Sicily itinerary
 

My husband and I are going to be in Sicily for 10 nights in April. We are flying into Catania and flying out of Palermo. So far, our itinerary is as follows:

2 nights Catania with possible side trip to Mt. Etna
1 night Taormina
2 nights in Syracuse, side trip to Noto

Last 3 nights in Palermo, with side trips, but not yet sure where. I know some will say this is too much time in Palermo but we want to not change hotels almost every night.

We have two more nights to play with between Syracuse and Palermo and I'm feeling somewhat overwhelmed as there are so many places to see. We are interested in archaeological sites and ruins, and quaint medieval towns.

Any suggestions are welcome for both the two nights and for side trips from Palermo. We have a very early flight from Palermo to Rome so we really will only have 2 full days there. We are not against renting a car, but we will do it once there as we will probably take the train from Catania to Taormina, and then to Syracuse. Is it feasible to rent a car in Syracuse and drop it off in Palermo, without making the reservation in advance?

Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions. I already can tell this will not be our only trip to Sicily!

I would say that was too much time in Catania. And make sure that you stay in Ortygia, not in Siracusa itself.

I think that the mosaics at Villa Casales are a must see, but I love mosaics. Click on my name for my Sicily TR.

I see no reason for 3 hotels on the east side of the island. I would spend 2 nites in Taormina and 3 in Siracusa. Click on my name for my TR.

<< I know some will say this is too much time in Palermo >>

I don't think it's nearly enough time in Palermo, especially if you are doing day trips. Three nights = two days minus one day for a trip outside Palermo leaves only one day to explore the city.

You should see Agrigento.

Thanks for the replies.

So far, the only hotel that we cannot cancel is the Excelsior Grand in Catania, as we got a good price but it is non-refundable. And if we do a side trip from Catania, we won't have that much time there. I already changed my reservation from 4 nights in Palermo to three. If we spend 3 in Syracuse and 2 in Taormina, that is all 10 nights. I'm not sure I want to drive (or take a train) from Syracuse to Palermo. We would be missing a big part of the island.

thursdaysd, I love mosaics! When I lived in Italy way back in 1980 (never got to Sicily), one of my favorite places was Ravenna.

The hotel I booked in Syracuse (Cavalieri) is actually in Syracuse but it's a 10 minute walk to the sites in Ortygia. It's gotten great reviews and I'm pretty picky when it comes to hotels. The reservation can be changed or cancelled with no penalty if something better comes up.

Agrigento looks fascinating. I did some reading and it seems like a "don't miss" place. So we could spend one night there and possibly add a night onto Taormina? Or should we add another stop?

<< Is it feasible to rent a car in Syracuse and drop it off in Palermo, without making the reservation in advance? >>

<< I'm not sure I want to drive (or take a train) from Syracuse to Palermo >>

These two statements are contradictory. How are you getting to Palermo? Do you mean you want to take the bus?

If you don't reserve a car ahead then you will pay the going rate that day and there may not be any cars. You'll need to be flexible and have an alternate plan to get to Palermo and be willing to pay more money than you would have if you had shopped around and booked ahead.

adrienne, that's just it, we're not sure if we want to drive from Syracuse to Palermo or take the train (or bus). I was hoping we could make up our minds once there but maybe not.

Trains on Sicily are very slow. It will take you seven hours or so from Siracusa to Palermo, and you will miss all of the middle of the island, notably Villa Casale and Agrigento. i would add Enna, although I didn't make it there. I would look into the buses, with stops. I think someone here posted a link for bus timetables a while back, try a search.

Oh...you forgot the "if" in your statement so it sounded as though you didn't want to drive or to take the train.

I would rent a car and see something between the two cities. Follow thursdaysd's advice.

I'm now thinking I should perhaps rent a car from Syracuse to Palermo and ditch the car once we get to Palermo. I'll check into doing it from home if it will be a lot cheaper. I've heard a lot about the aggressive drivers in Sicily and I especially hate to be on winding roads that drop off with no guardrail. It's my phobia. DH will drive but I'll be slinked down in the seat with my foot on an imaginary brake saying SLOW DOWN SLOW DOWN! It won't matter that he may only be going 20 mph.

You live in NYC and are worried about aggressive drivers? Now I've heard it all! :)

our late lamented friend Z [remember her?] posted some film of driving in Palermo on a thread not so long ago - it actually didn't seem that bad to me!

i think that I'd want a hotel with secure parking though.

I really wouldn't bother with driving in Palermo - drop the car at the airport and take the bus into town. The public transport is good enough, and aside from Monreale much of what you want to see is walkable.

Oh, I have no plans on keeping the car in Palermo! adrienne, I don't drive in Manhattan, I take the subway!

I just booked a night at the Villa Athena in Agrigento. I could have paid less but I wanted it to be no penalty for cancellation in case we end up adding that night to Taormina. All the dates at hotels would have to move up by one night.

Okay, so I have one night left. Rather than adding on to Taormina and having to re-do all my hotels, I can add one more place. Suggestions?

What do you have now?

2 nights Catania with possible side trip to Mt. Etna
1 night Taormina
2 nights in Syracuse, side trip to Noto
1 night Agrigento
1 night..?
3 nights Palermo

I'm a bit worried about how long it will take to drive from Syracuse to Agrigento. Any ideas?

In Agrigento, visit the temple area at night. There's a long, winding road to get there (but no cliffs to fall off) and the views of the temples, left and right, all lit up, are fabulous. You can't go up to the temples after closing but the views approaching the area are so wonderful. Get some good "temple" music to play in the car to add to the atmosphere.

<< our late lamented friend Z >>

She didn't die, did she? I truly disliked her but I hope she's still alive and kicking but on another board.

<< I'm a bit worried about how long it will take to drive from Syracuse to Agrigento. Any ideas? <<

mappy.com and viamichelin.com are your friends for driving in Europe. I add 25% to suggested driving times. Mappy says 2.5 hours so I would definitely give it 3 hours.

She didn't die, did she? I truly disliked her but I hope she's still alive and kicking but on another board.>>

i was speaking in fodor terms - ie she's not here any more.

3 hours isn't bad. If we leave Syracuse by 8 or 9am, that should give us enough daylight to see the temples. I bought a Michelin map of Sicily, along with a Michelin guidebook and Frommer's guidebook. Time to get the may out!

That should be get the map out!

adrienne, that viamichelin.com is fabulous. Thanks so much!!

You'll want to see the mosaics on the way to Agrigento. You could do Taormina from Catania - the view and the theater are worth seeing but it's horrendously touristy. You could add the night to Siracusa, go up to Erice, visit Trapani....

There is just too much to see in one trip. I have to resign myself to the fact that we will miss a lot. I'm reading now about Erice and Trapani. I'm also considering Selinunte. All three would be on the way to the airport where we can dump the car and take the bus or train into Palermo. We leave 2 weeks from today. I can't believe I waited so long to do this. It's not like me at all to wait.

laurie - If you're considering Erice read the book Bitter Almonds. The woman that the book is about is still in the shop she created (I met her when I was there). Her story is amazing, especially for the times.

I think the view from the public gardens in Taormina is even better than from the theater.
View from the gardens:
http://modigliani.shutterfly.com/sicily2011/216

View from the theater:
http://modigliani.shutterfly.com/sicily2011/213

ann - thanks. Z will be back under a different name. She never goes away for long.

Wow, those are both great shots adrienne. Etna has been very active this month. Great videos of eruptions have been posted. I just hope no one is in danger. I don't have the best track record. When I was in Jogjakarta, Indonesia, there was a major earthquake that killed over 6000 people. We were in an elevator when it struck. I hope Etna behaves herself and just puts on a good show.

Can't rent a car from Syracuse. And can only rent one way from an airport. Looks like we have to go to the airport near Catania from Taormina and pick up the car there. May have to change the Hotel in Syracuse since they charge for parking. I need to find out how much.

You don't need or want a car in Siracusa. You can day trip to Noto by bus (see my TR). Where are you looking that you can't rent a car in Siracusa?

ann - thanks. Z will be back under a different name. She never goes away for long.>>

she did come back for a while under a different name, but the tone was unmistakable.

then that persona disappeared as well, as so far as I can tell, she's not returned. Perhaps she is imparting her unrivalled knowledge over on the "Dark Side" [aka Frommer's}.

Laurico - i think that there is a huge car park in Siracuse/Orteyga - where most people staying there park, called Talete. you could perhaps drop your things off and then park there?

thursdaysd, I was just looking on Expedia. I figured it would be the easiest way to see what is available and prices charged.

I'm doing some searches and it seems that you can rent a car in Syracuse, but not one way. At least I haven't found anything saying so.

Check AutoEurope and Economy Car Rental. I had booked a car through Economy as it was the best rate but I canceled it since I didn't need it. Both companies have a wonderful cancellation policy - cancel any time up to the rental day.

adrienne, thank you so so much. AutoEurope will allow a pick up in Siracusa (may as well start spelling it correctly) and drop off in either Palermo or at the airport. We'll probably choose the airport rather than try and figure out how to get to downtown Palermo. You have been such a big help. Everybody has given good advice. I feel so much better about this trip. This is our 25th anniversary trip so I want it to be special.

Happy Anniversary! I'm sure you'll have a great time. Hope Etna puts on a show for you!

One of my recommendations for Palermo is to see a puppet show. I know it sounds cheesy and I was doubtful but if you want to be a child again for a little while and have a great time then see one of the Sicilian puppet shows. You won't regret it!

For AutoEurope you need to pay ahead and get a voucher to guarantee the price.

I just reserved the car but didn't pay yet. DH will go over the details since he will be driving. I'll pay when I get the okay. I only have one night left to figure out!

The puppet show actually sounds like fun.

I am so honked as I just spent over 15 minutes writing you a great tip sheet for Sicily and lost the darn thing with me hitting the wrong button?
Anyway,Try and get in the Hotel Roma which is the direct center of town in Ortigia by the Duomo. If it is filled then the wonderful Hotel Gutowski is another choice but further away.The Cafe Minerva is right near it for great coffees/teas and sweets along with people watching.There is a terrific real Sicilian family restaurant called Yaz right across from Minerva that has wonderfully made homecook Sicilian meals.
Try to walk the Lungamare(seafront wall) where over 4000 ships are at the bottom of the harbor and also one of the puppet shows on the island for some fun.

May I suggest stopping at either Marsala or Trapani after Agrigento on your way up to Palermo? Marsala's town is on the water and gears to winemaking,etc.-lots of wonderful restaurants and shops. Trapani is home to the magnificent salt flats out in the water and is definitely worth a stopover to tour it-about an hour.

Palermo didn't do much for me as it reminded me of NYC but then I am from Chicago? I love the small and quaint Sicilian towns where people treat you with friendship and caring-have literally had people drop their groceries to walk us someplace OR call a cousin to open their restaurant earlier because our flight was leaving early in the morning.
The Sicilians are a family oriented and hospitable people-you will absolutely love your time there. Enjoy!

Hi laurieco
I have been planning my trip to Sicily as well and was wondering if you had considered going to Cefalu as a day trip from Palermo? Then maybe you might want to spend the extra night in Palermo and you would not have to move around as much. It is a hard decision but I think you are wise already to realize you have to go back to Sicily before you even get there.
I can't wait. You will have a blast and so will I.

> 2 nights Catania with possible side trip to Mt. Etna
1 night Taormina
2 nights in Syracuse, side trip to Noto
1 night Agrigento
1 night..?
3 nights Palermo

If I'm counting the DAYS right, you don't have a lot of time anywhere. But maybe I'm not following....

With only 10 nights, you'll need to be selective. The good news is that you'll see some amazing things no matter what you choose!

Lots of great advice here. I think we are going to spend the night before going to Palermo near Selinunte. I also considered staying 2 nights in Agrigento to have enough time there. I want to stop at Villa Romano Del Casale on our way from Siracusa to Agrigento, but I think with the later part of the afternoon and evening, and the following morning, it should be enough. We may stay a bit outside of Selinunte, in Menfi. It's very close to the ruins and will be something different and relaxing.

This will be a lot of moving around. We haven't done a trip like this in quite some time. We drove through Ireland for two weeks a long time ago and except for Dublin, never spent more than a night or two in one place. It was fun though, and surprisingly relaxing.

Well, the last of the hotels are now reserved. I decided to stay near Selinunte at the The B&B Villa Sogno. It looks really unique and delightful, is close to the ruins and only a little over an hour to Palermo Airport, so we could dump the car and get the bus or train to Palermo.

Thanks to everyone who gave advice. I appreciate all of it, even if I didn't follow it all. It helped me choose what to do and I am grateful for that. Maybe I'll even do a trip report. If you have any restaurant recommendations, please feel free to chime in!