Spain Experts Please Help with Catalonia
 

I'd really appreciate some advise for our 25th Anniversary Celebration trip in April. I love the Paradors and want to take advantage of the 5 day card and have come up with the following itinerary:

APPRIL 15—19—5 DAY PARADOR CARD FOR CATALONIA
APRIL 15 & 16 BEGUR
Side trips Cadaques
Casa Dali
L’Hostal Jazz Club ?
Girona
Figueres
Theatro Dali
Tossa de Mar
Empuries
APRIL 17 VIC
Side trip to Rupid
APRIL 18 & 19—CARDONA
Side trips to Montserrat
Solsona (?)

QUESTIONS:
1) Could this reasonably be done with public transporation or do you think a car is necessary? (The big problem here is DH's driving, but I guess I could take a valium, though I'd rather not)
2) I realize I might be trying to do too much in the first part and know there may not be time to do all, but know I don't want to miss Casa Dali and Theatro Dali. Of the other places, what order would you put them in?
3) Has anyone been to L'Hostal? I just read about it in Frommers and it sounds perfect for DH (he's a jazz musician).
4) Has anyone been to Rupit?
5) Has anyone been to Solsona? How was it?
6) Am I leaving out someplace in this area you'd suggest?
7) Any restaurant recommendations?

Thanks so much for any advise you can give me.

It looks like you will have to consider a rental car. Public transportation just will not do when staying at Paradors, especially Paradors de Aiguablava and Cardona.

You will definitely need a car.

I strongly recommend that you buy the book The Rough Guide to Costa Brava, which you can easily order through Amazon. It has excellent descriptions of the small towns throughout Cataluyna.

You are trying to do way too much, and the Rough Guide will help you pare it down to what you want to really see.

The drive into Cadaques is very mountainous and winding. You will easily use up more than half a day making a trip there. Girona will also consume more than a half day of your time.

I very much wanted to stay in the parador at Vic, but it was booked. It's looks beautiful. The Episcopal museum in Vic, plus the Playa Major and the town's many beautiful buildings, are very much worth seeing.

You will surely need a car for this and if DH is a terror, I suggest you learn to drive stick and help out. Yes, the driver needs to know stick.

Sounds like you are doing a great trip. The Dalí museum is great and of all the Dalí attractions, by far the best (though the house in Cadaqués is wonderful), so definitely set aside a full morning for that. The lines get long, but I went back in 2001 and there was no pre-booking available. Perhaps they have that now.

Are you completely leaving out Barcelona? Does this mean no discussion about the Picasso museums of the world? I hope not!

Claire

It is too much for just 5 days.

You could do Figueres and Empuries or Figueras in Cadaquès in one day, but certainly not visit the 3 places.

Restaurants :
La Cupula - Doctor Pagès 1 - Villa Sacra
(on the main road from Figueres to Roses, on the right)

Les Quadres - c/Baix - El Far d'Emporda
(a few km from Figueras, in a renovated old farm)

Girona to Cardona will take at least 2 hours.

Hi artlover,
I agree with the others; a car is absolutely necessary. And yes, your list is unfortunately too long for just 5 days in the Catalunya countryside. :'(

We have a 3 week trip coming up in Dec.-Jan. to Pamplona and Catalunya with two parador 5 night cards for part of the Catalunya portion. We're hitting the same ones that you are-too bad we'll miss each other!

The Cardona, Aiguablava and Vic paradors are remote, and the Vic Parador is 15 km. from Vic, with a gorgeous setting on the lake.
Just take that valium! And as laclaire wisely suggests, learn to drive stick to help out yourself!

With only 2 nights in Aiguablava (Begur),
you just won't be able to fit everything in on your list,.
We alloted five days to do it all last time. So put the Teatre-Museu Dalí in Figueres and the Casa in Port Lligat (Cadaqués) at the top if you absolutely can't miss Port Lligat. But that makes for a very long day, and as ness has said, the drive to Cadaqués is a pain due to the 800+ curves on the road from Roses. But in April, it won't be bumper to bumper as it is in July-Aug. If you must, prepare DH and take another valium!

Art lovers should do at least two spots on the Dalí triangle, (although the best, as in most famous, of Dalí isn't found in Figueres, but instead at the Reina Sofía and St. Petersburg, Fla, but you know that already)
:)

I would put the fascinating Greco-Roman ruins of Empúries third.
But....
You could see Empúries if you were willing to switch the Casa Dalí in Port Lligat-Cadaqués for Gala's home at Púbol, the 3rd point on the Dalí triangle, which is much closer to Aiguablava.

With only two days, you won't be able to fit in the spectacular drive from Sant Feliú to Tossa. Save it for next time.

From Vic, you must, must, must go to Rupit. I've been twice, and we're heading there again. I loved it so much I even bought the video. Approaching it from the south, from Vic, isn't that difficult a drive. You can also do the Romanesque Monestir of Santa María in Ripoll on the same day if you get an early start. Ripoll is ugly, ugly but the Monestir is a delight.

I think this is important:
I would definitely take away the second night in Cardona and put it at Vic, as that area is just richer in "must see" treasures:
Rupit
neighboring Els Hostalets d'en Bas, which has a less dramatic perch but is one of Catalunya's most picturesque towns as well
Vic itself
the truly, truly lush Garrotxa extinct volcanic park and delightful medieval Besalú and Santa Pau within it
the two Romanesque monestirs, Santa María and Sant Joan de les Abadesses near Ripoll.
If you'll be in Vic on Sat. there's a lively market in the square.

I always think of Cardona as a one night stand before Barcelona.
From Cardona, yes, do the side trip to Montserrat. I wouldn't bother with Solsona.

I'll be back later with restaurant suggestions.
Hope this helps!

Thanks everyone so much for your helpful responses. Even before I posted this, I has a feeling that we needed a car.

Claire, DH and I both drive stick, but I don't like driving period and he drives all cars as if they were Ferraris :D! After last trip, I threatened to rent at least a BMW for the next, but budget really doesn't allow it.

Claire, We are NOT leaving out Barcelona--how could we ever, we're just doing this sidetrip to new and unexplored territory as well. I'm not sure how low we'll be in Barcelona as we're going to Paris first and haven't finalized the itinerary there. Only definite place at this point is April 21-28 in Mallorca where we'll have a timeshare (and yes, will have to rent a car there as well).

nessundorma,
Yes, I had a feeling I was trying to do too much in the Cadaques part, and we don't like to just rush like mad through places, so I will get the guide.

Pvoyoguese,
Thank you for the restaurant recommendations.

Maribel,
As always, you're an angel! So sorry our paths aren't going to cross this time, but hope someday they will. Your recommendations have me reconsidering much of these plans. I have to admit, I'm drawn to the Parador in Cardona because of the castle setting. I still have to pinch myself when I think of how incredible the Parador in Leon was. Yet Leon itself certainly didn't have the appeal to me that Segovia and Salamanca and Avila had. So, yes, I think one night there.

To be quite honest, Dali isn't one of my favorite artists, but when DD was in Spain, she told me that we absolutely MUST see Theatro Dali and Casa Dali and brought back a book to prove her point. Obviously, I was convinced. She didn't get to Gala's home, and from the book it didn't seem as exciting as the other two, but now I'm reconsidering this.

Now Chagall is one of my favorites, so I'm drawn to Tossa because of this--or will I be disappointed with what is there as far as Chagall's work?

Now I'm thinking that maybe because there's so much I want to see by Begur, we should stay there 3 nights, Vic one, and Cardoma one? I might even extend this part to a week depending on what happens with our request for a timeshare in France (this is what's hanging me up on this).

Thanks again everyone for your help!

artlover,
Yes, yes, yes!!!!!!!!!!!! Extend this to a week!
That would make me (and you and the DH) so happy!:)

There is so much incredibly beautiful scenery to see, medieval villages to explore (Peretallada is another absolutely authentic gem, Pals is more picture-perfect, for the wealthy, but beautfiul nonetheless), Romanesque architecture to die for.
Remember that the Empordá is Catlunya's version of Tuscany.
About Chagall and Tossa. Nope. Tossa has an undeniably pretty walled ancient quarter overlooking the expanisve, flat beach, but it's a large, very built up, mass market tourism beach resort now. You go to Tossa for a family beach holiday, not for the art.

Dining:

Rupit:
the immaculate Hostal Estrella Inexpensive.

Around Aiguablava:
the very fine Hostal Sa Tuna in the tiny cove of Sa Tuna. They make a fantastic arros negre. Moderate.
www.hostalsatuna.com

The terrace, if open, of the charming Sa Racassa in Aiguafreda. Inexpensive.
www.hostalsarascassa.com

Besalú:
Els Fogons de Can Llaudes

Cadaqués:
Casa Anita. Moderate

Begur:
The Aiguaclara hotel
www.aiguaclara.com

Llafranc:
Any of the beach hotel restaurants will provide nice dining, the Llevant, Llafranch, Casamar-whatever menu appeals most.
Charming fishing village/resort town close to Aiguablava, that shouldn't be missed, along with its neighbor, Calella de Palafrugell.

Figueres:
The Hotel Empordá, where new Catalán cuisine was born. On the highway coming in to Figueres. Quite renowned.
www.hotelemporda.com
Or if you want something in town, walkable from the museum, the equally noted Hotel Duran.
www.hotelduran.com

The following two for splurges:

For its El Bullí connection, beautiful décor filled with antiques, great wine list and well priced tasting menus, Mas Pau on the road to Olot, just west of Figueres in Avinyonet de Puigventós. Much more affordable than El Bulli!! Gourmet

Vic:
Can Jubany in Calldetenes, 4 km from Vic on the Sant Hilari highway. This is the one absolutely not to be missed on our list.
Closed Sun./Mon. Gourmet
www.canjubany.com

Artlover,

I consider myself an artlover as well, and despite spending about 9 days in Catalonia and the Costa Brava (and 3 of them in Cadaques), I did not go to any of the Dali attractions. Apart from his Jerusalem Bible, I am not much interested in his work. I feel I nonetheless had a very rich experience in that part of Spain and look forward to returning. (When I return, I doubt I will go to see any of the Dali attractions.)

I'll reinforce Maribel's point that the drive to Rupit is not difficult. It pases through rolling cow pastures. In general, however, I will say that much of the driving in that area is a stark choice between truck-crowded, multi-lane highways and very, very curvy, climbing roads. Both can create fatigue, so I recommend again that you not be overly ambitious in planning "must-sees" and instead enjoy the paradors and a few carefully selected destinations in the Catalonian spring.

thanks ness,
I recall past roads and the choices of steep narrow ones (minus guardrails:-<) or wider ones with heavy truck traffic...sanest road reccos would be appreciated (I purchased a Micheline 574 but don't know if all the smaller ones are listed).

Claire,
Excuse my typo--I meant "long", not "low"--I'm always high in Barcelona :D--how could one not be?

Oh yes, and Maribel, I'll be looking forward to your trip report, especially on the restaurants in the Paradors. I remember the one in Leon was quite good, but have heard they can vary.

I actually liked the big main toll road that slices right through southern Catalonia (from Barcelona into France). When you need to make some time, this is the way to go.

But obviously you will also want to see some pretty scenery. I didn't take the famed Tossa del Mar drive, which has some ungodly number of turns, but I did enjoy the road to Rupit and other mountain roads in the green foothills.

As mentioned earlier, if you choose to go to Cadaques, there is only one choice of road. Having just descended from the high Pyrenees and from driving goat tracks in France, I didn't find it scary at all, just rather long and tiring.

A really nice place that no one ever seems to mention is the medievil village of Peratallada. Stone for the streets & houses was hewn from the moat that surrounds this small village just down the road from La Bisbal d'Empordà which is lined with pottery shops.

Ian

artlover,
A second to Peretallada (which I mentioned above). Strass is headed there and will give us a report, I'm sure, upon return, and we'll visit again, as it's the real deal!! Monells is another medieval village worth adding to the mix with more time. And I can recommend a meal in Peretallada at the Can Bonay. It's a great place to try regional specialties like the goose with turnips (oca amb naps) or with pears (oca amb peras).

The roads in the Baix (lower) Empordá which is relatively flat like Tuscany with bastide towns like Begur are easy driving actually. The only problem is during the summer when it's bumper to bumper on the road through La Bisbal, the pottery town, to the coast and on the road from the autoroute that takes you east to Tossa. You're wise in choosing April (wish we could have), as you'll avoid that, except maybe for the wkd. when the catalán elite head to their wkd homes from Bcn.

I would have mentioned Peratallada except it seems artlover's dance card is already quite packed.

I reitierate my recommendation of purchasing a copy of the Rough Guide to the Costa Brava (which includes descriptions of Rupit, Peratallada, Empuries, etc, etc, etc, etc. Although I didn't have much use for its restaurant recommendations, I discovered by reading it places I very much wanted to go while I crossed others off my list. It's a comprehensive, economically packaged overview.

yes, ness, artlover's dance card is now quite filled, but as she says, she may add more days. The last thing I would advise is to add more villages to those two days in the Begur area, but I think her time there just might expand...:)

artlover,
I do highly suggest that you add more nights to your Costa Brava portion to enjoy the delights of the Baix Empordá. And in addition to the excellent Rough Guide Directions: Costa Brava, the Thomas Cook Driving Around (newly revised) is excellent, as it provides very doable driving tours that are well paced and easy to follow. It organizes your touring for you, and all the sites mentioned above are described and rated in order of importance or beauty or whatever.

I just purchased George Semler's Visible Cities Barcelona, hot off the press. George is a 25+ yr. Barcelona resident and author of Fodor's Barcelona and Fodor's Barcelona to Bilbao guides (he's a former resident of the Basque Country as well and a regular contributor to Spain Gourmetour and Saveur magazine). I'm putting in a plug here for him now, as he helped us immensely. We followed his Dream Loop Around the Pyrenees on our last Catalunya adventure. Check it out and see if you like it. He also wrote Barcelona Walks, which is out of print but may still be available on his web page.
www.georgesemler.com

regarding restaurants: We just got back from 3 weeks in Catalonia and southern France and I would highly recommend Drap Restaurant in Girona. They start serving between 8:30 and 9:00 (as most restaurants do). It is priced very reasonable and the food is very good.

WOW, you Fodorites are AMAZING! It's probably going to take me a few days to digest all this information, but from what you're telling me it seems that it would make much more sense to go to Gala's castle in Pubol instead of Casa Dali unless we can add on another day, in which case it seems it would make sense to stay in Cadaques if we want to go to the jazz club--I sure don't want DH to be negotiating the road back to the Parador late at night (Valium or not!)

And Peratallada and Pals are very close to the Parador--and they're not even in most guidebooks (at least the ones I've been using so far), which for me is a real plus!!!

WOW, thanks so much again! :D

arttover,
I think it would be better to add an extra day at the Aiguablava Parador rather than put a night in Cadqués unless it's really, really important for hubby to go to the jazz club. I see that some critics have called it the second best jazz club in Europe though. I've never been. Cadaqués is quite isolated and there won't be much going on up there in April. Of course, it will be quiet in the Begur area off season, but the area offers more sightseeing delights within an easy reach. With another night (or 2..) in the Begur area (where driving is quite easy), you could see much more on your list. Pals and Peretallada, you're right, are very easily accessible from Aiguablava.

The views from the Aiguablava Parador are spectacular, truly unforgettable. I can't compare them with sea views from Playa Sol or other Cadaqués hotels because I've never had the desire to spend the night up there. I've made the trek 3 times now. I just think the comfort level of the Parador room will be higher. Just something to keep in mind. :)
Have fun planning!

Thanks, Maribel, I'm having a great time planning, which as you know, is part of the fun. Especially with the great people like you on Fodors helping with the plans.

So, if I can only do 5 nights, do you think we should do 2 in Begur and 2 in Vic and 1 in Cardona or 3 in Begur and 1 in Vic and 1 in Cardona?

Thanks again for the great imput!

Hmmm,
Solely because of DH and the driving, I would say 3 at Aiguablava (you'll LOVE the view), 1 in Vic (remembering that's is a full 15 km. from the city up to the Parador and 1 in Cardona.

I'm not fond of two one night stands in a row, but I think it makes more sense for the areas you want to visit and your DH's driving!!.

The Aiguablava Parador's Baix Empordá location with proximity to Pals, Peratallada, Empuries, Pubol and the 3 charming fishing villages in a row of Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu will give you more sightseeing opportunities and less stressful driving overall.
You'll be going through Girona to reach the Begur area.

In principle I don't think you are trying to do too much if you stayed at different places -- the parador in Begur is holding you back I think and forcing lots of daytrips (ie back tracking which I don't enjoy).

I am doing a similar trip next month; I haven't posted my itinerary yet but I will now.

We are also coming from Paris by the night train (trenhotel private cabin for 2 404€ R/T). How are you arriving in Catalonia?

Maribel,

Thanks again. I don't like a lot of one-night stands (LOL) either, but we'll be in one place an entire week after this (Mallorca, which I still need to research and will undoubtedly have questions to post) and possibly a week in one place outside of Paris.

Moxie,
I am aware that the Paradors are often on the outskirts of town, but I've had such great experiences with them on our last trip, that I really want to stay there again (plus I'm almost out of the great fragrance they comp with the ammenities). We'll be getting to Cardona by car. I'll be looking forward to your trip report!

Hi artlover,
I know the feeling of wanting to hit as many Paradors as possible, particularly with the 5 night card that makes them so incredibly affordable! The regular rates at Aiguablava are 130-140, which makes the 5 night card a tremendous value!

I thought you had a week at a timeshare afterwards, which will give you time to recover. I

f you do just a night in Vic, I would recommend you hit the Museo Episcopal first when it opens at 10, then drive up to Rupit and do lunch up there.
www.museuepiscopalvic.com

With only one night you won't have time for exploration of the Garrotxa, but you'll certainly need a reason to come back, right? I could spend a lifet ime exploring Catalunya! BTW, Vic's market days are Tues. and Sat. in the Placa Major.

It can be charming to hang out on balconies waterside at the Playa del Sol in Cadaques, but I would not call it spectacular. If I wanted one village/beach experience along the Costa Brava, I would choose Calella da Palafrugell.

Dear Artlover,

Wanted to reinforce your idea of spending one night at Parador Vic if you only have a 5 night window. We just returned from a stay there three weeks ago.

Parador Vic-Sau is a lovely place,Just completed an interior redecoration, the setting is spectacular and you will love the view from the balcony. It is very quiet and serene. It is definately worth staying there just to experience the view.

That said, as already stated, it's pretty remote for using as a base. We originally booked three days and cut it down to two, having our fill of the view and wanting to move on. I think you could be satisfied with one night and not be disappointed.

The dinner at the parador was acceptable, but not much more than that. If you don't want to drive back and forth for dinner, it's fine to eat there, but not with overly high expectations.

I second Maribel's suggestion to visit the Episcopal museum in Vic. The quality and quantity of regional Catalonian religious art is truly superlative. A slide show with English subtitles gives an excellent overview and helped us understand the unique nature of the collection.

If a quick lunch in Vic is desired, the restaurant El Jardinet was excellent - wonderful meal of gazpacho and chicken roasted in red wine, spices and pears with house wine for 11 euro. Also be sure to see the Roman temple, just around the corner from the tourist information office.

I also second Nessundorma's comment about Cadaques. If you have a strong reason to visit, go for it. But if you're on the fence, it's a long drive and I don't think you would miss too much if you skipped it. We enjoyed our day there, but other locations in Costa Brava could satisfy equally if it helps cut down on lengthy driving.

Now that I've read all the other suggestions, I am compiling a list for our return visit! (BTW, this was our 25th Anniv trip as well - Congratulations!)

Yes, Maribel I really do feel like I'm in a candy store (chocolate of course) when I go on the Parador website, which I just did to book this trip, and it was DOWN! Hopefully it will be up tomorrow.

Thanks, Susan Eva for the good wishes--congratulations to you two too (and you don't even complain about your DHs driving :D!) and for the restaurant suggestions as well. Good thing to be doing, compiling a list for your return visits, that's what I usually do when I get home (O.K., I'll admit it--on the plane on the way home! :D)

artlove,
You may have done this already on a previous trip, but in case you haven't....

I highly recommend becoming a member of the Parador's Frequent Guest Program, the Amigos. It's free, and members receive a complimentary drink (wine, beer, soft drink) upon arrival, children under 14 receive a little gift, and garage parking is free to Amigos. Plus one receives a quarterly four page bulletin filled with specials only available to Amigos, sometimes 2 for 1 stays, 25%-35% discounts, brk. thrown in with the room rate or a special tour, etc.

You can't sign up for Amigos on line. You simply fill out a form at your first Parador, and you'll receive a number to use for earning poiint then and for subsequent stays until you receive your card in the mail.

We have just now accumulated enough points for a free stay (redeeming them in Olite), and if you don't use your points you eventually lose them, but for us the redemption of points is secondary. We just enjoy the discounts, the free welcome drink and the underground parking.
The free garage parking comes in very handy on wkds. when there are events such as weddings at the Paradors or corporate seminars mid-week, and the small number of outside parking spots at particular Paradors gets filled up quickly. Some Paradors have ample outside parking; some don't (such as Avila, Trujillo, Mérida, where we really needed the garage space). Also when we arrived at the Limpias Parador quite late on a July Sat., and the lot at the entrance was filled, the overflow had to park far below, a steep walk, down by the tennis courts and pool. Not all Paradors have an underground garage, but it's nice to be able to have a free garage space when available.

I'm eagerly awaiting my Dec.-Jan.-Feb. bulletin so that I can check for specials for our winter trip!

SusanEva,
We'll have a few nights in Vic, so thank's very much for the recommendation of El Jardinet. We'll be sure to have lunch there.

artlover,
Speaking of Vic-Sauc, the Parador summer magazine did a spread on it. You can read it and see pics of the gorgeous views at www.parador.es At the very top click on Parador magazines, then choose n #17, summer, then the article "Behind the doors".
I love their magazines, and it's nice to be able to read them on line.

Thanks again everyone for your help. I just made the reservation and signed up for Amigos online. I'll be really impressed if they actually send me a card through the mail! Will let you know if they do!

Hurray, artlover,
I didn't realize one could sign up on line.

In 2007 we'll have three more brand new Paradors to choose from for our next trips, when La Granja (Segovia), Alcalá de Henares and Lorca (Murcia) Paradors open their doors, the first, sometime in the spring and the last two at the end of the year (if not plagued by construction delays).

Maribel,
We stayed at a Parador in Segovia, very modern and with Frank Llyod Wright type architecture--I loved it! Are they going to have another one in the same place?

No artlover,
The new one will be adjacent to the Palacio Real de la Granja at San Ildefonso, a 15 min. drive from the city of Segovia, the "Little Versailles" of the Bourbon dynasty, where the wonderful fountains are and the fantastic 17th c. Flemish tapestries (Tapestry Museum still closed).
You can see pics of this summer palace
at www.patrimonionacional.es

Thanks again, Maribel. I'll keep this on my future list (a long list indeed)!

Sorry Maribel. You did indeed mention Peratallada. We stayed there for 3 nights numerous years ago in a small hotel called La Riera. Really cool & spooky at night. The ruins at Empuries was our favorite day trip.

Ian

Hi Ian,
I've visited La Riera. I've never spent the night, but the family showed us around on our first visit to Peratallada. Like you, I loved exploring Empuries. I'm really not that well versed in Greoc-Roman ruins, but I found it really fascinating.