Spain Trip Report - Kaudrey returns
 

Hi,

I just returned Saturday from 2 lovely weeks in Spain. This trip report will come in pieces over the next week, so bear with me.

The basics about me and the trip, to give some perspective: I am 34, female, and I traveled alone. I stayed in 2* or 3* hotels - not budget but not fancy, either. I booked the entire trip on-line and through emails. I speak enough Spanish to order food, buy tickets, make reservations for things etc. The basics - it came in handy sometimes.

I loved everywhere I went, but Andalucia holds a special place in my heart.

It is not cheap to be a tourist in Spain. Cathedrals, Alcazars, museums, etc charge quite a bit of money to get into. 5 euros here, 7 euros there - it adds up. I am spoiled living in DC, where the Smithsonians are free. I did keep track of the total money I spent, but I haven't added it up yet. Not sure I want to!

I used a money belt and the hotel safes, but I never felt unsafe anywhere. No one bothered me. However, I am a city girl and I am pretty good at looking like I know where I am going even if I am hopelessly lost. Others I talked to on the trip had to shoo people away - in Sevilla and Barcelona, but I didn't hear of anyone getting pickpocketed. It's probably partly because things are not very crowded in February.

I thought February was a great time to be in Spain. Minimal crowds, no lines, weather was great for walking around (except for my last rainy, cold day in Barcelona). However, some places didn't do tours in English in the winter.

The itinerary: 4 nights in Madrid with day trips to Toledo and Segovia, 3 nights in Sevilla, stopping in Cordoba on the way from Madrid, 2 nights in Ronda with a stop in Arcos de la Frontera, 1 night in Granada, and 4 nights in Barcelona, with a day trip to Monserrat.

More to come...next, hotel reviews...then the trip...

Karen

Hi Karen,

I'm anxiously awaiting your trip report. I'm the woman from NYC who is staying at the Hostal Palacios in May. We are going to Madrid after Barcelona. Where did you stay in Madrid? We are staying at the Hostal Acapulco on the Plaza Carmen.

Thanks, Rachele.

To continue, here are my hotel reviews. The fun stuff (the actual trip), will have to wait until next installment...

Madrid: High Tech Petit Palace Ducal, Calle Hortaleza 3. This hotel is literally across the street from the Gran Via Metro. 5 minute walk to Puerto del Sol, about a 7 minute walk to Retiro Park and the Prado. Modern, spacious room. I had asked for a single but had a double bed, and big bathroom (for European standards), and a shower with multiple shower heads (very relaxing). They had a high speed internet access computer guests could use for free. Breakfast was included and was quite nice. Safe in the room, hairdryer. I would highly recommend this hotel. For reference to those researching, it is near Hotel Gaudi and Hotel Gran Via.

Sevilla - Hotel Alcantara. This hotel is basic but in a perfect location. Right in the heart of Barrio Santa Cruz, and quiet because it's on a pedestrian street. Clean, comfortable, big bathroom, the staff is very nice. Has safes at the front desk but no hairdryer in the room. I borrowed one from the front desk every morning with no problem. I'd recommend this hotel as long as you don't want luxury. Great price given the great location! I didn't eat breakfast here.

Ronda - Hotel San Gabriel - my favorite of the trip. Right in the old part of town, beautiful old mansion, lovely furnishings. I asked for a single but again had a double bed, big bathroom. The staff was wonderful. This was my most expensive hotel and it was definitely worth it. Highly recommend.

Granada - Hotel Anacapri. Modern looking, room was basic and single-sized. Clean, comfortable, great location just at the edge of the Albaicin neighborhood and a block from the cathedral. Desk staff was wonderful. Again, good price for the location, not much individual charm, but I'd recommend it if you are looking for the price range.

Barcelona - Hostal Palacios - 2 blocks from Placa Catalunya, it's a good location if you don't mind walking a little to get to La Rambla and Barri Gotic, which I didn't. The room was basic, but clean, good-sized bathroom, the lounge area is very nice with a couch, chairs, and a fireplace. It's a pretty, old building on a busy street but I had a room that looked over an alley, so it was quiet, but no view. They had a computer with internet access that they let me use for free even though a sign said they would charge me, which was nice. I'd say the room was comparable to Alcantara in Sevilla. It was about what I expected for the "moderate" price range I was looking for.

The only hotel I ate breakfast in was in Madrid, since it was included. Everywhere else, I found cafes every morning for tostada and cafe con leche.

OK, the fun stuff comes next - what I actually did in all of these places!

Karen

Kaudrey,

Welcome home! I can't wait for your report - I head to Spain in less than 3 weeks!

SRS

Kaudrey,

I am eager to read the rest of your report. We will be leaving for Spain in 2 1/2 weeks.

Day 1: Friday: Flight

Flew Delta DCA-JFK-MAD. The flight to Madrid was not full, so I was able to have a 2-seat section to myself, which helped me sleep a little. Flight was fine, food was actually pretty decent. Uneventful, which is how I like my flights!

Day 2: Saturday: Land and tour Madrid

Landing before 7am does not make figuring out what to do very easy. The info desk didn?t know about the Aerocity bus, which I had not booked ahead of time, and I did not see a booth for them. The RENFE office wasn?t open so I couldn?t buy my tickets to Cordoba and Sevilla for later in the week as planned. So, I decided to metro to my hotel. I bought a 10-trip ticket for about 5 euros, and used 2 connections to metro to my hotel. It took about 45 minutes total. I wouldn?t recommend this if you have a lot of luggage, because there are a lot of stairs, but I packed light so it wasn?t a problem.

I got to the hotel at 8:15am. My room obviously wasn?t ready, but they held my luggage, and my touring began. Prado opened at 9am, so I first walked down to Retiro Park and walked through part of the park. Very nice, and I had to mostly to myself on Saturday morning this early! I get to the Prado at 9am exactly, and there is a huge line! I am somewhat shocked, until I realize that the line is for a temporary Manet exhibit that is ending the next day. I skip that line, go to the regular entrance, and walk right it. I have the Prado mostly to myself. This next part is probably blasphemy, but everyone is different, right? I spend about 1 hour there and then leave. I hit the highlights. I am more into sculpture than portraiture, and the art there didn?t interest me that much.

I go to Reina Sofia, and I like this much better. I like the work of Picasso, Dali, and Juan Gris. Guernica was amazing to see in person. It is so big and just overwhelming. I spend about 1 hour here too (it?s smaller than the Prado).

Since I am across the street from the Antocha train station, where RENFE is, I go there to buy my Cordoba and Sevilla train tickets for Wednesday. No problem, although the woman didn?t speak English, so my limited Spanish helped get me the right tickets!

I go to the Palacio Real. I get there right before a tour starts, so I jump on ? good timing! Beautiful. I love palaces. The church next door is closed as they prep for the May wedding. At 2pm, I metro back to the hotel. I am exhausted. When in Spain, do as the Spaniards do ? siesta!

After a 2 hour nap and a quick shower, I walk to Puerto del Sol and Plaza Mayor. I see Tigger and Mickey Mouse in Puerta del Sol! It was totally touristy, but cute. I walk down around the Cava Baja area ? the wine bars and tapas places that Maribel suggests are packed, so I pick another one and have a glass of wine and some tapas. I spend some time watching the performers in Plaza Mayor and window shopping. I am tired, so I head back to my hotel around 10pm for a good night?s sleep. On my first day, I cannot embrace the ?eating late? concept.

Day 3: Sunday: Toledo

I take the bus to Toledo. I was glad I had Maribel?s description of where the bus station was next to the Hotel Florida. No problems! Although it is supposed to be 1 hour 15 minutes, on a Sunday with no traffic, we get there in 40 minutes. I take the local bus up the hill to Plaza Zacodover. The Alcazar is closed for renovations, but I walk up the hill to see it. This whole town is hills ? up hill, down hill, back and forth. I love it! There are so many little narrow winding streets that you think cars can?t possibly drive on, until you have to jump into a door way to avoid being clobbered by a side-view mirror. At 10am on a Sunday morning, I am wandering the streets of Toledo by myself. It is eerily silent, and peaceful. Nothing is open yet, it is a brisk morning, and I totally embrace the little town.

I visit the Cathedral, the Jewish quarter, several smaller churches, a small mesquita. I look for things on the map. Success is hit or miss, at least the first time. There are occasional signs, but mostly I just let myself head in the general direction of things until I really AM lost. I passed several plazas 3 or 4 times, not always meaning to. I sit in the plazas and enjoy the sunshine. I walk to the Puenta Alcantara, a stone bridge from the 1200s. I figure I walked about 5 or 6 miles up and down those hills. I take the bus back to Madrid. I have dinner at Botin, which is the oldest restaurant in the world. It was excellent, relatively pricey, but worth it.

Note to Myer: I tried to figure out your question about the train/bus to Toledo, with no success. The woman I bought my RENFE tickets from didn't speak English, the bus company didn't know, and neither did the Tourist Information office. They just kept saying to take the bus. SORRY!

Tomorrow: Segovia, my last day in Madrid, Cordoba, and beyond...

Karen

Sorry about the question marks. They are supposed to be apostrophes or dashes - damn Word conversion!

:)

Karen

Thank you for your wonderful trip report. Can't wait for the next installments!

Thanks everyone! People on this board sometimes ask if they should take a trip by themselves. I say YES. I liked traveling alone, although at dinner it would have been nice to have a companion. But it was great setting my own pace and doing what I wanted when I wanted. As you'll see later in the trip report, I met up with others as I traveled (including 2 Fodorites), many of whome were traveling solo, so that was fun and gave me different people to spend time with.

Anyway, to continue the trip:
Day 4: Monday: Segovia

Despite waking up with sore calves from my trek around Toledo, I head to Segovia. More hills! I take the bus here, too, but from a different bus station and with a different bus company. Both buses were very comfortable. I had printed off schedules for both day trips from the bus companies? websites before I left. It takes a little over an hour. The Aqueduct is immense and very cool to see. The cathedral is very big, the Alcazar is very interesting ? I love the towers. 152 steps up to the top of one of the towers, not that I was counting. (And besides, later towers have MANY more steps!). The Alcazar overlooks a valley/gorge, and you can go to the other side.

I decide to tackle this after lunch. By now I am learning the Spanish way of life, so lunch is around 2pm. I sit outside at a café and talk to a young couple with a baby from Philadelphia. Then I go back to the cliff that leads down to the valley via a muddy path cut into it. I cross the valley, and walk up the other side. My legs get a great workout by the time I have to go back UP that muddy path.

On a Monday in February, there is no one else here. The monastery and the church that are on the far side of the valley are not open (which I knew), but the view of the town from this side is worth the walk. It is a crisp, clear day. I run into one person in the hour I am walking around this side, and he gives me my one ?This is it, I?m going to die in Spain and no one will ever find me? moment. I?m kidding, but it was kind of funny. I stop to take a picture of the Alcazar. I haven?t seen anyone in 20 minutes, and then here comes this guy up the path. He is wearing all black, chains, 2 face piercings, shaved head. I am a city girl, and he?s just someone you?d avoid in a dark alley at night. In a millisecond, I have dark thoughts of being robbed, and as he approaches, I say ?Hola?, he says ?Hola, como esta??, and keeps walking on. It was so peaceful on that side of the valley, looking at the city, that I found a patch of grass and sat, and just relaxed by myself for about ? hour before heading back.

I take the bus back to Madrid, metro to the hotel, and rest. I check emails. I email Sara, a fellow Fodorite who I plan to meet up with in Sevilla, and she will be there my second night. Awesome! A touring buddy. I walk to Plaza Santa Ana and have tapas at a Hemingway haunt, Cerveceria Alemana. It was fine, nothing special. I read through my notes and try to figure out what to do tomorrow. Then I decide to shop. I walk past Casa Mira and buy some chocolates, per Maribel?s suggestion. Yum! Stores are open late, so I wander through Cortes Ingles near Puerto del Sol. Even with the sales, things are too expensive for me, but it was fun to look.

To be continued...

I hate these stupid question marks were my punctuation is supposed to be! Sorry. After today, maybe I'll type on Fodor's and copy to Word, instead of the other way around...

Day 5: Madrid

I sleep in a little, have breakfast, and hit the Amex office. I don?t have any definitive plans for today. I walk down to the Fountain of Neptune, and do my best Frogger imitation to get close for a picture. I don?t think you are supposed to go right up to the fountain, but I did. Then I went to the Monastery of Descalez Reales. You have to go on a tour, which would have been fine except it was in Spanish! Oops. I understand maybe 20 percent of it, but it was still interesting.

I walk to the Teatro Real, forgetting it was closed on Tuesday. Oops. I look for other highlights from Maribel?s notes ? El Torno, for sweets from the nuns. I find it, but it?s closed. I find the Chocolateria de San Gines (I go there tonight for chocolate and churros, and was in heaven as my arteries clogged shut!). The church there ? Iglesia de San Gines, it very pretty. I wander around Cava Baja some more and have lunch outside at a café. Then I decide to go back to Retiro Park. It?s a beautiful day and there are lots of people around. I hang out in the park, but of course, the 2 buildings you can visit there are closed Tuesday. Oh well. Then I shoe shop. I search in vain for shoes, but the shoes are narrow or expensive or not in my size. Really, how would I carry them anyway? I find tapas and wine, then the previously mentioned chocolate and churros. Good thing I walked a lot today!

Day 6: Madrid to Cordoba to Sevilla

I get up early because I have bought 8:30 AVE tickets to Cordoba. I metro to the train. The train is comfortable and not crowded. When I get to Cordoba, I take a cab to Mezquita, but I decide to see the Alcazar first because it closes at 2pm. The gardens are worth it ? they are beautiful, even in February. The Alacazar was kind of plain, compared to others, but still nice. Back at the Mezquita, I have my first run in with gypsies. They try to give me rosemary and tell my fortune, but I just say ?no, gracias? and keep walking.

The Mezquita is undergoing some renovation but is amazingly beautiful. The mix of mosque and church is odd to see ? it shows a lot about Spanish history. I then wander around and get lost in the Jewish quarter (I seem to be getting good at that!). Maps only go so far in the old sections of these cities. I sit outside at a little tapas place and people watch. I see the renowned Casa Pepe, but it is more than I want to spend on lunch, so I pass.

Then I head on the AVE train to Sevilla. Takes about 45 minutes. I grab a cab to my hotel. This is an experience in itself ? now instead of being the pedestrian jumping into doorways, I am in the car that is trying to take people out! I check in to my hotel, get a map, and wander the little streets, finding the Cathedral and the Alcazar, and a bunch of the tapas places suggested by either Maribel or the guidebooks. I wander down to the river and see the Torre de Oro and several big plazas. I find an Internet place and IM my DBF for a while.

I stop at Bar Patanchon for a glass of wine and tapas. Maribel suggested fried camembert with raspberry sauce ? it was fabulous! I wouldn?t have known about it because it wasn?t on their outside menu ? you had to get their full listing to see it.

My hotel is next to Casa de la Memoria, where there is flamenco every night. So, I go. It is 11 euros. It is smaller than what other more expensive shows are ? it?s one dancer, one singer, and a guitarist. It seems intimate because it is in a pretty little courtyard and I?d say there was room for about 50 people or so. It sold out. It lasted about 1 hour. I thoroughly enjoyed it, but it was not flashy, as I envision some of the bigger venues might be (just from pictures at tourist shops).

To be continued later...
Karen

Hello again Karen,

Great to read your report & very much looking forward to your thoughts on Barcelona!

Jim

Karen,

Your report is wonderful - I can't wait to go to Spain! And for more segments!

SRS

Really enjoying your report! We'll wait for the next batch.

Terrific report Karen! I'd love to get a copy of Maribel's Spain file if possible.

Thanks!

One more, on my lunch break:

Have I mentioned that the "Walk/Don?t Walk" signs chirp like birds when you should walk? Every time I go to cross the street, I feel just a little like a Pavlov dog - hear noise, walk.

Day 7: Thursday: Sevilla

First I visit the Alcazar. They only do tours of the upper palace in Spanish in winter, so I skip that part. The tile in this Alcazar is amazingly beautiful, as is the intricate detailing of the archways.

Then to the cathedral, right next door. The cathedral is beautiful and typical and I am starting to feel a little like I've had enough of cathedrals. Except that Columbus is buried here, so that was pretty interesting. The cathedral also has the Giralda tower, which you must go up, of course, because it is there. It has ramps instead of steps. Up, up, up you go around and around 34 times. Great view - take note, the bells are loud when you are right next to them!

I wander around Santa Cruz and visit the pretty Jardines de Murillo. I walk down to Plaza de Espana and the Parque Maria Luisa. I relax in the park near a fountain in a pond - it's a beautiful day and I just sit for a while, enjoying the quiet.

I eat lunch and hit the internet cafe - Sara, a fellow Fodorite, has arrived in Sevilla and suggests we meet at 7:30 for tapas. I do some shopping on Sevilla's main shopping streets, but don't buy anything.

I meet up with Sara, and we get acquainted for a while and decide to hop from tapas bar to tapas bar. We hit a bunch in "our neighborhood", and in one, we meet Miguel. Miguel is from Valencia, in Sevilla on business, and he speaks perfect English with a British accent. That was weird to hear! But he spent a few years in London getting his masters degree, so it made sense.

Miguel, Sara and I tapa-bar hopped a little more and then end up at Flaherty's, an Irish pub near the cathedral. We drink and dance to cheesy American 80s music until the wee hours of morning...

Rachele - if you give me your email address, I will send Maribel's files to you.

Karen

Thank you so much! It's [email protected]

You've been a great help -- let me know if you ever need any good NYC tips!

Kaudrey - thanks a lot for your feedback! My friend and I are leaving for Spain in less than a month!

What kind of clothes did y ou need to bring as far as weather? We are trying to pack light for mid-late march and are struggling with option of jackets with hood vs just an umbrella and taking fleece pullovers to protect against any 'chill' in the evenings.

SEgovia - how long did you spend there before returning to Madrid that evening? We're doing the same thing also..

Cordoba - did you take up the whole day there before leaving for SEville in the evening??

Thanks so much for any feedback!!!!

Thanks for your report. We'll be going to Madrid, Toledo, and Segovia in May. It was great to read a first hand account of these cities. It sounds like you really know how to enjoy yourself, even when alone, I admire that. Thanks again!

HI,
I am going to Barcelona for a conference at the end of March. I like to do some sight seeing at the same time too. I am thinking travelling to Madrid, Toledo and Montseurat. Should I buy train tickets ahead or is it OK to buy them when I get there? Also, would 3 days be enough time to tour Madrid, Toledo and Montseurat and have enough time to get back to Barcelona for the return flight?

Thanks.

MN

Hi Karen, it's nice to have a report of your trip... can't wait to see the one on Barcelona! I'll be travelling to Spain in June to walk the St James Way and I'll stay for about 3 days in Barcelona just on my own. Incidentally, I'm 34 and a female too, haha...

Just some travel questions:
1. I don't know a word of Spain and is it still ok to travel in Barcelona?
2. Do I have to pre-purchase ticket on regional trains or is it ok to buy on the spot?
3. Any seedy area I should avoid staying at in Barcelona? I don't want to book my hotel/hostel in the wrong area!

Thanks in advance,
Tweety

Wow - guys (and girls), thanks for all the great feedback! I am trying to balance info and anecdotes to be helpful - hopefully I'm succeeding a little.

I'll post the next day later, but to answer the questions where I can:

Rachele - I sent you Maribel's files. I grew up on Long Island and worked in NYC for 8 years, but thanks for the offer anyway!

Travel04 - I brought long sleeve shirts and 1 turtleneck. The temp at night was in the high 30s/low 40s in Madrid and Barcelona, and Barcelona was chilly most of the time I was there. I didn't have a heavy winter coat, more of a "light winter coat" if that makes sense. It was fine. There was only 2 nights I wished I had brought gloves.

I took the 9am bus to Segovia, and I believe I took a 6pm bus back.

For Cordoba, I took the 8:30am AVE train from Madrid, and I believe I caught the 3:44 AVE from Cordoba to Sevilla.

Anika - thanks for the kind words. I loved both Toledo and Segovia, so I hope you do, also!

At12am01 - If you are in Barcelona, Monserrat is easy - it's about 1 hour train ride and then a cable car ride to the top. You can spend 1 hour or all day there, depending on what you want to see or do.

Madrid and Toledo are nowhere near Barcelona. It is about a 6 hour drive, or I think a 3 or 4 hour train ride (can someone confirm that - I didn't do this). So to see them from Barcelona is a trek. Going to Madrid for a day is kind of a waste from Barcelona, IMHO.

If you only have 3 days and are in Barcelona, I'd suggest Monserrat, maybe a trip to Stiges, and maybe a trip to the vineyards a little north of Barcelona.

Tweety - Many people in Barcelona speak at least some English - especially at the tourist sights. You'll be fine. Regional trains - I traveled off season, so I don't really know how crowded they get in season. I think you could buy them once you get there, but in advance of your trip. If you stay near Barri Gothic or Eixample, I think you'll be OK as far as neighborhoods, but I'm not an expert. I didn't feel unsafe anywhere, but always be alert!

OK, I must work now. I'll try to post again at lunch!

Karen

Karen,

Thank you for your report. My husband and I will be going to Madrid, then driving to Jaen, Granada, Ronda and Seville. We would like to take the AVE train back to Madrid. I am not sure if I should book the tickets in advance or wait till I get to Spain. Any suggestions? If I can buy them in Spain, should I do it a few days in advance or can I buy them right at the railway station in Seville? The price on the web is $80pp one way. Did you pay the same?

I appreciate any info.
Also, I booked San Sebastian in Ronda- it looks terrific on the site!

I promise to write my own report when I get back!

Karen,

I am enjoying your report so much!

ana222,

I am going to Spain in 2 1/2 weeks and here's what I've determined about booking the AVE from various posts on this site.

You can book online. The benefit is that you will be able to reserve in advance, possibly avoid a smoking car if that would be an issue, and you can pick up your tickets at a RENFE office in Spain (you can pick up at the airport in Madrid, I believe).

Or you can do it in person. This might give you more flexibility. Depending on how far out from your date of travel from your arrival in Spain, you may have the time to feel pretty secure you'll get your desired reservation date and time - people seem to say you should have 2-3 days lead time. It appears that although not really likely, the time you want to go could sell out, so if you are dead set on a time and date, you should either book online or go to the RENFE office shortly after arrival in Spain.

I am going to purchse my tickets from Madrid to Sevilla online. I think the tourist class rate is 65 euro. I don't know, but it doesn't seem to change, so I think it might be a standard rate.

Hope this helped you a little.

Happy travels,
SRS

ana22 - You don't say when you are going, but since you are doing the AVE toward the end of your trip, I'd say you can wait until you get to Spain. There is a RENFE office in the Madrid airport, so you can buy them when you land.

I bought the Madrid-Corboba at the Antocha station a few days ahead, but the Cordoba-Sevilla part I just bought when I wanted to leave Cordoba.

The cost, as SCS says, should only be 65E tourist class. I did 2 trains, but the cost is the same (47E MAD-Cordoba, then 18E Cordoba-Sevilla).

Karen

Kaudrey, thanks for your report. I'm leaving a month from tomorrow! After reading this I am getting off my butt and am going to start "hiking" up the hills in my neighborhood so I am ready for Segovia and Toledo.

I have one question, about the bus to Toledo. Do you catch it near the Atocha train station? We are taking the bus back into Madrid and then the AVE train to Sevilla, and have already purchased our tickets for the AVE.

I will definitely be trying that camembert with raspberry sauce.

rialtogrl- For the bus to Toledo:

You take the Continental Galiano bus from Estación Sur de Autobuses or "Bus Station of the South" at the metro stop Méndez Alvaro, corner of Calle Retamar. This is Line 6 (gray).

The Antocha RENFE station is on Line 1 (blue). You'd take line 6 for one stop to Pacifico, change to line 1 for 2 stops to Antocha Renfre. This should take about 15-20 minutes, including walking through the stations and waiting for trains.

Hope this helps.
Karen

OK, next day: Day 9, Friday, Sevilla

I sleep in a little after my late night, and don't get out until about 10:30am. First, I walk down to the bullring for a tour. I'd guess it's a mile away. The tour is pretty short but interesting, the stadium is pretty cool to see. They don't go into gory details, which is good because I am an animal-lover-type and I would never actually go see a bullfight. I think it is cruel, but I understand it is part of their culture and I am happy I saw the bullring and its little museum.

Then I was across the Puente Isabel and walk around the Triana district. The churches down there are closed because I hit them at siesta (after 1pm). Sometimes, timing is everything in Spain! I wander back toward "my neighborhood", as I have a date with Sara at 2pm. We have a relaxing lunch at a restaurant in a little plaza in Santa Cruz. We decide to part until dinner. Since she got there after me, we are not quite on the same track as far as what we want to see, which is fine. I decide to go to Casa Pilatos. I get lost, again, I get close, and I can't find it! I swear, based on the map, I must have been almost within FEET of it, and no luck. There was a hotel on the street nearby, and I asked the concierge there, and HE didn't know where it was! I gave up. This was not a short walk from Santa Cruz area, but what can you do? (Note: A few days later, I learn that when I was there it was probably closed anyway, because they were shooting a movie there).

I go to Palacio de Lebrija. This is a great gem! This was a countess' home and it is amazingly beautiful and right amid the stores on Calle Cuna. The tile on the walls and mosaics on the floor are wonderful. The countess traveled the world and had all kinds of antiquities in her home. You can take a short tour of the upstairs rooms, which I also found interesting. I do a little shopping and buy a fan. I'm in Sevilla, I feel a moral imperative to buy a fan...

I stop at a temporary exhibit at the Archivo de India. It was about Spain's efforts to control all aspects of interaction with the new world in the 1500s. At least that's what I could gather from the many plaques of information that were all in Spanish. It was free. They had some early 1500s world maps that were fun to see. As I am walking back to my hotel, I walk past a used book store, and find a paperback to read.

I meet Sara at 9 for dinner. We find a good tapas bar down by the Torro Oro that was in her Lonely Planet book. Then we get ice cream and as we are walking back, we pass the Hotel Alfonso, which is, I think, the best hotel in Sevilla. We want to see it, so we just walk it. It is beautiful, it looks like the palaces you tour, except in perfect repair. We find a seating area, and although we feel a little self-conscious, we sit there to eat our ice cream. We get our own little private piano concert when a man sits down and plays for us. I guess it would be nice to be rich.

In Sara's book, there is mention of a place that sometimes has spontaneous flamenco in Santa Cruz. We go searching for it. We meet up with another friend she met a week ago, Sarah (at least they are spelled differently!), and we find it. It is a fun place and I'd recommend it, but it is a little hard to find. The name of it is not on the door (and I don't remember it), and the door is the one NEXT to the door that has the address above it. The address is #18 Levies. The 18 is over a closed brown door. Next to this is a big red door that is 1/2 way open (to the left of it, if you are facing the brown door). It is not labeled, but we peek in and there are people in there and it is definitely a bar, so we go in. I give this much detail because it was a really fun place and it is worth tracking down. It is all stone inside, walls, floors, the fireplace in the middle. There are benches to sit on, so the three of us get sangria and sit on the benches. Nothing is happening yet. There is also a huge back room that you can go to if you go past the benches to the left. We didn't know this at first, but when we did we checked it out and it was PACKED. We don't see any flamenco, but we do listen to a woman sing with a guitarist. She was very good, and we had a great time. Note, go late. We got there at 11, but the woman didn't start singing until after midnight. We left around 2am.

Although I don't see Sara again, Sarah and I end up meeting up again in Granada and Barcelona (gotta love email). Next: Adventures in driving...

The bar on Levies street that kaudrey is talking about is called La Carboneria, mentioned in past postings by Maribel and others.

Thanks, Olga! I didn't remember, since there is no sign, at least that I saw. Only the address.

Karen

Thanks kaudrey for info..you mentioned if you have 3 days in Barcelona (which we will have) to visit Sitges, Monserrat and the wineries north of Barcelona. We won't have a car in Barcelona and are particularly interested in the wineries. Do you know how to reach them without a car? I assume Sitges and Monserrat are easy to get to? Thanks again and am looking forward to hearing more.

Kaudrey:

Excellent...Thanks for sharing!

Oaktown Traveler

canuck - That was in response to someone who was in Barcelona for a conference and then had an ADDITIONAL 3 days.

If you have only full 3 days in Barcelona, which is basically what I had (future installments coming), I'd spend 2 in Barcelona itself, and 1 going to Monserrat and spending more time in Barcelona.

Or skip Monserrat and go to either Stiges or a winery based on your interests.

You can take a train to Monserrat, Stiges and the vineyards. According to Maribel's files, you can take a train to Sant Sadurni d'Anoia and the Freixenet cava complex is across the street. See www.freixenet.com for tour schedules (you first need to click on España, then English then Winery Visits).

I would only take day trips from Barcelona if you have 3 or more days there. There is so much to see, you could easily spend many more days in Barcelona.

Karen

Wow great ideas, I am going to Seville and Barcelona at the end of March. We are also staying at the Alcantara, its not too rustic is it? Glad to see recommendations of places to eat!

SRS, Karen - thank you guys for the AVE info!

Karen, I meant to say I'll be staying at San Gabriel (I said San Sebestian - LOL) in Ronda as well- I am happy to hear you liked it. I didn't see Ronda on your report?

Can anyone send me the famous Maribel's files? Please! Anything related to Madrid, Seville, Granada, Ronda, Jaen... Thank you!
[email protected]

Thanks for the info. After reading your wonderful memoir of your trip, I am planning to stay for an additional week after the conference. You were mentioning this awesome Maribel's file. I wonder where can I get a copy of that? Would you be able to email me a copy?
I am not very travel savvy. Other than Taxi, is the transportation system pretty easy to navigate in Madrid and Barcelona?
Which is the better mode or cheaper way to travel between Madrid and Barcelona, by plane or by train?
Should I book all hotels, train tickets in advance or they are pretty easy to arrange when I get there?
Sorry for the long list of questions. I feel a little lost when there is so little time for planning. I haven't book my plane ticket to Barcelona yet.
Thanks!!

MN
[email protected]

Karen,

Can I please have a copy of Maribel file as well? [email protected]

Thank you!

Ana and at12am, I have emailed you Maribel's files.

Ana - I stayed at Hotel San Gabriel in Ronda. I LOVED it. The location is great and it is a wonderful revamped mansion. My favorite hotel of all the ones I stayed at.

I spent 2 nights in Ronda. That part of my trip is the next installment, so stay tuned!

Richard - Alcantara is not rustic. The room was basic but fine. I'd stay there again. Location is fabulous and since it's on a pedestrian street, it's nice and quiet.

At12am - Since you haven't booked your plane tickets yet, I have a suggestion. Do an open jaw that takes to Barcelona but leaves from Madrid. That way when you go to Madrid at the end of your trip, you can just leave from there. I did that, but the other way around.

Flights are a great way to go from BCN to MAD. Check out www.iberia.com and www.spanair.com. Look at different days and times because you can snag REALLY cheap flights. I flew from Granada to Barcelona for $35.

I believe there is a pretty fast train that goes between the cities in about 4 hours (?), but I don't know how much it costs.

Trains you can wait until you get there. You can do it in advance once you are in Barcelona if you know the days and times you want to go. Hotels - that's really up to you. I met a lot of people who were winging it, but I didn't want to waste precious vacation time searching for a place to sleep, so I booked mine in advance.

In Madrid and Barcelona, the metros are easy and cheap. There are also buses from the airports into the cities that are easy to use and cheap. I didn't use a taxi in either place.

Hope this helps.

Karen

Day 10: Saturday: Karen gets a rental car.

I leave Sevilla today. I take a cab to the train station, where I have arranged to get my rental car. I used Europcar but I got a cheap rate through a website called www.kasbah.com. It was about $90 for 3 days, and I dropped it off in Granada with no drop off fee. The car is an economy, which is good for those little hill town streets. It is a Fiat Punto, silver, with about 500km on it - brand new! Cool. I get slightly lost leaving Sevilla but am soon on my way.

It takes me about 2 hours to get to my first stop - the "pueblo blanco" of Arcos de la Frontera. I passed through a few small towns and got turned around a little when signs were a little iffy. But, no major problems, as I had a good map. Most of the sites are closed, because I get there during siesta (have we noticed a pattern yet?).

I don't drive into the old part of town. I am fearful of narrow, cobblestone streets, so I follow a "Parking" sign in the more modern part of town. I see a dirt lot that a a few cars parked in it. It has no signs of any kind, but it looks like I can park there, so I do, and hope for the best.

This parking was at the bottom of the town. So, to get up to the cliff where the old town sits, I go through a park across the street and up the steps to the top. 175 steps to the top. Not that I was counting. I wander around the town, get some lunch at a little cafe, and enjoy a leisurely few hours before leaving.

I take the drive through the white towns. This drive takes you through the Sierra Grazalema National Park, which means you go up the mountains, over the mountains, and back down the mountains. It is slow, curvy, narrow, and extremely beautiful. The little car didn't like some of the hilly parts, though! It takes me about 2 hours to get to Ronda, my base for the next 2 nights.

I drove through but didn't stop in Grazalema, because I thought I would go back the next day. But, I spent the whole next day exploring wonderful Ronda, so I didn't make it back. I think the town is worth a stop, it's site on the mountain is amazing.

Anyway, I find Hotel San Gabriel with no problem, and luckily they are off the main road into Old Town and I don't have to drive on any really narrow streets. They told me where to park, a few blocks away, and I did that with no major problem. I left the car there all weekend.

I visit the Iglesia de Santa Maria, since I parked next to it, then I walk down to Ronda's famous bridge - Puente Nueva. This bridge is amazing, as is the gorge it traverses. I must have walked past this bridge a dozen times in 2 days and always had to stop to look at the view.

While taking in the view, I hear an American couple talking about finding a hotel room, so I ask where they are from. We start talking, they find a room, I show them where I parked my car because they needed a space also, then they invited me to join them for dinner. That was nice. Then I wander around the town a little and go back to my room to relax. The driving was tiring - had to concentrate a lot.

Oh, before I went to bed I called home to say Happy Valentine's Day to my boyfriend. It didn't even seem like it to me, since it is not really celebrated in Spain...

Hotel San Gabriel is wonderful. I think Ronda was my favorite town I visited, with Sevilla a close second.

Tomorrow - how to spend a full day in a little town and exhaust yourself in the process...

NOTE TO ANA - I tried sending you the files as noted, but I just got a delivery failure notice. Not sure what happened.

Karen

Thank you very much, Karen.

MN