Fodor's Travel Talk Forums

Fodor's Travel Talk Forums (https://www.fodors.com/community/)
-   Europe (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/)
-   -   Spring travels through the Pelopponese & Central Greece + a stop in Milan (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/spring-travels-through-the-pelopponese-and-central-greece-a-stop-in-milan-1724514/)

leifields Aug 12th, 2024 12:24 PM

Progol – Thanks for one more of your wonderful TRs! I always take lots of notes - so much information. Now I need to include Milan and stay in this hotel in my next trip to Italy 😊 – looks great. Also want to revisit Nafplio to see the bougainvillea blooming like in your beautiful pictures – stunning! And we did climb the 999 steps of the Palamidi Fortress! But that was back in Sep/2014 on a port-day cruise visit.

Love your fabulous pictures and descriptions of places and adventures!

mendota98 Aug 13th, 2024 05:11 AM

progol,

Thank you for a great report and posting exceptional photos. Your enjoyment of the trip is evident.

While in Milan did you consider visiting The Last Supper?

xyz99 Aug 13th, 2024 05:56 AM

I'm still reading, and enjoying this so much. Thank you!! Where was that Trojan horse? I'd love to see it.
We'll be in Napflio in October, I wonder is bougainvillea will still be in bloom....

yestravel Aug 13th, 2024 06:21 PM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17587637)
I repeat what shelemm just said. Wow, wow, wow!!! The photos of Milan are gorgeous! And thanks for including the photos of the Hotel Gran Duca di York. I made our reservations yesterday based on your recommendation.

Did you go to the Milan Duomo rooftop? If not this trip, then 25 years ago? Are there elevators that bring you to the rooftop? Did you buy tickets in advance to enter?

We will be in Milan for 3 nights at the beginning of our trip, and then the last night of our trip. So we should be able to spend the last afternoon and evening in Milan. I am thinking of taking a daytrip to Bergamo when we first arrive. Based on your experience being in Milan twice, does that give us enough time there? Just curious what you think. We can always make our decision about Bergamo when we are there.

I notice that people are wearing long pants and jackets in Milan at the end of April. I guess I thought it would be warmer. We will be there from May 3 through May 5. Will make a note to pack the proper clothing. I had envisioned wearing capris and short sleeves every day but I guess not!

hi Karen, we have stayed in Milan a couple times and always enjoy our time there. The last trip for three days was in Spring 2023. We used a guide through the Breeters which was quite good.

on Bergamo we stayed there one trip and found it underwhelming relative to other towns.

progol Aug 14th, 2024 11:24 AM

geetika and xyz99, That Trojan horse is quite something to see! Though it's oddly sitting outside of what looks like a former antique store with several other (empty) stores around it. Maybe they are busier at another time but we didn't see anyone around. This is on the main road on the way to Mycenae; I think it's pretty close to the site.

geetika, we didn't make it to Troy, either (though we did get to Turkey over 20 years ago).

xyz99, I read somewhere that the bougainvillea is there until the winter, so maybe you'll get to see it. It's magical!

leifields, I'm impressed that you walked up all those steps to the Palamidi Castle! I took one look and said "Nope!" So we were happy to find the back way up by car -- much, much easier!! Thank you for your sweet words!

mendota - My husband and I were in Milan 25 years earlier and saw The Last Supper then so we didn't feel the need to see it again. But I'd recommend it to everyone - it's remarkable to see. I'm glad you're enjoying the report!!

yestravel, when we go to Milan again, I'll make sure to arrange a guide through the Greeters. That's a good organization, too.

More to come, everyone -- just a lot of life stuff to deal with right now and haven't had time to get back to this. But I promise more very soon!!



KarenWoo Aug 14th, 2024 12:00 PM


Originally Posted by yestravel (Post 17589437)
hi Karen, we have stayed in Milan a couple times and always enjoy our time there. The last trip for three days was in Spring 2023. We used a guide through the Breeters which was quite good.

on Bergamo we stayed there one trip and found it underwhelming relative to other towns.

Hi yestravel!
I know everyone has their own opinions about places. Just wondering if you think Bergamo is worth a daytrip from Milan? This will be our only time in this part of Italy so our only chance to visit Bergamo. Is there another nearby town you would recommend spending a day at? We are staying one night in Parma.

progol Aug 14th, 2024 12:18 PM

Bourtzi castle
Bourtzi castle, a fortification on a small island just a quick boat ride from the Nafplio waterfront, was a pleasant afternoon activity. The small boats run frequently and it took no more than a few minutes to reach the island.

The Bourtzi, or “tower” in Turkish, was built in 1471 by an Italian architect from Bergamo, and in 1473, under the Venetians, served to protect the area from pirates. In 1871, it was the home of the city’s executioner - maybe he needed to be safely away from the city folk! And it was a hotel from 1930-1970 - I’m sure it was a dreamy place to be during those days.

Now it’s a quick visit to enjoy the views of the mainland and the gorgeous blues of the water.

And for those who know M and his love of language…he has been learning Chinese (Mandarin) for over 10 years now and he amazed a family from Shanghai when he spoke with them in Mandarin! The one couple's son was quite stunned when M spoke with him directly but then started chatting away (M understanding a tiny bit!). It was very charming!

progol Aug 14th, 2024 12:32 PM

Bourtzi Castle
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b6e6b70a2.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...382c68afec.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...202c678b56.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eda2defe49.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a01a3cfe53.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e597a11702.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b7cdf6d32.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61bb75d713.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c29ff0ec9.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84cb363ba1.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4be359c8c2.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2796802d32.jpg

progol Aug 14th, 2024 12:38 PM

And because there are never too many photos with bougainvillea...here are a few more around Nafplio

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c41594512b.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8987eae5f3.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2436b75fe.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56be7803db.jpg
The front door to our apartment building (we were up a flight)

yestravel Aug 14th, 2024 12:45 PM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17589668)
Hi yestravel!
I know everyone has their own opinions about places. Just wondering if you think Bergamo is worth a daytrip from Milan? This will be our only time in this part of Italy so our only chance to visit Bergamo. Is there another nearby town you would recommend spending a day at? We are staying one night in Parma.

Hi! We stayed a night or two in Bergamo a few trips back.. we were underwhelmed with it.
Our last trip Spring 2023, we started at Lake Orta, about a 45 minute drive from the airport in Milan. We absolutely loved it. Beautiful, rather peaceful place. Lots of day trips from there. Its gets day trippers esp,school kids going on the short ferry ride to Isola San Guilio.
BTW we loved Parma,nice non touristy town that we thoroughly enjoyed.

progol Aug 14th, 2024 01:11 PM

EpidavrosEpidauros/Epidavros, once a reknowned healing sanctuary in the classical world, is famous for its remarkable theater, built into a side of a hill and looks out onto a lush valley. The theater was built in the 4th century to host ceremonial events in honor of the god Asclepius, the god of medicine in Ancient Greek mythology.

The theater is magnificent - perfectly symmetrical with great acoustics. The theater up to 15,000 people! The small stone circle in the middle of the orchestra (the round floor space) was built with a hollow underground space which projected the voices upward. While standing on it, I could hear my voice resonating. There were too many other people to really test this effectively, but it is possible to be heard in the upper reaches of the theater without any audio equipment!

We then explored the remaining ruins and visited the small museum. While the ruins left are essentially foundations of structures, it is impressive to see how extensive the site is. There is a stadium, which held competitions honoring Apollo and his son, Asclepius. The sanctuary, or Asklepieion, was the place where people went to be healed. There were several buildings that made up the sanctuary.

The small museum held some lovely objects and my favorite was a large tablet which listed the account of expenses for the construction of the Tholos on the site!

progol Aug 14th, 2024 01:25 PM

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...168e1e9f03.jpg
Approaching the theater - it's impressive!

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6577bf0c91.jpg
The voice "resonator"

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6893bc7019.jpg
"Hellooooooooo up there!"

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09cf45dc45.jpg
But it's even more impressive the further up you go!!

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f6b69258d.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20982abdde.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6ae3a5252.jpg

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d1a8ee5cc.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...199571c0a5.jpg
Entrance to one of the buildings where people stayed while waiting to be healed

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c791307f4.jpg
Stadium

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58e711d4eb.jpg
The tablet listing the accounts for the construction of the buildings!

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23d32dfb8e.jpg
Tablet - closeup

progol Aug 15th, 2024 06:08 AM


Originally Posted by studenttobe (Post 17589036)
Thanks for the TR, Progol-love the photos and was esp interested in your discussion of Milan (a city I've only passed through several times on my way to some other wonderful place). Have been meaning to organize a trip that has me staying in Milan. Your photos and discussion have me thinking more seriously about doing so sooner rather than later. And great to know re the well priced all business class airline out of Newark. I used to fly from Vegas to London for a regular work event on a now defunct airline (the name of which escapes me now) only bec it got me cheap business seats.

studenttobe, thanks so much for your comments! I only just saw this today. I think you would really enjoy Milan a lot - it has a lot to offer and many people bypass it on the way to the quainter or more charming towns in Italy. But we really like it a lot.

And if you’re near Newark airport, La Compagnie is a gem of an airline. Since it’s got limited flights and destinations, it’s not for everyone, but it’s definitely a good airline to fly.

shelemm Aug 15th, 2024 10:07 AM

Those keyholes in the fort's turrets are quite the detail.

Magnificent theatre at Epidaurus equals its setting,

And I see from the tablet of accounts that they overpaid for carpeting. Some things never change!

KarenWoo Aug 15th, 2024 03:11 PM


Originally Posted by yestravel (Post 17589683)
Hi! We stayed a night or two in Bergamo a few trips back.. we were underwhelmed with it.
Our last trip Spring 2023, we started at Lake Orta, about a 45 minute drive from the airport in Milan. We absolutely loved it. Beautiful, rather peaceful place. Lots of day trips from there. Its gets day trippers esp,school kids going on the short ferry ride to Isola San Guilio.
BTW we loved Parma,nice non touristy town that we thoroughly enjoyed.

yestravel, Nice to know you loved Parma! Staying there one night in between Milan and Manarola.

KarenWoo Aug 15th, 2024 03:16 PM

Agree the theater at Epidaurus is magnificent!!!

Love your additional photos of Nafplio and all the gorgeous bougainvillea!! When I was planning our trip I was told that Nafplio and Chania are the two most beautiful towns/villages in Greece. Haven't been to Crete so can't comment on Chania but I certainly agree about Nafplio!

studenttobe Aug 16th, 2024 05:35 AM

Thanks, Progol—I’m thinking of a trip to Italy this spring (as an add on to a possible work trip to Germany), and am very likely to add a few nights in Milan to what I hope will also involve a stay in Rome. I’ve saved your report for inspiration and guidance. You’ve never steered me wrong! And on the airline—yes, definitely going to keep it in mind. I try to upgrade to business on intl flights using miles on United/Lufthansa (I’m in that ecosystem), but it’s not always possible, and would definitely be worth a stop in Newark as a way to fly to Europe in business at a price w/in my budget. Thanks again for your, as always, useful and inspiring report. (Also loved your discussion and photos of Greece—I’ve visited many of the places in Greece that you did and loved them all, though it was many moons ago.)

progol Aug 18th, 2024 05:52 AM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17589974)
Agree the theater at Epidaurus is magnificent!!!

Love your additional photos of Nafplio and all the gorgeous bougainvillea!! When I was planning our trip I was told that Nafplio and Chania are the two most beautiful towns/villages in Greece. Haven't been to Crete so can't comment on Chania but I certainly agree about Nafplio!

Completely agree, the theater at Epidauros is spectacular. It really took my breath away (fortunately, not literally!).

Funny, I remember reading Nafplio and Chania were the 2 most beautiful villages and were similar. I was initially disappointed in Nafplio because we both loved Chania and it didn't initially feel as special since the old town is very much geared to a moderately high end tourist population. But over the time we were there, we really fell in love with Nafplio. The location is terrific and the feeling of the place really grew on us.

progol Aug 18th, 2024 05:58 AM


Originally Posted by studenttobe (Post 17590104)
Thanks, Progol—I’m thinking of a trip to Italy this spring (as an add on to a possible work trip to Germany), and am very likely to add a few nights in Milan to what I hope will also involve a stay in Rome. I’ve saved your report for inspiration and guidance. You’ve never steered me wrong! And on the airline—yes, definitely going to keep it in mind. I try to upgrade to business on intl flights using miles on United/Lufthansa (I’m in that ecosystem), but it’s not always possible, and would definitely be worth a stop in Newark as a way to fly to Europe in business at a price w/in my budget. Thanks again for your, as always, useful and inspiring report. (Also loved your discussion and photos of Greece—I’ve visited many of the places in Greece that you did and loved them all, though it was many moons ago.)

Thanks for your very sweet words, studenttobe! I'm sure that you will enjoy Milan -- it's an excellent counterpoint to Rome. La Compagnie's biz class isn't quite on par with the major airlines biz class -- the seating is 2x2 rows (no cute private cubicles) and the service isn't quite as solicitous as the larger airlines - but for the price, it can't be beat. And, fyi, sometime before Thanksgiving, there is usually a sale on the tickets.

HappyTrvlr Aug 18th, 2024 06:08 AM

I continue to love your report to many places we have visited and enjoyed. Someone upthread mentioned Lake Orta which is among the very few places we wished we had skipped. We kept driving back down to Lake Maggiore which we much preferred.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 03:53 PM.