Tell me your "magical" experiences in Budapest, Vienna and Prague.
 

I'm traveling with DH to Budapest, Vienna and Prague for 2 weeks on May 18. I have been preparing my itinerary and believe I have a grasp of what the "typical tourist" schedule might look like. Now what I'm interested in knowing from Fodor travelers are what were the moments that truly enriched your travel experience in these three cities. To me, as to many, the things I tend to reflect on most once I'm home from my trip are the special, possibly unplanned, moments that have occurred, not the sights I've checked off a list of "must-sees." While seeing the Sistine Chapel is valuable, so is watching a group of local youths play soccer on the small beach in Vernazza while the sun slowly sets. So now as I look forward to my next trip, I would love to know what enriched Budapest, Vienna or Prague for you. If it was a tourist site, what about it was special for you?
Thanks for sharing.

In Vienna, several special moments:

1. Happening onto a concert Sunday morning at St. Stephen's Cathedral. *Heavenly* music!

2. Getting standing room tickets at the opera. Three euros! And a daytime tour of the opera house.

3. Wander into any interesting coffee house and savor the moment.

4. Very special to me for professional reasons, and also moving for my DH: visiting the Freud Museum (Freud's former apartments/offices). Near the university. I felt well worth the trip. A special inexpensive gift I've given to a number of people is a pen from the Freud Museum.

bookmarking

Watching the sun set over the vineyard covered hills around Sievering outside Vienna at Weinhof Zimmermann, while sipping some excellent Gruner Veltliner wine. Having a late dinner on New Year's Eve while watching the fireworks colorfully light up Vienna at restaurant Englehart in Heiligenstadt, while most of the other patrons waltzed in the New year.

budapest.. sitting in spoon café, (moored floating restaurant) with a drink admiring the lit up chain bridge every night before walking to our marriot ex. apartment a couple short blks away..

For Vienna, it'll have to be the Kuntshistorisches Museum - specifically, the Bruegel room.

Also, being inside the Großer Musikvereinssaal of the Musikverein.

Here's my trip report to Vienna if you're interested:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34905605

Vienna - The Belvedere Museum (formerly a palace, of course). Naschmarkt.

Budpest - The hills of Buda - see them from the Pest side, and then go to them and walk, walk, walk (not just in the Castle Hill district but the small streets surrounding it).

Architecture - End of 19th centurey architecture and Art Nouveu buildings all over the place - some in disrepair and ready to be restored and some already restored. Just the number of them!

The Opera House - See something there, it's wonderful to go out on the balcony with a drink at intermission with all the other Budapesters (ians?).

For Prague, one would be the December morning that my teenaged daughter and I got up early and walked up to the castle with our SLR cameras and shot rolls of film before the tourists arrived. It had 'iced' the night before, and the castle guards were having to spread salt on their paths so they would not slip as they marched for the changing of the guard. These normally stony-faced lads were making faces at each other and sneaking some smiles. We caught some of their antics on camera. Then we slipped and slid our way down the 'back' staircase, gripping the handrail for dear life.

Vienna-the Belvedere museum was indeed magical, I never liked Klimt before I actually saw the real "The Kiss" but more importantly, who knew Klimt did landscape art, on the order of a Pizarro? I didn't. Also learning more about the art of Egon Schiele, whom I believe to be underrated as an artist.

Also, walking through the City Park last May on an absolutely gorgeous afternoon, everyone out, going to the 19th century cafe on the grounds and having an "Eiskaffe."

Budapest-loved it-the onion spires of the ancient churches, walking along the Danube, having an excellent meal at a romantic restaurant down from Gellert Hill, (Arany Kaviar) going to a Bach organ concert in the beautiful St. Matthias church, being impressed by the Byzantine architecture, and the setting, so ideal for such a concert.

My favorite experience in Budapest, however, was going down, down, down into the ancient 13th century "FAUST wine cellar" which once belonged to the Dominican Order, and when getting to the bottom, being surprised and amazed to see this small cave-like room, lit with candles, and benches, with soft New Age music playing, and some of the most excellent wines I've had anywhere in the world mine for the asking, to sample and drink, for a mere 2 Euro or so, in this incredibly atmospheric setting. Wonderful experience, and highly recommended.

Prague, just walking the city and drinking in the views from the Charles Bridge, then having an excellent fish meal behind Wenceslas Square in a restaurant built along the ruins of an ancient medieval church during an unrushed and beautiful afternoon last May.

Budapest: Watching the sunset from Fisherman's Bastion. The play of lights on the city and river was magical!

Vienna: The Kunsthistorische Museum - not just for its outstanding collection, but the breathtaking murals by Klimt surrounding the central stairway.

Prague: Wandering around pretty much any where!

Enjoy!

Budapest - sitting in our corner room at the Hotel Victoria - with an incredible view from floor to ceiling windows over the river to the Parliment Building.
We did this every night after sightseeing, enjoying wine we bought at a shop right up the street from the hotel.
It was a truly wonderful way to end the day! http://www.victoria.hu/

Prague - Can't say any one experience was "magical" as we loved our entire stay there...it was our favorite over the three you lisited.

Have a wonderful trip.

Shadowing your post...we're going to Budapest, Vienna and Prague on May 17th. Flying into Budapest and taking the train to Vienna then on to Prague.

The thing is, the typical tourist things are so incredible in these cities.
Budapest:
Walking up Gellert hill (via the most difficult route, as is our want)--it was 90 degrees and the cafe at the top provided the most refreshing beer ever. Walking down as the sun set...

Prague:
While taking the train to Kutna Hora to see the ossuary, we got off at the wrong stop. We just had to wait a while for the next train, so we cat and people watched. Sitting at the train station overlooking Kutna Hora was also memorable in an inexplicable way.
In the city, I enjoyed the park by the river.

In Budapest while walking along the gravel/grass pathway next to the Danube and finding the bronze shoes of Holocaust victims who had fallen into the river at the hands of the Nazis. Then turning around and walking back down the path towards the Chain Bridge and see the lights of the bridge come on...the experience was both moving and magical.

I loved the Vienna cafes, and the wonderful art museums.

Can I ask about the wine bar in Budapest, girlspytravel? That sounds nice and very close to where I'm staying. But I read somewhere that the dresscode is formal? Would it be weird just to stroll in as a single person, casually dressed, and just get a drink?

We had some magical experiences climbing up through the gardens in Vienna at Schonbrunn Palace. It was incredible despite the weather. We have some great photos from that excusion, but this is a personal opinion.

Budapest- swimming in the Szechenyi baths and have rain shower happen...it was great...the water was warm and wonderful.

The Danube curve at sunset...beautiful!

Have a wonderful time. I was there a year ago May...very jealous that you're going.

JoeTro-this is not a wine bar, but a wine tasting cave-with the best of the best Hungarian red and white wines.

Heard it was formal? I think you must be thinking of some other place-nothing formal about a small 13th century crypt-like room -you most assuredly can go down there dressed anyway you like, and going by yourself is not only okay, you can sit and talk with the guy who is pouring the wines, and discuss the wines as you're tasting them. It's great-you feel like you're in a dungeon-it wasn't used for that-it was a monastery back in this period-but it is really ancient-and you feel that atmosphere. Loved it, and of course I'll go back, I have to try more wines!

Thanks, girlspy. I got the formal dress information from Hilton's website:

http://tinyurl.com/2woddx

but thought it odd.

In any event, it sounds like a very nice setting for good wine and would give me a chance to explore the Hilton which sounds nice too.

I love this thread. It brings out what is special about travel. Not the pre-planned list of must-sees, but the little moments that are nevertheless memorable.

Bookmarking as, I too, am going to Budapest and Prague in May. It sounds like it might be very crowded! Some great suggestions.

Prague. The Church of St Cyril and Methodicus.
This is where the assassins of Heydrich were finally trapped and.....
Well the story is well told in the film Operation Daybreak. There is a small museum and the crypt is just like it was when it all happened. A very good outing for a half day trip in Prague.

A cup of coffee at the Bellavista Restaurant in the Strahovský Cloister overlooking the top of Prague Castle (and everything else). I have never enjoyed a view like it anywhere. The monastary itself is worth a look too(especially the libray). Fortunately, we hit it at 3:00 pm when it was empty and had a choice of tables without having to get dinner (which looked sublime but pricey as can be).

Thanks to everyone who has shared so far. These are great! Your memories are adding fuel to my anticipation of my trip. Keep them coming!

My favourite has to be Prague Castle at dusk in the winter time. It is truly breathtaking.

Hardly a hidden gem, but it really is "magical"

Also drinking very strong Czech beer, with a couple of students in a small pub not far from the bus station....aaah that takes me back

In Prague- St Vitus Cathedral. I'm not an overly religious person but when I walked into the sanctuary, with the sun shining through the upper windows, I felt as if I was in the presence of God. Also, walking along Kampa Island just after a rain shower. It was so fresh and green.

In Budapest: Coming across the decorated cows that were scattered about the city last summer. You never knew where you'd find one and it was just fun. Walking down the middle of the street going over the Chain Bridge. It's closed to vehicular traffic on the weekends. We had stopped to take in the night lights around the Fisherman's Bastion and St Matyas when I noticed the cloud formations over the church. Quite heavenly. Finally, coming across a tiny old lady selling her crocheted doilies and embroidery while we strolled through Városliget Park. She was so sweet.

How odd, I just looked at the Faust Wine Celler website that you provided, Joe, and all I can say is, I was just there a year and a half ago, and between the Austrians and myself and the college dude in jeans who was pouring wine, there was nobody in a white jacket, or dressed to the nines-perhaps they've decided to spiff it up a bit? However, there is no way I would go formally dressed to that place-that's nutty-it's too small, and like I said, it's a 13th century monastery cell, with benches-very tiny-why would one get formally dressed for that place-that makes me laugh!

I can tell you that if I make a faux pas it would not be the first time, especially while traveling. I'll go casual and see how things go and report back. Thanks for the suggestion.

Prague:
-Malostranske Namesti and the view from the top of Nerudova.
-Walking the streets of Stare Mesto early in the morning (before all the other tourists get in the way)
-Staropramen

Budapest:
-Daytrip to Szentendre!
-Coffee at Ruszwurm
-The cupola of the Saint Stephen's Basilica
-Chain bridge at night
-Szechenyi baths
-The gardens on Margit-sziget.

Vienna:
Never been to Vienna, but I love Bratislava, so...
-Daytrip to Bratislava

In Vienna, it was special for me to see the legendary Lippizzaners performing in their amazingly beautiful winter arena. Something I'd wanted to see since I was a pre-teen. It lived up to all expectations. We also toured the stables, to see behind the scenes.
:)>-

Budapest...Eastern Europe's version of the city of lights.

Of course there is nothing that compares to the Lanc Hid (Chain Bridge) lit up at night. Just standing and admiring what a beautiful city my parents once called home.

Szent Endre- take the green Hev. An artists community along the banks of the Danube. Quaint and charming.

The elderly people. The expression on their faces, you can see the years of hardship and the years of happiness all rolled up into one in their smiles, and their giving nature. Get to the country side for a real experience in kindness. It is a city/country of beauty.

Enjoy :>

bookmarking

Great thread!

We're headed to those cities soon as well...just trying to decide whether to do Budapest before Prague, or save it for last. Any thoughts? (We're flying in/out of Vienna...)

do budapest before prague

In Budapest, sitting at the outdoor restaurant/bar at the Hotel Gellert and looking over the river and the city on a warm evening with strolling musicians serenading.

Vienna: Enjoying a wonderful sausage at the "Würstelstand" sausage stand with a great beer and just watch the people and actions around me. Hillarious!

Prague: Sitting at the train station, waiting for a train and listening to the announcers. One of the nicest never ending melodies I've ever heard.

Enjoy and then let us know what YOUR magical experiences were.

KarinMarina, WHICH Prague train station did you find magical? I've been in both and am trying to imagine the scene.

Budapest:

Aimlessly walking around on our first day, enjoying the beauty of the city and marvelling that we were in Budapest.

The beautiful views of the Danube from Fisherman's Bastion, both by day and night.

An unexpectedly delicious pizza and local brewed beer at the Cafe Korona on our last day in Budapest (my sister was hankering for something other than traditional fare by this point, although I couldn't get enough of it.)

Strolling around Fisherman's Bastion one evening and being stopped by a couple young local boys (10-12yo?) who wanted to practice their English and chat about Canada (where we're from).

Being inside St Stephen's Basilica when it was aglow with the sunlight streaming in the windows. The natural lighting in this building is amazing.

The Holy Right Relic - most of the folks we saw simply glanced and moved along (perhaps more used to mummified artifacts than we were), so when we stopped to ask about the relic, the guard seemed genuinely thrilled to explain its significance and history. His enthusiasm and warmth made it a special experience.

A ballet gala at the Opera House. The performance itself was magical and wow, were we overwhelmed with the grandeur of the building! It was our first visit to a true opera house (we have theatre and symphony in our home city but no opera) so had not seen such opulence in a performance hall.

All fabulous cities, especially Prague and Budapest.
Take time to go to a classical music concert in a church.It is a great way to relax and sit after a long day on your feet, listening to great music in a magical setting.
We also loved the Spoons restaurant..went there for coffee and dessert and drank in the view of the castle and the bridge. It is a floating restaurant moored on the Danube.
Saturday concert at the Liszt museum in Budapest..
Dinner at a Rathaus near St.Stephens ina quiet courtyard in Vienna.
The incredibly moving story of the Czech patriots who assassinated Reinhardt Heydrich at the Church
of St.Cyril in Prague.
Attending a Dvorak concert at the Opera House in Prague.
And in every city ducking into a cozy cafe for a late afternoon pick me up of cappuchino and local pastry to regroup and just watch the locals.
Enjoy... there are so many little moments that make a trip memorable.

Yes, as was said, in these three locations touristy things (like touring castles, sipping coffee, attending concerts, strolling streets) are just fine. And in each city you can indeed walk or take public transportation.

Last poster speaks of concerts in churches and restaurants...and others have mentioned trips to nearby places.
As to this, I'd recommend out of Prague Dvorak summer house at Vysoka u Primari and Nosalov village, out of Budapest Danube cruise to Szentendre and Holloko village, out of Vienna Baden spa town.

Yes, to Prague castle & Strahov Monastery, yes to Budapest fine art museum at Hero's Sq., and yes to Vienna opera house with standing room tickets.

ozarksbill
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