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-   -   THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON PART II (Inc Portugal) (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/things-to-do-in-and-around-lisbon-part-ii-inc-portugal-606503/)

Matt_from_England May 1st, 2006 05:11 AM

Yes of course Sher, you are right: as much as I dilsike them they are a neccesary evil - Lizzy never lets me leave the house alone without it.

I also hate computers, but by reason of work need them. Sometimes I think I'd be happier sat meditating on a mountain top somewhere - I go through periods of wanting to remain out of contact. Is that something most people suffer? I guess so. Anyway...

For those coming over soon I'd like to report that the temps are climbing up, stretching blue skies and I think I'll be sitting in the coffee shop this afternoon sipping on a tall cool imperial and perhaps eating a plate of Ameijoas with Lizzy. Yum ;-) Lobo, how are things at Granny's house?

Matt

Sher May 1st, 2006 05:37 AM

You know Matt, I am retired so I no longer have such a need for that mountain because most of my time is mine to do with as I please.

Even so, my husband is always having to remind me to take the phone with me.

But because we rent apartments mostly, it is nice to be able to keep in touch.

Funny, but we never use it for restaurant reservations or hotel reservations and such. We just use it to call the US.

henryandcasper May 1st, 2006 07:21 AM

Matt, I completely understand the desire to go underground (or, in your case, to the top of a mountain). My life gets crazy and, while I feel lucky to be surrounded by friends and family and work (I wouldn't trade any of it for the world), I too need to retreat in order to recharge.

henryandcasper May 1st, 2006 07:24 AM

By the way, we arrive in Portugal June 21st. We head straight into the Alto Alentejo until June 26th and then on to Lisbon. Just how high are the temperatures rising?

Sarasara May 1st, 2006 08:26 AM

Hello all, just thought I would check in and let you know how our plans are going. We arrive in lisbon on June 19 and will be staying at the vip hotel berna for one quick night before going on to Salema. I have read mixed reviews although mostly good. We will arrive at around 22:00 and leave the next morning so budget was the biggest factor. We got 2 rooms and breakfast for all 5 of us for 112 euros. And it is not too far from the airport and includes breadfast. Anyone have any feedback on the place? I can cancel until 16:00 the day we check in. We will stay 7 nights at Salema then go to Monseraz for 2 nights. I am looking at Estalagem De Monsaraz. Anyone have any feedback on this hotel? We will use this as a base to explore the area for 2 days. Now that we have a hotel for the 1st night in Lisbon I will look at car rental. thanks for the info on that. I am going to the web site that sher recommended at economy car rentals.

lreynold1 May 1st, 2006 09:03 AM

To robertsmyth, I don't have a map with me at the moment, but here are some places between Lisbon and Braga that I think are worth a visit, depending on taste of course.
On the way out of Lisbon, Obidos, Nazare, and the monastery at Alcobaca are three obvious choices. Obidos is a bit too touristy for my tastes but is beautifully preserved and you can walk the walls around the entire city. Nazare is no longer the sleepy fishing village I remembered from 1974, but still very beautiful, especially from the upper part of town which is situated on cliffs and looks out along the ocean. The Alcobaca monastery is close to Nazare and has beautiful gothic tombs associated with two of the Portuguese nobility who had a Romeo and Juliet type relationship (the details now escape me)
Almourol castle -- if you're going to visit Tomar and its convent up on the hill, this is closeby and is a very nice detour, not too far out of the way. There's a man with a little motorboat that drives you out to the castle, which is about 30 feet from shore. Nice views, a lot of fun to walk around.
Conimbriga -- Roman ruins near Coimbra (with very nice, though modern, pousada at Condeixa a Nova, about 3 km from ruins). Condeixa also has a great pottery factory store that makes the typical Coimbra ceramics (very different from the Alentejo pottery, the Coimbra designs are based on 16th and 17th (?) century motifs and are very much more delicate than the bold and bright Alentejo designs), it's called Nazari, and is very close to the pousada.
Coimbra itself is a very pleasant university city -- the old buildings of the University, especially the library, are very nice. The city has a nice pedestrian zone with many nice cafes and shops.
Bussaco -- there's an over the top wildly decorated palace in the middle of a forest with lovely walks. Palace is also a hotel, which we enjoyed a night in. (If you like roast suckling pig (leitao), a nearby town called Mealhada is the place to go. Two restaurants we have enjoyed are Simoes dos Leitoes and Meta dos Leitoes, but the town streets are lined with places to eat leitao.
Guimaraes -- this is very close to Braga, so you will probably get there on your own, but I highly recommend a visit, it's a very pretty town, it reminded me of typical Galician towns in northern Spain -- arcaded plazas, with apartments above with glassed in balconies. The pousada outside of town, in the convent Santa Marinha, is stunning (and much nicer than the in-town one). About 20 km from Guimaraes is a fascinating site -- the Citania dos Briteiros, ruins of an Iron age settlement, beautifully situated and so interesting to walk around the more the remains of more than 200 dwellings.
I would recommend that on one leg of the trip, you swing out to the east and visit some of the Alentejo, especially Marvao, Redondo (if you like pottery), Estremoz, etc. This would require some off-highway driving, maybe up through Vila Real (with a very nice art museum and cloister), but I think it would be more fun and more interesting than two trips up and down the highway from Lisbon. If you can give some more specific info on the types of places you like to visit, I'm sure that the very knowledgeable people on this forum, like lobo and matt, can help you out, too.

robertsmyth May 1st, 2006 01:09 PM

lreynold, Thanks for your reply!

We too are not much into touristy spots, so thought we might skip Obidos. (or are we nuts?)

We like a relaxed pace. With four days to get to Braga we were thinking of Alcobaca, Nazare and a couple of nights in Coimbra. Thanks for your ideas on Almourol, Nazari, leitao in Mealhada, and Citania dos Briteiros.

On the way back we would go east to catch Marvao and Evora. Appreicate any thoughts on unique routes and places to stay or eat.

Matt_from_England May 1st, 2006 01:29 PM

Henry, going underground... you aren't one of the NYC mole people are you???

http://fodors.com/forums/threadselec...amp;tid=100608

;-)

henryandcasper May 1st, 2006 02:59 PM

Matt-
Can you imagine? If we end up having an LDC meeting it will be really easy to spot us. We'll be the really pale, pallid people blinking a lot in the newness of the sunlight...

ladylyn915 May 1st, 2006 03:12 PM

Hi Everyone - Less than three weeks and we will be in Portugal!
Sher - Our flight is at 10:30 AM.

I checked the difference in prices and for my original Budget rental-- it is only E30 less. However, on the Economy Rental site the difference was closer to E130. I am also still struggling with getting an economy automatic vs an intermediate automatic. Although we are only 2 people, we will have my husband golf clubs and 2 pieces of luggage ( just can't travel any lighter). I decided to take a chance with the broker. I'll use my Amex, and if there winds up any problem,(like no car when I get to the counter) I can always have Amex fight for the refund. Of course I 'm hope that isn't an issue. I'll keep the Budget reseveration just in case since I did not prepay anything for it.

I almost convinced myself that we should cancel the last 4 days of the rental when we get to Cascais but then I started reading about the coastline and I am wavering again.

Matt - how's the LDC plans coming for 5/26 or 27 Is this still a go?

Lyn

isabel May 1st, 2006 03:45 PM

Hi. I'm working on my plans for our trip in July and would appreciate any and all comments on my itinerary.

Sunday, July 9 arrive Lisbon (8:00 am) from New York, pick up rental car and drive to Evora. (Two nights there)

Monday, July 10 - day trip to Monsaraz and Elvas

Tuesday, July 11 - drive to Marvao, stopping in Estremoz on the way. Spend night in Marvao

Wednesday, July 12 - drive to Coimbra stopping in Tomar on the way. Spend night in Coimbra

Thursday, July 13 - drive to Obidos, stopping in Alcobaca on the way. Two nights in Obidos

Friday, July 14 - day trip to Nazare

Saturday, July 15 - drive to Lisbon, stopping in Sintra on the way. Night in Lisbon

Sunday, July 15-Friday, July 21 - Lisbon.

How does that sound? I'm open to any suggestions. My main questions though are should we try to see Arraiolos and if so should we do it on day 1, 2, or 3? And where to fit Ericeria. But I'll take any other suggestions. Thanks

Sher May 1st, 2006 07:18 PM

Hi Lyn. Our flight out is at 10:30 also. At least that is doable.

The small automatic would be fine, that is what we had. I will admit the golf clubs would present a problem. You will have the whole back seat.
Are you concerned about traveling and people being able to see the luggage/golf clubs in the car while you are parked?

If you decide on Economy Car Rentals and they place you with Thrifty Bravacar (as they did us) I want to tell you that the cars are not at the airport. We must take a shuttle from the airport to the car. I checked with Thrifty. This would probably account for some of the difference in the cost. I get the impression that the rental office is close, just not right there. So allow for extra time if you are coming from Cascais.

Just to let you know.

lobo_mau May 2nd, 2006 01:18 AM

Robert, if you plan to visit Marvao and/or Monsaraz than I think that Obidos is not a must. Marvao is place of beauty and magic without limits. Otoh Monsaraz looks like it comes directly from king Arthur legends. When we are there, we almost imagine that at each corner, we could see a group of nights coming. I've never felt anything similar in Obidos. Although beautiful it reminds Disneyland to me.

Lady, of course LDC meeting is a go. I propose Pateo da Memoria with live music (Fados). Matt, do you agree? Are there the suitable dates? 26 or 27? Within 1 week I'll go there or call to know which date is better.

Isabel, I have this suggestion:
July 10 Monsaraz during the morning, it might be hot up the hill, so it's better early in the morning. Things to see: In the main Church, Jesus bearing the cross, scuplture in wood, unknown artist, the paintings of good and bad judge in inquisition court and the views of the new Alqueva Dam and Spain to the east. During the afternoon, I'd visit Arraiolos instead of Elvas (If I'm killed after this post, it's because Elvas is my wife's birth place). In Arraiolos, visit the Pousada, outside walls. The Pousada chappel's tiles are a must. Inside walls, the town itself is a must, but it's most known by Arraiolos tapistry. It shouldn't be difficult for you to be invited to visit one or two family run industries. When returning to Evora, why don't you book a table in Adega do Isaias in Estremoz for dinner and visit of the town? Arraiolos to Estremoz and Estremoz to Evora is an easy ride (30 minutes driving). Monsaraz to Arraiolos is a bit far away, consider 1 hour driving.
July 11 - stop in Vila Viçosa to visit the palace of Dukes of Braganza. The visits are in Portuguese, but a nice guide will make side comments is English. Or even better, call in advance to the palace and ask them to find somebody speaking English for you. If neither works, buy the palace guidebook and follow the tour anyway
Alandroal and restaurant A Maria are neighbours to the palace (Alandroal), you might have an early luch and from there go to Marvao without further stops.
That's all for now, I'll return if I remember something worth to refer.

lobo_mau May 2nd, 2006 01:23 AM

Within your plans, I'd skip Ericeira. It's a beach and a former fishing village very similar to Nazaré.
If you had an extra day, you could do Ericeira/Sobreiro/Mafra/Azenhas do Mar/Praia das Maças/Sintra in one day. But I think is better to postpone this for next travel.

lobo_mau May 2nd, 2006 01:38 AM

Matt, Sogra's Inn is mother-in-law's as pointed by Brazilnut. It's not listed by Rick Steves :-)
BTW, Brazilnut, where are you?
I had Ensopado Borrego (Lamb Stew) for Easter day Lunch. Sorry to tell that it was just for me and close family :-) There are things money can't buy :-)

xxxx May 2nd, 2006 03:47 AM

RobertSmyth:

Have you considered Batalha?

robertsmyth May 2nd, 2006 03:50 AM

lobo,
Thanks for the suggestion of Monsaraz. Sounds like the kind of place we'd enjoy.

Do you have a suggestion on the best driving map for Portugal? Michelin, Internation Travel maps, etc?

robertsmyth May 2nd, 2006 03:58 AM

xxxx,
Had heard the monestary there was amazing. Thanks for the reminder! We could stop there after Nazare.

Barb65 May 2nd, 2006 04:50 AM

Sher and Lobo thanks for all the cell comments. When my phone arrives I will know a little more, I hope! I know kids use messages on theirs here in the US but I have never mastered that. Basic calls are enough of a challenge.

We do use it for directions, etc and some of the places I made reservations with asked me for our mobile number in Portugal.

I use my AT&T card (that I use here for all my long distance) to call back to the US. It seems to not cost too much as I have never used it up and I know how to do it - the most important factor!

Lobo/Matt: If the Pateo da Memoria does not work out for the May 27(?) LDC keep it in mind for our visit the next week - sounds like what I was interested in.

I am getting really excited!
Barb

Sher May 2nd, 2006 05:21 AM

Barb. I am excited for you too.

Remember two things:

A glass of wine for me at the LDC.

Report back here when you return so all of us can relive your trip vicariously.

Have a wonderful and safe journey.


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