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TR - Italy, Summer 2023
Hello all - Since I can’t stop thinking about Italy, I thought I may as well give a TR from my Summer ‘23 visit a shot. It was such a fantastic time that I’m already scheduled to return in July ‘24! Ok. Let’s go to Italy!
Some background information first - I live in upstate New York which means I have access to airports in Hartford, CT, NYC, Boston, Newburgh and even Montreal. For this particular trip (maybe my 30th trip to Europe and my 5th to Italy) I found my best deal to be an Aer Lingus flight from JFK via Dublin to Naples. I’d be spending nearly 4 weeks in Italy - 2 weeks solo and 2 weeks with my fella. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd0304016.jpeg From my balcony Having visited Naples a couple of times previously, I decided to indulge myself with a “settling in” day/night at Orsini 46, a B&B close to the water in an area which feels familiar to me, instead of immediately catching a train to Rome. This was my third stay at this small (3 rooms), family run B&B, and I had my usual room which features a small balcony with a Bay of Naples view, an excellent and beautiful tiled shower and a fantastic breakfast. This was my first time flying into Naples and man, was it hot when I arrived! Traveling with only carry-on luggage made my transit via bus from the airport to Centrale Station/Garibaldi less onerous, but I can’t lie. I was a bit overwhelmed by the crowded bus and temperatures well into the 90s. As the stubborn, middle aged woman I am, I walked the 3+ km to my destination. After hours in a plane (and a train prior to that), I just wanted to be outside. Once settled in and showered, I began wandering around Naples, invigorated by the sights and smells of a city that I find to be stimulating and fairly diverse. I understand why so many people describe it as gritty, but just like Athens, I find it comfortable and appealing. I walked through Piazza del Plebiscito, pausing for a refreshing gelato as I sussed out where I might want to have dinner later. After a couple of hours, I returned to accommodations, took a cool shower and allowed myself a brief nap. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e16c93190a.jpg Dinner, at Osteria il Gobetto, was excellent. There was a bit of a wait to be seated, but I scored a chair outside of the restaurant and was poured a glass of crisp white wine as a consolation. Once inside, I ordered a plate of anchovies, followed by a caprese salad and pasta with clams. Everything was excellent and reasonably priced. The service was also lovely. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...12e1b102a.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8c87464ea.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2d57458c.jpegAfter a good night’s rest and breakfast, I packed up my luggage (leaving it behind for a few hours) and ventured out to locate the AirBnB where my sweetie and I would be staying at the end of our trip. It took me a little time to locate it, as it was in an area which I wasn’t familiar with, but I was happy to explore a new to me part of Naples. After locating the property, I rewarded myself with a snack of a gorgeously prepared zucchini blossom. And a spritz! Naples has excellent street food. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...430506c83a.jpgLater in the afternoon, I retrieved my luggage and caught a fast train to Rome, where I would be spending the night at a friend’s home. I generally don’t do single night stays, but I opted to break up the journey to Liguria, where I would be spending 4 nights. So, while it may seem as if I was traveling fast, I was in fact taking my time along the way. Next: Rome and then onward to Liguria. |
nylilly, I am on board!!! You are off to a great start!
What is your itinerary? Places you visited and how many nights? My husband and I spent a week in Rome and a day in Florence in the 70's and we definitely want to return to Italy within the next couple of years and travel around for about 6 weeks. So I'm curious as to where you've been and your opinions. Any favorites? Is it difficult traveling by train? We've traveled by train in Spain, Prague, Poland, and from Zagreb to Ljubljana. Is traveling by train in Italy easier and less stressful than renting a car? My husband usually drives in foreign countries but I wonder if trying to park in small villages and cities is difficult. The only problem I find with trains is having to handle our own luggage. We are not young any more! Anyways, looking forward to more! |
Great start. Looking forward to more, nylilly!
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Love Ital so looking forward to reading more. What is your itinerary?
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Looking forward to more!
I stayed very near your Naples B & B this past May (at Hotel Rex). On a previous visit, we stayed at Hotel Piazza Bellini, which we loved, but I told myself in the future when I'm in Naples during the warm months, I will stay closer to the water, which at least gives the impression of a breeze. |
Thanks for the encouragement! The trip was a total of 26 nights for me. I traveled in a loop - Naples (1 night) - Rome (1 night) - San Terenzo, Liguria (4 nights) - Lucca (3 nights) - Florence (7 nights) - Rome (3 nights) - Ischia (4 nights) - Naples (3 nights). All transit was either train, bus or ferry. I've driven in Italy before, but much prefer wine at lunch and a window view on public transportation. I travel very light with the expectation that I'll have to do laundry along the way. I booked the long train trips in advance for the best prices and options. Accommodations were, beyond a friend's home in Rome, all Airbandbs, a platform I have some issues with in terms of available housing for residents, but I intentionally seek out hosts who live on the property or who have been hosting for many years. As far as favorite places in Italy...I love it all, even the Cinque Terre which I will never again visit in summer because of the crowds. On this particular trip, Naples continued to charm, Ischia was an unexpected delight and Florence earned a special place in my heart. There's still so much of Italy that I have yet to experience - Venice, Sicily, AC, Milan...Summer '24 takes me to Puglia and Matera for 2 weeks followed by 10 days split between Naples/Rome/Ovietto and Florence.
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Sounds like a great trip. I was in Cinque Terre in May and it was crazy busy. We stayed in Corniglia and it wasn't crowded like the rest of the area. Actually quiet in the late afternoon and into the evening as well as in the am. Puglia is wonderful and Matera is fascinating. I did a TR on them when I was there 10 years or so ago. We even stayed at Orsini 46 way back then. Glad to see they are still around.
I love Italy and we will be making our 11th trip in the fall. Looking forward to reading more. https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...ort-tr-953589/ |
Part 2 - Rome and Liguria
My time in Rome was brief on my way north. I was still getting my legs under me from the journey and simply wanted a familiar place to unload some of my belongings (things I wouldn't need until later in the trip like excess toiletries, etc), visit Mercato Testaccio and enjoy a good dinner. I had zero agenda beyond that. in Rome, I stay in the Ostiense neighborhood. It's well connected to transit and, for me, very walkable. I'm inclined to walk 20,000+ steps in a typical day while on vacation. The weather was very hot, but I just missed the record temperatures of 105+. Fortunately, Rome has wonderful nasone, or drinking fountains, scattered around the city from which I availed myself. I also brought along packets of LiquidIV, a powder of electrolytes which I added to my water bottle to prevent dehydration. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b38b6ef42.jpeg Cacio e Pepe https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f77229b6.jpeg Panne Cotta with tasty strawberries https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...64a22981c.jpeg The bounty at Mercato Testaccio https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0e15840e.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a8aca5f93.jpeg Water is cold and delicious! My first "real" destination of the trip was San Terenzo in Liguria. It's a small town directly on the water and is within walking distance (2 km) of Lerici, a town I had briefly visited in 2010. I chose it for access to the Cinque Terre as well as for the slightly off the beaten track location. My accommodations were lovely! I stayed in a private home a short walk from the water, hosted by a couple who spoke little English (I speak little Italian, although I began picking it up as my trip continued), yet made me feel very welcome. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56f9b233e.jpeg My host's caper berries https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...170eced1d.jpeg My home in San Terenzo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...60e4bdaf7.jpeg Resident kitty https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c728bfc9.jpeg The view from my tower room https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f29e3c920.jpeg San Terenzo alley https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35fdfe561.jpeg An afternoon pick me up https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e679c6ef3.jpeg Tellaro swimming spot https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...99a315ceb.jpeg Frito Misto! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf958a168.jpeg Encountered on my walk My days in San Terenzo involved lots of walking, lazy napping, cooling swims and delicious fresh seafood meals. I had purchased a two day trails/trains pass for the Cinque Terre. To get to the villages, I took a boat from Lerici, however the seas were very rough that day and we were unable to dock at all of the villages. I was able to disembark in Monterosso, which turned out to be elbow to elbow in tourists, many of them American. It was again, quite hot out and the idea of hiking did not appeal to me at all. I found a slip of beach for a sun nap and committed to a return visit some year in October or early May. The congestion on the train between villages was intense and I quickly decided that I would be not using the second day of my pass. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5678fe32f.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d461f0c07.jpeg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f38ad6a9c.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c290f477d.jpeg Perfect lunch frittata https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61028dc14.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c31bc3ec.jpeg Next stop: Lucca! |
Can't wait to read your TR, yestravel! Orsini is definitely my go to place. I love having familiar places in foreign destinations and will be staying with them again in July.
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What little I’ve seen of Italy, I have loved! Looking forward to more of your report.
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Great so far and looking forward to more! Italy is my favorite place. I also live in Upstate NY and I'm also going to Puglia and Rome in June.
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Your San Terenzo shots are so inviting. Please keep it coming.
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Great pics, enjoying your TR. Ironically, we will be going back to Italy next year and also hope to visit some of the sections of Liguria Coast weve missed previously - Camogli, Portovenere, Lerici, Rapallo etc
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Great minds think alike, SusanP! We'll be in Puglia in July, followed by Rome/Orvietto/Florence. Have you settled on your itinerary?
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Happy Boxing Day! Continuing with my Italian travels...
From San Terenzo I caught a bus to La Spezia and the train station. Next stop: Lucca. In 2010, I had visited Lucca for a brief afternoon and had been charmed by the small walled city. This was my first opportunity to get back to it and I absolutely relished my time alone in this beautiful Tuscan city. My AirBnB was ideally located within walking distance of the train station and within the walls - and very near an excellent gelato spot. The annual music fest was winding down and my arrival (and departure) coincided with concerts making for a festive atmosphere. The weather was significantly cooler than what I had experienced in my previous locations and I loved the freshness of the air. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06fe398ec.jpeg Dinner in a funky spot. The pictured man was on premise and confirmed that he was the owner and the face of the place! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e51354446.jpeg Lasagna https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aa4e8fbd2.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b921db147.jpeg When your name is Silvia, you don't often see it printed on tableware. When you do, you take a picture. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ef2227ba.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e232b7171.jpeg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...626e0e67e.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...543b65d65.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...366d1b8e5.jpeg My time in Lucca was primarily spent walking around, listening to Sinead O'Connor on repeat (her death was announced while I was there) and relaxing. I admire the itineraries I see presented on this site but, for me, vacation is about making my own schedule, absorbing the vibe, eating and drinking local foods and simply being present. I had no agenda whatsoever in Lucca - and it was lovely. The food was very good (with a single exception), the people were friendly and my accommodations were ideal. I would happily return. |
Lovely photos and trip report. I would love to visit Italy, but I speak absolutely no Italian. Do Italians in the tourist areas generally speak some English?
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Your spot in San Terenzo looks absolutely lovely and relaxing. I said "never again" to the Cinque Terre a long time ago but have since enjoyed Camogli, Santa Maria Ligure, etc.
Hope you enjoy Puglia and Basilicata next summer. I was there this past May, after five days in Naples, and loved it. Have you decided where you will stay? Looking forward to your next installment. |
Originally Posted by nylilly
(Post 17520634)
Great minds think alike, SusanP! We'll be in Puglia in July, followed by Rome/Orvietto/Florence. Have you settled on your itinerary?
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nylilly, I love your photos of Lucca! You really capture the essence of the place. Last May our daughter, son-in-law, and young grandchildren spent 3 weeks in Lucca. With 2 young children, they wanted a very relaxing vacation staying put in one place. They took some daytrips but absolutely enjoyed just hanging out in Lucca. The city walls is what drew them to Lucca. They rented a 4-wheel bike that holds 4 people, with a canopy, and pedaled around in that. They became friendly with the owners of a nearby restaurant they frequented, and the owners gave our grandchildren gifts when they left. Needless to say, they have very fond memories of Lucca.
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This is a delightful report! I’m so enjoying it! Italy is my husband’s and my favorite country, and have been there several times. Your trip includes a few places that I hope to visit someday soon - Lucca, Ischia - so it’s exciting to see this, too. Italy is, to me, the perfect place for travel - lots of cultural sights when I need stimulation but the perfect place to just chill and enjoy.
Thanks for sharing your travels! |
Originally Posted by pgtraveler
(Post 17520732)
Lovely photos and trip report. I would love to visit Italy, but I speak absolutely no Italian. Do Italians in the tourist areas generally speak some English?
Originally Posted by Leely2
(Post 17520736)
Your spot in San Terenzo looks absolutely lovely and relaxing. I said "never again" to the Cinque Terre a long time ago but have since enjoyed Camogli, Santa Maria Ligure, etc.
Hope you enjoy Puglia and Basilicata next summer. I was there this past May, after five days in Naples, and loved it. Have you decided where you will stay? Looking forward to your next installment.
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17520759)
nylilly, I love your photos of Lucca! You really capture the essence of the place. Last May our daughter, son-in-law, and young grandchildren spent 3 weeks in Lucca. With 2 young children, they wanted a very relaxing vacation staying put in one place. They took some daytrips but absolutely enjoyed just hanging out in Lucca. The city walls is what drew them to Lucca. They rented a 4-wheel bike that holds 4 people, with a canopy, and pedaled around in that. They became friendly with the owners of a nearby restaurant they frequented, and the owners gave our grandchildren gifts when they left. Needless to say, they have very fond memories of Lucca.
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 17520763)
This is a delightful report! I’m so enjoying it! Italy is my husband’s and my favorite country, and have been there several times. Your trip includes a few places that I hope to visit someday soon - Lucca, Ischia - so it’s exciting to see this, too. Italy is, to me, the perfect place for travel - lots of cultural sights when I need stimulation but the perfect place to just chill and enjoy.
Thanks for sharing your travels! |
I left Lucca feeling as if the quiet part of my trip was drawing to a close since the next 2 destinations were city stays. With only a single misstep in my train travels (I think I got off the wrong stop in Pisa to switch to my train for Florence. Not a hug problems whatsoever!), I arrived in Florence's Santa Maria Novella Station and was able to make my way on foot to my accommodations on the south side of the Arno. I swear that first trek to my AirBnB felt as if it was uphill all the way, but after my initial walk, it began to feel quite comfortable and familiar.
I had only been to Florence once previously for an afternoon. We saw David and somehow, at that time, found a crappy restaurant and had a mediocre meal. Happily, this trip featured only delicious food and bright sunshine. My host, a retired chef, provided lots of suggestions as well as a home that I hated to leave. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aaed9bf4d.jpeg The view from my window! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bd8aa2d08.jpeg My favorite gelato of the trip - ricotta fig. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f14428d39.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0e299002a.jpeg My first evening in Florence - sunset. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...03545861c.jpeg My room for the last 3 nights of my solo portion of the trip was in the Porta Romana area and I loved it. Aside from the phenomenal view and hospitality of my host, I felt as if I was perfectly positioned to explore Florence without being stuck in the very center of the city. I could be at Mercato Centrale in 20 minutes - a feat I accomplished repeatedly when I sought a bite to eat, free wifi and a decent public bathroom. During my alone time I took a sunset rooftop yoga class and visited the Boboli gardens and did my best to locate a few wine windows in advance of the arrival of my guy, as well as a friend and her family who were meeting us for an afternoon. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8d437e372.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b3934d32.jpeg The ceiling of Mercato Centrale https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8be4837e6.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ecfb14224.jpeg Sunrise from my bedroom https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...444e437f8.jpeg Bonus balloon! https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...beb9be060.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...602f658a0.jpeg Boboli garden is ideal for some morning strolling https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1bf92c5bf.jpeg I ultimately located 3 wine windows! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9697bc1b.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba6b62e38.jpeg The duomo at sunset from a nearby rooftop https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d08cb8c56.jpeg After nearly 2 weeks solo, the couple's vacation begins next... |
Originally Posted by nylilly
(Post 17520822)
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After spending nearly a month in Italy this year, I had intended to return to Greece for the same length of time in 2024, but...I decided I needed more Italy! Greece will have to wait until 2025. |
The second part of my stay in Florence was with my love. He arrived late in the afternoon on Monday and we thoroughly enjoyed our 4 nights. With a twinge of sadness, I left my lovely room in Port Romana for an apartment just a block from the Arno, also on the south side of the river. The location was terrific and I can't imagine why anyone would want to stay on the more touristy north side!
Our days together in Firenze were spent walking, eating and drinking, with a bit of art thrown into the mix. Since we had both already seen David, as one must, we booked advance tickets to visit the Uffizi to take in the Birth of Venus. I very much appreciate art, but in small doses. For a place like the Uffizi or the Hermitage, I generally pick a couple of things to see, much preferring to be outdoors. I loved what I could see of the Birth of Venus, but had little patience for the folks who were more interested in posing for selfies in front of the art than in actually looking at the work. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...68704f75e.jpeg Street art https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ba61f48f.jpeg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...563aa62fe.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e46e06dfe.jpeg I was quite taken by the Seven Virtues - Justice https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5eba2be2.jpeg Fortitude https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...214a9c816.jpeg The best I could do with the TikTok crowd! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a33b3ee4f.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e2be0810.jpeg We enjoyed a couple of fantastic meals. There were breakfasts of fruit and pastries, bruschetta, pasta, pizza, porchetta and, of course, Steak Florentine. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...25174901c.jpeg Bruschetta at Mercato Centrale https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70fe40ea9.jpeg Get yourself a porchetta sandwich here! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d7ab96ef90.jpg Antica Porchetteria Granieri 1916 https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7010debc71.jpg Perfect porchetta sandwich https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84e19c606.jpeg The steak should be presented uncooked first. https://www.anticoristorodicambi.it/en/ https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cc6bc7e8c.jpeg Finished, yet still quite rare. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...697ad7ddb.jpeg A very fine bottle of wine - not on the list. Ask! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...502f607da.jpeg Zucchini flowers https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...788ae48c8.jpeg Cinghiale ragu One night, we enjoyed an elegant nightcap at the St. Regis, a beautiful hotel beyond our budget. Treat yourself to an amaro in their gorgeous lounge! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0122311e.jpeg Swanky sipping! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ac226587e.jpeg Save a few bob by eating at the Mercato Centrale. There is literally something for everyone there - and mornings were very quiet and peaceful...and delicious. On one of our last days in Tuscany, we took the train about 20 minutes outside of Florence to visit a winery. We had scheduled in advance through friends who own a restaurant in the city where we live and the winery folks organized a car to meet us at the station for a picturesque drive into the country. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f125075a.jpeg Our train stop https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0eaee5b46.jpeg Beautiful scenery in every direction. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97db4df98.jpeg The wines & olive oil were excellent! https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca3482742.jpeg NOT a runaway bride! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a146355d.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...560216345.jpeg Our tasting room https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3c57b5da.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce9f52c52.jpeg And so our time in Florence, for this trip, comes to a close. Next up - Rome! |
I spent nearly a month in Greece in 2022 (Paros/Antiparos, Athens and Nafplio) and am eager to get back to see more!
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Originally Posted by nylilly
(Post 17521142)
I spent nearly a month in Greece in 2022 (Paros/Antiparos, Athens and Nafplio) and am eager to get back to see more!
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nylily,
Loving your photos! Italy definitely steals my heart! Funnily enough, we’re going to Greece this spring for a month and will be going to the Pelopponese and central Greece area. But thinking of getting back to Italy sometime soon. We were in Polignano a Mare and Lecce in 2021 (as well as Matera - are you planning to go there?) and loved it. There’s just SO much to see in Italy! |
I enjoyed this report. Recently retired, we have spent a lot of time in Napoli and The Mezzogiorno over the last two years. Following a long passion went to pizza school in Napoli... love the city and her people.
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Originally Posted by amardhaliwal6609
(Post 17522270)
I enjoyed this report. Recently retired, we have spent a lot of time in Napoli and The Mezzogiorno over the last two years. Following a long passion went to pizza school in Napoli... love the city and her people.
Originally Posted by progol
(Post 17521223)
nylily,
Loving your photos! Italy definitely steals my heart! Funnily enough, we’re going to Greece this spring for a month and will be going to the Pelopponese and central Greece area. But thinking of getting back to Italy sometime soon. We were in Polignano a Mare and Lecce in 2021 (as well as Matera - are you planning to go there?) and loved it. There’s just SO much to see in Italy! |
After a bite to eat at Mercato Centrale and some last minute Florentine purchases (leather accessories), we boarded the train for Rome. We had purchased our tickets in advance, but found ourselves able to make an earlier train and we easily able to exchange our tickets, plus a few euro, to get ourselves to Rome a bit sooner in the day. It was my guy's birthday (one that ends with a zero) and we were feeling celebratory.
We arrived at Termini and caught a train to my friend's home near Basilica San Paolo. After dropping our bags and freshening up, we hit the streets for some strolling. We had no specific destination. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d36b74e3b.jpeg Along the Tiber https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...95b64191a.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...00e3be49b.jpeg These Holocaust memorial plaques always stop me in my tracks. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5ab5f7cfc.jpeg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e28b2409.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07b5f963e.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...685d4168a.jpeg We had our first and only day of rain on the trip while in Rome. It was great - it freshened things up and forced the less hardy tourists to indoor locales. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fed6d8099.jpeg Caution when wet! We witnessed more than one person go down on these slippery cobblestones. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...101658942.jpeg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...344f5522c.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1cef076f.jpeg Dinner at Ditirambo https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb05d57f9.jpeg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0d5511db.jpeg We ended the night at the rooftop bar Acquaroof which features Molinari sambuca, my beau's favorite. Dinner was here. Drinks with a view here. |
nylily,
I hope you don’t mind looking at my trip report from 2021 as there is so much to the Puglia area and to Matera, that I could exhaust myself with suggestions! And we didn’t see half the places that are popular to visit! Still, I think we did a good job seeing the regions we did visit. We had traveled from Croatia to Bari by ferry, starting in Polignano a Mare, staying in Lecce, going to Matera, before moving on to the Amalfi Coast and Naples (2nd visit for the latter 2). https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...1704062/page5/ |
The holocaust stones are now spreading across Europe. The originator has finally retired and just does a few but, with friends, he has laid over 70,000. He only provides them in a town which asks for them and has been at it for many years.
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"I love your enthusiasm about Naples - it seems that many people find it to be "too gritty," but I also appreciate the authenticity and diversity of Napoli. can't wait to get back there!" On our first trip to Naples my husband said, "Nothing like garbage strikes and fear of [size=13px]crime[/size] to keep tourists away". It was blissfully empty of tourists. A bit more tourists on our second visit, but still not bad at all.
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Getting caught up on TR's after the busy holidays! I love your photos and narrative on Florence. We visited once for a day in the 70's and I am really anxious to get back. I love your travel philosophy: see some sights such as art in Florence but make time for being outdoors wandering, drinking, eating. We love to visit markets when we travel so I know we would enjoy the Mercato Centrale. Love all your food photos. My husband would love the way the steak is cooked - not me, a little too raw looking for me.
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@bilboburgler - I've seen them in Prague also. They are so powerfully heartbreaking.
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@Karenwoo - That steak was definitely extremely rare! By the time our main was served, after our preliminary courses, we didn't have much room to eat the steak. Took it back to our Airbnb and very much enjoyed it the next day for a hearty steak & eggs breakfast. You must return to Florence! The Mercato Centrale is two stories with purveyors of meats, cheeses, produce, wines, etc, primarily on the first floor and the best "food court" you could ever imagine upstairs. Surrounding the building, the streets are filled with stalls selling leather, pottery and other desirable items. Be sure to haggle - it is expected.
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nylilly, forgot to mention that I love the photo of you and your beau in the vineyards! Lovely photo!
And enjoyed your photos of Rome! Haven't been to Rome since the 1970's when we spent a week there. The cobblestones do look nice in the rain but can be treacherous. I like your attitude about the rain.:) You won't let anything spoil your trip. Good for you! I'm sure we would love the food court at Mercato Centrale. We always eat in food courts at markets and love trying different foods. |
Our stay in Rome was only for 3 nights since we had both spent time there in recent years. One thing I did for the first time was visit the Jewish ghetto, reputed to be the oldest such enclave in Europe. I didn't have a specific agenda, instead I just wandered the streets taking in the architecture, aromas and sounds of this vibrant neighborhood. As I walked on a sunny late morning, I was utterly entranced by the sound of someone masterfully playing piano in a second floor apartment. Pure magic. I would have liked to share the video/audio, but it isn't the correct format to allow me to upload. Sorry!
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2c984a24d.jpg Jewish ghetto https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...21733cd6e1.jpg Jewish ghetto https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07abb4c710.jpg View from Terrazza Navona Cocktails on the rooftop Terrazzo Navona https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...11b715ffe6.jpg We also ate at the only "chain" restaurant I've ever been to in Italy, La Prosciutteria. There are three locations, I believe, and I've never been disappointed with a morsel I've been served. Well, actually, their license doesn't allow them to serve diners, so you'll have to carefully carry your antipasto laden board to the table yourself. Completely unassuming, reliably delicious and with the best playlist in Rome. Pizza at Mercato Testaccio's Casa Manco is not to be missed. Their secret involves a long rise of the dough and it was fantastic. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...463c20b79.jpeg La Prosciutteria spread - don't miss the porchetta! Next stop...Ischia via Napoli! |
the whole, show customer the steak before we cook it, thing is just a new thing. I've been in Europe with local friends and they all look aghast at it and one even began shouting at the waiter. Not to be encouraged.
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I never would have considered requesting to see the beef prior to preparation had my Airbnb host, a very highly regarded, successful retired chef from Florence, not advised me to do exactly
that. I deferred to him in this situation. |
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