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Matt_from_England Jan 20th, 2006 09:34 AM

THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON
 
THINGS TO DO IN AND AROUND LISBON.

1 - Tourist tram around the old quarter. From Praça do Commercio. 15 euros or so pp. great views of the narrow cobbled streets no wider than the antique tram, past the castle and looking out over terraces and terra cotta tiled roofs. Makes 1 stop for 10 minutes or so at Basilica de Estrela. Huge Cathedral - free to enter, but don't catch the tram at lunch or it'll be closed.

2 - Catch the ferry from Cais do Sodre to Cacilhas. 65 cents each way. Great views to Lisbon itself from the southern bank. Take a cab to Christo Rei. Climb up to Christ's feet and admire the 360º view. Fantastic photography of the Ponte 25 de Abril.

3 - Saturdays - catch a cab to Feira de Ladra - a huge open air flea market in the old quarter. Watch out for pick pockets but brilliant photo ops.

4 - Go to Castelo S. Jorge for a calm afternoon in the shade. Not sure if you pay to enter now. Good views across old quarter.

5 - Take an elevator ride up Santa Justa downtown. A bit like the Eiffel tower, get off the lift climb the rickety spiral stairs to the bar on top. Very expensive to drink up there. Amazing if somewhat vertigo inducing views.

6 - EXPO - go to the Oceanarium. Amazing to see the sharks.

7 - Take a cab or tram to Belem. A MUST SEE is Mosteiro dos Geronimos. The resting place of Vasco da Gama. UNESCO world heritage site. Monument to the Discoveries across the park and Belem Tower. (Tor de Belem) Fill up with traditional pastries in "Pasteis de Belem." Just ask someone, everyone knows where it is.

8 - Take the train from Cais do Sodre to Cascais - about 1/2 hr along the coast. Great views to the sea. Lots of wonderful restaraunts in Cascais - and once there take a cab to "Boca do Inferno." Don't stand to close to the edge of the cliffs though.

9 - Bairro Alto. Daytime, nice old shopping area, steep hills cobbled roads charming shops and coffee shops. Lively at night - visit a Fado house for dinner wine and live fado music.

10 - Soccer fans should visit Benfica’s stadium. Estadio de Luz. Take the metro to Colegio/Luz. Great atmosphere matchday, museum and statues of Eusebio and club shop weekdays.

11 - Shopaholics – Columbo Shopping Mall. Just opposite the above stadium. Millions of shops in a covered mall, small theme park with rollercoaster for children.

12 - Costa da Caparica, across the river on south bank. (Close to where I live) Nice on weekends and summer days. See the fresh fish being brought up onto the beach. 7 miles of sand. Great surfing. A five mile narrow gauge railway through the sand dunes. (Summer) Many seafood restaraunts.

13 - Take the river cruise up and down the Tagus River, (Tejo.) Can be caught from the terminal at Praça do Commercio. (Summer only???)

14 - Open top bus rides around the city. Close to where you catch the tourist tram in Praca do Commercio. (But the old tram is better!)

15 – Centro Cultural do Belem. C.C.B. Various programs. Classical music. Jazz concerts. Art / photography exhibitions – recently had World Press Photo 2005 and a retrospective of Roy Lichtenstein.

16 – Meat eaters should go to the original Portugalia restaurant Avenida Almirante Reis. Bigs steaks in Portuguese styles. A bit touristy and packed.

17 – For a really good overview of Portuguese cuisine check out Trinidade in Bairro Alto. A famous eating place and one of my favourites. Good wine list and varied menu. Well priced. (For tourists most places are very cheap to eat!) Arrive early or wait for tables, has a bar where you queue so get a beer in!

18 – For surfers check out Guincho for the big waves and wild seas. 30 mins drive on a good day.

19 – Motor racing fans should go to Autodromo do Estoril. Has hosted Formula 1 in the past, I think Ayrton Senna was the last winner, but now moto GP and lesser formulas.

20 – Gamblers will like Casino Estoril, slots, tables etc. Posh, expensive, I think there is a dress code but my wife won’t let me go so I can’t check for you, sorry!

Many more things to do, I’ll list as I think of them.

DAY TRIPS.

No particular order.

1 - Sintra, for the Palace, (Which you can see from Lisbon on a clear day) Moorish Castle, gardens and beautiful village. Arrive early leave late to avoid the crowds esp weekends and summer. Try eating the Queijadinhas de Sintra, sweet little tartlets that you’ll find in the coffee shops. Home for a while of poet Byron who called it “A glorious Eden”

2 – Cascais, Boca do Inferno, Cabo de Roca as mentioned – take train from Cais do Sodre till end, cab to Boca do Inferno or drive to Cabo do Roca, most westerly point in Europe. But the restaurant is completely crap offering substandard menu of burgers etc and expensive. Shame for it has a wonderful view. (Was there last summer – walked in walked out and ate elsewhere!)

3 – Obidos. Two hours from Lisbon +/- depending on traffic. Medieval walled town pretty painted houses inside, possible to walk round the walls though somewhat vertigo inducing and a little narrow. Very touristic but wonderful food. Look esp as you go through the entrance gatehouse at the tiled murals. Photo opportunities abound. Be sure to try Ginjinha, sweet cherry brandy type tipple. Sometimes served in a chocolate cup which you eat afterwards. Arrive early, stay late. In the summer open air concerts in the castle ampitheatre, classical music, opera, Madre Deus a famous portuguese band in the style of Enya’s music do various candle lit concerts. Try to stay a night in the Castle Pousada, (Guesthouse) Very romantic setting.

4 – Marvão. Okay THIS IS MY FAVOURITE VILLAGE IN PORTUGAL. Okay, got that out the way. Marvão is an untouristy version of Obidos on the spanish border. A good 2 ½ hours +, especially in my Land Rover! Rarely visited by the crowds because of the distance. Well worth it. 360º views over Portugal and Spain, border is about 5 miles from it. Castle and medieval walls. The last time I was there (for I usually take cisitors to it) an eagle was flying about 2 metres from me. Charming little gift shop handful of restaurants. You get the feeling people actually live here because every house is a house not a tourist shop. Close by is Castelo da Vide about 4 miles another medieval town on that mountain range. Very picturesque to. Stay in a Pousada and spend 2 days between the two. If I could by a house in Marvão I would! Golf course nearby.

5 – Santarem. About ½ hours north. Pretty town with great views and lots of decent restaurants. Medieval capital of Portugal (at least that’s what the signs on the motorway say!) Close by are the Grutas da Mira D’aire. (Deep caves) Well worth a visit but a little difficult to find. Not to far from Santarem is Tomar, worth an afternoon if you are up that way.

6 – Ericeira. A charming fishing village situated high on the cliffs to the north of Lisbon. 1 hr out. +/-. Steep roads lead to the harbour at the bottom. Nice to stay in the square drinking coffee in the afternoon watching the old people.

7 – WINE LOVERS TAKE NOTE. Forget Porto for the day. Instead head south from Lisbon to Azeitão. Here is the home of José Maria Fonseca. (Those Americans amongst you may know Lancers, a sparkling pink wine very nice chilled) Okay actually in the village itself, the original Quinta (Farm) Here are vineyard tours conducted with a wine museum and tasting at the end. Tours are in English and the wine tasting at the end is great. Assign a driver!!! With a little wine shop selling their own products. A great tour, another one I take visitors on. Especially as a friend of mine was the commercial manager!

Oh and so many more – how many days do you have. I can post more ideas as they come to me.

Matt_from_England Jan 20th, 2006 09:41 AM

Sorry for the long post above: feel free to email me for any more ideas and advice - [email protected]

When I get time I'll post some favourite meals, wines, beers etc etc.

Take care and "Bom fim de semana" (Have a Good weekend)

Matt

francophile03 Jan 20th, 2006 09:58 AM

Matt, thanks for those great ideas of things to do in Lisbon. It's a destination I've been thinking about for a short while now.

lobo_mau Jan 20th, 2006 09:58 AM

My favourite is #7: Fill up with traditional pastries in "Pasteis de Belem." :-)

BootsN Jan 20th, 2006 10:33 AM

Thanks very much for one of the bests postings I have read on this forum.

Matt_from_England Jan 20th, 2006 11:53 AM

Thanks BootsN, I aim to please.

Now start the day with a bica. Coffee in a cup not much bigger than a thimble. Small spoon of sugar, it's so strong the spoon stands up of its own accord. But creamy and smooth. Have it with a Queque simples - a plain cake and that is most people's breakfast. Mine anyway! A few minutes later the caffeine is appreciable and any more than one and you'll be grinding your teeth with that anxious caffeine buzz. Over the weekend I'll be posting thoughts on Portuguese cuisine and drinks, how badly vegetarians are catered for and the fact that very few restaurants have non-smoking areas. That is the only problem with eating out here!

Matt

ElleD9 Jan 20th, 2006 06:30 PM

Matt,
Thanks for a wonderfully informative post - and at such a perfect time. We're just getting started on planning our summer hols and have decided on Lisbon. I know the high season is July and August, which we are hoping to avoid. We were thinking early to mid-June. In your opinion, would we be okay in avoiding much of the crowds then, or should we wait until September?
Thanks

Matt_from_England Jan 21st, 2006 03:13 AM

Dear ElleD9

Visiting Lisbon in either June or September is fine. Good weather and less tourists yes. If I were to chose either then it has to be June. Why? Because of Festa de Stº Antonio. Lisbon's patron Saint. On the night of 12-13th June there are street parties in the centre of Lisbon with parades (somewhat in the style of a mini Rio carnival), but the place to be in Lisbon on this night is Alfama. (The old Quarter) Thousands gather together with song and music, up to the castle and down the narrow cobbled streets which are decorated. Hundreds of stalls selling beer and soft drinks. The meal to eat on this night, sat outside on pavement tables is grilled sardines: the smell and smoke rises from a thousand makeshift barbeques, you sit and waiters will bring over fresh plates filled with boiled potatoes, carrots and the sardines. Jars of white wine, fresh bread, watch the party pass your table, fado players strum their guitars and sing out. The best but busiest place to eat is close by Casa do Bicos, an old building decorated with tiles. But as you wind your way round the lanes there will be plenty of other tables set out less busy. Eat earlier to secure a place easily. This is when Lisbon is at it's best, and without doubt the best time to visit. Being during the world cup should Portugal be playing that day and win the partying will be double the intensity!

So should I be booking up that holiday then I would look for a week either side of this date, with the highlight being Festa da Stº Antonio in the middle. Be prepared to stay up all night and take a million photos!

Feel free to email me,

Take care

Matt

treplow Jan 21st, 2006 05:15 PM

Matt, I have been trying to print your excellent summary of Things to do Around Lisbon. Somehow, I can't get past the first page of your posting. Is there any chance you can send it per e-mail to [email protected]? Would be greatly appreciated.

Matt_from_England Jan 21st, 2006 05:29 PM

Hi there treplow,

I'll email it in the morning no probs. (2.25am here Lisbon time.) Another idea is just copy and paste the text into word and print it that way. Actually it's my intention to keep adding to this thread, (hey perhaps Fodors will pay me to be their "Man in Lisbon"? Moderators what do you think? ;)) inc food tips recipes etc etc, whatever I can think of amusing or otherwise as an Englishman married to a Portuguese girl living in the Lisbon area.

Thanks for your kind comments and stay tuned!

Take care

Matt

Matt_from_England Jan 21st, 2006 05:55 PM

Just noticed a mistake - Santarem should read 1 1/2 hours north of Lisbon, NOT 1/2. Sorry. Late night - too much wine not enough coffee.

Matt_from_England Jan 22nd, 2006 07:59 AM

Treplow, check your inbox.

Matt

treplow Jan 22nd, 2006 03:44 PM

Hasn't gotten here yet. I'll try tomorrow. In any event, thanks much.

michi Jan 23rd, 2006 04:48 AM

Hi Matt,

Nice posting. Thanks.

Michi

lbw14 Jan 23rd, 2006 06:45 AM

what is the weather like in Lisbon in mid-March? If we went further south in portugal, are there any outdoors-type things we could do?

Matt_from_England Jan 23rd, 2006 01:25 PM

Hi there lbw14.

Weather mid march should be early to mid seventies, I've lived here since 97 and have usually found that the weather hits a high point before easter, gets colder and wetter around late April/early May before climbing back up. In the past I've had sun tans by the end of March! What is your schedule and where are you staying? Let me know here and I'll come up with some things for you, otherwise please feel free to email.

Michi, thanks for your comment: I enjoyed making the post. As I say I'm looking to keep this thread current. I've found this resource so useful, I'd like to put something back in no matter that Lisbon isn't a top destination.

Take care all,

Matt

lobo_mau Jan 24th, 2006 12:54 AM

It might be raining or not. It might be cold or not. Snow is not expected.

Matt_from_England Jan 24th, 2006 02:03 AM

lobo mau - you are indeed ;)

lobo_mau Jan 24th, 2006 02:14 AM

Indeed ;-)
Why don't you show up for a coffee? I'll contact you for details.

michi Jan 24th, 2006 03:26 AM

Matt and lobo

Are you familiar with off-the-beaten tourist track things to do in the Algarve, or interesting areas/places to visit not too far north of the Praia da Rocha and Alburfeira areas? We will be arriving Feb. 11 for three weeks.

We have a car, are seniors, and are interested in day trips. Last year we discovered the wild beach and interesting landscape near Carapateira area, and Alte and the Roman bridge not far from it. We have been to many of the tourist locations over the years and are looking for some interesting suggestions.

If you have ideas and suggestion for the Algarve and off the beaten track places to visit (with car), could you start a similar type thread along the lines of:

ALGARVE: PLACES TO VISIT PLUS OFF-THE-BEATEN TRACK SUGGESTIONS.

Thanks.


Matt_from_England Jan 24th, 2006 07:40 AM

Alas Michi I have never ventured further south than Alentejo: Lobo mau can you chip in?

Matt

Matt_from_England Jan 24th, 2006 08:12 AM

Useful websites for those coming to Lisbon/Portugal:

National railways - www.cp.pt
eg Lisbon to Algarve: 22.50 euros, 3 1/2 hrs, Lisbon to Porto: 23 euros, 3 1/2 hrs, 17 euros.

Lisbon Metro - www.metrolisboa.pt

Rural tourism and B&Bs
http://www.pousadas.pt/pls/wse/wsewh...me?p_lingua=en
Quiant hotels and old castles etc.

Basic road map (Not sure how recent)
http://www.travel-images.com/portugal-map.jpg

More updates to come...

Matt

Matt_from_England Jan 24th, 2006 10:31 AM

Sorry, prices for the train fares should read: Algarve 22.50 euros 1st class, 17 euros 2nd. Must Hit preview before post!

lobo_mau Jan 25th, 2006 06:17 AM

Dear Michi
I am sorry to say that Algarve is not my field of interest. I can google any questions you may have or ask to some friends, but I don't have first hand experience.

Matt_from_England Jan 25th, 2006 08:39 AM

A Portuguese breakfast:

You will find a coffee shop every few hundred metres - I sometimes wonder how each survives so close as they are to each other. Anyway:

Coffee comes in two general types:

Bica - small cup of strong creamy black coffee somewhat like an expresso. With a small packet of sugar. Stir and drink in two gulps. 50 cents on average.

Meia de leite - Cup of steamed milk and coffee, a half and half, whilst most Portuguese prefer a bica a meia de leite is just right to sit out on the pavement table and watch people go past. 95 cents or thereabouts.

To eat - try

"um queque simples" a little sweet hard sponge cup cake.
"Bolo de arroz" made from rice flour and sugar.
"Pastel da nata (Pastel de Belém)" Lobo Mau's favourite. Sometimes good, sometimes excellent - especially in Pasteis de Belém. A little egg custard tart, best served warm with a sprinkling of cinamon on top. 1 isn't enough, 2 is just about right!

Depending on what you have and where, (local coffee shops are always cheaper than the tourist traps) you'll pay around 2 euros or less.

Lobo Mau, what did you have this morning? Me - it was a bica and queque simples...

Matt

lobo_mau Jan 25th, 2006 09:48 AM

Bica e croissant com creme, enquanto lia as noticias do Benfica em "A Bola" e fazia horas para começar a trabalhar. Please translate, I feel too lazy.

Sher Jan 25th, 2006 09:53 AM

When we were in Belem enjoying a coffee and pastry (we just couldn't settle for our favorite egg custard tart and had to try more than one) we saw people buying them to go. They pack them in a clever tube.
Do they travel well....that is saying if they really make it far without being eaten. But of course, that is another matter.
Anyway, I thought that they would get a little soggy being put warm into that tube and eating later.
Anyone have an opinion.

lobo_mau Jan 25th, 2006 09:55 AM

A comment to ElleD9. July and August are not the high season in Lisbon. In fact it is the low season, spacially August, when Lisbon seams a ghost town. But, bearing in mind that many restaurantes are closed and it might be too hot, I follow Matt_from_England's suggestion that June is a good time to show up. His description of 13th June evening is excellent. While readind it, I almost felt I was there.

lobo_mau Jan 25th, 2006 10:25 AM

seems, specially and restaurants (sorry). Fodor's should have an after post correction tool.

PalQ Jan 25th, 2006 10:26 AM

thanks for giving such an excellent report on Lisboa and surroundings - outstanding!

Tere Jan 25th, 2006 10:35 AM

Sher:

In my opinion ( and I am Portuguese and live in the Lisbon zone) pasteis de Belem are only good eaten while still hot or somehow hot. The next day they aren't that good, don't taste so good ( I don't like them at all the next day). That's my opinion and most of the Portuguese people opinion!!!

Matt_from_England Jan 25th, 2006 12:16 PM

You know Pasteis de nata are just not the same. In my local coffee shop they are cold and baked in the morning. Whereas in Pasteis de Belem it seems like it has just come out of the oven. So all I have to do is get to Trafaria, take the ferry, five minute walk and start having my morning coffee in Belém!

And you know Lobo I used to work for Benfica... Shared a box with Michel Preud'homme after he retired. Still go to the odd game - I'll be at the Liverpool match in Feb.

BTW small coffee, cream croisant, reading a Bola for the Benfica news all before work - or something like that. Hey I'm not a translator you know. Tha's my wife's job!

Sher Jan 25th, 2006 07:28 PM

Thanks. I thought warm was the best way also.

Matt_from_England Jan 27th, 2006 08:29 AM

Okay so in the shops:

Buy Extra virgin olive oil: very cheap compared to back home. Just take it on as hand luggage and not in the suitcase...

Vintage Port. Again so much cheaper than back home and even in the supermarkets will you find thirty or forty year old varieties.

A bottle of Aguardente - a very strong local brandy: be careful it is like firewater.

A bottle of Vinho Verde. Not green in colour but referring to the fact that it very young and slightly sparkly - acidic too. Serve really well chilled, perfect with fish and seafood.

A bottle of Ginjinha which is a sweet liquor made from some small fruit like cherries. Sometimes drunk from a cup made of dark chocolate.

Madeira wine. Not unlike Port, sweet and smooth and thick.

Next, table wine reccomendations for your evening meal...

Matt

isabel Feb 2nd, 2006 05:38 PM

Matt - thanks for this thread, it's great. Some questions for you (and the other Lisbon experts) - I'm planning on being there this coming July. At first I was thinking about 6 days and then I'd move on to my next destination. But the more I research, the more there seems to be. So now I'm thinking 10-12 days. Does that sound like too much? It seems most tourists only spend 3-4 days. Also, can you recommend any centrally located hotels under €100 (under €80 would be even better). I'll be traveling alone so it has to be somewhere safe and easy to get around from. Thanks

TeresaJAT Feb 2nd, 2006 05:50 PM

Thanks Matt for all the great info. and everyone else too. We will arrive is Lisbon on May 28th and be visiting Portugal for three weeks. Plan to rent a car and try to sample the whole country. I'm just starting our planning. Have my Fodors, Green Guide and Rick Steves'. For our last couple of trips, I have found this website as important if not more so than the books. Your discussion of the Festa de Stº Antonio has me thinking we would do better to plan our trip so our time in Lisbon will be on the tail end of our trip. We leave the 20th. We could spend the last eight days in Lisbon and do day trips using public transportation and have the car for the first two weeks? Is that a good division of time? Thanks for sharing!

Matt_from_England Feb 3rd, 2006 05:41 AM

Isabel, hi.

I haven't actually stayed in any Lisbon hotels but I now of one on Avenida de Liberdade called Hotel Dom Sancho -

http://www.domsancho.com/index.html

I only know this hotel for I did the website for it many years ago, though it has been changed somewhat since. It was a family run business in a good location close to Metro stations etc and very convenient for downtown. The prices I recall (from 5 years ago) were reasonable but I don't know what they are now. Please note this is not a reccomendation nor am I in anyway connected with them. But worth checking out.

With regard to the amount of time it depends if you like to rush or take things leisurely. I've been here a decade and haven't seen everything. For me it's nice to take lunch with a half bottle of wine in one the restaurants with tables on the streets, watching the people walk past. Portuguese food can be heavy and filling and "doze inducing" especially with the red, so a coffee to finish and then a slow afternoon before going to Bairro Alto for the night. For instance Belem you can spend one day, as with Sintra. A couple of days downtown, a day on the beach in costa, it all adds up. I'd say ten days is fine then go on elsewhere.

Of course feel free to email and I'll help the best I can.

Take care

Matt


isabel Feb 3rd, 2006 09:03 AM

Thanks for the offer to email you Matt, I probably will with questions as I get further into my planning. Right now I am just trying to map out how long I want so I can buy my airline tickets in the next couple of months. You mention several day trips - Obidos, Marvão, Santarem, and Ericeira - all of which (plus Evora) I would like to take. But I will definitly not be renting a car so will have to be by public transportation. So how hard will it be for someone who does not speak Portuguese (I will of course learn basic phrases, but obviously will not be able to really actually speak or understand it)? I've been to a lot of Europe and am fairly comfortable traveling around, but less so when I'm alone (which I will be on this trip) and I've never been to Portugal or Spain (going to Barcelona in March) so am not familiar with the type of public transportation there. If you think these days trips sound reasonable given my limitations than I will definitly plan on about 10 days. Thanks for your advice.

Sher Feb 3rd, 2006 09:20 AM

Isabel. Something I think worth mentioning.
Many of the restaurants have half portion meals. I traveled with my husband, but sometimes we would each order a half portion and thought the servings were very generous. Both of us are healthy eaters.

Matt_from_England Feb 3rd, 2006 09:43 AM

Yes indeed Sher - half portion is called a &quot;meia dose&quot; Pronounce phonetically something like <i>may er do so</i> for about 2/3 of the full portion price and more than enough for one person. I think budgeting max 10 euros per meal if inc wine is about right and that would include coffee and a dessert to. Many places offer a set &quot;Ementa turistica&quot; tourists menu which will include starter, main, dessert drink and coffee.

For the day trips to narrow things down I would list Sintra, Obidos and Evora. I think Marvao will be hard to get to without a car - even with it is a bit of a pain but well worth it though. If you learn a few basics it will get you far, a lot of people of my generation (33yrs) speak good English here - it is not like Spain where sometimes you will be ignored. I will look into Public transport to the places mentioned, (Sintra is easy though, just a train ride away). I know there are some companies that do day trips and I'll look into that and post details here: should I forget just nag me...

Look foward to speaking soon,

Matt


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