Still going strong, dln. Looking forward to more!

Hi dln,
This is a great report!! Love your writing. Makes me want to go back to Rome right now. Think I am going to print this and refer to it for my trip to the Naples and Amalfi coast.

Great report my dear dln..You sure know how to express your feelings in such enthusiastic way..

By the way your style of writing is so much similar to ohblondie ....Are you pulling our legs, so to speak dln?:):)

my guess too, kismet. And only a brunette would call herself blondie(another guess)

I think dln has a different style of writing and this sounds much less fictionalized ( or at least fictionalized sounding).

Just curious - Why in the world would only a brunette call herself blondie?
Does that mean I should call myself a brunette ~

You gals crack me up (but I'm sure glad you're reading my story)!!! I'm not anything but dln. Ohblondie uses less paragraphs than me! By the way, my mother reads Fodors and she's convinced ohblondie is lucy.

More to come, the story of how I got cameo earrings in Naples...

Hi Scarlett, you are so right, mine is "our story" not a trip report so to speak. I am writing from memory about something that happened a year ago, but it is true.
Blondie was a nickname I had because when I was growing up I was in an area where it was unusual to be blond, and funny enough, C's friends started calling me bionde.

I think it is fun to enjoy all styles of trip reports, isn't it?

A great adventure, dln. More?

dln:

You rock! Your report is so good. I was just ITCHING to include Sorrento on our Pompeii daytrip . . . it sounds just heavenly.

Oh well . . . it's on my short list of possibilities for my 2005 to Europe.

Jennie :)

Hi dln,

Thanks so much for a great trip report - it was wonderful to read. I loved staying in Trastevere too for the same reasons - great shops and markets, small restos with wonderful food.

Welcome back home.

You are all so nice to leave such good comments about my report! As you can see, I've discovered "italian time" meaning that I'm moving to my own pace in regard to writing...

A BIT MORE OF NAPLES

We took the funiclare to the top of Naples. This cable car goes through a tunnel, so you obviously aren't going to see anything, but it's very interesting. We were deposited in a big piazza, and R and I stopped out of the way of pedestrian traffic in order to consult our maps. Before long, we were approached by a Italian man. He asked us, in Italian, if we could use some help finding anything. Since we needed to get our bearings about where the castle was, we said, yes, of course. He was a tall, middle-aged man, very attractively dressed and seemed friendly and respectable. He was delighted that we wanted to see the castle; he owned a cameo factory nearby and he'd be happy to walk with us. He asked where we were from and commented that my husband looked Italian. R was a bit taken aback, but said jokingly that his hairdresser had given him a "roman cut" so he'd look like the locals. Not the answer our new friend wanted! After a few minutes' pause, he chidingly (in a very agreeable way) told R that it is considered a very high compliment to be told one looks Italian, especially when told by an Italian.

Ah, but didn't he have us hook, line and sinker with that one! To be the wife of an Italian-looking man! I was ready to swoon at the possibilites. If R looked Italian, perhaps I could start to dress him Italian as well? Perhaps I could get him to romance me like an Italian? Perhaps I could weadle an Italian trip every year out of him? I was lost in thought as we ambled towards the castle.

Our helpful stranger led us to the castle, but insisted we take a look at his cameo shop. He was very proud of it, telling us his brother made the cameos, and one of their clients was Tiffany. How could we not look? We were buzzed in, and entered a very elegant shop, where we were shown how the cameo carving was done. Then we looked at the trays full of earrings and necklaces. I actually don't like cameos, but they were so sweet and so helpful and so persuasive, that before I knew it, R was doling out 40 euros and I had a new pair of earrings.

I've thought about that incident since then, and I'm not really sure if the man was a tout. Was it his job to bring lost tourists to the shop? Or was it really his family business? In some peverse kind of way, I hope he was a tout...everyone says Naples is full of trickery, and that tourists must be aware lest they get scammed. If we were scammed, it was the most delightful way of being parted with our money that I've every come across! We were completely charmed, and I chuckle every time I wear my earrings...and we did find our way to the castle.

NAPLES CONTINUED

The day seemed to disappear as we carried on wandering and exploring. Before we knew it, 7:30 pm was looming upon us. We had to make our way from the top of Naples down to the docks in order to catch our 8:12 ferry back to Sorrento.

Down at the docks past daybreak, and it was confusion everywhere! It's not very clear what boat goes where--you really have to get close to the boarding place and ask what the destination of that particular boat is. Four boats, and none of them heading to Sorrento. 8:00 rolls around and we're getting a bit panicky. We dash from one dock to the other with no luck. Where's our boat? We consult our schedule--given to us this morning by the ticket seller at the Sorrento marina--and there's supposed to be an 8:12 ferry. The last one of the day. There isn't.

We approach a ferry official and ask him what's up. He says our schedule is not up to date, the last ferry has already departed long ago. We are beside ourselves. How can that be? How can a ferry schedule be current at 9:00 am, and not current at 8:00 pm of the same day??? We sputter and protest and rage, but it's of no use. There's no ferry to take back to Sorrento, and that's that.

I hated Italy then and there. This was our last night in Sorrento; R and I had a romantic dinner planned on the terrace of our hotel, overlooking the moonlit Bay of Naples (yes, it was a full moon!). By taking the last ferry, we were getting back to the hotel just a half hour before the dining room closed. We knew we were cutting it close, but we also knew it was doable. Until the ferry decided not to arrive...

Our only way back was via the commuter train. There were no taxis or busses anywhere in sight, so we had no other option than to take off by foot. Those of you who know Naples might shudder to think of walking from the marina to the train station in daylight, let alone after dark. I assure you that hell hath no fury like a woman denied a moonlit dinner, and anyone with evil intent would not have fared well had they attempted approaching my husband or me, and indeed, no one tried.

The worst of it of it all was is that R and I were starving! After we bought our train tickets and had a few minutes to spare, we crossed the street to street to a small bistro and bought a panini and a pastry. It was so delicious, and not because we were starving, either. Despite myself, my anger faded away and I marveled that only in Naples could you find fine dining at the train station. I couldn't stay angry at wonderful Naples even though my plans were dashed.

It was an uneventful, uncomfortable ride back to Sorrento. We were sitting near two mindless English teenaged girls who chattered away and jumped up every five minutes to see how close they were to their stop. (I think they actually did not get off where they wanted, despite their vigilance, but they were so annoying I didn't point out their error. Bad dln!)

Next day we took a relaxing ferry to Amalfi and had a pleasant day there.

OH THE BEAUTIFUL AMALFI COAST!

It's a spectacular ride on the ferry to the Amalfi coast. Because of the heavy rain on our arrival day, some of the roads were closed, making it impossible to use the SITA bus. The ferry (despite our misgivings about their reliablility, LOL!) turned out to be a much better choice, however. We were lucky enough to sit outdoors on the lower deck. If only I could accurately explain the beauty of the sea! It's startingly blue. Blue that seems to reach to the bottom of the sea floor, unlike any blue I've ever seen. My eyes can't stay away from the sight of the water being churned up by the ferry. It's marvelous. And the scenery!!! Capri looming behind us as we approach the cliffs and caves of the Amalfi coast. We were enchanted, and we hadn't even arrived.

The town of Amalfi is like nothing we've every seen. The cliffs are--for the lack of a better way to say it--in your face!!! They're right on top of you, looming above, so close, so large. We walk to the church only 15 minutes before a wedding is about to begin, and that gives us ample time to get a gander at the interior. We admire the wedding guests, as well. Though it is not yet lunchtime, the guests are dressed quite formally. Some of the gowns we saw were magnifcent. And some...let me tell you, my jaw dropped at this one. Imagine this, if you will: a medium sized woman, a good size 12 or 14, poured into a slinky black dress of a stretchy fabric. It dips down deep in the front and shows off a magficent cleavage and lovely jewelry for accent. It dips down deep in the back, as well, nearly showing off (had she moved too suddenly or vigourously) something dangerously close to a plumber's crack!!! We look at each other and, what else? crack up. R and I position ourselves well on the church porch near the front doors so as to better see the bride as she comes up the long stairs with her father. I don't know her, but she's so beautiful and so happy that my eyes well with sentimental tears. God only knows what I'll be like when it's time to marry off my own daughter!

R and I putzed around Amalfi for a while, walking up to the paper museum. Amalfi isn't really all that large, and it's mobbed with tourists, so we decided to catch the bus to Ravello. We miss the first one because it's full up. Wait for the second one, and elbow our way to the front of the crowd in a manner which would make any Italian proud. We've already learned you can't be a shrinking violet when it comes to anything involving a queue. We are rewarded with seats; many other have to stand uncomfortably. We feel for them.

Ah Ravello! Beautiful, elegant, serene, civilized Ravello. It is worlds away from the hustle and bustle of Amalfi. I feel as though we could stay for days in this haven of beauty. Alas, it was only for an afternoon, but we did not leave until I did serious damage to my dear husband's wallet at the ceramics shop. This place was a gem--it is entered through a small open air courtyard that puts you in a beautiful frame of mind to spend money. Inside, the sales women are helpful and chatty and the ceramics are excellent. (I am happy to share this place with all of you: Factory Ceramiche d'Arte Pascal, on Via Roma 22. Website is www.ceramichedarte.com.)

We obtained a hiking map of the area from the tourist department and set off down the hill, not wanting to deal with the overcrowded SITA bus again. It was an easy walk down to Amalfi, where we caught our ferry back to Sorrento (on time) and later, onto Naples and off to the next leg of our journey, Umbria.

So there you have it! I've written far too much, so I think Umbria will be saved for another post. I hope those of you who have plowed through this much enjoyed our story of vacation in Italy--thanks for reading, and thanks so much for all the great feedback, too.

I'm so happy to see there is more to your trip! We will be in Sorrento in March and hopefully I'll remember your mishaps and not plan on the 8:12 ferry back to Naples.

Looking forward to reading more of your entertaining adventure.

I think you should just continue on with Umbria, dln! This has been fantastic! You should publish it...really!

Don't you think it's fun to see the Amalfi coast from both land and sea? What did you think of the fountain in the square at the bottom of the steps of the church in Amalfi?

Grasshopper--you mean the fountain with the flowing anatomical attributes? Her charms were not forthcoming while we were there!

Dln,

I hate for this charming, funny report to end. Where, or when, will you be posting the Umbria story? I can't believe you would leave us dangling in Sorrento without telling us of your adventures in Montemelino.

The jam lady

ahhhh...the memories!!!
Re: the black dress...maybe she had it on backwards??????

Yesterday the mailman brought me the December issue of Bon Appetit magazine and what should it have but a feature article about Naples!

On the first page, there's a photo of the Galleria Umberto I, where my husband and I had a mouth-wateringly delicious rhum baba. There's also a full page photo of the street that I mentioned (but could not remember the name of) that had all the nativity figurines. Its name is Via San Gregorio Armeno, and it's pretty hard to miss because it has a very distinctive archway on it.

The Bon Appetit article has dining suggestions and recipes. Take a look and you might fall in love with Naples, like we did.