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Oct 14 – Chiavenna to Varenna
We had breakfast, checked out of the hotel and rolled our luggage to the train station to buy our 9:35 am ticket to Varenna – 59min – connection in Colico - €8.40 for both. I had read a lot of comments about Varenna and the crowds, but anyways, it was on the route to Milan which would be a shorter trip to take the flight back to the US than returning to Zurich. So, we took the risk and booked the Bed & Breakfast il Bolentino, which was a shorter walk in those up and down steps of Varenna. It was good enough for 1 night and a 5-minute walk from the station. In fact, we didn’t have problems finding seats on the train in, and out (the next morning) of Varenna. And also, when we took the ferry to Menaggio, the line was ok. I noticed that the line to Bellagio was a bit bigger. Maybe the kind of cloudy day made a difference. We dropped our luggage at the B&B and went for a coffee (€13.20) across the street. Then we walked to the Ferry terminal area to check and buy the ticket to Menaggio. We took the 11:55 ferry (€9.20 each return). We strolled around the town and along the lake for a bit and had a pizza for lunch. Then we took the 14:20 ferry back to Varenna (15min) and went to the B&B to check in. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...37d988095e.jpg Arriving at Varenna-Esino train station https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a05f446ef7.jpg Some coffee and pastries in front of our B&B https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...623c0fd293.jpg Walking around Varenna https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7767f79f69.jpg Ferry arriving in Menaggio https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cf3fb8c92f.jpg Strolling around Menaggio https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...86f4f8ea73.jpg Strolling around Menaggio https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4cf68a9f01.jpg Santa Marta church in Menaggio https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...163b0a98c1.jpg Walking along the waterfront in Menaggio https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f8880ff02a.jpg View of Varenna from the ferry https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2f0903c22b.jpg View of Varenna from the ferry https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb6ccf19a5.jpg View of Varenna from the ferry Our plan for the rest of the afternoon was to visit Villa Monastero, which has beautiful gardens alongside the lake and stunning views (€9 each over 65 for both house and gardens). We started walking in the direction of Villa Monastero capturing the lovely views of the town. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b2d44b9f7.jpg Varenna https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4450e5e9b7.jpg Beautiful views from Varenna https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f3a9a89499.jpg Varenna https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0b28e85701.jpg At the beautiful Villa Monastero https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8adcd1f000.jpg Stunning views of Lake Como from Villa Monastero https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8a603f2a56.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f7409bff4.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bb5cc5d8ea.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2137a28cbd.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c0ff73d8f.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66a31b037f.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0edcc04fb.jpg Villa Monastero https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e69ed6b1f.jpg View from Villa Monastero After that we continued wandering around and started to check some restaurants to decide where we were going to have dinner. We picked a small restaurant - La Scarpetta - that was going to open at 6 but didn’t take reservations. There were a few people starting to line up in front, so we decided to stay. We enjoyed our meal and the service was fast. DH had the Fettuccine Alfredo con porcini, I had the Raviolini alla zucca, a shared tiramisu, a glass of wine, water, coperto, total €57. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9186884a0b.jpg Wandering around Varenna. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56985a349f.jpg DH's Fettuccine alfredo con porcini. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...067f0026f6.jpg My Raviolini alla zucca. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a704efc107.jpg Our tiramisu https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f56726dc6f.jpg Strolling around a bit more in Varenna. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6f818949c9.jpg Enjoying some more of the beautiful views of the evening. |
I really enjoyed reading about Varenna and looking at your photos. We spent 4 nights in Varenna last June. We had a mixture of rain (from drizzly to pouring rain) and sun during our stay, and we noticed there never were any lines to buy tickets and to board the ferry in Varenna or Menaggio. We talked to a young couple who had come on the train one morning from Milan, and they told us the train was empty. I am sure this is because of the rain. So, rain can be a good thing sometimes! :)
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Still enjoying your report. While Switzerland has been on our minds for a few years now, your report is a factor for us considering going this June.
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17704995)
I really enjoyed reading about Varenna and looking at your photos. We spent 4 nights in Varenna last June. We had a mixture of rain (from drizzly to pouring rain) and sun during our stay, and we noticed there never were any lines to buy tickets and to board the ferry in Varenna or Menaggio. We talked to a young couple who had come on the train one morning from Milan, and they told us the train was empty. I am sure this is because of the rain. So, rain can be a good thing sometimes! :)
I agree that rain and clouds can be a good thing sometimes and applied well for Varenna. 😊 |
I’ve really enjoyed reading about your holiday, sounds like you had a wonderful time!
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Originally Posted by tripplanner001
(Post 17705010)
Still enjoying your report. While Switzerland has been on our minds for a few years now, your report is a factor for us considering going this June.
Today I saw your thread about your questions and considerations about this trip and when I read the information, the links with maps and pictures of Sils and that region, I sighed, longing for this happiness again… I’m excited about your trip! |
Originally Posted by dreamon
(Post 17705105)
I’ve really enjoyed reading about your holiday, sounds like you had a wonderful time!
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Oct 15 – Varenna to Milan
After breakfast, we rolled our luggage back up to the train station to buy our tickets. We took the 9:35 am train to Milano Centrale (€11.80 for both – 1h05m). Today there were more people at the station, but we found seats without a problem, although when the train departed it looked full. Arriving at Milan Central station we looked for the spot to get an Uber to go to the hotel (€14.75). When we arrived at the Hotel Gran Duca di York to drop our luggage (before 11:30 am), they let us check in, which was perfect. Although we were in the hotel for just one night, we really enjoyed our stay. Our room and bed were very comfortable; as a treat there was a thick and delicious chocolate bar in the room. The staff is nice and helpful, breakfast is very good, and we also had the time to taste the complimentary prosecco with snacks at the happy hour. The hotel is also in a convenient location and soon we were out, looking for some coffee and pastry before heading to the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the Duomo di Milano. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...adb8549814.jpg Walking around Milan https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5c77fe1dfb.jpg Milan https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d591b86107.jpg Walking through the beautiful Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c7fc1153dd.jpg At Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. We bought the ticket for the cathedral only (€8 each on Wednesdays – the cathedral museum is closed on Wed). Then we went to the line and in 13 minutes we entered. The Duomo is a landmark of Milan, with its stunning Gothic architecture, beautiful stained-glass windows, and astonishing sculptures inside and out. The construction began in 1386 and continued for nearly six centuries, with final details completed in 1965. The most famous statue, “Saint Bartholomew Flayed”, is remarkable. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...995bd45823.jpg The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II seen from the Piazza del Duomo https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d2c8d49e4b.jpg Duomo di Milano https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c811568981.jpg Beautiful sculptures of saints and other Biblical figures on the facade of the cathedral. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a1b2fc558e.jpg Piazza del Duomo https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6b382fba9d.jpg Beautiful stained glass https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e75e7e361a.jpg Duomo interior https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a8f4523f7d.jpg Duomo interior https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...34dc1f3a8a.jpg Duomo interior https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b991091899.jpg The strikingly realistic, anatomically detailed sculpture of Saint Bartholomew Flayed. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6178c8093d.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...155523aa6e.jpg Beautiful stained glass https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5b4a1430d.jpg Beautiful sculptures on the facade of the cathedral. After that we walked to Brera, a charming neighborhood with shops and cafes where we found a restaurant, Il Cestino, to have a relaxing lunch watching the elegant Milanese stroll by. We were looking for some steak, so we shared the filetto scottona, the mozzarella and cherry tomatoes, the grilled vegetables and a bottle of water (€63.50 including coperto €7). https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b9dab720a.jpg Pretty shop window https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...faa40b8b81.jpg Walking in Brera, a charming neighborhood https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...96a2120f4b.jpg Our lunch at restaurant Il Cestino in Brera https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...567f2b6fc6.jpg Our lunch at restaurant Il Cestino in Brera https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e5ed73bc9f.jpg Our lunch at restaurant Il Cestino in Brera After lunch, we headed to the Castelo Sforzesco and spent some time wandering around Parco Sempione. Near the castle fountain we bought some roasted chestnuts and sat on a bench enjoying the sunny afternoon. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c54c713d36.jpg Sforza Castle https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...265435350b.jpg Roasted chestnuts in front of the Sforza Castle https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dc1ec6608b.jpg Sforza Castle https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8bcbf7c6ef.jpg Wandering around Parco Sempione On the way back, we stopped by the Decathlon store and then went to the hotel to enjoy the happy hour and rest. Later we went out and had dinner at Vero Sapore Greco. We like Greek food, but that was not a good choice. On the way back to the hotel, we strolled around the Duomo again to get some night pics. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...710b4e34b6.jpg Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II at night. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...01c58ee766.jpg Duomo di Milano at night. |
Very much enjoying your report, which has given me more than a few ideas for future travel!
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Milan is beautiful. Been too long since I was there.
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I agree with tripplanner001. Milan is beautiful, and I think it's underrated. We spent a total of 4 nights there: 3 at the beginning of our trip and one night at the end. We enjoyed staying at Hotel Gran Duca di York.
Leifields, we also really enjoyed the complimentary prosecco with snacks during Happy Hour! Especially love your photo of those exquisite cakes! And the Milan Duomo is stunning! Did you go up on the rooftop? |
Fra_Diavolo – I’m glad this report is being helpful for you. Thanks for your comment.
tripplanner001 – Thanks for still following this report. I had been in Milan once for a couple of hours in one tour bus in 1998… |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17705353)
I agree with tripplanner001. Milan is beautiful, and I think it's underrated. We spent a total of 4 nights there: 3 at the beginning of our trip and one night at the end. We enjoyed staying at Hotel Gran Duca di York.
Leifields, we also really enjoyed the complimentary prosecco with snacks during Happy Hour! Especially love your photo of those exquisite cakes! And the Milan Duomo is stunning! Did you go up on the rooftop? I didn’t visit the Duomo’s rooftop because I was insecure of having to walk on uneven paths and the number of steps to descend on a narrow stone staircase. I saw the fabulous pictures you got on your TR! |
You’ve had a lovely trip, with a great variety of experiences. I’ve really enjoyed following along.
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Originally Posted by Adelaidean
(Post 17705479)
You’ve had a lovely trip, with a great variety of experiences. I’ve really enjoyed following along.
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Bookmarking. Great report, thanks for taking the time.
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Oct 16 – Milan
We had a good breakfast at the hotel and went out to a couple of stores where I wanted to buy cotton T-shirts: Zara and Uniqlo (with much better prices than in the US). Then, we went back to the hotel to check out and store our luggage. After that, we just walked around the corner to visit the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana (€15 each over 65). We enjoyed the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana a lot and were there for a couple of hours. My favorites were the works of Brueghel. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a659afb7c6.jpg Pinacoteca Ambrosiana https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...06a7bb5858.jpg Beautiful sculptures https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f9edea1173.jpg La Sacra Conversazione https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9e6cee6b54.jpg Brueghel's painting https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1f122b6cd8.jpg Brueghel's Vase of Flowers with Jewel, Coins and Shells https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...35629bc581.jpg Brueghel's Vase of Flowers with Jewel, Coins and Shells - detail https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b18e9b901e.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a13f6757f3.jpg Pinacoteca Ambrosiana https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ae3ddc21c0.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...744aa3454c.jpg Madonna of the Pavillon by Botticelli Sandro https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...226b644110.jpg Portrait of a Musician - Leonardo da Vinci https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e43a19d41.jpg Federiciana Hall where you see the Codex Atlanticus After that, we went out looking for a place to have a quick sandwich on the way, and stopped for a last gelato too. We were heading to the Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, a church with extraordinarily beautiful frescoes from the 16th-century. We enjoyed the visit a lot. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e91887c972.jpg Gelato! https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40bfb4b6b8.jpg Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7c1ba5114e.jpg Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2091b80473.jpg Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c2bda4e50e.jpg Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db46b4fabc.jpg Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b2eb0419a7.jpg Chiesa di San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore We were finishing what we had planned to do in almost two days in Milan. So, we started heading back and passed by the Palazzo Imperiale di Massimiano – “an ancient palace dating back to the 3rd century, built during the reign of Augustus Maximilian when Milan was the capital of the Western Roman Empire.” Also, we did a quick visit to the Chiesa Santa Maria Preso di San Satiro and went to the hotel to pick up our luggage. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3a9642ef8e.jpg Site of the ancient Palazzo Imperiale di Massimiano https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...81d5dfbcf5.jpg Chiesa Santa Maria Preso di San Satiro Our flight back to the US was tomorrow at 9:45 am and it would be better to be in a hotel near Malpensa Airport to avoid stress. It was around 4:45 pm and we were ready to leave. The hotel concierge called a taxi (€10.60) for us, and we went to Milano Cadorna train station. We bought our tickets for the Malpensa Express train to Malpensa Airport (€30 for both). It is a busy train and about 38 minutes ride. Arriving at the airport, we looked for the location for hotel shuttle pickups. It wasn’t very well signposted. And then, we had problems calling our hotel number. It wouldn’t work (I think we weren’t entering the codes correctly). So, we entered a hotel at the airport and asked for help, and they graciously called our Cardano Hotel Malpensa, and the shuttle came (a 10-minute ride - €5 each). We got settled in our room and went out for a 2-minute walk to Mastro Pizza – it was a fun, easy place to go and the pizza is very good! They have a good selection of tasty pizzas for a good price. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d55bd2074.jpg Our very good pizza at Mastro Pizza! Oct 17 – Malpensa Airport to the US We got up early, had breakfast at the hotel and then took the 10-minute shuttle ride to Malpensa Airport - €5 each. The flight back home was ok, except for the arrival at Newark Airport to make our connection. The lines for immigration were big and the ones for security were a bit chaotic with the agents making changes in the lines two or three times. We really had a wonderful time and loved all the places we visited. I thank all who read this report and joined me. Happy travels! |
Wow! You certainly did a lot on your last day in Milan. The Pinacoteca Ambrosiana looks fantastic! I can't believe we didn't go there. And that Monastero Maggiore is gorgeous! The problem is my husband can only handle a certain amount of art museums and churches. Then he goes into overload.
When we were in Italy last May, we purchased our tickets with miles, which I won't do again. I think we took the same flight as you to Newark. And then we had to get our luggage, find luggage re-check, walk and then train to the domestic terminal, and walk some more, go through security, and a long walk to our gate for our flight home to Boston. We almost missed our flight. It was awful. At the Milan Airport, our line was next to a line of passengers who were on the direct flight to Boston. How I was wishing at the time that we were on that flight. I don't want to ever go through Newark again:lol: So now we are using our miles for hotels. |
That was a pretty lengthy final day of activity. I, too, will be catching an early flight out of Malpensa on my way back home in May. Had some Marriott points and used those to book the Sheraton. I will also be staying at Hotel Gran Duca Di York on arrival, so glad to hear that you liked it.
You did a very good, detailed report. Thanks for sharing. |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17705686)
Wow! You certainly did a lot on your last day in Milan. The Pinacoteca Ambrosiana looks fantastic! I can't believe we didn't go there. And that Monastero Maggiore is gorgeous! The problem is my husband can only handle a certain amount of art museums and churches. Then he goes into overload.
When we were in Italy last May, we purchased our tickets with miles, which I won't do again. I think we took the same flight as you to Newark. And then we had to get our luggage, find luggage re-check, walk and then train to the domestic terminal, and walk some more, go through security, and a long walk to our gate for our flight home to Boston. We almost missed our flight. It was awful. At the Milan Airport, our line was next to a line of passengers who were on the direct flight to Boston. How I was wishing at the time that we were on that flight. I don't want to ever go through Newark again:lol: So now we are using our miles for hotels. Unfortunately, we also depend on flights with connections, but I always try to get with only one. Airports and flights are becoming so difficult to choose. But we need to keep travelling… Thanks for reading along and all your nice comments! |
-Brian_in_Charlotte – Thanks for your comment.
-twk – I hope you have a great trip! And thank you very much for your comments. |
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