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Arriving in Glorious Nafplio
Leaving Athens was, surpsingingly, a bit sad. This was our second visit and we enjoyed it so much more than the first time. I really enjoyed the walking tour; seeing the Acropolis again; and generally getting a much better feel for the city. There really is so much more to see but, at least, we left with having a good experience. Thanks to Elias from Swift Cars, we were picked up right on time at our apartment by Dmitra, the representative from the rental car agency. She drove us just out of town, going over the car with my husband (the driver), leaving us only after we were comfortable with the car and knew where we were going. The car drove like a dream and we were off. The road to Nafplio was easy. I would’ve liked to have stopped along the way at the Corinth Canal, but these days, we tend to take it easy and get to our destination first, settle in and explore once we’re rested. Arrival in town, about 2 hours later, was pretty easy, too. We stayed in Pension Omorfi Poli, recommended by KarenWoo (thank you!). Located in the old part of town, the pension is a short walk from the waterfront and about a 10 minute walk from the huge (free!) parking lot, where we parked the car. I was very happy with the pension and its location, that was convenient to explore the town and its access to the parking lot. Even though there was a huge yacht show taking place when we arrived, we had no trouble finding parking and even though there were dozens of yachts parked for the next few days, we never felt overwhelmed by crowds. We stayed in a small apartment that was in a separate building just around the corner from the main pension. This is a long, simple space that had a comfortable bed, terrace, couch and kitchen area, which worked well for us since we were staying for 6 nights. Breakfast was served by the main pension and the beautiful weather allowed us to sit outside to eat every morning. They make a good cappuccino, too!! After a rest, we had lunch at the Taverna Archontiko half a block down from our apartment, a good meal - nothing memorable, but satisfying. We were hungry and it was there. And then to meander* the streets of Nafplio! A wonderful wander…. *Did you know that the word “meander” comes from the Menderes River in Turkey? I love to mention this since we actually saw the river from above and it twists and winds back and forth as it flows through the plain, so has come to mean anything convoluted and wandering! |
More Nafplio meandering
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...056a796c57.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9597867d6e.jpg Church of Ayios Georgios with Palamidi castle in the background https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3263f316ee.jpg Church of Ayios Georgios - interior https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a70723f8ca.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2209dc2839.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f50f0a0c66.jpg It was a few days before the Orthodox Easter and the shops were filled with Easter eggs and goodies! https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...057661aa7d.jpg It was a few days before the Orthodox Easter and the shops were filled with Easter eggs and goodies! https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ee9e7f7a07.jpg Gelato man outside of Gelato, one of several ice cream and gelato shops https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61b9f8804d.jpg My friend and I |
Mycenae
Mycenae, one of the great Greek cities of an important civilization that dominated Greece from 1600 to an our 1200. The Mycenaens were warriors, traders and were skilled in engineering and arts. The site, with a citadel at the center of what was once a large city, is magnificent and sited beautifully amongst the mountains with a great view of the surrounding countryside, a rugged but beautiful landscape. Seeing the magnificent Lion’s Gate, with its (now) headless lions at the top, is an awe-inspiring site. Walking through, passing the burial sites, coming to the top and imagining the fortification that once stood here, looking at the massive walls that surround the city, coming to the cistern, still retaining water that was once fed by a eucalyptus tree, and then visiting the remarkable Treasury of Atreus, or tholos (beehive tomb), is a truly breathtaking experience. We loved it. |
Archeological site of Mycenae
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cae780c1a3.jpg Approaching Mycenae https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...724a982b3d.jpg Approaching Mycenae https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14668912e4.jpg Lion Gate walkway https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d40045accc.jpg The magnificent Lion Gate https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bedeaabf90.jpg Grave circle https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...55889c8018.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b1c4e3ea84.jpg The walls surrounding the area https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b09f2d29bd.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...797311966f.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e4ec378838.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...76f74d8669.jpg Entering the cistern https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bf49b0980e.jpg Cistern entrance https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ca6a45647e.jpg |
The Treasury of Atreus, or tholos (beehive tomb)
This is one of the most remarkable structures anywhere - there's nothing like standing inside and looking up into the pointed dome. We were thrilled to absorb this remarkable space for a little while without any other tourists. Mycenae wasn't too crowded but there were tour groups arriving so we managed to view this between groups. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b7f7454fd1.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8787de02c2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...828687089c.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d66dbf3b77.jpg |
I am enjoying reliving our trip to Greece through your wonderful photos and report! I loved Nafplio
even though I had an accident there. I received excellent medical care in their hospital and was only charged 3€! I was happy to see that you went to the top of Lycabettus Hill as I don’t think many visitors go up there. Greece remains one of my all time favorite places to visit after two trips there. Thanks so much for writing this report. I am along for the ride! |
Wow! I don't know where to begin. Firstly, I, too, am enjoying reliving our trip to Greece through you. Nafplio is so amazing! So beautiful with all the bougainvillea. I love your photo that captured not only the bougainvillea but the petals on the ground. And love gelato man! How cute!
In Mycenae I notice your photos focus on the rocks and boulders strewn about, and I think that makes the scenery so much more interesting. And I don't know how we missed the beehive tomb. I looked through our photos and we don't have any so I'm sure it's not a case of not remembering. Somehow we just missed it. Too bad. And maybe it's a typo but there are actually 999 steps to the top of the Palamidi Fortress. Needless to say, we drove up to the top.:) |
We also climbed up to the top of Lycabettus Hill on our last afternoon/evening in Athens. I clocked close to 27000 steps that day and my feet were killing. Needless to say I was definitely happy to be seated on the plane the next day! 😉
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HappyTrvlr, thanks so much! I’m glad you’re enjoying this trip report and it’s bringing back (mostly) good memories - though how awful to have had an accident while you were in Nafplio. It’s wonderful to know you got great care and only got charged the unbelievable amount of €3!,
KarenWoo, thank you! I’m thrilled that you’re enjoying this - the bougainvillea was just so beautiful throughout the town! And thank you for the correction - the “93 steps” was definitely a typo! I could manage 93 steps but not 999! The Treasury of Atreus (beehive tomb) is located on the road just before the entrance to the fortification so it’s understandable that you missed it. I’d visited in the early 70s and knew to look for it. |
geetika, you CLIMBED to the top of Lycabettus Hill?! We took the cab as far as we could go and it was still a hike up - but no way were we going to start from the bottom! I’m sure sitting on the plane was a welcome relief!!
I’m truly impressed - that is a big hill! |
progol, you’re telling me! I was egged on by my niece, nephew and his girlfriend, all in their twenties. And here I was almost forty years older and nowhere as fit as them. But that’s part of the fun of traveling with youngsters, they make you push yourself. Which is why I always enjoy reading about Seamus’s trips with his nieces and nephews. I have been taking mine on vacation every year since they were in high school, it’s been a pleasure watching them mature into well traveled adults with an enquiring and open mind.
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What a fabulous report - lots of great info! And the photos are just stunning 🤩
Thank you 🙏 |
geetika - what a wonderful aunt you are!
helenvj, thank you so much for your sweet words! there is more to come!! |
I envy that you were there at such a magnificent time to see those flowers. So much vitality!
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shelemm, Nafplio was magnificent, probably the lushest place on our trip. Although we had plenty of greenery and more flowers, I don't think any other place had the profusion of flowers that Nafplio had. I can't complain, though -- it really was a delight.
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Horseplay!
We stopped at what was called an antique center and found the Trojan Horse! There were no other antiques but this was worth the stop to see them up close. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...79f692d1a1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b0194af733.jpg |
Market
We arrived in Nafplio just at the end of the outdoor market just below Palamidi Fortress was coming to an end. We were on the search for fresh figs but alas (we city folk forget this) they weren't in season till the end of the summer. A brief rest back at our charming pension before we head out for an afternoon adventure. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20e9d8554b.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8917cd46ab.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3f6dd4cb6a.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4c5f95f63c.jpg So lush!! |
Oh, I love the Trojan horse, that story is the stuff of dreams! 😍 Have always wanted to visit Troy in Turkiye, but I believe it’s not a very interesting site, unlikely some of the magnificent ones in that country.
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Thanks for the TR, Progol-love the photos and was esp interested in your discussion of Milan (a city I've only passed through several times on my way to some other wonderful place). Have been meaning to organize a trip that has me staying in Milan. Your photos and discussion have me thinking more seriously about doing so sooner rather than later. And great to know re the well priced all business class airline out of Newark. I used to fly from Vegas to London for a regular work event on a now defunct airline (the name of which escapes me now) only bec it got me cheap business seats.
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Progol – Thanks for one more of your wonderful TRs! I always take lots of notes - so much information. Now I need to include Milan and stay in this hotel in my next trip to Italy 😊 – looks great. Also want to revisit Nafplio to see the bougainvillea blooming like in your beautiful pictures – stunning! And we did climb the 999 steps of the Palamidi Fortress! But that was back in Sep/2014 on a port-day cruise visit.
Love your fabulous pictures and descriptions of places and adventures! |
progol,
Thank you for a great report and posting exceptional photos. Your enjoyment of the trip is evident. While in Milan did you consider visiting The Last Supper? |
I'm still reading, and enjoying this so much. Thank you!! Where was that Trojan horse? I'd love to see it.
We'll be in Napflio in October, I wonder is bougainvillea will still be in bloom.... |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17587637)
I repeat what shelemm just said. Wow, wow, wow!!! The photos of Milan are gorgeous! And thanks for including the photos of the Hotel Gran Duca di York. I made our reservations yesterday based on your recommendation.
Did you go to the Milan Duomo rooftop? If not this trip, then 25 years ago? Are there elevators that bring you to the rooftop? Did you buy tickets in advance to enter? We will be in Milan for 3 nights at the beginning of our trip, and then the last night of our trip. So we should be able to spend the last afternoon and evening in Milan. I am thinking of taking a daytrip to Bergamo when we first arrive. Based on your experience being in Milan twice, does that give us enough time there? Just curious what you think. We can always make our decision about Bergamo when we are there. I notice that people are wearing long pants and jackets in Milan at the end of April. I guess I thought it would be warmer. We will be there from May 3 through May 5. Will make a note to pack the proper clothing. I had envisioned wearing capris and short sleeves every day but I guess not! on Bergamo we stayed there one trip and found it underwhelming relative to other towns. |
geetika and xyz99, That Trojan horse is quite something to see! Though it's oddly sitting outside of what looks like a former antique store with several other (empty) stores around it. Maybe they are busier at another time but we didn't see anyone around. This is on the main road on the way to Mycenae; I think it's pretty close to the site.
geetika, we didn't make it to Troy, either (though we did get to Turkey over 20 years ago). xyz99, I read somewhere that the bougainvillea is there until the winter, so maybe you'll get to see it. It's magical! leifields, I'm impressed that you walked up all those steps to the Palamidi Castle! I took one look and said "Nope!" So we were happy to find the back way up by car -- much, much easier!! Thank you for your sweet words! mendota - My husband and I were in Milan 25 years earlier and saw The Last Supper then so we didn't feel the need to see it again. But I'd recommend it to everyone - it's remarkable to see. I'm glad you're enjoying the report!! yestravel, when we go to Milan again, I'll make sure to arrange a guide through the Greeters. That's a good organization, too. More to come, everyone -- just a lot of life stuff to deal with right now and haven't had time to get back to this. But I promise more very soon!! |
Originally Posted by yestravel
(Post 17589437)
hi Karen, we have stayed in Milan a couple times and always enjoy our time there. The last trip for three days was in Spring 2023. We used a guide through the Breeters which was quite good.
on Bergamo we stayed there one trip and found it underwhelming relative to other towns. I know everyone has their own opinions about places. Just wondering if you think Bergamo is worth a daytrip from Milan? This will be our only time in this part of Italy so our only chance to visit Bergamo. Is there another nearby town you would recommend spending a day at? We are staying one night in Parma. |
Bourtzi castle
Bourtzi castle, a fortification on a small island just a quick boat ride from the Nafplio waterfront, was a pleasant afternoon activity. The small boats run frequently and it took no more than a few minutes to reach the island. The Bourtzi, or “tower” in Turkish, was built in 1471 by an Italian architect from Bergamo, and in 1473, under the Venetians, served to protect the area from pirates. In 1871, it was the home of the city’s executioner - maybe he needed to be safely away from the city folk! And it was a hotel from 1930-1970 - I’m sure it was a dreamy place to be during those days. Now it’s a quick visit to enjoy the views of the mainland and the gorgeous blues of the water. And for those who know M and his love of language…he has been learning Chinese (Mandarin) for over 10 years now and he amazed a family from Shanghai when he spoke with them in Mandarin! The one couple's son was quite stunned when M spoke with him directly but then started chatting away (M understanding a tiny bit!). It was very charming! |
Bourtzi Castle
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3b6e6b70a2.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...382c68afec.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...202c678b56.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eda2defe49.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a01a3cfe53.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e597a11702.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7b7cdf6d32.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...61bb75d713.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9c29ff0ec9.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...84cb363ba1.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4be359c8c2.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2796802d32.jpg |
And because there are never too many photos with bougainvillea...here are a few more around Nafplio
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c41594512b.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8987eae5f3.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e2436b75fe.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...56be7803db.jpg The front door to our apartment building (we were up a flight) |
Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17589668)
Hi yestravel!
I know everyone has their own opinions about places. Just wondering if you think Bergamo is worth a daytrip from Milan? This will be our only time in this part of Italy so our only chance to visit Bergamo. Is there another nearby town you would recommend spending a day at? We are staying one night in Parma. Our last trip Spring 2023, we started at Lake Orta, about a 45 minute drive from the airport in Milan. We absolutely loved it. Beautiful, rather peaceful place. Lots of day trips from there. Its gets day trippers esp,school kids going on the short ferry ride to Isola San Guilio. BTW we loved Parma,nice non touristy town that we thoroughly enjoyed. |
EpidavrosEpidauros/Epidavros, once a reknowned healing sanctuary in the classical world, is famous for its remarkable theater, built into a side of a hill and looks out onto a lush valley. The theater was built in the 4th century to host ceremonial events in honor of the god Asclepius, the god of medicine in Ancient Greek mythology.
The theater is magnificent - perfectly symmetrical with great acoustics. The theater up to 15,000 people! The small stone circle in the middle of the orchestra (the round floor space) was built with a hollow underground space which projected the voices upward. While standing on it, I could hear my voice resonating. There were too many other people to really test this effectively, but it is possible to be heard in the upper reaches of the theater without any audio equipment! We then explored the remaining ruins and visited the small museum. While the ruins left are essentially foundations of structures, it is impressive to see how extensive the site is. There is a stadium, which held competitions honoring Apollo and his son, Asclepius. The sanctuary, or Asklepieion, was the place where people went to be healed. There were several buildings that made up the sanctuary. The small museum held some lovely objects and my favorite was a large tablet which listed the account of expenses for the construction of the Tholos on the site! |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...168e1e9f03.jpg
Approaching the theater - it's impressive! https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6577bf0c91.jpg The voice "resonator" https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6893bc7019.jpg "Hellooooooooo up there!" https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...09cf45dc45.jpg But it's even more impressive the further up you go!! https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f6b69258d.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...20982abdde.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f6ae3a5252.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d1a8ee5cc.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...199571c0a5.jpg Entrance to one of the buildings where people stayed while waiting to be healed https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c791307f4.jpg Stadium https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...58e711d4eb.jpg The tablet listing the accounts for the construction of the buildings! https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23d32dfb8e.jpg Tablet - closeup |
Originally Posted by studenttobe
(Post 17589036)
Thanks for the TR, Progol-love the photos and was esp interested in your discussion of Milan (a city I've only passed through several times on my way to some other wonderful place). Have been meaning to organize a trip that has me staying in Milan. Your photos and discussion have me thinking more seriously about doing so sooner rather than later. And great to know re the well priced all business class airline out of Newark. I used to fly from Vegas to London for a regular work event on a now defunct airline (the name of which escapes me now) only bec it got me cheap business seats.
And if you’re near Newark airport, La Compagnie is a gem of an airline. Since it’s got limited flights and destinations, it’s not for everyone, but it’s definitely a good airline to fly. |
Those keyholes in the fort's turrets are quite the detail.
Magnificent theatre at Epidaurus equals its setting, And I see from the tablet of accounts that they overpaid for carpeting. Some things never change! |
Originally Posted by yestravel
(Post 17589683)
Hi! We stayed a night or two in Bergamo a few trips back.. we were underwhelmed with it.
Our last trip Spring 2023, we started at Lake Orta, about a 45 minute drive from the airport in Milan. We absolutely loved it. Beautiful, rather peaceful place. Lots of day trips from there. Its gets day trippers esp,school kids going on the short ferry ride to Isola San Guilio. BTW we loved Parma,nice non touristy town that we thoroughly enjoyed. |
Agree the theater at Epidaurus is magnificent!!!
Love your additional photos of Nafplio and all the gorgeous bougainvillea!! When I was planning our trip I was told that Nafplio and Chania are the two most beautiful towns/villages in Greece. Haven't been to Crete so can't comment on Chania but I certainly agree about Nafplio! |
Thanks, Progol—I’m thinking of a trip to Italy this spring (as an add on to a possible work trip to Germany), and am very likely to add a few nights in Milan to what I hope will also involve a stay in Rome. I’ve saved your report for inspiration and guidance. You’ve never steered me wrong! And on the airline—yes, definitely going to keep it in mind. I try to upgrade to business on intl flights using miles on United/Lufthansa (I’m in that ecosystem), but it’s not always possible, and would definitely be worth a stop in Newark as a way to fly to Europe in business at a price w/in my budget. Thanks again for your, as always, useful and inspiring report. (Also loved your discussion and photos of Greece—I’ve visited many of the places in Greece that you did and loved them all, though it was many moons ago.)
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Originally Posted by KarenWoo
(Post 17589974)
Agree the theater at Epidaurus is magnificent!!!
Love your additional photos of Nafplio and all the gorgeous bougainvillea!! When I was planning our trip I was told that Nafplio and Chania are the two most beautiful towns/villages in Greece. Haven't been to Crete so can't comment on Chania but I certainly agree about Nafplio! Funny, I remember reading Nafplio and Chania were the 2 most beautiful villages and were similar. I was initially disappointed in Nafplio because we both loved Chania and it didn't initially feel as special since the old town is very much geared to a moderately high end tourist population. But over the time we were there, we really fell in love with Nafplio. The location is terrific and the feeling of the place really grew on us. |
Originally Posted by studenttobe
(Post 17590104)
Thanks, Progol—I’m thinking of a trip to Italy this spring (as an add on to a possible work trip to Germany), and am very likely to add a few nights in Milan to what I hope will also involve a stay in Rome. I’ve saved your report for inspiration and guidance. You’ve never steered me wrong! And on the airline—yes, definitely going to keep it in mind. I try to upgrade to business on intl flights using miles on United/Lufthansa (I’m in that ecosystem), but it’s not always possible, and would definitely be worth a stop in Newark as a way to fly to Europe in business at a price w/in my budget. Thanks again for your, as always, useful and inspiring report. (Also loved your discussion and photos of Greece—I’ve visited many of the places in Greece that you did and loved them all, though it was many moons ago.)
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I continue to love your report to many places we have visited and enjoyed. Someone upthread mentioned Lake Orta which is among the very few places we wished we had skipped. We kept driving back down to Lake Maggiore which we much preferred.
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