South Florida, Transatlantic cruise, Berlin, Gorlitz and Dresden and Poland
 

We are 70 and live outside Boston. We travel frequently often in Asia of late.
We are moderate in budget with splashes of lux, but require comfort as well.

Our trip began on April 16 with a U/A flt from Boston to Ft. Lauderdale via Newark... Cheap from Expedia, booked months in advance.

We stayed our first night at the Hyatt Place Cruise Port, Ft. L, used an award night. Great location for airport and/or cruise, but only a so so hotel. Next day we picked up our car from Ace car rentals, just around the corner and I drove to Key West. I dropped my wife off at Miami airport and she flew--needed to save her expiring A/A miles. Easy 3 hour drive and we arrived about the same time.

We had more award nights available so chose the Hyatt Resort and Spa right on the water. Great room overlooking the water and pool. dinner first night was at Hogfish Cafe, a joint one key up from key west. Short wait, but good meal. K had hogfish which she loved--a. Speciality... I had lobster chowder and shrimp and fries... We shared a key lime pie...

K roamed around a bit the next AM, had a swim and then we went looking for Old Town Bakery---WOW... All fresh and amazing. Also ordered breakfast pastry for following morning.. If you spend $8 they will deliver for free. OUTSTANDING!!!!!

Late afternoon dinner at Pepe's, the oldest restaurant in KW... Early bird oysters $1.10 each, $1 beers, and $4 wine... Bring on a dozen, ok bring another dozen... We both had the swordfish special with asparagus and mango salsa... Coconut cream pie for dessert... $101. Specials 4-6 PM... 806 Caroline St. extra tip as our waiter was fantastic!!

Next AM the pastry arrived at our door at 8:30 as promised... Could not have been better.


Headed north.. Lunch stop at Midway Cafe , 80499 Overseas Hwy, Islamorada. Looks hooky but it is delicious.. Multi colored bldg on right side of road.

stayed this night at the Renaissance Hotel in Plantation...$118,senior rate, upgraded to a 5 room suite because I am Platinum with Marriott. K loved the laundromat on the 2nd floor, and I loved having free parking, and the drive to the cruise port was less than a 1/2 hour--- so much better, cheaper and nicer than hotels at cruise port.

Met some FLA Fodorites for dinner (florida1) at Le Petit Cafe in Dania (3308 Griffin Rd--954-967-9912) for dinner at 6 (special fixe price dinner if seated before 6:30---$25.99). fantastic.


Sunday we were up early and had breakfast in the dining room. Dropped our bags off at the ship by 9 and took the car back to ACE. Free shuttle back to the ship-- 5 minutes.

for the second year in a row we book the Celebrity Silhouette for it's Spring Transatlantic cruise from Ft. Lauderdale to Rome--15 nights. We had a veranda Concierge Room (9267) on deck 9, too far astern for our liking, but... P rice was an amazing $1299. Each thru www.crucon.com.

We had lunch at Bistro on 5 after embarking before our room was ready-- $5 surcharge. Far superior to the cattle car cafe on 14.

The cruise was enjoyable. we were joined by some friends whom we had met the year before. each evening we had drinks up near the pool in a quiet corner. We were the only ones there. dinner each night was in the main dining room at 8:30, which meant that we could enjoy the show in the theater each night at 7.

Our stops were Funchal, Madiera, Portugal; Gilbralta, UK; Cagliari, Sardinia, Italy; Messina, Sicily, Italy; Naples, Italy and finally Rome's port north of the city.

a fantastic driver in Funchal is Manuel Rodrigues: [email protected]. He drove us around on a set tour in his comfortable Mercedes-- 40 E for 3 hours.

Most ports we hire a taxi for the 4 of us, but not all. They all had a set route. K took a tour to Pompeii, Sorrento and along the Almafi coast from a shore vendor outside the gate-- 65 E vs $164 for a similar tour with the ship.

Upon arrival in Rome we used Bob's Limo to drive us in a van to the airport and local airport hotels--- 105 E for the 4 of us sharing an 8 person van with some others. Very cheap... Ship charges about 90 e per person for a bus...

We flew Air Berlin on an 11:45 flt to Berlin... Cheap, also bought months in advance... Like $170 for the 2 of us ( basic fare was 6 E).

NOW FINALLY the Europe part starts.

I bought 5* Priceline hotel, months in advance for Berlin. $111. Per night for the Berlin Marriott...BINGO. About 30% of normal price. Plus they honored my platinum status and upgraded our room to an exec king with full club privileges... the hotel is at Potsdammer Platz which could not be more central or convenient.

We purchased hop on hop off bus tickets for 48 hours and really got our $$ worth... there are 2 routes and we did them both more than once... 51 E for 2 seniors.

On our 2nd night I had purchased symphony tickets for us on line. The Orquestra de Cadaques with Sir Neville Marriner conducting ( age 90 now) at Koncerthaus, one of the best acoustical venues in the world. We were in the 6th row, center. 50 E each. Fantastic music, even some favorites.

Another day K walked to the site of the new Memorial to the Jews of Europe, next to the American Embassy.

After 3 days in Berlin we picked up a rental car from Avis at Europa Place which I had pre-paid thru Gemut in Oregon. They do fabulous things for German travel as well as other parts of Europe. I have often used them. 11 day rental for a Ford Fusion station wagon with all the power eqpt. And a very good built-in GPS ( included in cost of car, not an extra).
BTW, not all cars may be driven into former soviet block countries-- tell them where you are going--- theft is still a huge problem.

More after dinner..

I get to the reason for writing the report: Poland, which seems to not get much odors press.

Bob

Enjoying your report, Bob. Welcome home!

Great report so far. Can't wait to read the rest.

I wish I didn't get seasick....

We did visit KADeWe one day and had a fabulous hamby's in their gourmet burger set up on the 6th floor-- an area not unlike Harrod's food halls..

The car drives very nicely, and is amazing for a Ford. It is diesel and automatic, which is a real bonus for this price, IMO.

We drove East from Berlin, utilizing the car's excellent GPS, crossed the non-existent border into Poland. The highways are super and very new (thank you EEC). We got off the highway and ended up at a supermarket where we bought rolls, ham and salami for sandwiches along with tonic and cake.

Hit the road again towards Poznan. Our hotel, The City Solei Botique Hotel is well situated about 3 blocks from the old town square. Parking lot directly next door. The hotel is modern with " themed room"-- our was " Norway" which had a plastic moosehead on the wall. Too tired to venture into town, and with light rain, we ate at the hotel..perfectly ok.


Good breakfast the next AM and on to Warsaw. Expensive tolls to Warsaw 47PLN (3=$1). GPs took us right to the WArsaw Marriott. Upgraded again to a corner exec room. The bathroom has windows the size of a restaurant. Room 3226 on 32 floor of a mixed use bldg.
Parked in their excessively expensive garage-- luckily weekend rates are 1/2 price at $28 per day.
Used the club for some dinners and all breakfasts.

that night I had bought tickets for Madame Butterfly at the Opera Narodowa in the national theatre. A magnificent performance with modern costuming and brilliant sets. our seats were excellent... $40 each (2nd highest price). Taxi to and from the theatre. Decedent desserts across the street after the performance.

We again took the hop on hop off bus. This time going 1.5 rounds. We got off at the old town square, and walked around. This was the best day, weather wise, thus far. Lots going on in this lovely square.
Had delicious pea soup and a dessert at Shabby Chic , Piwna 20/26. Delicious... Run by young girls..tiny.

This square has been totally reconstructed since WWII, as it was raised 100%. All done accurately with the original plans.

Had drinks in the club and then went around the corner to the Radio Cafe, 56 Nowogrodzka St. Stash, the owner sits near the door, and keeps a close eye on things. He is a real character, a former journalist (recorded the only recording of the murder of RFK), a radio free Europe man stationed in Munich, and a great conversationalist. His food is the only authentic Polish fare still offered in this part of the city, and it's very reasonable... We went there twice. Soups are fab, salads are huge and fresh, desserts are all homemade... You must go here.

K took a nice walk on Mother's Day around this part of the city. At 2 we went back to Stash's for lunch...Yum.. We walked to St Barbra's church nearby but it was locked.

Next up is Krakow.

You gotta love my spelling

liking the report very much, Bob.

The hotel is modern with " themed room"-- our was " Norway" which had a plastic moosehead on the wall.>>

probably the funniest thing I've read this week.

keep it coming!

Your report is super. I am enjoying it so much.

<<I get to the reason for writing the report: Poland, which seems to not get much odors press.>>

Love this! No comments necessary.

Great report, Bob! Keep it coming (typos & all).

" fodors press"

I'm still oooohhhing & as aahhing at Sir Neville Marriner. What an absolute treat that must have been.

Thoroughly enjoying your travellers' tale - thank you!

Rain in Görlitz, huh? :-(

Cheers!

I love the "basic" 5 Euro fee on Air Berlin that ended being $170!!!

Dukes-- taxes and fees

Kracow is reported by most people to be their fav destination. We liked it very much, but the square was not our fav, that would be Wroclaw.

The drive from Warsaw to Kracow was on both 2 lane and full new highways. It took us about 5 hours with a quick lunch stop. You guessed it, a brand new mcdonalds.

We had our first GPS problem when almost to the old square in K. Just went around the block a couple of times till "she" got her bearings.

Our hotel, the Wentzl, is THE hotel in K--- right on the huge old town square. Expensive at $267. But worth the convenience for location. Our room, #35 is directly full frontage on the square on the 4th floor.
a decent sized room with a good bathroom and comfortable seating. Twin beds are a tad hard, but fine.
Double windows keep the room quiet and there is a/c.
we were steps to the door to the cloth market--tourist junk, and we looked directly out onto the huge church--both lit at night.

the square has tons of restaurants, but few shops. The church bell rings hourly, 24/7 and is followed by a short live trumpet volley, which is followed by one or more echoes. I loved it.

the breakfast is fantastic, except i did not like the way they cooked the eggs-- K liked the Vienna eggs, otherwise known as cottled eggs. the room is outrageously beautiful. An outside firm operates the restaurant at night. reservations are necessary and it is a real treat (our meal: crayfish stew, huge duck Brest with Ginger sauce, veal chop {escollaps} all served with potatoes and the best ever carrots! a full bottle of house white (French), chocolate soufflé and a white chocolate pear Neapolitan--- bottom line $101.).

we walked around the square often, drank a beer here and there, ate polish soup and ate rye bread often.

we also ate twice at Da Pietro, on the square. Pizza not that great, but K loved her pasta. the dining room is in the basement and is a vaulted ceiling authentic old room.

K went for a long walk one AM seeing things I was too lazy to see. Later that day we had polish soup again at an outdoor cafe... Oh, yes, the square is full of fancy white carriages, each being pulled by two beautiful horses.

We met a couple from darkest MI and shared breakfast with them and then they joined us for dinner at mamma Mia, Karmelicka, 14, that night. very enjoyable. $34/couple and very good.

On Thursday, May 15, we left K after breakfast and drove over an hour to Auschwitz. K did the tous, I stayed in the car-- I have been to dacau twice. she found it interesting and of course sobering.

We continued along our way to Wroclaw. Our GPS took us right to the Art Hotel at the edge of the town square, where they have a garage--tight quarters. the hotel is lovely. Our room was small, but adequate. It rained or misted for our whole 2 day stay. this was disappointing as the square was the nicest we experienced on the trip. The houses are all different, elaborated, many painted with scenes, all had high peaked roofs. A real joy.

The hotel, and a guide, recommended the restaurant Gryfami , in the square, to us. It was charming and excellent. we went twice.

We also ate dinner one night in the hotel, which was ok, but the rooms are charming, except the big one, off the bar.

Our second day, in the rain, we hired an enclosed golf cart for 2 hours for a tour around the city--a huge university town. Our driver was a 20 yo student and was quite charming. University is free here, btw.
At 230 PLN ($77) this was quite expensive but worthwhile.

Sadly we left W and headed back to Germany with a stop along the way in the pottery town of Boleslawiec, Poland. They are famous for the manufacture of the heavily decorated blue and white pottery, now world famous. K bought a few things to take home.

another McDonalds stop just before the border bridge and we arrived shortly there after in Gorlitz, German at the Schwibbogen Hotel in the Obermarkt square. We have a giant family room on the second floor with a huge bath. The room as 4 windows and is a corner room. We look out on a church and up the full length of the markt. It's raining of course.

We have looked at some of the shops and plan to have dinner in the hotel tonight--separate business, just like the Wentzl.

I hate how these tablets change some of your words.

Following along for future reference. Sounds like a nice trip, so far...

Poland was interesting. We did not do much sightseeing which pleased me... No shopping except some pottery today. Art is available but it seems to be mostly abstract modern crap.

K loved all the nice linens used in restaurants... All linen or very heavy cottons, rarely seen in USA restaurants any more. Beautiful woods also and nice tiles.

Wines are universally fantastic and reasonable. Pils beers taste so smooth. Love seeing the women putting away huge beers, even at lunch.

German and Polish foods are ok, but not my favs. Two weeks is plenty.

Bob, when you made all of the McD stops did you happen to try the coffee at a Mc Cafe? MUCH MUCH MUCH better than the Mc Cafe in the USA! If we want coffee, we will search out a Mc Cafe on the road in Switzerland, Germany, where ever. We don't really like Starbucks at all.

Have some German brats (especially Thuringia brats, before you come home! DeeeeLISH!

Don't really like sausages...surprised you do with their mystery makeup??

Did not try coffee, I don't drink coffee. Give me pastry!!!

The end of our trip is now near but there are a few days to go. We just don't seem to be able to escape the rain.

Our first nite in Gorlitz we ate in the hotel. Food was typical German. we walked around the town a bit before dinner but the rain drove us inside.

The hotel is 90 E incl. breakfast, which was good, especially the cheeses and cased meats.

About 11 we began a stroll about town in order to be at Peter and Paul church by 12 for the free organ concert. we arrived way early and sat in on the last 1/3 of the mass, including some vocals and great church organ music. The organ dates from 17 something and is very powerful.

The concert was well attended, mostly day trippers I think. The demonstration included showing off the range of the instrument as well as some of it's odder functions: bird tweets, bells, etc. It lasted about an hour, and is a weekly event on Sundays at noon.

For lunch we walked down beside the church to the river where an old dam is located which has it's power wheel creating electricity. The room above the water wheel, which can be seen thru a glass floor, is now a restaurant with a huge terrace next to the river. The footbridge next to it crosses over to Poland.

We had a delicious bowl of white asparagus soup, beers and a not great dessert. Sun came out nicely while we were there.

we walked a bit more around the town in the afternoon and K shopped a large store across the street which sells wooden items.

Dinner tonight will be in the town square at a place the receptionist has suggested. More later.

Sounds good! Better pastry tomorrow, promised! ;-)

PS: And MUCH better weather!

Yes, finally the sun is out...

the dinner was fantastic... Patrizierhaus St. Jonathan Restaurant, opposite side of square from the city hall in Gorlitz... Inside and out, but inside is ablaze with candles. K had her best meal of the trip a local pork dish with stewed fruits. I had the pumpkin and various seed soup followed by a huge antipasto. About $70 with beers and 3 wines. CASH ONLY!!!! We were counting coins to pay-- no nearby ATM...

Gorlitz-- you want to see the real "authentic" Germany.... This is it. the town was basically untouched by WWII. The blogs are from the 14-16th C. Our hotels has found some 15th C murals in the breakfast room. The hotel is perfectly located on the Obermarkt at the entrance to the bulk of the old town-- Hotel Schwibbogen, 90 E. We had a huge family room and a big bath too. Internet 1,99 E/24 hrs. great breakfast.

got to run, Ingo is coming for coffee in 5 minutes.

It's almost 6PM and the church bells in Dresden are going crazy... I love it.

Finding ATM's in Gorlitz was not easy so I gave up.

This AM we left the hotel in search do wine, water and an ATM... we found nothing, but did see parts of the town less updated.

The ride to Dresden was about 1+ hours all on a super highway.

a word about the drive from Berlin to Dresden, through Poland. The drive could not have been nicer. Most was on excellent highways with frequent rest and food stops with very clean facilities and decent to good food. The countryside ranged from flat farming lands to rolling hills to slightly higher elevations and several tunnels. gas was
Reasonable and very available. The countryside was very green and the rich earth was very brown. Flowering rape presented a wonderful yellow landscape in many areas as did the broom, also yellow. wild flowers grew along roadways with white, purple, yellow and red colors.
the woods were very green too with pines and birch primarily, along with other assorted trees. Home gardens have been planted as well as commercial ones...Wheat was waist high already in some places. Potatoes are well on their way too. Pansies are big here and brightly colored.

the woods always intrigue as the Germans keep them clean, including the underbrush, as well as trim the branches way up to near the top on pines grown for cutting. The poles have adapted this as well.


so Ingo, the famous Dresden Fodorites whom we have known for 10 years came by at 2. Damn, I just spilled champagne all over my left pant's leg, my carryon, the rug and my foot. sure cannot double task.

The sun was by now out very brightly, so we walked to his favorite pastry shop (Colselpalias), out in the main square of the historic section of Dresden. we each selected a fab pastry and a drink to go with it. they were delivered to our outside table under a huge umbrella--and were they good. we chatted for a long time. He made suggestions for the rest of our stay. I think we will take a steam boat up river for the day tomorrow and visit the Pilnitz Palace and gardens, as the forcast is for a perfect day.

He, and his parents, will meet us then at 7 for dinner.

after our snack, we walked over to the Fraeunkirche Lutheran Cathedral and sat inside marveling at what had been reconstructed from the ruins left from 1945, when Dresden was bombarded in the last days of WWII. It's quite amazing and has cost millions, mostly from private donations-- 46% of the stone is new. It was fire rather than bombs which caused the damage to this building. the restoration was begun in the 1990's. We also went into the lower level where there are still crypts containing bodies.

we admired the large statue of Martin Luther in the square, before returning to the hotel.

Our hotel this stop, our final stop, is the Dresden Hilton. I can't say enough for it's location. It is smack in the middle of all the historic buildings on offer for tourists to Dresden. I got an excellent rate of 112.5 E., incl breakfast and internet. Nearby is the QF Quartier an der Frauenkirche Hotel where BillT will be staying soon. We will meet them for dinner one night.

Tonight we have a reservation at Paulaner's im Taschenbergpalias across the square in the Grand Hotel-- a gastro brew pub. It gets rave reviews for German foods.

Enjoying your report! I spent a month in the Altes Dresden serviced apartments in Dec 2011. My 4th (maybe 5th, I forget) floor apartment faced the Frauenkirche and the Hilton. Coffee and pastry at the Coselpalais was my afternoon treat after a hard day of classes at the Goethe Institut. What pastry did you get? I tried several but ended up addicted to the Prater raspberry and buttercream confection.

I have enjoyed reading your report! Glad you have had a good time. I will be using your report as a reference hopefully in the near future for a Poland/Germany trip.

DH would have stayed with you in the car at Auschwitz - when we go, I will be touring on my own like K...

It was so much fun having dinner with you both before your departure! Hope we can meet up again soon!

Safe travels home!!

Bob, when I told history nut DH that you went to Auschwitz, he said he would NOT want to visit there. Is this a "MAN THING" I wonder? Not that I would particularly want to go there myself...

I had the walnut and masipan (sp) and K had the mango creme... Ingo had a multilayered strawberry.

Enjoyed the time with you both this afternoon VERY much! Delicious fancy cakes ... Hope the supper at Paulaner's was good. See you tomorrow!

For the husbands waiting in the car know that the tour of Auschwitz is 3.5 hours. May- oct you have to take a tour as there are so many people. 40€ that includes the rental of the ear phones. Half way thru they put you on a bus to Brecken the other half. It was a good tour, I am glad I went, but Bob was getting antsy as we did not know going in how long it was. Well preserved and somber.

For the husbands waiting in the car know that the tour of Auschwitz is 3.5 hours. May- oct you have to take a tour as there are so many people. 40€ that includes the rental of the ear phones. Half way thru they put you on a bus to Brecken the other half. It was a good tour, I am glad I went, but Bob was getting antsy as we did not know going in how long it was. Well preserved and somber.

Today's report has disappeared.... UGH

Took boat trip up river and back very nice.

Carol... Ask me again when I see you.

Bob,
I'm enjoying your report and its nice to see the same posters in different forums. Thanks for all the the detail about the scenery, roads and the drives. Sorry to hear you ran into so much rain.

I've cooled down a bit now..

Yesterday we took a steamer up the river about 90 minutes to the stop near to Pillnitz Schloss. Wonderful relaxing ride on a clear sunny day. Many had meals aboard.

I hung out in the local bakery ( don't tell Ingo) while K did the walking tour-- about 1 hour+. when she returned we had a delicious lunch-- soup and salad, plus the most delicious cakes while we waited for our 3:15 boat. BTW, the engine room is open and very interesting to look. Our ship on the way back is the eldest in the fleet-- maybe 1909?

dinner with Ingo and his parents at Steiger am Landhaus, wildsruffer str 4-6, was fantastic. It was so fun to see his parents again after 10 years. We had a delicious meal: 1/2 portions of veal snitzle (sp) and fabulous white asparagus with fresh hollandaise sauce... We could not even finish a 1/2 portion, I can't imagine what a full portion would be. It is white asparagus season till June 24. the stalks are huge and a standard length and extremely tasty.

From Steiger, we walked across the square for dessert at Coselpalais for cakes... Mine was a multi layered white cake with real raspberry jam between the layers and a very rich frosting... CALL MY DOCTOR...

They had to run to catch their 10:30 bus--- Hope they made it.


SO, for the last day of our trip, we woke to beautiful sunshine. another filling Hilton breakfast, supplemented by 2 pieces of Ingo's mother all natural bread---DELICIOUS!!!!!

We had an 11AM ticket to enter the recently restored old green vaults (Grunes Gewolbe), purchased on line for 23 E each. These, along with their sister collection are housed again in the former royal Schloss on floors 1 and 2. They are the main reason we returned to Dresden. They are wold class in every way... You could spend hours but we spent only 1.5 hours--- sensory overload.

Upon exiting the Schloss we found Pauanler's, where we had eaten our first night right across the street.
We took an outside table and had the freshest salads ever, with bottled water. we returned to the hotel and K has now gone out for a walk for a couple of hours, with her phone/ camera.

We will meet up with Olive and bill about 5 and scout out something to eat. Maybe outside as it will be warm.

I'm having the same transmission problems as yesterday...Thank Fodors... Every other site works fine

If you can get to the armor museum or the Turkish exhibition ( both in same building as the Grunes Gewolbe, I would recommend it. It was fantastic. We were there in Feb.

So glad you are catching up with Bill and Olive! That's great! I'm sure you will have a nice time together.

Re: the white asparagus.... one of my favorites! It is usually in season when we go to Switzerland in the spring. I always have to have some of it. And yes, a half portion is more than enough!!!

Have a safe trip home.