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-   -   Spring travels through the Pelopponese & Central Greece + a stop in Milan (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/spring-travels-through-the-pelopponese-and-central-greece-a-stop-in-milan-1724514/)

progol Aug 19th, 2024 04:48 PM

Too funny, KarenWoo! 🤣

Adelaidean Aug 20th, 2024 12:47 PM

I’ve loved reading your excellent report!

And I bought a bougainvillea - all those wonderful colourful photos sent me off to the plant nursery 👍

progol Aug 20th, 2024 05:03 PM

Thanks, as always, Adelaidean! Enjoy your bougainvillea!

And there’s plenty more to come….I just plan on getting this TR done before my next trip!

ANUJ Aug 20th, 2024 07:28 PM

progol, thank you for such a wonderful report with great photos. It's been a while since we last visited Greece and Meteora is a gap we have to come back to fill.

progol Aug 21st, 2024 04:31 AM


Originally Posted by ANUJ (Post 17591504)
progol, thank you for such a wonderful report with great photos. It's been a while since we last visited Greece and Meteora is a gap we have to come back to fill.

Thanks so much, ANUJ! I always enjoy reading your reports, too, so I’m pleased that you’re enjoying mine.

Meteora is worth the effort to see it if you can get there.

Much more to come as soon as I can manage it!

progol Aug 22nd, 2024 10:26 AM

Easter in Nafplio
Sunday, May 5


It’s Easter here in Greece and shops and many restaurants are closed. But it’s a beautiful day and we decide to continue the short coastal walk al the way to Arvinitia Beach.

We began our walk at Syntagma Square, a beautiful and central historical square in the old town. It's a busy square, filled with cafes, and is great to see both day and night. Architecture reflects its Ottoman and Venetian history.

We continued on the walk, all the way to Arvinitia Beach, a pebble beach.It's only in the 70s and the air is warm, although the sun was playing hide and seek by now. Still, there are intrepid swimmers and numerous sunbathers on this stony beach. If I had my bathing suit on, I might’ve gone in, but even dipping my toes in the water and walking on the stones (smooth, at least!) was enough to remind me that I can simply enjoy the beach without getting wet.

The path sits below Akronafplia castle, the 3rd of the 3 castles in Nafplio.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8c1ed13a3.jpg
Syntagma Square

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcbf64e188.jpg
Lion of St. Mark on what is now the Archeological Museum. It was built in 1713 during Venetian rule.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f5bd33044e.jpg
Toy figures in the shop. I don't know who they are but they look like regional figures. The left one might be a pasha but I'm not sure.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e25cd93e0.jpg
Yet another beautiful view

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a5dd1aeec7.jpg
Beginning your walk - there are swimming areas here and at least a few people are in the water

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a5f2be5bc8.jpg
Stairs to a church which is closed

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a98ef9124a.jpg

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The beach - the sun was out for quite a while and it was very warm. I was tempted to go in but didn't have my suit with me.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fa974fbedf.jpg




progol Aug 22nd, 2024 10:31 AM

Easter dinner in Nafplio
And what do Greeks eat on Easter? Lamb, generally roasted on a spit. Although many restaurants are closed today, those that are open are serving lamb. We walked for a while looking for a restaurant and many of them were too busy to even consider sitting us. But then, we found the perfect place. Chaotic, busy, and just the basics - roasted lamb done on a spit and delicious tzatziki. A perfect way to experience the traditional Easter meal.


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...218cf6601f.jpg

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https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0ff850fc27.jpg


progol Aug 22nd, 2024 11:11 AM

Akronafplia Castle or Fortress

From the website kastra.eu,
Akronafplia is one of the three outstanding castles of Nafplio, and the one with the richest history. The current form of the castle of Akronaflia, although quite altered by modern interventions, was formed mainly during the Frankish and First Venetian periods, from the 13th to the 16th century.
Rising above the old part of town, the Akronafplia fortress is the oldest of Nafplio's three castles. The lower sections of the walls date back to the Bronze Age. Until the arrival of the Venetians, the town was restricted to within its walls.

Stairs! Walking up to Akronafplia, the stairs got increasingly challenging the further up we went. Still, as we walked up and up and up, we're rewarded with more wonderful colors and views.

And once we walked through the first archway at the top of the stairs, we discovered we were actually at the castle ruins! While important historically, this is not a formal tourist site with an entrance fee as it is open to all to explore round the clock. For a while, we were alone - and the views were, once again, spectacular. It had a special feeling despite being in such disarray.

Fortunately, for those who look at the stairs and say, "Not I!", one can drive all the way up to the ruins rather than walk up all those stairs.

And, later I realized that, from my back window, I can see the crenellations and the bell!

progol Aug 22nd, 2024 11:14 AM

Stairs and Views (1)

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d4c8fc51b9.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...562d068795.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b3fb34f1dc.jpg

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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1585750236.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c811cf3589.jpg
And anyone considering Pension Dafni, a well-reviewed pension, it's located close to the last set of stairs before the entry to the castle ruins. It looks great for the energetic though it's too far up too many stairs for my poor knees.

progol Aug 22nd, 2024 11:24 AM

Akronafplia Castle & lots of views

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...712708f1b3.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...197257fbd2.jpg
Lion of St. Mark's

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...822e702dfa.jpg
Man & Lion

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42139dbe0a.jpg
View down the stairs

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3991d2b355.jpg
And another view...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...94260d9358.jpg
Those views....


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...40e5d62e5a.jpg
Overlooking the coastal path

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8883779de6.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ce6660e969.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b39f4e6eed.jpg
Bell tower (can't see the bell from this angle, but it's there)

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7cd28da6e8.jpg
Overview of Nafplio

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3154ed313a.jpg
Castle crenellations

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a7f076c72.jpg
Castle crenellations and bell tower from the back window of my pension

progol Aug 22nd, 2024 11:49 AM

A few miscellaneous pix around Nafplio before we leave...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a24a18ec82.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6e051d67c9.jpg
Great gelato!

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2eae883512.jpg

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xyz99 Aug 23rd, 2024 05:18 AM

Wow, these Nafplio views are gorgeous!! You captured them so well.

progol Aug 23rd, 2024 05:42 AM

Thanks, xyz99!! The views around Nafplio are really so beautiful and it was just such a joy being able to see then from so many different perspectives. I'm sure you'll find your own, too!

shelemm Aug 23rd, 2024 06:02 AM

I love the stones on the stepped walkway with the pink building. Such a variety in that section, and they look so smooth.

KarenWoo Aug 24th, 2024 03:27 PM

You were smart to spend as much time as you did in Nafplio. The walks you took are so beautiful and stunning. You saw more than we did. One reason i think is that we visited Mystras from Nafplio so we had less time for actual sightseeing in Nafplio. I could easily return.

How lucky to spend Easter Sunday in Nafplio! We love lamb so having a traditional Easter lamb dinner in Nafplio would have been a highlight!

geetika Aug 24th, 2024 05:48 PM

Karen’s right. We stayed about 20kms away from Nafplion and actually only spent a day there, so didn’t see or do as much as both progol
a you did. However, we absolutely loved the Peloponnese and wish we could have stayed much longer. Would go back in a heartbeat, but unlikely as there’s so many other places we want to see!

progol Aug 25th, 2024 05:31 AM

Hello everyone! And thanks for continuing to follow this thread!

shelemm, the steps were slippery and I wouldn't want to be walking on them when it rains! But the views from there were wonderful and the exploration of the castle ruins was a delight.

KarenWoo, when I saw that we were in Nafplio over Easter, my biggest concern was making sure the sites we wanted to visit were open. I had initially planned 4 nights, but extended it to 6. In the end, I was really glad that we had the extra time. And, being there on Easter was also SO special - one of those times when my accidental planning worked out well!
We did go to Mystras, but from the Mani as it was just about an hour's drive. I try to limit day trips to no more than an hour's drive to the furthest point.

geetika, the Peloponnese was a treat and we really enjoyed our time there. And Nafplio was one of our favorite stops. But I also agree -- so many places yet to see!! My current philosophy - if we go back to a place we've been, we ALSO tack on a new place, so it's a win-win!!

petap88919, I'm glad you're enjoying the photos! I'm definitely a visual trip reporter! And if it's 40 years, it's time to return to Milan - it only took us 25 years to get back!

progol Aug 25th, 2024 06:09 AM

Leaving Nafplio and on our way to the Mani...

I must admit that I was very sad to leave Nafplio. It turned out to be a wonderful surprise and I could've easily stayed longer, just ambling through the town and taking more day trips. Today we're on our way to the Mani Peninsula, staying at the Akrolithi Boutique Hotel. The drive was easy to follow by good old Google maps (not always our best friend!) but the many (many!) twists and turns wreaked havoc on me! Still, it was a beautiful drive.

The drive pix were all "grab" shots, sticking my phone through the window and snapping away.


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progol Aug 25th, 2024 06:39 AM

Arriving at the Akrolithi Boutique Hotel

Well, Google maps was our friend until we got close to the hotel. The Akrolithi Boutique hotel is in Otylos, one of the oldest towns on the Mani peninsula and even mentioned in Homer's Iliad. The hotel is just enough off the main road, and the directions that we got from the hotel were just confusing enough, that finding the right turnoff took us a few trial and errors, with Google maps having many hiccups along the way. We later found the easiest way to get to the hotel, but it wasn't obvious until later.

The Mani peninsula is a rocky and rugged landscape, home to the Maniots, a fiercely independent tribe of people. It's known for its tall defensive towers and was never occupied by the Turks during the Ottoman Empire. The Mani is the middle of 3 peninsulas jutting off the Pelopponesian peninsula and its tip is the most southern point of continental Europe. After we rested, we took a short stroll up the road to get a better sense of place. Although it wasn't a long drive to the nearest "big" town, it was more than we wanted to do, so we had a light supper of pizza and Greek salad, or Greka (aren’t all salads in Greece called Greek salads?), at the hotel, which was more than satisfying.

The Akrolithi Boutique Hotel is beautifully-sited, but it's also fairly isolated, so you'll want to take the car out for dinner (a short drive, but still a drive). Limeni, the nearby pretty town sitting on the water which we could see from our hotel, is less than 10 minutes away. We attempted to visit one afternoon but it was so busy that it was impossible to find a parking spot. After that attempt, we didn't try to go there for dinner.

The room we were in (a junior suite) is spacious with a sense of luxury and a huge terrace that extends out. There was no shading, however, so it was impossible to sit out on the terrace when the sun was out and it was pretty windy much of the time. We liked the place but didn't love it, though it certainly does get rave reviews.

progol Aug 25th, 2024 06:48 AM

Akrolithi Boutique hotel
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0c8365309.jpg
Terrace with a view

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9a5dbcc782.jpg
Gorgeous sitting area without shade. On the website, there is white material that is woven into the wooden crossbars above to provide shade, but not while we were there

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...97cead25b2.jpg

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Comfortable room

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Outdoor dining (but we ate inside because it was too windy)

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ade3658a36.jpg

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Stairs up to our room

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f4fe2b8749.jpg
Not a bad view at night~

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...df38a7283c.jpg
Overview of the hotel from the road

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9264a7d5d.jpg
Breakfast buffet

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1ea0c69392.jpg
Indoor dining area


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