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Slowly does it...our trip to north Italy
I could describe this better as a gentle meander through the Trentino Alto - Adige (with a short visit to Lake Garda). We are part way through our holiday. It’s another slow trip. Last September I took my father to Bavaria, this time it’s my mother’s turn. Background to trip: Over several previous trips to Italy I have stayed in Milan/ Cinque Terre/ Volterra/ Florence/ Verona/ Trento/ Ortisei/ Trezzone (on northern end of Lake Como)/ Bergamo/ Chiavenna. Happy to explore a bit more for a short, autumnal visit. Easy to base and day trip. Chose region as this is a short trip - travel routes are uncomplicated; enjoying regional differences, excellent food, transport, scenery: mountains, lakes, vineyards, orchards, charming towns, castles. This is an Italian and German speaking area. (The Trentino-Alto Adige region is divided into two provinces. The southern province of Trentino is mostly Italian speaking while in the northern province of the Alto Adige, called Südtirol or South Tyrol, the inhabitants seemed to speak both languages and towns have both an Italian and a German name. South Tyrol was part of Austria-Hungary before being annexed by Italy in 1919.) Great food and wine Category: Dolomites - The WineKnitter and food festivals eg the upcoming Bread and Strudel festival in Bressanone, the Speck festival in Val Di Funes, potato festival in Villabassa, and mountain cheeses, Schlutzkrapfen, smoked pork, Tirtlan, ….. Researching restaurants was surprising, so many quality options, even in a small town like Bressanone and the villages in the Val Pusteria https://www.italytraveller.com/en/e/...-the-dolomites Even a Michelin starred restaurant in Dobbiaco. https://www.pustertal.org/en/top-sea...n-holiday.html Other factors: As I am taking my (active and fit) 81 year old mother, she had a few requests, one of which was a destination country that has a reciprocal health agreement with Australia (travel insurance does not cover pre existing conditions) and she is from East Germany, so language was a consideration. note: this is nearing end of summer season, with some hotels winding down, and while some cablecars still run until 13 Oct, do check seasonal closures. Nonconformist’s report https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...ounds-1655608/ inspired me! Other useful resources: https://www.suedtirol.info/en Timetables https://www.sii.bz.it/en/siipdfOldtimetables Plan: Arrival (a night in Innsbruck) and departure days not included, we opted for 3 bases, with 8 nights in San Candido in the Val Pusteria, 3 nights in Bressanone and 3 nights in Malcesine (Lake Garda, in the Veneto). Leisurely travel back to Munich (Freising), via a night in Vipiteno. |
Travel day: Adelaide to Innsbruck Qatar flight to Doha 14 hours, short layover then 6 hours to Munich arr 1:15pm, about 23:5 hours travel. On arrival, an efficient exit from Munich airport (no queues, quick baggage) then the S8 to OST Bahnhof, and an EC train to Innsbruck (€49 each, 2 hours) arriving 5:20 pm (note: Werdenfels ticket is cheaper, but a longer ride) Innsbruck 1 night at “Altstadthotel Weißes Kreuz” €174 double room with breakfast Located in the lovely pedestrianised old town, really nice, quiet, historic hotel, we were in an attic room, 5 th floor, great room size (comfort room category). Early enough arrival in Innsbruck so a late afternoon stroll and then dinner. Packed pedestrian zone this balmy Saturday evening, lots of outdoor eateries and a few stores still open. My mother immediately attracted to a linen store and purchased a tablecloth. A nice light dinner (pumpkin soup with Styrian pumpkin seed oil), a goats cheese salad, a glass of white wine (€30 each) and an early night. Dinner was good value, but we were clueless when our €3 glass of wine (we thought) turned out to be a taster, like a small mouthful. So asked for a glass, which was €12! Probably a very fine wine, ha. |
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Innsbruck https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...653816942.jpeg Innsbruck https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d1b457e0.jpeg Innsbruck https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...279fafdec.jpeg Innsbruck https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0f15bea4d.jpeg Innsbruck |
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We were not alone |
Day 1: Innsbruck to San Candido (Innichen) We were both awake at 2:30 am, but did nap a bit after a few hours, so not too shabby. Rain clearing. Brisk early morning stroll, no tourists yet, just street sweepers, joggers, gardeners, wandered to the Hofgarten, huge old trees, just lovely. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c5102729c.jpeg It’s quiet at 7:30 am on a Sunday... Fabulous breakfast with muesli, fruits, pumpkin seeded breads, boiled egg, cheese, and a jump starting double espresso. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...715caa2f3.jpeg Hofgarten This was a nice way to break up our journey to South Tirol, and recharge. Departing late morning, so a gentle, relaxing start. 2:5 hour train journey (€17 each) from Innsbruck to San Candido (1 change in Fortezza) This is the train to Bologna, so quite full. Seats had notes reserved all along, but we snagged a couple hoping no one would claim them. Turned out the notes just say “ if reserved, please vacate your seat” but it looked to us like “seats reserved”. Departed Innsbruck 11:24 am arrived San Candido 14:10. Note: Just missed the return of the cows (yesterday) It is a 5 minute walk to the Hotel Baranci https://www.hotel-baranci.com/en/ €936 for 8 nights double room including half board booked direct with hotel. Wandered into the town, which was buzzing with a flea market (kitchenware, books, the kids’ old lederhosen, grandma’s religious art), and stores open this Sunday afternoon. Speck and cheese store was packed, smelled so good. And a really cute store with Christmas decorations, I loved it. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...af92789aa.jpeg San Candido https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5f41e21d0.jpeg San Candido https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e9b210d62.jpeg San Candido Stepped into a few churches, the monastery church has frescoes from 1280. https://www.drei-zinnen.info/en/san-...te-church.html picked up a gelati, wandered back. Cousin arrived, they had a long journey from north east Germany. Our hotel has a comfortable common lounge, where we could enjoy a pre dinner drink and catch up. Tonight’s half board dinner : warm and cold buffet style appetizers and salad/ veg options, choice of 3 entrees (risotto, pumpkin soup, ravioli) and mains (lamb, pork, omelette) and strudel for dessert. Nice meal, I think half board is a good option in these small towns. Pre order your choice at breakfast. A note on half board: breakfasts here include cereals, yoghurts, fruits, cheeses, cold meats, eggs cooked as you like (2 fried eggs on Speck was fantastic), great variety of sour dough and seeded breads, 4 choices wonderful local jams, coffee made to order, variety of cakes...and dinners are 4 courses with appetiser/ salad / veg from buffet, choices for first and main course. Dessert and / or cheese as well. We usually just had the main course with veg / sometimes cheese. Great variety and quality. Lots of regional produce. |
Day 2: San Candido a cool 12C max, cloudy, and rain forecast. Both awake at 4:30 am. Long slow breakfast, and short drive to Brunico. Busy road, lots of car and truck traffic. Lumber yards, dairies, farms, villages en route. Brunico has a charming historic centre, with nice stores which was handy this wet day. We visited the Speck museum and store, a fabulous cellar that can be viewed. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41b83ecca.jpeg Cheeses and speck stored in cellar https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db2901269.jpeg Brunico facades https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d5a845243.jpeg Brunico street https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fd461f7d0.jpeg Walk up to castle https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...83ee8e188.jpeg Brunico Castle https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...dedb148f0.jpeg Driving the Val Pusteria Also a few table runner and soap purchases. Then wandered up to the castle. We didn’t visit, as my mother’s eyesight not adequate for reading lots of text, but for anyone interested the Messner Mountain Museum is located here. Museum - Messner Mountain Museen We lunched at a little cafe, excellent coffee, toasted bauernbrot with speck, cheese, tomato, strudel (€25 for lunch for 4!) but a bit of chaos with a crowded store and no clear system for ordering or paying, staff run off their feet. Wandered along the river and old town until rain too heavy to enjoy. |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b5e79f8b1.jpeg Villabassa Day 3: San Candido (Both awake at 4:30am) finer weather forecast, so off to Lago Di Braies with hundreds of others…. First, bought speck and cheese rolls from a cafe/ bar that was packed with elderly locals having coffee, seemed like regulars who ‘catch up’ there. A good choice for our picnic lunch later at the lake. Minimal car parking and crowded (? Instagram effect, and it featured in an Italian TV show), so public transport a good option. https://www.drei-zinnen.info/en/brai...of-braies.html A 10 min train ride to Villabassa, then 20 min bus ride through a lovely valley to the lake. Very popular with walkers and their dogs, and a few wedding photo shoots. It is as pretty as expected, with turquoise water and surrounding mountains. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...aecd7aa59.jpeg Reflections https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22ccf51fc.jpeg Lake walk https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...baf15ca5a.jpeg Turquoise water https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2a6f71c50.jpeg Lake walk https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a4ba5c1e6.jpeg Lovely lake https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...682d61773.jpeg Time for lunch https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...189875fe6.jpeg Loop walk from here The path gets a bit crowded, at times. Had our picnic rolls with a local merlot, it’s a good life. Would have added Malga Foresta/Grünwaldalm (30 min) to our wander perhaps, but this walk seemed enough for my mother. Stopped in Villabassa on our return for a stroll and coffee and cake. A very charming village. |
Day 4: San Candido Overcast, some rain, quite cool Drive to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Passed the Lago Di Dobbiaco, through valley and stopped at Lago Di Landro for a quick look (views to Cristallo group, but clouds came over quickly), before continuing on to Cortina d’Ampezzo. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...18fc3685e.jpeg Cortina d’Ampezzo https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1fc3081af.jpeg Beautiful drive https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e56508338.jpeg Beautiful drive https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...de1a9d666.jpeg Near Lago Di Landro Cloudy and wet, so wandered the pedestrian zone, lots of upmarket fashion stores and very stylish Italians. Larger town than I expected. Obviously geared for tourists. Nice lunch of tortellini in brodo (€8 plus €4 drinks) before driving back via loop through Misurina (mountain views clouded over) and back to Cortina, before returning to San Candido. This is a fantastic drive, whether by car or bus, stunning views all around. |
Day 5: San Candido Stroll around town, and chairlift Haunold Baranci (€10 each, one way). Lunch at the chairlift station (Speck dumplings in broth, €8) and walked the children’s “Giant walk” loop, then on to Wildbad (the chapel and hotel ruins) and on to San Candido. Very pleasant walk, just the right length for my mother. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b232ed496.jpeg Changeable weather https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b5abd87d.jpeg Wispy clouds https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d1f07eba5.jpeg Wildbad https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...27c655e05.jpeg Chapel at Wildbad https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...db610b148.jpeg Autumnal colour Through forest, valley views, the mineral waters and ruins at Wildbad very interesting. The hotel went into decline during the First World War and never recovered. |
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Day 6: San Candido Forecast is for fine weather early. Finally! Off to Tre Cime. Decided against shuttle bus, but a good option (train to Dobbiaco, then shuttle bus €15). Cousin drove, left at 8:30 am (weather forecast showed sunny 9-12), also car parking limits to consider - €30 to enter, there was a queue when we exited. One out, one in by then. Incredible drive up to Auronzo. Season winding down, so less busy but still heavily visited and more so as a sunny morning. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6d2bc5650.jpeg Gorgeous day, so lucky. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c66f51755.jpeg The drive up https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...16d74548c.jpeg Car parking! We did the flat walk to Lavaredo hut, 30 minutes, I went on to Forcella Lavaredo, 1 km further (uphill, but easy). https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...125d3bd1d.jpeg Jagged peaks https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9aa0a5ef0.jpeg Auronzo hut https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d063b7b61.jpeg Stunning https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c8340fc4d.jpeg Easy walk to first hut https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a04ac9af7.jpeg Flat path https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c245a12cd.jpeg Flat path I found the distances between huts online, and note most describe the loop walk as ‘easy’ 10.6 km. But a hiker was airlifted out, and some experienced hikers told us it was more difficult than they expected. Quite a bit of ascent/ descent. We felt satisfied with the compromise we made, the Auronzo to Lavaredo path is flat, but still has stupendous views. My mother happy to stop there. The little extra 20 minute uphill walk to Forcella grants you the views of Locatelli hut and the other side of the 3 peaks. Just astonishing. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...249e45cd9.jpeg Tre Cime https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b70a7d34.jpeg Hikers on path - look like ants... https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7bf121ceb.jpeg Hikers on path https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2ce1dddd.jpeg Hikers on path, rock climbers on right peak (mid way) https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8776bbca5.jpeg Locatelli hut https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f0869394c.jpeg Hikers This is from online: From Rifugio Auronzo to Rifugio Lavaredo 30 min ca. – 1,7 km From Rifugio Lavaredo to Forcella Lavaredo 20 min ca – 1,0 km (road) From Forcella Lavaredo to Rifugio Locatelli 40 min ca – 1,9 km (road) From Rifugio Locatelli tp Malga dei Pastori 1,15 ora ca – 2,8 km From Malga dei Pastori to Rifugio Auronzo 35 min ca – 2,1 k Stunning blue sky, incredible views. Fantastic lunch at Malga Popena, on the return drive. Gnocchi, gesternsuppe, Speck and cheese platter, Speck dumplings in broth, beers, cake, fresh yoghurt and berries, fruit, coffees, €66 for 4. A wonderful experience, great food with ingredients mostly their own or sourced locally. Incredible day. |
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Rock climber https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2fec128ab.jpeg Lavaredo hut in left of photo ...looks tiny https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a884a0d0a.jpeg Path hard to spot https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2b929ce27.jpeg Hikers closer up |
Lovely report - very much enjoying it!
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Your photos are awesome, and the scenery is spectacular! How high is the mountain? Do people suffer from high altitude sickness?
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Gorgeous photos! Like you, I am a big fan of hiking in the Dolomiti. San Candido looks like a good base. Your mom must be in excellent shape.
Looking forward to more details and more photos. Enjoy your trip. |
Really enjoying your report. Your pictures are beautiful. :) |
Great report and photos; thank you. |
Your pictures are beautiful! |
Wow. Great photos and report. Thanks. |
Great report and photos! Can't wait to see more. I am really missing the Dolomites, and we haven't even been home a month.
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Day 8 : San Candido Farewelled cousin today. I went solo by train to the next village, Versciaco (€1.50 after a battle with ticket machine, and remembered to validate) only a 5 minute journey. Walked up to the church on the hill, gorgeously sited overlooking farms, the village, the mountains. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9cc0bbf09.jpeg Versciaco https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5eaf8d281.jpeg Versciaco https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d22a7e224.jpeg Versciaco Bought a €20 ticket for cablecar up to Mt Elmo with a return to Sesto. A little flustered when the ticket wouldn’t scan, and attendant told me I had incorrect ticket. Eventually discovered I was trying to scan my train ticket, oops. Very hazy on the mountain. Had a raspberry juice mixed with soda and a bauernbrot with cheese and speck, but sky didn’t clear so headed down to Sesto. Then walked to Moso, another charming village. Just beautiful. My camera snapping away at the velvet green paddocks, cows, geranium filled balconies. Heaven. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...389638717.jpeg Moso https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5fbc8926f.jpeg Moso https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f2040cb38.jpeg Moso https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a9584a9f8.jpeg Moso A short bus ride and I was back in San Candido. Mum had been on a local walk and lunched outdoors. We had a final stroll around town and a fragola gelato was just the right late afternoon snack. Our final night. 8 nights in this hotel. Staff speak several languages, no problem for travellers that don’t speak Italian or German, although we did not hear any English speaking guests here. Mostly Germans, Italians, and Swiss. |
Day 9: depart San Candido arr Bressanone (Brixen)
80 min train ride, via Fortezza €10.50 each and an easy 15 min walk to the “Hotel Grauer Bär / Orso Grigio” on Altenmarktgasse 27 €468 for 2 single rooms for 3 nights (single rooms €78 per day inc breakfast and Brixen card, plus free entry to wellness centre opposite) Great value in the historic centre, nice ambience, beer garden with chestnut trees, a reading room, spotlessly clean, friendly host. Hotel Grauer Bär *** in Brixen/Bressanone (South Tyrol) - Herzlich Willkommen Brixen card (free cablecars, regional transport, museums): https://www.brixen.org/en/trovare-al...tage-card.html “The following means of transport can be used free of charge and without restrictions: All regional trains in South Tyrol to Trento (marked in the time table with an R). All city and regional buses in South Tyrol The cable cars to Renon, Maranza, San Genesio, Meltina, Verano and Colle The narrow gauge railway Renon and the funicular railway up Mendola A return journey with the PostAuto Schweiz from Malles to Müstair” Bressanone is much smaller than Bolzano, more our preferred size. It was surprisingly quiet when we arrived as it was the mid day closures. We lunched on pizza and minestrone, and wandered aimlessly. Nice old alleys, porticoed arcades, colourful facades, churches, river. So delightful. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...2ff902718.jpeg Bressanone https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b8a0d52ad.jpeg Bressanone https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0c63b299b.jpeg Bressanone https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...72e03e3f2.jpeg Bressanone Naturally, my mother found another linen store and now has 3 new tablecloths in her backpack. A nice buzz as the town came back to life, with stores open (many elegant fashion shops), people in bars, outdoor dining, dog walkers, lots of cyclists. We scored an early table at the Kutscherhof, a friendly waitress helped with the menu. I had Tiroler dumplings and Schlutzkrapfen, and an Aperol Spritz, Mum had potato and parsley soup, and an Elderberry long drink, we shared a large mixed salad, really excellent food and only €37 https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fbe48086f.jpeg Regional food cookbooks https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8e02a71b0.jpeg Tiroler dumplings https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...978564bac.jpeg Regional food cookbook Then a stroll through the aldstadt during ‘blue hour’. Lovely. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fc6a6c0fb.jpeg Lovely light https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...89dad8b47.jpeg Quiet evening https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9b8f277b9.jpeg Piazza at the cathedral and town hall https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...612e7b0e5.jpeg Our street https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3d4fb0298.jpeg Cathedral |
Day 10: Bressanone Cloudy Missing my muesli for breakfast, but realise that as we move south, breakfasts become lighter and sweeter, more Italian. Still, an adequate meal of breads, some cold cuts, packaged jam, an apple and plum, piece of cake (we didn’t indulge), coffee, juice. As breakfast is served to the table, unlike buffets we were encouraged to use our surplus for lunch, so we had our home made rolls in our bag for the day. 34 min train to Bolzano. Free with Brixen card (otherwise €6), but regional trains only, and the card must be validated. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...93ae80385.jpeg Bolzano https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...513459b3c.jpeg Bolzano https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...23f3285fa.jpeg Bolzano https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...28f1f3680.jpeg Bolzano Wandered through various piazzas, alleys, into churches, street market, past Mareccio Castle, and into the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology Ötzi the Iceman, Museum of Archaeology Bolzano to see Ötzi, the mummified ice man from the Copper Age. Entry €9 free with Brixen card. The museum built especially to preserve the mummy. Well displayed explanations (Italian, German, English) of his clothing, weapons, tools, a life sized reconstruction, while he is viewed through a small window into his specially built preservation chamber. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...31331ca20.jpeg Reconstruction https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...669bc2efa.jpeg Reconstruction https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3e1889727.jpeg Footwear reconstruction https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...22cf8dba4.jpeg Screenshot from internet, no photos allowed Bolzano has an attractive old town, a lot of churches, museums (Mercantile Museum closed in the afternoons, I overlooked this), outdoor dining. A really nice buzz, but too hectic for us. Very glad to be in Bressanone. Also, the beggars and homeless in the Bolzano parks was confronting. Have had idyllic village / small town experiences so far and the realities of modern life was jarring. I enjoyed strolling past the high end stores, but felt uncomfortable I suppose. We had our coffee and chestnut shortbread in Bressanone instead. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d0f46952d.jpeg Did not get to the monastery in Bolzano or the Castello Roncolo. Dinner of Gnocchi and a Porcini Tagliatelli, a beer and a red wine (€33). |
Day 11: Bressanone Wet weather forecast for Wednesday morning so: A few town excursions while it is raining. We visited the cloisters of the cathedral (wonderful frescoes) and the Hofburg Diocesan museum: bishops private rooms, art museum, the cathedral treasury, and collection of nativity scenes. Usually €8 entry, free with Brixen card. A great wet morning outing. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...778496b7a.jpeg Cloisters https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1d67b7eae.jpeg Cathedral https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c6b996a61.jpeg Cloister and garden https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fe1b712f4.jpeg Hofburg treasury https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bff523d55.jpeg Hofburg apartments of bishops https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e234cecdd.jpeg Reliquary https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...67a6c6f32.jpeg Hofburg museum Then bus to Velturno (Feldthurns) 20 min up high in the hills (TI suggested this route when I asked about a trip to Chiusa) to walk via Kastanienweg (chestnut way) to Chiusa. I love bus rides when they get me to the little villages, often amazing views. This ride was really gorgeous. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6788ebbc6.jpeg Bus options, worth checking just for ideas for outings https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...033a6650c.jpeg Velturno We joined the chestnut way walk from here. Passed farms, up high so great views over the valley, through chestnut forest, apple orchards, vineyards, the monastery.... https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...f90b6b061.jpeg Across the valley https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...8734b3223.jpeg Velvet green https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...4f9f7cf23.jpeg The chestnut way https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c904586cc.jpeg Farms https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e6d9f3280.jpeg Chapel https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...07e34e5ca.jpeg Chestnut way https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5b441f8ac.jpeg Distant peaks About 2 ½ hours walk by then. while we saw the trail sign in Pardell, we asked a local who suggested the road (I presumed because of trail difficulty). But we got on an old road, and took us a long way off in other direction - must have missed a sign as we were then on a track that just looked wrong, but we were too invested by then (no way were we backtracking uphill). Our path joined an unsigned fork in a road and luckily a driver stopped and gave us a lift to Chiusa (Klausen) where we had ice cream and a short wander. It would have been a long walk on the road as it followed the ravine. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b570d0d21.jpeg Monastery from the trail https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...681bad7fd.jpeg Monastery from Chiusa https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...eb926d1ef.jpeg Lovely town https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...3c0460a26.jpeg Fantastic afternoon ice cream Gorgeous town, worthy of a longer visit. But, dinner called, so we hopped on a train for our 7 min ride back to Bressanone, and returned to Kutscherhof for another excellent dinner. I had salmon tartare and guacamole, my mother had barley risotto, we shared a small mixed salad (got my veg) (€41 with 2 drinks) https://www.suedtirolerland.it/en/le...nd-bressanone/ https://www.suedtirolerland.it/en/so...ity-of-chiusa/ https://www.valleisarco.info/en/vall...g-walk-chiusa/ Then train 7 min back to Bressanone On my potential to do list: had we stayed longer. 2 hour walk St Cyrilus path and Pinzago village, https://map.redrooster.it/en/st-cyri...n--1-6329.html - my mother not keen on a long walk with unknown ascent/ descent Plose - this looks nice if not going to Dolomites. Trento is a gorgeous town, but I have stayed there previously. And have done the Müstair bus ride, suggested by TI. But great ideas for a longer holiday. .................................................. ................................ Have been busy writing, as I’m sleeping so badly! |
A wonderful report and amazing photos.
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Bookmarking for later... I've only gotten up to Post #10 but wonderful reading so far. I'm so glad when Adelaidean goes on a trip!
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More amazing photos! Those desserts are to die for!! How old is your mother? I am amazed at all the walking the both of you are doing!
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Thank you so much for taking the trouble to post such an entertaining and detailed report. Makes me wonder why DH and I never went to this bit of Italy as he would have enjoyed all the walking so much [as would I as it looks pretty easy or with easy options] but you have given me plenty of ideas for a solo trip.
looking forward to more! |
I enjoyed following your time in the mountains and took away some ideas for next time. Bressanone was #2 on our "plan B" list for rainy days, but we only had to go to that list once. We drove through Chiusa/Klausen on our way in to the Val di Funes - I think that's where we encountered a parade.
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Greetings from Switzerland Adelaidean - great report! We must get ourselves to Italy soon. Loving your photos - I have dessert (and menu price) envy!
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Fantastic photos Adelaidean, signing on. This area is high on my wish list for a visit. Very nice that your mother is able to join you on this active trip, slowly or not.
As I started reading I was wondering if you had stopped by one of the Messner Museums and saw your comment about it. I've had several of his books in my collection. European hotel breakfast buffets certainly put to shame anything I've ever seen in the US. |
Thanks for reading and commenting. Hope it helps. Karen, my mother is 81, is very active with group fitness classes and walking, and incidental exercise ( we are on 3rd floor here and she would not take the lift). But she does tire more these days (I can keep up with her now, LOL). Mel, so cheap to eat here, but I’ve had so many Tiroler dumplings and I’ve promised hubby not to come home shaped like one, I’m now trying to order salads. |
What a lovely trip report, thank you Adelaidean! Beautiful photos.
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As always, a thoroughly enjoyable report. Love your writing style, food and shopping details, beautiful photos. |
Day 12: Bressanone to Malcesine Travel logistics : Went to TI for advice on best routing, via Rovereto and Torbole, or Trento and Riva del Garda. Either way, it’s a train south, and bus or two. €20 each to Rovereto on the EC train. Could have used regional trains as far as Trento on the Brixen card if I’d planned this properly, not so full AND free to there. Or, had I booked in advance I could have reserved seats on the EC, as it was I stood the entire journey, managed to get Mum a seat after 40 minutes. So, in hindsight, using regional trains might have worked better, or, pre reserving seats when on the fast trains. Nice train ride, picturesque scenery, through the wide valley with a lot of orchards and vineyards and small villages, with wonderful mountains. First bus that arrived at Rovereto was to Riva del Garda (€2.80 each) so we got on that, had to change in Nago, then again in Torbole, and wait for bus to Malcesine (€3.60 each). All a bit cumbersome with luggage and me not knowing exactly the routing or stops. Bus ride down to lake is spectacular. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fedbd37c7.jpeg From the bus, leaving Nago, heading to Torbole. My mother has never been to one of these very touristy (but charming to our eyes) lake or coastal towns (we’d been to Vernazza, similar atmosphere). Checked in to our hotel, “Hotel Modena” 2 single rooms total €258 for 3 nights inc breakfast total simple, clean, great location. We did our wander, she loved the cobbled lanes, the colourful shuttered facades and the lake/ mountain landscape, the buzz. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fcbc7a118.jpeg Looking north, towards Riva https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...1c8c5b029.jpeg Gorgeous day https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a40689c44.jpeg Colourful facades https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...afaf9e72c.jpeg Colourful facades https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...152d0bfc2.jpeg Stone buildings https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a0e8c038c.jpeg Busy alleys We had dinner at a tiny little restaurant by our hotel. Salad for me, spaghetti vongole for my mother. With 3 drinks €30 Really nice. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...14ede20ff.jpeg Tiny restaurant, lovely https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...04430e112.jpeg Tiny restaurant Malcesine: Lake Garda Tourist Guide | Italy Heaven Then an evening stroll https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...42e59492e.jpeg Quiet streets now https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...36011f12f.jpeg Nice atmosphere https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...44ad6c715.jpeg Lovely evening light https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a6b4f78e7.jpeg Peaceful |
Day 13: Malcesine Followed the tourist hordes today. Took ferry to Limone (€6) - take a jacket, the wind is brisk - and wandered the crowded alleys, had gelato, strolled the promenade, my mother poking about the little shops. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e0f2ce45e.jpeg One of the ferry options at Malcesine https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...fb361a273.jpeg The little harbour at Malcesine https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...bacb19c50.jpeg Passing the Scaligero Castle, Malcesine https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e37e6318b.jpeg Lots of dogs on holiday https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...a8f0796b9.jpeg Approaching Limone https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c82c91d13.jpeg Limone https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9d9defbff.jpeg Limone https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...32213e26d.jpeg Docking at Limone https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...185974811.jpeg The little harbour in Limone https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...9f96596e9.jpeg Stunning lunch spot https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...41bd0d865.jpeg Limone https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...7115e0416.jpeg Limone https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ba007c6b3.jpeg Alleys https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...235503bfc.jpeg Love the tiny pockets of gardens https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...d9273aba8.jpeg Alleys https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0d66fe96c.jpeg Gardening in Limone, https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...e3b3e6095.jpeg The promenade in Limone Then took a ferry to a Riva del Garda (€5) and wandered again. I like this town. Once off the harbour area (which is very attractive), it is quiet and elegant. It doesn’t have the tiny alleys, nor is it confined to a minuscule strip of land between lake and mountain, so the crowd thins and it is easier to enjoy. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...0da79f36b.jpeg Road between Riva and Limone partly tunnelled into mountain https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...6560b9379.jpeg Approaching Riva del Garda https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...05025a74d.jpeg Looking towards Torbole https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5a9bf7506.jpeg Riva del Garda promenade https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...cb2ffc227.jpeg Streets of Riva del Garda https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...66bb51f77.jpeg Alley in Riva del Garda https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c72bf2789.jpeg Charming architecture https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...5e97f0cc5.jpeg Promenade walk https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...c92f77e07.jpeg Main square on promenade We had lunch on the promenade (really good pasta and a glass of merlot), and took the 484 bus back to Malcesine. All easy to navigate, the TI’s helpful and bus drivers surprisingly patient. The Ponale path looked popular, if looking for a walk/ bike ride in Riva. I booked us a table at the restaurant we dined at last night (it’s tiny, so grabbing a reservation a few hours before is wise) and we shared a pizza and salad, with 2 drinks €25. |
HowhowhowhowHOW did I miss your report for so long!! Stunning, as always. I have a love/hate reaction to your and melnq8's trip reports: lovelove them for the beauty and the inspiration, but hate them for giving me itchy feet and boatload of envy.
Wow, truly beautiful! Some of the towns look almost like Bavaria -- Sexton & Moso particularly. Brixton looks amazing! Definitely a stop there sometime! I also spent time in Malcesine, and while I liked the town, I don't know if I'll return. I like the looks and position of Garda town, so I'll be looking to see if you visit. Wow. Thanks so much for posting! s |
Ha, swandav, you get to see my photos on Facebook, so guess you got in earlier anyway ;) I will send you some more promenade shots, but it’s not like Montreux with its’ long wide stretch of gardened path very much removed from busy road. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...70794bfaa.jpeg Looks like a nice day https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...ec6a93174.jpeg Clear skies, yay! .................................................. .................................................. .......... re: envy, just remember where I come from, I need to catch up on ‘charming’ https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...19d2431b8.jpeg No charming facades here https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...589927cee.jpeg No green https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fod...b33f389a9.jpeg No lakes |
:wow:
Always shocked to see the "before" photos of your life, Adelaidean. I am so happy that you and your parents get to indulge in the green rolling hills and mountains that you love! Yes, I saw the photos on Facebook...but somehow lost a few days, I think. This is such a treasure trove of beauty. Wow, great apartment in Malcesine! I was in an apartment about 15 minutes' walk outside of town, right on the lake. No lake views from the apartment, but a gorgeous walk into town. s |
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