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progol Aug 25th, 2024 06:52 AM

A quick walk up the hill from the hotel - more lovely views!

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progol Aug 25th, 2024 07:24 AM

May 7/Morning in the Mani at the Akrolithi Boutique hotel

Today was a much better day than yesterday! I was ready to go and it’s another beautiful day. The Mani has a stark beauty and we begin to explore the Mani, making several stops. First, we travel to Vathia, the ruins of a fortified town, built in the 18th and 19th centuries, mostly abandoned but beginning to be restored. It is wonderful to roam around.

We then continued south to almost the southern tip of continental Europe. cape Tanairo. Well, we got as far as our car could take us and a brief walk would allow; we stopped at the site of a temple and oracle devoted to Poseidon. We didn’t continue on to the actual tip, but it is a 2 km walk from here to the Land’s End of Greece. Much as we'd like to say we were at the tip of the continent, we weren't quite up to a hike.

And from here, we continued on to Gerolimenas, a charming small town on one of the many coves, and stopped for lunch. Lovely location and a relaxing stop. We drove back to our hotel, stopping at the larger town of Aeropoli at the bakery, then we drove through Limeni (packed with cars as it’s the end of the Easter holiday) and returned to our hotel. A good day!

progol Aug 25th, 2024 08:36 AM

The drive to Vathia, the abandoned fortified town in thr Mani peninsula

Vathia, an abandoned fortified town, known for its huge stone towers that dominate the countryside. This form of architecture developed during the 18th and 19th centuries. It is a tourist attraction and you'll see an occasional tourist bus or busses parked on the roadside. Still, scrambling through the village feels like a place out of time.

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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f7e80c9b41.jpgVathia, an abandoned fortified town, known for its huge stone towers that dominate the countryside.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e736e00001.jpgVathia, an abandoned fortified town, known for its huge stone towers that dominate the countryside.




progol Aug 25th, 2024 08:52 AM

Scrambling around Vathia
This form of architecture developed during the 18th and 19th centuries. It is a tourist attraction and you'll see an occasional tourist bus or busses parked on the roadside. Still, scrambling through the village feels like we’ve wandered back in time.

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Arriving at the village

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progol Aug 25th, 2024 09:14 AM

The tip of Continental Europe and a stop at a traditional coastal village
On our way to Cape Tanairon/Tenaro (or as close as we can come by car), the southernmost point of continental Europe; to Gerolimenas, a small but sweet town coastal village; and back to Aeropoli, where we stop in a bakery where I check out the Easter bunny display.

Cape Tenaro was believed to be the gateway to the underworld; from the website, shinygreece.com:
"Legend has it that the heroic Tenaros, son of Zeus, founded a town at the isthmus of the Mani Peninsula, giving the cape its name. This mystical place was also known as "Poseidion" in ancient times and was associated with the sea god Poseidon. The ancient Spartans revered Cape Tenaro, constructing several temples dedicated to various gods. Perched above a cave that was believed to be the home of Hades, the god of the dead, the remnants of an ancient temple dedicated to Poseidon can still be found today. Under the Byzantine Empire, the temple was transformed into a Christian church, where Christian rites continue to be conducted."


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Defensive towers along the coast

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Vathia to Cape Tenaro

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Ancient Greek mythology is in the air here! Signs at the most southern point we could drive to.

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Pointing the way toward the sanctuary of Poseidon

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We couldn't figure out which structure this was supposed to be but it had a wonderful feeling

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French hiking group off to find the oracle and sanctuary site

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On the drive back from Cape Tenaro toward Gerolimenas


progol Aug 25th, 2024 09:18 AM

On to Sweet Gerolimenas
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Gerolimenas, a sweet fishing town on a small cove

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Gerolimenas

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Gerolimenas

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Gerolimenas

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Gerolimenas

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Restaurant in town

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Marinated anchovies

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And back to Aeropoli, where we check out the Easter display in a bakery!!

dreamon Aug 25th, 2024 11:09 PM

Thank you for sharing your holiday with us. Great photos! They make me really want to return!

progol Aug 26th, 2024 10:32 AM


Originally Posted by dreamon (Post 17592658)
Thank you for sharing your holiday with us. Great photos! They make me really want to return!

Thanks, dreamon! Glad you like the photos! And I’m enjoying seeing them again - it makes me doubly enjoy the trip, too.

KarenWoo Aug 26th, 2024 11:58 AM

This part of the Peloponnese looks very interesting and more remote. Were there fewer tourists? The Akrolithiri Boutique Hotel is beautiful but might be too remote for us. Would Limeni be a nice place to stay? Gerolimenas looks so pretty and so peaceful. I could see ourselves enjoying a few relaxing days there. Kind of reminds me of one of our favorite places on Naxos - a quiet fishing village we stopped at on Moutsounas Bay. Quiet in May anyways, not sure about the summer months.

progol Aug 26th, 2024 01:49 PM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17592789)
This part of the Peloponnese looks very interesting and more remote. Were there fewer tourists? The Akrolithiri Boutique Hotel is beautiful but might be too remote for us. Would Limeni be a nice place to stay? Gerolimenas looks so pretty and so peaceful. I could see ourselves enjoying a few relaxing days there. Kind of reminds me of one of our favorite places on Naxos - a quiet fishing village we stopped at on Moutsounas Bay. Quiet in May anyways, not sure about the summer months.

The Mani is relatively remote though Akrolithi Boutique hotel is closer to the top of the peninsula and close enough to Limeni (which sits directly on the water after a turn-off from the road) that it’s more or less the same distance. The advantage of Limeni is that is a small (and busy!) village that has some restaurants. Aeropoli, the larger town, is more accessible though doesn’t have the glorious views you get from either of the other places.

I liked Gerolimenas more but it is further down the peninsula - a lovely town sitting on a cove, though less convenient for touring, or at least, to where I wanted to go. We visited Mystras from Akrolithi, which was just a hour away, so that worked out well. Kardamyli is a popular (and very touristy) town that is at the very top of the peninsula but it was waaaay too crowded and touristy for my liking. Don’t get me wrong, Akrolithi is lovely and really not that hard to get to once we figured it out, but somehow, we never felt a warm feeling about the place. This had more to do with the owner than the place itself.

xyz99 Aug 27th, 2024 04:08 AM

I'm still traveling with you, and loving it.
We'll stay on the other side of Mani in Gythio, and visit Limeni and/or Aeropoli. Should we do both? Or just one and leisurely spend our day there? If just one, which one? I think we'll stop in Mystras on the way to Gythio.

progol Aug 27th, 2024 05:35 AM


Originally Posted by xyz99 (Post 17592908)
I'm still traveling with you, and loving it.
We'll stay on the other side of Mani in Gythio, and visit Limeni and/or Aeropoli. Should we do both? Or just one and leisurely spend our day there? If just one, which one? I think we'll stop in Mystras on the way to Gythio.

It’s easy to do both. Aeropoli is a larger town which you’ll be passing through or by on your way to Limeni. Limeni is a small town sitting on the water. I don’t think it’ll take that long to do both though Limeni is beautifully sited so I’d have lunch there. I’d avoid weekends as it is a popular place and, as I mentioned, a challenge for parking.

progol Sep 12th, 2024 06:33 AM

Mystras, the Old City

A fabulous day! About an hour’s drive from Akrolithi, we drove to Mystras, a world heritage site near Sparti, Greece. It ’s a breathtakingly beautiful Byzantine city spread out on a steep hill in the Taygetos mountain range. It was once a powerful Byzantine town in the Pelopponese between the 13th and 15th centuries just a few km west of Sparti.

The site is large and takes a bit of effort to explore. It’s divided into 2 towns - the Upper and Lower, and we drove first to the upper and then to the lower towns. More energetic folks might walk the entire way up and/or down, but there’s enough hiking even when you do drive between the sites.

The Upper Town
Even after parking, the walk up to the castle ruins is quite a hike but it’s worth it. The views of the are are amazing. The outer wall was first built by the Franks in the 13th century, with alterations made over the centuries, mostly by the Turks.

The Lower Town
After enjoying the Upper Town for quite a while, we drove back down the long and winding hill to the Lower Town. Although we were running out of steam by this time, we enjoyed a few of the many Byzantine churches dotted around the pathways (up and down!) of the Lower Town.


progol Sep 12th, 2024 06:51 AM

Part 1:
The walk to the castle, the ruins and the views. Oh, those views!

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francebound Sep 12th, 2024 08:48 AM

So glad you are continuing your report and terrific photos. I had better get some hill climbing in to prepare for Mystras!

KarenWoo Sep 12th, 2024 01:48 PM

OMG!!!! I love your photos of Mystras! Mystras is one of my favorite places and I would return in a heartbeat! Can't wait to see your photos of Lower Town. I love the Byzantine churches, the mosaics and ancient faded wall paintings!

progol Sep 12th, 2024 05:03 PM

francebound, Thank you! We definitely found the walk up from the upper level parking lot to be a bit of a workout! It’s really worth it, though. It’s really special.

KarenWoo, thank you! Your visit was (once again!) an inspiration for me - when I saw your photos, I knew we had to go! I loved your photos, too! We also enjoyed the lower town but didn’t spend nearly as much time as I would’ve liked as we were both running out of steam. But I’m glad we saw what we did. it was one of our favorite stops.

I’m hoping to get this report done before our next trip but I promise I will continue it!


shelemm Sep 13th, 2024 06:10 AM

Exploring a place like Mystras is the kind of activity that brings joy to my heart for the exercise and the sense of wonder. Every angle is a different vision, like walking around a statue that has no front or back.

progol Sep 13th, 2024 10:32 AM

shelemm, thank you for that wonderful description! What a wonderful image I have seeing this "statue" I have in my mind's eye!

Mystras is really a remarkable place and, as non-hikers, gave us fantastic views and sense of place for relatively little work.

Pix to come very soon!

progol Sep 13th, 2024 11:07 AM

Mystras, Lower Town
We drove back down to the lower town parking lot and entered the lower town just beyond the gift shop. We explored a few of the Byzantine churches, particularly the Agia Sophia, the first church we came to and perhaps the most known. It was built in the mid-14th century under the Ottomans and was originally a mosque. It's beautifully sited and is decorated with some wonderful frescoes, too. We explored a little more before we called it a day.

After our adventure, we were starving, found parking in town and had an absolutely fabulous lunch at O Ellinas, a simple but traditional-style taverna right in the middle of the small town of Mystras. Service was incredibly friendly and we had the very best moussaka of our trip.
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progol Sep 13th, 2024 11:14 AM

Landscape
The drive back to Akrolithi was glorious through mountains and olive tree groves

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progol Sep 13th, 2024 11:43 AM

1 Attachment(s)
The Moody Mani
Into each trip a little rain must fall…for the first time on this trip, we had a little rain. After so many boring blue skies Attachment 9083, we needed a break! It was windy and a day of light rain, on and off. I really can’t complain!

We started the day taking a walk up to the nearby town of Oitylo, a tiny village at the top of our hill and one of the oldest towns in the Mani peninsula and was mentioned in Homer's Iliad! One of the treats of this trip was discovering the historical references to the places we were visiting.

We stopped for a coffee and juice.

Despite wind and an occasional raindrop, we enjoyed just slowing down and letting the day unfold and reveal itself to us.

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From the hotel terrace

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Looking back to Akrolithi Boutique hotel

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The town of Oitylo

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KarenWoo Sep 13th, 2024 04:12 PM

I love, love your photos of Mystras Lower Town! A wonderful walk down memory lane for me. Do you take your photos with a cell phone or a "real" camera? Your photos of the ancient wall paintings and other interior shots of the churches are very sharp and clear.

Seeing all of Mystras does take a lot of energy. We visited the Upper Town first, too, and I think the walk to the top of the castle ruins did my husband in!:) We then drove down to the Lower Town and when we got there, my husband decided he was too tired to explore Lower Town, much to my disappointment. He found a shady spot to rest while I explored Lower Town by myself. I was gone for close to an hour but I could have stayed longer but didn't want him waiting by himself all that time. I know that some people walk up and down to both towns but there is no way we could have done that.

KarenWoo Sep 13th, 2024 04:15 PM


Originally Posted by shelemm (Post 17597658)
Exploring a place like Mystras is the kind of activity that brings joy to my heart for the exercise and the sense of wonder. Every angle is a different vision, like walking around a statue that has no front or back.

I love your description! You are a poet!

progol Sep 14th, 2024 02:33 AM


Originally Posted by KarenWoo (Post 17597788)
I love, love your photos of Mystras Lower Town! A wonderful walk down memory lane for me. Do you take your photos with a cell phone or a "real" camera? Your photos of the ancient wall paintings and other interior shots of the churches are very sharp and clear.

Seeing all of Mystras does take a lot of energy. We visited the Upper Town first, too, and I think the walk to the top of the castle ruins did my husband in!:) We then drove down to the Lower Town and when we got there, my husband decided he was too tired to explore Lower Town, much to my disappointment. He found a shady spot to rest while I explored Lower Town by myself. I was gone for close to an hour but I could have stayed longer but didn't want him waiting by himself all that time. I know that some people walk up and down to both towns but there is no way we could have done that.

KarenWoo,
Once upon a time, I used a real camera but these days, I’ve been using only my iPhone (still using the 11 pro). I was a photographer so I see the limits of the phone but I also know that our travel photos are rarely ever printed and are generally only posted on line, so highest quality isn’t as essential. And, in good light, the iPhone is fantastic. With the interior shots, I just hold it very steady and keep my fingers crossed! In low light, it will get pixelized, anyway. But with thousands of photos, it doesn’t matter that much and I’ll get enough to post here!😉

After exploring the top of the Upper town, my husband was also exhausted and didn’t have the energy for too much more in the lower town. While I would’ve liked to have spent more time, we saw enough and got a good taste of what the Byzantine churches are like. Yes, even from the Upoer town parking lot, that was quite a hike and we both felt it. Of course, we watched others practically waltzing up and passing us on the way.

shelemm Sep 14th, 2024 03:08 AM

Wow, the Lower Town is even more stupendous. What's with the guy with a face in his stomach? Now that must be a backstory I'd like to hear.

Photos on the screen with the light coming out at you are more marvelous than print. You have taken many superb photos.

progol Sep 14th, 2024 06:02 AM

shelemm, Thank you again! Thanks for continuing to follow - I know it's taking me a while to post this TR and it makes me feel good to know that there are folks still following!!

Re: the mural -- I'm 90% sure that is the church of Demetrios and the painting is of the archangel Michael. I can't find any documentation quickly on the internet, but I'm guessing that he has "vanquished" Satan here. Not sure, someone else might know better, but that's my assumption.

progol Sep 14th, 2024 06:35 AM

Kardamyli and more...
A low-keyed kinda day… after the prior day's exploration of Mystras, we took it easy, enjoying a lovely walk near our hotel to Oitylo (see above pix) in the earlier part of the day. We then took a drive to Kardamyli, one of the larger towns in the Mani and the seat of the municipality of western Mani.

Perhaps it was the grey and damp day, or perhaps it’s just been too “discovered” but it reminded us more of Woodstock, New York - a cutesy, formerly charming town now overrun by tourist shops, rooms to let and lots of cars jamming the street. It wasn’t unpleasant, it was just too much a tourist town without having a real sense of location. Of course, we were a bit tired and not up to exploring much, and it is raining lightly so no inspiration to really wander. It wasn’t a bad experience, it just wasn’t unique.

We had an okay lunch at the Gialos restaurant, beautifully sited overlooking the water.

Driving back to Akrolithi Boutique hotel, .we hadn't seen many instances of sheep, but look - there are a few just off the road. But yikes, don’t get too close to them! Those dogs were serious!Heck, you can barely tell what these furry furballs are, anyway.

And then there was the cow on the road, only partly snapped. Any good captions?

progol Sep 14th, 2024 06:51 AM

Kardamyli - a half-hearted visit
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Kardamyli

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Gialos Restaurant

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Gialos Restaurant

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Gialos Restaurant

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Kardamyli church

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Those dogs were scary! I stuck my hand out the window and they were going to attack me! Those sheep are well-protected!

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Little furry lumps of wool

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Captions anyone?

progol Sep 14th, 2024 07:20 AM

From the Mani to Messenia
We left the Akrolithi Boutique hotel and the rugged and remote Mani to travel to the outer reaches of the Peloponnese, to visit Pylos, a lovely harbor town in Messenia, the most western of the Peloponnese’s 3 “fingers”. The Battle of Navarino, a turning point for Greece in its battle of Independence, was fought here.

We stayed at the Karalis Beach Hotel, overlooking the beach and water at the end of town. Pylos is wonderfully sited, with a castle above the town (castles everywhere here!), Nestor’s Palace down the road a bit, and several important medieval Venetian castles further down the road. The hotel overlooks the water and our 4 days here were wonderful! It was certainly one of our favorite hotels -- and won our best breakfast award, too!

The Karalis Beach Hotel is at the end of a street that is a short walk from the town center. After settling into the hotel, we realized it was time for a meal. The first restaurant we came to, 4 Seasons, looked charming with tables covered with blue-checked tablecloths and were placed right along the waterfront. A little breezy, but a comfortable spot - friendly service, and even better, the food was excellent. We ate there twice over the 4 days we were in Pylos.

We strolled around the town before relaxing back at the hotel.

progol Sep 14th, 2024 07:22 AM

Mani to Pylos drive

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A last look from our terrace at the Akrolithi Boutique hotel

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And we are off again!

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Love the landscape on the trip!

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progol Sep 14th, 2024 07:27 AM

Smitten by Pylos - arrival day
Although the day was cloudy and grey, there was something about Pylos that grabbed us right away. We also loved the Karalis Beach hotel - not only is it beautifully sited, but the staff were warm, welcoming and very helpful.

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4 Seasons Restaurant - Excellent service and food!

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4 Seasons restaurant
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waterfront walking back to hotel

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waterfront walking back to hotel

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Our small but lovely balcony

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progol Sep 14th, 2024 07:37 AM

Evening stroll
After our afternoon rest, we checked out a set of steps up to Pylos Castle; this seemed to be a back entrance so we took a quick peek and made plans to return when we had more time.

Then we walked into the town center and had a light bite in one of the smaller restaurants that lined the square, enjoying the ambience. Perhaps because it's early May, the town is not overly busy, but has a nice energy. There is a mix of locals and visitors, some Greek and others from elsewhere.

progol Sep 14th, 2024 07:43 AM

Evening stroll

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Evening view from our balcony

progol Sep 14th, 2024 10:42 AM

Breakfast at Karalis Beach Hotel
This was the best! Wonderful buffet, made-to-order eggs, excellent cappuccino, coffee or whatever you wanted. Served with such graciousness that the staff won our hearts. And what a beautiful breakfast room! The views, sigh...

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progol Sep 14th, 2024 10:46 AM

Ancient Messene
Ancient Messene, one of the best-preserved archeological sites in Greece, and one of the best kept secrets. Well, not a secret anymore, but you don’t see the crowds of visitors here that you see elsewhere in Greece. It’s in an area that’s still slightly off the beaten track, but is well worth the trek. It flourished in the 4th century BC and was never destroyed or settled over, leaving the site in a surprisingly good state over the millennia. Messene was a complete city, designed around a symmetrical grid, and had the remains of a theater, gymnasium, agora, and many temples and sanctuaries.

Although the morning skies had only a few clouds, we left Pylos as the clouds were becoming darker, but we were confident that a few drops wouldn’t bother us. We were awed when we arrived at the magnificent site of Messene, seeing the theater as we entered and noticing the many other structures far into the distance. We managed to see most of the site before the skies opened up and we got thoroughly drenched!

Still, it was worth every drop!

progol Sep 14th, 2024 10:59 AM

Ancient Messene - a wow(!) of a site!
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And then the skies opened up and poured down on us!

progol Sep 14th, 2024 11:59 AM

Venetian Castles - Methoni and KoroniA fantastic day! The weather was simply glorious, a perfect day to visit the Venetian castles. Methoni and Koroni, overlooking the Ionian Sea, were built in the early 13th C, important trade and marine centers — and, of course, important for defense.

Approaching and entering Methoni castle, we were taken by its immensity, though the interior is surprisingly open as the fortification once contained the old city of Methoni. The remains of a few hamams from Ottoman times remain as well as a more recent Orthodox Church.

We loved clambering over the ruins, peering through holes and arches in the walls, and walking over the small causeway to the short Bourtzoi tower, a prison and place of execution during the Turkish Occupation. The Venetian symbol, the Lion of St. Mark, adorns the entry gate and many of the walls throughout the complex. And the views of the sea and nearby islands were wonderful.

After visiting Methoni, we drove to Koroni, another town with a castle built by the Venetians and later occupied by the Ottomans. Except there really isn’t a castle anymore, rather, there are just crumbling remains of the fortifications, which encompass lots of houses and churches. We wandered a while, trying to locate a castle until we realized that we were in it. We saw an 8th century church, said to have the remains of a temple to Apollo nearby. The views are stunning from here and Koroni is said to have more of a Greek island-like feel, with many of its houses painted in traditional white with blue trim.

Having had our fill of castles and beautiful views, it was time to return to our own cozy corner.

progol Sep 14th, 2024 12:06 PM

Magnificent Methoni
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approaching the Bourtzi

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The long walk!

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progol Sep 14th, 2024 12:37 PM

Stunning Koroni
The town is very pretty and the views are magical! But we were pretty tired by the time we arrived, and it's very hilly. We drove up and down and all around before we found parking in a nondescript lot. It was only when a local reassured us that it was okay to park here did we feel safe to do so. And even then, we weren't sure! We did not visit the lower town, but that may've been a better place to park (though the walk uphill would not have been so much fun!).

While we enjoyed our time here, we were so blown away by Methoni, and wandering the area that was once defined by the castle but is no longer a defined site; rather, there are simply remnants of castle walls, an old monastery, but no clearly-defined route. We had a map be we couldn't make sense of it! Still, we managed to visit the 2nd of the 3 Venetian castles in this area, and that was what we wanted to do!

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