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Starspinners' rather, sort of trip report
I'd been harboring illusions about posting my first ever Fodors trip report, however, I've just read PLMN's report of her recent trip to Italy and now my illusions are shattered. Her report is full of incidents and accidents, hints and allegations; it's so funny and interesting. I can't even attempt to write anything remotely as amusing.
OK, so in my report I will just stick to the facts and will toss in a few of my personal observations. :-) Here're the basics: 1. I returned from London on Nov. 3 after having been away from home since Oct. 10. 2. The trip was the 7th annual "girls only" October visit to London. (Sometimes I travel there with my sister, sometimes with a friend, and sometimes solo. My husband, son, and I have been to the UK together, but at other times of the year.) 3. I invited a friend to join me for part of the 2004 trip,this would be her first time in Europe. We decided to spend the first few days in Paris and then made additional plans to visit a French friend who lives in Montpellier. I'd been to Paris before but not to Montpellier. 4. I may post later on about the French portion of our trip, but for now will stick to a few London tidbits. Of course everything was new to my friend ,whom I shall refer to as Ann. She loved the black taxis, I explained how the drivers have to study The Knowledge for 3 years before they can get their cabbie license , she was duly impressed. From that point on Ann was on a mission to spot the would-be-cabbies on scooters as they rode around London writing a detailed description of every street address and the route they took to get there. A funny side note: the cabbie who drove us from Waterloo International to the Morgan Hotel in Bloomsbury wasn't convinced there actually WAS a hotel called the Morgan. Even though I gave him the exact address he questioned if I had meant to say the " Marlborough Hotel" instead of the Morgan. He had never heard of the Morgan ( it's across the street on the diagonal corner from the Marlborough). I laughed and told him I was 99.999 % certain the Morgan was still at # 24 Bloomsbury as I had stayed there for the past 6 years. HE was duly impressed when we pulled up in front of #24 Bloomsbury and I pointed out the Morgan's sign and he laughed, too. Ann and I stayed in the Morgan's annex which is at #40 Bloomsbury... that's the building with the flats. We had the same flat I've always stayed in, it has an entry hall, a sitting room, bedroom, kitchen, water closet with a hand sink, and a decent sized bathroom with a sink. The bedroom can be made up as a twin or as a double. I had hoped the flats would have been refurbished by now, but the Wards, who own and operate the hotel, have been diligently working on the main building for the past 2 years. The main building is all redecorated and refitted. They were just beginning the process of tearing out the basement level rooms in the annex. There are 3 rooms and 4 flats at #40. I have been assured that the work on 'my flat' will be completed before next October. The plan is to turn the existing bathroom into a galley kitchen, turn the existing kitchen into a large bathroom , and to turn the existing W.C. into a closet. I would stay there even if the flat has not been redone ...the location is perfect for me, the Wards are friendly and helpful, and the hotel is spotlessly clean. Breakfast is cooked to order and it's good. The Wards are holding off launching the much anticipated website until all the Morgan's renovations are complete. I can't imagine how difficult it is to keep a hotel operating while it's being renovated. The daily functions of the hotel must go on and the renovations can't impede on the guests' comfort. The Wards are doing an admirable job. My husband and I own a home that was built in 1892, that makes it about 100 years newer than the Morgan. We've lived in the house since 1996 and we've never completely stopped working on it. Redoing the 5 bathrooms caused huge amounts of plaster dust that coated everything and everyone. My costume du jour,for about 4 years, was denim overalls. But I didn't have to keep paying guests happy AND cook breakfast for them while I was in the process of renovating. In fact we had house guests who never got a hot cooked breakfast and who many times were handed a paint brush or a crow bar and put to work. Wow, what good friends we have, and they are still speaking to us! *smile* I've tried to convince myself I should stop telling other people about " my hotel" so that I don't run the risk of finding 'no room at the inn'. :-) However, I will pass along the Morgan's email address, I asked permission to do so. Now people can email [email protected] instead of phoning or faxing for availability and rates. I'll post more later, after lunch, which I sadly have to provide for myself. That's one of the realities of being home , I am the chief cook and bottle washer at my house...so if I want a sandwich and ice tea for lunch, I have to make it myself..no more daily lunches at restaurants..well, until the next vacation. <grin> At least my husband is taking me out to dinner this evening. Judy |
Hi Judy! Thanks for the report.
The flat you stayed in sounds wonderful. I'll have to make of note of it for when I finally make it back to London. Welcome home. |
Thanks Dave,,,you can't have 'my 'flat but there are 3 others to select from. Just kidding. :-)
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Thanks starspinners, don't compare your report with anyone else's. We all have are own style and all are welcome. I stayed in Bloomsbury years ago at the Hotel Crichton. Does it still exist. My B&B there(Draycott Pl.) is now a boutique hotel
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I very much like your trip report so far! Please continue when you have time and don't worry one bit about comparisons to other reports :-)
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Hi ss,
Thanks for sharing. |
Here's my next chapter: " Judy pretends to be a theater critic"
So, what was the first London theater production that I took Ann to see? "Jerry Springer the Opera !" It was in previews in the West End while I was in London last year. I really hadn't thought of seeing it then nor this year either. Well, one of my London friends had bought tickets for him and me to see "Jerry Springer", but when he realized that Ann would be with me he insisted she and I use the tickets instead. It was the raunchiest show I've ever seen. ( I'm not a prude, but I did blush, once or twice. ;-) ) I wanted to hate it, but it was too entertaining . ( How's that for a contradiction in terms? ) The acting and singing are superb, however most of the lyrics are not ones you'll sing aloud to your children. Go see it if you are not easily offended by..well, just about anything! The day I arrived in London, the newspapers were reporting that Richard Dryfuss had dropped out of " The Producers" which was set to open in previews on Oct 22. I don't know all the details of what actually happened, but the newspapers quoted him as saying he had realized he really couldn't dance or sing. I was wishfully thinking it would be great if Nathan Lane could swoosh into London to reprise his Broadway role. He did, he did ! He had something like 4 days to rehearse with the British cast. Ann and I rushed to the box office to buy tickets. We got tickets in the stalls, 6th row center for the first night of the previews. It was the best musical I have ever seen. Had I not know differently I would have thought Nathan Lane and Lee Evans had been performing as a duo for years. That's how good they were. Their timing and on stage chemistry was spot on. I'd never seen either one in person before. Lee Evans put me in mind of a combination young Andy Griffith and Alfred E. Newman. His face is rubbery.. and his physical comedy is wonderful to witness. He can dance and sing, too. The woman who played the role of the bombshell Swedish secretary was great. Wow..what a fun evening that was. Nathan Lane is only going to be in the show for a couple more months, so go see it soon if you can. We had time to see one more production before Ann returned home. This time we chose "Old Masters" with Edward Fox and Peter Bowles. I enjoyed seeing them on stage, but I did think the first act was a bit long and despite the cast the play never seemed to 'click' . The story could have unfolded a bit sooner than it did. On my own I saw a few more productions: "Woman in White"...ummmm, not precisely to my taste. I like musicals with sets . WIW is presented on a bare stage with the scenery projected , I suppose that is matter of personal taste. Michael Crawford is almost unrecognizable in his fat suit costume. That's all I'm going to say..this play will be around for a while I think, because Andrew Lloyd Webber's The Really Useful Group manages the Palace Theatre. "The Solid Gold Cadillac" . The script wasn't terribly funny,( but I got to see Patricia Routledge so I'm happy with that.) However, the audience was full of senior citizens who seemed to be having a wonderful night out. One more... I wanted to end my London trip with a play or musical . The Morgan Hotel guests tend to chat about the theater while we are eating breakfast in the mornings. A couple of them had mentioned " Bat Boy" was worthwhile. I knew very little about the musical, but since it was playing at The Shaftsbury and since the theater is < 10 minute walk from the hotel ( I needed to be ready to leave for the airport before 7 AM the next morning; so I wanted an early evening in order be back at the hotel with plenty of time to commune with my suitcase ) that's what I decided to see. What a pleasant surprise..it was campy, kitschy and the story was original ( well, it's the only West End play about a feral child, at the moment). The singers/dancers were enthusiastic and talented, there were costume changes and there were set changes ( always a good thing, in my book.) The lead character had to sing while doing chin-ups. ( Trust me, this will make sense when you see the play.) Don't put Bat Boy at the top of your list, but do see it if you have a free evening. |
Awww..thank you all for your encouragement. I think I'll talk about food in the next installment. :-)
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Thank you for sharing, SS. I'm enjoying your report.
Judy |
Welcome home, Judy. Sounds like you had your usual good time; I'm only sorry my visit didn't coincide. I did see poor Kavey's smashed face picture.
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Kavey's smashed face? Is she ok?
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Hi cigale,
Yes she is ok. There is a note and posted picture link under the London GTG link. She fell and hit her face on the concrete, suffering several cuts and an injury to her tooth and lip. :-( Fortunately, she is recovering :-) From her account of the whole ordeal, she is quite the optimist!! :-) |
Yikes! Send my best wishes. Where is the url for the London GTG?
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I'm not sure how to post URLs, but it is currently post number 91 and Kavey's account is toward the end of the long post. It is called "possible London GTG October" I believe.
Let me know if you can't find it and I will try my luck at posting an actual thread link (gotta learn sometime!) |
nothing on that post about it happening-and no pictures posted?
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starspinners, I am thoroughly enjoying your sort of trip report :)
I LOVE Lee Evans! The first time I saw him was in the movie Funny Bones, he is a real clown! So glad you had such a good time, and I do know how you feel about having to get your own tea and sandwich now...sigh. Waiting to read more~ |
For cigalechanta
This is everything that happened: Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/27/2004, 01:49 pm Message: Had a most wonderful lunch with Starspinner today at Circus, near Piccadilly Circus. Unfortunately, whilst walking home from my local tube station I tripped, fell hard and was unable to break my fall with my hands. I fell hard on my face (not sure how my glasses survived) but unfortunately lost a tooth near the gum and had to get some stitches to my lip this afternoon. Lip is currently so swollen I look very much like a very bloodied and grazed duck. Sigh! But the GTG was marvellous! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Jolie Date: 10/27/2004, 03:27 pm Message: How terrible! And I feel your pain. I tripped on the edge of a sidewalk once while on vacation in Paris, and I managed to "break my fall" - only to end up with two fractured bones in my hand. It kind of put a damper on the rest of my trip. Fortunately, you had a good GTG first! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: LoveItaly Date: 10/27/2004, 04:39 pm Message: Kavey, how terrible! I had a neighbor/friend take a walk a few months ago (good for ones health so they say) and fell. Splat on her face. Broken glasses, broken nose, stiches needed below nose. I am so sorry. Hope you will recover soon. And just today my daughter told me a friend of hers is in real bad shape. Went to the dentist for some dental work. Do not know what happened, but the dentist BROKE her jaw. Has anyone ever heard of this happening? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/27/2004, 05:38 pm Message: The dentist broke her jaw? Was it on purpose to correct alignment problems or accidental? Eeek! I really look funny. Got hub to take photos when we got home from hospital so will post at some time. Thanks for well wishes... hurts like HECK but given how clumsy I am and have always been it's really not as bad as could easily befall me... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/27/2004, 05:41 pm Message: Am hoping to get an emergency appt with dentist tomorrow as I think something is exposed... it's like that feeling you sometimes get having a hot drink after a spoonful of ice cream but a lot lot worse! Trouble is I don't know if he'll be able to do whatever it is he'll need to do until lip swelling goes down - both in terms of reaching tooth and avoiding resplitting the lip... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: LoveItaly Date: 10/27/2004, 05:54 pm Message: Kavey, ooooh, I am so sorry. I had a big dental problem about 3 years ago. A nightmare. But thanks to a great and carrying dentist all is OK. My wishes that you also have a good dentist. Think we can all relate to what you must be going through. My very best wishes. I am so sorry that you are going through this. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: carolyn Date: 10/27/2004, 07:54 pm Message: Kavey, how terrible! I hope your dentist can help you right away. You may have to rethink meeting with all of us. I slipped once on a slick floor in a hospital of all places and slammed my face on the floor. I got a beautiful Crayola purple eye where my glasses hit my face. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/28/2004, 03:24 am Message: Carolyn, never! And I'm so clumsy it was just a matter of time... I have fallen before but just bruised or grazed myself... Hopefully seeing a dentist friend of family today... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/28/2004, 04:04 am Message: Loveitaly, I'm paranoid about dentists at the best of times as too many people I know seem to end up with dentists who insist they need all sorts of treatment - only to find, on changing to a new one, that it wasn't necessary. Hence I try and see people I know personally which isn't easy as I don't know many dentists!!! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: LoveItaly Date: 10/28/2004, 02:18 pm Message: Kavey, here is a story for you. Our dentist for years was the father of our godson. I had a root canal and of course a cap put on. Suffered for years with pain. Exray after exray and was told by this dentist "nope, nothing wrong". And this dentist was highly respected as one of the "best dentist" in his community I might add. I moved about 30 miles away and consquently got a new dentist. He took Exrays and guess what? The other dentist had left cotton in when he put the cap on! My doctor said it was a wonder I hadn't ended up with an infection of the heart. New dentist took off cap, removed cotton, new cap etc. and WOW I have never had a problem since. Makes me mad to this day. So, think I will stay away from "dentist I know". LOL. I don't think anyone likes going to a dentist. I should never did. But my new dentist is terrific so I don't freak out now when I have an appointment. Oh, also, a friend of my daughters just went to a new dentist as her dentist had retired. New dentist a friend of the family. Her very first visit to him. He was doing a dental procedure and broke her jaw!!! Can you imagine? This post is sure not going to help you relax. But you will be fine I am sure. Again, sure sorry that you had this fall. Take good care of yourself. I have a dental appointment in a few days too. Sigh. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/28/2004, 05:15 pm Message: Ouch! I accept that everyone makes mistakes but a professional and responsible adult would own up to their mistakes and rectify them immediately. Did you report him or feel unable to because of the connection? I had a root canal today. The dentist (who I went to school with but hadn't seen since but whose father is good friends with my father) tried to do a fix that wouldn't necessitate that step but had me wait to see because he didn't know if it would be sufficient. Unfortunately it wasn't and the sensitivity was agonising so he did the root. The local anaesthetic wore off an hour or two ago (after several hours - he gave me a high dose to help with the lip pain too) and BINGO! I can drink cold drinks, eat hot food and cope with air being drawn past the tooth as I breathe in without screaming in my head! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/28/2004, 06:35 pm Message: Here's Bloody Kavey Duck Face: http://www.dpchallenge.com/image.php?IMAGE_ID=116186 It's harder to see quite how hilariously swollen the lip is if you're not used to what I normally look like - I have very small mouth/ lips normally! LOL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Budman Date: 10/28/2004, 08:23 pm Message: I hope you're feeling better, and I'm just glad this didn't happen because you failed to "mind the gap." -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Scarlett ([email protected]) Date: 10/28/2004, 08:27 pm Message: Poor Kavey! Glad you got to see the dentist and are out of pain now. Funny how a root canal doesn't seem so horrible anymore, no? Hope your feel better/look better LOL soon~ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: LoveItaly Date: 10/28/2004, 09:23 pm Message: Kavey, you got the story right. No I did not pursue the "cotton under the cap" with the dentist that is the father on my godson. First of all by the time the cotton was discovered (thanks to my new dentist) the former dentist was retired. If he had still been in practice honestly do not know what I would have done. Other than my terrible experience I had never heard about any other mistakes he did. And he was a good man. Even gave free dental care to people who could not afford to pay for it. Would meet a patient at 2:00am at his office because they had a terrible tooth pain (usually because they had not had dental care for several years). Think the problem that I had was one of those "one in a million" cases. However when I think about 12 years of going "crazy" with the problem it does, I have to confess, make me mad. Agree with Scarlett, root canals are not the big deal they use to be, although for sure noone jumps up and down when they are told they need one. I trust that you will be feeling better, it does sound like you are already on the road to improvement. Take good care of yourself. Best wishes to you. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: starspinners Date: 10/29/2004, 05:31 am Message: Kavey.... I'm just now reading what happened to you after we had lunch on Weds. I'm so sorry your afternoon ended with a bloody lip. You've managed to keep your sense of humor though;so I know you will understand my saying that now I am doubly glad you & I decided to go ahead and order those huge Pavlovas for dessert! Seriously,my dear, my fingers are crossed that you are on the mend soon. I so enjoyed our meeting and hope we can get together next year. By the way, did your new sofa arrive? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/29/2004, 10:34 am Message: Scarlett, my root canal definitely wasn't painful or a problem - the dentist gave me an extra strong dose of local anaesthetic because of the bruising and damage already there so I didn't feel a thing... infact it took several hours for the feeling to come back. And although most dentists in UK apparently still use the older techniques and equipment for root canals my dentist has switched to newer equipment which makes it very quick and easy. LoveItaly, I'm definitely on the mend and glad you too were able to sort out your nightmare problem in the end. At least I only had to wait a day, I think even a week of that pain would have had me pulling my own teeth out let alone 12 years! SS, new sofa was about to be delivered but Pete had to come and get me from where I fell and take me to hospital and that's when they were going to deliver. They called to check he was home and he explained and they were fine. Infact they then called yesterday, not even to reschedule (though I was ready to do that) but to check I was OK as the staff at the warehouse and the delivery team were worried about me. Very sweet. Sofas came this morning, together with flowers from a kind Fodorite friend to cheer me up. And SS I couldn't eat solids on Tuesday evening or Wednesday because the swollen lip meant I couldn't get solids into my mouth or close the mouth to chew so I was on soup and boy was I thinking back to our lovely meal and particularly those rather delicious pavlovas. I really should have taken the bus!!! LOL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 10/29/2004, 10:35 am Message: Budman, sorry I meant to reply to you too - the irony is that I called Pete from the tube (last couple of stops on my route are above ground) and said I was going to take the bus from central finchley but within a couple of mins I changed my mind and proceeded to next stop to walk home - thought it would do me good to walk off the lovely lunch I'd just had! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 11/05/2004, 12:12 pm Message: An update on my lip and tooth: I went to the dentist again today and he checked out the lip too - the cut was totally healed but the stitch thread was still attached so he kindly cut the thread away for me. And when I got home afterwards the last huge remaining scab on my lip came away too. So I feel much less self-conscious now. As for my teeth - he finished the root canal and took the impressions for the crown I'll be getting on the 19th, just before we go away. There's also a small chance the tooth next to the broken one was sufficiently hard hit that the root may also die but it may heal so it's wait and see time. I'm looking almost normal except for some shiny pink new skin - hope it eventually goes brown like the rest of me. In my lip I have this large solid area - doesn't show but feels very strange. Apparently it's down to damage to the saliva glands and will take several months to shrink away. It doesn't hurt so I can live with that. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: starspinners Date: 11/05/2004, 12:22 pm Message: Kavey, I'm so happy that the results of your 'swan dive' are healing. I have thought of you many times since we met for lunch in London , it was such a nice afternoon that ended badly for you. I plan to post the pic the waiter took of us, if that's OK with you. Judy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Author: Kavey ([email protected]) Date: 11/05/2004, 12:44 pm Message: Fine by me! And thanks for thinking of me! |
Judy,
Thanks for sharing your report You make me eager to go back to London. I am SO jealous that you got to see Nathan Lane in the Producers!! |
where are the pictures?
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Kavey, Kavey, Kavey! So sorry to hear of your accident and am glad you're on the mend. Best wishes from your SF Bay Area Fodor friends. Ohhh, you are so brave to post those photos :0)
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Chapter Three: Food for Thought or Thoughts on Food (warning, this is wordy, grab a cup of tea before reading) At home my husband and I eat a nourishing ( but hardly exciting) bowl of oatmeal and/or a piece of fruit for breakfast most mornings. When I stay at the Morgan Hotel in London I tend to eat a larger breakfast than I do at home. Maybe it's because someone else is doing the cooking and cleaning up. Here's what's offered at the hotel: eggs ( poached, scrambled, or fried) ; bacon; sausage; sautéed mushrooms; broiled tomatoes; orange or grapefruit juice; toast ( delivered to the table in a toast rack); marmalade and jam; cornflakes or muesli; a selection of fresh fruit, and a selection of yogurt . Whew! I promise I didn't eat ALL that, but I could have if I'd wanted to. :-) Coffee is served in individual china pots as is tea..and mind you, coffee is never served in a tea pot and tea is never served in a coffee pot. Guests who stay in the hotel's flats eat breakfast in the same cozy breakfast room as the guests who stay in the main building. We Lords and Ladies of the Flats just have a 60 second stroll ( or sprint if it's raining) to the main building. I like opening the front door of the main building in the mornings, the fragrance of toasted bread wafts up from the breakfast room on the lower level...it is very appealing . Ann liked the breakfasts-she-didn't -have- to- cook . ( She's chief cook and bottle washer at her house.) We left the hotel well fortified for a day's sightseeing. When I'm in London alone and I'm not meeting friends for dinner I tend to eat a very late, 4:00-ish, lunch and skip dinner altogether. Since I have a refrigerator in my flat I can keep cold drinks and snacks handy to nosh on in the evenings after I get home from the theater. I do like to eat dinner in London with friends, though. Stephan, one of my London friends took Ann and me to dinner at The Admiralty Restaurant in Somerset House. I'd been to the various galleries in Somerset House but had never eaten at the restaurant. Of course Ann had never seen Somerset House at all. We walked from the Morgan to the restaurant...that way Ann had a nice view of Trafalgar Square and The Strand at night. The colored lighting of the Somerset's Fountain Court was rather striking, all the water sprays were bathed in golden glow. The restaurant consists of three separate rooms : a bar and two dining rooms. We sat in the larger of the two dining rooms. The room was painted a soft orange , there was a stuffed cayman plus a few smaller reptiles "adorning " the walls , the chandeliers were shaped like galleons. I wish I could tell you what each of the three of us ordered, but I can't. I just remember that I had grilled sea bass served on artichoke ravioli for my main course. It was delicious, as was my starter, and our wine...and our desserts. Ann and I each ordered a chocolate moelleux-y dessert that arrived with a small pot of warmed chocolate sauce for drizzling on top. The coffee arrived with a selection of small chocolate candies. It was chocolate heaven. The service was friendly and the courses were well paced. After dinner Stephan drove us back to the hotel, but before he did he made several detours so Ann could see more of London by lamplight. We drove along the Embankment, around Parliament and Westminster Abbey, down Whitehall, up the Mall, past Buckingham Palace; we drove around Piccadilly Circus and Regent Street. Ann got her own hop-on-hop off bus tour with running commentary, but she didn't have to hop at all and her' bus' was a Lexus sedan. ;-) One evening I took Ann to my favorite place for fish and chips, North Sea Fish Restaurant. Grilled fish is offered but I save that option for other places. What I want here is a thinly battered cod fillet that's been gently fried until it's moist and flakey inside and golden brown on the outside. I highly reccommend this place. One afternoon we made the somewhat obligatory first-time-visitor-to-London trek to Harrods. We decided to assemble a feast from the food halls and take it back to the flat to graze on that evening. The minute details of our picnic hamper escape me , but I know we had a little protein, a little salad, a little fruit, and generous portions from the bakery and confection departments. ( Apparently we felt we had not consumed enough pastry while we were in France the previous week. Our arteries were crying out for more butter and sugar.) After Ann returned home, I had a few more dining experiences I'd like to mention. I'd posted a message on Fodors to inquire about the possibility of a GTG in London. Here's is the URL for that message. http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34526973 The outcome : Ggnga ; her friend, Doug; and I met for afternoon tea at Claridges. I booked the table via email well before I left for Europe. Claridges was prompt in replying to my request and was able to offer me a choice of times . Since I was the one to have made the arrangements I wanted to be sure I was first to arrive at the hotel. Ggnga and Doug arrived within 10 minutes. I'd booked a table for 4 in case M_K2 decided to join us. He didn't. The three of us had a nice time. We introduced ourselves and chatted about our travel plans. Tea was being served in 2 adjacent rooms, I had requested we be seated in the Reading Room where smoking is not permitted and we were. We had a number of teas from which to choose, I selected a silver needle white tea. I must confess I was a bit disappointed in the service. Our server brought our tea pots and poured our first cups of tea. A plate of sandwiches arrived next..the usual suspects: egg & cress, ham, and salmon. We chatted while we nibbled our sandwiches. We continued to chat..sitting there for quite a while before the server brought us a pot of hot water to add to our tea pots. I thought that was unusual, I had anticipated our being offered entirely fresh pots of tea, it seemed odd that we were expected to add water to tea leaves that had already been steeping for quite sometime. ( Yes, I know I could have requested a fresh pot.) We were offerd more sandwiches, but we declined . The scones and slices of cake were served on a flat silver server in lieu of a tiered cake stand. Ok, maybe I am being picky, but a cake stand is what I've grown accustomed to at hotel afternoon teas. ( And that includes The Brown Hotel and Savoy in London , the Empress in British Columbia; and even the Ritz-Carltons in the US ) :-) Still it was a pleasant afternoon. I also got to renew my acquaintance with Kavey, whom I had met last year in London. She had booked a table for us one afternoon at Circus on Upper James Street . We had a jolly time chatting. It was a blustery day, so ordering the pumpkin soup for a starter seemed a good idea to me. I had a very good tomato and basil risotto, too ...and then Kavey and I debated the merits of dessert. The raspberry pavlova won out. Our waiter took a snapshot of Kavey, the desserts, and me. We are sitting in front of a large window..so you will see the street scene behind us. http://www.ofoto.com/BrowsePhotos.js...id=12140875506 should link you to a photo album that I've just begun filling. Kavey told me Circus does a pre-theater menu, that would make the restaurant a viable option if you are going to one of the theaters near Piccadilly Circus. If you've read the link to the thread ( posted above) you'll know that Kavey fell on her way home from lunch. :-( My ramblings about food are getting lengthy, but there are a few more things I'd like to mention. The Cinnamon Club remains on my favorite's list. The same friend who took Ann and me to the Admiralty took me to The Cinnamon Club last year and this year as well. It's in the Old Westminster Library, the walls of the mezzanine and the bar are lined with shelves of books. The food and wine were excellent, the service impeccable and friendly. I had a zucchini flower and asparagus starter and I ordered spice encrusted monkfish for the main course. I also dined at Benares on Berkeley Square. This is a place that had been recommended to my friend, Stephan . Each year we like to try one Indian restaurant that is new to both of us. The restaurant furnishings are contemporary with colonial touches . One reaches the dining room via a flight of stairs. There are several water features, one of which is a low pool with floating flowers. The cuisine is Pan Indian. The menu wasn't extensive (but I always hope that indicates each of the dishes will be cooked to perfection.) We were brought crispy poppadums and a selection of fresh chutneys. My starter was a chickpea and spinich salad. My main course was sea bass that had been poached in coconut milk. Stephan had prawns in a spicy sauce. We shared a raita and a paneer that was seasoned with fenugreek and onion. The good was good, the service was friendly, the surroundings were stylish. We may return. Last word about what I ate ( I fear I'm being garrulous). I have friends, Jenn and her husband ,Chris, who live about 35 miles outside of London. Each year they generously take me out for a Sunday lunch. I usually take a train to a place they've named, they meet me at the station, we go driving around Kent exploring 'old relics '( as Chris likes to say) and then we have lunch at a country pub . They insist on driving me all the way back into London , which is terribly out of their way. The reasons I am not 'allowed' to take the train back are: "It gets dark early this time of year, we don't want you leaving the train station in London in the dark." Or... " The trains will be full of football fans who are 'in their cups'. So; we all ride into London together, we laugh and joke the whole way, they drop me at my door, and then they drive all the way back to Essex. ( Lovely people, aren't they?) This year we met on Halloween and drove around a bit in Essex. We ended up in an old fishing village, Leigh- on -Sea, which is mentioned in the Doomsday Book. There's a small artist community and there still is an active fleet of cockle boats. I mentioned that I'd never eaten cockles....that promted a stop at one of the cockle sheds, where fresh seafood of all kinds was being sold. One could also buy cooked cockles and eat them at nearby picnic tables . We dubbed our cockles as our Sunday lunch pre-stater starter. Chris had been snapping pictures of Jenn and me the whole time we were walking around. ( I have pictures, too but haven't downloaded them from my camera yet.) He's talented in creating web pages and I found an email with a link waiting for me when I returned home: www.chicksee.co.uk/judy/Judy.html He managed to include the most unflattering pics of Jenn and me. :-) Honest, the cockles didn't taste THAT bad! They just needed generous lashings of vinegar. |
I neglected to mention that Judi Dench and Maggie Smith star in a new film "Ladies in Lavender". They play spinster sisters who live in Cornwall in the 1930's.
The film had not yet opened when I left London last week, but there are posters for it all over the Tube stations. I'm anxious to see the movie when it opens in my town. I've seen the two other movies they've been in together and I was fortunate to see them together on stage in London a couple of years ago. I don't know when the US release of "Ladies in Lavender is scheduled. Another film that's being advertised in the Tubes is " Finding Neverland". The story is about the experiences that led to J.M Barrie's writing "Peter Pan." Johnny Deep plays Barrie. I believe that one is open in the UK now . It may already be open in the US, too, but not where I live. And last, but not least, the " Mary Poppins" premiers begin on December 6 at the Prince Edward Theatre. Those tickets should be a hot item during the holiday season. |
starspinners, your report is really fun to read (although now you have me craving Indian food AND chocolate). This is your second GTG that I've missed: last year I was visiting a friend in York and this year we left the day before your GTG (maybe next time).
Kavey, if you read this I hope you're feeling much better--you really do have an awesome attitude. |
Thank goodness I'd just eaten lunch before I read your food chapter Starspinner. Very much enjoyed it. Good work. |
Pavlovas
They look so good What's in them? |
I am enjoying your report, thanks!
I just love Chris' website of your day, what a wonderful, clever friend. It makes me want to join you with the cockles! Kavey, I hope you are doing better, I love your duck face pictures, you are such a sport. |
Judy,
I enjoyed reading your current trip report. We took many of your suggestions on our trip to London in March and they were all spot on. The Morgan is not the Ritz, but as you said, great location, clean rooms, great value and we thought the breakfasts were a great way to start the day. The North Sea Fish Restaurant is a small, cozy neighborhood place with good food and a surprisingly good wine list. We shared your reaction to Jerry Springer. At the time, we wondered if this would go over in the US. I heard that it's opening in San Francisco sometime in the next year. Wow, Nathan Lane in The Producer's must have been a kick. Thank's for rekindling the memories. Did you post your France report yet? |
Mvor,
Thank you. I hope we can get together next October. I already have my normal accommodations booked and will book the plane after the first of the year. Mathieu, Thank you. I am on bread and water, at the moment. :-) Sol_veracruzano, The 'basic' pavlova is a meringue filled with whipped cream. The ones Kavey and I ordered had raspberries spooned on top. Seaurchin, Thank you. The web site pictures made me howl with laughter. Chris and Jenn are wonderful friends; they're going to be my houseguests for a few days next year. They've been to the US before, but never to Louisville, which is where I live now. Little does Chris know that I plan to hand him a paintbrush. ;-) JoeG, I remember reading the report you posted when you returned from London last March. You and your wife seemed to have had so much fun. Thank you for letting me know my travel tips were useful. Yep, seeing Nathan Lane was definitely a highlight of this year's trip. I still have that "Oh, Wow! " feeling. I haven't done anything about posting a report for the Paris/Avignon/Montpellier portion of the trip... but do you really want to hear about how many pastries I consumed? <grin> |
What a wonderful report. Your restaurant recs are going straight into my "London File".
Maybe I missed it, but how much do the flats at the Morgan run? I personally prefer staying down in Pimlico, but a lot of friends ask me about places farther north and east, the British Museum, etc. |
starspinners, enjoying your report.
Kavey, get well soon, Johnny Depp's film opened here and we saw a preview with him as a guest on the Oprah show. |
Starspinners,fun reading. Thanks for sharing your trip and the cockles pictures.
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Yes, you warmed the cockles of my heart!
cockles are little tiny clams and even tinier are the Tellines of the Camargue. |
starspinners, aren't you the other person (besides me) who likes the violet-flavored chocolate from Fortnum and Mason? (Don't ask me why I remember that, but I do!) Were you able to pick some of it up on this trip?
We obviously also have the same taste in theatre, as I saw several of the shows you mentioned on my trip last month, and I thought your reviews were right on target. Your comment on "Jerry Springer: the Opera" ("I wanted to hate it, but it was too entertaining") perfectly summed up the way I felt about the show. I could quibble about a couple of things: I actually liked the projected scenery in "The Woman in White" (I thought it was the most creative thing about the show, but then I've never been a big fan of Lloyd Webber's music), and I thought "The Solid Gold Cadillac" was pretty funny (and I'm not even a senior citizen!), but for the most part we're solidly in agreement. Would you consider going back to London in a few months, so you can provide advance theatre recommendations for my next trip, in the spring? |
Hello Janis,
Thank you. I would be very much interested in learning what your favorite Pimlico/Victoria area restaurants are. :-) I believe the rack rate for the Morgan's 4 flats is £130 at the moment. That price is inclusive of VAT, daily housekeeping, and breakfast for two people. If one wants accommodations near the British Museum, the hotel could hardly be more conveniently located. I can look out 'my' flat's bedroom and kitchen windows into the rear area of the Museum. The Museum is literally around the corner from the Morgan. |
Bree,
What a memory you have. Yes, I do like the violet chocolate thins at F&M. But I didn't bring a box back with me this trip ! What on earth was I thinking? Now, of course, your mentioning them has made me want to lash myself with a wet noodle. So next trip I'll just have to import two boxes..or three. In the meantime, please enjoy your violet candy when you return to London in the spring and know that I am envious. I re-read the comment I made re: senior citizens enjoying " Solid Gold Cadillac". Oh dear, on second read it appears I'm using the term 'senior citizen' in a pejorative manner. Mea culpa. I fully intend to be a senior citizen one day ,well into my 90's , and I hope to have wonderful theater outings in London just as was the group who was in the " Solid Gold Cadillac" audience. :-) |
That's a good rate for a flat w/ housekeeping and b'fasts. I usually stay in unserviced (or only serviced once or twice a week) flats so they tend to be cheaper. I have seen the Morgan while walking in that neighborhood and always intended to step in to pick up some info/brochures.
Pimlico is pretty residential but there are several good restaurants/pubs. I usually spend a fair amount of time at Goya on Lupus St, not gourmet but really good. It is a Tapa bar w/ a restaurant downstairs. I love the Tapa bar because it serves late and has several yummy coffee/liquor drinks on the menu. Often after a play, instead of fighting my way through the throngs in Covent Garden/Soho, I head "home" to Pimlico and go to Goya for post-theatre supper/drinks. There is a terrific Indian Restaurant in Moreton st., but I'm having brain fade at the moment and can't remember the name of it. |
Oh my, I'm sooo mortified that my clumsiness and accident diverted Judy's wonderful report! :(
Thanks so much for all the well wishes. I really appreciate your messages, very sweet. My lip and face look totally normal to other people now, so that's good news. The hard lump that extends from top of the top lip down and around underneath it is scar tissue rather than saliva gland - no idea how long it will take or if it will go. A bit uncomfortable but not really painful unless I knock it hard. I have had two dental appointments so far and the third on is this Friday coming and he'll hopefully be able to fix the crown (he took impressions last time) which will give me a reasonably normal looking set of teeth again before we go away on Sunday for the next trip. (Ask me when I get back, though which forum does Antarctica come under?). Judy, thanks for posting that picture of us - everyone can see how huge those pavlovas are and what greedy girls we were but weren't they delicious. Btw re the Circus set menu - we ordered of that ourselves - we did our starters and mains off it and then went for the pavlovas from their full menu. The set menu (lunch and pre theatre) is excellent value but the a la carte is not an outrageously priced one anyway given quality of food and service. I also like that the tables are decently spread out so one doesn't feel like one's eardropping everyone else's conversations! I love all your restaurant reports, thanks Judy. You know I'm a foodie! Looking forward to your next London visit - does it really have to be a whole year away? |
<i>I've been attempting , off and on, to open the Fodor site since early afternoon.
First problem was that the page wouldn't load at all. Then the page would load but the message threads were vaporized. Then the whole page appeared but I was logged out. Then I tried to log in but I received dire messages that tossed around phrases such as 'stack trace' and "ColdFusion Documentation". I 'd finally reached the conclusion that Fodors was toying with me..when presto- chango the site in its entirety appeared from out of the blue. Thanks Kavey, If I can return to London sooner than next October, I will be a happy camper. :-)</i> |
Kavey, happy to hear that you are on the mend. I know someone with a similar scar inside the lip and that lump did go away in time...good as new now as you will be too.
starspinners, I, for one, would love to hear how many pastries you ate :D |
excellent report! I'm printing it out for my trip tomorrow...
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