulously done. And we have stayed in Trento, another recommended visit. Lots to see and enjoy here, it’s a beautiful region, beautiful town. |
Thanks Adelaidean.
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Wonderful pics, the monastery setting conjures up images of Meteora!
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Mel - I have visited all three Borromean Islands in one day and it is perfectly feasible. I was travelling with my Godson's mother and we were staying in Ghiffa. We went to the Villa Taranto and parked the car. Got a day pass on the boats and headed for the Isola Bella. Visited the château (more for its gardens than the building itself which used to be the home of the Dukes of Borremeo). Then went to the Isola dei Pescatori. We had lunch there. Not a whole lot to see there but the lunch (fish of course) was good! After which we went to the Isola Madre to see the Botanical gardens. We could have spent more time there I suppose. It was lovely. But both of us had been there before (when the rhododendrons and azealas were in flower...). Ended up back at the car and went to Intra for a gelato. It was a busy but wonderful day. Next day we went back to the Villa Taranto and spent most of that day in the gardens. They are superb. And huge. Granny didn't like the hills (she was almost 90 at the time!) but I didn't mind at all.
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Thanks for that Hambagahle. Our choice might be easy in October, when I suspect less is in bloom.
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Mel - I think Adelaidean would agree with me - don't miss the Isola Madre!
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ahhhh, your photos of Sils Maria, as always, wonderful!!
Brixen looks lovely!! Gorgeous Kloster in a stunning setting! lol, am looking at train connections from Garmisch! s |
This TR gives me FOMO.
Fortunately will be departing in 3-4 weeks, destinations include Stresa and Lugano. LOVE the SBB app, you can do impromptu trips. One time I returned to Zurich from Engadine on a sunny afternoon and saw how beautiful Lake Zurich was so after I checked into the hotel, I strolled to the lake and bought ferry tickets on the app right then and there, cruised for about an hour and then found a train back to Zurich. I’m usually an overplanner but you sometimes see something and can go visit. Or check schedules in real time to see when the next departures were based on your location and just book it right there, get on the train or ferry or bus. |
That's a lot of money for a cough! lol
Love your pictures. You can see the Odle Group far off in the distance in the picture of the farmer making hay. Beautiful buildings and towns, beautiful monastary. And yes, it does remind one a bit of Meteora. |
So many beautiful places to see and explore. What a lovely way to travel. I have enjoyed opening up your report with my cup of coffee every morning. Enjoy the rest of your trip.
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Thanks for reading!
Day 29 : Bressanone Stayed local today, a long slow breakfast and a wander to ticket office to assist my purchase of train tickets next week. Very helpful staff for transport queries, and nearby TI also fantastic. Strolled the historic Stufels area, and the old town, the cathedral square, the various churches and cloisters, the Hofburg museum, the Herrengarten garden - revisits for me, new to DH. Lots of small stores, with regional products, hiking clothes and fashion, and found a great Despar grocery nearby. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b220024ce.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61c6fe504.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5d17a7dba.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b1a3e357.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...779147cfc.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa6aaa033.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e411fde2c.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fac950725.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b59f77652.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85f450d77.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2dca842e0.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...497e0fd9c.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db6688670.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2c443ecc3.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2472ac18b.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a570bf8c6.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1cbc73ae2.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f75335a95.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bdf3270b0.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0bb76d061.jpeg Bishop’s Palace - Diocesan museum https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7b6c000c.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b98e753b.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5a776ac6.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8993098eb.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c70205872.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e57ef5c64.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...033ee51d6.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce353a30f.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2397371b.jpeg Last few shots of the old town https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2788bac1.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68a6f2319.jpeg |
Day 30:
Bressanone to Corvara (val Badia) Italy https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c7922962.jpeg A quick 90 minute bus journey, Bressanone to San Lorenzen, then connect with bus to Corvara. The Sud Tirol Mobil App is excellent for planning, can pay cash on the bus. We used our Brixen guest card for the journey. Corvara is quite busy with traffic and roadworks, it’s on a junction and most hotels run up and down the main street. We were meeting my cousin here, so a bit of a reunion, with a planning session, then a walk to Colfosco to get my bearings. Gorgeous. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d7ad52fe.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c1173666.jpeg Sassongher https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3bf426ff9.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1906e3ca5.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...580fb5018.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcee70bd7.jpeg the Borest lifts to Colfosco, an easy walk though https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...63eb22f2e.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...904eefedd.jpeg More lifts at Colfosco I chose this town because of access to cablecars (check seasonal open times) - we previously stayed in val Gardena for a week and val Pusteria for 8 nights, the bus system is great, the food suits us, the landscape is surreal. The villages of val Badia are Corvara, Colfosco, San Cassiano, La Villa, Badia and La Val. Be aware listed with Italian, German and Ladin names: Colfosco (in Italian) Calfosch in Ladin and Kolfuschg (in German) La Valle (in Italian) is La Val (in Ladin) and Wengen (in German) La Villa (Italian) La Ila (in Ladin) or Stern (in German). We booked half board, and are needing to eat lighter - so pleased to have a salad buffet, and while I had barley soup and a trout/ potato salad/ horseradish cream main and declined dessert, the server offered me gelati or fresh fruit as an alternative - so had delicious apricots and peach instead. Most half board hotels provide the dinner menu with several choices for each course at breakfast and you select your preference then. |
What a great, great place to reunite with a cuz!
I can just smell the fresh air, Ade. I am done. the jack-in-the-green |
Absolutely stunning! Can't wait to see and hear more about Corvara!
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Day 31 : Corvara, Italy
Bought a 3 day lift pass (can use in 3 of 4 days at €66 each) Today’s walk - the Armentara meadows walk from Badia, great photos here https://www.andrewswalks.co.uk/armentara.html Took bus to Badia, and the La Crusc chairlifts https://www.santa-croce.it/prices-and-tickets/ Walked to Sante Croce to walk the Armentara meadows via Ranch de Andre for a refreshing Holunderschorle drink and kaiserschmarrn sugar fix (shredded pancake) and return to Badia. This is described as an ‘easy’ walk, but we were pooped, it was 27C but seemed really hot, no breeze, and the descent down to Badia seemed to go on forever). It was about 10 km total, I think. But, stunning….my photos don’t do it justice… https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70364e029.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9ba869bf1.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5261052c1.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...85f700c4d.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ad86d81fe.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2298253f1.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e03f9b64.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f413ee083.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4959193b7.jpeg It was a long walk down to Badia (centre of photo)… https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4ad2ce551.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c47c550a8.jpeg Arriving Badia |
27C is a bit warm to be hiking around, maybe looks humid too?
But, simply, wow! |
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