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-   -   SPAIN FOR 2WKS (https://www.fodors.com/community/europe/spain-for-2wks-1035278/)

Lilly7 Jan 22nd, 2015 08:44 AM

SPAIN FOR 2WKS
 
My husband and I are finally fulfilling our dream vacation.
Running with the bulls is in his bucket list and getting to know my mother land with its culture is mine, so here we go.
7/3-7/5 Madrid, 7/5-7/8 Pamplona (Festival de San Fermin), 7/8-7/11 Barcelona, 7/11-7/12 Malaga, 7/12-7/14 Granada, 7/14-7/15 Ronda, 7/15-7/17 Sevilla, 7/17 back to 7/18 Madrid.
We're taking the train from Madrid, Pamplona & Barcelona then flying down to Malaga and renting a car until the end of our trip.
Your suggestions are greatly appreciated as it's my first trip to Europe. I know it will be a bit rushed but I would like to take in as much as I can. No Kids just the two of us <3

yorkshire Jan 22nd, 2015 08:51 AM

Have you done a trip like this before? Do you generally like this kind of pace? Like I imagine it is for many others, it is too much for me, but only you know how you will enjoy it. Consider that two nights in a place only gives you one full day--pack light because you will be moving a lot.
Do you know the area of Spain from which your family came? That might help focus if you wish to visit fewer places.
Two notes: book accommodation in San Fermin asap.
It will be very very hot in the south.

dwdvagamundo Jan 22nd, 2015 09:07 AM

Much too much. Seven places in two weeks on a first trip to Europe. At that time of year, I'd leave Andalusia out, unless that's where your family came from, in which event I'd leave Barca out.

Finally, you've omitted Toledo, which was one of our favorite places.

nytraveler Jan 22nd, 2015 09:17 AM

Agree that you need to focus this more.

If you look at your itinerary you can see that it makes no sense - you are counting many days 3 times: you can the day as being in city 1, as traveling from city 1 to city 2 and also as being in city2.

What you need to do is list each day, then say where you wil start, what you will o - if sightseeing ORtravel, and where you will sleep that night. You just don;t really have enough time anywhere to see much.

Also - in summer Andalusia is extremely hot - as in 100 is a normal high and it can get as high as 120 degrees. We have been twice in April - and it was summer/swimming weather (highs in the 80s) then.

Agree I would find out what area your family is from and take the opportunity to visit that.

Robert2533 Jan 22nd, 2015 09:19 AM

"I know it will be a bit rushed but I would like to take in as much as I can." Yes, a bit rushed!

Why not simply fly back from Sevilla instead of having to return to Madrid? You can make a connecting flight.

I take it you've already made your arrangements for the fiesta, which starts on a Monday this year. That means the city will be packed over the weekend.

Bedar Jan 22nd, 2015 10:05 AM

While your trip may seem rushed, I do understand your wanting to see as much as possible. Not everyone has the 20 yrs we did to see all. That said, I would do a drive-by of Ronda. You can see everything in a half day. Spend those days in Seville with a day trip to Cordoba. Or, on landing pick up the car and head to Ronda to chill out. Agree that you should try to visit the town from which your family comes. It will be GREAT fun. It used to be very difficult to get accomodations in Pamplona, but a friend was there a couple of years ago and had no difficulty whatsoever. Believe they stayed in a renovated convent. Said it was terrific. I'll ask her. Her husband ran a number of days, but they didn't attend the corridas which, to us, is somewhat odd.

PalenQ Jan 22nd, 2015 10:09 AM

By your train tickets really early to get the limited in number deep discounted tickets - walk up fares can be so so steep - www.renfe.com is tshe official Spanish Railways site - see what's available - I believe you can book up to 3 months (may 2) early or longer. For lots of great info on Spanish trains check these superb IMO sites: www.seat61.com - great info on discounted tickets and other sites to get the discounts that may be easier to use than fickle renfe.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.

You could also take an overnight train between Barcelona and the Malaga area - save travel time even over flying and the cost of a night in a hotel.

Lilly7 Jan 22nd, 2015 10:24 AM

no we haven't been to Spain before. Seville/Andalusia seems to be where my roots are from. I'd love to go where the heart of Flamenco is not so much the generic places. I understand Madrid/Barcelona are big cities but we chose to fly down to the southern part and rent a car because we also want to see the countryside. We already have Pamplona bought (hotel & balconies) currently working on all its final details. We understand it has to be done way ahead of time including some dinner reservations as restaurants get packed as well.
All hotels are pretty much booked with the exception of Barcelona & Madrid. Airfare already purchased as well. When I repeated the days I was implying checkout from one hotel to the next hotel that same day. We are booking hotels with swimming pools to ease that heat although I'm Caribbean so I can handle heat (live in Florida now).

Bedar Jan 22nd, 2015 10:52 AM

The heat is totally manageable, no matter what others say here. Can't imagine what they might expect - the Spanish Tourist Office always has a sun on its posters and web pages. And then there are others who expect winter in Andalucia to be swimming weather when, in fact, it can be quite cold. Oh well.

yorkshire Jan 22nd, 2015 11:02 AM

I think some people may be unaware the a/c is not present everywhere and would like to be prepared.

Lilly7 Jan 22nd, 2015 11:42 AM

I understand. My husbands mainly wants to run with the Bulls and I want to hang out more so with the locals in Andalucia. Were not big with museums. In our itinerary we have of course La Sagrada Familia Catedral , Park Guell, Barri Gotic, El Alhambra, the Arab baths, the Alcazar, Giralda...because is just the two of us and "we would like to see but is not set in stone to see" I think we may play it by ear and see where it takes us... I so appreciate everyone's suggestions.

Bedar Jan 22nd, 2015 11:48 AM

Well, of course it's not present everywhere, but we all managed without it in "olden days.". we've all become soft (not talking about people who are sick). BTW, new laws have come into effect that those who rent out apts and houses will have to provide A/C, heating, and free wi-fi; inspections and licensing will be carried out,and taxes will have to be paid on earnings (which are now often hidden from the govt).

Ozarksbill Jan 22nd, 2015 11:49 AM

Enjoy seeing Andalucia...we were there last October and I did a Fodors report on Spain. Yes, the usual caution to not rush. It is a long way from Barcelona and then there's some time in Madrid. For me the Royal Palace and Prado Museum are musts. Yes Ronda in half a day but surely more time in Granada, Sevilla, Cordoba, Malaga (Roman ruins)...and of course a flamenco show somewhere. You'll see Fodor discussions on flamenco including one on duende.

Bedar Jan 22nd, 2015 11:53 AM

Lilly, just remember to get tickets in advance for the Alhambra and the Sagrada Familia. Can't play it by ear at either place.

Lilly7 Jan 22nd, 2015 12:13 PM

I'll look into those to buy in advance. Any other places? Thanks much.

Lilly7 Jan 22nd, 2015 12:18 PM

Have any of you guys seen Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown for Spain? I loved where he went to see the Flamenco in that cave. Would love to go there. Andalucia is definitely my priority. The only reason we're staying in Rhonda is because the hotel is absolutely gorgeous (Hotel Montelirio) and we reserved a suite. Romance is key in this trip so maybe this could be a stay to recharge :) the batteries. I have to find time for those Roman Ruins too :)

Ozarksbill Jan 22nd, 2015 12:43 PM

Oh, so this is a romantic trip to recharge batteries? That might be aided by relaxing with tapas and wine. Seems like Spaniards wake up late having a churros con chocolate snack and later take a siesta and then sit around late in the evening at some outdoor tapa bar. But don't pass up those Moorish cathedrals and fortresses.

Ozarksbill Jan 22nd, 2015 12:45 PM

...and as you know the flamenco dancing is very sensuous.

Bedar Jan 22nd, 2015 01:05 PM

Haven't seen the Bourdain one, but there is one called "On the Road Again" with Mario Batali, Gwenyth Paltrow, and Mark Bittman from the NYT which you might enjoy - cooking and touring all over Spain. From Netflix. Flamenco in caves is usually very touristy. According to Kimhe, the flamenco maven here, La Casa de la Memoria in Seville is the very best place to see it.

Lilly7 Jan 22nd, 2015 01:37 PM

Well the whole trip is not to recharge batteries but ill take any chance I have in between all the running around and rushing for some relaxing time lol. Yes we will also have to work on the 6hr difference to catch up with all those party Spaniards...Tapas, Wine & a little Dancing is definitely a must of course. Too bad we won't make it to Rioja��. Seeing all the Gothic architecture is one of my to dos. After a few glasses of vino I won't be surprised If I end up doing some Flamenco myself lol

Robert2533 Jan 22nd, 2015 07:33 PM

After being in Pamplona for the opening days of the fiesta, you will need your time in Barcelona to relax and recuperate, if you keep up with the usual pace of the fiesta, the chupinazo, etc. You may get 4 to 5 hours of rest on the 6th and 7th. Good luck!

kimhe Jan 23rd, 2015 02:12 AM

Hope you have a hotel in Pamplona. If not, book as soon as possible, skyrocketing prices and you might be quite late already to find hotels under 300€/night.

The Caves in Granada can be a fine intro to flamenco, even though the events are quite touristy. In Granada, I rather recommend the Thursday and Saturday night perfromances at Peña La Plateria, the oldets existing flamenco club in Spain:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
http://www.laplateria.org.es/#_=_

In Sevilla there are only great artists performing every night in intimate Casa de la Memoria and La Casa del Flamenco. These places are also popular with tourists, but still the real deal and a great intro to the beauty and power of flamenco.
Casa de la Memoria: http://www.casadelamemoria.es/
La Casa del Flamenco: http://www.lacasadelflamencosevilla.com/

But the best tablaos (flamenco restaurants) in Spain are in Madrid. The art comes from the South, but everyone has to conquer Madrid to get to the top. Casa Patas and Cardamomo stand out in recent years.
http://www.casapatas.com/
http://cardamomo.es/

Some examples from Casa Patas the past couple of years:

Fuensanta La Moneta, voted best female flamenco dancer 2009 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbO_lw2xWtU

Pastora Galván, voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SY6Vy9tKW3U

Olga Pericet, voted best female flamenco dancer 2011 by Spanish critics: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55waEsaBzjM

Fantastic and cutting edge Israel Galván, he has revolutionized male flamenco dance during the past decade: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VL9Wav9v7Jc

Estrella Morente, now the world's most famous cantaora (female flamenco singer): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sejSYMSQDZo

AND Paloma Fantova now often dances at Cardamomo. She brought the house down at prestigious Sadler's Wells in London little over a year ago, and her career is taking off right now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ck7hMzNH3b8

And it can be a HUGE experience to se flamenco in theaters, the greatest artists and a primarily local and knowledgeable crowd. Have had many unforgettable flamenco nights in theaters all around Andalucia as well as in Madrid and Barcelona.

The major events are updated here:
http://www.deflamenco.com/seccion-conciertos.html

And often the best flamenco artists perform in spectacular outdoor stages during the annual Veranos de la Villa/Summer in the city festival in Madrid from late June through August:
http://www.spain.info/en/que-quieres..._la_villa.html

Lilly7 Jan 23rd, 2015 05:39 AM

Wow thank you so much Kimhe. I will definitely research as the date gets closer to get tickets. Seeing the Flamenco as a theater show would be amazing. I would also love to go see any Spanish artist like Gypsy Kings, Rosario, David Bisbal or Alejandro Sans but I will look into it.
Robert2533 you are so right, we are looking to all the chupinazo events so I will need all the energy I can get. I will crash at some point but it will be one of this YOLO moments ... :) I just need to remember to drink LOTS of water to stay hydrated between all the wine & heat.

Ozarksbill Jan 23rd, 2015 05:50 AM

Glad to see kimhe weighed in with suggestions...I marvel at such knowledge of flamenco, seeking out performances and also outstanding artists. Also a treat to have some videos.

Robert2533 Jan 23rd, 2015 06:29 AM

If you are planning on being in the crowd, and not on a balcony, for the chupinazo, wear something you don't mind tossing away (www.pinterest.com/pin/297096906641584578/)

The Gypsy Kings, who opened the fiesta a few years ago, are not Spanish, but French, from Provence. During 2015 they are scheduled to be in Austraila and New Zeland. They toured the US last year and played in Seattle at the end of August.

kimhe Jan 23rd, 2015 06:45 AM

<Seeing the Flamenco as a theater show would be amazing>

And here are some top names to look out for who tour top theaters both in Spain and internationally all the time (you know I think this is just fun, Ozarksbill ;-))

Dance:
Rocio Molina: http://www.rociomolina.net/
Eva Yerbabuena: http://www.evayerbabuena.com/en/
Maria Pages: http://www.mariapages.com/en_index.php
Pastora Galvan: http://www.pastoragalvan.com/
Farruquito: http://www.farruquito.eu/en/
Joaquin Grilo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOjtXiPl8Rk
Israel Galvan: https://www.facebook.com/IsraelGlv
Sara Baras: http://www.sarabaras.com/idioma.html


Song:
Miguel Poveda: http://www.miguelpoveda.com/
La Tremendita: http://www.rosariolatremendita.es/en/
Estrella Morente: http://www.estrella-morente.es/
Marina Heredia: http://www.marinaheredia.com/
Jose Merce: http://josemerce.es/home/
Rocio Marquez: http://www.rociomarquez.com/

Guitar:
Vicente Amigo: http://www.vicenteamigo.com/en/
Dani de Moron: https://www.facebook.com/danidemoron

Piano:
Dorantes: http://www.dorantes.es/

Group:
Las Migas: http://www.lasmigas.com/

I could have, and often have, travelled to Spain with the sole purpose of seeing any of these artists. And there are of course a lot of other brilliant flamencos out there.

Lilly7 Jan 23rd, 2015 07:18 AM

Woaah so awesome. So I'm debating to cancel the overnight stay in Ronda and just pass by. If so, I can add one more day to either Sevilla or Granada. Which one is better?

Lilly7 Jan 23rd, 2015 07:33 AM

Robert, we have balconies already purchased for both mornings. We will both be wearing the traditional white & red. I'm not so much concerned about getting drenched in wine. It would actually be awesome lol (we want to enjoy as much as possible...) Hotel has also been booked. The only thing missing for now is the Cathedral Welcome Tapas Tour and The Hemingway breakfast. We booked through Pamplonasbalconies.com.

Bedar Jan 23rd, 2015 07:34 AM

You have 2 nights alloted to Granada which is enough. A couple of extra nights in Seville would be great with a day trp to Cordoba.

Robert2533 Jan 23rd, 2015 08:04 AM

From what I see included in the 3-start opening ceremonies package, you could have gotten a nice 4-star in a slightly better location for about the same price, but the hotel included in the package isn't bad and is within easy walking distance of the Plaza del Castillo.

Overall, you should enjoy the fiesta. There's nothing like it.

kimhe Jan 23rd, 2015 09:04 AM

Pamplona during Sanfermines is fantastic, so much friendly people and good spirited atmosphere that it's almost too much. Enjoy!

Have been here many times, but I ran just once, and on day three or four and in mid-week. Take care and be extremely cautious if you are running the first days with hordes of drunk and non-Spanish first-timers. People stumbling and falling on top of eachother in front of the bulls are the real danger, and it happens every now and then, especially the first two days. Then it can get really bad. The first - and often numerous - minutes after the runnings, the air is filled with ambulance sirenes, and even though there seldom are any deaths, quite a few people get serious injuries that sometimes follow them for life.

As Bedar suggests, I would suggest to add an extra day in Sevilla, the undisputed queen of the cities in Andalucia.

... and I couldn't help it; my absolute top three flamenco list with small video intros:

Rocio Molina: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97w_mvV7C9U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE3R0o1f9R4
Miguel Poveda: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UK1a-BGxRIs
Dorantes: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOjtXiPl8Rk

Bedar Jan 23rd, 2015 10:35 AM

Here's an interesting fact from Wikipedia - neither the old nor the young Hemingway ever ran !!! Bloody coward !! But do be careful.

Lilly7 Jan 23rd, 2015 01:18 PM

Sevilla it is. I'm not running, my husband is. Crazy Marine Recon lol.
I'll be in the balconies having vino and attempting to record him. All hotels we got on our own. Not part of any packages. I believe we'll be at AC Ciudad de Pamplona by Marriott so I hope that's pretty safe.
You all are amazing and love referring to your suggestions.
I'm currently doing my homework and watching "On the road again" as Bedar suggested and so Im considering a stop it in Toledo on the way back to Madrid before we leave.. And that was just Episode 1...

kimhe Jan 23rd, 2015 01:57 PM

Los Sanfermines is much about singing. And my best memories from running with the bulls are the tense "convivencia" spirit in the bars along the route in the minutes leading up to the run - when everybody drinks chocolate and feed eachother with churros or whatever - and then go out in the street with their rolled newspapers to sing the blessing "A San Fermin pedimos..." shortly before the bulls are launched just down the road: http://runningofthebulls.travel/la-p...-the-festival/

progol Jan 23rd, 2015 02:46 PM

Kimhe,
You are a star here -- such wonderful links! Thanks for all the information you share here. It is so appreciated!

joannyc Jan 23rd, 2015 03:28 PM

Toledo is really worth an overnight, at least. So much nicer after the day trippers leave. I spent 3 or 4 nights there and still didn't get to everything I wanted!

Robert2533 Jan 23rd, 2015 05:51 PM

The AC Cuidad has been our home for more then 10 years. So yes, you'll be fine. It's just that the people you booked with don't have any contacts at the hotel, so you will be on yor own.

kimhe Jan 24th, 2015 08:08 AM

Trailer to a nice flamenco documentary, "Flamenco from the roots". Far fom the polka dot dresses and flowers in the hair ;-) : https://vimeo.com/ondemand/15828/46973978

And wonderful bailaora Concha Jareño giving a master class at the Amor de Dios dance studio in Madrid, part of the same movie: http://vimeo.com/47237278

Ozarksbill Jan 24th, 2015 02:54 PM

Once again in those last two vimeos from kimhe we see in the first one the passion and in the second one the dancers following the teacher so exactly through intricate lively motions.

Lilly7 Apr 28th, 2015 11:24 AM

So as my trip is approaching I was curious to ask if any of you have any personal contacts that could share with me into getting a balcony for the Chupinazo? They are very expensive for just 2hrs... I only need for the Chupinazo for 2. Thx.


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