The friendliest place in Paris?
 

I'm in Paris (currently in the rain sitting at Access Academy). Thanks to posts by PalenqueBob and mlaffitte, this morning we headed out to a suburb of Paris called Conflans St. Honorine, where the Seine and Oise Rivers come together northwest of Paris. It's a quaint little town with perhaps hundreds of barges as the whole town seems to be inhabited by barge drivers and many live in converted barges docked five and six deep along the promenade which runs the entire length of town. The posts I read here indicated we wouldn't see a lot of tourists there -- boy, was that comment on the mark. We didn't hear another word of English being spoken anywhere. The Sunday morning market was bustling -- strictly a local affair. After walking the entire length of the town and most of the way back, we stopped at a simple little cafe called "Le Bijou Bar". Seated outside at first we ordered three course menus at 15 euro each. Salad of Lyonnaise sausage and potatoes, veal liver with raspberry vinegar, and tarte tatin for Lee. Tagliatelle with smoked salmon, perfect duck breast and frites, and a cheese plate for myself, all washed down with house Cote du Rhone for 5.40 a half liter. But I digress. When we started to order, the waitress was really taken back that we didn't speak French (despite my attempts to do so, and being ready to order from the menu which I totally understood). She wanted someone to speak English, so brought out the big guy from behind the bar (the owner, her husband?) who proudly said, "welcome gentlemen, do you know what you would like to eat". Seems he had lived in Scotland for a while and was thoroughly pleased to speak a little English. He mentioned how few Americans they see there and how glad they were to see us and welcome us.

Soon it started pouring rain, and we had to move inside as the rain was blowing under the awnings and drowning us and our table. Everyone else had to do the same, and soon we were all elbow to elbow carrying our own wine and dishes into the already filled small dining room. We joined a couple at their table. Some stood at the bar and ate -- it was an instant party, but we seemed to be the only ones who didn't know each other. Obviously the others were all locals and knew each other.

During the course of the meal, two barge drivers had been standing at the bar, literally backed up against us. As they left, one turned and said slowly with a big smile, "Welcome to Conflans. We hope you enjoy your stay here." He extended his hand and shook hands with both of us, then left.

At the end of our meal, the owner came over and insisted that we were special guests and poured us each a sizeable glass of Armagnac -- a very good one! This was for "our special visitors". There was a bit of a joke going on with another couple and finally he poured them some also. I think the deal was that they said they were foreigners too -- from Belgium -- and thought they should have free Armagnac also, and he laughingly obliged them.

So our ugly rainy day outside of Paris turned into one of the warmest and friendliest experiences we've had. This is not to say that Paris has not been friendly also, but this treatment was exceptional. By the way, when we got in a taxi at Gare de Lyon on our arrival in Paris last week, our driver asked if we were English or American. When I said American, he turned around smiled, gave thumbs up, and said "God Bless America." I must say, it was also a welcome reception.

Hi Patrick,

Terrific!

Lucky you.

That's a delightful experience - the kind of thing you can't plan or schedule. I think sometimes that heavily touristed areas tend to 'wear down' the service people, making them not rude or unfriendly but just jaded. It's so good to try a new place that isn't on the beaten path.

This will for sure be a long-lasting memory of your trip to Paris!

Patrick, that indeed was an experience to cherish. It's one of those special moments that makes it all worthwhile.

I remember reading about Conflans("Secret of the Seine"? ) and it's on my one day list. What a nice experience.

How do you reach this? RER?

Hi Patrick,

How did you get there?

Is it accessible by Metro or RER?

Good for you Patrick! Sounds like a lovely day and despite all the talk I've just returned from Europe and have also met only "American friendly" types. It's refreshing to see that we are being held to our politics with hatred. In fact a friend of mine (in town next week), explained to me once that most people look at Americans as if we were children, not quite mature with ideas of saving the rest! She told me that it's just excepted that we are the way we are. Anyway it's one way to look at it.

Here's wishing you the best for the remainder of your holiday!

oops thats NOT BEING HELD

Just found that note. What do you think about this place on a weekday--would it be as much fun?

Thanks for the great report! Sounds really nice. I need to go check this place out... did u take the metro there?

I had downloaded the posts mentioned above about this town and had them with me. You can get more information by doing a search here, I think, but for some reason, I was only able to bring up one of the posts last time I did a search.

We took the RER A in the direction of Cergy. You get off at Conflans-Fin d'Oise. Walk to the end of the platform in the direction you just came from, exit, and walk the block down to the river. Ignore the sign that says "Conflans Centre" and points to the right. That is for cars which have to loop around. Walking, you turn left and walk along the river. It is maybe 10 minutes to the main part of the town. We followed the suggestion of going on Sunday as it is also market day.

The tickets for RER from center of Paris were 3.90 euro each, each way. It takes about 35 minutes from Les Halles/Chatelet.

I just checked the book. The chapter on Conflans doesn't mention the bar but another the Chalands, a hole in the wall named for those large economy-sizzed barges.

Patrick - is that you? Are you the Patrick we met at dinner in Rome? (Martha and Edward from Houston and Vancouver). I (Martha) just registered and am surfing through messages about the Cinque Terre, which I will visit last week in September. Have you been there? (Sorry to go off-topic).

Conflans-holy-honorine
Yvelines (78) - Island of France Altitude 0 m. - 33000 inhabitants - Paris 25 km. - St-Germain 11 km, Pontoise 8 - river Port - "Capital of Shipping"/Access by the RN 184, public transport from the St-Lazare station and line A of the RER.
OFFICE OF TOURISM * OF CONFLANS STE HONORINE AND ITS SURROUNDINGS
1, street Rene Albert, 78700 Conflans-holy-honorine, Tel.. 01.34.90.99.09, telefax: 01.39.19.80.77, Email: [email protected] , www.conflans-tourisme.com - Opened Tuesday at Friday of 10h30 with 12h30 and 14h30 with 17h30, Saturday of 10h30 with 17h30 without interruption, Sunday, Monday and public holidays (of mid-May to semi-seven.) 10h30-12h30 and 14h30-17h30
.

Hello! Yes, Martha, I remember meeting you and your Canadian Mounted Police brother at that little restaurant in Rome. It is the same Patrick!

Yes, have been to Cinque Terre, but it's been several years ago. You'll find my posts among your surfing, I'm sure. We stayed at the Picolo Marina Hotel in Manorola and loved the experience, particularly the full length hike.

Lucky you! This is a great example of what happens when tourists can slow down and enjoy an area a bit off the beaten path. A reason why most places can't be "done" in a day.
so thank you Patrick for giving me another reason to keep going back to Paris (and Rome and munich and a few places I haven't been yet but better go back again once I've been).

Hi Patrick and Lee. So nice of you to share enroute. I added Conflans to my Paris places list after an earlier post and now I've starred it to move it up on the agenda. Continue to enjoy your trip.

I'm planning on taking a couple of people who have never been to Paris, let alone outside the U.S. I think Conflans St. Honorine will sufficiently blow their minds :D